Wieder ein sehr schönes Video und ein guter Fortschritt 👍 Ich bewundere immer wieder deine Geduld, Genauigkeit selbst bei kleinsten Details. Freu mich schon auf das nächste Video und LG aus Deutschland von Holger 🙂🙂
Hello, allow me to make 2 suggestions: 1} Magnetizing your screw driver will allow you to directly pick up the screw with it and make it easier to target the screw hole. This can be done with a special tool or by simply putting one of these small, powerful magnets on the rear end of the screw driver's metal part..2} Dipping the point of the screws in some oil is a game changer, the screws will go in much easier. Also, you might want to drive the screws in partially, then turn them back out slightly before driving them in again. This alternation between movements helps the screw to better cut its way into the metal.Hopefully this will help you avoid breaking more screws. Good job, thank you for the videos. Marc
Thanks for that Marc. Why didnt I think about magnetizing the screw driver? So simple. My issue is I have a number of different screw driver bits and while they are all about the right size, some work better than others.
Enjoying your build videos very much. I have just completed this build, and it is an excellent model marred by such appalling instructions. The fuel lines as being installed aren’t correct though. They shouldn’t feed above parts DC-4 and 38z They should feed laterally between part DCA-32 and under parts DC-2 and 3, and then rise up outside of DC-4 and DC-38 in the gap between these and parts DCA-35 and 36 and connect to the injectors NI-9 and 10 such that they are diagonal longitudinally. Refer to the Haynes manual for the 72D, it’s an excellent reference, particularly in view of the poor instructions! Hope that this helps! Best wishes David
Hi: Yes I realized my mistake (after the fact). 😖I did pick up the Haynes book; hopefully I can avoid further mistakes! I'm pretty sure my cat could write better instructions than whoever at Pocher does it! 😼Appreciate the comments & support! 🙂
@@splashbakermodelbuilding It’s easy to do, as the instructions were in this regard completely absent! I had several issues due to the instructions! I watched the Hornby documentary on UK TV and they did a section on Pocher and the Lotus 72D. Very young chap producing 3D instructions with a very much older ‘experienced modeller’ doing the beta testing of the instructions by making the model. He picked up some errors, but I was shouting at the screen that the instructions were still diabolical, full of errors inc wrong part refs, no clear sequence of installation (so easy to fix something and then struggle to take it apart again), and so much guesswork where some parts actually went! The older chap should have been fired! Your cat would probably turn up his nose at the instructions! God help anyone who is trying to build from the supplied paper instructions and doesn’t realise the 4 part PDF update is available! Pocher should have been emailing everyone who purchased this and advising them! 🤬
@@davidgriffiths4844 I also think the kit could have been better designed & engineered, but even a fussy kit can be managed with good instructions. I did get a (global) email from Pocher about a month ago apologizing for some mistakes in the instructions and that updates were available (several months after the release mind you). Even here again, why not just provide one complete reissue pdf instead of multiple sections? idk... 🤔
Yes, the gearbox linkage (H-16) is only attached at the gearbox-end at this stage. The other end connects to the gearselector linkage that you will install in the cockpit. The two items only connect together at the stage where you join the engine/transmission assembly to the main "tub".
Thanks for the info, I wasn't quite sure. Also, H-13 shows a half circle pin, but the only open hole I have in the general vicinity of where the instructions show is a full circle so I'm not sure if that's correct...?
@@splashbakermodelbuilding That sounds familiar, pretty sure mine could rotate in the hole in DC-6. I struggled to get the "lump" on top of H-13 to sit horizontal as it is tight against a flange in the gearbox casing directly below one the the attaching screw bosses, but it does fit.
The front end really was very difficult for me. And I had the same problem with the axle screw flanges being too small. I’m still stuck mid build waiting for a replacement exhaust header. It’s not Pocher, they have posted the part straight away. It’s the post office. It just sits in a sorting office for two weeks according to the tracking. Anyway, by your next episode you will be in front of me and I’ll be learning from your issues. Keep up the build. By the way, what screw driver and what tap set are you using. I think cutting the threads is a great idea
Hi: Yes, there are some difficult tasks and the instructions aren't the best. As far as screw drivers; I'm using Wiha (brought off Amazon) and I just bought some random tap set off Amazon. See link. My micro tap handle will hold the larger ones, but the smaller ones I'm putting in a pin vise. Hope you get your part soon! Pocher sent me a replacement part for another kit and they sent it the same day; but to your point, Royal Mail was slooowwwww.... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y38XQ3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@TheEarl47 Hi: Just send Hornby an email with the part number you need. Hornby will send it right out, but Royal Mail may take a while... Their email address is: customercare@hornby.com
Hi: Haven't gotten to the shocks yet, but based on everything else so far; kind of worried about it... I feel like this kit is unnecessarily difficult! Thanks for watching the videos and the comments! 😊 Will have some shock video soon!
@@marcelogrocha1902 Olá! Português? Se você pular para o vídeo 09, verá onde os furos para os eixos são muito grandes e o parafuso passa direto. Portanto, é necessária uma pequena lavadora. Eu não tinha, então usei apenas um pedaço de estireno. Hello! Portuguese? If you skip ahead to video 09, you will see where the holes for the axles is too big and the screw passes right through. So a small washer is needed. I did not have one so I just used a piece of styrene.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding thanks for your quick response! Understood now with video 9. It wouldn’t be possible to assemble this model without your videos! Thanks ☺️
Hi and thank you! The tap size I used in this particular video was a 1.6. The screw is 1.5 but I don't have a 1.5 (yet). The screw held using the 1.6. When I don't have the correct size tap, I usually just tap in a little and then with some oil, I let the screw cut in the last few turns. Some of Pocher screws are pretty weak especially the 'D'.
Thank you for responding, i am building the same kit following the revised instructions and they are terrible. I am fitting the seat belts but have two parts missing will have to wait until i can get them.Keep the videos coming they are awsome.
Hi: Most everything wiped off, there was some kind of oily residue on the body parts and fingerprints from where I guess someone packed it. I do have a few marks still and was wondering if Tamiya Finishing compound might work?
@@splashbakermodelbuilding I've no experience of Tamiya Finishing compound but the car polish I used (Autoglym super resin) said it was for "removal of minor scuffs and scratches". I tested it on a small area that would be hidden inside the radiator pod to give me some confidence before moving to other areas. I only had paint damage on DCA5 & 7
Hi: I had trouble with this also. I glued H13 here, but I don't actually add H16 until video #12 after the shifter linkage is in place. When you are merging the engine assembly to the body, it then makes sense on how H16 should fit.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Ah, thank you again. It's nice to know where and when certain parts fit in, so you don't start to use force and damage certain parts👍
It's a bit late in the game but the lines to the injectors should come out from under the fuel rail (the two silver plates that the injectors mount to). The instructions, even revised, are a joke. The kit overall is not worth the money. Overall, a lesson in frustration.
Hi: Yep; I realized my mistake soon after... 😔 I have done several Pocher kits and they all have awful instructions. Someone mentioned it was a breakdown between the master builder and the technical writer, not sure, but they are embarrassingly bad! Ok, that was my rant for the day! 🤐 Thanks for watching and sharing feedback.
I'm wanting this build... Is this like the IXO Porsche 917KH in the same process or is this needing painting and other things... Now I always redo the kits anyway... If you go to my U-tube channel "Robin Around Town"... You'll see what I did on the Porsche 917... Best regards...
@@splashbakermodelbuilding hi... thanks for the reply... So this basically goes together like all the other builds out there...IXO... Agora Models...Hachett Park works...etc ... Except for these from Pocher you have to cut more things off the sprues... correct... Best regards...
@@robinaroundtown...2194 Yes, it's pre-painted and yes, it's a mix of plastic and metal so you do have sprues. I personally don't like that it is pre-painted because you can't really clean up the mold lines etc... I went all out on the Pocher Aventador and it was a lot of work so just doing a regular build on this one!
Wieder ein sehr schönes Video und ein guter Fortschritt 👍
Ich bewundere immer wieder deine Geduld, Genauigkeit selbst bei kleinsten Details.
Freu mich schon auf das nächste Video und LG aus Deutschland von Holger 🙂🙂
Hello, allow me to make 2 suggestions: 1} Magnetizing your screw driver will allow you to directly pick up the screw with it and make it easier to target the screw hole. This can be done with a special tool or by simply putting one of these small, powerful magnets on the rear end of the screw driver's metal part..2} Dipping the point of the screws in some oil is a game changer, the screws will go in much easier. Also, you might want to drive the screws in partially, then turn them back out slightly before driving them in again. This alternation between movements helps the screw to better cut its way into the metal.Hopefully this will help you avoid breaking more screws.
Good job, thank you for the videos.
Marc
Thanks for that Marc. Why didnt I think about magnetizing the screw driver? So simple. My issue is I have a number of different screw driver bits and while they are all about the right size, some work better than others.
Hi: You are definitely right - oil goes a long way in helping cut the threads if you don't tap! Good suggestions! Thanks! 🙂
Enjoying your build videos very much. I have just completed this build, and it is an excellent model marred by such appalling instructions. The fuel lines as being installed aren’t correct though. They shouldn’t feed above parts DC-4 and 38z They should feed laterally between part DCA-32 and under parts DC-2 and 3, and then rise up outside of DC-4 and DC-38 in the gap between these and parts DCA-35 and 36 and connect to the injectors NI-9 and 10 such that they are diagonal longitudinally. Refer to the Haynes manual for the 72D, it’s an excellent reference, particularly in view of the poor instructions! Hope that this helps! Best wishes David
Hi: Yes I realized my mistake (after the fact). 😖I did pick up the Haynes book; hopefully I can avoid further mistakes! I'm pretty sure my cat could write better instructions than whoever at Pocher does it! 😼Appreciate the comments & support! 🙂
@@splashbakermodelbuilding It’s easy to do, as the instructions were in this regard completely absent! I had several issues due to the instructions!
I watched the Hornby documentary on UK TV and they did a section on Pocher and the Lotus 72D. Very young chap producing 3D instructions with a very much older ‘experienced modeller’ doing the beta testing of the instructions by making the model. He picked up some errors, but I was shouting at the screen that the instructions were still diabolical, full of errors inc wrong part refs, no clear sequence of installation (so easy to fix something and then struggle to take it apart again), and so much guesswork where some parts actually went! The older chap should have been fired! Your cat would probably turn up his nose at the instructions! God help anyone who is trying to build from the supplied paper instructions and doesn’t realise the 4 part PDF update is available! Pocher should have been emailing everyone who purchased this and advising them! 🤬
@@davidgriffiths4844 I also think the kit could have been better designed & engineered, but even a fussy kit can be managed with good instructions. I did get a (global) email from Pocher about a month ago apologizing for some mistakes in the instructions and that updates were available (several months after the release mind you). Even here again, why not just provide one complete reissue pdf instead of multiple sections? idk... 🤔
Finally the Lotus 72D pocher has landed in Australia 🇦🇺. I believe I ordered it back in July 2021.
Yes, the gearbox linkage (H-16) is only attached at the gearbox-end at this stage. The other end connects to the gearselector linkage that you will install in the cockpit. The two items only connect together at the stage where you join the engine/transmission assembly to the main "tub".
Thanks for the info, I wasn't quite sure. Also, H-13 shows a half circle pin, but the only open hole I have in the general vicinity of where the instructions show is a full circle so I'm not sure if that's correct...?
@@splashbakermodelbuilding That sounds familiar, pretty sure mine could rotate in the hole in DC-6. I struggled to get the "lump" on top of H-13 to sit horizontal as it is tight against a flange in the gearbox casing directly below one the the attaching screw bosses, but it does fit.
@@grahameaves3298 I'll be attempting this this week!!
The front end really was very difficult for me. And I had the same problem with the axle screw flanges being too small.
I’m still stuck mid build waiting for a replacement exhaust header. It’s not Pocher, they have posted the part straight away. It’s the post office. It just sits in a sorting office for two weeks according to the tracking.
Anyway, by your next episode you will be in front of me and I’ll be learning from your issues. Keep up the build.
By the way, what screw driver and what tap set are you using. I think cutting the threads is a great idea
Hi: Yes, there are some difficult tasks and the instructions aren't the best. As far as screw drivers; I'm using Wiha (brought off Amazon) and I just bought some random tap set off Amazon. See link. My micro tap handle will hold the larger ones, but the smaller ones I'm putting in a pin vise. Hope you get your part soon! Pocher sent me a replacement part for another kit and they sent it the same day; but to your point, Royal Mail was slooowwwww....
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y38XQ3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had the same issue with the axle screw head being too small, luckily I had a couple of very small washers I could use.
Hi I need a replacement part. How did you acquire yours
@@TheEarl47 Hi: Just send Hornby an email with the part number you need. Hornby will send it right out, but Royal Mail may take a while... Their email address is: customercare@hornby.com
Do you have video of how to hook up rear shocks? I hooked mine up and they are awfully sloppy. Love your videos
Hi: Haven't gotten to the shocks yet, but based on everything else so far; kind of worried about it... I feel like this kit is unnecessarily difficult! Thanks for watching the videos and the comments! 😊 Will have some shock video soon!
I needed a couple of mini washers (that luckily I had) to screw in the axle/brakes. The screw heads otherwise went right through the frame hole.
Yes, exactly my problem or at least one of them... 😂 I'll see what I have in the parts bin; I hope I have some.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding for a non-English speaking… what are the “mini washers”? Thanks
@@marcelogrocha1902 Olá! Português? Se você pular para o vídeo 09, verá onde os furos para os eixos são muito grandes e o parafuso passa direto. Portanto, é necessária uma pequena lavadora. Eu não tinha, então usei apenas um pedaço de estireno.
Hello! Portuguese? If you skip ahead to video 09, you will see where the holes for the axles is too big and the screw passes right through. So a small washer is needed. I did not have one so I just used a piece of styrene.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding thanks for your quick response! Understood now with video 9. It wouldn’t be possible to assemble this model without your videos! Thanks ☺️
Brilliant video what is the size of the thread tap you are using thanks.
Hi and thank you! The tap size I used in this particular video was a 1.6. The screw is 1.5 but I don't have a 1.5 (yet). The screw held using the 1.6. When I don't have the correct size tap, I usually just tap in a little and then with some oil, I let the screw cut in the last few turns. Some of Pocher screws are pretty weak especially the 'D'.
Thank you for responding, i am building the same kit following the revised instructions and they are terrible. I am fitting the seat belts but have two parts missing will have to wait until i can get them.Keep the videos coming they are awsome.
@@VENOM12572 Thank you! Sorry to hear you are missing parts and yes, the instructions are just awful considering the price of the kit!
Re the paintwork marks at 5:00, did they just wipe off ? I had to polish some similar marks out with car paint polish
Hi: Most everything wiped off, there was some kind of oily residue on the body parts and fingerprints from where I guess someone packed it. I do have a few marks still and was wondering if Tamiya Finishing compound might work?
@@splashbakermodelbuilding I've no experience of Tamiya Finishing compound but the car polish I used (Autoglym super resin) said it was for "removal of minor scuffs and scratches". I tested it on a small area that would be hidden inside the radiator pod to give me some confidence before moving to other areas. I only had paint damage on DCA5 & 7
Hello, which collection are you making this model from?
Where and how did you exactly attach the H13 and H16 part shown at 3.59. It's a bit of problem here.
Hi: I had trouble with this also. I glued H13 here, but I don't actually add H16 until video #12 after the shifter linkage is in place. When you are merging the engine assembly to the body, it then makes sense on how H16 should fit.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Ah, thank you again. It's nice to know where and when certain parts fit in, so you don't start to use force and damage certain parts👍
It's a bit late in the game but the lines to the injectors should come out from under the fuel rail (the two silver plates that the injectors mount to). The instructions, even revised, are a joke. The kit overall is not worth the money. Overall, a lesson in frustration.
Hi: Yep; I realized my mistake soon after... 😔 I have done several Pocher kits and they all have awful instructions. Someone mentioned it was a breakdown between the master builder and the technical writer, not sure, but they are embarrassingly bad! Ok, that was my rant for the day! 🤐 Thanks for watching and sharing feedback.
Building this kit is a disaster. Pocher should be deeply ashamed launching such bad quality.
I'm wanting this build...
Is this like the IXO Porsche 917KH in the same process or is this needing painting and other things...
Now I always redo the kits anyway...
If you go to my U-tube channel "Robin Around Town"...
You'll see what I did on the Porsche 917...
Best regards...
Hi: I usually like to enhance kits as well, but not this one - just doing box stock this go around! Will check out your Porsche. 🙂
@@splashbakermodelbuilding hi... thanks for the reply...
So this basically goes together like all the other builds out there...IXO... Agora Models...Hachett Park works...etc ...
Except for these from Pocher you have to cut more things off the sprues... correct...
Best regards...
@@robinaroundtown...2194 Yes, it's pre-painted and yes, it's a mix of plastic and metal so you do have sprues. I personally don't like that it is pre-painted because you can't really clean up the mold lines etc... I went all out on the Pocher Aventador and it was a lot of work so just doing a regular build on this one!