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Thank you for your concern. Everything is okay, have some stuff I had to get taken care of with the house and family. I will be back to making some new videos soon. I apologize for the break, but unfortunately life sometimes gets in the way of hobbies. Thank you for your patience

@TheLastLayer111 great to hear that you're alive and well! Hope everything gets taken care of!

Glad it was helpful!

I use an 80 gallon for most clearcoat. But I also did a video on using a small portable compressor with a LVLP gun. And it worked fine if you take some time to learn the process.

Yes, it came from nikko industries

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. What slicer are you using? I use the anycubic slicer that came with the printer. I run factory settings, and really just change the temp on the filament section depending on what filament I use. If that doesn’t work, try resetting the slicer or reloading it. Let me know if that helps

if I'm doing a gloss finish I do sand, for flat finishes, I really only need to sand the bad spots. The good thing about the primer is that it levels great and sands very easily. It really minimizes the amount of time required for sanding.

@@TheLastLayer111oh you do sanding the model? I taught you didn’t, in this video and in the video where you brush on the primer on the iron man face plate, you didn’t sand and the props came out perfect..

Good to know, ill keep an eye out for that

Its the Michael Baddeley file, they are free on his Patreon page. There is a ton of support for R2D2 builds, including the Astromech forums and a whole TH-cam build series By John Salt th-cam.com/video/hkkSagTsLXY/w-d-xo.html. I highly recommend watching his whole series prior to starting a build. Its not an overly hard build, but it can be pricy, depending on how many options you want. Good Luck.. That's a fun build.

great to hear, Enjoy.

Thank you, i have had some stuff I had to take care of lately, but I got some new videos coming soon.

Not sure what you are referring to buying. But most of the stuff can be found on Amazon. Almost all the products are automotive painting products, and can be substituted with some equivalent products. Drop me an email (in my channel description) and I will do what I can to help you out.

@@TheLastLayer111 The ethalon primer...I see some on ebay, but I don't know if I can trust them.

@@drgta6 I never tried it, so I couldn't say for certain. But you can check reviews. Most of the automotive stuff is similar. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

Haha.. I should

Ill give it a try, thanks.

I do, i have a large fan, thats vents to the outside. Nothing special, just leave the outside door open and blow it out. I will typically open the doors and blow out the dust when im done. The main thing I do is a good cleaning between projects. Rain can be tough even in a garage. Humidity and temp changes curing speed. Just something to keep in mind when spraying.

@@TheLastLayer111 Makes sense.. Thanks for feedback.. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos. You have certainly shown me a much nicer way to put together some new props. I'm excited to try them out here soon.

Enjoy, reach out if you have any questions.

Yes, I use hair spray or adhesion promoter on all my beds, including on my bambu printer. For me its not worth the potential of losing a print 3/4 of the way through. A subscriber mentioned to me to try nano polymer adhesive. I did and it worked very well, better than hair spray. Its a little pricy, but you dont need much and can print multiple times without re-applying. I have not had any problems or had any bed adhesion issues since i tried it.

That I cannot say for certain. I have always used their reducer, because I have it and it lasts forever. I would suggest trying a small amount before mixing a full batch. One thing I have found with reducers and activators, is a lot of them work together, even though the manufacturer does not state it.

@@TheLastLayer111 Thanks for the info. The reason I ask is that I'm having a hard time finding the stuff you used in your video, and since the label says "acrylic thinner", I hoped that any acrylic thinner could be used. Again, I appreciate the info you're putting out there, I've not seen anyone in the 3D printing/model making space talk about these automotive products. I used it on a project just yesterday that is due Friday, and it does make a huge difference. Goes on nice and thick but still sands like a dream.

Absolutely, its an automotive clear, it buffs and polishes like a mirror. It also provides UV protection, so your helmet will stay black and not fade over time. Its good stuff. Follow the manufacturers cure time before buffing.

@@TheLastLayer111 Awesome thank you for the answer!

Lacquer thinner.

Excellent, thank you very much. I appreciate your suggestions for the two-part filler primer, working on a project for a client and decided to try that. This stuff seems to do a spectacular, and more importantly quick, job at filling layer lines! And I’ve only done the first coat so far…

Wow.. sorry to hear that. A few others reached out to me and said something similar. That tells me they may not have the best quality control. As for mine, I didnt do anything, no mods, no adjustments, I literally put it together and started printing. One thing I always do is add some type of adhesion promoter to the bed , typically hairspray or lately Ive been using Nano polymer. In my opinion, this gives you a little “wiggle” room on that first layer. Good luck, let me know how it turns out

I cant really say, because I dont have any experience with the Neptune. But I have seen some good reviews.

For what its worth, my experience with it has been very good. Enjoy

Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it. It was a fun build

I use several different spray guns. My go to for clear is a SATA 4000B RP, thats a pricy gun. So I tested the Drizzle D1, its very versatile with several tips and sprays very good for the money. I would say, (properly set up) both guns a capable of spraying better than me. Check out my video on using the Drizzle D1, i spray with a mini compressor in that video, but a larger compressor works even better. The gun set up is the same. Enjoy

Thank You very much

Thank you very much

Thank you

I like it, im going to start playing around. Thank you.

Thats a good idea for a helmet. Ill see if I can find the file. thanks

I did something similar on done vader eyes once. I used a hot rod red, and then tail light tint spray paint. I used some heavy coats of clear over it then wetsanded and polished until it looked rich. I feel like that could give a cool look to the stone.

Thats a cool idea, ill play around with it. thank you.

I just started posting some pictures on Instagram, same as my channel name. Thelastlayer111. Im going to play around with that stone, everyone has been giving me so many good ideas, This should be fun.

As always another great vid Ty! Qq...in upcoming videos can you share a few mins on your down draft table, how you use it and possibly any links to vids you referenced? Currently bought an air filtration system (with ionization)for the garage but the down draft table is my next project to minimize air bourne particles from spraying ..Ty again and always look forward to your next vid keep up the amazing work!

Awesome, Once you get used to them, you will love them. enjoy.

oh wow.. thank you very much for the suggestion, that's a great idea. I'm going to play around with it. I really like doing builds like this. I love trying out new ideas. Sounds like a great idea for a video in the future.

@@TheLastLayer111 The other thing you could do as well is make a mold of that gem with the 3d printer and use resin to fill it or high gloss vinyl to cover it to give it that shine your looking for, i think 3m makes a vinyl glue as well.

all good ideas, I'm going to need to think about this and play around with some ideas. Thanks

@@TheLastLayer111 i have a question, have you ever used graphite powder? Do we use prime paint first than color than the powder or can i just paint my object with whatever color i choose and use the powder? Pigment powder works the same right if we want different colored shines to our prints?

@@kewtd72 yes, the graphite powder is designed to go over a gloss black finish. You cannot clear over it. You need to finish like you are doing a glossy helmet, when the clear is completely set, you can then buff the graphite powder on.

I used Rustoleum chalked Farmhouse red. Its a flat paint so you will have to top coat it with a gloss clear. Enjoy.

@@TheLastLayer111 Awesome!! thanks.. I can't wait to try it all out.

Finishing video will be released this week

Its an automotive clear coat, it actually is kind of satin, about 10 to 15 percent sheen. One thing about automotive clear, it extremely durable and UV resistant, but the choices out side of gloss is a bit limited. I like do like the look of the eastwood clear, but you can definitely play with other brands.

@@TheLastLayer111 do you think a 1k duplicolor matte would work good for something like this?

Be careful with the duplicolor. It works good, but is not compatible with all paints. I used it in the past and it lifted my basecoat. By lifted, I mean the solvents in it actually acted somewhat like paint stripper and “wrinkled “ the base coat. Make sure you test it on all your base colors prior to using it on your main project.

@@TheLastLayer111 thank you for the input. Just getting into the hobby and I’m trying to get as much advice as possible.

@@TheLastLayer111 hey I have another question. Do I always have to clear coat something? If so how do I know which one to use

I actually have been using the drizzle wide open, the same way i use my other spray guns, this may be a bit too fast for some people, but im used to it. I think I actually sprayed this one with a different spray gun. But the drizzle sprays pretty much the same.

No, the only problem I ever had with the printer was a nozzle got plugged, and I had to change it. It was pretty worn out. But other than that, I have not had any other issues. I dont really push the machine though. Im going to do a few videos coming up on the slicer settings and how I set up my prints.

Thank you. Much more to come..

Thank you, appreciate the support.

For a large bed slinger, it was decent. Its never going to be as fast as a corexy machine. Im happy with it

@@TheLastLayer111 I have a Sovol sv03 that goes at 60 speed, I'm going to get this Kobra 2 Max, your video helped me, thank you very much.

Check your regulator, i keep mine pretty low, with that setup. The compressor will kick on, but it wont matter until the actual pressure on the regulator drops. Play with it, you can probably even spray a bit longer before the spray pattern starts degrading.

@@TheLastLayer111 Adjust the regulator on the compressor itself right? What value do you have yours set to?

I have the regulator on the compressor turned all the way up. In essence, you dont need the regulator on the compressor. Then adjust the regulator on the gun down. I keep mine at the bottom of the green area, that will minimize the air used. Doing those 2 things will help conserve air. Take small breaks while you are spraying, to let the compressor catch up, the clear has some flash time so small breaks (couple minutes)wont hurt. Please, let me know how that works.

@@TheLastLayer111 I did just that, just to clarify, my compressor is fully open, the guns regulator is just at the bottom of the green. Then I start spraying, the compressor kicks on around 8 seconds, but the psi doesn't drop 10 pounds until around 16 seconds, that's what we're looking for right? The compressor kicking on isn't necessarily the bad thing, it's when the gun starts falling off the regulator that you need to stop and take a break?

Exactly. dont worry about the compressor kicking on, If you listen close, My compressor was kicking on in the background and I continued spraying. The only thing that matters is what that regulator is at on the spray gun. You also don't have to wait for the compressor to fill completely back up and cycle off to continue spraying, take short breaks and make sure the regulator doesn't completely drop. you will get a feel for it. Enjoy.

Thats a good idea, i really need to do a few mods to the filament routing. Other than that I have had a very good experience with the printer. I just finished the hardest print I have ever tried (you can see it in the shorts) and the printer was able to get it done.

nice... after his mortal form was destroyed... You guys are good. complete build video coming soon.

It will be obvious once the supports come off and its glued together

you guys are good, complete build video coming soon