@@edmarfilho2000 i Hope for good Projects and Like an easy light Switch, currently i am doing IT with my octoprint and a little mikrochipcontrollerthingi
Had mk4 for 1 year, start print PC filament , had lost of issues, found most of problems where idler door xy belt tensioner, all warping a little, which gave different issue when printing , after prusa support , printed door etc in PC improved a lot of my prints and lot less fails
I'm really enjoying the ability to use steeper overhangs in my designs. Worth it. Bambu owners should upgrade Bambu Studio - there was a bug that Bambu was slow to fix that affects overhangs, but they did get around to it after Prusa released the Mk4S.
Can't afford a prusa however everyone I've ever spoken with that has one loves them like a dog. Stickers and candy as the best ro get in and kit. Thanks for the down to earth video.
They are overpriced printers these days. Yes reliable, but so are so many other printers for half or even a quarter of the price of a Prusa printer. In many cases other printers are also bigger and still cheaper. Bambu has come and taken the crown from anyone and everyone, their A1 printer is....just stupid reliable and easy to use it literally blew me away at how crazy good that printer is.
@@wiesman2613 only used as a comparison since that is who Prusa is going to be competing against at the price points they have. It's what someone buying a printer is going to need to compare against. Elegoo Neptune printers are really the best bang for the buck in terms of price to build volume, with the Neptune 4 Max being about a dollar per a square mm. (Note: The 4 Plus and 4 Max both come with accelerometers built into the head and bed for input shaping, and both have Wifi by default, the base model and "pro" versions do not). As for the tests in the video, the one downside to the bambu printers is their weak part cooling. The X1 does have a good part cooler on it but it could still be better with the speeds it can achieve being an core X/Y. The A1 has the weakest of part coolers on it, thought it does get the job done just not going to win any long bridging competitions. So there is something to be said in improving part cooling on any printer, always something to look to improve on, regardless of printer. My Voron 2.4 has good part cooling with the Knomi SB on it but I am always looking for some way to improve on it.
Oh, if you ever come into the position to afford one, even a used one... I don't think you'll regret it. There are faster printers, cooler printers, quieter printers, bigger printers, but a prusa is a prusa. It just works (™)! I'd say that it sits right in the upper 85% of every metric, and that's the beauty of it. You probably can get one printer that does that one thing better, but a prusa is great at a bit of everything. Plus, it rarely fails and that's a big plus.
In our series "If it ain't broken, don't fix it," I upgraded my very well working MK4 to MK4S only to find that self test of the part cooler - that big blower - failed. Darn! I opened a chat with Prusa tech support and pretty soon the friendly tech person promised to send me a new fan under warranty. So, here I sit rolling my thumbs while waiting for the replacement fan to arrive.
I had the upgrade kit in my cart waiting for someone to post a detailed review. I think I am going to buy it now. But frankly I never had any issues with mk4 to begin with.
Was watching the springs you printed while enjoying Vivaldi but then I had to visit the toilet and when I was sitting there with the door slightly cracked open to hear Vivaldi a bit better I suddenly started to chuckle.... Well played sir! 😊 Oh and thanks for yet another interesting and entertaining video. 👍
Impressive difference from the Mk4 to the S-version. Just for bringing Bambu Lab into the comment section: Those steep overhangs would also be trashed on my Bambu Lab P1S, and it's a known area that can be improved heavily on the P- and X-series in general (I don't know about the A-series). Some of it is due to the fan duct design, but a larger more capable cooler would definitely also help. Prusa seems to have done a great job testing these items for the Mk4S iteration, and I'm very glad to see that they're still going strong.
My Mk4s upgrade just came in today. I built the Mk4 from a kit, so this will be more of a revisit than a fresh foray into the guts. Oddly enough, my Bambu X1C was delivered yesterday - so I will have a fresh set of toys to play with as the winter sets in. 😁
I plan on getting this, but knowing the company now I wonder if they aren't working on a MK4S+ upgrade....and will it be compatible with the MK4 as is or do I need to but this and then the MK4S+ upgrade....
@@CrazyT0sser well yours did better than all the other stock ones cpap cooling is interesting, the new flsun printers have it, too, right? the only improvement i can think of is cooling the air with a peltier element before sending it through the hose. doesn't need as much flow for the same effect so bridges don't get pushed down too much
“Brings bamboo into the comments” me, what about my ender 3, it can do all that and more after all this tuning and parts! (Maybe a bit too much money as well)
@@mo0seboy yeah I know about it and I’m working on something better than it called PanDER and it uses two Enders to make a core xy flying gantry with multiple versions depending on how much you want to spend
Literally me and my full bear converted anet a8 with a meter long list of upgrades through the years. Pretty sure the only original part now is the end stops 🥲
I presume all the filaments used in the parts shown was PLA? Does the upgrade affect any other filaments? In my experience strong cooling only matters to PLA since stuff like PETG, PCTG etc. can't be printed as fast anyway.
For me upgrade is taking already 2 weeks. Got faulty y-axis tensioner part which broke when mounting. First they've sent wrong part. Then after getting the correct one it seems that I've also got faulty HF nozzle and I'm currently waiting for replacement. Upgrade itself is very easy and fast. Good thing about the whole thing is that Prusa is not trying to leave me hanging and that I was able to use old nozzle for the time being.
Actually I hope all components are available individually in the shop soon(TM). If using the MMU3 the new nozzle is not to be used - and while a CHT is nice on bigger diameters, on 0.4 it´s higher flow is only used at more than 0.2 layerhight anyways. So this part is not realy needed for the upgrade. New Wifi and NFC might be nice - but I do not need NFC and prefer LAN over WLAN anyways. Also I printed all my parts for the mk3s+ to mk4 upgrade myself from ASA-GF, so I doubt PC-CF is realy necessary, even with an enclosed mk4. And the injection molded parts are a step backwarts. So the main upgrade for me would be the fan. Just for the fan the upgrade seems a bit expensive... However, I bought one mk3.9s upgrade to upgrade a second of my mk3s.
I run four MK4's in the Prusa enclosure. Recently had a strange extrusion issue on my first MK4 (randomly stops extruding even with a new nozzle, no clogging) Support were strangely insistent that PLA should be printed with doors open. I've never done this as my temps in the enclosure are always mid-20s and my office is cold and I wanted stable temps in an enclosure. I could find no warping of the PETG parts in the extruder etc but they still jumped to wanting to send me PC parts. I believe I've now determined it's actually the extruder motor that has an issue (observed it not turning when the extrusion has stopped) so have ordered another. Still I found it a bit weird they focused on the print temps and wonder if there is an underlying issue with the MK4 in the enclosure.
thats a common requirement actually, bambu, creality, qidi all say to print with the door open. The problem is heat creep - the cold side of the extruder can't get/stay cool enough. You could stop it happening by lowering the enclosure temp probably. But yeah, it's a consequence of PLA's very low glass point. The ultimate solution is water cooling of the extruder.
@@LostInTech3D That’s interesting. My printers have always been in cold offices and I always struggled with warping issues until I started using enclosures. Each of these MK4’s has 2.5k hours printing PLA enclosed with no issues until now and I’m certain this issue is a faulty motor. I’ll do some testing doors open 👍
@@zerofox3dinteresting, I’ve also printed with my my MK4 in a cooler basement and found I get bad warping, especially with larger parts in PLA. I added a bit of a “semi enclosure” where it’s loosely enclosed, but the bottom 6 inches or so are left open (I was inspired from the images of Prusa’s print farm, where it looks like the printers have a little plastic flap, or “face shield” on them. If it’s good enough for Prusa.. ) I’m nearly completed building a “real” custom enclosure and can’t wait to install my upgrade and try out printing higher temp materials like PC and ASA
I'd love to see something about the added accelerometer support! Also I just got a bambu to sit alongside my 4S. I'm collecting the infinity stones. What are the other three? Creality k2, some kind of voron, and what else? :D
Well, I have a bit mixed feelings about this upgrade, especially now after your video. I’m awaiting 11 upgrades kits for my small farm, and according to your tests, I don’t see any added value. Still 6 weeks to find it out by myself;)
I very much enjoyed seeing this. I'm still "stuck" on a MK3S and I definitely notice cooling is lackluster on the back side. However, I plan for it with orienting my parts appropriately and things work out fine. My FOMO is somewhat less having seen this, but kudos to Prusa for continually improving their printers. As for a "weird filament"... is it flexible?
I upgraded my MK4S to an MMU3 and still had to change out parts in the Nextruder area, specifically the Filament sensor and what not. Id love to see a video of the GPIO board if possible!
The mk4s really is convincing me to buy another Prusa. Would love to see what the gpio board can do, would be cool is you could hook up a print removal mechanism controlled by that.
@@LostInTech3D Installed my accelerometer and GPIO module Saturday. Found a neat box for the GPIO module made by @StevePeterson on Printables. Have yet to start exploring the possibilities, but will probably add a few buttons so I can tinker with some macros. I have 2 of the filters from Alveo in my enclosure: One purely as filter (like Prusa's own setup) and one as an air extractor - ensuring a small negative pressure in the enclosure. Even when printing ABS and ASA, the printer is effectively free of odors outside the enclosure (but a bit more noisy). Would be neat if I could control those fans using GPIO's. Haven't put it though its paces yet, but TPU (95a), PETG, PLA and PCCF have printed with no issues through the high-flow 0.4 Obsidian nozzle and using MMU3. Quality seems a bit better after calibration using the accelerometer - but that might just be wishful thinking on my part.
personally, my mk4 is working well and inside of an enclosure witch would make the upgrade a pain so I don't plan on upgrading unless I need to take the printer out anyway for repair.
Eh, I'd probably just skip the Y-axis and the LCD parts. I don't have an enclosure, so what do I care? Really, the only improvements I care for here are on the extruder.
Sure, I did think that, but I'm not sure if the "certification" or whatever applies to doing everything. If you ever wanted to sell the mk4s on, it's worth doing everything in the kit, in my opinion, rather than having a sort of hybrid machine you have to explain.
@@LostInTech3D I'm more the kind of a person to repurpose things -- whether it be as a whole or as parts -- when I no longer need them, so rather than sell the MK4(S) I'd be more likely to take it apart and use the individual parts for projects. The heatbed, for example, can be used for a pretty sweet filament dryer. Besides which, where I live, there's really basically no market for used 3D-printers anyways.
@@LostInTech3D As a complete aside, I appreciate the dry sarcasm you so heavily apply in your videos. Every time I watch one, the atmospheric humidity in the house drops by 15%.
On Sunday 13th October 2024 Space X did it, a perfect 5th Launch of the Space X Starship & Super Heavy Booster! Then they did make history by catching the super heavy booster on the 1st try with the mega-zilla chopsticks. big sonic boom as it did so. The starship did a perfect orbit to the Indian Ocean and flew down to do a perfect soft water landing, with the space x filming water floats there in the landing water zone to see it. But for some odd reason the starship blew up after water full touch down? Still truly amazing event.
If you ask me the MK4S upgrade is not worth much, besides the NFC stuff and that only is more interesting for new users. I have a P1S and the quality compared to MK4S is so much better, the additional fan on MK4S doesnt fix much. The overhang performance has been replicated on Bambu and others with just different slicer settings, and they are still faster than MK4S. The real problem is the motion system a core xy is more stable and will inherently perform better than a slinger. I still see a lot more belt and other artifacts on pruse compared to bambu.
@@LostInTech3D you're thinking of input shaping but it appears more like the regular linear advance calibration that you need to do. Should actually do it per filament or at least per filament type. It didn't matter as much before high speed printing but makes a big difference now
So seeing as it was mentioned and someone has to be that person, I am considering getting a P1S for the current UK price of £515 w shipping Go for it or no? I already have an A1 but have found myself essentially only printing in PETG/ ASA now and the lack of an enclosure is hurting my soul Also good video on the upgrade
Ultimately it's up to you. I am not a fan of the waste these things encourage (even in single colour they purge too much and make smoke too) but the hardware itself is very solid. You could build an enclosure out of anything tbh, I made my first one out of tables, it's in my voron build video where I rant extensively about the topic.
@@LostInTech3D Smoke? What? Also can you specify how it purges a lot when printing with a single color? I read that it only does that when you mess with timelapses. You can control purging with orcaslicer as far as I know. I just ordered mine so I can't test these things yet. I've chosen bambu due to the price vs prusa.
Oh, the smoke thing I covered a bit in my fumes vid, printers that purge seem to do it at a too high temp or too much flow or something. You noticed the smell? That. It's not good for you, ventilate it!
@LostInTech3D Oh, yeah fumes (I thought there was a real smoke.. I guess there's little difference besides density, but still it got me a bit confused semantics-wise), my current printer produces quite a bit of smell even with PLA. I was hoping Enclosed P1S with a carbon filter would fair better... I guess we'll see. I saw that video and health concerns are real for me. I don't intend to print anything exotic but I'm worried about what's in those magic mixes like PLA+, HF, etc. While PLA is decent, those might not be. Even PLA I only print longer prints when I'm out because the printer is in the room I'm working at home and it does make my eyes and throat dry if I don't have a good airflow. That being said I suffer a lot more from air pollution on the streets which will affect me now that it's getting colder outside due to people burning who knows what than I ever did from printing... still better to be safe than sorry. Thank you for answering
@@ares395 Not sure about P1 or X1, but A1 dumps a hefty poop in the beginning of every print. No AMS. Maybe it want's to clear possible filament cut (that you might have done while it was asleep) out of the way, and then does some flow calibrating thing.
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I really think this is the first upgrade (since original MK3) that I'll skip.
The MK4 already works very well. The new nozzle is only effective for layer thicknesses above 0.2. Cooling is therefore the only point that I sometimes criticize about my MK4. I will therefore update. But you're right, it's not absolutely necessary. But it's not expensive either.
Why would people bring buying bamboo into the comments? Isn't it a grass? Doesn't grass kind of takeover everywhere it starts? I mean sure, if you want a bamboo forest in your yard (and have the climate for it), not really sure why you would want it otherwise though 🤷🏿♀️
I'm going to bring bambu into the conversation Their stock profiles aren't that good. The profiles I see on maker world are even worse. I spend about 10 minutes on every part I print customizing the settings to get the best speed and strength and quality balance for that particular part. I'm a weirdo like that but my prints come out incredible.
Fun fact: the “old LCD” MK4 printers (that’s me) got a different 3D printed cover, which I do think I like more. It was a different PCB design, which meant a different part, and they didn’t want to make an injection mold for the tiny amount of people that had the old version.
Laughs in Bambu. I can not take Prusa seriously with the prices they are asking for machines that still come stock with printed parts. And need another 300 in upgrades (so 1000 spent) just to equal a Bambu A1
Imagine comparing prices of a printer that is made in EU/USA with real name brand components to a printer that's 100% made in china with cheap no name knock off components. I can't take you seriously.
I bought it, but I don't know why. And I have to wait 2-3 months for it. I will say, however, that it will be my last Prusa purchase. I'd rather spend my money at the Bambu Lab store, where the value is better and the shipping cost a whole lot better.
That recycled packing paper they use smells SO bad. The new fan puts out an impressive amount of air, I was surprised. The PCCF belt holder for the underside front seems to be cracking on people, showing layer adhesion issues. Was a real pain in the butt getting the torx screws into the screen mounts. Self-tapping screws suck. Prusa doesn't recommend the CHT/HF nozzles with the MMU. Booooo!
Tks. GPIO and Accelerometer Set projects and ideas will be very appreciated!!
Yeah I want to see that! I also ordered the Upgrade with the gpio and accelerometer 🙂
@@MaxMichel89same here...I bought it and have no idea what to do...ahhhh
@@edmarfilho2000 i Hope for good Projects and Like an easy light Switch, currently i am doing IT with my octoprint and a little mikrochipcontrollerthingi
Had mk4 for 1 year, start print PC filament , had lost of issues, found most of problems where idler door xy belt tensioner, all warping a little, which gave different issue when printing , after prusa support , printed door etc in PC improved a lot of my prints and lot less fails
I'm really enjoying the ability to use steeper overhangs in my designs. Worth it.
Bambu owners should upgrade Bambu Studio - there was a bug that Bambu was slow to fix that affects overhangs, but they did get around to it after Prusa released the Mk4S.
Can't afford a prusa however everyone I've ever spoken with that has one loves them like a dog. Stickers and candy as the best ro get in and kit. Thanks for the down to earth video.
They are the most expensive gummy bears ever. Luckily the bears come with a free printer
They are overpriced printers these days. Yes reliable, but so are so many other printers for half or even a quarter of the price of a Prusa printer. In many cases other printers are also bigger and still cheaper. Bambu has come and taken the crown from anyone and everyone, their A1 printer is....just stupid reliable and easy to use it literally blew me away at how crazy good that printer is.
@@SirLANsalot thank you Bambu guy. You're exactly what he was talking about at the end of the video.
@@wiesman2613 only used as a comparison since that is who Prusa is going to be competing against at the price points they have. It's what someone buying a printer is going to need to compare against. Elegoo Neptune printers are really the best bang for the buck in terms of price to build volume, with the Neptune 4 Max being about a dollar per a square mm. (Note: The 4 Plus and 4 Max both come with accelerometers built into the head and bed for input shaping, and both have Wifi by default, the base model and "pro" versions do not).
As for the tests in the video, the one downside to the bambu printers is their weak part cooling. The X1 does have a good part cooler on it but it could still be better with the speeds it can achieve being an core X/Y. The A1 has the weakest of part coolers on it, thought it does get the job done just not going to win any long bridging competitions.
So there is something to be said in improving part cooling on any printer, always something to look to improve on, regardless of printer.
My Voron 2.4 has good part cooling with the Knomi SB on it but I am always looking for some way to improve on it.
Oh, if you ever come into the position to afford one, even a used one... I don't think you'll regret it. There are faster printers, cooler printers, quieter printers, bigger printers, but a prusa is a prusa. It just works (™)!
I'd say that it sits right in the upper 85% of every metric, and that's the beauty of it. You probably can get one printer that does that one thing better, but a prusa is great at a bit of everything. Plus, it rarely fails and that's a big plus.
Good to see Josef himself addressing the googly eye regression
In our series "If it ain't broken, don't fix it," I upgraded my very well working MK4 to MK4S only to find that self test of the part cooler - that big blower - failed.
Darn!
I opened a chat with Prusa tech support and pretty soon the friendly tech person promised to send me a new fan under warranty.
So, here I sit rolling my thumbs while waiting for the replacement fan to arrive.
you could always blow on it :D
I had the upgrade kit in my cart waiting for someone to post a detailed review. I think I am going to buy it now. But frankly I never had any issues with mk4 to begin with.
Was watching the springs you printed while enjoying Vivaldi but then I had to visit the toilet and when I was sitting there with the door slightly cracked open to hear Vivaldi a bit better I suddenly started to chuckle.... Well played sir! 😊 Oh and thanks for yet another interesting and entertaining video. 👍
You're the first person to catch that 👍
Impressive difference from the Mk4 to the S-version. Just for bringing Bambu Lab into the comment section: Those steep overhangs would also be trashed on my Bambu Lab P1S, and it's a known area that can be improved heavily on the P- and X-series in general (I don't know about the A-series). Some of it is due to the fan duct design, but a larger more capable cooler would definitely also help. Prusa seems to have done a great job testing these items for the Mk4S iteration, and I'm very glad to see that they're still going strong.
My Mk4s upgrade just came in today. I built the Mk4 from a kit, so this will be more of a revisit than a fresh foray into the guts.
Oddly enough, my Bambu X1C was delivered yesterday - so I will have a fresh set of toys to play with as the winter sets in. 😁
Yes please for a video about the GPIO and accelerometer
we have come so far since the makerbot days
It’s crazy isn’t it. My first printer was a makerbot 2 geez was it a junker lol
Thanks for the vid, was on the fence for purchasing this upgrade. I will do so now. ;)
I plan on getting this, but knowing the company now I wonder if they aren't working on a MK4S+ upgrade....and will it be compatible with the MK4 as is or do I need to but this and then the MK4S+ upgrade....
the print by the flying bear looked awesome
@crazyT0sser did a LOT of mods on it
@@LostInTech3D is it on TH-cam? i'll have a look. sounds cool
@@marc_frank nope, it's nothing that hasn't been done before anyway. Considering the topic, the only mod of significance i performed is CPAP cooling.
@@CrazyT0sser well yours did better than all the other stock ones
cpap cooling is interesting, the new flsun printers have it, too, right?
the only improvement i can think of is cooling the air with a peltier element before sending it through the hose.
doesn't need as much flow for the same effect so bridges don't get pushed down too much
@@marc_frank they do indeed. it is, however, louder than your common blower fan.
Always fun. Always entertaining.
Should have bought a bambu (absolutely joking ) I'm a mk4 owner my upgrade shows up today, thanks for the video man
A good overhang beats a bad hangover any day!
Well, that spiralled ;) Love the unboxing music.
“Brings bamboo into the comments” me, what about my ender 3, it can do all that and more after all this tuning and parts! (Maybe a bit too much money as well)
sounds like the Ender 3 of Theseus :)
Have you heard about the Ender 3 NG project? Might be good for another 40 hours of your life modding your "cheap $200" printer. :)
Why not both? :P
@@mo0seboy yeah I know about it and I’m working on something better than it called PanDER and it uses two Enders to make a core xy flying gantry with multiple versions depending on how much you want to spend
Literally me and my full bear converted anet a8 with a meter long list of upgrades through the years. Pretty sure the only original part now is the end stops 🥲
I got 100% on the comparisons! :D
16:10 i laughed harder then i should have 😂 great video!
I presume all the filaments used in the parts shown was PLA? Does the upgrade affect any other filaments? In my experience strong cooling only matters to PLA since stuff like PETG, PCTG etc. can't be printed as fast anyway.
you take buildplate to the next level the mk4 is even a worktable
For me upgrade is taking already 2 weeks. Got faulty y-axis tensioner part which broke when mounting. First they've sent wrong part. Then after getting the correct one it seems that I've also got faulty HF nozzle and I'm currently waiting for replacement. Upgrade itself is very easy and fast. Good thing about the whole thing is that Prusa is not trying to leave me hanging and that I was able to use old nozzle for the time being.
Followup: got replacement nozzle and everything finally works like a charm :) bit of a hiccup but thankfully Prusa cares about their customers.
I love it! im gonna order it next week!
Actually I hope all components are available individually in the shop soon(TM). If using the MMU3 the new nozzle is not to be used - and while a CHT is nice on bigger diameters, on 0.4 it´s higher flow is only used at more than 0.2 layerhight anyways. So this part is not realy needed for the upgrade. New Wifi and NFC might be nice - but I do not need NFC and prefer LAN over WLAN anyways. Also I printed all my parts for the mk3s+ to mk4 upgrade myself from ASA-GF, so I doubt PC-CF is realy necessary, even with an enclosed mk4. And the injection molded parts are a step backwarts.
So the main upgrade for me would be the fan. Just for the fan the upgrade seems a bit expensive...
However, I bought one mk3.9s upgrade to upgrade a second of my mk3s.
Honestly astounding difference
I run four MK4's in the Prusa enclosure. Recently had a strange extrusion issue on my first MK4 (randomly stops extruding even with a new nozzle, no clogging) Support were strangely insistent that PLA should be printed with doors open. I've never done this as my temps in the enclosure are always mid-20s and my office is cold and I wanted stable temps in an enclosure. I could find no warping of the PETG parts in the extruder etc but they still jumped to wanting to send me PC parts. I believe I've now determined it's actually the extruder motor that has an issue (observed it not turning when the extrusion has stopped) so have ordered another. Still I found it a bit weird they focused on the print temps and wonder if there is an underlying issue with the MK4 in the enclosure.
thats a common requirement actually, bambu, creality, qidi all say to print with the door open. The problem is heat creep - the cold side of the extruder can't get/stay cool enough. You could stop it happening by lowering the enclosure temp probably. But yeah, it's a consequence of PLA's very low glass point.
The ultimate solution is water cooling of the extruder.
@@LostInTech3D That’s interesting. My printers have always been in cold offices and I always struggled with warping issues until I started using enclosures. Each of these MK4’s has 2.5k hours printing PLA enclosed with no issues until now and I’m certain this issue is a faulty motor. I’ll do some testing doors open 👍
@@zerofox3dinteresting, I’ve also printed with my my MK4 in a cooler basement and found I get bad warping, especially with larger parts in PLA. I added a bit of a “semi enclosure” where it’s loosely enclosed, but the bottom 6 inches or so are left open (I was inspired from the images of Prusa’s print farm, where it looks like the printers have a little plastic flap, or “face shield” on them. If it’s good enough for Prusa.. ) I’m nearly completed building a “real” custom enclosure and can’t wait to install my upgrade and try out printing higher temp materials like PC and ASA
That bag of gummies ain't big enough for the price and amount of work
🤣
that's an opinion
Well I bought the update as well as the GPIO Board. I'm running for better quality in complicated parts. So I think this is the way to go
I'd love to see something about the added accelerometer support!
Also I just got a bambu to sit alongside my 4S. I'm collecting the infinity stones. What are the other three? Creality k2, some kind of voron, and what else? :D
Flsun T1 for sure
Do you void your warranty to use the gpio (hacker board) ?
Nice all quiz guesses correct. x)
You don't necessarily need the update, but I want it😉
Hi, thanks for the video... by the way could you please tell me what size is the layer fan? 😊
Well, I have a bit mixed feelings about this upgrade, especially now after your video. I’m awaiting 11 upgrades kits for my small farm, and according to your tests, I don’t see any added value. Still 6 weeks to find it out by myself;)
I'm still with my mk3s+, I am waiting for the time period where they make the last upgrade for mk4 and start work on mk5 (or something else)
I very much enjoyed seeing this. I'm still "stuck" on a MK3S and I definitely notice cooling is lackluster on the back side. However, I plan for it with orienting my parts appropriately and things work out fine.
My FOMO is somewhat less having seen this, but kudos to Prusa for continually improving their printers.
As for a "weird filament"... is it flexible?
me too, I am having FOMO fluctuations anytime something like this happens
I upgraded my MK4S to an MMU3 and still had to change out parts in the Nextruder area, specifically the Filament sensor and what not. Id love to see a video of the GPIO board if possible!
Oh. I guess some gets replaced and some doesn't then. Interesting.
I wonder how they keep track of all this
GP-IO. Can you look into taking picture with a camera (time lapse), activating light/fan when the printer start the print.
Nice comment about the Bambu users :)
🤣
I've been mildly thinking about both the Mk4S Upgrade and the MMU, so I guess if I get one, I should probably get both of them?
Entirely depends on whether you think you'll use the mmu and whether you have space for it
I just printed on my Bambu X1C, looks good. Where could I send you the picture?
@@iCatch you should be able to tag it onto the patreon chat thread
Got 100% on the quiz do i now have bragging rights?
I was on the fence between an mk4s or an x1c, and seeing the spring comparison, that definitely tilts me towards sticking with prusa
(I own an mk3s)
The googly eyes do not stick? Prusa really has fallen off 😭
The mk4s really is convincing me to buy another Prusa. Would love to see what the gpio board can do, would be cool is you could hook up a print removal mechanism controlled by that.
yeah I'm interested in photos but it's definitely my kind of thing, I'll order one.
I'll order one and we'll see what happens!
@@LostInTech3D
Installed my accelerometer and GPIO module Saturday.
Found a neat box for the GPIO module made by @StevePeterson on Printables.
Have yet to start exploring the possibilities, but will probably add a few buttons so I can tinker with some macros.
I have 2 of the filters from Alveo in my enclosure: One purely as filter (like Prusa's own setup) and one as an air extractor - ensuring a small negative pressure in the enclosure.
Even when printing ABS and ASA, the printer is effectively free of odors outside the enclosure (but a bit more noisy).
Would be neat if I could control those fans using GPIO's.
Haven't put it though its paces yet, but TPU (95a), PETG, PLA and PCCF have printed with no issues through the high-flow 0.4 Obsidian nozzle and using MMU3.
Quality seems a bit better after calibration using the accelerometer - but that might just be wishful thinking on my part.
Interesting, because the MK4S convinced me to buy another X1 Carbon.
personally, my mk4 is working well and inside of an enclosure witch would make the upgrade a pain so I don't plan on upgrading unless I need to take the printer out anyway for repair.
8:06 no old one was basic esp-01 based off of esp8266.. New one may be esp32!
Eh, I'd probably just skip the Y-axis and the LCD parts. I don't have an enclosure, so what do I care? Really, the only improvements I care for here are on the extruder.
Sure, I did think that, but I'm not sure if the "certification" or whatever applies to doing everything. If you ever wanted to sell the mk4s on, it's worth doing everything in the kit, in my opinion, rather than having a sort of hybrid machine you have to explain.
@@LostInTech3D I'm more the kind of a person to repurpose things -- whether it be as a whole or as parts -- when I no longer need them, so rather than sell the MK4(S) I'd be more likely to take it apart and use the individual parts for projects. The heatbed, for example, can be used for a pretty sweet filament dryer.
Besides which, where I live, there's really basically no market for used 3D-printers anyways.
@@LostInTech3D As a complete aside, I appreciate the dry sarcasm you so heavily apply in your videos. Every time I watch one, the atmospheric humidity in the house drops by 15%.
perhaps this is the secret to why I don't suffer wet filament! :)
@@LostInTech3D Or a wet lady friend.
Get a nozzle made by pcb way
On Sunday 13th October 2024 Space X did it, a perfect 5th Launch of the Space X Starship & Super Heavy Booster!
Then they did make history by catching the super heavy booster on the 1st try with the mega-zilla chopsticks. big sonic boom as it did so.
The starship did a perfect orbit to the Indian Ocean and flew down to do a perfect soft water landing,
with the space x filming water floats there in the landing water zone to see it.
But for some odd reason the starship blew up after water full touch down?
Still truly amazing event.
I wonder if its worth upgrading my 3s to a 4s?
yes definitely
For that price you can just buy an mk4s-kit. But the Upgrade to 3.5 is really nice. Huge speed increase for little Work time and Money.
For some reason, stratysis couldn't buy bambu. I can get an A1 mini for 200$
16:11
No one tested your spring on an Anet A8? lol
funny enough, you mentioning bambu at the end brings it into the convo so...
If you ask me the MK4S upgrade is not worth much, besides the NFC stuff and that only is more interesting for new users. I have a P1S and the quality compared to MK4S is so much better, the additional fan on MK4S doesnt fix much. The overhang performance has been replicated on Bambu and others with just different slicer settings, and they are still faster than MK4S. The real problem is the motion system a core xy is more stable and will inherently perform better than a slinger. I still see a lot more belt and other artifacts on pruse compared to bambu.
I got 100% right. your yellow filament needs dried though.
it all needs drying! I got a fish tank! Argh!
Prusa pritners are work of love.
Looks like you needed to do a linear advance calibration on your mk4. Those corners..
Ah, yes that's something the s can do if you buy the accelerometer, I suppose I should.
@@LostInTech3D you're thinking of input shaping but it appears more like the regular linear advance calibration that you need to do. Should actually do it per filament or at least per filament type. It didn't matter as much before high speed printing but makes a big difference now
Love the comment about the "buy a Bambu guy" I'm not sure what it is, but Bambu people remind me of apple people....
same mentality haha
Message to prusa : less plastic bags in your box please 🙏 …
fair point (to all manufacturers)
Oh snap they got a new version. I don't even know what version my mk3s? is.
in enclosure mk4 cooling performance is debatable even with abs…
Yep
Id love you have a ponder at the coreXY conversion kit - ProosaXY
Tempting.....I'll bookmark it
Please a GPIO video would be appreciated ❤
So seeing as it was mentioned and someone has to be that person, I am considering getting a P1S for the current UK price of £515 w shipping
Go for it or no? I already have an A1 but have found myself essentially only printing in PETG/ ASA now and the lack of an enclosure is hurting my soul
Also good video on the upgrade
Ultimately it's up to you. I am not a fan of the waste these things encourage (even in single colour they purge too much and make smoke too) but the hardware itself is very solid. You could build an enclosure out of anything tbh, I made my first one out of tables, it's in my voron build video where I rant extensively about the topic.
@@LostInTech3D Smoke? What? Also can you specify how it purges a lot when printing with a single color? I read that it only does that when you mess with timelapses. You can control purging with orcaslicer as far as I know. I just ordered mine so I can't test these things yet.
I've chosen bambu due to the price vs prusa.
Oh, the smoke thing I covered a bit in my fumes vid, printers that purge seem to do it at a too high temp or too much flow or something. You noticed the smell? That. It's not good for you, ventilate it!
@LostInTech3D Oh, yeah fumes (I thought there was a real smoke.. I guess there's little difference besides density, but still it got me a bit confused semantics-wise), my current printer produces quite a bit of smell even with PLA. I was hoping Enclosed P1S with a carbon filter would fair better... I guess we'll see.
I saw that video and health concerns are real for me. I don't intend to print anything exotic but I'm worried about what's in those magic mixes like PLA+, HF, etc. While PLA is decent, those might not be. Even PLA I only print longer prints when I'm out because the printer is in the room I'm working at home and it does make my eyes and throat dry if I don't have a good airflow. That being said I suffer a lot more from air pollution on the streets which will affect me now that it's getting colder outside due to people burning who knows what than I ever did from printing... still better to be safe than sorry.
Thank you for answering
@@ares395 Not sure about P1 or X1, but A1 dumps a hefty poop in the beginning of every print. No AMS.
Maybe it want's to clear possible filament cut (that you might have done while it was asleep) out of the way, and then does some flow calibrating thing.
I really think this is the first upgrade (since original MK3) that I'll skip.
The MK4 already works very well. The new nozzle is only effective for layer thicknesses above 0.2.
Cooling is therefore the only point that I sometimes criticize about my MK4. I will therefore update. But you're right, it's not absolutely necessary. But it's not expensive either.
Buy a Bambu! 😁jk. Though I do love mine.
I'd like to see how to use the gpio with the Prusa enclosure to control the Filtration system and light.
Why would people bring buying bamboo into the comments? Isn't it a grass? Doesn't grass kind of takeover everywhere it starts? I mean sure, if you want a bamboo forest in your yard (and have the climate for it), not really sure why you would want it otherwise though 🤷🏿♀️
feel its non sens to spend a 99 dollar for a fan u can buy for 8 dollars or smth
Should have been a $50 dollar upgrade if taking prusa pricing into account
The most meaningful upgrade, I've done in my shop, started with selling my Prusas...
ah you work in microcenter?
Good decision!
I'm going to bring bambu into the conversation
Their stock profiles aren't that good. The profiles I see on maker world are even worse.
I spend about 10 minutes on every part I print customizing the settings to get the best speed and strength and quality balance for that particular part. I'm a weirdo like that but my prints come out incredible.
The new screen cover looks terrible
Fun fact: the “old LCD” MK4 printers (that’s me) got a different 3D printed cover, which I do think I like more. It was a different PCB design, which meant a different part, and they didn’t want to make an injection mold for the tiny amount of people that had the old version.
@@aaronchamberlain4698I like the old one that is 3dprinted
gpio vid pls
Laughs in Bambu. I can not take Prusa seriously with the prices they are asking for machines that still come stock with printed parts. And need another 300 in upgrades (so 1000 spent) just to equal a Bambu A1
Ironic that lost in tech brings Bambu into the convo himself just by mentioning it.
Imagine comparing prices of a printer that is made in EU/USA with real name brand components to a printer that's 100% made in china with cheap no name knock off components.
I can't take you seriously.
16:11
Something terribly ironic about buying a 3D printer and whining about 3D printed parts.
cool, you want to be paid €370 per month and live in a dictatorship or simply finance it, what are you working for?
I bought it, but I don't know why. And I have to wait 2-3 months for it. I will say, however, that it will be my last Prusa purchase. I'd rather spend my money at the Bambu Lab store, where the value is better and the shipping cost a whole lot better.
Whats a Bamboo????????
some kind of plant :)
@@LostInTech3D oh that sounds about right, I think you can use them for a blow darts also
A really expensive weed lol
@@louiel8711 lol
gogo poosaaaa
After I bought my MK4, and the mmu made the mainboard brick for 2 times, I’ve given away Prusa and changed for Bambu
huh, thats not something I've heard about
Hasn't happened to me.
That recycled packing paper they use smells SO bad.
The new fan puts out an impressive amount of air, I was surprised.
The PCCF belt holder for the underside front seems to be cracking on people, showing layer adhesion issues.
Was a real pain in the butt getting the torx screws into the screen mounts. Self-tapping screws suck.
Prusa doesn't recommend the CHT/HF nozzles with the MMU. Booooo!
amazon shipping dept uses that same paper so I think I must be used to it by now, I won't describe how it smells hahaha
No
I do the answers 👌
Prusa hasn't been worth it in years, even moreso now that Bambu Labs is in the picture. The MK4 is just an outdated and overpriced design.
16:11