5.13 / 8a Without Training?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Huge thanks @LatticeTraining for showing how weak I am! It was very interesting to see how much weaker I'm compared to other people climbing the same grades. Confirms my previous feeling about this. But also shows that climbing is not only about how Strong you are.
And the best part the love for climbing is not linked to how hard we climb!
However if you have love for training or want to get one, or curious about the tests I've done check out - latticetrainin...
Extra love for @mammut and everyone else who supports me to create these videos.
You can do so by visiting my website: hardiseasy.com
That makes a big difference and is the main reason that allows me do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
♫ Music for my videos comes from
www.epidemicso...
#sportclimbing #leadclimbing #climbing
Something about watching a non pro climber train to strive for a goal is freaking awesome! I’m going straight to training after this, thanks for the motivation.You got this my dude!! Let’s goooo!!
Ah no way I motivated a training monster to train more :D dope :D
I started climbing 3 months ago indoors at age 30! I love it! Never too late to do something you love!
I started climbing regularly at 48.
Me to! Last week I also went to a crag for the first time
I started 8 months ago at (almost) 30 and climbed my first 6c yesterday. We are still very young, it's never too late!
I started at 33, have fun!
Looks like there's a bunch of us... started 10 months ago at 37... working my way up to sending a 5.11b
Good one Ben! Super cool to see how you could still climb impressive grades with this "out of shape" state. Btw, not that I want to remove the hippie vibes from the route name, but "Libertad de expresión" translates better to something like "Freedom of speech". Keep it up!
While the speech word is bound to talking/making sounds, expresión is closer to the word expression, which is much more ample and works for any sort of manifestation, not just speech.
@Iacami Gevaerd In the context of U.S. law, freedom of speech also refers to any type of expression. If I'm not mistaken libertad de expresión is the same way to say that specific legal phrase in Spanish, but I could be wrong as I'm pretty rusty.
@@WillStrong7 You are right! (Im Spanish)
@@WillStrong7 got it, so Joaquin is on spot with his comment ;)
are y'all sure it doesn't mean freedom to power scream?
I already feel stronger because I watch you train.
Yea I was watching my self sooo much... now I'm ready to crush hard
You got some good chips going for you.
You are incredible. I appreciate everything you do my friend.
Started climbing last year at 27! This makes me feel better about not starting when I was a kid or teenager
I started climbing at 28, also made me feel better!
Cracking video - you almost convinced me to install the hangboard I bought 2 years ago and show it some love! Can't wait for the second half.
almost. and same :)
Thank you so much for doing this! As a 35 year old getting back into climbing it was so refreshing to see an "honest" account of someone my age getting into climbing training. You're doing such an excellent job with this channel! Cheers
Amazing video, very inspiring! Thx for sharing this great 7c -> 8a journey 💚 Looking forward to see next episode!
Oh man! Big inspiration to me, I’m climbing for 15 years. I reached my plateau at the age of 27 at the grade of 7c+. I always told myself I will climb 8a before the age of 30. I’m now 32, still no 8a. Well, despite of still having lots of fun, I want to start training. Im making a plan and follow your video’s, looking forward to it! Most important is to stay injury free.
It's so nice to get to watch ordinary-ish people train and project on things that are actually doable for more people! Instead of insane climbers, doing shit like 8c+ and 9's, here's a dude who's just climbed a lot, trying to make a bigger push!
[Edit] I totally relate to the "weak for your grade" thing xD
I'm not sure I'd call him ordinary, he's incredibly skinny. I'm not sure how much he would weigh but I'd guess not much more than 60kgs. That's a huge advantage and I imagine that's why he can climb 7c with a lot of climbing and not much effort. Stick figures like Hard is Easy plateau at higher grades, I'm sure if he put in some effort he could climb a lot harder.
I love this channel, thanks for all of the awesome content. I've recently switched from the "just climb more" approach to structured training and seeing your frustration and resolve is very affirming. Keep making great videos!
Yea you gonna love this series then ;) And thanks for nice comment ;)
Very nice! For me the roof was 6c+, after that I've been doing more structured training for about a year now and am currently at 7b.
You learn to enjoy training as well :) and the gains help a bunch. Make sure you pair with with good sleep and good nutrition to make the most of what training provides!
Thanks for the video!
33, started climbing 17 months ago. Recently did my first two 7bs (sport) outside. Never did any training and boulder maybe once or twice a month. I just climbed 2x then later 3x per week in the gym and went on some outside trips once in a while. My partners all tell me I'm a freak.
so far it was 5 simple rules:
1. don't do stupid shit and injure yourself
2. falling is normal, get used to it
3. climb the style you hate
4. always try things that are too hard until you are strong enough to do them (I could climb 6cs and would pull into 7as every time I went climbing after warming up. Would only try 6cs after I was too tired to pull into the 7a and try sections)
5. have fun
Interested to see the next videos and get some perspective.
you are totally wrong!
1. Have fun
....
Hehe joke! well done!
@@HardIsEasy the ordering wasn't meant as how important things were, having fun is obviously number 1 in that case. Also ty for the belaying series, I made some of my partners watch that for reasons I will not disclose further.
Hey, could you please elaborate on n.4 climb the style you hate?
What does it mean exactley? I can't grasp it!
@@banryu79 If you like climbing in overhang, do more slaps or the other way around as an example. Most people have a preferred style for the routes they climb but that leaves you less well rounded.
@@Belavaere Ah, yes, understood, thank you! (Overhangs are my bane in outdoor, instead I like them in the gym. I like slabs very much outdoor, not so much in the gym. Yes, I'm a bit strange)
Have been waiting for so long to have a video like this from you Ben. Reaally looking forward for the next episode! Good job!
Cheers Adrian! was indeed fun for my self to make it... have multiple of em coming :)
Good job being the posterboy for technique and mindset being at least as important as strength! As someone who also started at 27 and who isn't a big believer in painful training, very inspiring!
I would definitely check the 3rd episode of this series! In the video, the route he's working on gets sent by a german lady. I did a side by side comparison of them climbing and her technique is !!! woah! She makes the whole thing look a whole grade easier, not by being stronger, but by optimising her foot placement and points of contact, even extending a 2 move sequence so that her foot placement is offering her as much support as possible. Would definitely recommend checking that out, and even doing a ten minute side by side comparison with two browser windows open
Super fun, helpful, encouraging video. Thank you!
Thanks for a great video, your production quality is awesome! I can’t wait for the next! Surprised to find I’m your same age; I’ve been climbing for about 9 months and am at max 5.10/6a but these videos inspire me to keep trying hard! I’ve got a lot of room for improvement before I might have to actually train 😂
Good luck dude. I have the same goal to reach by January 2023. I thought I'd be closer by now, but i only solo, and getting use to being above my last draw on harder spots is taking some time. I practiced falling like you showed in a video and it helped alot. Plus my new rig for solo is working way better than my old way. Thanks man, have a good un
Daaaaaamn you had me so psyched at the end with the music. The psyche got soo real I had goosebumps in my neck and wanted to just jump in a van and go to the crag.
Ben i spended weeks in a tent next to the cracks watching climbers in Tonsai beach on my trip trough Thailand, amazing place and where i got fascinated by climbing, great channel love you projects and videos!
G'day Ben. Due to long term injury, im unable to pursue this totally awesome activity.
So, i live vicariously , lol.
Great channel cobber.
Brilliant presentation.
Cheers for sharing.
Looking forward to the next one. Take care and good luck!
Currently working my own 5.13 (it’s in a gym, and it feels just like red river gorge) my first real sport project, thought that looks a lot harder! (Mine is just pumpy overhang finishing in a sketchy/dynamic pocket sequence) great vid! Love the content
Ben, honestly, your videos are by far the best climbing content out there. Somehow, they align so well with the stuff I want to know related to climbing, and go into topics I am very much interested in. Looking forward to the next one coming out!
I love all your videos Ben, stoked to see your improvements. Lattice are great guys and so good at what they do.
Really nice video - always love to see two of my favourite channels (lattice + you) collaborate. Looking forward to part 2!
Great video, I like that it's not just about training and reaching goals, but first about having fun and have a good time with friends.
Great episode Ben. That got me hyped to train harder! 💪🏻
The only thing I see is you training ... how is this gonna get harder? :D
@@HardIsEasy 🤣 when In doubt add weight!
I loved this video so much. It is so bold and honest and chill and nice. Seeing a pro like you talking about the happiness of sharing climbing and the fun of having friends
I'm here for this journey. Can't wait to see the transformation!
Cool to see your strength tests. Good luck with training! Looking very forward to your 8a!
Such a great series set up👍 super excited
This was very inspiring and motivating!
I hope to reach that level at some point, I've been climbing for half a year now
I was wondering why I sucked, then I saw this video and now I get it... Thank you, and lets do this together......
Excellent video. With this approach and these trainers, it seems you'll get to 8a and beyond without a doubt.
Amazing video! Waiting to see that progress coming!! :D
Cool to see that you were at Terres Neuves!
Super excited for this series!
This video is terrific!!!!! I loved it!!! ❤❤❤❤❤
Always nice to watch your videos and this one really warms the heart to see you having fun training and finding your own path… keep rocking !! 👍
Yeaaah thank you so much!
Always excited to learn about progression in climbing.
For me (age 40) I started climbing 11 yrs ago, around 2009 at age 29, and so far never did any real structured training.
I think it's not necessary for progression, as long as you're patient and have fun.
First few years stuck to low grades (5c-6c+), climbed only occasionally (kinda scared of falling),
and more into multi-pitch climbs (with some trad), which made it exciting but also a bit dangerous in retrospect.
First few 7a+ in 2012,
first 7b in 2014 (flash!)
first few 7b+ in 2015,
first 7c and 7c+ in 2016, and only then really getting into sport climbing.
First three 8as in 2017,
first two 8a+ in 2018, kinda plateauing at that grade for 3 years, but not really, as those first 8a+ were way easier than some of the later, harder 8a+.
Finally my first 8b in March 2021, followed by another 8b in April at age 39.
At the moment, some injuries are keeping me from further progression.
And that is where we get to what I originally wanted to say :D ...
I think training (done right) would be a great way to avoid injuries, especially for climbers who really go all out on their projects, kind of overdoing it, demanding too much out of their bodies during those red point fights, trying the same moves again and again - and eventually get injured.
Thank you for your insight! :) I still want to add that I would rather say that it is very individual! Since everyone comes with a different set of slow and fast twitch muscles and different metabolism, flexibility and so on it may apply to one person to climb that hard without special training and to others it doesn't.
And an important information for everybody: muscles adapt much faster than other structures.
So be careful to not overdo because you feel (and are) very strong but the tendons and ligaments are lacking behind.
:)
Amazing video as always, love your content! Good luck on the training journey! We are waiting for that 8a
Wow, its really funny to me because we climb almost the same grades! And i never trained once in my life either! And also some time ago i checked lattice training website and theyr program and i said to my self that if eventually i'd want to sart training seriously i'd choose them as coaches! Right now i'm redpointing a 7c+ in my local crag as well! Keep in up Ben! Can't wait for the next episodes!
Great video! I'll need to follow your journey through these videos. I suppose I'll start my own as well...
Always entertaining and informative - my early morning smile ☺️
You're so inspiring!
What a great video! enjoyed it very much, great cut, flow FUN! Yes I am like you, weak but good technique - working on my strength as well. It´s not as much fun - but for me the goal is to have a good basis to not get injured again.
I think I like this one more than anything else you ever made...
Though I also love the stuff you do regarding safety.
Very inspiring!!
Amazing! lets see if the follow up will be the same 🙂
@@HardIsEasy can’t wait!! ✌🏻
Loved this video!
It's nice to see that we're all the same. Struggling with training. 😁
But nice video and the best sentence is "hard it's easier with a friend". That's so true.
Really enjoyed this! : )
Man this video was great!!! The beautyful montages and story telling i love it!!!👍
Keep the great work up and have a great training session👏
hey great stuff man!!. I'm also having a project in mind - a 7a and 7a+. I were trying to do it in the middle of the year then realize reaching my plateau before looking for Lattice. This video is really inspiring me that I am trying the project in next month after 12 weeks training program. Looking to see your result soon
Good effort as well! Keep it long term ;) And the journey is fun
hey man! awesome video as always. Some nice data: libertad de expresión does not mean "liberate your expressions". It translates to FREEDOM OF SPEECH.
Good video as usual. Training is a lifelong journey with tiny incremental steps. As Tom was saying, simple and basic exercises worked on consistently over many weeks and months are key along with the principle, "Fall down seven times, get up eight" over and over. Good luck!
Thanks!
Thank You Nicolas!
Dude I am 38. Started climbing at 35. The funny thing is that its not all about climbing. Camping. hiking, spending time in the mountains with friends. Climbing is the added bonus which makes it all fun. Have fun, get strong and have a good time. Thats what lifes about, living it!
Fantástico. Buena filosofía de escalada y sobre todo.... de vida !! 😁👍🏼😎
for the crux, "3 weeks, the amount of time it usually takes me to send a project". that is good to hear. After ~8years of climbing. We need more focus on such things. When you have been climbing for 1-3 years and you see such videos on youtube, this perspective is just glanced over, or people mention in passing the "hard work" part. We, as a society, need more of a deep dive into this aspect of climbing to be humbled and gain patience for our journey
Great to see a lattice collab
Love this video Ben! I’ve been training for more than a year, and it really helped me to have a better base for climbing. Hope you enjoy it too. Can’t wait for next episode 😂
Yea my view on Training keeps changing as I go... will talk about this in next episodes
Fun video!!
Stability, Strength, Power = less injury. More fun!
Didn't know you only started around 27! I'm 30 now and have been climbing for 2 years. I've got big goals too, so this is super inspiring.
Yea I never thought I'm gonna climb 8a :DDDD but...
You just keep having fun and getting better
What a beautiful line.
I loved this video. Specially the life philosophy side.
Great video! Funny that there are the same number of ‘s’s in ‘Assessments’ as there are in ‘Testing Sessions’ 😆
I’m dying 😂through this video. I’m the same as you. I have always just had fun climbing. Never really worried about the grade and I definitely never worked out.
Great vids !
Thanks!
Nice series, really looking forward to the next episodes! Also gives me some motivation to work on my flexibility as well 😅
yea don't get as bad as me :))))
I hope your belayer has a Grigri looking at his hand position ^^.
Nice vid as always
I totally relate to not being able to do the thing you want to do but have to do something else to get better at it. But there's something about when you finish your training regime and go back to the activity how suddenly .. hard is easy.
I'm distracted by the crack on the right 😅 looks like a super trad route 🤤
Reminds me of the manchester climbing wall the old richmond Petersburg rail road pilars made from quarried granite stones around the james river rva
I would love to watch video of your van
I was going to say “strong has diminishing return” is just a limited view of specific strength.
Strength, specific strength (hands and feet for climbing, pull ups and pistol squats on worse and worse holds) but Aldo strength endurance. Let’s not forget, mental strength!
Also I think climbing is mostly transverse plane where pull ups and “training” happen largely in the Sagittal plane. Transverse plane and at just about any angle you can imagine, which you would have to go out of your way to train in a gym
"Just eat chips at home and watch youtube of people training"
I feel called out. Brb going to go train 😅
Fun over everything
Just remember you can build strength through endurance, but you can't build endurance through strength. I was always told this from a friend of mine who was an amazing climber. to his point, he is capped because of flexibility and once you get to 5.13 level you need both endurance and flexibility.
Cheers on the progress, i think determination also plays a large part in your progress.
great vid
Specificity of training, boys!
3:12 Belayer = Believer
Awesome video Ben. When can we expect the follow up/part 2?
Yeap, edit in progress ;) Thanks!
"This is a fake celebration post but thanks for stopping the video to read this" Breaking the fourth wall, editing skills on fleek :D
Congrats you are the first one :D
High quality content as always, I will continue eating my chips lmao
at least do some bycep curls while holding a chip before you put that to your mouth ;)
@@HardIsEasy amen brother, curls and chips 🦾
let’s slay 8a!
that crimpy rock in the first part of the video looks fantastic! what part of Spain was that?
5:00 I need to hear the complete version of the song really bad 😂
Oook lets do that :)
@@HardIsEasy me too! I'd love to hear it from the beginning till the end! :)
Ok ok ok. Maybe I should start training too. I started stretching. Which already was a stretch for me 😉
yes, a stretch is a stretch...
I am curious what the flexion of the fingers in crimping was about, if you remember that conversation! 8:52
Here come's the day when learned what is your name😅 Very cool content🤘
:))))) It was hard... but I did it :)))
Great video concept, great edit! I've also never had the discipline or interest in structured training - I just climb (and sometimes do pull-ups haha). I've kept seeing great progression until now, but having climbed for 3 years I can finally see I'm starting to plateau a bit. Now I'm super curious about getting assessed! Might be time to dig deep, find some discipline and do some hangboarding :/
There are def benefits to structure :) I just need to edit those benefits :DDDD
@@HardIsEasy I did the lattice finger strength test this evening after watching the video! Got 196% bodyweight so I'm feeling better about my climbing only programme haha. But apparently I should be climbing harder so now I'm just confused! Probably lacking power :/
@@f8bouldering 7s 20mm edge you did at 196% bw? woooooaaat :D that's sick. But hey! Climbing is a complext movement sport you can't match your grade with this simple tests alone
@@HardIsEasy yeah 20mm for 7s. I was surprised too haha! But you're right climbing is so complex and a single test certainly can't tell you what your grade "should" be. Experience counts for a lot and having only climbed for 3 years I've got a long way to go.
The translation is more like "Freedom of Expression", but great video!!!
Source: Spanish speaker
How can i put two thumbs up on this video? Great stuff!
Can identify with this. My problem was the opposite, super fit and carrying way too much muscle. What changed things for me was doing laps on climbs just below my maximum. Pretty soon I went from 1 lap to 12 or more, but using less than half the energy. I topped out at 12c, which I think was fairly respectable for a 200 lb climber 25 years ago at just a few years older than you. You just need to add a little muscle to your forearms and shoulders, fix your flexibility issues and the rest will come easy with the reps.
informative
Best belayer for sure !
Hi, my native language is spanish. "Libertad de expresión" is commonly translated as "Freedom of speech", not "Liberate your expression". But it was pretty close.
I think the idea of climbing just to climb and have fun is great, I do this most of the time, but I do reguarly find a project which is the next grade up, firstly as I like the climb itself, but it just is currently beyond me, and in live it is also good to set goals, just as something to strife for. I never take on a Projekt in climbing or bouldering just for the grade sake, because there are plenty of routes or Problems out there that allow me to push the grade but just are not enjoyable for me, and having fun doing it is the most important thing.
and i climb cos I love it, have had a hangboard for two years and except now, for recovery training, I've never used it.