Nice start to the build. Mine is currently halted due to missing ignition leads... I have also painted my yellow parts, in fact I've painted everything... I also had an issue on the right side. The screw or hub is too short. i think we messed up because we tapped our threads?
I plan to paint all the larger parts, probably satin black and maybe aluminum. I think I got all the yellow done. I haven't had any trouble with tapped threads. I had the one piece that was too short for the slot and didn't even go in enough to reach the screw. It just seems like that part is just too short. Once the engine is complete, I might do some drybrush and wash detailing.
Hi Splash... I found that the 24 pink plug wires (tubing) are very challenging to attach to the cylinder heads. Put some of the JSP Insta-Set in a small syringe and squeezed a couple of drops on the glued up tubing. Worked very well.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Not yet. Any suggestions? Also, found a problem on step 4, page 10, of the manual. The F screws (2.3 x 4 mm) securing the triangular pieces to frame are too short. Ordered a set of tiny electronic screws from Amazon. I'll start another subassembly while waiting for the screws.
Hi: Thank you! I use Bob Smith (BSI) Maxi-Cure CA glue and I often use Bob Smith (BSI) Insta-Set to cure the CA instantly. The Insta-Set evaporates pretty quickly, also wipes up cleanly so I've never had an issue with overspray. I've had good results using these. On occasion; I have used two part epoxy, like Devcon 5 minute or other CA glues like Loctite, but BSI is my fave!
Hi Slash, I was going to say," so far so good" but then the short screw happened, I'm curious, what are the amended instructions for? which part? and I think the gold looks much better than the pale yellow.
Hi: I did not compare the original to the amended to find out what was incorrect in the original, but knowing Pocher, there were numerous mistakes and still knowing Pocher, there will also be mistakes in the amended version. The very first part I tried to attach, the screw wasn't long enough to reach the part. It was fine on the other side though. I've looked at pics of the original engine and just can't really decide what color it really is so I took a little creative license...
I'm struggling with the colour of the glass fibre parts. I wish Pocher had moulded them in a translucent plastic. As it stands, they look nothing like the parts on the real car, which were a pale yellowish hue as far as I can see.
Hi: Totally agree! Perhaps if the parts had been molded in clear and then we could have put a thinned or clear yellow light coat on. In looking at pictures, the parts (on the real car) seem to darken with age, probably due to dirt. But regardless of color, once you take the part off the sprue and clean it, it takes off color so I felt I needed to paint it something. I like the Vallejo Polished Gold even if it's not precisely accurate.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding You're right: every photograph I have shows a slightly different colour. It seems to be a bit rough and ready on the real car. I think I'll just go with what's provided, or thereabouts.
Good to see you have started the 917!
Welcome Back !!
Nice start to the build. Mine is currently halted due to missing ignition leads... I have also painted my yellow parts, in fact I've painted everything... I also had an issue on the right side. The screw or hub is too short. i think we messed up because we tapped our threads?
I plan to paint all the larger parts, probably satin black and maybe aluminum. I think I got all the yellow done. I haven't had any trouble with tapped threads. I had the one piece that was too short for the slot and didn't even go in enough to reach the screw. It just seems like that part is just too short. Once the engine is complete, I might do some drybrush and wash detailing.
Hi Splash...
I found that the 24 pink plug wires (tubing) are very challenging to attach to the cylinder heads. Put some of the JSP Insta-Set in a small syringe and squeezed a couple of drops on the glued up tubing. Worked very well.
Hi: I had the same problem on the last model so good suggestion. Did you create any looms for your wiring?
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Not yet. Any suggestions?
Also, found a problem on step 4, page 10, of the manual. The F screws (2.3 x 4 mm) securing the triangular pieces to frame are too short.
Ordered a set of tiny electronic screws from Amazon. I'll start another subassembly while waiting for the screws.
Magnificent work! Just a simple question, what kind of glue do you use for metal parts?
Hi: Thank you! I use Bob Smith (BSI) Maxi-Cure CA glue and I often use Bob Smith (BSI) Insta-Set to cure the CA instantly. The Insta-Set evaporates pretty quickly, also wipes up cleanly so I've never had an issue with overspray. I've had good results using these. On occasion; I have used two part epoxy, like Devcon 5 minute or other CA glues like Loctite, but BSI is my fave!
Hi Slash, I was going to say," so far so good" but then the short screw happened, I'm curious, what are the amended instructions for? which part? and I think the gold looks much better than the pale yellow.
Hi: I did not compare the original to the amended to find out what was incorrect in the original, but knowing Pocher, there were numerous mistakes and still knowing Pocher, there will also be mistakes in the amended version. The very first part I tried to attach, the screw wasn't long enough to reach the part. It was fine on the other side though. I've looked at pics of the original engine and just can't really decide what color it really is so I took a little creative license...
I'm struggling with the colour of the glass fibre parts. I wish Pocher had moulded them in a translucent plastic. As it stands, they look nothing like the parts on the real car, which were a pale yellowish hue as far as I can see.
Hi: Totally agree! Perhaps if the parts had been molded in clear and then we could have put a thinned or clear yellow light coat on. In looking at pictures, the parts (on the real car) seem to darken with age, probably due to dirt. But regardless of color, once you take the part off the sprue and clean it, it takes off color so I felt I needed to paint it something. I like the Vallejo Polished Gold even if it's not precisely accurate.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding You're right: every photograph I have shows a slightly different colour. It seems to be a bit rough and ready on the real car. I think I'll just go with what's provided, or thereabouts.
On the actual car those yellowish parts are a translucent yellow, near see through.
Do you know what the original material was on the real car?
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Pretty certain it's a raw polyester resin fibreglass. That typically has that yellowish tinge.
Hi again Splash...
Thinking about buying the Scale Auto Works Mercedes 300SLR.
Do you have any experience with this company?
Thanks in advance!
@@williamcook2027 Hi: No I don’t. Are they a model distributor or do they make their own kits?