1JZ cooling system modifications, also work on a 2JZ
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มี.ค. 2021
- Welcome back to the 1JZ drift engine build series. Today we modify the cooling system lines on the block and eliminate the unnecessary heat soak from the throttle body, oil cooler and modify the heater core outlets.
Here are the parts used for the modifications:
www.summitracing.com/parts/RU...
www.summitracing.com/parts/FR...
www.cxracing.com/PLATE-1JZ-WA...
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Pretty cool! I noticed some of the coolant ports on the rear of my 1JZ are already blocked off like you suggest. Thanks for the upload! Cheers from Florida
Great video, full of excellent info
One minor detail however, the lines that go from the block to the oil cooler and from the head to the throttle body are the coolant supply lines, not the returns
Big help . Keep it up . Plz
I'm glad it helped. Got few more videos in the works with this 1j
Great video! Thank you so much. So I plan on running a heater core since I will drive my Rx7 in the cold… I plan on leaving the big metal wrap around pipe but welding everything off on it, so it will just be a feed to heater core, then it will go to the engine block. I can just plug the front throttle body off of the head correct? And then as far as the rear on the head, that is originally for the heater core return correct?
Is it not essential to keep the flow original to it’s design even when bypassing components? Meaning carrying the neck outlet over to the intake side even if just a line?
Great video I’m doing a 2jz swap in a s13. This might be a silly question but that -8 an fitting in the back when you say run it to the radiator where exactly am I running that too? I have a koyo rad
You will have to weld a bong on top the radiator close to where the upper rad hose goes or get your self a hose adopter that has an AN fitting bong on it. I have also welded on fittings on the upper water neck coming out of the engine.
How about swapping a 2jz head over the 1jz block?
What hose are you using with the heater core pipe? I dont really want to delete that i order the parts that you put on the description
You end up with AN fitting so you have to use AN line and hose end
If I’m going to run a heater core can I just block off the small hose that goes to the TB straight to the block
Yes, you can just block off the TB.
That adapter you used on the back of the head, what do you connect that too now?? Since you said your not using heater core anymore
Suspicious Garage makes an adapter piece for that now, and you run that line to your expansion tank or back to radiator since it's hot eater that needs to be cooled back down.
you wouldnt have a link to that would you?
@@LukePakula
@@Andrew-kt3lk DM me on Instagram @jdmbooger and I'll get you the link
Is the back plug on the head that is 8an necessary? Can it just be plugged off?
Unfortunately, it has to be routed out. If you plug it, then the hot water will be trapped in the back of the head and could cause serious damage to the back cylinders.
If I weld up the pipe and nipples (instead of tapping and replacing with a bung like you’ve done) what material should I be welding with? I assume stainless steel
I'm not very knowledgeable on welding materials. I did weld up the pipe on my 2jz the first time and it seemed fine. I used regular mig wire and it got some surface rust on it but that's about it.
what about the pipe provision on the exhaust side towards the transmission. on the block what is it meant for?
That's used for the heater core in the dash. 2 pipes go into it, 1 from the head and the other from the pipe on the exhaust side.
@@LukePakula I mean on the block. Engine block of the jzx100 there is a pipe backside of the turbo.
Not the metallic pipe that you welded shut below that one there is a pipe on the block
@@parklaneent4494 I think you're talking about the block drain pipe. It's about an inch long and faces downward? That's just there, you don't have to do anything with it.
Where did you connect that -8an to coming off the back of the cylinder head?
You will need to run it wither to a coolant expansion tank, or the radiator directly or weld a filling into your upper water neck.
Hi,may i know this a/n line is joint back to which part?
9:22
The line coming out of the head should be routed to the top of the radiator, where it will get cooled down or to an expansion tank.
Tapped my head to 3/8 pipe thread like you and it seems to fit kind of loose. Is that okay? I used pipe sealant but was still able to thread it in by hand. Hope it seals well… did you have any issues or experience this too?
it is possible to tap in too far since pipe thread tap gets larger by diameter the further you go. If that happens then the available thread on the fitting may be smaller then the one made. There maybe a fitting you can get with longer thread or you may have to go to the next size up on the NTP size fitting and just make sure you don't over tap it again.
If I wanna keep the heater core, all the pipe on the intake side is not needed, so I can cut and weld on the joint and eliminate all the pipe from behing the head and under the intake. Im I correct? Sorry for my bad english haha
Yes, you can still eliminate all the pipes under the intake and just shorten the pipe that runs from the thermostat and around the back of the engine just leaving the part goes to the heater core.
@@LukePakula so the pipe that runs from the thermostat is going to the heater core and the -8an coming off the back of the cylinder head is also going to the heater core right?
@@jonathandecarufel2862 yes, one of them is a feed to the heater core and the other is a return.
In the 2jz head, the pipe that comes up from the top to the heater core, can that be blocked or does it need to be rerouted to the hardline next to the block on the exhaust side
@@tumamaoite the pipe that comes out of the head definitly needs to be reruted back towards the radiator since that is hot coolant coming out of the engine. If you were to block it off, you'd experience overheating and possible air pockets.
Is safe to say if my car is a daily can I do this to my jz as well ?
If you're not running a heater core then this probably is the only way to route it.
what's the difference between vvti and non-vvti?
As far as the cooling system, everything should be the same
ur mom
Do you still keep your thermostat?
Yes, some people like to drill few holes in the thermostat to allow some flow during warm up. I personally just cut the nipple off the bleeder hole on thermostats and leave it like that. If you take your thermostat out, the flow of fluid will be too fast and it won't allow the radiator to properly heat soak.
@@LukePakula Makes sense thank you. Pretty sure mine is stuck closed since my top hose gets hot but bottom doesn’t really heat up. Heard people running the trd one too
@@LukePakula still having issues I sent you a dm on insta lol
I think you have the flow of the water wrong way. Coolant out from head to throttle body then joined with outlet from oil cooler. Left line of the oil cooler is incoming, right is out
It's possible but I actually blocked all those inlets and outlets. Only one that'd being rerouted is from back of the head which is an exit port.
What temperature should 1jz run?
With thermostat installed operating temp should be 185 F to 205 F. But that could vary based on your cooling system set up and the efficiency of the fans.
@@LukePakula I have a s13 with the best fan setup I can buy and my car stays @95c witb the fans blowing 100%. I can't get it below that so I'm currently trying to figure out where I can set it so my fans will not be on all the time.
@@minni1094 that's a little high if it's like that at idle. Not sure how far you got into diagnosing it but you might have air in the system causing the temp to be so high.
@@LukePakula hmm, I jacked the front end and let the car run for over 30 mins. 205 was driving. Thanks for replying
Is it perfectly fine to weld shut the nipple that routs the coolant to the cylinder head @3:30? Also i noticed you basically shut the block hole and the cylinder head hole? Will it still achieve the same cooling? I was told it wont heat as efficient as it being routed through all those holes but not sure how true that is
Yeah, that's a tiny outlet specifically made for the throttle body.
@@LukePakula what about the other hole you blocked off too? Wont that cause a cooling inefficiency? Or is it all mumbo jumbo
@@pourtierbeatz7804 they are all made for the accessory use. The only important one is in the back of the head. Since it's being the highest point of the cooling system, air can get trapped there so it needs to be circulated and not capped off.
@@LukePakula well then ima just go ahead and do the same then… appreciate your fast reply and awesome videos man!!! Very informative and good ass quality!
@@pourtierbeatz7804 thanks! I appreciate the feedback 🙏
I believe you have it wrong inlet to the oil cooler is from the block and out to the metal line to pump. What you did there is stop the coolant to oil cooler
It's possible, surely the oil cooler needs to get colder coolant then the rest, the throttle body on the other hand would need hotter coolant to warm up, and as for the cylinder head outlet- that's the hottest coolant coming out the engine that then goes to the heater-core to extract the heat and then back into the engine at the thermostat. But the main idea of this mod is to eliminate components from the cooling system that add extra heat soak.
@@LukePakula I'm about to dyno by motor want to change all water lines under the intake also want to upgrade the main fuel line what size should I go and should I delete the fuel damper?
@@MrRayden6 remove dampenwr and regulator and install aftermarket regulator to give your self more adjustment for tuning. -6 is minimum sizing I'd go with and -8 is highly recommended if you are planning to push real numbers like 600 plus and if you're planning to go E85 since that requires more fuel consumption.
@@LukePakula I'm stock internals EMU,550cc,HX35 82AR and trans looking @ 400Hp