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With the camera on the outside, I wonder if you could just fix a photography circular polarizer filter on the plexiglas to minimize the reflection. Which build plate did you use to print the huge boxes, the corners are always tough to print for such geometries.

"im not sure exactly what this is supposed to be testing" typical woman

Very kind of you, thank you!

I am scared right now. Using a prusa mini+ now... telling alexa to preheat (takes roughly 1.25minutes) and after hitting print in prusa slicer the bed level starts (takes 40 seconds) All in all 2min10sec and it starts printing! When pre heated my prints start in 45 seconds...

Some people will never understand it, and in addition, some will never admit they didn't understand it. It's kinda funny, except their ignorant unfavorable reviews affect the rating of the product.

You should have an intelligence test before people can purchase the files. I'm so glad that I am retired and do this as a hobby. People tell me that I could sell my prints, but then it would be a job and have different expectations. Good luck to you and hope you have great success. Your prices seem very reasonable, should keep the pirates at bay

Big thanks for posting this. Your video is by far the best I have seen. This saved me much time and confusion. 😊

Hey, I also put my first design up for sale this week! What I was annoyed was the large percentage of the price they charged… much more than a physical good. It is over 20% of the sale! Also tried printables (which for what I sell works well), they charge a similar percentage.

Do not put 3mf files in zip files. This gives wierd behaviur for some programs like 7zip, because 3mf files are zips files. Instead offer 3 files for each design: * 3mf for Bambu * 3mf for Prusa * zip with all STL files

I know your frustration too well. I sell 3D prints on Etsy, mainly displays for collectibles and toys. People just don't read and thought the item they were receiving was the collectible. I had to set up a mandatory option in my listings, "Have you read the product description?" and if not, it tells them to go read it. It's certainly helped, but a few still slip through the cracks and just mark "yes" without reading.

The thing errors out when checking out and says "We cannot process your order. Your order total is too low to be completed." It wants to charge 1 cent

Do you get a lot of sells with files to make it worth it? One thing I've always been worried with is people buying it to then sell the items to others, or give it away or sell the file themselves

Some of these customers should have their credit cards taken away...

That is a very kind offer. I will give that a try. I hope you have a great 2025!

Yes, Tis the time of year for this kind of customer. Luckily enough 99% have been great.

Pictures pictures pictures are the key for issues like this take screen shots of the files on a build plate with message you can arrange your own files on your printer like this. NOW i see the problem when you take the step to pay with like paypal for example it shows on the screen "shipping and payment" it should not display a address it should say Instant download in place of the address. Customer may be thinking oh they are shipping me a product see there address on the screen I would reach out to ETSY about this

Hey there - just sent a note over to you on Etsy re checkout. Not sure if they’ll allow you to respond back or how they lock down communications but wanted to let you know what I ran into checking out. Thx!

@TADA 3D Printing Nice gesture!

ill leave a review, i serll on etsy i know the struggle

yup people are dumb af its ridiculous

Thank you so much for this! I didn't want to print a lid and still waiting on my AMS. I'm know the AMS will keep it sealed and stay dry with the packets but not sure if it actually dries it and if I need to get a separate dryer.....would you know?

Just got my BL printer and am printing this now, currently on the second plate. Any idea why it creates the seemingly unnecessary extra block tower in the back? It didn’t make that for the bottom (plate 1) so i’m not sure what the purpose is for it, seems like a big waste of filament.

Thanks, just got the MMU3. Open source is my only real requirement, plus the reduced waste. Thanks for the nice demo!

Thank you for this. After replacing the Thermistore and general cleaning/maintenance, I inserted the plug of the filament sensor at the upper row of the pins. Auto load not working; triple checked everything, contacted Prusa support, and sent pictures of the plug, and they suspected the sensor. Thanks to YOU, I'm not going to buy a new sensor tomorrow. Thanks again.😀😀😀😄

IMPORTANT note here: my friends have 3D printers from prusa and we were printing huge amount of the same parts, so we decided to do some speed printing comparison, mainly between the prusa mini and the prusa MK3S. The MK3S is faster and brings more precision to the build even during high speeds, WHEN you let them run faster. the prusa mini cannot be sped up so much as the MK3S, and even in speeds that it does allow, the printing quality does not match the MK3S. Not fully sure, but i am confident that it has to do something with (at least in my mind) pretty stupid flimsy design of the mini, that does not support the printing head so well and allows for more movement, especially during high speed/accelerations of the mechanism. compared to that, the MK3 or MK4 basically don´t have any play at all, which allows them to print way faster. they probably restricted the speed, and for a good reason, not only the print quality takes a big hit, but also it might significantly increase wear of the mechanism, whereas the double supported MK3S and MK4S are not suffering from such problems.

Have you seen the MMU3 with the enclosure for the MK4, It looks like a mini XL. All together. its in the assemble 6A. Hinged Lid with MMU3.

also, you should consider using silicone socks. They keep the heatsink much cleaner

you can read the nozzle-size in the nozzle-head: 3 dots = 0.4, 4 dots = 0.6

I have seen more and more bad printing, bad firmware and bad reviews, bad stringing, with no solutions apart from smaller nozels, lower temp, thought they would of sorted this by now, so grateful for your honesty with this machineI have now cancelled my order.

just ordered one of these, glad i found your video, great tutorial, better than most who just want to show them selves, thanks

Sent ya an email about one of the mmu3’s :)

Why would you delete the pieces instead of just using multiple plates in the slicer?

I replaced my Bambu Labs X1C with this exact same set up. Huge improvement. For many, many reasons I encourage everyone to NOT buy and X1C. Some people will have gotten lucky or not use it enough to wear it out but almost universally at around the eight to nine month mark it starts breaking expensive bits that need replacements you can only get from one source which is persistently out of stock of the most important parts and circuit boards. The fact that these expensive replacement parts are out of stock so often should tell you all you need to know about the long term reliability of Bambu's products. Sorry, the anger over being took by Bambu is hard to get over. Anyway, this set up. I have even less space than you do and have the enclosure as well. I also do not like leaving my filament out to the open air like that. I live in Western Massachusetts and our humidity swings wildly these days. I built a dry box that holds the five rolls on bearings like yours are sitting on inside the box. The box opens from the front and the opening has a weather strip all around so when it's closed and latched it keeps the outside air out. There's enough room for a tiny dehumidifier to sit in the box as well. I mean nothing is going to make changing five rolls of filament fun with this sort of set up but as I didn't have the three grand extra for an XL with all five printheads it will do nicely. Being on the shelf above leaves a nice graceful curve for the tube so the filament doesn't have any drastic bends. Edit: If you are not the sort to build things with wood and plastic there is a dry box made for this available on aliexpress for about sixty bucks. It's not made by Prusa but it is in there colors so at least it will visually match.

My god, you have a severe case of the most annoying vocal fry I've ever heard.

Just out of curiosity why did you call the website "world maker" when its actually called ((( maker world ))) ??? Ps it really doesn't matter just curious because what you called it is not correct.🙂👍✌️

I have the MMU3 on my MK4 and I find I am also not using it as much. I tend to use my MK4 for TPU and Clear PETG prints and my two BambuLab X1C for most of my multi-color prints. I have also built several Box Turtles which are open source AMS-like systems for printers running Klipper. The MK4 w/MMU3 is a great setup but the need for a buffer and placement of spools seems to take up more space.

Hi there! Thanks for the video, I am about to buy an MMU3 and the footprint was something I had not considered. I will still buy it but while it arrives I'll have to find it a good spot! Have you had any problems with print failures? Have you upgraded to mk4S high flow nozzle (mk4S)? Thanks!

Excellent video! Sorry for the lengthy comment in advance. I was initially leaning toward the Prusa XL, thinking it would finally meet my needs, but after watching your video, I’m now unsure about whether it’s the right choice for my specific requirements. To give you some context, what I primarily need from a 3D printer isn’t necessarily speed, but precision. I often prototype intricate parts that must fit together with tight tolerances, so accuracy is key. I was initially drawn to the Prusa XL for its build volume, which I thought would be ideal, as my typical print heights range from 2” (50mm) to a maximum of 14” (356mm). While I mostly work with single-color prints, I’m also open to multi-color or multi-material options when needed, like the XL promises. However, the most critical aspect for me is achieving a smooth surface finish akin to SLA prints, but without the associated hassle of maintaining an SLA printer. I’ve heard that the Prusa XL’s slicer now includes the Arachne perimeter generator, which promises improved print quality, and that was something I found promising. Based on your extensive experience with various machines, I’d love to hear your thoughts on which printer would best meet these needs. Specifically, I’m looking for precision, ease of use, and the ability to deliver professional quality prototypes, without the maintenance demands of an SLA system. I trust your judgment and would greatly appreciate any suggestions or guidance on what to consider next in my search. Should I keep waiting or should I take the plunge? Thanks again for all the valuable content you create, it’s been a huge help!

Skill issue... That said, it makes sense, if you're running a business, you need to be able to offload work, and if you can't, that's a valid reason to not use a product, even if it would work well for somebody else.

Got any idea how many hours you have on the MK3S+?

Man. I wish I could.

Yep! But it's safer than many other addictions!

Thanks for posting your experience!

If you want plug and play, its maybe not for you, but with a bit of thinkering you can make it use up less space, and also eliminate the buffer 😊 Just buy an Ikea Lack table for 10€, print 4 leg extenders and put the spools and the buffer over the printer. You dont even has to enclose it if you dont need an enclosure, hovewer, you absolutely can. One more thing, you dont even need the buffer. You can use rewind rollers. Most of the shared models doesnt work, dont have good slipping clutch mechanism, or they are bulky. But currently I am designing a spool holder for the Ikea lack table, which has compact, good looking RELIABLY WORKING auto rewind rollers, with precisely adjustable clutch slipping force. So the buffer will be completely eliminated, and the filament will be placed on the rollers. So there will be as little fiddling with the filament swaps as possible. So far the rollers are done, I am now working on the design of the frame, with a second row of filament holders. So it will be possible to put 5 spools to actively rewind rollers, and 5+ space for 5 additional spools just to have them near by 😊 I will share the final design when done and put the link here if someone is interested.

I had an MMU2S, and it wasn't great. I upgraded to the MMU3 for my MK3S+, and it wasn't great. I upgraded to the MK4S, and it is great. It just works. I am working to get rid of the buffer with rewinding spool holders, which will minimize the footprint :)

You are finally opening your eyes, prusa's mmu is not as good as bambu's ams that waste of space and time loading filaments are so problematic when in Bambu's ams is so fast and the Bambu is a finished good inventory not a skeleton ams like prusa's, greetings and happy holidays.

I did the same. I sold my MMU3 with my Mk4S (upgraded Mk4) and replaced it with another P1S combo. Just for your info I sold them for around $700 and had someone pick it up locally.

The filamentalist reminder could be your solution, together with its enclosure!

Filament swapping is needed in 3D printing, we are seeing a remarkable change in the products being offered. The problem is that many just barely work and have problems. I like the approach that Prusa took with the XL. Mine has swapped heads with no problems, but I have had too many jams in the nextruder. I swapped all of the nozzles with the Phaetus SiC Nextruder version and everything has been working. My Bambu X1C with the AMS is great when it works, and I try to design prints with color changes on layers, resulting in much fewer swaps and less wasted time and plastic. I just received a Co Print system that is interesting, one head, but separate extruders feeding into a funnel going to the nozzle. In a few years we will have much better solutions.

I would be tempted but since I have the XL I can use that for any multi-color prints that I need to do. It's not a business for me so I don't need to be doing multiple multi-color prints at the same time like you do. I do think that there's a real opportunity here for somebody to design a solution that works better for the MMU3. It seems like that piece that mounts on the printer is solid, so a compact setup for the spools with rewinders instead of the buffer seems like it would really slim the whole configuration down. I have to think that Prusa is looking at doing this with the Core One. They showed it with an MMU3 mounted but you had to take the top of the printer off. That only makes sense to me if they're going to put a new spool holder on top.