Great video! It cannot be stressed enough - installation, installation, installation! Insulation is only as good as the installation- as with most processes in construction. The gaps at the rafters are not deficiencies in the insulation- rather the installation. This contractor obviously did not care and is an easy job to pick apart. Unfortunately when it comes to insulation people only seem to care about how little they can pay. There will always be someone who will do it for less, and you end up getting what you pay for in the end. Thanks Jordan!
I've been spraying 2lb Sprayfoam insulation for 8 years in Canada...works great and haven't had major issues. It looks to me like he tried to spray 4" at once or was spraying too hot....you shouldn't spray thicker than 2" per pass. spraying too thick will cause the foam to 'burn ' in the middle and will kill your density and R value
on a side note here.... that was 1/2 lb. foam not 2lb. you can apply 1/2 lb thicker as long as your not blowing back the material. you are however correct in saying that about the 2lb foam. and on another side note.... i did the spray foam for over 10 years in the states. and none of my jobs never looked that shitty. whoever did that job was not trained properly.
Personally from my experience I think it happened to me only when it was so cold outside that when spraying..the cold reacts with the hot temperatures from the foam and makes it pull away like this... never happened with closed cell. (I’ve only been spraying for almost a year so I’m not so experienced yet! 😁)
I know little about Spray Foam , but looking at it. It looks like a lot of uneven logs( sprayed) where it does bond well to what was sprayed. I hope i have described that? Sprayed tooooo cold? Not like what I watched from Spray Foam Jones.
XL spray foam you can spray up to 8 inches open cell the closed cell is the one that you can't spray more the 4 inches but now is a lot of options of chemical that you can spray more than 4" closed cell ...you got no clue what you're talking about i been spraying since i was 22 years old im 40 now f you need to know more about foam come to north carolina the problem on this particular job is moisture you need to heat the house with all Windows open for 30 min to an hr and then closed the windows heat the house keep the heater close to the are were you going to start to spray and you never gonna have that problem..
A good "on...the Build Show" tagline at the end. Another great video by Jordan. That cup at the end was crazy. We could see the sprayer did a poor job, but that is next level. Finally, not being sarcastic, I genuinely like the word "overneath" you used. I want to work that into my lexicon.
LOL! I didn't know Taco bell made concrete additives & air sealing products. I guess that will Taco Bell restaurants take over entirely the fast food sector in a few years (reference to Demolition Man Movie)
That failure looks like application direction. Remember on your ride along foam videos the ‘operator’ (your word not mine) stayed the first shot on the 45 to the corner all the way around. Just like other sealants it’s important to have the bond into the corner and on both the sheet and the stud. Really not sure why more crews aren’t two people. Four eyes, someone to hold spray shields. The difficulty is that adhesion from the foam is from expanding into the cavity. Spray pattern is really important
We went all through this in Canada in the '80s. After sealing the house up, you have to incorporate air to air heat exchangers in order to exchange all the air in the house depending on local code and circumstances. Do you have five dogs? More air changes. Under the sills we staple a "sill-plate gasket" before standing the wall up. But stick-frame should be used when you live near a sawmill. Otherwise, masonry is becoming the structural material for low rise buildings when it's thermal mass is captured inside the envelope. We have to leave the trees standing whenever possible.
Have been anxious to hear your thoughts of Off-Gassing and Long Term Risks of these products and what we should consider when using for our applications
Arshaad Yar - considering these foams were developed for NASA, who has insanely strict requirements on off-gassing, it isn’t very hard to find that these foams are totally safe *_if_* used properly.
TheEarthDoctor1 sigh you made one good point. Andthat was the other point the rest are blatant lies. First off all they do not keep offgasing when mixed properly and applied properly the finished result is chemically inert. Yes they are toxic in a fire but so is cellulose and fiberglass insulation (Rockwool is not toxic in a fire, only fire rates insulation) They are no more problematic during demolition than most other construction material including plywood. The dust of fully cured spray foam isn’t even harmful (Beyond regular construction dust, cement dust and rile is much worse for your health) You say you doubt you’ll see contractors recycling the bits. And your point is?!?!?! Do you think they recycle Fiberglas insulation? No. Rockwool? No. Cellulose? No. Expanded or extruded polystyrene? No. So what’s your point? What part of construction is recyclable? I install recycle roofing, and I I’m pretty sure only about 1 percent or less of construction companies do. Or do you think anything besides metal is typically recycled in a demolition? Lol and even then it’s really only like copper. I don’t know what fantasy world you live in. Btw I don’t even install foam insulation unless specifically asked by the client or by the architects plans, I recommend Rockwool it cellulose. But I just can’t stand blatant liars with an agenda. In regard to it getting in your water supply, that is a huge problem with ALL construction debris, and that is why federal fines for construction waste getting into the water supply are typically in the $100,000’s per incident. Of course those are not enforced strictly.
i actually worked with this product . after spraying was finished we would always open windows /doors to create draft for ventilation then remove masks.
Love the cup! I found one full of trash in an interior wall once! Makes you feel real good that your walls have become a garbage can :) Love the pride going in these places. That alone was probably the worst thing I saw in this video!
I was surprised that you did not mention improper curing of the spray foam when it is applied improperly (too thick, usually, but a bad mix ratio could also be problematic) or outside environmental conditions for the install (too hot or too cold).
a friend of mine who is no longer with us was on to all this stuff and MORE long ago.the BEST builder,piker, and song writer to ever live in my opion. r.i.p.my friend!
Good video-if the concrete wood interface is so prone to air leakage wouldnt it be easier and better for contractors to add adhesive or caulking directly to the foundation and then lay the rim joist onto it?
A quality installer is paramount. The guy that can read the foam as it expands, sets and a few minutes later check to see if the material has destabilized. The cell structure is another tell tale sign of the quality of the install. The shrinking foam from the studs, the shallow areas, and the cup sprayed into the wall all indicate faults of the installer. Do your homework. Find a reputable company with licensed installers that are trained to use the very brand they are installing. Anyone who is worth their salt will be able to provide a much higher quality finished product than what is on display in this video.
I did internal clay plasters myself with additional sealing here or there with cheap materials but lots of attention to detail and got 0.2 average ach50; I also designed the house with air tightness and no heat bridges insulation in mind; I used 0,5 cords of beech to heat the house this winter (the heated volume of the house is about 24000 cubic feet; temperatures outside down to -4 F and 32 F average) my stove was also used to heat the domestic water and some cooking
My Grandpa was a self employed contractor and he used to take me on jobs when I was 7-11 years old. I would make a small wooden box (like 2"x2") and put stuff in there like a small toy with my information and throw it in the cement he was pouring without him knowing, or Wright on the 2x4s that where going to be sealed off. or throw something in a pipe that was going to welded shut..... I just found it fascinating that one day maybe 100 year from now someone will tear up the cement, house or fence and find it. Kinda like the taco bell cup haha.
Good info. I just walked a home being built by Meritage and the foam insulation has many areas where there is 3 inches left to fill the foam to the stud and I found 2 spots with gaps large enough that I could put my hand in and touch the foam exterior lath. This might pass minimum occupancy by the city inspector but definitely not up to par. You should do a video on what the difference is between building a home to industry quality standard vs minimum occupancy vs building a quality home.
You and a couple other channels have me rolled over on doing spray foam in my travel trailer build. My drawings, my welding, my drilling and riveting the Alum skin, ....... You guys rock with effective energy efficiency ideas!! My target is to heat and nightlight my trailer with a candle in mild winters here in N Tx and to use A/C only when outdoors gets above 90. Spray-in foam is the $ effective, time efficient, structural stiffener that foil laminated foamboard is not. Thanks for your perspective!
He found the last builders trophy. XD I always find that fun. Found a wine cork stuck to a stud with a nail. Thats how you know your builders are proud! Not sure what to think of a taco bell cup haha.
The US needs to learn a lot from other countries to simplify the process of building houses that are not full of volatile organic compounds, chemicals, and other synthetic stuff that turn into ash the moment they catch fire, are plain bad for your health, and, most importantly, too costly and time consuming.
Pro clima products work really well for air sealing. Contega HF works great in stud bays between studs and outside sheeting and tescon vana tape works well for flat sealing seams. They also have great membranes for interior and exterior.
I live in Florida. Our spray foam installation was faulty. Our builder didn't know much about spray foam and the installer apparently didn't either. Our ACH was 30 to 40 and we had mold in our attic after a year due to HVAC duct condensation dripping onto ceiling sheet rock. Every house in our brand new development had the same problem. Spray foam is only good if it's properly installed. Problem is in finding good installers.
I have been scientifically taught good spray foam acts as a vapor barrier. I know it is accepted widely in North American building to meet code and most certainly qualifies as a vapor barrier. If you deploy spray foam and then use the exterior foil membrane, you have in fact created two vapor barriers that can not breath between them. Whatever is sandwiched between the spray foam and the foil membrane will retain moisture that leads to mold and rot. Now you have a problem coming to your structure down the road. Dual vapor barriers is bad news in my experience. Most building inspectors in my area don't even know this. I have only met a handful over the years that have the education and experience to acknowledge this. That foil wrap would work proper with a loose fiber type insulation on the inside but even better: Breathable exterior sheathing over the OSB or plywood With loose batt insulation in the stud cavities Vapor barrier on the interior studs. I very rarely use spray foam insulation on any job. It has its place but under ideal building situations in new modern structures, there is no need to deploy spray foam insulation. The spray foam insulation in this TH-cam video was NOT FLASH sprayed with a wet coat prior to adjusting to the deep spray passes. This video does indeed show very poor installation of spray foam. It is not acceptable to see spray foam break away from the structure to leave gaps. If it is doing so then it is done incorrectly. I hope this home does not make its inhabitants sick in the years to come.
Yeah, it's one thing to hire a crew that doesn't pick up after themselves...another thing when they throw their trash IN YOUR WALL. Holy crap, those people need taken to the malpractice agency and scolded.
@@thomassteele-sheets7471 I've been doing work on my house and when I air sealed and reinsulated my attic I found what I like to call the previous owners "sin stash". I think the wife was fairly religious, and so stashed in the old attic insulation was a paper bag of porn from the 70's, beer bottle caps, and a box of Twinkies.
@@troyb3394 were those twinkies still any good? It could definitely bring closure to that twinkies never go bad debate. And these were from 87 at my house.
OSB looks like wet car board if it gets wet a few times this is job security for builders. Use Advantech OSB at least for the bottom 4 feet then get cheap mistint paint and paint all osb inside and out. This video shows half pound foam, all foam contractors will try to talk you into buying this because the job goes really fast, the 2 pound foam is going to cost more but a thin layer of that inside and out is the best sealer, vapor barrier and high R value and keeps the OSB from burning the house down from the built in E84 fire retardant.
What should one do before applying spray foam to an old home? Should you check for rot/ damage before spraying? What about electrical wires and pipes? Do they need to be inspected before spraying? Is it better to not spray them and use regular batting for easy access, if repair is needed? I have no insulation under my floor. The home is lifted above flood level. Basement under the home floods once every few years.
Nice info. I will definitely apply it. Can you tell me what the R value should be when doing spray foam on your roof for a closed envelope house? I have been told 3 inches of closed cell is enough. Thanks
Eric van zeyl - I know you didn’t ask me but I can help answer the question, I do spray foam and 3 inches of close cell is going to get you an r-value of 19 to 21 depending on the brand of the foam., if it was my house I would do 4 inches of closed cell to make sure you get the r-value you need in an attic.. and 2 inches in the walls.. if is open cell you can do 3 1/2 in the walls to 5 1/2 and 5 1/2 to 8 inches in the roof, depending where you live.. thanks
Just call Absolute Pro Insulation. I’ve gotten multiple blower door test with a 0.00 air flow. Pretty amazing on what the foam can do when it’s done by a Absolute Professional.
ZERO ACH is not safe or healthy. What your saying is a person could actually suffocate from a lack of oxygen in the house. Get a family in there, and unless someone opens a door or window, you'll get oxygen depletion in only a number of hours. If you reading zero ACH, I suspect you are doing something wrong in your testing.
Still trying to get a read on the long-term IAQ/Building Science aspects of the foam and things like the Alumaflash adhesive given both are essentially sealed inside the envelope.
J Healy - NASA and every other space agency have been obsessed with off-gassing for decades so modern foams and adhesives generally don’t. There is literally an almost unlimited amount of research into these materials in the relevant journals. The effects of vented crawl spaces and other barbaric practices and the nastiness they contribute *_far_* more to the air pollution of a house.
Basically in the simplest terms moisture such as humidity or damp lumber will cause the foam to cure faster reducing its expansion time cooler ambient temperature causes the foam to expand slower but if you get to cool it'll stop the reaction all together
I actually learned a lot! With so many people talking out there,, He was easy to listen to. why do I believe him?? - well he sounds like he knows what he is talking about LOL I LOVE that he gives the whole WHY/HOW- cuz I'd be asking!!! But I believe what he is saying is true b/c he can explain it simply. ☆☆It helps that he isn't hard to look at 🌞
Hey Jordan,great content! Did ya’ll put the allumaflash because the osb was already there? Would you have gone with zip and tape if ya’ll had done it from the beginning? About to start building a home and trying to get as much knowledge as I can once I get with my builder. Thanks so much!
If it was done in stages, like foam the edge of the studs and panels first, all the way around,, the installer can check for proper adherence, then complete the first two inches all the way around, allowing time for the foam to cure. Then do the next two inches?. Of course the installer should occasionally review the manufactures manual to make sure he is following the manufactures current best practice directions.
If you like mold and rot: yes. Making a house airtight on the outside of the insulation is a really stupid idea. Even the holes in the insulation of the original house would be better because the moisture could evaporate over time. The sealing will keep it indefinitely between the frames.
Sven, I keep thinking about the house as a glass jar that I hold to my mouth and exhale into. The moisture starts collecting. You are correct. Giving credit to my expectations of that foil wrap, there's no way the interior will match the seal of the exterior. A boiled pot of water without the exhaust hood on, the same with a shower, a window left open during a rain, plumbing or roof leaks, or daily living--the house is soon a mushroom without moisture exhausting mechanicals. If the electricity goes out, a generator fails, or any component of the air exchange system goes out, let the mold begin.
How are you addressing vapor drive when you're using PolyWall Aluma Flash(typical rubberized asphalt backing membrane) with a Water Vapor Transmission of 0.014 perm(E96B) on the exterior and a closed cell foam on the interior? Essentially you've created a double vapor barrier that could potentially cause moisture entrapment issues. I'm surprised you didn't use a product like VaproShield WrapShield SA with a perm rating of 50(E96B) to allow rapid outward drying yet it boasts some of the best Air Permeance and Water Resistance among current available build wraps(WRB).
To check if its filled all you need to do is use a infrared camera/thermostat and you will be able to easily tell because of the difference in temperatures....or even poke something through it and check if the resistance stays the same until it bottoms out..then just fill the hole back in after checking
That's a good question. I wonder if a person would have to step outside you make a phone call. I work in a tin covered shop and we have horrible reception. If it's an important call I just head outside immediately. It's frustrating
Yes, it affects cell service. Rockwool does as well. We have our A/V guy install repeaters that are wired from the outside to the inside to mitigate the issue.
I think many people will start to suffer because of that foam. It is hard to understand why people nowadays agree to have something so risky in their homes. Same as it was with the asbestos where people were also told that it was completely safe if installed properly. And also with the lead paint that it was completely safe if painted and maintained properly.
Dino B. There’s foam in more things than just our homes. Look around you!! Chairs, couches, seats in your car. You can’t use filthy fiberglass for stuff like that.
I have a house built in 1890 and it is a vertical barge board house. I replaced some of them that were rotting at the base area where the sill is. Then wrapped that with black felt paper 15# I think. then added OSB 1/2". Then used two ply aluminum bubble wrap 6' H x the run of the house overlapping by 3" (bottom first then the top of course). Then added my hearty back wood themed siding on top of that. Thoughts?
Hey Matt, I am curious if the cell foam on the interior acts as a vapor retardant and you apply a second vapor retardant on the exterior will there then be the possibility of an issue developing with moisture being trapped between the two vapor restrictive layers.
Matt. We are doing a major remodel on a early 80s brick home in FL Panhandle. Nothing between the brick and studs but thermoply. We have decided to go with sprayfoam and encapsulate the house. Should we install a fresh air pipe?
Interesting here in Finland we use aluminum coated grooved foam sheets and then spray the gaps with foam which are then taped over with aluminum tape. Never even heard of using insulation foam like that though it makes a kind of sense if you have truck full of stuff to pump it in and not those tiny pistol cans. As for K values in this climate 4500mm of glass wool equals about 120mm of foam sheeting.
Does no one use sill sealer? When I was framing in the 1970's we rolled out fiberglass or foam before installing sills and shoes. One builder used caulk or adhesive instead, but that had to cost a lot more, plus the labor.
Do you use the blue product on the bottom side of the bottom plate during a new build? Or do you just use it to seal the joint from the plate to the concrete? If that is the case and you don't use it under the plate, what do you use? Thanks for the great videos!
One large problem for rural folks around the country is that it is likely there is only one (or none) spray foam contractors in their area. I have had friends living rurally do there own foam jobs...given the tendency for "mispray, mis-mix, humidity issues" I find that proposition scary! Rock wool self installed for me. R
Im not normally one to recommend litigation, but i seriously hope that home owner is speaking to a legal professional. That level of craftsmanship is borderline criminal. That builder should be ashamed
Yup. The construction superintendents we train would know to put the brakes on that job the second they observed a crew like that in-action, doing anything sub-standard. and get it fixed. Bad jobs can happen to even normally excellent sub-trades. Maybe their main guy got hurt ‘last week’ and a couple of greenhorns got in over their heads. It happens. But there is zero excuse for the builder accepting that work and worse - passing it on to the homeowner. But it was more likely the low bidder - which will never be an “A-list” sub.
It would be nice to see insulation reviews start to show and include just how effective cork can be. Also, cork has many benefits to the environment. Is renewable, carbon sink, water resistant, vapor permeable, is almost perfect as insulation.
Matt I like the many products that you show on your program, but are for the most part unavailable where I live in Northeastern Wisconsin. Primarily I'm talking about the Delta dorken products. What I need is some way to get access to these products to buy them.
I would shoot everyone suggesting an airseal on the cold side of the insulation. If the inside isn't airtight warm air with moisture will come to the outside where cools and releases the moisture = mold and rot. In the house I bought the roof was insulated with rockwoll with a a aluminium sheeting installed on the outside. It had a nice black and green ecosystem......
Don’t forget the fact that now that branch circuits and especially home runs, are totally encased in foam, you have now derated the ampacity of the wirethat no one ever addresses
This is why I refuse to use spray.... too much can go wrong. Spaces, hiding things inside, off gassing, pain in the rear to renovate....etc... I don't care about the craze, I will get the usual insulation fiberglass or other similar products. if it needs fixing or moving it can.
If using Poly Wall's Aluma flashing , I am guessing the perm rating on that product is super low, as in almost 0? Thus the wall has to be designed to dry to the interior. You should mention that. A wall assembly has to be designed to insure no failures. So before you start wrapping your house in this stuff, make sure the wall is thoughtfully designed to function appropriately. Nice vid, Matt looks different?
Silly questions?. Why is the wall baseplate not bedded on silicone caulk? Why would you not seal over the inside with polythenes sheet under the drywall?
How does AlumaFlash affect RF devices like WiFi? It looks like you made a faraday cage. Also, with a metal roof and aluminum along the edge... what would happen with a lightning strike?
Wait a minute. You took over the build? How does that happen? Did the owner fire the previous builder? I'm just curious why they decided to bring you in.
One gigantic problem with spray foam is if it doesn’t dry correctly. I watched a video out of Canada where a family spay foamed their attic while they were in the house. The foam didn’t dry properly and it off gassed an odor of rotten fish. Everyone got sick and was diagnosed with neurological issues. They had to remove the entire roof, trusses and all and have people in hasmat suits dispose of all materials. Some experts say never to use it because it is not in a controlled setting of perfect temperature and humidity. That is why I am personally unsure about using it on job sites.
Product quality is important. I know the video you watched. Proper product and proper installation and you'll have a properly insulated structure. Dont go super cheap. You get what you pay for ya know?
I don't understand how moisture/vapor is mitigated once you seal up a house tighter than the Virgin Mary's legs. How do you get the moisture from a bathroom out of a house after a couple of people have taken a shower? Don't tell me that a standard bathroom fan is enough to dry everything up.
FishOntv I’ve wondered this as well for a Northern Wisconsin Cabin we plan to build. It definitely “sticks tenaciously” ;) Only problem I was expecting was the thickness at windows and doors may be a little bit of an issue.
In my opinion too costly and time consuming. Best option is to buy the ZIP sheathing and use the ZIP tape. Its going to take considerable effort to peal and stick the membrane to all the exterior surfaces, and you cannot apply it to the OSB unless the OSB is absolutely dry (might be OK if you in a arid location, but not so nice in area that gets lots of rain.).
What I don’t like about it is that it is impossible to snake a romex through the wall at a later date... such as adding wall sconces or something like that.
What effect does nailing siding through the foil wrap have? I have done several tear offs of siding on buildings with tyvek in Vermont that were 15 to 20 yrs old and found the tyvek was extremely brittle and worthless , apparently it breaks down even without uv exposure. Can’t put foil on the outside in Vt though.
I find it interesting that "The Build Show" is now stepping back from the "spray foam is the best" bandwagon. They were pushing it just a little while ago. Everything has limitations.
My experience is unique maybe, new construction with SIPs and all, but we built a 4’ sill wall with a floating slab and put 1.5” of spray foam inside that wall to include it in the conditioned space so none of the elements can get to my beams... also made plumbing and electrical way easier. That’s the extent of my experience with the stuff...
First, the open cell that's in the walls is different than closed cell ,which would be the better choice when it comes to spray foam. Closed cell has added structure strength and superior R value but with added cost. 2nd, canned foam and two part spray foam are very different animals. So the broad brush of the video title is a little misleading. 3rd, any probably my biggest gripe, is that the foam contractor that did this job puts all other foam contractors in a poor light. Simple things like air sealing around truss heels and soffit blockers is easy but the extra time and labor to someone that is already lazy is a recipe for what happened here. ( a cup foamed over in the wall...wtf!) Foam is a very specialized trade, many many things need to be watched and taken into account. From substrate, material and ambient temps, proper pressure of the foam type being sprayed, humidity of both air and substrate etc etc. We are manufacturing polyurethane on site, so everything needs to be monitored in order to make perfectly mixed inert plastic. Remember this the next time you look for the lowest bidder.
Yup. Strong reasons to avoid spray foam. Unless the Foam guy is really good, your end up with problems. The other issue is with closed cell if you need to repair work or remodeling work in the future. Good luck trying to snake a cable or fix a plumbing leak in a closed-cell spray foam. Open cell is a moisture-water problem. You might as well just stick a wet sponge in your walls. One plumbing leak or exterior water leak and your screwed. I am sure the repair contractors love when a homeowner has to spend 3 or 4 times for a repair because of spray foam.
@@guytech7310 , Im advocating for using skilled professional spray foam installers. The issues you listed are difficult with spray foam but not unique to its use.
@@MegaCb45 Yup, but for every good pro there are a dozen that just wing it. So you got a 1 in 12 chance of finding a quality installer. I don't like odds stacked against me. FWIW: I 've also read about instances when the spray foam was not mixed correctly and the foam never fully cured. Home owners had to completely remove walls & roofs because the SF never fully cured. What a nightmare!
@@guytech7310, There's a reason top of the line refrigerators ,water heaters, coolers etc use foam...one of the best insulators available. Negligence runs rampant in any trade...
Any expertise regarding spray foaming the interior of a school bus conversion? My searches on spray foam for that project led me here and your information is so concentrated it's apparent you have WAY more in your head. What are your thoughts in terms of flex (the bus twists laterally a bit when going over bumpy roads) and the relationship between metal surfaces and spray foam. Thank you, thumbs up :-)
That stuff is likely to create MORE rigidity in my humble opinion. It sticks like glue, and with the amount of surface area contact it is likely to create a completely rigid end product even if some of the adhesion fails....and I am not sure that's a bad thing. You want the increased R value for such a project. R
We spray Van's and cargo trailers all the time, never once had an issue or call back. The spray foam will dramatically improve the structural strength and will also make it more quiet too.
Yep! Many builders are moving to 24" OC rather than 16"OC, it reduces those bridges by nearly 25%. Also, in many climates, we use exterior insulation to blanket the home.
Studs have there own r value that ,In UK, is combined in calcs to give an over all U value usually very small difference, air test makes lot more difference, in one of Matt's other videos he shows solid wood walls in Europe that perform comparably to insulated walls, just more expensive
Most new homes have continuous exterior insulation. Near the end of Jordan's video he show the home with 2" Rigid foam insulation. They use a foil backed foam board to seal up the walls since the contractor did a very poor job with the sheathing sealing. Cheaper to just seal up the foam than to redo all the sheathing work.
True. although no matter what some jobs will get done under bad conditions. There are only about 2 reliably good months, an working only when the sun shines and its not too hot, well, that shortens a guys working year down to about 40 days. It's not economical to wait until perfect (or even good) conditions are available for every process. The sun comes out and I get 100 phone calls all at once to go do concrete. From a project management standpoint, it is hard to get a spray foam guy back once you've made him wait on the weather, because he's went to do other work. The best thing is to manage the building temperature/ humidity, and get a good contractor who is prepared to work under bad conditions. Neither of which are cheap.
Not a fan of soray foam for the cost better to do hemp Crete you get a stronger structure and it fire proof excellent insulator natural breath for humidity control insects resistant termites loced to tunnel on sprayfoam Can you please do a video on hemp Crete
Tommy Tsunami yes please. I think it should be catching on quicker than it is. Laws on growing it though might be a problem in US? Yes its labour intensive but then again a few more folk might be finding jobs that way too.
Roxul is likely better since its Hydrophobic. I presume Hemp Crete, being an organic material can absorb water leading to Rot and mold problems. Also has low R value about R-2 per inch compared to Foam & Roxul which is about R-5. Roxul recycled Slag from steel production so its green since the slag does end up in landfill. Nothing beats Roxul for fire protection.
@@guytech7310 If one believes the brochures, the hemp plus lime combination has some chemical stuff going on that makes it 'moisture controlling'. Also, organic & therefore a carbon sink, depending on shipping distance. However, I agree with you on Roxul. Rigid insulating or sealing materials crack if you live somewhere prone to ground shifts, but Roxul (or fibreglass) with poly bends with building movement and keeps the thermal barrier intact. It's a lot of work with accoustical sealant and tape to get a really good seal with poly, but it lasts if you do it right.
@@guytech7310 Hempcrete follows a different building design principle but has gained momentum in the restoration of old buildings which were deigned to be breathable and use lime mortar and renders. Cement, gypsum, vapour barriers and waterproof creams have caused rot and mold problems when applied to old houses because they trap water in the masonry. Lime+ hemp if done correctly has excellent humidity/condensation buffering and is naturally mould resistant due to its high alkalinity. If you are using hempcrete for new build then it can be used to create a full thickness wall which provides not only insulation throughout the wall but also thermal mass. No material is 100% the best solution for all situations but hempcreta has many advantages if you go beyond R value.
I really enjoyed Jordan’s presentation. A refreshing add to the channel Hope to see more 👍
Great video! It cannot be stressed enough - installation, installation, installation! Insulation is only as good as the installation- as with most processes in construction. The gaps at the rafters are not deficiencies in the insulation- rather the installation. This contractor obviously did not care and is an easy job to pick apart. Unfortunately when it comes to insulation people only seem to care about how little they can pay. There will always be someone who will do it for less, and you end up getting what you pay for in the end. Thanks Jordan!
Sign of a good business owner. Staff trained well enough to replace them.
Mr. Collier nah. What the business owner and the staff does are two different jobs.
@@crunch9876 so, owners cant train their staff? You sound dumb.
I really like that you're mentioning how products and methods will vary by climate. Keep up the excellent work, guys!
Justin Valentini
start a foam commercial style format to the spray for the building start a foam pit to spray home house
Sticks tenaciously.... I think the master has taught grasshopper well.
I've been spraying 2lb Sprayfoam insulation for 8 years in Canada...works great and haven't had major issues. It looks to me like he tried to spray 4" at once or was spraying too hot....you shouldn't spray thicker than 2" per pass. spraying too thick will cause the foam to 'burn ' in the middle and will kill your density and R value
on a side note here.... that was 1/2 lb. foam not 2lb. you can apply 1/2 lb thicker as long as your not blowing back the material. you are however correct in saying that about the 2lb foam. and on another side note.... i did the spray foam for over 10 years in the states. and none of my jobs never looked that shitty. whoever did that job was not trained properly.
Personally from my experience I think it happened to me only when it was so cold outside that when spraying..the cold reacts with the hot temperatures from the foam and makes it pull away like this... never happened with closed cell. (I’ve only been spraying for almost a year so I’m not so experienced yet! 😁)
I know little about Spray Foam , but looking at it. It looks like a lot of uneven logs( sprayed) where it does bond well to what was sprayed. I hope i have described that? Sprayed tooooo cold? Not like what I watched from Spray Foam Jones.
XL spray foam you can spray up to 8 inches open cell the closed cell is the one that you can't spray more the 4 inches but now is a lot of options of chemical that you can spray more than 4" closed cell ...you got no clue what you're talking about i been spraying since i was 22 years old im 40 now f you need to know more about foam come to north carolina the problem on this particular job is moisture you need to heat the house with all Windows open for 30 min to an hr and then closed the windows heat the house keep the heater close to the are were you going to start to spray and you never gonna have that problem..
@XL Sprayfoam Solutions, but naturally of course you going to say it’s a good product. You is the guy installing/selling it. 🙈
A good "on...the Build Show" tagline at the end. Another great video by Jordan. That cup at the end was crazy. We could see the sprayer did a poor job, but that is next level. Finally, not being sarcastic, I genuinely like the word "overneath" you used. I want to work that into my lexicon.
I caught that too. Overneath. I also dislike "overtop" but that's a different beef I guess.
I am glad you included the bit about the taco bell cup because we have all seen it. I have seen it in concrete pours.
LOL! I didn't know Taco bell made concrete additives & air sealing products. I guess that will Taco Bell restaurants take over entirely the fast food sector in a few years (reference to Demolition Man Movie)
@@guytech7310 nice reference. Air five.
I may know of a couple of buildings slabs that have Nextel's phones that would not stop alerting
That's wild. It makes you question all of their training and credibility. Whoever drank that cup would be fired on the spot.
That failure looks like application direction. Remember on your ride along foam videos the ‘operator’ (your word not mine) stayed the first shot on the 45 to the corner all the way around. Just like other sealants it’s important to have the bond into the corner and on both the sheet and the stud.
Really not sure why more crews aren’t two people. Four eyes, someone to hold spray shields.
The difficulty is that adhesion from the foam is from expanding into the cavity. Spray pattern is really important
Rookie spraying, can't blame the foam
Facts
Great work, Matt. Your quality approach especially with an inclination to Swiss level craftmanship is admirable.
"Swiss level craftsmanship" what a ridiculous self absorbed and arrogant crap to say.
We went all through this in Canada in the '80s. After sealing the house up, you have to incorporate air to air heat exchangers in order to exchange all the air in the house depending on local code and circumstances. Do you have five dogs? More air changes.
Under the sills we staple a "sill-plate gasket" before standing the wall up.
But stick-frame should be used when you live near a sawmill. Otherwise, masonry is becoming the structural material for low rise buildings when it's thermal mass is captured inside the envelope. We have to leave the trees standing whenever possible.
Have been anxious to hear your thoughts of Off-Gassing and Long Term Risks of these products and what we should consider when using for our applications
Oh yeah, another good question..
Arshaad Yar - considering these foams were developed for NASA, who has insanely strict requirements on off-gassing, it isn’t very hard to find that these foams are totally safe *_if_* used properly.
There is zero issue with off gassing if used properly
TheEarthDoctor1 sigh you made one good point. Andthat was the other point the rest are blatant lies.
First off all they do not keep offgasing when mixed properly and applied properly the finished result is chemically inert.
Yes they are toxic in a fire but so is cellulose and fiberglass insulation (Rockwool is not toxic in a fire, only fire rates insulation)
They are no more problematic during demolition than most other construction material including plywood. The dust of fully cured spray foam isn’t even harmful (Beyond regular construction dust, cement dust and rile is much worse for your health)
You say you doubt you’ll see contractors recycling the bits. And your point is?!?!?! Do you think they recycle Fiberglas insulation? No. Rockwool? No. Cellulose? No. Expanded or extruded polystyrene? No.
So what’s your point? What part of construction is recyclable? I install recycle roofing, and I I’m pretty sure only about 1 percent or less of construction companies do.
Or do you think anything besides metal is typically recycled in a demolition? Lol and even then it’s really only like copper.
I don’t know what fantasy world you live in.
Btw I don’t even install foam insulation unless specifically asked by the client or by the architects plans, I recommend Rockwool it cellulose.
But I just can’t stand blatant liars with an agenda.
In regard to it getting in your water supply, that is a huge problem with ALL construction debris, and that is why federal fines for construction waste getting into the water supply are typically in the $100,000’s per incident. Of course those are not enforced strictly.
i actually worked with this product . after spraying was finished we would always open windows /doors to create draft for ventilation then remove masks.
BEST video yet about air infiltration in a house.
Love the cup! I found one full of trash in an interior wall once! Makes you feel real good that your walls have become a garbage can :) Love the pride going in these places. That alone was probably the worst thing I saw in this video!
I was surprised that you did not mention improper curing of the spray foam when it is applied improperly (too thick, usually, but a bad mix ratio could also be problematic) or outside environmental conditions for the install (too hot or too cold).
a friend of mine who is no longer with us was on to all this stuff and MORE long ago.the BEST builder,piker, and song writer to ever live in my opion. r.i.p.my friend!
Good video-if the concrete wood interface is so prone to air leakage wouldnt it be easier and better for contractors to add adhesive or caulking directly to the foundation and then lay the rim joist onto it?
A quality installer is paramount. The guy that can read the foam as it expands, sets and a few minutes later check to see if the material has destabilized. The cell structure is another tell tale sign of the quality of the install. The shrinking foam from the studs, the shallow areas, and the cup sprayed into the wall all indicate faults of the installer. Do your homework. Find a reputable company with licensed installers that are trained to use the very brand they are installing. Anyone who is worth their salt will be able to provide a much higher quality finished product than what is on display in this video.
I did internal clay plasters myself with additional sealing here or there with cheap materials but lots of attention to detail and got 0.2 average ach50; I also designed the house with air tightness and no heat bridges insulation in mind; I used 0,5 cords of beech to heat the house this winter (the heated volume of the house is about 24000 cubic feet; temperatures outside down to -4 F and 32 F average) my stove was also used to heat the domestic water and some cooking
Is it a tiny house?
@@vapeurdepisse 24k cubic feet or 650m3 not tiny
From someone thinking about having a home built there is a lot to learn to be able to know what to ask for.
If you have any plumbing questions just hit me up on my channel. 👍
My Grandpa was a self employed contractor and he used to take me on jobs when I was 7-11 years old. I would make a small wooden box (like 2"x2") and put stuff in there like a small toy with my information and throw it in the cement he was pouring without him knowing, or Wright on the 2x4s that where going to be sealed off. or throw something in a pipe that was going to welded shut..... I just found it fascinating that one day maybe 100 year from now someone will tear up the cement, house or fence and find it. Kinda like the taco bell cup haha.
Good info. I just walked a home being built by Meritage and the foam insulation has many areas where there is 3 inches left to fill the foam to the stud and I found 2 spots with gaps large enough that I could put my hand in and touch the foam exterior lath. This might pass minimum occupancy by the city inspector but definitely not up to par. You should do a video on what the difference is between building a home to industry quality standard vs minimum occupancy vs building a quality home.
Foam is only as good as the Installer. It can't install itself. Separate the two please!
You and a couple other channels have me rolled over on doing spray foam in my travel trailer build. My drawings, my welding, my drilling and riveting the Alum skin, ....... You guys rock with effective energy efficiency ideas!!
My target is to heat and nightlight my trailer with a candle in mild winters here in N Tx and to use A/C only when outdoors gets above 90. Spray-in foam is the $ effective, time efficient, structural stiffener that foil laminated foamboard is not. Thanks for your perspective!
He found the last builders trophy. XD I always find that fun. Found a wine cork stuck to a stud with a nail. Thats how you know your builders are proud! Not sure what to think of a taco bell cup haha.
Good information without taking an hour and a half to cover it. Well done.
The US needs to learn a lot from other countries to simplify the process of building houses that are not full of volatile organic compounds, chemicals, and other synthetic stuff that turn into ash the moment they catch fire, are plain bad for your health, and, most importantly, too costly and time consuming.
Pro clima products work really well for air sealing. Contega HF works great in stud bays between studs and outside sheeting and tescon vana tape works well for flat sealing seams. They also have great membranes for interior and exterior.
I live in Florida. Our spray foam installation was faulty. Our builder didn't know much about spray foam and the installer apparently didn't either. Our ACH was 30 to 40 and we had mold in our attic after a year due to HVAC duct condensation dripping onto ceiling sheet rock. Every house in our brand new development had the same problem. Spray foam is only good if it's properly installed. Problem is in finding good installers.
Well done Jordan. Very nice and informative presentation.
Thanks 👍
I have been scientifically taught good spray foam acts as a vapor barrier. I know it is accepted widely in North American building to meet code and most certainly qualifies as a vapor barrier. If you deploy spray foam and then use the exterior foil membrane, you have in fact created two vapor barriers that can not breath between them. Whatever is sandwiched between the spray foam and the foil membrane will retain moisture that leads to mold and rot. Now you have a problem coming to your structure down the road. Dual vapor barriers is bad news in my experience. Most building inspectors in my area don't even know this. I have only met a handful over the years that have the education and experience to acknowledge this.
That foil wrap would work proper with a loose fiber type insulation on the inside but even better:
Breathable exterior sheathing over the OSB or plywood
With loose batt insulation in the stud cavities
Vapor barrier on the interior studs.
I very rarely use spray foam insulation on any job. It has its place but under ideal building situations in new modern structures, there is no need to deploy spray foam insulation.
The spray foam insulation in this TH-cam video was NOT FLASH sprayed with a wet coat prior to adjusting to the deep spray passes. This video does indeed show very poor installation of spray foam. It is not acceptable to see spray foam break away from the structure to leave gaps. If it is doing so then it is done incorrectly. I hope this home does not make its inhabitants sick in the years to come.
man if they stuck a tacobell cup in there just imagine all the other jerkoff things they did to that home. I feel bad for the owners.
Yeah, it's one thing to hire a crew that doesn't pick up after themselves...another thing when they throw their trash IN YOUR WALL. Holy crap, those people need taken to the malpractice agency and scolded.
I was working on a house and found a beer bottle in the wall, no joke. It explained a lot.
I found porno mags from the year I was born under the vanity in a bathroom I was remodeling once.
@@thomassteele-sheets7471 I've been doing work on my house and when I air sealed and reinsulated my attic I found what I like to call the previous owners "sin stash". I think the wife was fairly religious, and so stashed in the old attic insulation was a paper bag of porn from the 70's, beer bottle caps, and a box of Twinkies.
@@troyb3394 were those twinkies still any good? It could definitely bring closure to that twinkies never go bad debate. And these were from 87 at my house.
omg please take over for risinger... your videos are so much better
OSB looks like wet car board if it gets wet a few times this is job security for builders. Use Advantech OSB at least for the bottom 4 feet then get cheap mistint paint and paint all osb inside and out. This video shows half pound foam, all foam contractors will try to talk you into buying this because the job goes really fast, the 2 pound foam is going to cost more but a thin layer of that inside and out is the best sealer, vapor barrier and high R value and keeps the OSB from burning the house down from the built in E84 fire retardant.
I use 4' PT along the entire bottom of all the houses I build.
What should one do before applying spray foam to an old home? Should you check for rot/ damage before spraying? What about electrical wires and pipes? Do they need to be inspected before spraying? Is it better to not spray them and use regular batting for easy access, if repair is needed? I have no insulation under my floor. The home is lifted above flood level. Basement under the home floods once every few years.
Nice info. I will definitely apply it. Can you tell me what the R value should be when doing spray foam on your roof for a closed envelope house? I have been told 3 inches of closed cell is enough. Thanks
Eric van zeyl - I know you didn’t ask me but I can help answer the question, I do spray foam and 3 inches of close cell is going to get you an r-value of 19 to 21 depending on the brand of the foam., if it was my house I would do 4 inches of closed cell to make sure you get the r-value you need in an attic.. and 2 inches in the walls.. if is open cell you can do 3 1/2 in the walls to 5 1/2 and 5 1/2 to 8 inches in the roof, depending where you live.. thanks
Just call Absolute Pro Insulation. I’ve gotten multiple blower door test with a 0.00 air flow. Pretty amazing on what the foam can do when it’s done by a Absolute Professional.
ZERO ACH is not safe or healthy. What your saying is a person could actually suffocate from a lack of oxygen in the house. Get a family in there, and unless someone opens a door or window, you'll get oxygen depletion in only a number of hours.
If you reading zero ACH, I suspect you are doing something wrong in your testing.
Is this the better-looking version of Matt?😂😂 just kidding. Matt's Still The Man.
Still trying to get a read on the long-term IAQ/Building Science aspects of the foam and things like the Alumaflash adhesive given both are essentially sealed inside the envelope.
J Healy - NASA and every other space agency have been obsessed with off-gassing for decades so modern foams and adhesives generally don’t. There is literally an almost unlimited amount of research into these materials in the relevant journals. The effects of vented crawl spaces and other barbaric practices and the nastiness they contribute *_far_* more to the air pollution of a house.
Got to talk about insulation and air infiltration prevention! Ted
Basically in the simplest terms moisture such as humidity or damp lumber will cause the foam to cure faster reducing its expansion time cooler ambient temperature causes the foam to expand slower but if you get to cool it'll stop the reaction all together
He just turned that house into a Ferriday cage...lol. Good luck on having any cell service.
Matt, more videos with Jordan. I like the no bullshit approach. Keep em coming!
Good information my friend
I actually learned a lot! With so many people talking out there,, He was easy to listen to. why do I believe him?? - well he sounds like he knows what he is talking about LOL I LOVE that he gives the whole WHY/HOW- cuz I'd be asking!!! But I believe what he is saying is true b/c he can explain it simply.
☆☆It helps that he isn't hard to look at 🌞
Hey Jordan,great content!
Did ya’ll put the allumaflash because the osb was already there?
Would you have gone with zip and tape if ya’ll had done it from the beginning?
About to start building a home and trying to get as much knowledge as I can once I get with my builder. Thanks so much!
I don't see a reply to your question let me know if they ended up replying to it I had the exact same question
If it was done in stages, like foam the edge of the studs and panels first, all the way around,, the installer can check for
proper adherence, then complete the first two inches all the way around, allowing time for the foam to cure.
Then do the next two inches?. Of course the installer should occasionally review the manufactures manual to make sure he is following the manufactures current best practice directions.
That was a very good video full of information.
If you like mold and rot: yes. Making a house airtight on the outside of the insulation is a really stupid idea. Even the holes in the insulation of the original house would be better because the moisture could evaporate over time. The sealing will keep it indefinitely between the frames.
Sven, I keep thinking about the house as a glass jar that I hold to my mouth and exhale into. The moisture starts collecting. You are correct. Giving credit to my expectations of that foil wrap, there's no way the interior will match the seal of the exterior. A boiled pot of water without the exhaust hood on, the same with a shower, a window left open during a rain, plumbing or roof leaks, or daily living--the house is soon a mushroom without moisture exhausting mechanicals. If the electricity goes out, a generator fails, or any component of the air exchange system goes out, let the mold begin.
How are you addressing vapor drive when you're using PolyWall Aluma Flash(typical rubberized asphalt backing membrane) with a Water Vapor Transmission of 0.014 perm(E96B) on the exterior and a closed cell foam on the interior? Essentially you've created a double vapor barrier that could potentially cause moisture entrapment issues. I'm surprised you didn't use a product like VaproShield WrapShield SA with a perm rating of 50(E96B) to allow rapid outward drying yet it boasts some of the best Air Permeance and Water Resistance among current available build wraps(WRB).
To check if its filled all you need to do is use a infrared camera/thermostat and you will be able to easily tell because of the difference in temperatures....or even poke something through it and check if the resistance stays the same until it bottoms out..then just fill the hole back in after checking
Basically just get a good spray foam job done by am experienced contractor and you save money on additional works.
Is that some kind of aluminium foil on the outside? And if so, does it block cellphone reseption?
Yes, so you don't have to wear a tin foil hat around the house ;)
That's a good question. I wonder if a person would have to step outside you make a phone call. I work in a tin covered shop and we have horrible reception. If it's an important call I just head outside immediately. It's frustrating
Yes, it affects cell service. Rockwool does as well. We have our A/V guy install repeaters that are wired from the outside to the inside to mitigate the issue.
That's cool man. I should look into something like that for our shop.
I have this problem a little bit. Can I fill in the gaps with great stuff or canned foam.
I am just going to seal myself into a zip lock bag.
Why? Using tons of spray foam is more fun I heard ... ;)
I think many people will start to suffer because of that foam.
It is hard to understand why people nowadays agree to have something so risky in their homes.
Same as it was with the asbestos where people were also told that it was completely safe if installed properly.
And also with the lead paint that it was completely safe if painted and maintained properly.
Dino B. There’s foam in more things than just our homes. Look around you!! Chairs, couches, seats in your car. You can’t use filthy fiberglass for stuff like that.
I have a house built in 1890 and it is a vertical barge board house. I replaced some of them that were rotting at the base area where the sill is. Then wrapped that with black felt paper 15# I think. then added OSB 1/2". Then used two ply aluminum bubble wrap 6' H x the run of the house overlapping by 3" (bottom first then the top of course). Then added my hearty back wood themed siding on top of that. Thoughts?
Hey Matt, I am curious if the cell foam on the interior acts as a vapor retardant and you apply a second vapor retardant on the exterior will there then be the possibility of an issue developing with moisture being trapped between the two vapor restrictive layers.
I usually just clench to keep my air from exfiltrating.
Matt. We are doing a major remodel on a early 80s brick home in FL Panhandle. Nothing between the brick and studs but thermoply. We have decided to go with sprayfoam and encapsulate the house. Should we install a fresh air pipe?
Interesting here in Finland we use aluminum coated grooved foam sheets and then spray the gaps with foam which are then taped over with aluminum tape.
Never even heard of using insulation foam like that though it makes a kind of sense if you have truck full of stuff to pump it in and not those tiny pistol cans.
As for K values in this climate 4500mm of glass wool equals about 120mm of foam sheeting.
Does no one use sill sealer? When I was framing in the 1970's we rolled out fiberglass or foam before installing sills and shoes. One builder used caulk or adhesive instead, but that had to cost a lot more, plus the labor.
I would charge extra to install Taco Bell cups in the wall-it’s additional labor.
Cost plus lol
Hempcrete video please! So many eco friendly advantages, and homeowner advantages too.
Do you use the blue product on the bottom side of the bottom plate during a new build? Or do you just use it to seal the joint from the plate to the concrete? If that is the case and you don't use it under the plate, what do you use? Thanks for the great videos!
One large problem for rural folks around the country is that it is likely there is only one (or none) spray foam contractors in their area. I have had friends living rurally do there own foam jobs...given the tendency for "mispray, mis-mix, humidity issues" I find that proposition scary! Rock wool self installed for me. R
Does spray foam repel or soak up moisture?
Im not normally one to recommend litigation, but i seriously hope that home owner is speaking to a legal professional. That level of craftsmanship is borderline criminal. That builder should be ashamed
Yup. The construction superintendents we train would know to put the brakes on that job the second they observed a crew like that in-action, doing anything sub-standard. and get it fixed. Bad jobs can happen to even normally excellent sub-trades. Maybe their main guy got hurt ‘last week’ and a couple of greenhorns got in over their heads. It happens. But there is zero excuse for the builder accepting that work and worse - passing it on to the homeowner. But it was more likely the low bidder - which will never be an “A-list” sub.
Thanks for the Product tips and fyi on Spray foam application issues!
It would be nice to see insulation reviews start to show and include just how effective cork can be. Also, cork has many benefits to the environment. Is renewable, carbon sink, water resistant, vapor permeable, is almost perfect as insulation.
WOW that Taco Bell cup. I can see why the homeowners ditched their previous contractor.
I missed that. Where did you see it?
@@mrreymundo5383, 7:48
@@augustreil Thanks!
@@mrreymundo5383 You're welcome.
Yes. McDonalds cups only please.
Matt I like the many products that you show on your program, but are for the most part unavailable where I live in Northeastern Wisconsin. Primarily I'm talking about the Delta dorken products. What I need is some way to get access to these products to buy them.
Makes me want to go with rockwool.
I would shoot everyone suggesting an airseal on the cold side of the insulation. If the inside isn't airtight warm air with moisture will come to the outside where cools and releases the moisture = mold and rot. In the house I bought the roof was insulated with rockwoll with a a aluminium sheeting installed on the outside. It had a nice black and green ecosystem......
Sven Weihusen the new-breed of installer can’t grasp these simple facts.
Exactly.
Matt another issue is fishing wiring after the sheetrock is installed to add an outlet, switch or data cables,a real electricians nightmare!!!
Don’t forget the fact that now that branch circuits and especially home runs, are totally encased in foam, you have now derated the ampacity of the wirethat no one ever addresses
Wow your right, I didnt even consider that,I wonder if theres a derating table in the latest National Electric Code?
was about to say, the spray looked very uneven, then bam, a wild taco bell cup appeared
This is why I refuse to use spray.... too much can go wrong. Spaces, hiding things inside, off gassing, pain in the rear to renovate....etc...
I don't care about the craze, I will get the usual insulation fiberglass or other similar products. if it needs fixing or moving it can.
Overneath. Good word!
so you leave the studs exposed and the cold travels right thru the wood ..no thermal breaks there..?
If using Poly Wall's Aluma flashing , I am guessing the perm rating on that product is super low, as in almost 0? Thus the wall has to be designed to dry to the interior. You should mention that. A wall assembly has to be designed to insure no failures. So before you start wrapping your house in this stuff, make sure the wall is thoughtfully designed to function appropriately. Nice vid, Matt looks different?
Silly questions?.
Why is the wall baseplate not bedded on silicone caulk?
Why would you not seal over the inside with polythenes sheet under the drywall?
How does AlumaFlash affect RF devices like WiFi? It looks like you made a faraday cage.
Also, with a metal roof and aluminum along the edge... what would happen with a lightning strike?
cuylarHD cell phone signals too?
i get no cellphone signal in my aluminum clad house with a metal roof.
Wait a minute. You took over the build? How does that happen? Did the owner fire the previous builder? I'm just curious why they decided to bring you in.
One gigantic problem with spray foam is if it doesn’t dry correctly. I watched a video out of Canada where a family spay foamed their attic while they were in the house. The foam didn’t dry properly and it off gassed an odor of rotten fish. Everyone got sick and was diagnosed with neurological issues. They had to remove the entire roof, trusses and all and have people in hasmat suits dispose of all materials. Some experts say never to use it because it is not in a controlled setting of perfect temperature and humidity. That is why I am personally unsure about using it on job sites.
Product quality is important. I know the video you watched. Proper product and proper installation and you'll have a properly insulated structure. Dont go super cheap. You get what you pay for ya know?
Saw that too. Bad instal
I don't understand how moisture/vapor is mitigated once you seal up a house tighter than the Virgin Mary's legs. How do you get the moisture from a bathroom out of a house after a couple of people have taken a shower? Don't tell me that a standard bathroom fan is enough to dry everything up.
Would fire and ice do a good job as house wrap
FishOntv I’ve wondered this as well for a Northern Wisconsin Cabin we plan to build. It definitely “sticks tenaciously” ;) Only problem I was expecting was the thickness at windows and doors may be a little bit of an issue.
In my opinion too costly and time consuming. Best option is to buy the ZIP sheathing and use the ZIP tape. Its going to take considerable effort to peal and stick the membrane to all the exterior surfaces, and you cannot apply it to the OSB unless the OSB is absolutely dry (might be OK if you in a arid location, but not so nice in area that gets lots of rain.).
FishOntv, Yes. Just use plywood and not OSB. Use a liquid flashing around the window, door jams.
Have you guys ever done retro fit foam inside of existing walls in old houses?
What I don’t like about it is that it is impossible to snake a romex through the wall at a later date... such as adding wall sconces or something like that.
What effect does nailing siding through the foil wrap have? I have done several tear offs of siding on buildings with tyvek in Vermont that were 15 to 20 yrs old and found the tyvek was extremely brittle and worthless , apparently it breaks down even without uv exposure.
Can’t put foil on the outside in Vt though.
I find it interesting that "The Build Show" is now stepping back from the "spray foam is the best" bandwagon. They were pushing it just a little while ago. Everything has limitations.
Bestbuilder - it serves a specific purpose, no one solution does it all.
@@grendelum what would you say the best place to use spray foam is? I'm speaking in reference to climate and conditions within the environment.
My experience is unique maybe, new construction with SIPs and all, but we built a 4’ sill wall with a floating slab and put 1.5” of spray foam inside that wall to include it in the conditioned space so none of the elements can get to my beams... also made plumbing and electrical way easier. That’s the extent of my experience with the stuff...
any thoughts about the osb trapped between 2 vapor closed surfaces?
First, the open cell that's in the walls is different than closed cell ,which would be the better choice when it comes to spray foam. Closed cell has added structure strength and superior R value but with added cost.
2nd, canned foam and two part spray foam are very different animals. So the broad brush of the video title is a little misleading. 3rd, any probably my biggest gripe, is that the foam contractor that did this job puts all other foam contractors in a poor light. Simple things like air sealing around truss heels and soffit blockers is easy but the extra time and labor to someone that is already lazy is a recipe for what happened here. ( a cup foamed over in the wall...wtf!)
Foam is a very specialized trade, many many things need to be watched and taken into account. From substrate, material and ambient temps, proper pressure of the foam type being sprayed, humidity of both air and substrate etc etc. We are manufacturing polyurethane on site, so everything needs to be monitored in order to make perfectly mixed inert plastic. Remember this the next time you look for the lowest bidder.
Yup. Strong reasons to avoid spray foam. Unless the Foam guy is really good, your end up with problems.
The other issue is with closed cell if you need to repair work or remodeling work in the future. Good luck trying to snake a cable or fix a plumbing leak in a closed-cell spray foam. Open cell is a moisture-water problem. You might as well just stick a wet sponge in your walls. One plumbing leak or exterior water leak and your screwed. I am sure the repair contractors love when a homeowner has to spend 3 or 4 times for a repair because of spray foam.
@@guytech7310 , Im advocating for using skilled professional spray foam installers. The issues you listed are difficult with spray foam but not unique to its use.
@@MegaCb45 Yup, but for every good pro there are a dozen that just wing it. So you got a 1 in 12 chance of finding a quality installer. I don't like odds stacked against me.
FWIW: I 've also read about instances when the spray foam was not mixed correctly and the foam never fully cured. Home owners had to completely remove walls & roofs because the SF never fully cured. What a nightmare!
@@guytech7310, Yeah about 7 cases that has happened. It doesn't occur as much as you think it does.
@@guytech7310, There's a reason top of the line refrigerators ,water heaters, coolers etc use foam...one of the best insulators available. Negligence runs rampant in any trade...
Wow, sometimes Matt just looks and sounds completely different. I hardly recognized him in this video.
UOA Plays he’s another guy
deep fake algorithm must be bugged
Any expertise regarding spray foaming the interior of a school bus conversion? My searches on spray foam for that project led me here and your information is so concentrated it's apparent you have WAY more in your head. What are your thoughts in terms of flex (the bus twists laterally a bit when going over bumpy roads) and the relationship between metal surfaces and spray foam. Thank you, thumbs up :-)
That stuff is likely to create MORE rigidity in my humble opinion. It sticks like glue, and with the amount of surface area contact it is likely to create a completely rigid end product even if some of the adhesion fails....and I am not sure that's a bad thing. You want the increased R value for such a project. R
We spray Van's and cargo trailers all the time, never once had an issue or call back. The spray foam will dramatically improve the structural strength and will also make it more quiet too.
You guys put the foam between studs, but those studs cause a lot of thermal bridges, aren't you worried about them ?
Yep! Many builders are moving to 24" OC rather than 16"OC, it reduces those bridges by nearly 25%. Also, in many climates, we use exterior insulation to blanket the home.
Studs have there own r value that ,In UK, is combined in calcs to give an over all U value usually very small difference, air test makes lot more difference, in one of Matt's other videos he shows solid wood walls in Europe that perform comparably to insulated walls, just more expensive
Most new homes have continuous exterior insulation. Near the end of Jordan's video he show the home with 2" Rigid foam insulation. They use a foil backed foam board to seal up the walls since the contractor did a very poor job with the sheathing sealing. Cheaper to just seal up the foam than to redo all the sheathing work.
lol, are you related to Matt? you sound just like him. Great tips, thank you
@The Arizona Homestead Project, they Half-Brothers? 🤔
So if you spray between the rafters can the vents on roof be eliminated?
It's not just the applicator it's the owners telling them to spray it when the conditions are not right .
True. although no matter what some jobs will get done under bad conditions. There are only about 2 reliably good months, an working only when the sun shines and its not too hot, well, that shortens a guys working year down to about 40 days. It's not economical to wait until perfect (or even good) conditions are available for every process. The sun comes out and I get 100 phone calls all at once to go do concrete. From a project management standpoint, it is hard to get a spray foam guy back once you've made him wait on the weather, because he's went to do other work. The best thing is to manage the building temperature/ humidity, and get a good contractor who is prepared to work under bad conditions. Neither of which are cheap.
Not a fan of soray foam for the cost better to do hemp Crete you get a stronger structure and it fire proof excellent insulator natural breath for humidity control insects resistant termites loced to tunnel on sprayfoam
Can you please do a video on hemp Crete
Tommy Tsunami yes please. I think it should be catching on quicker than it is. Laws on growing it though might be a problem in US? Yes its labour intensive but then again a few more folk might be finding jobs that way too.
Roxul is likely better since its Hydrophobic. I presume Hemp Crete, being an organic material can absorb water leading to Rot and mold problems. Also has low R value about R-2 per inch compared to Foam & Roxul which is about R-5. Roxul recycled Slag from steel production so its green since the slag does end up in landfill. Nothing beats Roxul for fire protection.
@@guytech7310 If one believes the brochures, the hemp plus lime combination has some chemical stuff going on that makes it 'moisture controlling'. Also, organic & therefore a carbon sink, depending on shipping distance. However, I agree with you on Roxul. Rigid insulating or sealing materials crack if you live somewhere prone to ground shifts, but Roxul (or fibreglass) with poly bends with building movement and keeps the thermal barrier intact. It's a lot of work with accoustical sealant and tape to get a really good seal with poly, but it lasts if you do it right.
@@guytech7310 Hempcrete follows a different building design principle but has gained momentum in the restoration of old buildings which were deigned to be breathable and use lime mortar and renders. Cement, gypsum, vapour barriers and waterproof creams have caused rot and mold problems when applied to old houses because they trap water in the masonry. Lime+ hemp if done correctly has excellent humidity/condensation buffering and is naturally mould resistant due to its high alkalinity. If you are using hempcrete for new build then it can be used to create a full thickness wall which provides not only insulation throughout the wall but also thermal mass. No material is 100% the best solution for all situations but hempcreta has many advantages if you go beyond R value.
@@makingitthrough190 best way to keep the young student in shape for summer time jobs
Why dont you lads use PIR insulation boards??
Is this Matt Risinger's TH-cam channel?