Closed Cell Foam + Rockwool- How To Flash & Batt
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2021
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icredibly well informed. Rockwool is incredible for sound and batt. I have bought from IDI...Good company. You hit the spot with just enough for each application. Too many times the builder or homeowner is not interested in foam because they think they need an r-49 cavity foam filled....7" is overkill. 3" is max. You are spot on brother. And your exterior wall design is interesting. That wind blowing hard in the background was a great sales pitch on the foam too....Awesome video. I just came across it.
I was a insulator (Residential) in the late 80's and early 90's & when I started the standard was R7 in the walls "with plastic" R19 floor & 30 in attic, when I left & went on to a different profession it was still the same orher than we were using R15 in the walls without plastic, I'm in N.C Raleigh area. It's amazing how far the industry has come. And I have to add I've been around construction & builders my whole adult life about 40 years & you my friend are a hell of a builder, I would love to have you build me or anyone in my family a home, I could rest knowing it was done with integrity.
That foam is no joke. Used it to insulate around some old loose vinyl windows and the foam locked the windows in place better than the screws and blocking did.
No kidding was replacing a door and frame that was sealed with a foam and fastened with bolts, so I unscrewed all the bolts I could find and cut with a power saw from all around the frame and still needed two of us to push the frame with the door loose.
No joke is right! Commercial insulator came in and did kitchen, under floor and under a crawl space. Later, didn't realize I could not set the outlets back. Thankfully the tile backsplash was thick enough that it didn't affect the boxes sticking out max. Make sure that anything needed to set (outlet depth on adjustable boxes, etc) is done BEFORE spraying. Also made mistake on not adding layer of roxul before the sheetrock went up, and ceiling. But so far, temps are good but would like to noise reduction benefit. Next home...
There is no racking force applied. If you took a force and pushed sideways against the foam it would crush like you stepped on it.
It would be nice to see insulation reviews start to show and include just how effective cork can be. Also, cork has many benefits to the environment. Is renewable, carbon sink, water resistant, vapor permeable, is almost perfect as insulation.
Your Videos are really educational I’m an air-conditioned contractor in Louisiana I love the way you explain everything you’re a great contractor, I would love for you to build my home !
Matt, your knowledge and unselfish advice is gold to many of us. Thanks for sharing this incredible information. Priceless.
This house is a case study in good practice
Shut yo moruh
R32 walls in Texas. Are you kidding?
@@MrTexasDan A well insulated building in any climate will reduce your energy bills. It will also reduce the size of your heating/cooling equipment.
Except the black roof which he did just for looks
@@magictrading8903 the 4 inches of spray foam alone is R 28...
Nice assembly Matt. It's coming along nicely.
That is absolutely the very best application I've ever seen
I love this stuff. That is a beautiful wall assembly.
OK, this answers my (and others) questions about the closed cell foam install.
Now this brings us to the next question. What is the upcost of this wall (the 2x3 (5.5" wall thickness) heat break, Zip sheathing, foam, Rockwool) vs a "code" wall (for that area) and how does it compare (costwise) to, a comparable (R-value) ICF wall. If the ICF wall is cheaper, then how much more R-value can you add for the same cost?
Love these shows! Please keep them coming!
I learn something useful on every video. Awesome video.
I own 2 houses next door to each other, almost identical in layout, one built in 1908 & other 1910, both houses I redid the 3rd floor (complete gut). 1st house is ours & put in Rockwool with polyiso board on the inside (R-6 with drywall to go over it). This reduces thermal bridging through ceiling joists. Next house did closed cell foam between ceiling joists (both houses have roof above it). Considering the performance & price I would definitely do the Rockwool/polyiso combo. Probably half the price (with my labor) & I think it performed better. Again, exact same 3rd floors, next door to each other so a pretty good comparison. Close cell spray foam was about $6k for just the 3rd floor ceiling/walls.
Yeah in retrofit/renovations, when you can put whole boards, its way cheaper for same performance.
Minnesota built home here. Cant stress enough put enough foam 2"+ and CONTROL THE MOISTURE through the entire build if its happening through the winter. I neglected to do so and had a lot of condensation occur between the flash and the batt when we had our extreme cold snap which occurs once if not twice a winter. Matt if you read this please look to mentioning it, because its still relatively new concept many aren't aware of, and it can be extremely scary situation. In my case all of it dried out as designed once it warmed up a bit and I dropped the moisture levels as much as possible.
What was the exact assembly? Poly on the interior or something like smart membrane? A flash coat in cold climate can be a risky assembly if not done right.
Controlling moisture is hardly a new concept since polyethylene sheets have been standard in northern walls for close to 50 years. What is new is the realization that even in the north, it might be hot and humid outside while the inside is cool and dry (due to air conditioning), so interior poly isn't a good idea anymore.
@@hailexiao2770 if cool and *dry*, would condensation still occur?
We just foamed our home is Minnesota. 6" closed cell (R42) under the roof decking and 4" (R28) on the walls. It's incredible stuff!
What brand did you use?
R values are a joke, R42 of foam is like having R90 of batt insulation.. I bet you can heat your house with a candle.
“I’m not in a high wind zone”, as the plastic door opening is blowing at a sustained 120mph! 😂
Great meeting you at JLC the other day Matt!
Great show.
What a well engineered wall system.
hey matt I want you to talk about the final process of a build. what the contractor usually does before handing it off to the client. window cleaning! I am a window cleaner construction clean ups are a regular part of the job. id even love to clean your windows myself when the time comes.
In South is enough open cell for walls and roof.We used to spray closed cell the sub floor /freezers. Closed cell is good for vapor barriers and R value, open cell - R value and sound . Cold states : roof - first closed cell ,then open , Sub floor - open cell first , then closed .
incredible didactic and important!! many thanks!!!
The thickness required for closed cell foam to become a vapor barrier varies depending on brand. No close cell spray foam becomes a vapor barrier at 1". You need to look at the TDS of the foam you are using. Most require at least 1.5", some required over 2". This system will work, it just super over kill. I have been a spray foam contractor for 15 years and studied at the Kansas Building Science Institute.
1" is thick enough for a vapor barrier in certain zones. 2" is enough in zone 6
@@johndeerefarmer4483 No it is not. The technical data sheet for each spray foam will list the minimum amount of spray foam to reach a perm rating of less than one. To be considered a vapor barrier the perm rating has to be below 1 perm as defined in the building code. Perm ratings are not defined by climate zones. If you know of one please let me know.
@@markking3531 A better statement is "you don't need a vapor barrier (
Just found this channel, REALLY like it over *other* spray foam (jones) videos ! He claims you can't do this!😮😂
Wow! LOVE the idea of using the "zip" boards to fix the thermal bridging from the studs!
we're building a custom walk in cooler for a taproom in Philadelphia. Trying to figure out the climate zone and where I need the dew point to be/or if I even need to worry about one. It's a conditioned space inside of a conditioned space. That being said, very helpful video!
Matt, what are your thoughts on doing a spray in fiberglass over the foam, such as jm spider plus or knauf jetspray?
Basically a R32 in a wall in, what, Texas? That's going to perform so well. Wish I had that in my house...
Indeed. For what looks like a 50-85F average yearly swing, R32 seems overkill.
You are only asking your HVAC for a delta of 20F. I guess he's well prepped for the next storm.
@@joshpit2003 since you bring that up, will his HVAC units perform well? like not short cycling etc and fail sooner since they dont get proper run time?
@@joshpit2003 Yes, for Austin, R32 walls are WAY overkill and stupid expensive over what you get with just 2x6 walls with pink stuff. But overkill and expensive never stopped Matt from taking it for free and advertising it for his sponsors.
@@billlan0 Hmm, solar. There's another poor use of dollars. At the electric rates in Austin, it takes 20-30 years to break even vs. on-grid power (just in time to replace the worn out system). This is true unless you take the subsidies which are paid for by your neighbors.
@@neckofthewoods24 He'll be totally fine. They're won't be any short cycling in his ac. So much ai, learning, temperature modeling it'll turn on for awhile to get to temperature and not turn back on for quite awhile. He's going to size it appropriately. If he goes too big of a unit what you're saying could happen.
first time someone else besides Spray Jones has said how to do a proper flash and batt! good job. rule of thumb though without looking it up is over 2/3rds ratio. so R14 of closed cell means you should only do a max of R8 in batt form which of course isnt really a product anyone sells. youre better off just doing the 2-3" of closed cell and calling it a day.
you are probably right, but i'm one of those neurotic people who is gonna pay extra just to put some insulation in there JUST BECAUSE lol
@@dovahkindragonborn9827 but pay for that massive R value in closed cell then. keep on packing that R7 in there vs doing more labor and spending for only an R3.5.
Watch Spray Jones. Unless you’re doing this for noise you’ve spent a lot for very little gain….
Spray Jones is just a dumb contractor. Don't listen to anything he says. He's faking his knowledge, just like most of the clowns on TH-cam.
@@CybekCusal lol the guy in Matt’s video literally said the same thing though and he points to probably the same thing Spray Jones is referring to
I’ve seen it all, rockwool insulation, spray foam insulation, and now both
Sound will go through electrical boxes. Here in Russia Acoustic group produce sound reducing electrical boxes for drywall. Sure they are for European DIN standard.
That's probably my favorite insulation system. Yes it's a little bit more expensive but really good... and more than enough for Canada too.
Love his shows. Would LOVE to see his final cost as an actual house buyer not as the builder just to see the per square foot price. I can't imagine the regular home owner could ever come close to affording this type of build on a 2k sqft. home.
If estimate This house with all it's high end upgrades, energy features in the $400/sf range
Rockwool raised the price of the R15 bag $21 overnight in February 2024 to increase profits. So eff them!
Hey Matt! I live just South of Houston and have a 25 yr old brick home that is an insulation nightmare.. meaning... I am freezing right now because the cold is just pouring though my walls. I can quite literally feel it. I also have been working to address less than adequate insulation in my attic and a poorly sealed attic that is allowing insulation to circulation in my home through the walls. Have been watching a lot of your videos on insulation.... So I have decided this is what I need in my attic. I have already paid good money for attic insulation replacement and sealing that was just not done right at all... my question is... can you recommend someone in Houston area that will come do this right!! There are a lot of insulation guys that just don't know what they are doing! Also, Any opinions on the foam fill for existing walls. I spoke to company called Retrofoam. Seems like a good deal. But no one services the Houston area. Although your Austin guy has offered to drive over if I go that route! Wondered if you could offer advice! Thanks for what you do!
Interesting video, thanks, the link to SPFA appears to require a membership to access, I am particularly interested in the applied thickness recommendation for for cold climates as I live in Fairbanks Alaska
SPFA docs are not available for free. Shame. Still a very good video.
Hello Matt! Can you tell us viewers if dark exterior paint colors affect the efficiency of a home and if so, by what kind of approx margin? We are building a home and wanting to paint it navy but we are afraid the dark color will make cooling it difficult. For reference, we are in NC and we NEVER run the heat, even in the winter. If its only 5-10% power consumption increase then we may go ahead and do it. But if its something significant, it would be interesting to know. Maybe this would be a cool science video for you guys :)
good luck to anybody doing remodel down the road
The problem with flash and batt is the majority of insulation companies only install 1/2” or less of closed cell foam. After putting installing foam below manufacturer recommendations, they cram a fiberglass batt into the cavity. The fiberglass batts are designed to completely fill the cavity for maximum effectiveness. They aren’t made to be crushed down. The methods used in this video are overkill, but installed correctly with enough cavity space for all materials.
I'm building a bus to rv conversion and would love to know how thick my closed cell foam needs to be before putting rockwool over the top of it. A bus is basically a large metal box and I like the idea of sound deadening.
Don't use closed cell unless your venting is solid. You do need to worry a little about the structure breathing.
Hi Matt, great vid as always
Just a question re the vapor barrier, if the closed cell is a VB and the ZIp system is a VB, then could this result in a vapor trap for the wood in the zip system?
Could be in cold climate!
T-Studs are kiln dried. check the moisture content on yours b4 u install. Not a problem if u have "no open in-wall cavities". If you have "open in-wall cavities" allow for in-house air to circulate.
You should not install drywall, but instead install plexiglass.
Preferably ballistic plexi.
Mainstream construction so good it deserves a earthship style truth window🤣
One thing I most definitely like about TH-cam, sort of like the books or magazines of old (of which I do not buy or have any more), is that I can refer back to them (haha... if I remember where they might be, but so to was the case with books and magazines, but at least now I have an intelligent(?) search engine). Currently I do not know what is in my house's walls, but I know there is nothing in my floors for I having a house with a crawl space and having inspected that visually. (Sigh)... Really, builders need to [censored] so that 120 years down the road things do not need to be fixed only because it was done inadequately the first time.
@matt did you consider using the pre-insulated T-studs we've seen in your other videos?
Nice.
We are purchasing a home built in the 80s in the north houston area. What are the rules when doing the attic with the closed or open cell foam? As far as AC equipment, venting, etc
Matt,
You and Ken are another Dynamic Duo!
Question:
Considering Zip-R vs your InSoFast, would calculations be any different??? 😊
I am also planning to use the 2x6 T-Stud for my new home with 2" CCSF inside here in Coastal NC.
Cheers, Eric
love the back and forth complete (yet layman-friendly) explanation of the closed cell. wasn't quite sure why the rockwool was even needed, since you already got to an R14 in TX with the closed cell -- if 14 wasn't enough why not just another inch of spray?
Cost. Closed cell is 3x more expensive than open cell. He is going with the wool for sound conditioning. But mostly, he wants more than minimum insulation because of the climate. Building codes tell you the MINIMUM acceptable amount of material. You are free to exceed that if you want. Which he clearly does want to do.
It's not just cost. Closed cell foam is not a good sound barrier. It transmits sound through it pretty easily. The Rockwool IS a good sound barrier.
@@nschubach ah, ok. thx
Great job! 2' on center or 16" ?
16
Matt’s got the only house on the planet that you have to wear a jacket on the inside in the summer!
only because its soo efficient he doesnt want you heating up his house.
Not likely ERCOT just sent out earliest ever warning about overloaded electrical generation problems.
Oh joy.....waiting for August😓
All you people moving to Texas...stay home, we dont have generating capacity for all y'all.
I'll be really pissed if electric goes down and my Blue Bell melts
@@unknowncuyler5449 hahahahahahahaha
At about 8:55, Matt discusses MW printing the R-value on the batt. During the install R15 was placed on the lower section and R13 was placed in the upper section. Was that a specific design decision or a quality control issue?
mixed bags
I hate doing flash and batt but I really hate doing it with mineral wool lol. If I am doing flash and batt i prefer to use Knauf batts (fiberglass and mineral wool blend acoustic batts)
Why not blown in, of some sort. After flash I mean
@@rbnhd1976 if it were up to me every job would be 100% cellulose blown in. But blowing over foam would be up to the customer or builder. More time and money
In the south could you fill the bays all the way and then put up foam insolation panels across the wall and then put up the drywall?
What advice would you have on dealing with full dimension 2x4 walls in zone 6? I considered using .5" of rigid foam or 1" comfort board or and firring out .5" on the inside with R-15 Rockwool. I am also considering firring out either the inside or outside walls 1.5" and going the flash & batt route or R-19 Rockwool. I am from the south but this house is in the north and I don't want to get this detail wrong... Any ideas would be much appreciated!
Cover it with Aluminum double bubble across the studs and tape it off. The ceilings too, Reflects heat out reflects heat in. Cut my heating and a/c bill by 80%. You couldn't pay me to put batt insulation in my walls. You Guys complaining about the cost, I get it, but if you do that with foam and then cover it across the studs every day of every year you will be paying yourself back. By My rough calculations it took 3 years to pay off the entire insulation job. Been money in the bank ever since..
Any concern about moisture?
@@hdhhbsbbauudb Nope never had a problem this was in southern NJ> Stopped the termites dead in their tracks.
@@thatamerican3187 cool, ty for responding!
Something I've been wondering about with sprayfoam since I started seeing it, is how much of a P.I.T.A. is it if you need to do some rewiring/renovating ?
To me it seems like it would be a lot as you have to dig the wires out of the foam, and dig new channels for the wire if you are re routing it.
Do you have to remove the old wire, or just disconnect it? At least with flash and batt and t-studs you'd just need to dig out the foam through the studs.
Last year was visiting a remodel where they pulled off all the sheetrock, pulled all the two conductor wire and were going back with NM 12/3) and put in Smurf tube conduit so they could change it at some date in the future if ever necessary without ripping up the walls.
Just put in conduit before you spray foam and you're good to go.
matt- have watched a lot of your videos and i tried to send and email to you and not sure if you got it or not, but have a question for you : we are in the process of moving to another house and thinking of going with a metal roof and the company offers adding a radiant barrier , which of course is extra. i would like to do the spray foam to the attic ( which we have done to the current house ) and in your opinion, would you do the metal roof and radiant barrier and no foam or add the foam or metal roof and foam with no radiant barrier. live in florida, so summers are much like texas.
Matt “Overkill” Risinger
I think he prefers Matt "belt and suspenders" Risinger
It's all free so why not.
His homes are luxury built and will last for hundreds of years. I bet your underkill homes are poor people housing in about 20 years 🤣
@@NickOsterbaan underkill? And no, they won't last hundreds of years.
If I need to pull my siding off my house, and there is currently no sheathing or vapor barrier beneath, can I use closed cell spray foam against the sheetrock before installing new sheathing, vapor barrier, and siding over it?
Can you show how you would put in a fire place in a netzero home?
Total embodied carbon is 10x higher than fiberglass and the r value is 4.2 per inch. Unless you are using Rockwood for sound, it’s not worth the cost. Foam and fiberglass is good, exceeds code, and good air barrier. Fire resistance won’t matter when the entire structure is wood.
These videos will spoil future home builders. I talked to several builders who had no clue what Zip r sheathing was let alone T-studs. They were reluctant to try anything new. Building my house like this would have cost me a little more in material cost but made finding a builder much more costly and complicated in itself.
Would this be a smart, efficient move for a
Vented attic space? Long Island, NY area. Current attic insulation is lacking & a lot of poorly installed batts. Crushed, no vapor barrier…etc….
Got a price of 125 dollars a sheet of ZIP R 3. How can someone afford to cover a whole house in it?
dont waste any of it. literally tape up all your extra pieces for a bonus sheet.
Economies of scale is where it comes in, plus not only is it sheeting but also insulation.
but your getting more than just sheathing.... house wrap / r-value not to mention what bs house wrap is
I got R9 for 65 a sheet
He got it for free...
Interested in your personal studio wall assembly. What fabric did you use?
I'm doing 3" of closed cell in my attached heated / cooled garage / shop. Zone 5. I will have 2.5" of space left in the wall that I could fill with rockwool. Will it be a problem to use this in a space that I might not always want to condition? If I am going out of town for the week I plan on not conditioning the shop.
I used closed cell foam on first light layer. Then put Rockwool 3 in batts next layer and it is very cool in summer and very warm in winter. Never any problems. You will be fine no need to over do it.
Can you flash and batt the attic? Cuz that’s where the sapping heat comes from. 🔥
Can you please post the link to the document you eluded to? SPFA-147 Spray Polyurethane Foam for Hybrid Insulation Systems - Part 2: Climate Zones 4-7:
Nevermind. Here is the link: www.sprayfoam.org/store_product.asp?prodid=65 It cost $25........no thanks. 🤦♂️🙄
In this particular hybrid method, why the closed cell foam and not an open cell foam?
Matt we are in the middle of a remodel and can’t find a straight answer. Our house is 105yr old in a dry California climate. It was built with wood siding, a felt layer, and 1/2” wood sheathing. It doesn’t have a vapor barrier do I need to add one or use hard foam insulation before putting in Rockwool? What would be the best way.
A bit off topic, but was is the green coating on the bottom portions of the studs ?
I am assuming it's to stop mold from forming.
Here in Sydney Australia we have no requirements to insulate the walls of new builds , we put in huge air conditioners and then complain about the price of electricity .
Ironic last name then! :)
🤣
My question is how does the vapor get out of the wood?
We need min r40 walls in Canada...r60 roof. Spray spray spray
Can this also be done to attic floor? Thanks
what is that green spray on the first 32" of the t studs"
Aero barrier and bat much more environmentally friendly Aero barrier and Rock Wool is hard to beat on Price and performance that’s why Owens Corning dropped the pink foam to flash with their fiberglass batts
This house is crazy. Putting up regular drywall seems anticlimactic.
He could put fiber cement boards for extra fire and water resistance.
@@highsoap In my 160 square foot house (half of my house is a kitchen the other half is bedroom and my L shaped glass desk) In the kitchen half I use cement board at the top and the bottom I used the green board for the bottom of the wall. Though by this time next year I was planning on getting a new 320 sq ft house but my truck engine died I got to buy a vehicle instead; that sets back my house buying by 5 years dammit. My current house I've lived in it for about 8 years.
He could have gone with structural panels we use in high end boats for bulkheads. 1/2” thick fibreglass/epoxy skinned end grain balsa core. Paints like a car(or boat). 4x8 sheets are $400 a piece.
On a flat roof 18’ tall in front, back is 10’ tall framing out 4” metal studs 14 ga on top putting plywood and metal roof. Is it ok to spray foam for condensation ? 1200 sq ft home.
What about putting open cell foam on top of the closed cell foam?
They did this to get a house up to passive house standards on This Old House once. This was in the Northeast so Rockwoll would have not provided enough R-Value to reach passive house standards.
Are t studs cheaper than a 2 x 6 in today prices?
@Matt Can you do a video on selective spectrum blocking films? I rent so I can't make drastic changes to the house (if I could even afford them) and it's frickin hot right now. I've heard UVA/UVB/IR blocking films can help with that. Though there are also downsides with them, like accidentally melting your neighbor's siding and not being able to put them on the inside of double/triple paned windows.
Also it'd be cool if you could experiment with putting them on a plexiglass sheet for quicker install/takedown. Just slide that up against the glass between the screen and the window. Maybe some double sided tape or tacky putty to hold it there over the summer so you can still open the windows in the evening.
Can you flash & bat these products in a roof insulation job?..would be phenomenal.
What’s the point of vapor open WRB/Zip if you are spraying vapor closed close-cell foam behind it? Please someone explain.
Zip isn't vapor open.. it's very low perm.
Zip is made from OSB. Which is very prone to water damage, regardless of what manufacturers claim. Since the zip is backed with a closed cell (vapor barrier), the idea is that the vapor open (outside surface) is necessary in order to allow the OSB to dry outward in the event that water makes it past (which it will, from over-driven fasteners, constructions scratches, and poor tape-jobs).
@@joshpit2003 perm 1 is not vapor open ..
@@joshpit2003 surprisingly huber zip OSB is pretty resilient to if left outside. I have a test board Ive left outside over a year explode to rain and sun and while noticeable greying/bleaching no bulging or degradation.I suspect they are elevragign their research nd manufacturing they've had so much success with re advantech sub flooring.Now admittedly my test board is drying optimally and no exposure to standing water, but hell, most PT wood wont stand up idneficntley to standing water.
@@joshpit2003 I looked up the product data. The Zip sheathing itself without the insulation is 12-16 perm, which is very Vapor open. But the insulation is less than 1 perm. I agree with your comment that the vapor openness is to counter any water intrusion from outside potential through compromise in the factory applied water/vapor barrier by fastener holes and etc. However, this is not supposed to be used if the concern is more for vapor drive coming from the inside, such as compromised vapor retarder in a northern heating dominant climate. What Matt is doing here with vapor closed spray foam in Texas would have no issue. But you probably want to avoid this assembly in northern climate, due to the vapor closeness of the whole assembly. The best would still be exterior insulation with some batt insulation that keep the sheathing in the warm side, with vapor open assembly to allow vapor drive outwards. Correct me if I am wrong.
Can anyone touch on the batt filling the cavities completely (I’m specifically wondering about the warm side). In the vid it says batts have to touch all 6 sides.
To help describe what I’m confused about: if you were to use a 2x4 sized batt in a 2x6 wall (FYI I’m not saying this) would it not perform as 2x4 batts would with 2x4 studs??
Thanks
I’d look at the channel Spray Jones, and watch his videos on the subject.
Yes, it would not perform well. The empty space allows an internal circulating convection current, which causes a lot of heat transfer. The primary purpose of insulation is to prevent these convection currents from forming. That is why it is important to completely fill the space.
Yes it would, since the extra exposed surfaces of the 2x6 would act as cooling/heating fins.
Can you recommend a good builder for middle Georgia?
What about the top of studs need to be sealed.
Where do I find the studs used in this video?
How can this be done when redoing the siding from the outside of the house? Put bat's down and spray foam over it?
When they spray the stuff on the roof Rafters and underlayment of a roof, if the roof leaks how can they tell where it's coming from? Doesn't it hold the moisture against the wood and then cause more damage instead of draining?
Closed cell still has a thermal bridge in every stud ,header,top and bottom plate unless you wrap with closed cell 1/2” jip on the outside of OSB .
I have seen horror stories on flash and batt. Would you suggest a blower door test and aerobarrier before the bat? to triple check to make sure there is no holes/ air leaks missed during the spray foam part?
@Bob Watters condensation on the bat causing mold and people having to rip and replace
@Bob Watters if there is any air coming thru the foam your screwed.. ie bad foam job
Bob go to about 8min mark..
th-cam.com/video/yrFIfg8A3i4/w-d-xo.html
If that is not the video.. this build had the problem.. they might have taken it down
I would like to do this process on a barndominium
,,,Mat Risner,,, I just built 2 different houses, one they had 1 to 1 1/2" of closed cell sprayed in and no bats . The other one they had 5 1/2" of open cell. So your saying that the one with closed sell needed bats , correct.
Off topic but, Matt, got your email on the OSB prices...more like 3x... seeing $80 sheet of OSB here. Crazy. 12/2 wiring is up too!
Wouldn't the spray foam act as a vapour barrier being placed facing the outside?
Yo yo
😃😃
Any concerns that the moisture in the wood encased in urethane will rot the wood and create mold? Also, sheathing fasteners could create a cold spot in the wood causing a potential for condensation.
but the zip-r takes care of thermal bridging...so why have the t-studs?
Belt and suspenders type of approach. Plus I'm sure that he is getting sponsored products with nearly everything he has used. Not free, but steeply discounted I would bet.