2008 Mustang Dash popping noise solved
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2016
- Video tutorial on how to get rid of popping noise in dash when key is cycled on an 2008 Ford Mustang this solution can also be used for similar models and years for the same problem please put any extra information in the comments and also please like comment and subscribe thanks for watching!
GET THE FORD PART HERE ( AMAZON)
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FORD PART # YH-1869
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Note: Gearmo Auto youtube channel or website is not responsible for any damage or harm caused to a vehicle or persons using the information provided on the channel or website, automotive vehicles and any other instructional videos listed here or the website are for educational or informative purposes only, this information should only be considered by professional automotive technicians or the like that can make decisions based off career based knowledge to either apply or deny this information which still is not the responsibility of the up loader in any case. Automotive vehicles should be repaired at proper professional and safe locations at all times. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
GET THE FORD PART HERE ( AMAZON)
amzn.to/3go6t9a
FORD PART # YH-1869
Save some money? Small donations help greatly
Paypal.me/GearmoAuto
VENMO- @Gearmo-Auto
CASH APP - $GearmoAuto
I would love to make more content with better quality to help everyone save money and time. Thank you!
Help Support the channel while helping kids learn
they're ABC'S Purchase This ABC Book HERE!
www.amazon.com/ABC-Vehicle-Book-Jessica-Cruse/dp/0692909737
BUISNESS / ADVERTISING
REACH OUT gearmoauto@gmail.com
Note: Gearmo Auto youtube channel or website is not responsible for any damage or harm caused to a vehicle or persons using the information provided on the channel or website, automotive vehicles and any other instructional videos listed here or the website are for educational or informative purposes only, this information should only be considered by professional automotive technicians or the like that can make decisions based off career based knowledge to either apply or deny this information which still is not the responsibility of the up loader in any case. Automotive vehicles should be repaired at proper professional and safe locations at all times.
Great video. A couple of additional tips. Pay attention to the position of the old actuator arm when you remove the defective unit, as well as the door guide location. You'll need to have your new unit and the door guide in the same locations to make it an easier install. Also, pay attention to the X cutout, next to your screw hole of your new unit, that is a guide for proper placement. Doing this, will make everything line up much better. You may need a long screwdriver to gently push the unit into place for proper screw alignment. Finally, lightly tape your screw onto your socket to keep it in place, preventing it from falling out of the socket. Painters tape will work best, as it is easier to pull out the socket, once complete. I found it easier to see in the deep cave under the dash once I pulled out the radio, controls and side panels. It's more work, but it made it much easier to see. Two hours, a few bad words and upside down, on my back, under the dash. Too much fun for a 64 year old man!!!
Man!!!, you just lower my stress level down 😂. I had no clue what that sound was. Just started happening a couple of days ago. Bro!!! Thank you for the video! 👍👍
Thanks so much for showing the part number.. After watching 20+ videos, FINALLY, you had the smarts to show the actual part number and box( which is confusing to an amateur like myself)
You rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After watching many videos on the subject yours is definitely the best. Thank you for no annoying music LOL
07 doing the same thing. Great video!!!!!
My 08 just started making that popping noise and this video is just what I needed. Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for this video! Super helpful! I was having a hard time trying to put the replacement back in, wasn’t really sure how it was supposed to go in since it’s really hard to see but I’m glad you mentioned how the part should fit together with the track inside. Hopefully I can finish installing tomorrow!
Great Vid man! I hate working like that and you did it with a cam. Props. Mine is doing that now and I knew it was with the heat/A/C door, but I wasn’t sure if I had to take the top dash off or not. This looks a lot better going in through the glove box. Thanks!
mine just started doing this today ! Thanks for thet video and the tip of putting the blend door to neutral !
Dude your videos are worth way more than their weight in gold !!! Your a godsend 🙏 please do more videos if you see fit thx for the all the specialty info
Thanks buddy I will go as long as I can
I noticed yours says 1869 but everyone is saying the one you're replacing is 1870?
Bro thx my 08 has been doing this for awhile now great video.
Thank you for this. My 07 is making the exact same noise.
Thank you so much you help me out The same problem 👍🏼
Thanks for the video!! Had to change both !!
Thanks again!!
Is it the same part for both?
Thank you for the video!
thanks, same problem
Hey this video was very helpful, thank you!!! But there’s a third actuator behind the dash on the left side, how do I get to that? Could you make a video of how to get to it?
Thanks for the video. I have the exact the same issue. Will it be a problem if I don't repair it immediately?
Thank you, i been trying to find out what it was makin the nose
Noise
Thank you
Found this video looking for something else. Ive been having this problem for a while
I wish I knew this when I had one.
Just got through doing this. That top one is not fun and it's even more
annoying to get the arm aligned. Use 5/16th, it fits on the bolt more snug than the 8mm and will keep you from possibly rounding it off in the small area you have to work with on the top one. Edit: should note i replaced the original 05 actuator on my 05 with 84k on it. after confirming the fix was proper i popped the old actuator open and sure enough, teeth were wore down.
my 11 is doing it too!
Do you recommend putting some type of grease on the arm or gears of the actuators? I’ve seen several videos without grease on them.
@ :36, Gearmo says, "Most likely it's going to be one of these two...". probably not. Be aware there is another vent\defrost assembly with plastic gears that break behind the instrument cluster. That gear-set was the broken assembly on my 08 Mustang.
Be very, VERY certain which of these gear-sets you have to replace before taking them out. They are a BITCH to get in & out from under the dash. I ended-up taking the seat out to be able to monkey-around into position and get to that gear-set. I pulled the wrong one and had to put it back in. It sucked to do. Check them first for clicking noise and/or pull the power-wire, then re-test for the clicking noise. If it disappears, you found the correct gear-set to replace.
Be aware, the one one behind the instrument cluster is also difficult. The hard plastic vent-tubing is in the way from getting to on of the screws.
I think I’m having the same problem on my 2010 mustang gt
I don't know how anyone could do this job just by removing the glove box. Save yourself a LOT of angst and remove the passenger airbag for better access. There's at least one video on TH-cam that shows how to remove the airbag, and it's really simple. Even after doing this, the upper actuator is a fairly difficult job. One problem is being sure the new actuator stays in the slotted vent arm while moving the module into final position. It took me several attempts to do that while also fitting the X-shaped opening of the module onto the molded mounting protrusion. Also, I wasn't able to start the upper screw during reassembly. A family member (youngster) with skinny arms and hands had to do it, working through the airbag cavity.
For reference, the driver side actuator behind the instrument cluster is the Main Panel-Floor actuator. The upper module on the passenger side (the bad one in this video) is the Main Defrost actuator. The lower module on the passenger side is the Temperature Blend actuator, and the horizontal module all the way on the right is the Air Inlet actuator.
In my 2008 V6 base, the part number stamped on the original 2007-dated Defrost actuator was 6R33-19E616-BA. The new MotorCraft part is 6R3Z19E616-B. The package also says YH-1870. This is the same module that's used on the driver side for Panel-Floor. I bought mine today from a Ford dealer because of all the bad reviews on aftermarket units. Cost was about $40. It's installed now, and the clicking is gone. I opened up the old module, and two teeth were broken off one of the gears.
One last thing, you can identify which module is clicking by placing your hand on it while someone else operates the ignition key and controls (to make it click). You don't need to remove the electrical plug as suggested in several videos.
Hope this helps!
Should be the same process for a 2012 mustang right? I have the same popping noises coming from mine. It does so for a few seconds then stops.
what is the part called so i can go buy & how much?
Mine was clicking but it just stopped by itself about a month ago, haven't noticed any difference in the vents.
so as it turns out, there are 3 of them, I disconnected one at a time, no changes, disconnected all of them, no changes, any other suggestions?
Let me ask you, mind does something like this when I drive 2008 4.0 V6 Mustang, it makes as well an odd grinding sound like plastic being crushed when I acceleration on lower RPMs and eventually disappears as I increase speed, and I hit a bump or take a swoovy turn I hear plastic dangling as if it's hanging somewhere touching against something. Please help car is never winter driven low miles 1 owner ... What could this weird situation be?
Mine is doing that in my 11 coyote do you think you can do it the same
Yeah for sure. My 2012 is doing the same. They are the same design for alot of stuff from 2005-14
My 08 GT does the noise only when it’s it’s on towards your face not floor or defrost! It does it for a minute or two then quits but it’s getting longer the noise but not sure I can do repair
Thanks for the video. My Mustang (2006) is having the same issue. I feel the clicking on the top actuator; however, when I disconnect the plug, it continues to make the clicking noise. In fact, I disconnected all three actuators and none of them stopped the clicking noise. But the only place I felt the clicking is from the top one so I'm planning to change it out. Thoughts on why the noise didn't stop when it should have and/or any other suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!
+lucho106
+lucho106 I don't know why it would still make noise when unplugged, maybe it's moved by something else on the other side. I would like to know how it turns out though so please comment back here and let me know. Thanks for the comment and good luck
Apparently there's a fourth actuator on the drivers side. The instrument cluster has to be removed to access it. That's what I was able to find online. It has to be that one because I doubt it would continue clicking with it being unplugged up.
Also, I think the YH 1870 fits as well. I have a 2008 GT and I took out the same one you did. But it's not the 1869, it's the 1870! Whats the difference?
Did you ever find out?
Did you notice if the top & bottom part was the same number?
I was told there's another to the far right where the bloeer fan is.
What do you mean when you put the blend door to “neutral?”
There are three knobs on the dash. From left to right: fan speed, temperature and mode (AC modes, heater modes, defrost, etc). I think he means either the second or third knob (maybe both) needs to be in the vertical position, meaning neutral for temperature, and off for mode. I suspect it's the right-hand knob he's talking about, because turning that to off always stops the actuator clicking, at least in my '05.
so what does this actuator do for air flow? everything still works even with it unhooked. do u have to replace it?
+DeathscytheZero i belive it directs the flow to either the top vents or the floor or the defrost
Gearmo Auto ok thanks. I didn't notice much difference this morning other than it took a min or 2 longer to warm up but wanted to make sure it be ok leaving it unhooked for right now till I replace it
My 08 mustang does not click but ac is stuck on defrost and does not blow through the front vents. Any thoughts on which actuator it might be?
I had this same problem. Your defroster actuator is stuck. It's the one he replaced in this video
Do you have an Instagram so I can give you a shoutout for completely saving me time and money?
I do not. I use to have twitter. But i dont use it. Thanks for the thought though, maybe thats something i should get to help my channel.
I have this on my 2007 mustang and I just noticed a check engine solid light on, would this trigger the check engine light?
No it shouldn't contribute to the check engine light being on. The check engine light only comes on when the car detects or suspects that the emissions that are coming out the tail pipe exceed the allowable limit. Ususally a engine problem or sensor or evap problem are the cause.
Maybe exhaust leak
Does the same part fit both the top and bottom one ?
Unfortunately no. They're slightly different. At least on mine it was.
I've had the popping noise for about 5 years or so and A/C still worked fine, just annoying. Now, as of this morning, my 2007 Mustang only has air flowing through the defrost vents. A/C and heat is still working, but only coming out of defrost. I still hear a clicking sound when key is in ignition. Would my issue still be the same actuator? It sounds like the clicking is coming from behind the steering wheel somewhere...
+Caroline Flarity Sounds like the door mode actuator is bad. Idk if yours is located near the steering wheel like u mentioned though.
Gearmo Auto Yesterday, I crawled down there and unplugged each of the three under the glove box and still the clicking continued. However, when I put my hand over the top one (defrost), I could feel some movement inside it. I’m wondering why it would still click if I unplugged it though. I’ve also seen there is another behind the drivers side that you have to take all the dash off to get to... hoping that isn’t my problem
+Caroline Flarity dang. ya idk. I think there was another comment that mentioned something about after being unplugged it still made noise too. I dont have any usefull info for you unfortunately. If u solve it tho please comment and let me know. I would love to know. Goodluck!
There are actually a total of 4 actuators. The 3 mentioned in this video and then one behind the steering wheel and in the dash. That one is a pain. If you unplug all 3 mentioned in this video and the problem still exists and sounds like its coming from the other side of the dash, its the 4th one. That one is an ordeal, but there are a few videos on here that can help.
FooDude2011 do you know the name of the video for the 4th actuator? I have an 07 mustang and i was told id have to take the dash off to get to it (the 4th actuator is my issue). I can do that myself instead of paying 500 for someone else to do that lol.
So, I replaced it and now I'm only getting defrost... I will get down there again and see what I did wrong.
Hi metalinkin82, I was wondering if you were ever able to figure out what went wrong with the replacement? I just replaced mine today and am having the same problem you had four months ago. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
what does the actuator do?
Jim L
Changes where the vents come out if its vent actuator or if its blend door actuator changes from hot to cold
i've been trying to install this peace for hours, and still no luck, i have the problem that i cannot align the arm with the track, is there a special position the arm is supposed to be??
+Mike Carreon the only thing I remember is that it was kind of awkward to put in. Make sure you have the same piece by matching it up to the old bad Part. I believe I was lying on my back upside down on the seat while putting this in.
Gearmo Auto finally got it today!! Thanks to this video!!
Thanks for the video! Unfortunately mine was also the one hardest to get to. Probably saved a hundred bucks in labor (or more...) and part cost @$45 at the Ford dealership. Persistence is the key to this tricky repair - I finally used 'the force'. It took about 20 minutes to get it out, and another two hours to get the new one in, aligned, and both screws in. My hand looks like Luke Skywalker's after Darth Vader whacked his off with a light sabre... (I plugged the new motor in and repositioned the lever by turning the key on. I did this multiple times until I had it in a good place to slide into the track). Best of luck to the next guy.
is it supposed to fix right flow right away?
+DeathscytheZero I dont understand can you elaborate a little more.
Gearmo Auto nm. I got it fixed
How much was your OE part from Ford?
I dont remember sorry. But u can google it and get a better priced one. Sites like Rock Auto. And. 1a auto parts are good sites.
My mustang makes a vibrating noise every couple seconds from the dash while it’s off and without the key. It’s never stops I’ve sat in the car for a while without the key and it still makes the noise right behind the radio. Any help?
If you have the original Shaker stereo system, it might be the CD changer. Mine would click and buzz whenever I put the key in the ignition, OR took it out of the ignition, and when I opened the door OR closed the door, whether the key was in it or not. There are articles on fixes for this, but I just pulled the radio fuse so as not to drain the battery, and I'll probably just replace the unit later.
I never looked up or even mentioned this problem that my car has. How the heck did this video pop up on my recommendations??
I don't know. Metadata I guess. Well I'm glad my videos are getting recommended though
@@GEARMOAUTO Also, thanks for making this vid, helped a lot when I fixed my car today
my 07 sonata does this
My arm came out bloody for the sharp metal bracket
PART NUMBER IS AR3Z19E616E
I was told take my whole dash out to fix
What is the name of the piece?
+Keira Marie door mode actuator.
Not gonna lie. That sounds like LMG fire
its your dash gremlins getting fired up!
Sounds like a m60 lol
Rubber gloves….must be a millennial.
Ok Boomer