+1000. IMHO the single biggest most noticeable difference between the JDM SiR I had and the Type R was the LSD in the latter. If I had a standard FWD Honda of that era and could only install one thing it would be an LSD. Actually I'd say that of any FWD of any era.
@@peopleschampgarage7869 I knew a guy who had a clutch type so I have. Great on track or going illegally hard on the road. Allegedly your honour...😁 but I found it harsh for everyday use. The OEM is more liveable with. Well my R's my daily so I'd have a different angle on things I suppose.
I used to run a 195whp B20 vtec Integra on circuits and it had the stock open diff, I got left coming out of the slower corners where I couldn’t keep momentum.
@@MrGrentch yeah same here.. had a kaaz 1.5 way diff in my Integra. Less than a week later I swapped it for an oem type r helical and never looked back. It was straight up annoying for street use...
Man, no matter how many times I've watched your videos, all your projects, quick builds and series, I am still amazed at the lineup of cars you guys have put together ( and a bit jealous I admit LOL) The effort and dedication you put on EVRY single one of them is why IMO you're the very best in this "segment"
watch out with those chassis there's a really high likeliness of the subframe tearing with the upgraded RSB. I remember they used to sell super thick subframe braces for that chassis
ASR is one of the major manufacturers that make a brace (and a bar that corresponds) but there are Asian suppliers that sell similar inexpensive braces now (and it's basically just a big slab of shaped metal).
I love the two very different strategies and that you will be sorting it out on track. I've missed your track segment like the one you guys did comparing the Type R & Veloster N.
Man, I need to copy and paste that shopping cart to mine (someday)! Great looking set up there and my first time seeing the Honed rear roll center correctors. Neat to see all the thoughtful, engineered mods going in versus solid heim joints everywhere and generic coilovers.
@@y.b.- Thank you! It's coming along (need to get back on it). More parts have arrived so I'm ready to tackle the interior and hopefully make a shaken attempt soon!
Dave, if I may be so familiar, 🙂personally I'd 100% have left the rear trailing arm bushing original Honda(new). They are the main(and patented) part of Honda's passive rear setup which was one of the things that made these chassis(and the EK9) so good for a FWD car and why they have this reputation down to today. They were _specifically_ designed to be more compliant to allow movement from front to back. It's meant to move that much back and forth, so under braking for corners etc toe in is increased according to load which increases stability. Putting harder bushings in there takes away from that well thought out setup and has a negative effect on the handling(poly bushes completely ruin it IMHO). I'd happily swap out all the rest for Hardrace stuff(nice quality) but would leave that one original Honda. Maybe the slightly stiffer Spoon replacements which were engineered to work with this system, but even those I find more "twitchy" than OEM.
I don't know much about suspension but I wonder what parts of the Type R suspension were different from a regular Integra. I wonder if some of these upgrades will hurt the suspension. That said, new is better than old and worn out.
Damper length seems to be a very contravercial topic, no one wants to talk about it as it would mean basically everyone with BC suspension, and other budget brands are setup totally wrong. Doing it properly changed my track car big time
DP *standing in front of the crustiest looking brake caliper I've ever seen* "We'll see what we can do about that valve cover to make it as pretty as the rest of the car" Surely a little elbow grease and some spare paint from around the shop won't blow the budget?
Speed Academy, imagine stripping the whole underside of a DC2-R, grinding it back to bare metal and then restoring it as well as all the suspension and brakes on axle stands. Yep that was me, and NEVER AGAIN 😡🤣🤣🤣 I'm absolutely loving these videos guys, they have fantastic content. Keep up the good work.
As a complete aside.... I always wondered why Honda went with the Civic EK9 Type R wheels for the North American market? They had 15 inch versions of the JDM 16's that they fitted everywhere else like Europe, Australia etc, but for some reason went the the EK9's for NA. I can understand the lack of Recaro etc as they were trying to get them under a certain pricepoint but the wheels seemed to be a styling choice for those markets. Focus groups or something? Then again what has also long fascinated me is how the different market versions differed in so many ways. The obvious are the JDM fronts which were only for them, but NA got no Recaros, IIRC they didn't get the Momo steering wheels or the titanium gear knob. They did get the centre console with the Alacantara lid and the rear seat base got a plastic divider. Oddly the JDM rear seat backs don't directly fit the EU or NA market cars. The Canadian market ones went weirder again with red seats in the back as well as the front. Europe got a rear foglight, the rest of the world didn't(I think). Europe also got a heavy wooden panel over the spare wheel, Japan got a very light, but very bendy plastic panel. I dunno about the NADM ones. The Swiss got 100 Yellow with a yellow Recaro interior special editions. Australia alone got gold brake calipers for no obvious reason. Some markets got a rear wiper, some didn't. Then there were all the various different rear light clusters. And Acura branding for the NADM. That's before we get to differences under the car like different sized catalytic converters, different manifolds(headers), compression ratios, valve covers, anti roll(sway) bars and so on. In Japan nearly everything was option delete. Never mind the four stud JDM only the OG 96 spec cars, or the JDM runout Type R-X with all the options ticked and retractable mirrors, 6 speaker stereo setup, keyless entry and a slightly different shade of faux carbon fibre interior bits(which ironically made it the heaviest R built). Kinda crazy for such a relatively small production car worldwide. No wonder Honda lost money on every car sold. 😄 That would never happen to nearly the same degree today.
+1 About the only one better is the original carbon Mugen seup. It gives a little more _provable_ power and makes a nice induction sound. The rest just add noise and heat soak.
@@dln.sweeney Very true Dylan. The Comptech were good. Sadly too many got the ally pipe with K&N filiter jammed on the end type, or the "whale penis" type, Both of which just added noise and heat soak. I remember on one of the Integra forums a guy who had made essentially the same kinda setup of the Mugen but using the OEM airbox and some plastic piping he got in the local hardware place. Worked great gave some extra power and looked 100% stock from above.
Definitely I love to see budget bills and not the unrealistic expectations of professional shops with tons of gear and personnel and sponsored parts and cut to and cut to a Martha Stewart style and it's done bake syste. Even if it's a $50000 budget keep it realistic and keep it grounded so at least we know if we had 50K where our expectations lie. If this was a $5800 budget billed or a is build or a $30000 budget build, Show us everything we can do realistically to make the most out of that budget and that's what would be what would be satisfying.
You guys were flying through those upgrades/fixes! I probably would've gotten like... one corner halfway off. xD I think this ITR is gonna be plenty quick.
Love to see the proper torquing under load for the suspension bushings.. Also nice to see some of the typical canadian car troubles like cutting the uca nut off the rear trailing arm etc... As a fellow canadian i was as scared as im sure you were with the big strong bar on the compensator arm bolt
Highly recommend a rear subframe brace. The subframes on these cars (more so the civics) are constructed of thin metal. I've seen swap bars tweak/bend the subframe, and some have ripped out completely during track use.
Could you perhaps tell me, where you bought the refurbed rack? I'm desperately looking for a replacment lhd itr rack. That would quite literally make my day!
These days the MG ZS is a compact SUV, lol, fun times (the same fate as the Mitsubishi Eclipse). Oh well. Those ZS 180s are cool cars -- they are extremely rare here in Australia! ☺ I hear the MG ZS 180 was the pick of the bunch compared to the MG ZR or MG ZT thanks to the double-wishbone suspension, better driving position & pedal layout (thanks Honda) etc? 😃
Run the DWS09 on my VW Tiguan - even though its an all season it significantly outclasses the suspension. It runs out of composure before the tire breaks a sweat. Love em'
When you guys race you should swap cars at some point to show who the better driver is. Whenever I see contests like this I always wonder if the cars are actually faster or if it's the driver.
The extended ball joints without the height adjustable tie rods and the rest of the kit is making your steering geometry worse than oem ball joints. Do the whole kit or don't do it at all
Awesome video guys! Full Hard Race suspension is perfect although you should try & use Blox Competition or Skunk2 Pro Front Camber arms. Their hex keys are facing down which makes it easier to adjust the front camber on the wheel alignment machine =D
You guys make quick work on swapping out all the suspension! those lifts are a game changer. I do miss seeing you guys struggle wrenching on the floor at your old shop! Speaking of old shop…what’s new with brother ken???
I've really been enjoying the civic and integra videos! Look forward to seeing the show down. A friend has almost finished B swapping his EF sedan, plus watching you guys have got me really intrigued on old Hondas! They look real joyous and fun 😎
Depends on the amount of rust, but old Civics/Integras/Preludes etc are pretty straight-forward cars for the most part! I'm not sure that older models like the first-gen City, AH Civic or CVCC have quite as much parts support though. 🤨 Whereas the EF, EG, EK stuff seems to be bread and butter for Honda tuners.
great choice on suspension components I run all of the hard race adj arms w/ hardened rubber catalog on my dc2 as well except w/ tein flex coilovers & ASR subframe brace / sway bar +wilwood dpha i didn't go with honed roll center as im not lowered much on a 16x8 +38 square set of advan rzii w/ 225/45 a0542 tires however i did go w/ honed's adjustable tie rod ends to correct any bump steer/toe curve w/ addition of swapping hardrace fuca for pci positive caster FUCA I'm sure you'll love the handling as mine has been the best handling Honda I've ever built those annex coilovers sound awesome similar to my dream coilovers by quantum except they go even further w/ custom valving & set bump stomp /body length in addition to spring rates
Loving the build. Can't wait to see the race. Quick question, Did you leave the calipers all rusty to motivate us to comment below asking you to wire brush and paint them? Lol
Sir, it is very possible to be able to make that b series engine make the amount of power that k20 makes. Aside from your amazing suspension upgrades, look into doing mild upgrades for example... Fuel, intake manifold, a better header(exhaust system) and make it tunable (hondata, aem etc.) theyre capable of 200whp easily
My buddy made 200 wheel with a GSR with tuner cams and mild bolt ons with 2.5 exhaust. Type r would make 215 with the same mods. That's fast enough run with some Ks because of the 4.7 itr trans. My buddies had a 4.7 itr trans. Ran good.
First Pete now Dave's turn with the mod sequence and music on back. Love the wrenching noisier too. Great editing guys. And awesome content as always. Keep it up guys.
Nice old school project. However if you live in this place called reality you need 15-25K CAD for a used Type R. Then you add their bill. Don't do e-ver-y-thing yourself? The final price is closer to 35K CAD. Cash only.
Yes had a jdm 98r with a 97r lsd trans in a 95 hb an loved it. Had blox cams and tb with the whole valve train also tein full coilovers. Only made 205hp on a s300. Loved that motor.. my next motor will be a h22a euroR or try a k24a2..good luck.
Indeed- young people hop up the motors, often with mixed results - especially with bolt-on turbos. However, mature people tend to work on the suspension, chassis and brakes!
That is fail. Why not c/o the calipers and get some drilled and slotted rotors while you're "in there". Sorry guys, this one is fail, I'm very disappointed. Terrible job.
I don't know. Even the crappiest Integra handles better than most cars. I would have put a cheap turbo and good tires instead. Like 1000$ ebay special or used good brand turbo and a good tune. I've owned 4 Integras and turboed 3 of them. All those mods are nice, but you're getting milliseconds out of them and not seconds.
Not on an ITR. Subframe braces exist for Civics and base Integras but the Type-R has beefier subframes from factory and a 21mm or 22mm bar stock depending on the region.
@@dln.sweeney gotcha. That’s true it’s a real Type R haha I had an itr rear sway bar on my Ek coupe years ago and remembering having to install that brace. Thanks for the info
So you do plan on refinishing the calipers right? I mean that rust just doesn't look right behind the Champ White wheels, especially when the body got so expertly refinished. At least after the challenge is finished it has to be done just to make the R look like all is well in the world.
K20 is so fun to drive b18 you will loose in every way even turns k20 is not that heavy you will see. Just make sure you guys both have drag radials no smaller than 225 if not the test has already been botched.
While you were there should have also changed the wheel bearings. 270k on the stock ones on a car that was tracked previously would mean they would be at end of life. That is unless previous owner had already swapped them.
Would have been interesting to see the old BJ at my old work. Used to work for the manufacturer of the BJ and sometimes they like to study old samples.
I'm pretty sure you don't use these types of services because of video time restraints. But I am curious what a local rebuild shop would change to refresh the original power steering rack.
Love watching you guys but damn sometimes when one of you is basically struggling with holding/working on something the other one just stands there filming lol.
At the least you could of sand down the caliper, clean the rust off the rotors, maybe spray paint them, you are adding nice new parts from sway bar....
Since pete's k series would need a tune to run correctly (even with a stock file uploaded) i think it would be fair to exclude the cost for both on tuning and management for both builds!
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
the audience wants the budget cap lifted 😂
#teamnocap
Hoping they'll revisit these cars later and go really stupid on them. The Integra at least, it deserves it.
@@dln.sweeney 💯
You can fund it 😬
@@BubbaGumpShrimpss Maybe if I had the luxury of sponsors hah
The LSD in the Integra will be the biggest difference maker on track, no question. Power’s useless if you can’t put it down. Loving this series!
+1000. IMHO the single biggest most noticeable difference between the JDM SiR I had and the Type R was the LSD in the latter. If I had a standard FWD Honda of that era and could only install one thing it would be an LSD. Actually I'd say that of any FWD of any era.
@@MrGrentch have you experienced a clutch type LSD like OSGiken? It's like opening cheat mode. Makes the OEM LSD feel like trash.
@@peopleschampgarage7869 I knew a guy who had a clutch type so I have. Great on track or going illegally hard on the road. Allegedly your honour...😁 but I found it harsh for everyday use. The OEM is more liveable with. Well my R's my daily so I'd have a different angle on things I suppose.
I used to run a 195whp B20 vtec Integra on circuits and it had the stock open diff, I got left coming out of the slower corners where I couldn’t keep momentum.
@@MrGrentch yeah same here.. had a kaaz 1.5 way diff in my Integra. Less than a week later I swapped it for an oem type r helical and never looked back. It was straight up annoying for street use...
Man, no matter how many times I've watched your videos, all your projects, quick builds and series, I am still amazed at the lineup of cars you guys have put together ( and a bit jealous I admit LOL)
The effort and dedication you put on EVRY single one of them is why IMO you're the very best in this "segment"
Both of the budgets are ballooning real fast boys
Rule of Pi haha
the way she goes
I did a full HARDRACE suspension on my ‘94 Integra GSR as well! Great suspension parts at a fair price! Love this build!
Everything looks fabulous but paint the dang calipers boys sheesh!
I totally agree. It couldn’t have taken that much time. Damn
watch out with those chassis there's a really high likeliness of the subframe tearing with the upgraded RSB. I remember they used to sell super thick subframe braces for that chassis
I went with a 22mm on my type s for fear of that
It's less of an issue if you're running a serious motorsports coilovers. The rsb has a lot less work to do.
ASR is one of the major manufacturers that make a brace (and a bar that corresponds) but there are Asian suppliers that sell similar inexpensive braces now (and it's basically just a big slab of shaped metal).
I love the two very different strategies and that you will be sorting it out on track. I've missed your track segment like the one you guys did comparing the Type R & Veloster N.
I have to say I really appreciate the pace at which this series is moving. I can’t wait to see the finished builds!👍🇨🇦
First thing I heard was "Welcome to the haunted build off..." I was like, "did I miss something?" Haha
That would be a good title if this was another BMW build.
That’s what I thought too 😂
Man, I need to copy and paste that shopping cart to mine (someday)! Great looking set up there and my first time seeing the Honed rear roll center correctors. Neat to see all the thoughtful, engineered mods going in versus solid heim joints everywhere and generic coilovers.
Your project is also doing great progress Steve, pretty sure you will end up with an amazing car to have some fun on circuit & street.
@@y.b.- Thank you! It's coming along (need to get back on it). More parts have arrived so I'm ready to tackle the interior and hopefully make a shaken attempt soon!
you got a type r too ?? i got a 01
@@Itr-tv7kt mine is a SIR-G. Not a Type R. I'm not that cool. Haha
@@BRICKHOUSESPL cool enough 😁
Dave, if I may be so familiar, 🙂personally I'd 100% have left the rear trailing arm bushing original Honda(new). They are the main(and patented) part of Honda's passive rear setup which was one of the things that made these chassis(and the EK9) so good for a FWD car and why they have this reputation down to today.
They were _specifically_ designed to be more compliant to allow movement from front to back. It's meant to move that much back and forth, so under braking for corners etc toe in is increased according to load which increases stability. Putting harder bushings in there takes away from that well thought out setup and has a negative effect on the handling(poly bushes completely ruin it IMHO).
I'd happily swap out all the rest for Hardrace stuff(nice quality) but would leave that one original Honda. Maybe the slightly stiffer Spoon replacements which were engineered to work with this system, but even those I find more "twitchy" than OEM.
I don't know much about suspension but I wonder what parts of the Type R suspension were different from a regular Integra. I wonder if some of these upgrades will hurt the suspension. That said, new is better than old and worn out.
Regardless it’s better than what was in there 🤷🏻♂️
@@GleepGlop2 There were quite a few differences. Thicker antiroll bars, heavier spring rates, different damper settings, stiffer bushings(some).
@@zeitgeist2720 Oh 100%, but for that particular bushing I'd go original Honda. Cheaper too.
Supposedly the replacement bushing that Honda sell now (52385-SR3-000 or 52385-S21-003) is a little bit stiffer than the original bushing. I dunno. 🤔
Damper length seems to be a very contravercial topic, no one wants to talk about it as it would mean basically everyone with BC suspension, and other budget brands are setup totally wrong.
Doing it properly changed my track car big time
Loved how many suspension goodies you put on the R! Talk about raiding the parts catalogue! This is going to be so sick when it’s done!🔥
DP *standing in front of the crustiest looking brake caliper I've ever seen* "We'll see what we can do about that valve cover to make it as pretty as the rest of the car"
Surely a little elbow grease and some spare paint from around the shop won't blow the budget?
Speed Academy, imagine stripping the whole underside of a DC2-R, grinding it back to bare metal and then restoring it as well as all the suspension and brakes on axle stands. Yep that was me, and NEVER AGAIN 😡🤣🤣🤣
I'm absolutely loving these videos guys, they have fantastic content. Keep up the good work.
As a complete aside.... I always wondered why Honda went with the Civic EK9 Type R wheels for the North American market? They had 15 inch versions of the JDM 16's that they fitted everywhere else like Europe, Australia etc, but for some reason went the the EK9's for NA. I can understand the lack of Recaro etc as they were trying to get them under a certain pricepoint but the wheels seemed to be a styling choice for those markets. Focus groups or something?
Then again what has also long fascinated me is how the different market versions differed in so many ways. The obvious are the JDM fronts which were only for them, but NA got no Recaros, IIRC they didn't get the Momo steering wheels or the titanium gear knob. They did get the centre console with the Alacantara lid and the rear seat base got a plastic divider. Oddly the JDM rear seat backs don't directly fit the EU or NA market cars. The Canadian market ones went weirder again with red seats in the back as well as the front. Europe got a rear foglight, the rest of the world didn't(I think). Europe also got a heavy wooden panel over the spare wheel, Japan got a very light, but very bendy plastic panel. I dunno about the NADM ones. The Swiss got 100 Yellow with a yellow Recaro interior special editions. Australia alone got gold brake calipers for no obvious reason. Some markets got a rear wiper, some didn't. Then there were all the various different rear light clusters. And Acura branding for the NADM. That's before we get to differences under the car like different sized catalytic converters, different manifolds(headers), compression ratios, valve covers, anti roll(sway) bars and so on. In Japan nearly everything was option delete. Never mind the four stud JDM only the OG 96 spec cars, or the JDM runout Type R-X with all the options ticked and retractable mirrors, 6 speaker stereo setup, keyless entry and a slightly different shade of faux carbon fibre interior bits(which ironically made it the heaviest R built). Kinda crazy for such a relatively small production car worldwide. No wonder Honda lost money on every car sold. 😄 That would never happen to nearly the same degree today.
Whoa, you know your stuff about ITRs! That was very interesting.
@@TassieLorenzo So yoou're basically calling me a nerdy weirdo about DC2 Type R's? 😄 Yeah, guilty as charged Tassie.
What ever you do KEEP the stock airbox!!!!!!!!! It works the best, just do a filter..
If they change the airbox they would need to go all in and make a hood scoop or something crazy like that
+1 About the only one better is the original carbon Mugen seup. It gives a little more _provable_ power and makes a nice induction sound. The rest just add noise and heat soak.
@@MrGrentch CT/Comptech Iceboxes are good if you can find one, but you can also modify the piping on the stock unit and ditch the resonator.
@@dln.sweeney Very true Dylan. The Comptech were good. Sadly too many got the ally pipe with K&N filiter jammed on the end type, or the "whale penis" type, Both of which just added noise and heat soak.
I remember on one of the Integra forums a guy who had made essentially the same kinda setup of the Mugen but using the OEM airbox and some plastic piping he got in the local hardware place. Worked great gave some extra power and looked 100% stock from above.
I love these builds! Especially a “budget” build.
Definitely I love to see budget bills and not the unrealistic expectations of professional shops with tons of gear and personnel and sponsored parts and cut to and cut to a Martha Stewart style and it's done bake syste.
Even if it's a $50000 budget keep it realistic and keep it grounded so at least we know if we had 50K where our expectations lie.
If this was a $5800 budget billed or a is build or a $30000 budget build, Show us everything we can do realistically to make the most out of that budget and that's what would be what would be satisfying.
Build your integras now! These things have hit an all time peak and are not coming down again…
The R rack has a tighter radius than the lesser models
Old auto cross trick to swap Type R racks into EG’s
You guys were flying through those upgrades/fixes! I probably would've gotten like... one corner halfway off. xD I think this ITR is gonna be plenty quick.
Love to see the proper torquing under load for the suspension bushings.. Also nice to see some of the typical canadian car troubles like cutting the uca nut off the rear trailing arm etc... As a fellow canadian i was as scared as im sure you were with the big strong bar on the compensator arm bolt
Highly recommend a rear subframe brace. The subframes on these cars (more so the civics) are constructed of thin metal.
I've seen swap bars tweak/bend the subframe, and some have ripped out completely during track use.
Could you perhaps tell me, where you bought the refurbed rack? I'm desperately looking for a replacment lhd itr rack. That would quite literally make my day!
That steering rack gurgle was excellent 👍
Great video. Brings back memory's of my old track MG ZS 180, which basicly was an integra with a v6.
These mods will help alot with laptimes.
These days the MG ZS is a compact SUV, lol, fun times (the same fate as the Mitsubishi Eclipse). Oh well. Those ZS 180s are cool cars -- they are extremely rare here in Australia! ☺
I hear the MG ZS 180 was the pick of the bunch compared to the MG ZR or MG ZT thanks to the double-wishbone suspension, better driving position & pedal layout (thanks Honda) etc? 😃
Run the DWS09 on my VW Tiguan - even though its an all season it significantly outclasses the suspension. It runs out of composure before the tire breaks a sweat. Love em'
When you guys race you should swap cars at some point to show who the better driver is. Whenever I see contests like this I always wonder if the cars are actually faster or if it's the driver.
Got some PIC suspension on my ITR. Those are like a huge step up from mine. Very nice suspension. Also of course I built my car 9- 10 years ago.
I’m kinda surprised you didn’t put new brake lines on with all of the suspension upgrades.
Matco makes a Honda specific ball joint tool for an air hammer, some of the best money I’ve ever spent as a Honda tech.
The ITR will always be the FWD king. No matter what.
You gotta refinish those brake rotors and calipers, they let down the look so hard! Paint and elbow grease are cheap!
The extended ball joints without the height adjustable tie rods and the rest of the kit is making your steering geometry worse than oem ball joints. Do the whole kit or don't do it at all
Man. You guys working through those steering racks sounded like an alien autopsy.
Sorry if I missed it. Are you guys not doing a brake kit on the integra because of budget?
Awesome video guys!
Full Hard Race suspension is perfect although you should try & use Blox Competition or Skunk2 Pro Front Camber arms. Their hex keys are facing down which makes it easier to adjust the front camber on the wheel alignment machine =D
Oh you better paint those calipers red or my OCD will not let me sleep well tonight 😅
You guys make quick work on swapping out all the suspension! those lifts are a game changer. I do miss seeing you guys struggle wrenching on the floor at your old shop! Speaking of old shop…what’s new with brother ken???
Great build series! I know how you old school Honda boys operate lol. Also, you guys really need to do a JDM Legends with an Altezza vs IS300.
What's up with that BMW E39 Wagon?
I've really been enjoying the civic and integra videos! Look forward to seeing the show down.
A friend has almost finished B swapping his EF sedan, plus watching you guys have got me really intrigued on old Hondas!
They look real joyous and fun 😎
Depends on the amount of rust, but old Civics/Integras/Preludes etc are pretty straight-forward cars for the most part!
I'm not sure that older models like the first-gen City, AH Civic or CVCC have quite as much parts support though. 🤨
Whereas the EF, EG, EK stuff seems to be bread and butter for Honda tuners.
great choice on suspension components I run all of the hard race adj arms w/ hardened rubber catalog on my dc2 as well except w/ tein flex coilovers & ASR subframe brace / sway bar +wilwood dpha i didn't go with honed roll center as im not lowered much on a 16x8 +38 square set of advan rzii w/ 225/45 a0542 tires however i did go w/ honed's adjustable tie rod ends to correct any bump steer/toe curve w/ addition of swapping hardrace fuca for pci positive caster FUCA I'm sure you'll love the handling as mine has been the best handling Honda I've ever built those annex coilovers sound awesome similar to my dream coilovers by quantum except they go even further w/ custom valving & set bump stomp /body length in addition to spring rates
I could have watched several more hours of this, informative and entertaining.
Loving the build. Can't wait to see the race. Quick question, Did you leave the calipers all rusty to motivate us to comment below asking you to wire brush and paint them? Lol
Wish I could find something nice in the GTA for $3500 lol
Sir, it is very possible to be able to make that b series engine make the amount of power that k20 makes. Aside from your amazing suspension upgrades, look into doing mild upgrades for example... Fuel, intake manifold, a better header(exhaust system) and make it tunable (hondata, aem etc.) theyre capable of 200whp easily
My buddy made 200 wheel with a GSR with tuner cams and mild bolt ons with 2.5 exhaust. Type r would make 215 with the same mods. That's fast enough run with some Ks because of the 4.7 itr trans. My buddies had a 4.7 itr trans. Ran good.
@@TheBb6prelude the k20z1 going into the other car is a 4.7 as well
Man when I’m done with my EG Si I’ll be around 10k into it talk about a money pit but it will be satisfying lol. I love the suspension parts.
First Pete now Dave's turn with the mod sequence and music on back. Love the wrenching noisier too. Great editing guys. And awesome content as always. Keep it up guys.
Proper down right parts great parts upgrade
I wish I never sold my type R. Oh man Loving these videos. Great job 👏
Living in the PNW, the DWS06's are phenomenal. I tried the DW's but with as much rain as we get, the DWS just outperforms.
Those little rotor retaining bolts honda love to use are the devil.......i NEVER reinstall them.
I love the way the video was shot and edited this time. Super pleasant to watch
$35000 budget builds 😂
Nice old school project. However if you live in this place called reality you need 15-25K CAD for a used Type R. Then you add their bill. Don't do e-ver-y-thing yourself? The final price is closer to 35K CAD. Cash only.
Loving this series so much!! The R will molest that Civic. DP being the best driver can give PT a few seconds 😋
But the brake calipers!! All that work, going to refinish the valve cover, but you left the brake calipers all crappy looking! Gaaaahhhh!! LOL!
Yes had a jdm 98r with a 97r lsd trans in a 95 hb an loved it. Had blox cams and tb with the whole valve train also tein full coilovers. Only made 205hp on a s300. Loved that motor.. my next motor will be a h22a euroR or try a k24a2..good luck.
Indeed- young people hop up the motors, often with mixed results - especially with bolt-on turbos. However, mature people tend to work on the suspension, chassis and brakes!
That is fail. Why not c/o the calipers and get some drilled and slotted rotors while you're "in there".
Sorry guys, this one is fail, I'm very disappointed. Terrible job.
$345 for an Integra rack? What...they're roughly $150 all day for a great oe style brand
I've got continental eco 6's on my g1 insight, with some 14x5.5 CE28NS and I'm getting 85mpg on average
I love what you're doing with the DC2! Can't wait to see you rip some tec on it! 😎😎
I don't know. Even the crappiest Integra handles better than most cars. I would have put a cheap turbo and good tires instead. Like 1000$ ebay special or used good brand turbo and a good tune. I've owned 4 Integras and turboed 3 of them. All those mods are nice, but you're getting milliseconds out of them and not seconds.
Love this build,why didn't you used all the honed suspension parts?They have some awesome upper control arms too.
And why 15" wheels and not 16"?
Wouldn’t you need to run a rear subframe brace like ASR for a sway bar that big ?
Not on an ITR. Subframe braces exist for Civics and base Integras but the Type-R has beefier subframes from factory and a 21mm or 22mm bar stock depending on the region.
@@dln.sweeney gotcha. That’s true it’s a real Type R haha I had an itr rear sway bar on my Ek coupe years ago and remembering having to install that brace. Thanks for the info
@@16ToyoSupra No problemo. I've still got a brace on my definitely-not-a-Type-R Integra too
What’s the ride height difference, front compare to back? Is the back higher, by how much? Thank you
Running full hardrace suspension and ktuned k2 coilovers on my 97 k24a integra!
I have a 2017 Nissan Versa SV and want to modify and add some booty to the car looks/performance but idk where to start I’m new
Jdm dc2 type r 100% has a different rack to a regular dc2. And the pinion is not able to be used in a regular dc2 rack. The tooth angle is different.
Using a ball joint press is a much more civilized 21st century process. Compared to hammering the car to death 😂
Ball joint press??? Supposed to just smack the knuckle with a hammer. Common.
Something about suspension upgrades makes me so happy! Looking forward to the first drive w/mods!
don't you need a brace in the rear to run a 24mm rear sway bar?
Not on a Type-R
Paint and body work shouldn't count towards the $15k. It has no affect on performance.
So you do plan on refinishing the calipers right? I mean that rust just doesn't look right behind the Champ White wheels, especially when the body got so expertly refinished. At least after the challenge is finished it has to be done just to make the R look like all is well in the world.
K20 is so fun to drive b18 you will loose in every way even turns k20 is not that heavy you will see. Just make sure you guys both have drag radials no smaller than 225 if not the test has already been botched.
While you were there should have also changed the wheel bearings. 270k on the stock ones on a car that was tracked previously would mean they would be at end of life. That is unless previous owner had already swapped them.
Would have been interesting to see the old BJ at my old work. Used to work for the manufacturer of the BJ and sometimes they like to study old samples.
A lot of budget whingers in the comment section. Do you guys know how much ITR's are going for these days?
@15:01 the shift linkage bushes are not installed correctly, you have them around backwards
I'm pretty sure you don't use these types of services because of video time restraints. But I am curious what a local rebuild shop would change to refresh the original power steering rack.
Love watching you guys but damn sometimes when one of you is basically struggling with holding/working on something the other one just stands there filming lol.
At the least you could of sand down the caliper, clean the rust off the rotors, maybe spray paint them, you are adding nice new parts from sway bar....
That suspension looks so over engineered. -coming from an bmw E36 owner
guys comon! a quick shot of spray paint on those calipers would have made all the difference!!
those calipers...media blast them at least...after everything else you've done!
this is the coilover & suspension geometry setup I want! I have full spherical PCI parts though.
Love it ! Only watched this 2x’s!!!! Thank you for this !
Since pete's k series would need a tune to run correctly (even with a stock file uploaded) i think it would be fair to exclude the cost for both on tuning and management for both builds!
Even if the steering ratio the same, the internal valve system in the Type R rack might be different. Who knows!
R34 just chilling like “fuck all these other cars” 🤣🤣🤣
Spare us the agony? That's kinda why we're watching the video lol
As always, Dave is doing it right
I wonder if we are going to see some heavy torch action for some seized bolts. Im predicting lower control arms to be frozen.
Why did you get blood drawn? Are you selling plasma for car parts‽
Where are you guys located. I have a build that I have never completed. I’d like for y’all to help me complete it.
It’s not bad but I installed an oem 95 gsr front and rear suspension on my ek hatch with zero rust. Must be an east coast car thing.
Man budget $20 for some spray paint for the calipers yeeeesh.