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I have a mk4 in a Prusa enclosure. The enclosure is not MMU3 friendly and requires the buffer to be placed externally, either on the top or hung on the side (which creates more problems). With the buffer placed externally, the provided PTFE tubes are too short and causes excessive bending which results in filament binding and load failures. The obvious solution is to use longer tubes but I have a recollection of reading somewhere that there is a tube length limit of 380mm. What is the length of the PTFE tubes in your arrangement? I am very tempted to print the buffers described in your video. It's well done with clear and efficient delivery of the information.

I have a design I want to turn into earrings, but I can't find a away to attach them to a stud.

I know you said you were using Bambu Slicer, but PrusaSlicer has an option torus (donut) shape in the Add Shape Modifiers. I use it on keychains.

Nicely done, I am also a big fan of Tinerkercad. If you wanted to make more you could make a solid bottom and increase the hole size slightly.

That turned out really nice. When you are printing something that small you might want to try the 0.2mm nozzle. It produces an even finer surface finish.

I have both the MK4 and a MK3S+. I would like to add the MMU3 to at least on of them. I use the MK4 for items that need a better "finish" and probably use it more that the MK3. The MK3 does chug away doing bulk stuff and overflow when the MK4 gets too busy. Given a similar setup would you go with the MMU3 for the MK3 or the MK4? I've been leaning towards the MK3 but could use some input.

As of last week, I have had my MK4 for 54 days and printed 507 hours, laying down 3.8km filament. Got it as a kit with MMU3 and enclosure. Even with the most recent firmware, I have not noticed anything out of the ordinary. The few fails I have had have all been my own stupidity - like not closing the parts cooler after inserting magnets into my model, thus causing collision with the gantry, layer shift and then head collision alert... However, Input shaper does seem to create odd artifacts. This is mostly seen when printing straight parts like gridfinity boxes and the like. It's usually just cosmetic and when printing in the speed profile.

Turn on variable layer height :D

Yeah... Good luck with that awesome idea. You'll probably forget about it, they're looking for a new topic for their shallow and thematically tacky videos.

Is there any option to purchase your 3D miniature models?

I didn’t see a speed comparison

This is a little pain when printing each plate separately to get parts of different colors. I'm developed an add-on for A1 mini for exact this use-case. You just hit print and all your plates get printed one by one and ejected in front of the printer. Let me know if you want to try and review. Like your channel and would love to collaborate. :)

An easy trick to keep stuff from sliding around would be to sit the model on a CLEAN sheet of sand paper. Obviously don't slide the model around on the sand paper.

Teaching Tech recommendations de-stringing with a torch in his "Jankiest 3D printing tips that actually work" video. I think I'll try a heatgun first. But others say it works great and is easy to do.

Thanks for the video. Can you do the same test with the Prusa XL ? I plan to skip adding a MMU to my MK4 and go for the XL because if the multimaterial suppor. But waste reduction would be another reasin

I realise it's a Catch 22 (pun intended) but it would have been fun to see it printed on the A1 mini 😀

Trick for super glue to avoid white spots. Use CA kicker or put a fan blowing in it. This helps move the fumes away as it dries

Genial ppr q tengo q armar la mia

Please Note that this Process is different for the XL 5 head.

Someone should try to change filament change gcode on bambu to work in same way as in case of MMU. There is a lot of filament left in hotend when bambu makes cut so in order to change color, extruder has to push a lot of old filament out of hotend, resulting in a lot of waste material. It would be much less when bambu would work same as MMU, lowering temperature and pulling out filament and then loading next filament and priming nozzle with that new filament by printing on purge block

I know others have already suggested auto rewind, and I concur. My auto rewind setup is exactly what you were trying to accomplish by removing the buffer and has been 100% reliable

I use the conveyor belt system with a garbage bag mounted on the front for my A1 and the A1 mini has the conveyor belt system hanging off the left side of the same table into another bag

A very nice and cute solution. It might have some problems to catch the poo on higher prints. Personally I got my Prusa Mini enclosure last week, and I use it for the A1 mini. As the poo shoots against the acrilic panel now and falls straight down, I just put a tray left to the A1 mini to catch it. Actually the A1 mini fits perfectly inside the Prusa mini enclosure. Just had to use longer bowden tubes (and have either to press "retry" on load or push the filament in manualy, as the printer expects shorter tubes, no problem at all) and use an extension cable for the AMS light. The AMS light now sits on top of the Prusa Mini enclosure, easy to access. Much less space consuming.

Looks cool and functional... Thanks for the tip and link on the wellbond glue. I have it in my cart. I really like Gloop, but very expensive and unless you use it quickly it goes bad in the container.

Your voice sounds so much like Kristen Schaal! ❤

That is great and funny too. 👍🏻 I simply use a little square printed bucket on the desk and then a 3d printed clip on deflector to keep the poop from flinging too far.

you can use adaptive layer height to take care of those large layers on the eyes

That turned out so well! I use a much more mundane catcher, but I find when I am using the 0.2 nozzle that a lot of times the waste gets caught between the printhead and the print bed. Basically it just jumps over the arm as the print is pushing the waste out.

good video and thanks. A tip for you, the stepping on the tops, have you tried using adaptive layering on them, it helps.

Great Idea! Looks also sweet

I love the idea of 3D printed marble runs. I would like to find some that could be pieced together to make different paths. Kind of like what Zach Freedman did with his marble game.

It's looks very good. Wish I have that space to get one.

Not only is it cumbersome, it's 40% cumbersome.

How long did it take to print that multicolor Keychain. I have been on the fence about getting an AMS for a while now, I'm and industrial designer and mainly use it for prototyping but I have been exploring the idea of using it for selling printed models. It seems like multicolor items take too long to make it profitable.

The spool holders Prusa supply are just cheap and nasty, when your spools get low in filament the spool itself gets dragged off the rollers. A better way is too put the spools on a spindle.

I think you just showed me my temporary solution until I buy an ams

Thank you so much for your honest review. Now that I see this, I can't justify spending 4K on it.

Well it sucks that it can't get as fast as a Bambu, but i still like that 5 tool head feature.

Is my understanding correct that the buffer is solving the “retracted” filament so it doesn’t tangle problem? Where the AMS solves that by rolling your spools to retract? Also full transparency I used to love Prusa but they dropped the ball on the Mk4 in price and feature comparison to other printers. Mine collects dust while my X1C with 2 AMS units prints everything

Is this feature available on P1S?

Bad job on the hairdo. Fail.

Unfortunately... I would have kept going. I think it's some sort of OCD. A nagging itch in my brain that says, "the problem is small just 1 more minute, change 1 little thing it will work". 5 hours later. Many small changes and I find out the machine is good, just some good old user error. Forgot to plug 1 thing in... Or my favorite, i once replaced a screw on my extruder mount. It went a little too far and lined up just right to prevent my hemera extruder gear from turning. A new motherboard and new extruder later not to mention countless hours of disassembling and rebuilding... only to find that 120 dollar screw... i swear it was laughing at me. Got a shorter one and I was back in business. On the plus side I got to replace the loud fans. It's all whisper quiet now.

Thanks SO much! I'm probably gonna use the motor in the kit for something else lol. Love your content btw, keep it up!

Использовать шуруповёрт как молоток это конечно больно 😅

I couldn't help noticing, but it looked like some of your print imperfections were from moisture. Do you keep your filament dry when storing? If you already are, just ignore the rest of the comment lol. If you store them in a closed container you can stick a silica packet or two inside and not worry about it. If not, you may need to find a way to pull the moisture from the filament, like a food dehydrator.

Any news on your MMU3 for the MK4? Are you still using it and how did you do the layout eventually?

Thanks

Hello, I like the filament colours, which brand are they ? Thanks

Fun print, pretty good for demonstrating that 3D printing can make functional as well as ornamental projects. My only concern (as an Electronics Engineer) is that electric motors make a lot of electrical noise, which I would prefer not to feedback into an expensive laptop. Ikea USB chargers are pretty good and not stupidly expensive, but any spare charger should be fine for this.

I really like what they do with these kits ! It’s actually really inspiring to see working machines come together from so little !