The pushrod tubes have a real simple tool to remove and install them. You can get it from multiple Corvair parts suppliers. There are also some good adapters for the oil cooler that do a much better job cooling the oil than the stock cooler.
I am a old corvair guy.built many of them,still have some.what u have is scrap. Find a95 hp and rebuild it. Strong ,dependable and will run on low quality gas. Just repaired a 180, that was fun.
Hello sir, from your experience, do today's mechanics who repair modern cars have the skills to repair such a car/engine ? I ask this because i find a good deal with an 140 from 1965 with few problems like jerk reverse clutch, liking oil on the left when engine is warm, and some ignition problem, the seller said he couldn't fix the ignition. I'm affraid i will not find someone to fix it or if i find it will take the skin over me with the price :) I'm from Eastern EU, and here you see cars like that... only in expositions :)
@Daniel-iu7ob no I don't . IF you can find someone that can work on a air-cooled vw then maybe. In my opinion Stay away from 140's. Turbo and 140 are the least reliable. 102,95 and 110 are the best for beginners.
@@RyansSpeedShop You would have been covered in a frozen mist I understand that. I’m enjoying watching the tear down. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Count yourself fortunate. When I disassembled the 80HP in my Corvair Lakewood station wagon one cylinder was nearly impossible to remove. Like you the engine had been "Ratified." The corrosion was so bad I cut the corners off a 4"X4", clamped it to a trailer tongue and still couldn't pry, whack the head off with a mallet etc. This after soaking the head/cylinder with penetrating oil for two weeks. I had also used the washing soda electrolysis method for 3 days. In the end I wound up slinging the cylinder on the underside of my 20 ton press using steel plates and capturing just the two nubs on the cylinder. I dropped a baggie with sand into the cylinder to distribute the pressure using about 6" of the mentioned 4"x4" and with heat FINALLY pressed the cylinder off the head!
I have watched so many American car home "mechanics" and am always shocked that so many do NOT clean an engine before working on them. Here in South Africa the first thing they do is clean an engine before they even look at it. In fact, I was once asked to please make sure my engine was steam cleaned before taking in. It's ridiculous that you people will work on an engine in that condition even if it is for "spares"
My cars I put time and effort in are gonna be clean and presentable. Engines I pull out of cars found on farms typically are gonna look similar to this. Guaranteed this car has 30 something years of dirt caked on it and for something I know isn't gonna run without a rebuild I'm just gonna disassemble it and I'll clean it down the road if I go to use anything.
Ryan - I had a 1965 Corvair Corsa in high school - 140 HP version. The Corsas, both 140 and 180 models, had lower gears than the 110 HP Monza. Since the 500 likely didn't come with the 140 engine, when somebody swapped that they may have swapped the trans too. I never could figure out how to get the secondary carbs working right, so I left them disconnected most of the time. Sad, but it was still faster than a 110 HP Monza - based on one racing experience... I thought that was because I had lower gears.
So surprisingly this one was factory 140/4speed based on the paint code tag in the engine bay. It also had the lower gear option. It's a shame the body was completely gone from rust but hopefully I can get this motor and tranny swapped into another car here soon. These carbs are worst than the engine so I might be primary only too
@@RyansSpeedShop being an old fart now and my family bought tons of old cars old junkers for demolition cars etc. first thing always on the way home. Stop at the car wash put some solvent on the engine let's it soak on the way to the car wash. Leave all that crud at the car Wash. It's just a suggestion.
picked up a couple rat infested 140s that had been setting in dirt for a long time. Took a lot of work to tear them apart as everything frozen. One was total junk except for the aftermarket oil pan and valve covers and crank. Other one slightly better and might be able to salvage the heads. Lesson learned. Rat piss corrodes aluminum and steel.
I am 0 for 2 on rat infested 140s. The one that came with my corsa was way worst than this one. The intake log on the heads were ate thru. I was hoping to have enough parts between this one and the other but the search goes on. This one surprised me. In the car the engine just looked dry til I pulled the top shroud off. At least you got some aftermarket pieces from your engines.
Hello sir, i find a deal for a Corvair 140 (1965) with few problems like "clutch jerk in reverse", "leaking oil on left side of engine when is warm", "some ignition problems". >>> Can you tell me please if the mechanical of this car is complicate or expensive to fix ? Regular mechanics can fix it ? I don't know almost nothing about fixing cars. Thanks
I guess he doesn't own a shop vac to at least remove the lose dry rat debris and after give the engine a rinse down with penetrating oil, which I learned working on old air cooled vw engines and seemed to help considerably during disassembly
Looks like you needed to start the whole tear down by pressure washing all the shit off.🤣 Wonder what some of the removed parts would look like after maybe soda blasting them. Well you had fun anyway!👍
Gee, I wonder why it's locked up? Break out the pressure washer! Every builder should have one. Have you seen the Nash Fan on utube?Check it out on the CORSA channel!!
The rings and piston was just seized to the jug. I do have a little electric power washer that gets the job done. This one being locked up I didn't bother and it was pretty cold that week. I have been following the Nash fan. It seems very promising. I have a Salih 3.0l kit that I really want to try one on when i get that motor ready to go in one of my corvairs. Just gotta start saving up for one or 3.
The rats got it right,, Corvair engines are ideal to shit on,, Just remember, If you try to do anything to get any performance out of it, it only makes them run hotter.
That 140 is garbage! Sad to see any vehicle left to rot. Damned rats/mice are the bane of all auto enthusiasts. My sister just got back from a cross-cuntry trip to find her daily driver car electrical system completely destroyed by them varmits - the spark plug wires were just . . . gone, w/ just the hint of boots at the plugs. Vacuum lines trashed, electrical harnesses chewed beyond recognition. Took two weeksto sort the mess out.
This is the best disassembly show of all thanks Ryans
The pushrod tubes have a real simple tool to remove and install them. You can get it from multiple Corvair parts suppliers.
There are also some good adapters for the oil cooler that do a much better job cooling the oil than the stock cooler.
I am a old corvair guy.built many of them,still have some.what u have is scrap.
Find a95 hp and rebuild it. Strong ,dependable and will run on low quality gas.
Just repaired a 180, that was fun.
Hello sir, from your experience, do today's mechanics who repair modern cars have the skills to repair such a car/engine ? I ask this because i find a good deal with an 140 from 1965 with few problems like jerk reverse clutch, liking oil on the left when engine is warm, and some ignition problem, the seller said he couldn't fix the ignition. I'm affraid i will not find someone to fix it or if i find it will take the skin over me with the price :) I'm from Eastern EU, and here you see cars like that... only in expositions :)
@Daniel-iu7ob no I don't . IF you can find someone that can work on a air-cooled vw then maybe.
In my opinion Stay away from 140's. Turbo and 140 are the least reliable. 102,95 and 110 are the best for beginners.
Curious why you didn’t pressure wash this engine for cleanup prior to disassembly? That plus a liberal dosing of PB Blaster could have helped.
It was freezing out when I had done this. I didn't feel like messing with it just to disassemble it. And pb blaster would had helped a lot
@@RyansSpeedShop You would have been covered in a frozen mist I understand that. I’m enjoying watching the tear down. Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
PB blaster does wonders dissolving rust and crud. Prevents unneeded damage during disassembly.
First time seeing a corvair engine tore apart. Fun to see the similarities with a VW which I just rebuilt.
Count yourself fortunate. When I disassembled the 80HP in my Corvair Lakewood station wagon one cylinder was nearly impossible to remove. Like you the engine had been "Ratified." The corrosion was so bad I cut the corners off a 4"X4", clamped it to a trailer tongue and still couldn't pry, whack the head off with a mallet etc. This after soaking the head/cylinder with penetrating oil for two weeks. I had also used the washing soda electrolysis method for 3 days. In the end I wound up slinging the cylinder on the underside of my 20 ton press using steel plates and capturing just the two nubs on the cylinder. I dropped a baggie with sand into the cylinder to distribute the pressure using about 6" of the mentioned 4"x4" and with heat FINALLY pressed the cylinder off the head!
This will help me a lot with putting my 1966 corvair engine back together. I can just watch it backwards to show what part goes where
Beautiful engine design.
I have watched so many American car home "mechanics" and am always shocked that so many do NOT clean an engine before working on them. Here in South Africa the first thing they do is clean an engine before they even look at it. In fact, I was once asked to please make sure my engine was steam cleaned before taking in. It's ridiculous that you people will work on an engine in that condition even if it is for "spares"
I always clean before working on an engine.
My cars I put time and effort in are gonna be clean and presentable. Engines I pull out of cars found on farms typically are gonna look similar to this. Guaranteed this car has 30 something years of dirt caked on it and for something I know isn't gonna run without a rebuild I'm just gonna disassemble it and I'll clean it down the road if I go to use anything.
Get a nice high pressure parts washer. Or a closed metal case with diesel. Leave the parts in there.
Ryan - I had a 1965 Corvair Corsa in high school - 140 HP version. The Corsas, both 140 and 180 models, had lower gears than the 110 HP Monza. Since the 500 likely didn't come with the 140 engine, when somebody swapped that they may have swapped the trans too. I never could figure out how to get the secondary carbs working right, so I left them disconnected most of the time. Sad, but it was still faster than a 110 HP Monza - based on one racing experience... I thought that was because I had lower gears.
So surprisingly this one was factory 140/4speed based on the paint code tag in the engine bay. It also had the lower gear option. It's a shame the body was completely gone from rust but hopefully I can get this motor and tranny swapped into another car here soon. These carbs are worst than the engine so I might be primary only too
@@RyansSpeedShop being an old fart now and my family bought tons of old cars old junkers for demolition cars etc. first thing always on the way home. Stop at the car wash put some solvent on the engine let's it soak on the way to the car wash.
Leave all that crud at the car Wash. It's just a suggestion.
Curious why you didn’t use any penetrant? I’ve had to deal with similar engines and I hose everything down with PB Blaster.
I ended up using it up soaking the jug to head area and spark plugs every night for a couple days in prep for the teardown.
thank you for saving 1
Surprised you don’t mount that on an engine stand. I find being able to rotate it makes it so much easier.
I finally got a stand after having my car for decades. It's NICE. Previously did it just as shown here. Many Corvair peeps don't use stands.
if you wash the block first //you can save lots of work// or pressure wash block //you can save 90 % and send to be clean .
J C Whitney still has parts for these
I hadn't looked at jc Whitney in a while. I'll have to go see what they offer.
Penetrating oil might help plus get rid of the impact until you break the bolts loose .
picked up a couple rat infested 140s that had been setting in dirt for a long time. Took a lot of work to tear them apart as everything frozen. One was total junk except for the aftermarket oil pan and valve covers and crank. Other one slightly better and might be able to salvage the heads. Lesson learned. Rat piss corrodes aluminum and steel.
I am 0 for 2 on rat infested 140s. The one that came with my corsa was way worst than this one. The intake log on the heads were ate thru. I was hoping to have enough parts between this one and the other but the search goes on. This one surprised me. In the car the engine just looked dry til I pulled the top shroud off. At least you got some aftermarket pieces from your engines.
can you put a 4 race cam in it
I commend you on your optimism. That looked pretty bad from the start.
👍 Brings back many memories... you should invest in a HF engine rotisserie.... and pair of good work gloves
hole plug-up// on oil hole take out oil filter now
Hello sir, i find a deal for a Corvair 140 (1965) with few problems like "clutch jerk in reverse", "leaking oil on left side of engine when is warm", "some ignition problems".
>>> Can you tell me please if the mechanical of this car is complicate or expensive to fix ? Regular mechanics can fix it ? I don't know almost nothing about fixing cars. Thanks
I guess he doesn't own a shop vac to at least remove the lose dry rat debris and after give the engine a rinse down with penetrating oil, which I learned working on old air cooled vw engines and seemed to help considerably during disassembly
9:16 must be lucky because that didn't work for mine
Why not PB blast those rusty bolts and nuts?
I was out of it
did that have a manual or automatic transmission
It's was a manual 4spd
Since you are taking engine apart you could just try moving the heads and the tubs should come out with them
they do make new fans, performance ones even that give better cooling, just a fyi
Nice
Looks like you needed to start the whole tear down by pressure washing all the shit off.🤣 Wonder what some of the removed parts would look like after maybe soda blasting them. Well you had fun anyway!👍
Early American cars do not have metric bolts on them.
Gee, I wonder why it's locked up? Break out the pressure washer! Every builder should have one. Have you seen the Nash Fan on utube?Check it out on the CORSA channel!!
The rings and piston was just seized to the jug. I do have a little electric power washer that gets the job done. This one being locked up I didn't bother and it was pretty cold that week. I have been following the Nash fan. It seems very promising. I have a Salih 3.0l kit that I really want to try one on when i get that motor ready to go in one of my corvairs. Just gotta start saving up for one or 3.
The rats got it right,, Corvair engines are ideal to shit on,, Just remember, If you try to do anything to get any performance out of it, it only makes them run hotter.
That's the fun of it
There is some more epoxy two-part epoxy clay stuff to put on infinite them all drugs are
On Wentworth put the wrong thing dinner I mean linseed oil
Epoxy steel
you may want to power wash first...
That 140 is garbage! Sad to see any vehicle left to rot. Damned rats/mice are the bane of all auto enthusiasts. My sister just got back from a cross-cuntry trip to find her daily driver car electrical system completely destroyed by them varmits - the spark plug wires were just . . . gone, w/ just the hint of boots at the plugs. Vacuum lines trashed, electrical harnesses chewed beyond recognition. Took two weeksto sort the mess out.
The impact is supposed to be gutless that's the whole point of it..it's a small impact for small jobs..
How many people will abuse that millions
Power wash first
nothing there to salvage hardly