I have watches this video over and over to get the procedure right. It`s the most instructive video ever!Thank you so much Clear instructions, clear images, Excellent!
For anyone struggling getting those two bolts holding the manifold to the support bracket down low under the turbo, I manged to get them by kneeling on top of the engine facing the firewall, and getting a 3/8 cranked breaker bar in from the right going low under the coolant hoses. Not much wiggle room but enough to crack em loose. Is nice cos you can comfortably hold the socket square on the bolt with you left hand, and give it the beans with the right. GL
Great tips, was stucked since an hour, and took me 5 mns with your suggestion, many thanks ! And great video by the way ... may thaks as well Sharock23c
Glad i run across your video. I'm in the process of changing the oil cooler in the valley but wasn't sure how the turbo came out. This has been a tremendous help, thank you!!
VERY INFORMATIVE and to the point w/out the overtalking as most videos are. Not trying to be a blogger w excessive blabbering, direct and to the imperative point!! VERY appreciated, thank you for not BSn and like to hear the sound of your own babbling voice, really enjoyed the video and the way it was presented so again thank you very much!!!
x2. Straight to the point without a history lesson of who invented the turbo and the complicated engineering behind it. All we care about are the nuts and bolts!
Great video seriously, but if I may make one suggestion drop the rear of the lower suffrage, (once the exhaust is unhooked) use two floor jacks one in the front and one in the back in the Center only loosen the front ones take the back ones out all the way and let the floor jack down slowly . This will give you a few more inches of finger room I know that don't sound like a lot but even an inch is a hell of a lot and that tiny space I've discovered this works on a lot of vehicles it's also a great way to get the alternator changed on this vehicle that calls for 6 hours of Labor to change dropping the subframe only takes an hour and a half of Labor to change alternator after that
Great informational video.Anyone like myself about to tackle a job like this appreciate the time you've taken to make this video . You have made this job seem possible.I have one question if you dont mind.This may seem obvious but the lower o-ring of the charge tube, is it placed in the charge tube and the resonator pressed up against to be held there by the large "c-collar" or is the o-ring to first go over the top resonator tube,slipped into the bottom of the charge tube and finally "c collar". I can not get any info on this.There are no mech diagrams to illustrate its placement. Thanks once again.
Thank you for a great video. It has been very helpful. It was so good to SEE what I cannot and what things to move for access. Found a similar racket handle by TEKTON but I think yours is better. Continuing my search. Currently removing the exhaust manifold flange bolts. soaked them down yesterday. Thanks again
Omg thank you so much! I'm doing this at the moment and I can't see anything in that space next to the firewall. Without this, it'd be a complete guessing game. Thanks again!
Great informative tutorial. Really shines the light on them. Awkward bugger torx bolts. I have just removed and silver soldered my offside exhaust manifold. Right hand drive U.K. looks like a good repair. I shall be rebuilding shortly. Undoing these bolts make sure to get that socket square on. To minimalise shearing/rounding off those torx bolts. They are tight so be careful. Good luck guys. 👍🏼✌🏻🤩🏴🇺🇸🍷👊🗽😎🥰
One great trick is to put a little bit of valve lapping compound on the head of the bolt. It really gets the socket to hang on. Even after the head is stripped out.
Not tried valve lapping compound (we call it valve grinding paste in U.K. the coarse is gritty). But I’ll bear it in mind thanks butty. Just don’t get any type of grinding paste near any moving parts. 😮 It will kill em. It’s a real awkward project/repair especially for a short ass like me. I’ve built my self a wooden cross brace so’s I can work over the top of the engine. To minimise the risk of damaging anything whilst I am suspended over the front of the engine. Modern engine’s are intensionally hard to work on. That’s why the manufacturers make so much money out of the working class. $€£🤬
Thanks for the upload brother, trying help a neighbour, with the turbo in those two bracket to manifold bolts aint budging atm, a view of what that bracket is sure helps. Im thinking either another bar or cut the bracket somehow is the answer. Thanks again and alb D
Thanks for the video. Working on a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD right now and was wondering the best way to approach this. Your video is very helpful if you have never done this before. The bolts are all a pain in the a$$ to remove. There is not a lot of room as you explained. I'll let you know how it comes out.
Patience and the correct sockets. I cannot believe how many different type of fasteners are used to hold everything together. Allen keys, e-torx, torx, metric head bolts, variations of size for each type, etc. I had 4 socket sets out just to change my fuel filter...I couldn't stop laughing when I found the 5 mm allen key clutching the fuel filter after removing all of the other styles of fasteners. Brackets to hold brackets...it's maddening.
If there is any chance you are in Calgary too, I'd sure like to drop a little thanks package. I've watched your 3 videos a lot this past cold winter when I was in the garage tracing bad glow plugs, getting the turbo off and ended up tricking my ECM for a failed swirl valve motor with a resistor to get it out of limp mode. With warmer weather now I'm planning to tear down to the intakes and do the proper cleaning for my Jeep. Just wanted to say thanks and let me know if you ever have time for a quick phone call.
Excellent video. Like others, I'm finding this very informative for a current oil cooler seal replacement. One question, at 8:20 you mention loosening off the coolant pipe to get at the lower turbo turbine side nut off; how did you loosen that off? I can't quite feel what type of connector it is on the driver's side. Subscribed, cheers and thanks
+sharock23c Sir. Thanks for the reply and help. After spending the entire weekend and most of today I was able to get it out. I bought every striped bolt extractor socket I could find. None of them worked. I then bought a small hammer and was able to hammer on an E12 socket on the bolt. I was able to fit my arm around the EGR with the hammer and hold the socket from the top with the other. I then got a ratchet on it and pulled it from underneath the jeep. This has been the most painful project I have ever done. I would be lost without this video. Thanks again. Cheers. Mike.
Hello mate long shot as this video was long time ago how important is it to line the two cat tabs up with large clamps I have put two brand new units on now as I had a screaming noise on the new u it is now on second one but I haven’t lined two tabs up and geting that same sound again I am Assuming watching this video Mabe leaking via there now can’t be both new units doing this also the top clamp doesn’t look closed enough to Me we’re do the lines have to line up one the turbo L shape pipe thanks
Hey sharock23x - well done on the video - quick question if you're still out there: the 3 studs on the back of the turbo that hold the exit pipe on, the bottom one appears to be spinning(nut not backing off), is it possible to disassemble the turbo from the front to access the stud from inside? Or am I facked? Obviously it's impossible to cut that bottom nut off. Hope you have some insight.Thanks.
Fantastic video, and good choice of music as well...we must be around the same age. I think I heard Calgary in the video - I'm from Saskatoon. Where did you end up sourcing your turbo? Thanks again for this video, the mock up on the bench is priceless.
+RJHegedus So I checked out a few place. But the best one was Alamo Turbo in Calgary for me. I was quoted 2500 for the turbo, complete with the electronic actuator already installed and calibrated. Rock auto has Remanufactured turbos form rotomasters but I don't know how good they are.
+sharock23c Ouch, that's pricey. I've been looking around and the best two I can find are: IDparts.com (new turbo w/actuator) $1150usd xsboostturbochargers.com (reman w/actuator) $925 minus $125core usd. They also sell just the actuators. Anyways, thanks again.
I'm not sure if the actuator has to be calibrated on these particular engines if removed from the turbo or replaced. I know on the 15L Cummins ISX eng we change just the actuator all the time but then we have to calibrate the new actuator to that turbo or it will throw various faults. That's why I went with the preinstalled actuator. Just a heads up.
+sharock23c Everything I've read leads me to believe that as long as you get an actuator with the same "G" number, ie, G-88, then you won't need to re-calibrate. Only time will tell I suppose - I'm still troubleshooting mine to figure out what route to go. Thanks for the info though.
+sharock23c Well I went with the IDParts turbo...cost about $1850 after CAD exchange rate, shipping and duties. This is a new Garrett turbo with actuator. Will let you know how the replacement goes when it shows up.
Hey, thank you for this great video! But I've got one major problem: I need this tool you used at 13:46 to reach the screws. It seems to be a special tool. Where can i buy it????
Rainbow Dash. The ratchet I used at 13:46 is a swivel head bent handle spark plug ratchet i got at Canadian tire. And the socket is a inverted torx or also called an E-torx some times. Most auto tool places should have the torx. The ratchet with the handle bent that way might be a little tricky to find.
Nice video, how come you ended up having to replace the turbo charger, what were the symptoms of any issues you had. What mileage is your Jeep on? I've posted a couple of issues I've previously had with mine if you wish to look.
+iVlog, So this jeep never had any symptoms. The intake pipe to the turbo was removed to change the fuel filter and when the pipe was pulled off it was noticed that the compressor wheel fins were damaged. The only reason I could find was that on the turbo inlet pipe there is a red silicone gasket between the pipe and turbo compressor inlet housing. It looks that at some point the pipe was stuffed on and this silicone seal had tore and a chunk of it came off and went through the turbo. There is supposed to be an updated turbo inlet pipe but I have to look into it.
+sharock23c I had the exact same thing happen to my 3.0 CRD Commander, seal burst, split the Air pipe and nicked the fins. This is the alternative pipe I just fitted, it has a black seal instead of the red one. Still looking for a Turbo, hard to find here in Australia. www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-53013672AE-Air-Cleaner-to-Turbo-Charger-Air-Intake-Hose-for-Jeep-Diesel-New-/311489067072
Typical problem. I found the same issue when I did some work on mine. Had to go to a MB dealer to get the new rubber seal. Now, I'm going to get the turbo rebuilt and found this video explaining removal.
Sir. Amazing video. I truly appreciate it. Any chance you could give me some advice on how to remove one of the e12 bolts that go into the back of the turbo to the mounting bracket. There are two of them right next to each other and I rounded one of them. I can't figure out a way to get it out. Last bolt to remove this turbo.
You might be able to get a bolt extractor socket on it but I found that if the bolt is that tight that it rounds off the extractor socket doesn't help much. Your best bet is probably to cut off the head of the bolt off with a tiny die grinder and then once the turbo is out extract the remaining piece of the bolt. You could also weld a nut onto the bolt and then turn it out with a regular socket. It will be tricky with how much room there is to work with.
I don't know if someone could answer to me. How do you remove the bolts that hold the pipe between the exhaust and the turbo. There's no place to do that. I use a lot of degreaser but I can't get it to release. And I don't know how to access the bottom bolt. If there is somebody who could help... Thanks a lot!
Hope you're still reading these, how the hell did you get at that lower turbine side bolt? I've worked out it's a 13 mm socket but just cannot get in there.
It depends on how bad its damaged. if the compressor housing is damaged then the whole turbo should be changed, otherwise you can just change the compressor wheel. The tricky part is actually finding a wheel and this being a variable geometry turbo makes them harder to rebuild. If you don't have experience in rebuilding these types of turbo I would stay away from it and just replace it. What you can do is get a cartridge kit which is the center section and the turbine and compressor already assembled. then you install the turbine and compressor housings off of the old turbo.
The short answer is don't buy a diesel jeep. Trucks is one thing if your hauling 15,000 lbs or more but I think it's pointless in this thing. Now like most diesels, most of the parts are quite expensive, The turbo assy from the dealer is $7800 (That what I got quoted just for parts). Injectors around 750 each and so on. Unless your a diesel mechanic I would stay away from them. This jeep in particular has had nothing but problems. ECM failed at 86,000 km. TCM failed al 150,000km. Various glow plugs and glow plug controll module. The 4 wheel drive actuator that shifts it into 4x4 low quit (and it's "trail rated" that has never been on a trail I only use 4 low to drive it up the rams when I do the oil change.). The front drive shaft CV joint from the transfer case to diff went twice. From the dealer you must.buy the entire drive shaft. Fuel tank rotted out so put a whole tank in it. Various oxygen sensors. And a handful of other piddly things. In the end I will never buy another diesel jeep. They are too expensive to fix if your not a mechanic and this jeep always has something breaking on it.
My wife and I bought a 2008 crd new in 2009. We still have it. So far the worst thing until recently was the motherboard fucked up about 3 years ago.... it would randomly just turn off, That really sucked on the hi-way. Cost us about $1200 to fix at the dealership. Most of the repairs to date I have done myself. Anything you need to get done at the dealership is insanely expensive. But most of the repairs have been easy. Glow plugs... easy.... the swirl motor got fucked, I did the by-pass.... was easy. Lately, there is a nagging oil leak.... dealership said it was the rear main seal, more than I can handle. so they changed it... there's still an oil leak. Now they say it's the turbo or turbo housing. So far for us, we have about $3200 in repairs in 10 years. I'll be fixing the remaining oil leak when the weather gets better. To be honest we really like our jeep, it's a great ride...good fuel eco, but Basically what Martin said is true... if you are not a bit mechanically inclined or you don't know a good mechanic you should probably avoid. If you don't care about repair costs....or you can fix things yourself... I think they are worth having.
@@thesarcasticangrydud the dealership took you for a ride. The 07 - 08 have a notorious oil cooler leak that looks like a rear main seal leak. They should have known that. It is not for the faint hearted and will cost over $3000 if you are lucky.
Damn jeep engineers. Did they never think that the turbo might need replacing? Why did they use torx bolts? The more I work on modern cars the more I hate them. Good video though. Job well done.
(the bots you show on 23:03 ) you dont show how you remove it and you dont show how you but it back on with what type of tool did you do it ?, i'm struggling there a little bit to get the 3rd one.
I have watches this video over and over to get the procedure right. It`s the most instructive video ever!Thank you so much Clear instructions, clear images, Excellent!
For anyone struggling getting those two bolts holding the manifold to the support bracket down low under the turbo, I manged to get them by kneeling on top of the engine facing the firewall, and getting a 3/8 cranked breaker bar in from the right going low under the coolant hoses. Not much wiggle room but enough to crack em loose. Is nice cos you can comfortably hold the socket square on the bolt with you left hand, and give it the beans with the right.
GL
Great tips, was stucked since an hour, and took me 5 mns with your suggestion, many thanks ! And great video by the way ... may thaks as well Sharock23c
Glad i run across your video. I'm in the process of changing the oil cooler in the valley but wasn't sure how the turbo came out. This has been a tremendous help, thank you!!
VERY INFORMATIVE and to the point w/out the overtalking as most videos are. Not trying to be a blogger w excessive blabbering, direct and to the imperative point!! VERY appreciated, thank you for not BSn and like to hear the sound of your own babbling voice, really enjoyed the video and the way it was presented so again thank you very much!!!
x2. Straight to the point without a history lesson of who invented the turbo and the complicated engineering behind it. All we care about are the nuts and bolts!
This video is pure gold!! It answers ALL the questions!!! Thank you very much!!!!
Great video seriously, but if I may make one suggestion drop the rear of the lower suffrage, (once the exhaust is unhooked) use two floor jacks one in the front and one in the back in the Center only loosen the front ones take the back ones out all the way and let the floor jack down slowly . This will give you a few more inches of finger room I know that don't sound like a lot but even an inch is a hell of a lot and that tiny space I've discovered this works on a lot of vehicles it's also a great way to get the alternator changed on this vehicle that calls for 6 hours of Labor to change dropping the subframe only takes an hour and a half of Labor to change alternator after that
Great informational video.Anyone like myself about to tackle a job like this appreciate the time you've taken to make this video . You have made this job seem possible.I have one question if you dont mind.This may seem obvious but the lower o-ring of the charge tube, is it placed in the charge tube and the resonator pressed up against to be held there by the large "c-collar" or is the o-ring to first go over the top resonator tube,slipped into the bottom of the charge tube and finally "c collar". I can not get any info on this.There are no mech diagrams to illustrate its placement. Thanks once again.
Thank you for a great video. It has been very helpful. It was so good to SEE what I cannot and what things to move for access. Found a similar racket handle by TEKTON but I think yours is better. Continuing my search. Currently removing the exhaust manifold flange bolts. soaked them down yesterday. Thanks again
Omg thank you so much! I'm doing this at the moment and I can't see anything in that space next to the firewall. Without this, it'd be a complete guessing game. Thanks again!
Very instructive. Real great camera takes
Great video on this, I also liked the “Canadian content” soundtrack. Just had to do this for oil cooler seal R&R
Great Details, you can tell you've done a few of these. Thank you for sharing
Installation of the in-let turbo pipe is also very clear.
Great informative tutorial. Really shines the light on them. Awkward bugger torx bolts. I have just removed and silver soldered my offside exhaust manifold. Right hand drive U.K. looks like a good repair. I shall be rebuilding shortly. Undoing these bolts make sure to get that socket square on. To minimalise shearing/rounding off those torx bolts. They are tight so be careful. Good luck guys. 👍🏼✌🏻🤩🏴🇺🇸🍷👊🗽😎🥰
One great trick is to put a little bit of valve lapping compound on the head of the bolt. It really gets the socket to hang on. Even after the head is stripped out.
Not tried valve lapping compound (we call it valve grinding paste in U.K. the coarse is gritty). But I’ll bear it in mind thanks butty. Just don’t get any type of grinding paste near any moving parts. 😮 It will kill em. It’s a real awkward project/repair especially for a short ass like me. I’ve built my self a wooden cross brace so’s I can work over the top of the engine. To minimise the risk of damaging anything whilst I am suspended over the front of the engine. Modern engine’s are intensionally hard to work on. That’s why the manufacturers make so much money out of the working class. $€£🤬
You did a great job explaining everything. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the upload brother, trying help a neighbour, with the turbo in those two bracket to manifold bolts aint budging atm, a view of what that bracket is sure helps. Im thinking either another bar or cut the bracket somehow is the answer. Thanks again and alb D
Best instruction video ever. So helpful. Thank you very much for posting this video.
What exactly is the purpose of the DOC?
Me too can i delete it ?
Thanks for the video. Working on a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee CRD right now and was wondering the best way to approach this. Your video is very helpful if you have never done this before. The bolts are all a pain in the a$$ to remove. There is not a lot of room as you explained. I'll let you know how it comes out.
Patience and the correct sockets. I cannot believe how many different type of fasteners are used to hold everything together. Allen keys, e-torx, torx, metric head bolts, variations of size for each type, etc. I had 4 socket sets out just to change my fuel filter...I couldn't stop laughing when I found the 5 mm allen key clutching the fuel filter after removing all of the other styles of fasteners. Brackets to hold brackets...it's maddening.
If there is any chance you are in Calgary too, I'd sure like to drop a little thanks package. I've watched your 3 videos a lot this past cold winter when I was in the garage tracing bad glow plugs, getting the turbo off and ended up tricking my ECM for a failed swirl valve motor with a resistor to get it out of limp mode. With warmer weather now I'm planning to tear down to the intakes and do the proper cleaning for my Jeep. Just wanted to say thanks and let me know if you ever have time for a quick phone call.
You do very fine work on a rather difficult task and a good explanation.
Absolutely thanks a lot for this valuable video. It's great.
Excellent video. Like others, I'm finding this very informative for a current oil cooler seal replacement. One question, at 8:20 you mention loosening off the coolant pipe to get at the lower turbo turbine side nut off; how did you loosen that off? I can't quite feel what type of connector it is on the driver's side. Subscribed, cheers and thanks
Great job...probably one of the best video on youtube. Thanks
Thank you for a great video. It has been very helpful.
Amazing video and explanation! Just a question do I need to put that cross member back in
Very good instructions on how to do this job !
Great ! so much thanks!
+sharock23c Sir. Thanks for the reply and help. After spending the entire weekend and most of today I was able to get it out. I bought every striped bolt extractor socket I could find. None of them worked. I then bought a small hammer and was able to hammer on an E12 socket on the bolt. I was able to fit my arm around the EGR with the hammer and hold the socket from the top with the other. I then got a ratchet on it and pulled it from underneath the jeep. This has been the most painful project I have ever done. I would be lost without this video. Thanks again. Cheers. Mike.
excellent documentation.
Fantastic video, it has convinced me I don't want to take this on. many thanks.
Hello mate long shot as this video was long time ago how important is it to line the two cat tabs up with large clamps I have put two brand new units on now as I had a screaming noise on the new u it is now on second one but I haven’t lined two tabs up and geting that same sound again I am
Assuming watching this video Mabe leaking via there now can’t be both new units doing this also the top clamp doesn’t look closed enough to
Me we’re do the lines have to line up one the turbo L shape pipe thanks
Hey sharock23x - well done on the video - quick question if you're still out there: the 3 studs on the back of the turbo that hold the exit pipe on, the bottom one appears to be spinning(nut not backing off), is it possible to disassemble the turbo from the front to access the stud from inside? Or am I facked? Obviously it's impossible to cut that bottom nut off. Hope you have some insight.Thanks.
IDS Parts sells this turbo for $1250 ish OEM brand new with the actuator.
Fantastic video, and good choice of music as well...we must be around the same age. I think I heard Calgary in the video - I'm from Saskatoon. Where did you end up sourcing your turbo? Thanks again for this video, the mock up on the bench is priceless.
+RJHegedus So I checked out a few place. But the best one was Alamo Turbo in Calgary for me. I was quoted 2500 for the turbo, complete with the electronic actuator already installed and calibrated. Rock auto has Remanufactured turbos form rotomasters but I don't know how good they are.
+sharock23c Ouch, that's pricey. I've been looking around and the best two I can find are:
IDparts.com (new turbo w/actuator) $1150usd
xsboostturbochargers.com (reman w/actuator) $925 minus $125core usd. They also sell just the actuators.
Anyways, thanks again.
I'm not sure if the actuator has to be calibrated on these particular engines if removed from the turbo or replaced. I know on the 15L Cummins ISX eng we change just the actuator all the time but then we have to calibrate the new actuator to that turbo or it will throw various faults. That's why I went with the preinstalled actuator. Just a heads up.
+sharock23c Everything I've read leads me to believe that as long as you get an actuator with the same "G" number, ie, G-88, then you won't need to re-calibrate. Only time will tell I suppose - I'm still troubleshooting mine to figure out what route to go. Thanks for the info though.
+sharock23c Well I went with the IDParts turbo...cost about $1850 after CAD exchange rate, shipping and duties. This is a new Garrett turbo with actuator. Will let you know how the replacement goes when it shows up.
great video. thanks again
You could eat off of that engine, it’s so clean.
Thanks for the good video!
Hello, can you tell how you removed this 3 bolts from turbo ? l cant do it
Any video on the 2014 grand cherokee with the 3.0 diesel? Similar turbo but different set up om the engine
Hey, thank you for this great video!
But I've got one major problem: I need this tool you used at 13:46 to reach the screws. It seems to be a special tool. Where can i buy it????
Rainbow Dash. The ratchet I used at 13:46 is a swivel head bent handle spark plug ratchet i got at Canadian tire. And the socket is a inverted torx or also called an E-torx some times. Most auto tool places should have the torx. The ratchet with the handle bent that way might be a little tricky to find.
Tank you very much!!! I will try to get that one.
WHAT SIZE IS THE SWIVEL HEAD RATCHET.ANY ONE KNOW
Hey. I was just wondering what that hose with the stopper in it was for at 6:12
It was the crankcase breather line vent.
@@sharock23c oh ok thanks
Nice video, how come you ended up having to replace the turbo charger, what were the symptoms of any issues you had.
What mileage is your Jeep on?
I've posted a couple of issues I've previously had with mine if you wish to look.
+iVlog, So this jeep never had any symptoms. The intake pipe to the turbo was removed to change the fuel filter and when the pipe was pulled off it was noticed that the compressor wheel fins were damaged. The only reason I could find was that on the turbo inlet pipe there is a red silicone gasket between the pipe and turbo compressor inlet housing. It looks that at some point the pipe was stuffed on and this silicone seal had tore and a chunk of it came off and went through the turbo. There is supposed to be an updated turbo inlet pipe but I have to look into it.
+sharock23c I had the exact same thing happen to my 3.0 CRD Commander, seal burst, split the Air pipe and nicked the fins. This is the alternative pipe I just fitted, it has a black seal instead of the red one. Still looking for a Turbo, hard to find here in Australia. www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-53013672AE-Air-Cleaner-to-Turbo-Charger-Air-Intake-Hose-for-Jeep-Diesel-New-/311489067072
+sharock23c how is your Jeep running after replacing the turbo?
+iVlog Runs good. Had zero issues after the install.
Typical problem. I found the same issue when I did some work on mine. Had to go to a MB dealer to get the new rubber seal. Now, I'm going to get the turbo rebuilt and found this video explaining removal.
WOW, thank you so much!!
Sir. Amazing video. I truly appreciate it. Any chance you could give me some advice on how to remove one of the e12 bolts that go into the back of the turbo to the mounting bracket. There are two of them right next to each other and I rounded one of them. I can't figure out a way to get it out. Last bolt to remove this turbo.
You might be able to get a bolt extractor socket on it but I found that if the bolt is that tight that it rounds off the extractor socket doesn't help much. Your best bet is probably to cut off the head of the bolt off with a tiny die grinder and then once the turbo is out extract the remaining piece of the bolt. You could also weld a nut onto the bolt and then turn it out with a regular socket. It will be tricky with how much room there is to work with.
Blokes a bloody genious, if I want my turbo changed whats his number?
Could you recommend a good place to get a Turbo cartridge for this turbo?
H Siu hug
Vcyngkgk
Did you ever change the swirl motor?
Did you notice a performance difference from the newer turbo? Also did you have to upgrade your inner cooler?
Sorry just saw in the description that you used the 2056. I found a guy that modifies a 2260 to fit.
I don't know if someone could answer to me. How do you remove the bolts that hold the pipe between the exhaust and the turbo.
There's no place to do that. I use a lot of degreaser but I can't get it to release.
And I don't know how to access the bottom bolt.
If there is somebody who could help... Thanks a lot!
the 3x 13mm bolts on the back of the turbo exhaust housing? Just a regular 13mm ring spanner about 15-20cm long was pretty straightforward for me.
отличное видео . Автор просто молодец... ++++++++ Спасибо !!!
Hope you're still reading these, how the hell did you get at that lower turbine side bolt? I've worked out it's a 13 mm socket but just cannot get in there.
This is where I am stuck currently....
the ring would go on the resonator first and then the pipe installed.
My jeep's turbo compressor wheel fins were ripped apart does in mean i need a new turbo or can i just replied the wheel fins ?
It depends on how bad its damaged. if the compressor housing is damaged then the whole turbo should be changed, otherwise you can just change the compressor wheel. The tricky part is actually finding a wheel and this being a variable geometry turbo makes them harder to rebuild. If you don't have experience in rebuilding these types of turbo I would stay away from it and just replace it. What you can do is get a cartridge kit which is the center section and the turbine and compressor already assembled. then you install the turbine and compressor housings off of the old turbo.
I was looking at these Jeeps with the diesel motor I was wondering if they were a good and reliable Jeep could you help out
The short answer is don't buy a diesel jeep. Trucks is one thing if your hauling 15,000 lbs or more but I think it's pointless in this thing. Now like most diesels, most of the parts are quite expensive, The turbo assy from the dealer is $7800 (That what I got quoted just for parts). Injectors around 750 each and so on. Unless your a diesel mechanic I would stay away from them. This jeep in particular has had nothing but problems. ECM failed at 86,000 km. TCM failed al 150,000km. Various glow plugs and glow plug controll module. The 4 wheel drive actuator that shifts it into 4x4 low quit (and it's "trail rated" that has never been on a trail I only use 4 low to drive it up the rams when I do the oil change.). The front drive shaft CV joint from the transfer case to diff went twice. From the dealer you must.buy the entire drive shaft. Fuel tank rotted out so put a whole tank in it. Various oxygen sensors. And a handful of other piddly things. In the end I will never buy another diesel jeep. They are too expensive to fix if your not a mechanic and this jeep always has something breaking on it.
My wife and I bought a 2008 crd new in 2009. We still have it. So far the worst thing until recently was the motherboard fucked up about 3 years ago.... it would randomly just turn off, That really sucked on the hi-way. Cost us about $1200 to fix at the dealership. Most of the repairs to date I have done myself. Anything you need to get done at the dealership is insanely expensive. But most of the repairs have been easy. Glow plugs... easy.... the swirl motor got fucked, I did the by-pass.... was easy. Lately, there is a nagging oil leak.... dealership said it was the rear main seal, more than I can handle. so they changed it... there's still an oil leak. Now they say it's the turbo or turbo housing. So far for us, we have about $3200 in repairs in 10 years. I'll be fixing the remaining oil leak when the weather gets better. To be honest we really like our jeep, it's a great ride...good fuel eco, but Basically what Martin said is true... if you are not a bit mechanically inclined or you don't know a good mechanic you should probably avoid. If you don't care about repair costs....or you can fix things yourself... I think they are worth having.
@@thesarcasticangrydud the dealership took you for a ride. The 07 - 08 have a notorious oil cooler leak that looks like a rear main seal leak. They should have known that. It is not for the faint hearted and will cost over $3000 if you are lucky.
Damn jeep engineers. Did they never think that the turbo might need replacing? Why did they use torx bolts? The more I work on modern cars the more I hate them. Good video though. Job well done.
Always expect torx on European parts
I have a 2008 diesel. I'm getting a whining noise from under hood,when I rev engine on under acceleration.possible turbo failing?
Possible. Check power steering pump. They can make a loud whine if they have been run low on oil.
@@sharock23c ok.ill check
So they can whine even if not turning wheel?
Checked fluid.fluid is present but a very strong burned odor
Yes. The pump gears can wear a bit and they can whine all the time.
(the bots you show on 23:03 ) you dont show how you remove it and you dont show how you but it back on with what type of tool did you do it ?, i'm struggling there a little bit to get the 3rd one.
+Sebastian Stander bolts
+Sebastian Stander nuts haha sorry
dizz nuts
I just used a swivel head ratchet and a deep socket and a really short extension.
good video can you come to the UK and do mine having alsorts of probs
Отличное видео , автор МОЛОДЕЦ....
Thanks
Would you be willing to do this work on our Jeep?
+DieselFitter. Sorry I don't have enough time to do any work. But if you got any question ill do my best to answer them.
WHAT SIZE IS THE SWIVEL HEAD RATCHET. 1/4INCH 3/4 OR 1/2.THANK YOU
T 0:08 "Srurounding component removal" 🙄
😓
Just to take the bar off. That's rediculous. Leave it off.
Nice Video. Many thanx.