I run mine with the valve cover off to make sure the pushrods are oiling and spinning properly because i have had those holes clog/restrict during use and a non-spinner can indicate a bent rod or bad lifter.
there isn't really any up, it's a flat engine. The lifters push the oil in the push rod tube as far as I understand. The real failure was the cam gear.
@@amazoidal - Looks like a SBC roller rocker could fit. EDIT: A roller rocker like T&D has internal oil channels that allow the oil to flow up against gravity to reach the roller bearing and the valve stem.
I put an engine from a wrecked 65 Corvair Monza (140hp)into a 1965 Corsa. Did the job at the back of a dealers lot in Thompson Manitoba in 1971.No jack, bits of wood, on my back on the asphalt, most of the time. It took me a while. It ran fine, until I let it go when I got married and was dirt poor. Are there any sig nificant differences between the 65 and 66 model years? Loved the way the car handled, 80 mph going sideways on a gravel road northern Manitoba. Very manageable, Michelin tires. Loved that car. Beautiful lines. Heating sucked. Like your site, hope to see more on this awesome car.
Corvairs are just beautiful cars. And this one is really really nice. And the best part is they are such a joy to drive. My first car was a 68 Monza 4-spd. :-)
they're underrated for sure. They're not sports cars or performance cars in my opinion, but they drive fantastic and are quite usable and enjoyable. thanks for watching.
If you value you heads than you need the bottom tin and thermostats/damper doors. The danger is running the engine at high power for an extended time, such as going up a long hill or mountain pass. Now you usually are going DOWN the other side. Your car is traveling the same speed going down as it was going up and speed is what determines the fan RPM. The fan is running the same speed going down the hill at 10% throttle as it was going up the hill at 80% throttle. You heads were likely over 320 degrees at the top of the hill and if you don't have the bottom tin, thermostats and damper doors it will be cooled by over 200 degrees in less than 5 minutes. That's thermal shock that will knock your valve seats out in record time! If you never drive down hills maybe you can do without the "bottom tin" but I don't really think that's possible. The goal is to keep you engine head temperature as stable as possible. Large and rapid changes in head temperature is the enemy.
I agree with this 100%. I didn't get into it too much in the video, because I know there are varying opinions. I always run lower shrouds and have never had any issues. That's why I mentioned the even cooling. If I'm out for a long drive in the fall and it's cool outside but my engine is warm, I want it to cool evenly and not shock. I also let Corvairs idle and stabalize for a few minutes after getting off the highway to let them cool via the fan, prior to shutting them off. I think this is common practice with most seasoned Corvair owners. Thanks for your comment, it explains it well.
I did not record it, I really don't want to hear that sound again. To me it sounds different. This was a high squeak and distinctly from the bottom side.
I was waiting for this episode! So did the cam gear fail due to debris from the rocker arm assembly passing through it? Or was there a backlash issue when assembled? Too bad whoever previously rebuilt it, did not pay attention to what they were doing. Any engine assembled with gobs of silicone, is going to contain issues... Another question. Where does your Pertronix get its power from? The positive terminal of the coil (via the resistor wire), or a dedicated 12 volt source? And what coil are you using??? Thanks.
Cam gear failed because we believe there was a slight bend in the crank shaft that caused some odd wear. It was a new cam gear that failed. My pertronix presently is getting power from the resistor wire. I run a flame thrower coil. I usually do not prefer pertronix, especially in PG cars. I prefer to use an XR700 from Crane/F.A.S.T. and I have had great success with those. I have that in my '64 and many other previous cars. However, this car had pertronix on it, is a manual trans and I have had no issues with voltage cut out like I get on PG with low idle in drive. I hope that helps.
Thanks for your reply. My '66 140 Monza PG had a variety of running problems and I installed a Pertronix 1 through part of the troubleshooting process. Later I removed it and went back to points and eventually discovered a failing fuel pump was the primary running problems. Mulling over reinstalling the Pertronix again. Did not have stalling issues when it was on before, and powered it at different times via the resistor wire or a dedicated 12 volt source without noticeable difference. Going to get a new wiring harness from Clark's so thinking about my wiring options...@@SlowCarFix
Ed- I noticed you have a “Slow Car Fix” window sticker on the rear window of the station wagon wall art. Do you sell them? I would be interested in advertising your channel. If yes, please let me know the cost?
![1965 Corvair Upgrades (part 2) [crankshaft, forged pistons, heads]](/img/n.gif)
Beautiful Corsa, thanks for sharing and great job!
Thank you and thanks for watching.
One of these days im gonna have a garage almost as big as yours, With multiple car lifts ! Your shop is Awesome !
Thanks, it took a long time and a lot of hard work to be able to have it.
I run mine with the valve cover off to make sure the pushrods are oiling and spinning properly because i have had those holes clog/restrict during use and a non-spinner can indicate a bent rod or bad lifter.
Good thinking.
I wonder how the oil from the pushrod can flow up against gravity to reach the rocker arm bushing and the valve stem.
there isn't really any up, it's a flat engine. The lifters push the oil in the push rod tube as far as I understand. The real failure was the cam gear.
Looks like a standard GM rocker. Can you get roller rockers?
@@amazoidal - Looks like a SBC roller rocker could fit.
EDIT: A roller rocker like T&D has internal oil channels that allow the oil to flow up against gravity to reach the roller bearing and the valve stem.
Hello Ed, I love to see those classics on the road. Well done! ✌
I'm very happy to have this one back running again. It's a great car to drive. Thanks for watching, as always.
Great to see the Vair again
Thanks very much, so glad to have it back running.
I put an engine from a wrecked 65 Corvair Monza (140hp)into a 1965 Corsa. Did the job at the back of a dealers lot in Thompson Manitoba in 1971.No jack, bits of wood, on my back on the asphalt, most of the time. It took me a while. It ran fine, until I let it go when I got married and was dirt poor. Are there any sig nificant differences
between the 65 and 66 model years? Loved the way the car handled, 80 mph going sideways on a gravel road northern Manitoba. Very manageable, Michelin tires. Loved that car. Beautiful lines. Heating sucked. Like your site, hope to see more on this awesome car.
There are quite a few differences between 65 and 66 cars, but nothing that changes how the car is assembled.
Corvairs are just beautiful cars. And this one is really really nice. And the best part is they are such a joy to drive. My first car was a 68 Monza 4-spd. :-)
they're underrated for sure. They're not sports cars or performance cars in my opinion, but they drive fantastic and are quite usable and enjoyable. thanks for watching.
Your opinion please on making the post 65 Corvairs into a "sports" car? Surely the potential is there?
On the road! Well done.
thanks!!
If you value you heads than you need the bottom tin and thermostats/damper doors. The danger is running the engine at high power for an extended time, such as going up a long hill or mountain pass. Now you usually are going DOWN the other side. Your car is traveling the same speed going down as it was going up and speed is what determines the fan RPM. The fan is running the same speed going down the hill at 10% throttle as it was going up the hill at 80% throttle. You heads were likely over 320 degrees at the top of the hill and if you don't have the bottom tin, thermostats and damper doors it will be cooled by over 200 degrees in less than 5 minutes. That's thermal shock that will knock your valve seats out in record time! If you never drive down hills maybe you can do without the "bottom tin" but I don't really think that's possible. The goal is to keep you engine head temperature as stable as possible. Large and rapid changes in head temperature is the enemy.
I agree with this 100%. I didn't get into it too much in the video, because I know there are varying opinions. I always run lower shrouds and have never had any issues. That's why I mentioned the even cooling. If I'm out for a long drive in the fall and it's cool outside but my engine is warm, I want it to cool evenly and not shock. I also let Corvairs idle and stabalize for a few minutes after getting off the highway to let them cool via the fan, prior to shutting them off. I think this is common practice with most seasoned Corvair owners. Thanks for your comment, it explains it well.
Is this opinion or is there data to back it up?
Do you have a recording how the rockerarm squeak sounds?
Does it sound similar to a bad Alternator bearing?
I did not record it, I really don't want to hear that sound again. To me it sounds different. This was a high squeak and distinctly from the bottom side.
I was waiting for this episode! So did the cam gear fail due to debris from the rocker arm assembly passing through it? Or was there a backlash issue when assembled? Too bad whoever previously rebuilt it, did not pay attention to what they were doing. Any engine assembled with gobs of silicone, is going to contain issues... Another question. Where does your Pertronix get its power from? The positive terminal of the coil (via the resistor wire), or a dedicated 12 volt source? And what coil are you using??? Thanks.
Cam gear failed because we believe there was a slight bend in the crank shaft that caused some odd wear. It was a new cam gear that failed. My pertronix presently is getting power from the resistor wire. I run a flame thrower coil. I usually do not prefer pertronix, especially in PG cars. I prefer to use an XR700 from Crane/F.A.S.T. and I have had great success with those. I have that in my '64 and many other previous cars. However, this car had pertronix on it, is a manual trans and I have had no issues with voltage cut out like I get on PG with low idle in drive. I hope that helps.
Thanks for your reply. My '66 140 Monza PG had a variety of running problems and I installed a Pertronix 1 through part of the troubleshooting process. Later I removed it and went back to points and eventually discovered a failing fuel pump was the primary running problems. Mulling over reinstalling the Pertronix again. Did not have stalling issues when it was on before, and powered it at different times via the resistor wire or a dedicated 12 volt source without noticeable difference. Going to get a new wiring harness from Clark's so thinking about my wiring options...@@SlowCarFix
Ed- I noticed you have a “Slow Car Fix” window sticker on the rear window of the station wagon wall art. Do you sell them? I would be interested in advertising your channel. If yes, please let me know the cost?
I have some. Send me an email slowcarfix@outlook.com