I didn’t want to tap into the headlight wiring. I was hoping to avoid adding an extra load to the wires and fuses that might cause issues with the performance of the headlight or strain the wires or even burn the fuse. That’s why I ran a separate line. I don’t think it took much effort to do it the way I did. Was there something I should have explained better or shown more clearly ?
Oh I just noticed you said “tail light”. I guess that could also work. But it’s gonna be adding double the load the wires / fuses were intended for. Prob not a safe thing to do.
@@chicocop4774 hmm. I heard the factory tail light sockets are the exact same as the front, with the addition of the third wire for running lights. I was thinking of tapping into either the existing tail light harness, or the factory empty auxiliary plug near the headlight
Yes bro you just hv to change the internal metal socket from 1156 to 1157. Use back the original 1156 plastic socket. You just hv to cut the original power socket and solder it back to the new one unless you buy a separate socket online and solder it.
I have a Gen 1 as well and installing the same switchback system. Are you connecting both positives together and connect to your remote turn on line to the fuse box? Thanks.
Great question. Sorry I was t more clear. I’ll try and explain and it’s not simple enough I might ad a vid to explain So if you remember. Each side signals have their own negative and signal positive wires. So I used each side for their own. The. I added a pos line from the fuse block for running lights
@@chicocop4774 Got it, so you ran both sides of the running lines together into the fuse box and tied the signals to the hot wire on the factory harness?
Bro...rather than soldering that blade connectors,why don't you just solder back the original connectors so that you won't need to cut the original socket as well I did the same to my busa and it works perfectly. I hate cutting and throwing away original wires or socket. I always like to make a pnp adaptors so that I don't hv to mess with the original sockets.
The wires that lead to the front signal light have a pos ans neg for only signaling. Only extra Wire you need is the running light. Look at your fuse box ans find a wire that’s juiced only when the bike it on, that can be your running light
Looks great, Bro!
What headlights are you running
Good afternoon
Lo barato sale caro!!! Carisimo. En otras ocaciones si esta bien hecho sale bueno😂😂😂
Sweet bro, how hard do you think it would be to use the factory tail light sockets up front for running lights?
I didn’t want to tap into the headlight wiring. I was hoping to avoid adding an extra load to the wires and fuses that might cause issues with the performance of the headlight or strain the wires or even burn the fuse. That’s why I ran a separate line. I don’t think it took much effort to do it the way I did. Was there something I should have explained better or shown more clearly ?
Oh I just noticed you said “tail light”. I guess that could also work. But it’s gonna be adding double the load the wires / fuses were intended for. Prob not a safe thing to do.
@@chicocop4774 hmm. I heard the factory tail light sockets are the exact same as the front, with the addition of the third wire for running lights. I was thinking of tapping into either the existing tail light harness, or the factory empty auxiliary plug near the headlight
Hey, which model bulbs did you use , 1157 or 1156?? And did you have to change the factory bulb sockets to a different model to fit ??
I’m sorry. I don’t remember
Yes bro you just hv to change the internal metal socket from 1156 to 1157. Use back the original 1156 plastic socket. You just hv to cut the original power socket and solder it back to the new one unless you buy a separate socket online and solder it.
Curious, it’s been a year. Do the resisters, lights get hot? How is the life of the lights, still going?
They are still running great
I don't use any resistors but i changed the relays to the LED type flasher.
What about the back?
I did ad some extra lights on my bike but not switch back related
Will these work for 2020 hayabusa?
I don’t know. I doubt it.
@@chicocop4774 thank you sir
What type of bulb is the 2020 using?
I have a Gen 1 as well and installing the same switchback system. Are you connecting both positives together and connect to your remote turn on line to the fuse box? Thanks.
Great question. Sorry I was t more clear. I’ll try and explain and it’s not simple enough I might ad a vid to explain
So if you remember. Each side signals have their own negative and signal positive wires. So I used each side for their own. The. I added a pos line from the fuse block for running lights
@@chicocop4774 Got it, so you ran both sides of the running lines together into the fuse box and tied the signals to the hot wire on the factory harness?
Dr. Dana Davis yes both signals are connected to stock wires but the running light is going from the fuse block (positive line) left and right
See the vid around 11 min in. I show the wire coming from fuse block
Bro...rather than soldering that blade connectors,why don't you just solder back the original connectors so that you won't need to cut the original socket as well
I did the same to my busa and it works perfectly.
I hate cutting and throwing away original wires or socket. I always like to make a pnp adaptors so that I don't hv to mess with the original sockets.
Great. I’ll try that if I ever do it again. Thanks
Still trying to figure out what wires goes to what bro
The wires that lead to the front signal light have a pos ans neg for only signaling. Only extra Wire you need is the running light. Look at your fuse box ans find a wire that’s juiced only when the bike it on, that can be your running light
Got ya for both sides so that’s when the mini add a circuit comes into play for both sides thanks
Last question as for the ground what would be the best bet to connect it to are just leave it in the housing??
@@ebooibo34 I used the ground wire from original flasher (I think).
@@chicocop4774 so just connect from the fuse box to the positive wire, correct