You produce the best product videos I've seen. You focus on the work, which makes it easy to follow along while trying to figure out what to do next. Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much, with your videos I think I will start with the assembly of the mmu3 for my MK4, 1 month ago I received the box, but I have not even opened it, since I assembled the mk4 kit, I have no desire to assemble anything else.
I suggest building and tuning a Voron as building-detox in-between. Afterwards everything else will feel like a breeze again... ...a friend told me! :D
Be sure to clean out very thoroughly any metal particles from drilling out the pneumatic connectors. Particles like that would be perfect for clogging the nozzle if they hitch a ride on the filament.
That's a very interesting custom buffer solution. Definitely looks easier to load. I'm still using the default buffer on the right of my printer, but I have the filament mounted above the printer in a repbox. That filament then exits the box down the backside near the wall and into the buffer. I've been thinking about wall mounting the buffer behind the printer instead of in it's default right side, but the buffer itself isn't all that much space.
Great job and inspiration! Thank you so much! I am too trying to figure out, how to have less space consumed by mmu3. I have Ikea Skadis next to printer, so I probably made whole buffer + spool setup hanging on skadis.
With PLA and PET-G, and Im sure most other materials, you don't necessarily need threaded holes. If the hole is properly sized a standard machine screw will tap the hole. Granted a self tapping screw will be easier to start in the hole.
I hear ya on getting the hardware parts kits from Amazon. Going vertical is a good idea. I've found when drilling in plastic, go slow to reduce heating and softening. Maybe check out my quick informal videos on what I did. I’ve since used the whole ping pong table with an easier to use setup, will probably make a part four on that. This buffer idea is great with the switchable threading guide around the wheel. My situation is hobby only so is different than your work use. I also like your XL videos 🙂
Very interesting setup.. but how did the printing go in the end? Did you have any issues? Would love to see a followup on this video. This setup might eventually make me get an mmu3 as well. Good work!
Yes I need to post more using it. I'm still having a little trouble getting MMU3 to accept the filament when I load it. I need to mess with my tension more. But it's working so far. Thanks!
Just throwing out ideas here.... Wonder if the mechanism can be adapted to the existing 'cartridge' on the mmu3 buffer. I have my buffer inside the lackv2 and the loading design looks so much easier to use!
I have a mk4 in a Prusa enclosure. The enclosure is not MMU3 friendly and requires the buffer to be placed externally, either on the top or hung on the side (which creates more problems). With the buffer placed externally, the provided PTFE tubes are too short and causes excessive bending which results in filament binding and load failures. The obvious solution is to use longer tubes but I have a recollection of reading somewhere that there is a tube length limit of 380mm. What is the length of the PTFE tubes in your arrangement? I am very tempted to print the buffers described in your video. It's well done with clear and efficient delivery of the information.
The tubes I used were the stock ones. I think it helped that I mounted the buffer on the wall behind. They wouldn't reach to the shelf. I believe Prusa says they are 650mm. I haven't looked but maybe you could buy longer ones from Prusa? Thanks!
cool setup. looks like a ton of work- is it worth it? we need a follow up video after a few different projects to know if this works as well as desired
If you want a Prusa and don't want the footprint, I think it's a great solution. But after the time of building the MMU3 etc, I'm leaning towards the convenience of the Bambu for the majority of my printers.
You could stack the long pieces next to each other than against wall and the rolls above could be stacked above ie 3 bottom row and 2 top row so you quite easily get it get it witching printer footprint.
I don't understand why Prusa hasn't come up with their own version to make it more compact. They need an mmu the size of bambu or creality to compete. Well done doing this video, please show a follow up with it working.
Heh... It's a different design, in most tests it is faster, less wasteful and more reliable than competitors... at least the MMU3 version is. But it does require a lot of extra space, partly because their solution requires a buffer. Also, loading it is a major PITA, again thanks to the buffer. This alternative buffer solves that problem nicely. Personally I think I am going to do away with the buffer completely. All the buffer does is provide a place for retracted filament to go, without fouling up the spool. My current thought is to have 4 spool holders in a dry box, with room for retracted filament, and a small "flipper" lightly pressing on the filament where it exits the spool, to prevent buffered filament from rolling back or loosening the filament loops on the spool. That box can hold my most often used filaments. The 5th spool will be a wildcard filament that goes next to the MMU on the frame for fast swapping. It can run into the 5th MMU port, or be used directly in the print head (with MMU turned off, and sliced for vanilla Mk4, of course).
Thanks for a great video, this looks really neat! I just assembled my MMU3 and am a bit disappointed in what space hog it is, and how unadjusted it is to be used with enclosures, so am looking for alternative setups. Do you think those buffer elements would work ok if they were positioned horizontally below the spool holders?
That’s a much nicer setup, congrats! One question I have - it seems like the wheels have quite a bit of friction. Even though they have a bearing in the middle, they only move when you manually spin them. Is that rotating freely enough that it doesn’t cause problems for the MMU3 to pull the filament through?
That's a good question. I think if I was to print again I wouldn't use the Galaxy PLA. I feel like it has just a little bit of texture. And you really want them as smooth as possible. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting I think the non recycled one are like that too. Hopefully the will sort it (I guess it’s a cost benefit analysis issue - cost to modify machine to make it pretty For consumers)…
@@tada3dprinting Nah. I'm a long time electrical engineer and have designed and used many battery-operated devices. While a bit tasteless, it's anything BUT dangerous the way you used it. You put in hours and hours of work, and were kind enough to share it with us. In particular, I (and surely many others) have been contemplating the jump to MMU3 and like you have been put off by the massive footprint. Thank you thank you for doing this, and don't pay any attention to the internet scolds just trying to find something to complain about.
Bzzzt I completely agree with @HyyskanPolttaja. Electrical Engineer creds has nothing to do with basic tinkering and assembly principles. It was solid information. He said it very kindly and it wasn’t criticism. Rather a basic principle and informative. It is a bad practice period. I puckered a bit myself. Great Job on the tutorial!!
WOW very impressive video here very advance mechanical skills you know what you are doing I say aa guy with many decades of experience in anything mechanical, so I believe I am allow to call out fine mechanical skills when I see it, and this you have in spades, and please don't let ANY one tell you otherwise! Now that is out of the way I am a safety first kind of guy at all cost because you cannot replace human body like you can on a machine, you break a part who cares you get a new one, you break a human bones that is bad for all! Please rethink using your wonderful Sears Caftsmen drill as a pounding tool when it is not made to do that on a table that bounces up and down to many things could go wrong here and any young lady who see you doing this their will think it safe to do when it is not! Please rethink drilling small mental parts in your hands so close to the fast turning drill bit, one the drill bit can bite your fingers, and two the mental part could spin in your hand and take a few fingers out! Otherwise like I said you are super smart you know what your doing I only said this to make you even better! Life is all about learning and I hope you take this the way it was meant to be taking just so you know I did learn a few thing from that maens I should thank you, so THANK YOU! Thumb up new SUB! GO in peace!
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
That is a very clean solution. Thank you for publishing the video
Thank you!
You produce the best product videos I've seen. You focus on the work, which makes it easy to follow along while trying to figure out what to do next. Keep up the great work!
That's very nice of you to say. Thanks so much!
Thanks for making the video and putting all the ideas together in a logical solution , so much better than than stock buffer taking up so much place
Thanks so much!
That is a really great project. You have a nice solution to your space problem. Well done!
Thanks so much! Sorry "campher" is stuck in my head now! 🤦♀️
@@tada3dprinting It did make me chuckle. Is the new buffer working as good as it looks? If so, I might give this a try too.
Thank you very much, with your videos I think I will start with the assembly of the mmu3 for my MK4, 1 month ago I received the box, but I have not even opened it, since I assembled the mk4 kit, I have no desire to assemble anything else.
I can completely understand! I really wish they offered an assembled version! But I'm sure you'll get it!
I suggest building and tuning a Voron as building-detox in-between. Afterwards everything else will feel like a breeze again... ...a friend told me! :D
Be sure to clean out very thoroughly any metal particles from drilling out the pneumatic connectors. Particles like that would be perfect for clogging the nozzle if they hitch a ride on the filament.
Good point. Thank you!
That's a very interesting custom buffer solution. Definitely looks easier to load. I'm still using the default buffer on the right of my printer, but I have the filament mounted above the printer in a repbox. That filament then exits the box down the backside near the wall and into the buffer. I've been thinking about wall mounting the buffer behind the printer instead of in it's default right side, but the buffer itself isn't all that much space.
Yes that's true. I just felt like I had trouble loading and unloading into the buffer. Thanks!
REALLY good setup, want to do something similar so this is very helpful!!!
Thanks so much!
Awesome! The workflow is so much better with those. :)
Thank you!
7:11 Fancy hammer :)
But this design looks nice. Hope it works out well too.
Haha use what you got. Thank you!
Quite a clean solution... well done. 👍👍
Thank you!
Great job and inspiration! Thank you so much! I am too trying to figure out, how to have less space consumed by mmu3. I have Ikea Skadis next to printer, so I probably made whole buffer + spool setup hanging on skadis.
Thank you! I'm sure you'll figure it out
With PLA and PET-G, and Im sure most other materials, you don't necessarily need threaded holes. If the hole is properly sized a standard machine screw will tap the hole. Granted a self tapping screw will be easier to start in the hole.
Yeah that's true. Thanks
I hear ya on getting the hardware parts kits from Amazon. Going vertical is a good idea. I've found when drilling in plastic, go slow to reduce heating and softening. Maybe check out my quick informal videos on what I did. I’ve since used the whole ping pong table with an easier to use setup, will probably make a part four on that. This buffer idea is great with the switchable threading guide around the wheel.
My situation is hobby only so is different than your work use. I also like your XL videos 🙂
Thanks for watching!
Very interesting setup.. but how did the printing go in the end? Did you have any issues? Would love to see a followup on this video. This setup might eventually make me get an mmu3 as well. Good work!
Yes I need to post more using it. I'm still having a little trouble getting MMU3 to accept the filament when I load it. I need to mess with my tension more. But it's working so far. Thanks!
Just throwing out ideas here.... Wonder if the mechanism can be adapted to the existing 'cartridge' on the mmu3 buffer. I have my buffer inside the lackv2 and the loading design looks so much easier to use!
I do know it stacks and can be repositioned. Maybe it would have to fit inside the buffer?
I have a mk4 in a Prusa enclosure. The enclosure is not MMU3 friendly and requires the buffer to be placed externally, either on the top or hung on the side (which creates more problems). With the buffer placed externally, the provided PTFE tubes are too short and causes excessive bending which results in filament binding and load failures. The obvious solution is to use longer tubes but I have a recollection of reading somewhere that there is a tube length limit of 380mm. What is the length of the PTFE tubes in your arrangement? I am very tempted to print the buffers described in your video. It's well done with clear and efficient delivery of the information.
The tubes I used were the stock ones. I think it helped that I mounted the buffer on the wall behind. They wouldn't reach to the shelf. I believe Prusa says they are 650mm. I haven't looked but maybe you could buy longer ones from Prusa? Thanks!
Excellent video, very informative. How did you mount the buffer to the wall? Thanks for proving this video…
Thanks! I just used 3M command straps because I'll be moving it to another space soon. Thanks!
cool setup. looks like a ton of work- is it worth it? we need a follow up video after a few different projects to know if this works as well as desired
If you want a Prusa and don't want the footprint, I think it's a great solution. But after the time of building the MMU3 etc, I'm leaning towards the convenience of the Bambu for the majority of my printers.
You could stack the long pieces next to each other than against wall and the rolls above could be stacked above ie 3 bottom row and 2 top row so you quite easily get it get it witching printer footprint.
That should work. Thanks
Hmmm...I might need to build a cabinet in order to pull that off.
Yeah it's an awkward size/layout. Thanks!
I don't understand why Prusa hasn't come up with their own version to make it more compact. They need an mmu the size of bambu or creality to compete. Well done doing this video, please show a follow up with it working.
Since this isn't Prusa's first MMU, you really would think they would have come up with something by now! Thanks so much!
Heh... It's a different design, in most tests it is faster, less wasteful and more reliable than competitors... at least the MMU3 version is. But it does require a lot of extra space, partly because their solution requires a buffer. Also, loading it is a major PITA, again thanks to the buffer. This alternative buffer solves that problem nicely.
Personally I think I am going to do away with the buffer completely. All the buffer does is provide a place for retracted filament to go, without fouling up the spool. My current thought is to have 4 spool holders in a dry box, with room for retracted filament, and a small "flipper" lightly pressing on the filament where it exits the spool, to prevent buffered filament from rolling back or loosening the filament loops on the spool. That box can hold my most often used filaments. The 5th spool will be a wildcard filament that goes next to the MMU on the frame for fast swapping. It can run into the 5th MMU port, or be used directly in the print head (with MMU turned off, and sliced for vanilla Mk4, of course).
Thanks for a great video, this looks really neat! I just assembled my MMU3 and am a bit disappointed in what space hog it is, and how unadjusted it is to be used with enclosures, so am looking for alternative setups. Do you think those buffer elements would work ok if they were positioned horizontally below the spool holders?
Yes I'm sure they would. You might just have to adjust your tube lengths. Thanks!
That’s a much nicer setup, congrats! One question I have - it seems like the wheels have quite a bit of friction. Even though they have a bearing in the middle, they only move when you manually spin them. Is that rotating freely enough that it doesn’t cause problems for the MMU3 to pull the filament through?
That's a good question. I think if I was to print again I wouldn't use the Galaxy PLA. I feel like it has just a little bit of texture. And you really want them as smooth as possible. Thanks!
3:09 next time, try a brim. I think that would have helped with adhesion.
Thank you!
You should print yourself a vise to hold those parts instead of holding them in your hand while drilling them out.
Thanks for the great video. I think I am going to make this
Thanks so much!
Now Imagine having an Enclosure, Any Solution for that?
I would think your filament should all be able to sit on top. Does the original Prusa buffer fit inside the enclosure? Thanks!
i heard you used galixy black was that PLA
Yes I used PLA. I think he had in his notes he used PLA +. Thanks!
@@tada3dprinting thank you
Использовать шуруповёрт как молоток это конечно больно 😅
Dang, please don't use your drill as a hammer! Its a chunk of flammable lithuim you are holding. Very good video nonless!!
Good point! Thanks for watching!
Be nice if the wound the 2kg filament like the 1kg prusament.
Yeah maybe because it's recycled?
@@tada3dprinting I think
the non recycled one are like that too. Hopefully the will sort it (I guess it’s a cost benefit analysis issue - cost to modify machine to make it pretty For consumers)…
What recycled filament did you use?
The Prusament Recycled PLA. www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-pla-recycled-2kg/?_gl=1*c14t3g*_ga*MTM0Nzg0MjUxMC4xNzIwMzc4NDc3*_ga_3HK7B7RT5V*MTcyMDM3ODQ3Ny4xLjAuMTcyMDM3ODQ3OC42MC4wLjA.*_gcl_au*MTM1MTg2NDk0Mi4xNzIwMzc4NDc5
Thanks!
This design looks like it would work with a 3D Chameleon as well, if you don't have a Prusa printer.
love you nails and your hammer LOL
Thanks so much!
Please do not use your drill as a hammer! You may damage the battery or something. Add a hammer to your next Amazon order 😄
Yeah I gues that's true. Thanks
@@tada3dprinting Nah. I'm a long time electrical engineer and have designed and used many battery-operated devices. While a bit tasteless, it's anything BUT dangerous the way you used it. You put in hours and hours of work, and were kind enough to share it with us. In particular, I (and surely many others) have been contemplating the jump to MMU3 and like you have been put off by the massive footprint. Thank you thank you for doing this, and don't pay any attention to the internet scolds just trying to find something to complain about.
Bzzzt I completely agree with @HyyskanPolttaja. Electrical Engineer creds has nothing to do with basic tinkering and assembly principles. It was solid information. He said it very kindly and it wasn’t criticism. Rather a basic principle and informative. It is a bad practice period. I puckered a bit myself. Great Job on the tutorial!!
WOW very impressive video here very advance mechanical skills you know what you are doing I say aa guy with many decades of experience in anything mechanical, so I believe I am allow to call out fine mechanical skills when I see it, and this you have in spades, and please don't let ANY one tell you otherwise! Now that is out of the way I am a safety first kind of guy at all cost because you cannot replace human body like you can on a machine, you break a part who cares you get a new one, you break a human bones that is bad for all! Please rethink using your wonderful Sears Caftsmen drill as a pounding tool when it is not made to do that on a table that bounces up and down to many things could go wrong here and any young lady who see you doing this their will think it safe to do when it is not! Please rethink drilling small mental parts in your hands so close to the fast turning drill bit, one the drill bit can bite your fingers, and two the mental part could spin in your hand and take a few fingers out! Otherwise like I said you are super smart you know what your doing I only said this to make you even better! Life is all about learning and I hope you take this the way it was meant to be taking just so you know I did learn a few thing from that maens I should thank you, so THANK YOU! Thumb up new SUB! GO in peace!
Haha you're right. Safety first! Thanks so much for watching!
I think you could straight up save the buffers if you use The Filamentalist: th-cam.com/video/S7_1syZU9XU/w-d-xo.html
Oh that's cool! I'll check it out!
Not a fan of the mmu, fan of your sweet voice
Thanks
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