Thank you Tim. I studied with you years ago at Triangle in Pittsburgh and can say that good technique never goes out of style. This has been a kinda review of what I learned from you years ago, something I still use today.
Great video and beautifully posed and set. I recently decided that larger groups on location are often much better shot in the environment, whatever it may be, than cut out against a pseudo-studio backdrop, because of the excess editing work required to tidy things up later. Learned that lesson the hard way.
Thank you. This is nice. I wish I knew this last year when taking photos for a family reunion. However, I'll get a chance to try it within the next two weeks at another family event. I really like this!
Not really. I did over thirty years of big conventions. I don't enjoy traveling for work anymore. I was invited to the last one to speak for the new levelup LVLUP Imahing, but it came kinda late so I didn't go. Thanks for watching.
Since the ambient is more "fixed" we use that exposure element as the base and add other lighting to it. I choose the shutter and aperture then often use power settings or placement to get the blend I want.
This is super helpful, thank you. Question though, I use ad200's and they don't go by f/stop, they go by power, like 1/128, 1/64, etc. How does that correlate to your f/8, f/11, etc? Also....how far away and back from the group are your lights? I have a group of 26 seniors I'm photographing on a dry desert lake bed during the golden hour. I've got 2 ad200s and an 860ii. Hoping this will be enough for fill light. How big are the softboxes here or what would you recommend? Thanks!
Thanks for watching! If you're working against high level ambient light you may just have enough to do it. Depends on modifiers and distance. When we use our Godox (and any other powerlight), digital feedback is initially all we need. Technically speaking, metering the existing light first, then adding the fill (or second light) to get an acceptable level, then adding in the main light (your 2nd AD200) to get your "key" light that gives shape and direction. Usually just 1 stop or less MORE than the fill. If you're shy on power, large silver umbrellas will help. To make it nicer (better shadow edge transfer) use white, large softboxes or transl panels. Hope this helps a little. SO many variables.
Tim, I have an extended family group to photograph inside in their living room, with the large group being 12 people total... with the space provided, probably 3 rows: kids kneeling and some sitting on laps, row 2 sitting on sofa, row 3 standing behind sofa. I'm wondering what the best way to light the group would be.... (1) similar to this video, (2) main off axis with fill directly behind camera, or (3) a light on each side. The ceiling isn't that high so thinking of going with 40" shoot through umbrellas, as light spill isn't really a concern. I don't want boring flat light, but also don't want cross shadows or unflattering shadows.
I haven't published one recently as I added speedlight portraits 3 yrs ago and LED portraits in this year. I always prefer white reflectprs from 32" to 6'. I do have assorted silver and gold for use less often. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, Tim - another great one. I don't understand how you're not getting light falloff between those closest to anf farthest from your two lights on your left. Is the reflector really picking up the slack? The result you achieved is beautiful!
You can do it. You're using the fall off created by the feathering of each light. You could measure it with a meter or view it by eye. Play with it. Positioning, pitch, distance and power all matter - but I've used this for decades on big groups since the days of 20+ person bridal parties.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques Ugh... thanks, Tim. I remember those wedding parties too well! I've played with that setup a bit and the falloff wasn't nearly as bad as I imagined it would be. You're right - a bit of tweaking and we were there! Thanks as always. Have a blessed day.
Great video, Tim. Do you think a similar result will come up by using a 180 reflecting umbrella with three speedlites fixed on a Westcott bracket? In case if Strobes like Godox AD300 are not available, an the group will be no more than about 6-8 people? Greets Rainer
How do you handle this when someone has glasses. The glasses are driving me nuts and I really hate having to take time to do shots without glasses for photoshop when trying to move quick with a family.
dunno about this in real world shoots. sure -- great lighting if you have time and pro models but groups like this with kids get impatient and antsy while setting this all up and adjusting light power and position etc. you will need an assistant. then there are break-out groups requiring new lighting set up. try this on a run-n-gun beach family shoot with wind -- good luck with that!
@@oxxxeee no not for the beach. I always have two assistants and everything is see and tested before bringing all the subjects in. Not much changing of the light for sub groups. Has worked for me. When I do beach shoots each of my guys are holding lights and moving as needed or directed. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing this technique, Tim. Happily using your techniques I learned from you in Cape May, NJ in 2019. Stay well.
The discipline in these images is phenomenal. Great work.
Appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
Thank you Tim, always look forward to your videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank You Uncle Tim. Always a pleasure to see how you work
Thank you Tim. I studied with you years ago at Triangle in Pittsburgh and can say that good technique never goes out of style. This has been a kinda review of what I learned from you years ago, something I still use today.
Glad to hear!!
Thank you Tim. We have a large group session coming up and this video answered ALL our concerns.
Cool. Use the largest modifier(s) you can, just out of camera view, the longest focal length you can and you should have a lovely "studio-like" look.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!
A pleasure! Just trying to save some folks from failed attempts.
Pure perfection!!
Thank you!
Great video and beautifully posed and set. I recently decided that larger groups on location are often much better shot in the environment, whatever it may be, than cut out against a pseudo-studio backdrop, because of the excess editing work required to tidy things up later. Learned that lesson the hard way.
Perfect I have a out door shot of a towing company with 9 big trucks and 20 people coming up I need all the help I can muster
Always aweome! Thank you tim!
Thanks for watching!
Tim, your video lighting and white balance is outstanding. Could you share a bit about how you achieved such a pleasant look? Thank you!
Thank you. This is nice. I wish I knew this last year when taking photos for a family reunion. However, I'll get a chance to try it within the next two weeks at another family event. I really like this!
Benches are a welcome addition to family portraits. Luv to meet ya one day, next year I'm attending shutter fest, do you attend that one?
Not really. I did over thirty years of big conventions. I don't enjoy traveling for work anymore.
I was invited to the last one to speak for the new levelup LVLUP Imahing, but it came kinda late so I didn't go.
Thanks for watching.
Do you do workshops? @@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques
Another great setup. What F-stops do you use in comparison with the ambient light. Brighter or dimmer than the ambient ?
Since the ambient is more "fixed" we use that exposure element as the base and add other lighting to it. I choose the shutter and aperture then often use power settings or placement to get the blend I want.
This is super helpful, thank you. Question though, I use ad200's and they don't go by f/stop, they go by power, like 1/128, 1/64, etc. How does that correlate to your f/8, f/11, etc? Also....how far away and back from the group are your lights? I have a group of 26 seniors I'm photographing on a dry desert lake bed during the golden hour. I've got 2 ad200s and an 860ii. Hoping this will be enough for fill light. How big are the softboxes here or what would you recommend? Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
If you're working against high level ambient light you may just have enough to do it. Depends on modifiers and distance.
When we use our Godox (and any other powerlight), digital feedback is initially all we need. Technically speaking, metering the existing light first, then adding the fill (or second light) to get an acceptable level, then adding in the main light (your 2nd AD200) to get your "key" light that gives shape and direction. Usually just 1 stop or less MORE than the fill.
If you're shy on power, large silver umbrellas will help. To make it nicer (better shadow edge transfer) use white, large softboxes or transl panels.
Hope this helps a little. SO many variables.
Great Video!
Thank you for the education on this.
Great video thank you so much!
Tim, I have an extended family group to photograph inside in their living room, with the large group being 12 people total... with the space provided, probably 3 rows: kids kneeling and some sitting on laps, row 2 sitting on sofa, row 3 standing behind sofa. I'm wondering what the best way to light the group would be.... (1) similar to this video, (2) main off axis with fill directly behind camera, or (3) a light on each side. The ceiling isn't that high so thinking of going with 40" shoot through umbrellas, as light spill isn't really a concern. I don't want boring flat light, but also don't want cross shadows or unflattering shadows.
Do you have a gear list? How big is the reflector? Is it white, silver, gold???? Thank you!
I haven't published one recently as I added speedlight portraits 3 yrs ago and LED portraits in this year. I always prefer white reflectprs from 32" to 6'. I do have assorted silver and gold for use less often. Thanks for watching.
Thanks, Tim - another great one. I don't understand how you're not getting light falloff between those closest to anf farthest from your two lights on your left. Is the reflector really picking up the slack? The result you achieved is beautiful!
You can do it. You're using the fall off created by the feathering of each light. You could measure it with a meter or view it by eye. Play with it. Positioning, pitch, distance and power all matter - but I've used this for decades on big groups since the days of 20+ person bridal parties.
@@TimKellysMasterPhotoTechniques Ugh... thanks, Tim. I remember those wedding parties too well! I've played with that setup a bit and the falloff wasn't nearly as bad as I imagined it would be. You're right - a bit of tweaking and we were there! Thanks as always. Have a blessed day.
Great video, Tim. Do you think a similar result will come up by using a 180 reflecting umbrella with three speedlites fixed on a Westcott bracket? In case if Strobes like Godox AD300 are not available, an the group will be no more than about 6-8 people? Greets Rainer
Did you use softboxes
How do you handle this when someone has glasses. The glasses are driving me nuts and I really hate having to take time to do shots without glasses for photoshop when trying to move quick with a family.
What is your take on having the fill on camera axis , why same side as main?
dunno about this in real world shoots. sure -- great lighting if you have time and pro models but groups like this with kids get impatient and antsy while setting this all up and adjusting light power and position etc. you will need an assistant. then there are break-out groups requiring new lighting set up. try this on a run-n-gun beach family shoot with wind -- good luck with that!
@@oxxxeee no not for the beach. I always have two assistants and everything is see and tested before bringing all the subjects in.
Not much changing of the light for sub groups.
Has worked for me. When I do beach shoots each of my guys are holding lights and moving as needed or directed.
Thanks for watching!