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When I did the alternator coupling repair on my 98 I had to remove the camchain tensioner to get the cover over the alternator drive assembly off. And I seem to remember, when removing the camchain tensioner, the piston or whatever its called, was pushed out to the most extended position which I didn't notice until I had put everything back together because it generated a whining sound which indicated there was too much tension on the camchain. So I removed the tensioner and got the piston back to it's retracted position. I believe it had sort of a wedge that kept it extended unless released. I don't remember all the details about this since it was over 15 years ago so there might be some memory glitches. Anyways, If you remove the tensioner, take a look at it so you understand how it works before putting it back.
@@AdikxxThank you, just watched it and it brings back some memories, and it's a great video to go back to when I need to do the alternator coupling repair again ☺. Anyways, if the coupling fails again maybe I will convert it back to the old style if I can find the parts needed.
If you ever have to do the alternator coupling again just cut an old or spare Allen key Down a little and it will fit into that Allen bolt at back so no need to remove cam chain tensioner . 👍
@@DylanGSXR Oh thank you! Honestly I don't remember if it was a clearance issue between the tool and the tensioner or if I couldn’t get the cover off without removing the tensioner, but since I assume you had to do this repair or had the cover off by another reason I take your word for it. I guess time will tell because I don't think I will sell this bike anytime soon. I'm at about the same milage now on the new coupling as when the first one failed so any day now I guess 😊 unless they made some changes to the coupling to make it last a bit longer. I remember the part number had a new version when I ordered it. It could have been 2274046E01 or 2274046E02, E02 being the latest I assume but I can't remember if I got the E01 or E02.
Watching and learning thank u👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Fantastic video as usual pal. Id say I'll be doing this next year as I was a bit tight on the intake last time I checked after the gsxr cam swap . You make it look so easy 😁😉
Hi there. I couldnt help but notice when tightening the valve cover bolts at 38:48 you may have missed the intake side bolt at cylinder 3 and double checked the exhaust side bolt . Not too sure, but could be worth checking?
Hey adikxx83, great video once again. Checking this myself, i do have some questions, mostly just to be sure: @32:35 you are repositioning the camshaft, and right after it you helpfully warn us to put these back exactly the way it came out. Later on you check for it via the 360 degrees turn and arrow. But it would of course be very helpful if i got them installed correct right away. Question 1: How can you be most certain of this, regardless of checking it later. So right after re-inserting the camshafts, would it be best to first check both of them on the right hand side of the bike, like in the picture you used @35:30, if the square nodges (indicated by the direction of the yellow arrows) are in exactly these 270 degree (inlet cam) and 45 degree (exhaust cam) position? So that if they are, i would know that they are probably placed correctly by hand, and you can progress with the real testing? Question 2: At the "real" timing test, while turning the camshaft 360 degrees clockwise away from the starting T, when you actually do feel quite a lot of resistance at some point probably it's still gone wrong. In this case, would it be best to just turn the camshaft anti-clockwise back to the starting T position, and by hand re-adjust the camshaft position like in question 1, and after that test again? Question 3: After turning 360 degrees, are these the final things to check for if the timing is correct? 1) For right positioned exhaust cam, number 1 flush with cilinder head to the front, number 2 straight up, and/or nodge seen from right hand side bike @225 degrees. (picture @36:25) 2) For right positioned inlet cam, number 3 straight up, and/or nodge right hand side @90 degrees. 3) Lastly checking the 13 pins between number 2 and 3. Lots of double checking, but that's just me, thank you for these wonderful tech guides on the RF900!! Safe rides
Hi buddy, good questions showing that you thought about the process and you understand it. So for the 1st question - Yes it would be best to get the cams in the correct position 1st time and most of the time that's how it actually pans out. However because of the way this bike's frame is shaped the side view of cams isn't that good and it's somewhat awkward to see if the cams are really 100% in the right spot. I remember when i did my 1st ever valves adjustment i actually messed it up. I put the cams in trying to be exact and adjusted the marks . Then bolted on the cam holders and tensioner . During the test (turning the crank) after about half a turn engine stopped me.. I could not believe it cause when i looked at the marks on cams it looked like it's all correct. I dismantled everything back and after another very meticulous inspection i figured that maybe one cam was slightly off (1 tooth forward). I readjusted it and bolted everything back on to again do the rotation test. It turned all the way around nicely(in fact i did more than 1 turn, went 720 dergees just to be 100% sure) So the conclusion is that misadjusted cam by even 1 tooth could throw everything off enough to cause the piston to touch the valve. Remember the clearance in that area is a matter of mm. So basically if the frame was of cradle type like in Bandits then you would have a perfect side view of cam marks but in RF's case it's a very awkward angle so it seems like you have the marks perfect but they actually could be a tad off. To sum up gotta really pay attention to how the lobes and marks were before and try to reinstall the cams to the same position . I managed that during the second valve adjustment job on RF when filming it for YT. 2nd question - They say you should not turn the crank counter-clockwise but that's how i did that when i messed up doing the job first time. I did it slowly and gently without any bad outcome from it so i bet it'll be fine. All i needed was about half a turn(at slow pace). Allegedly crank should be only turned one way cause that way you keep constant tension on the chain not having to worry about the slack. You might notice when turning the crank back and forth by just a little there could be a very minimal slack detected. Depending on how worn the chain and tensioner is this would probably vary. When it comes to little arrow which should be flush with the cylinder head. Obviously you want all the marks on all three check points (sprockets, cams and rotor from signal generator) to be positioned perfectly in line with what service manual shows(and most probably that's how it'll work for you 1st time) If you did your best installing cams and sprocket arrow is a tad low or high in relation to the head's surface it probably means everything else is in line with it you've just got the crank a tad advanced or retarded accordingly. I doubt you'd be able to turn the engine if any marks on any of the components were off so turning test is absolutely necessary. Two additional remarks. A) Correct removal and installation of cam chain tensioner. I made a vid showing that recently. Good idea to watch as i cut corners in that department in valve adjustment video. I personally don't think you will harm anything doing it the quicker way(as long you're careful) but if you want to go by the book and be 100% safe do it the long-winded way(it's still easy) B) Be sure of the integrity of your torque wrench. Those cam holder bolts need only 10Nm and the head is made of aluminium. If your wrench is dodgy you'll strip the thread in the head and that's a bad day. Removal and re-install of those thin bolts must be done in a correct sequence and gradually(keep going from bolt to bolt by little) I think i mentioned that in the video. Hope it helps Regards Adrian
i currently have the stock rotor as i will be testing running of the bike on gsxr 1100 ECU, depending on how it runs i will decide if advancer goes back or not
Even a dummy like me gets everything what the man is saying and doing brilliant video thank u👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have a 1993 GSXR 600 with the same engine, this video is the best one I have found. Very detailed thank you!!
Thanks💥
I love nosing watching the gentleman doing stuff on his engine brilliant video thank you 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I have this bike that makes a knocking noise intermittently, in your experience what can be the likely cause of this?
It could be so many things.. Clutch basket, cam chain/tensioner, worn camshaft, valves, worn valve spring or other stuff.
I love All of your Videos about the RF 900 thank you so much for sharing with us
@@FatihSeydioglu pleasure to read your comment. Thanks !
Thanks for all your great videos they have been very helpful. Thanks, a Scottish rf 900 owner👍
great video friend, it has helped me a lot with my RF900 here in Brazil.
Hero of the day!!!
The video is very helpful. I wonder if the engine structure is similar to the 96 GSX-R1100w.
Yes, RF900 engine is based on GSXR 1100W. They share many parts and maintenance procedures are the same.
Thanks for your video. Great explanation! Please tell me if it works exactly the same way in rf600r?
Yes,it's the same.
@Adikxx Perfect! Thanks for answer. I wish you all the best!
Jak zwykle świetny materiał 👍.
When I did the alternator coupling repair on my 98 I had to remove the camchain tensioner to get the cover over the alternator drive assembly off. And I seem to remember, when removing the camchain tensioner, the piston or whatever its called, was pushed out to the most extended position which I didn't notice until I had put everything back together because it generated a whining sound which indicated there was too much tension on the camchain. So I removed the tensioner and got the piston back to it's retracted position. I believe it had sort of a wedge that kept it extended unless released. I don't remember all the details about this since it was over 15 years ago so there might be some memory glitches. Anyways, If you remove the tensioner, take a look at it so you understand how it works before putting it back.
Thanks
Uploaded tensioner relating video, especially for you :)
@@AdikxxThank you, just watched it and it brings back some memories, and it's a great video to go back to when I need to do the alternator coupling repair again ☺. Anyways, if the coupling fails again maybe I will convert it back to the old style if I can find the parts needed.
If you ever have to do the alternator coupling again just cut an old or spare Allen key Down a little and it will fit into that Allen bolt at back so no need to remove cam chain tensioner . 👍
@@DylanGSXR Oh thank you! Honestly I don't remember if it was a clearance issue between the tool and the tensioner or if I couldn’t get the cover off without removing the tensioner, but since I assume you had to do this repair or had the cover off by another reason I take your word for it. I guess time will tell because I don't think I will sell this bike anytime soon. I'm at about the same milage now on the new coupling as when the first one failed so any day now I guess 😊 unless they made some changes to the coupling to make it last a bit longer. I remember the part number had a new version when I ordered it. It could have been 2274046E01 or 2274046E02, E02 being the latest I assume but I can't remember if I got the E01 or E02.
Watching and learning thank u👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Fantastic video as usual pal. Id say I'll be doing this next year as I was a bit tight on the intake last time I checked after the gsxr cam swap . You make it look so easy 😁😉
You'll smash it with ease. It's just a time consuming task.
Brilliant man 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hi there. I couldnt help but notice when tightening the valve cover bolts at 38:48 you may have missed the intake side bolt at cylinder 3 and double checked the exhaust side bolt . Not too sure, but could be worth checking?
Fantastic content by the way thanks heaps for your vids.
Good job.
Hey adikxx83, great video once again. Checking this myself, i do have some questions, mostly just to be sure: @32:35 you are repositioning the camshaft, and right after it you helpfully warn us to put these back exactly the way it came out. Later on you check for it via the 360 degrees turn and arrow. But it would of course be very helpful if i got them installed correct right away.
Question 1: How can you be most certain of this, regardless of checking it later. So right after re-inserting the camshafts, would it be best to first check both of them on the right hand side of the bike, like in the picture you used @35:30, if the square nodges (indicated by the direction of the yellow arrows) are in exactly these 270 degree (inlet cam) and 45 degree (exhaust cam) position? So that if they are, i would know that they are probably placed correctly by hand, and you can progress with the real testing?
Question 2: At the "real" timing test, while turning the camshaft 360 degrees clockwise away from the starting T, when you actually do feel quite a lot of resistance at some point probably it's still gone wrong. In this case, would it be best to just turn the camshaft anti-clockwise back to the starting T position, and by hand re-adjust the camshaft position like in question 1, and after that test again?
Question 3: After turning 360 degrees, are these the final things to check for if the timing is correct?
1) For right positioned exhaust cam, number 1 flush with cilinder head to the front, number 2 straight up, and/or nodge seen from right hand side bike @225 degrees. (picture @36:25)
2) For right positioned inlet cam, number 3 straight up, and/or nodge right hand side @90 degrees.
3) Lastly checking the 13 pins between number 2 and 3.
Lots of double checking, but that's just me, thank you for these wonderful tech guides on the RF900!!
Safe rides
Hi buddy, good questions showing that you thought about the process and you understand it.
So for the 1st question - Yes it would be best to get the cams in the correct position 1st time and most of the time that's how it actually pans out. However because of the way this bike's frame is shaped the side view of cams isn't that good and it's somewhat awkward to see if the cams are really 100% in the right spot. I remember when i did my 1st ever valves adjustment i actually messed it up. I put the cams in trying to be exact and adjusted the marks . Then bolted on the cam holders and tensioner . During the test (turning the crank) after about half a turn engine stopped me.. I could not believe it cause when i looked at the marks on cams it looked like it's all correct. I dismantled everything back and after another very meticulous inspection i figured that maybe one cam was slightly off (1 tooth forward). I readjusted it and bolted everything back on to again do the rotation test. It turned all the way around nicely(in fact i did more than 1 turn, went 720 dergees just to be 100% sure)
So the conclusion is that misadjusted cam by even 1 tooth could throw everything off enough to cause the piston to touch the valve. Remember the clearance in that area is a matter of mm.
So basically if the frame was of cradle type like in Bandits then you would have a perfect side view of cam marks but in RF's case it's a very awkward angle so it seems like you have the marks perfect but they actually could be a tad off. To sum up gotta really pay attention to how the lobes and marks were before and try to reinstall the cams to the same position . I managed that during the second valve adjustment job on RF when filming it for YT.
2nd question - They say you should not turn the crank counter-clockwise but that's how i did that when i messed up doing the job first time. I did it slowly and gently without any bad outcome from it so i bet it'll be fine. All i needed was about half a turn(at slow pace). Allegedly crank should be only turned one way cause that way you keep constant tension on the chain not having to worry about the slack. You might notice when turning the crank back and forth by just a little there could be a very minimal slack detected. Depending on how worn the chain and tensioner is this would probably vary.
When it comes to little arrow which should be flush with the cylinder head. Obviously you want all the marks on all three check points (sprockets, cams and rotor from signal generator) to be positioned perfectly in line with what service manual shows(and most probably that's how it'll work for you 1st time)
If you did your best installing cams and sprocket arrow is a tad low or high in relation to the head's surface it probably means everything else is in line with it you've just got the crank a tad advanced or retarded accordingly.
I doubt you'd be able to turn the engine if any marks on any of the components were off so turning test is absolutely necessary.
Two additional remarks.
A) Correct removal and installation of cam chain tensioner. I made a vid showing that recently. Good idea to watch as i cut corners in that department in valve adjustment video. I personally don't think you will harm anything doing it the quicker way(as long you're careful) but if you want to go by the book and be 100% safe do it the long-winded way(it's still easy)
B) Be sure of the integrity of your torque wrench. Those cam holder bolts need only 10Nm and the head is made of aluminium. If your wrench is dodgy you'll strip the thread in the head and that's a bad day. Removal and re-install of those thin bolts must be done in a correct sequence and gradually(keep going from bolt to bolt by little) I think i mentioned that in the video.
Hope it helps
Regards
Adrian
Did you remove the aftermarket ignition advancer? I just bought one for mine, should be getting it by week's end.
i currently have the stock rotor as i will be testing running of the bike on gsxr 1100 ECU, depending on how it runs i will decide if advancer goes back or not
@@Adikxx Cool. Thanks for all the great videos, they're inspirational to say the least. Much appreciated.
Do you still have your gsxr750 cams installed?
Yes
👍👍👍
Hello. Please tell me what material the sleeves are made of in RF 900?
i think it's tensile iron but not sure
@@Adikxx senk you
Yay california owner 😭🤗
Even a dummy like me gets everything what the man is saying and doing brilliant video thank u👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍