12/2/2024 So far it's bonded well, absorbs sound and allows my structure to be heated better than ever. Here is a link to the kit I bought, NOT sponsored. I do earn a small commission but it doesn't cost you any extra. amzn.to/4fSbMHp 12/4/2024 it was 25 degrees this morning while in the blind, although chilly inside, I can tell a HUGE difference between the before and after. My little propane burner could never keep the blind tolerable on such cold days without the insulation. At only 1-2 inches thick, the foam is not cold to the touch. The uninsulated wood floor is very cold to the touch. I am about to insulate it and the door. I should be set after that, other than removing the moisture from the room that the propane furnace emits. My heat pump AC/Heater should aid in that.
Contrary to popular belief it is LIGHTER than air and it's actually required by the EPA to mount it 5ft or higher. I couldn't pass my home inspection without one on the ceiling.
I use panels of foam board in the larger areas and then use the spray to seal the seams/joints. Makes the money go further. No need to spray the large open areas if a panel can cover. 1.5" or 2" or 3". take your pick.
This is what I was thinking. Also, the boards could be mounted on the 2x4s to make it fully insulated rather than having the thermal bridging of the exposed wood. I would wonder about moisture between the shell and the insulation though.
@@rogermccaslin5963 My pole barn is 2x6 construction. I use 1.5" foam board in the open flat areas between the 2x material and spray foam all seams. Then I use Rockwool 4" stuff to fill the overall voids before panelling the inside walls. Works great and no moisture issues.
@@rogermccaslin5963 some spray foams are vapor barriers and some allow moisture to pass, which he covers briefly in the video. You just have to pick the right one for where you’re insulating. In the UK they have a huge problem right now with incompetent installers used the wrong foam in roofing installations and the rafters all rotted out. You have a 100% valid concern so you have to research before you spray.
I used to work for an insulation company and I can tell you right now unless they specifically say they added another ingredient to that spray foam, you have no better insulation or sound deadening or insulating properties than any other spray foam on the market. It all comes down to the coverage and the thickness of the layers you're laying down. Yes there are some spray foams that are fire retardant and more but most of them are exactly the same no matter what company manufacturers them.
Foam is a terrible at sound proofing. All it does is add more surface area when exposed which acts like carpet to deflect sound in more directions. Add drywall or plywood over it and your back to an echo chamber. You need mass to deaden sound through walls. That's why mineral wool insulation works better - it's a lot denser.
This is a hunting blind. Mineral wool insulation would be completely inappropriate for this application. True, the closed cell foam doesn’t absorb sound but the surface isn’t smooth, so it diffuses sound waves. That’s why the foamed room sounds quieter than the smooth surface plywood. Installing carpeting to the sidewalls could absorb more sound. My former hunting blind in Michigan, circa 1998, had carpet on the floor and sidewalls. The blind was very quiet. I wish I could have installed closed cell spray foam. Congratulations on the closed cell spray foam insulation upgrade!
@@brucerider8361 Mineral wool completely inappropriate for this application? Why? Mineral wool does not absorb moisture like fiberglass insulation - it sheds water. Many use mineral wool as their exterior wall insulation. Bugs won't nest in mineral wool or eat it. Need to explain your "expert" opinion.
If it is like regular closed cell foam, R-value does not close to represent the actual heat retention. Even with only 1” you will be SHOCKED, likely 85-90% heat retention, we had a OSB where a skylight opening was, sprayed with one inch closed cell foam, and snow melts only a little quicker than the area that has 4” of closed cell foam.
@TKCL use regular spray foam as to seal the edges of the foam board and act as glue. The biggest problem with using those small cans is the uneven coverage, if you're not in an environment that's super cold then that's probably not as big of a deal. But when you spray it and you have sections that are 2 or 3 in thick and other sections that are barely an inch thick. It makes her pretty poor insulation in any place that's cold. Originally I wanted to use that spray stuff to do the roof on my shipping container, but the coverage is just too mediocre comparing to the cost of it and the consistency of the spray. To get proper coverage, you really need to use the larger two-part tanks, like the froth pack or less expensive tiger foam.
You're a brave soul to try this on camera for the first time! I think you did pretty good spraying it for your first time. I'm not a spray foam insulator. What I have done for 30 years is HVAC design. I learned from analyzing load calcs and playing with insulation values in the walls and roofs, your walls can basically be 7/16" OSB and it's fairly good. If I were to do what you're doing, I would have sprayed one coat on the walls, spraying about the speed you did at the very first of the video. I'd got a thin coat on the walls, no more. I would have put every single can I had left on the ceiling. Your major heat gain/loss is through the roof, no pun intended. Your heat is literally flowing up through the roof in the winter and pounding down on you in the summer. In the winter, you will see some solar heat gain from those cheap windows, but when the sun goes down or it's cloudy, it's no good. I love spray foam. Anything I build in the future will have 6" of spray foam in the ceiling/attic, 1-2" in walls.
Propane heat also is a wet heat. It will create moisture, along with your breathing. Once you get a different heater, maybe a mini split if you run power or a diesel heater would be a great addition. They are a dry heat. Or maybe even a cubic mini or wood stove. I plan a few kits like this for my skoolie bus build. Thanks for sharing your project. Keep up the good work.
@@TKCLAnything that burns will put off water vapor. H2O is a byproduct of combustion. A louvered vent near the ceiling would help vent ALL the combustion gasses, including those from your own breath. Just open it while you're inside and close it when you leave.
A couple of pieces of carpeting on the floor can make a huge difference in sound. You can move quieter. Capet padding underneath also can help. One does need to be careful about them not getting wet. Your stand looks like it has a good door and windows. Of course, if they do get wet, just toss them on a bush and let it dry.
I used it on the aluminum ceiling panels in a closed in patio…I wore gloves, safety glasses, tyvek suit with hood. The floating particles in the air sticks to everything. My muck boots were covered. The uncovered hair on my wrist had small particles stuck it. It got between my safety glasses and prescription glasses and ruined them. Be safe.
Did you prep your panels with anything before spraying? I have the same scenario, but I can't get the foam to stick to the aluminum ceiling panels that well...any suggestions?
Just simply sealing the gaps and stopping the cold wind from getting in makes a huge difference. Especially for us Florida boys, as we go into survival mode at 40 deg.
You addressed the price difference compared to normal insulation, the need to insulate the floor, and the carbon monoxide. Everything I was wondering about. Great attention to detail!
With spray foam you need more so gloves and old clothes cuz that stuff does not come off easy.. but mask? Nah. Stuff has very little voc’s and doesnt off gas any volatile compounds so your fine.. glasses are a good idea for anything because always manage to get shit in the eye. I wear em doing dishes.. lol
This is only single part foam, there are very little, if any, VOCs offgasing...very similar to generic gap and crack fillers. If this were a two part mix then it would be a different story.
@@cup_and_cone The issue are the very fine particles that rain down. If you watch closely then you will see them in the video. A cotton mask would be fine.
@@Z-Ack If you watch the video closely you can see the fine mist when he sprays the ceiling. I can tell you that when I had walls and attic done on a home everyone wore bunny suits, goggles, and dust masks.
Sealing up the air leaks around the windows and door is almost the most important thing and then on the walls the first thermal break makes the biggest difference. I have installed thousands or insulated overhead doors which often start around R6 or 10 and then the much more expensive lines are in the R20 range. It has been my experience that the double or more that you usually kave to pay for the high end doors doesen't pay off in comfort near the door or a big saving in heating costs so if you can get that space airtight I think you will be very comfortable. By the way I live on the Canadian prairies so it gets a little nippy here mid winter.
I like the idea for your little blind. You could get an insulated sleeping bag and hang it on the wall where the door is. I know of a guy who died in his sleep using propane to heat up. He was hunting, too.
I can see a foam board and spray foam sandwich construction taking off. The idea is to trap air so maybe foam board then spray then another board to close off a space. Well I'm just spitting ideas. 🙂
You can see the small particulates in the air when you spray. That gets in your lungs, expands, you die. Bro, wear a respirator or at least an N95 mask! Other than that, the stuff looks awesome for hunting blinds. I may use this in the future!
Nice job; and, thanks for doing this. I'm in an old house and was thinking about this in my basement at the 'sill' to do just as you said ...seal out all the little critters that love to come in and make a home. I like the foam board sandwich Idea below ... I was originally thinking spray just like you did; then, rockwool. Best to you.
For windows, look at the castles of Europe for archery slots in the stones. Out front, they look like 3" vertical slots, but from back they have120 degrees of opening space in the stone. Same principle for window coverings. Hang curtains from rope that slide left and right to open just a slot to shoot either rifle or bow. for solid window, use plexiglass on wood that slides left and right, with curtains on side of shooter.
You can also get some rolls of 1/4" pink foam insulation (like the thick foam board) and glue it over the studs and tape the seams. Completely airtight and will insulate the studs, making a huge difference for not too much cost. The propane heater near the foam concerns me though.
Good review of the spray foam insulation. Thanks for that. I found that for applications like this just getting a couple of packs of the foam locking floor tiles like for children's play areas is a cheap way to get quiet and some insulation in hunting blinds, yard hobby sheds, etc. Also provides a soft surface if you're gonna bivouac out there overnight.
DIY is a great new option with different types of kits available . We paid a contractor to spray open cell foam on the walls of a kitchen during renovation. His estimate was one-third the price from another contractor. Fortuntely for us, there was a reasonably-priced and reliable contractor in this area.
As others have said the propane heater is probably causing most of your moisture/condensation issue. A diesel heater or electric heater will probably give you a drier heat and not fog up the windows.
@@TKCL have you tried the new "Chinese diesel heaters" they vent the exhaust outside and I don't have any smell in my shed when it's running. Unless I've been eating chili then there is plenty of smell😂
I run propane heat in a insulated blind, although I didn't use spray foam except for sealing gaps and cracks. I actually put R5 accordion foam down and then covered that with some fiberglass and then sheet of the interior of the studs on the lower half my upper half is just the R5 accordion foam. My ceiling has inch and a half foam board between the studs I do get moisture issues but it's actually in my experience only for the first half a day of hunting every season. Once I get the moisture out of the wood itself, for the most part my window fogging and condensation on the Windows overall goes away. My blind is only a 5 by 5 but after about 6 hours or so of running the heat it dries it right out for the most part and the only place I see any condensation is along the small gaps on the edge of my windows
A few of the other comments mentioned moisture, if you don't get that under control the moist air will condense on the exposed wood and cause it to rot prematurely. Consider painting the wood with a paint that prevents the moist air from soaking into the wood or come up with some other strategy to reduce the humidity.
As you spoke on this video and coverage continued , you could tell from the sound of, tone in the blind that it was in fact helping already with your voice if that makes sense 👍🙏
My cousin is an assistant teacher to a lay-about head teacher of a building trades class and I'm going to try to get him to teach this to his class... this seems like a very useful skill
Hi Andrew, yes it definitely helped make it quieter for sure and would likely work for under the floor also. For the door you could use the foam board with liquid nails.
You could add radiant heat barier inside now , to make it warm like 5+ inches of wool But if you want to have it work in summer...use double sided one And if u want to have finishing layer like OSB or plywood etc you need to make at least 1/2 or better 1 inch spacing between radiant heat barier and OSB etc. For air gap so it can reflect heat PS radiant heat barier reflect heat like mirror , if anything touch it its like painting that mirror black....it wont reflect anything Imagine mirror with 1 inch space between it and osb and shine light between....it willgo trough (just like heat, reflecting from osb to osb all the way trough) now try to shine that light if there is no gap....thats why its important to reflect heat back to osb making main insulation work few x better ( in awerage 4inches of wool + radiant heat barier insulate long term like 16 to 20 inches of wool)
That definitely squashed the echo a bunch! Since the byproducts of propane combustion are CO2 and water vapor (that's all in an ideal world lol) you might get less condensation if you used the electric heater on low and turned off the propane. You're still breathing in there so you'll have condensation regardless of course, but it might help a bit to turn the propane off instead. Cheers!
I use to do sprayfoaming as employment. Our equipment used heated hoses and much higher nozzle pressures then what the cans offer. It all cames down to preparation and experience running the equipment or lack of. Because I had run an resin wetout gun and sprayed gelcoat it didn't take me long to get use to spraying foam. On jobs where things had to look good I was often the one on the gun.
Get ya a roll of that bubble foil insulation. Rolls like 50$ and put it on the ceiling and use the rest to drape on a wall.. itll cut down more on noise and will do a lot as a radiant barrier..
I've got a 27ft RV. I tore the OBS and carpet up, and swapping out some frame boards, and then I'm putting square foam down, and then coat the entire floor with soundproof foam. Then lay down OBS on top of the foam before it expands, so the foam goes into less resistance gaps. You know, after seeing the portion of the video after you came back, and window's fogging up...I may skip the square foam I was going to install.
You can literally hear the change in sound from the beginning to the first coat at 7:10 and its pretty cool that stuff def works pretty good for what ur getting.
First of all, NEVER build/buy a Quonset - unless you're storing hay or an airplane. They suck. (no vertical walls, can't insulate using panels). It's a mistake I've already made, so I'm stuck with it. (40x40ft, nearly 18ft tall in the center) I had hoped perhaps something like this might work so that in the summer/winter the building could be used more frequently. At night, around here, humidity goes through the roof - so even at 70F, it's unpleasant to work on your car. This seems too expensive! Recommendations? Thanks Folks! (Zone 7b, temps as high as 100F, low as 20F) Thank you for the vid! Well done, very informative.
Hi Andrew, that’s a pretty nice kit, seemed to do the job well and took most of the echo out. I have never seen those kits before, looks like the answer. To me it’s a pretty good product. 👍👍❤️❤️🇨🇦
I took out a diesel heater because of the noise and slight smell. I've never had condensation inside with a propane burner because it was so leaky before the spray foam.
I just did my shooting house about 2 weeks ago with the kraken foam from amazon. Only other thing i plan on doing is stapling carpet to the walls to give a darker backdrop and help more with the noise canceling. Another reason in doing the carpet is its cheap. I can do the entire interior of the shooting house thats a 6x8 with 7'6 walls for around 100 to 120
Great great video. Noticed that at the 1/2 way mark in video, after you did walls, the echo in you talking disappeared. I was skeptical of the sound proofing but seems self evident in vid. Thanks!!
The style of can shown in the vid. I have allowed to stay on foam guns for a few months and never had an issue. I also keep the little plastic tops if I want to change style of foam, insulation, fire block, window and door, or construction adhesive. FYI if you haven't tried the foam style construction adhesive. It's absolutely amazing for sub floors and sheet good. Nice thing is is takes up any gaps and you'll have a sealed, squeak free floor
Hey make sure when you spray foam the bottom of your shed that the foam isn't the type to just flake off and fly around. I sprayed this kind of foam into my bus conversion and when I drove with the windows down I had spray foam going EVERYWHERE. Small littles bits flake off. If you do spray the underside you might need to put some sort of barrier over the foam to prevent foam going all over your property on windy days.
You need air to flow in your cabin now, especially with closed cells you don’t have anywhere for your breathing humidity to go, so it makes a mess on your window, put a breathing holes on the bottom of your cabin door and the top of your windows front, and you’ll not have any issues in the futur, if you don’t you expose yourself to moisture! Good hunt 👍
Definitely not as messy as the 2 part stuff with the hose and 2 tanks that look like grill propane tanks. Last time I did that it was horrible messy but it was a 4 foot tall crawl space. Hope it works out for you been wanting to try some of that I no there are some that's a bit cheaper good luck
Just an FYI for those that want to try it. There's a video here on TH-cam about insurance companies in England and thereabouts demanding spray foam insulation be removed from homes. Why? Well, there's what's called 'open cell' and 'closed cell' foam. Open cell foam is like a sponge and the humidity from inside the heated building collects on the colder wood and turns back into liquid. Thus the wood parts of the house (especially rafters) stay wet and will rot due to the foam. Now, this is obviously just a blind building, so no big deal AND this foam claims it prevents the 'formation of dewpoints' (so it's closed cell?) but I bet that very much depends on how well it's applied. But just to be safe, I wouldn't spay this in my home attic (even though I'm a big DIY guy myself).
The people in the UK are idiots in a cool, humid climate not understanding how to renovate the buildings they are working in. They're often doing open cell with no vapor barrier. It's not so hard to build an air channel to let the roof dry out, to make sure the roof is in good condition before spraying or to just use other kinds of insulation that make more sense for a given house.
For most foam guns, you don’t need to clean it out after every use, really, just if it’s going to sit for more than 30 days unused. So, if you switch right over from one can to the next, no cleaning needed between cans, less toxic fumes and chemicals used and exposed.
I can only tell by the electric unit I briefly ran. I don't have thermometer in the blind. That morning outside was 29 and it was 55 inside when I powered off the electric unit.
Man I wonder if it wouldn’t be more effective to just put in some fiberglass. You’ve got a heat pump, I’d drywall and trim that bad boy out if I had a stand that luxurious. The naps I’d take in there would be legendary.
The detector is a great idea... but remember that ANY combustion uses oxygen. Maybe no CO2 alarm, but asphyxiation can still happen w/o some kind of outside air intake.
Good educational DIY video. Questions about PPE when applying product. eye protection and respiratory protection? Had you considered rock wool vs foam board vs spray on foam? Thank you keep up the good work, ready for your next video. Cheers
I was hoping to see what 2" thick would look like. That's the ideal thickness for most homes. A small ac/heat pump would be ideal if you have the power.
i wonder if it would be almost as good but cheaper to put foam board in the middle of those sections and then spray the foam around each of the boards. even if there were 3-5 inches around all sides of the board that would be at least half as much foam.
Between you, the dog, and the propane heaters, you'll never get the moisture off the windows. A small wood stove will pull the moisture out with the smoke and you will need to let some fresh air in. Some hunters believe this burns up your scent too.
I didn't watch the entire video, but I noticed there was no vapor barrier. I just saw a video by Matt Risinger talking about insurance companies in the U.K. refusing to insure homes that had spray foam only in the cavities between the rafters on roofs. Apparently, over time, the moisture/condensation soaks the rood and rots it out. I think he recommended using a vapor barrier an/or closed-cell foam. I'm interested to see if you experience this issue.
You should spray under the floor as well. That's where it will be the coldest. Plus you should use something else besides propane because it puts moisture in the air and causes condisation.
12/2/2024 So far it's bonded well, absorbs sound and allows my structure to be heated better than ever. Here is a link to the kit I bought, NOT sponsored. I do earn a small commission but it doesn't cost you any extra. amzn.to/4fSbMHp
12/4/2024 it was 25 degrees this morning while in the blind, although chilly inside, I can tell a HUGE difference between the before and after. My little propane burner could never keep the blind tolerable on such cold days without the insulation. At only 1-2 inches thick, the foam is not cold to the touch. The uninsulated wood floor is very cold to the touch. I am about to insulate it and the door. I should be set after that, other than removing the moisture from the room that the propane furnace emits. My heat pump AC/Heater should aid in that.
I would put the carbon monoxide detector down near the floor personally.
Contrary to popular belief it is LIGHTER than air and it's actually required by the EPA to mount it 5ft or higher. I couldn't pass my home inspection without one on the ceiling.
@@TKCL Not sure how i thought it was heavier than air. Must be the Mandela effect. Or confused it with Co2.
@@yukoncornelius8669 it's extremely common thinking that it's heavier. Sadly a lot of people put their detectors in the wrong location.
You might be thinking of a propane detector (like in an RV). Those need to be mounted low.
I use panels of foam board in the larger areas and then use the spray to seal the seams/joints. Makes the money go further. No need to spray the large open areas if a panel can cover. 1.5" or 2" or 3". take your pick.
This is what I was thinking. Also, the boards could be mounted on the 2x4s to make it fully insulated rather than having the thermal bridging of the exposed wood. I would wonder about moisture between the shell and the insulation though.
Same here
@@rogermccaslin5963 My pole barn is 2x6 construction. I use 1.5" foam board in the open flat areas between the 2x material and spray foam all seams. Then I use Rockwool 4" stuff to fill the overall voids before panelling the inside walls. Works great and no moisture issues.
@@rogermccaslin5963 some spray foams are vapor barriers and some allow moisture to pass, which he covers briefly in the video. You just have to pick the right one for where you’re insulating. In the UK they have a huge problem right now with incompetent installers used the wrong foam in roofing installations and the rafters all rotted out. You have a 100% valid concern so you have to research before you spray.
Also the foam board has more ridgid and tough foam compared to the spray foam that comes out of those cans.
I used to work for an insulation company and I can tell you right now unless they specifically say they added another ingredient to that spray foam, you have no better insulation or sound deadening or insulating properties than any other spray foam on the market. It all comes down to the coverage and the thickness of the layers you're laying down. Yes there are some spray foams that are fire retardant and more but most of them are exactly the same no matter what company manufacturers them.
Your overlapping way to. Much ,your wasting the material also a can of carburetor cleaner will clean your nozzle out for u
Foam is a terrible at sound proofing. All it does is add more surface area when exposed which acts like carpet to deflect sound in more directions. Add drywall or plywood over it and your back to an echo chamber. You need mass to deaden sound through walls. That's why mineral wool insulation works better - it's a lot denser.
This is a hunting blind. Mineral wool insulation would be completely inappropriate for this application. True, the closed cell foam doesn’t absorb sound but the surface isn’t smooth, so it diffuses sound waves. That’s why the foamed room sounds quieter than the smooth surface plywood. Installing carpeting to the sidewalls could absorb more sound. My former hunting blind in Michigan, circa 1998, had carpet on the floor and sidewalls. The blind was very quiet. I wish I could have installed closed cell spray foam. Congratulations on the closed cell spray foam insulation upgrade!
@@brucerider8361 Mineral wool completely inappropriate for this application? Why? Mineral wool does not absorb moisture like fiberglass insulation - it sheds water. Many use mineral wool as their exterior wall insulation. Bugs won't nest in mineral wool or eat it. Need to explain your "expert" opinion.
Explique melhor sobre a inflamabilidade... existem ampolas tipo inflamabilidade A, B ou C..??
If it is like regular closed cell foam, R-value does not close to represent the actual heat retention. Even with only 1” you will be SHOCKED, likely 85-90% heat retention, we had a OSB where a skylight opening was, sprayed with one inch closed cell foam, and snow melts only a little quicker than the area that has 4” of closed cell foam.
@@renurenovationsllc7780 all polyurathane sprays are closed cell
a few sheets of 1.5" foam sheets from HD are 20$ each... way cheaper
R-Tech
1 1/2 in x 48 in. x 8 ft. R-5.78 EPS Rigid Foam Board Insulation
Yes, but they don't seal as well and it's a lot more work. I love how well spray foam seals ALL gaps.
@TKCL use regular spray foam as to seal the edges of the foam board and act as glue.
The biggest problem with using those small cans is the uneven coverage, if you're not in an environment that's super cold then that's probably not as big of a deal. But when you spray it and you have sections that are 2 or 3 in thick and other sections that are barely an inch thick. It makes her pretty poor insulation in any place that's cold.
Originally I wanted to use that spray stuff to do the roof on my shipping container, but the coverage is just too mediocre comparing to the cost of it and the consistency of the spray.
To get proper coverage, you really need to use the larger two-part tanks, like the froth pack or less expensive tiger foam.
You're a brave soul to try this on camera for the first time! I think you did pretty good spraying it for your first time. I'm not a spray foam insulator.
What I have done for 30 years is HVAC design. I learned from analyzing load calcs and playing with insulation values in the walls and roofs, your walls can basically be 7/16" OSB and it's fairly good. If I were to do what you're doing, I would have sprayed one coat on the walls, spraying about the speed you did at the very first of the video. I'd got a thin coat on the walls, no more.
I would have put every single can I had left on the ceiling. Your major heat gain/loss is through the roof, no pun intended. Your heat is literally flowing up through the roof in the winter and pounding down on you in the summer. In the winter, you will see some solar heat gain from those cheap windows, but when the sun goes down or it's cloudy, it's no good.
I love spray foam. Anything I build in the future will have 6" of spray foam in the ceiling/attic, 1-2" in walls.
Propane heat also is a wet heat. It will create moisture, along with your breathing. Once you get a different heater, maybe a mini split if you run power or a diesel heater would be a great addition. They are a dry heat. Or maybe even a cubic mini or wood stove.
I plan a few kits like this for my skoolie bus build. Thanks for sharing your project. Keep up the good work.
Had a diesel heater, loud and smells. I am seriously considering a tiny wood stove for the cool factor.
@@TKCLcheck out a Nu-Way stove. Works great in my Cargo conversion. I use the propane version.
@@TKCLAnything that burns will put off water vapor. H2O is a byproduct of combustion. A louvered vent near the ceiling would help vent ALL the combustion gasses, including those from your own breath. Just open it while you're inside and close it when you leave.
apparently there are propane heaters that do provide dry heat. ie camco olympian. its cost 700 bucks though
Yeah, the deer won't care if there's a generator or mini split running lol
Your Air B&b is looking great. Great job.
How much you think I can get a night? 🤔
Atleast 7
@@TKCLdepends on location 😂
@@comfortablynumb9342 love the name "Pink Floyd"
@TKCL Pink Floyd and Dire Straits are my favorites
A couple of pieces of carpeting on the floor can make a huge difference in sound. You can move quieter. Capet padding underneath also can help. One does need to be careful about them not getting wet. Your stand looks like it has a good door and windows. Of course, if they do get wet, just toss them on a bush and let it dry.
I used it on the aluminum ceiling panels in a closed in patio…I wore gloves, safety glasses, tyvek suit with hood. The floating particles in the air sticks to everything. My muck boots were covered. The uncovered hair on my wrist had small particles stuck it. It got between my safety glasses and prescription glasses and ruined them. Be safe.
Did you prep your panels with anything before spraying? I have the same scenario, but I can't get the foam to stick to the aluminum ceiling panels that well...any suggestions?
Oh no! An aerosol product and particles in the air? Who that woulda thought that would happen!?
@@InformateSiempreit won’t stick to oil based paints or anything too dirty
3M spray adhesive on the aluminum before ... Let it dry fully then go ahead and spray the foam @@InformateSiempre
Just simply sealing the gaps and stopping the cold wind from getting in makes a huge difference. Especially for us Florida boys, as we go into survival mode at 40 deg.
LOL isn't that the truth! It was 25 degrees this morning, so glad I insulated.
FL boy here. Hell, at 60 I'm wearing layers and a beanie cap. When it gets to 40 I go into hibernation.
Survival mode at 40 degrees 😂😂. I don't even start wearing a sweatshirt until it hits 40.
@shawnk7084 I've shoveled snow at negative 40. Florida people wouldn't survive Iowa winters lol.
You addressed the price difference compared to normal insulation, the need to insulate the floor, and the carbon monoxide. Everything I was wondering about. Great attention to detail!
Brother I'm not osha but damn a mask and glasses go along way for your health
Aerosols generate a very fine mist of particles and your lungs could become insulated too.
With spray foam you need more so gloves and old clothes cuz that stuff does not come off easy.. but mask? Nah. Stuff has very little voc’s and doesnt off gas any volatile compounds so your fine.. glasses are a good idea for anything because always manage to get shit in the eye. I wear em doing dishes.. lol
This is only single part foam, there are very little, if any, VOCs offgasing...very similar to generic gap and crack fillers. If this were a two part mix then it would be a different story.
@@cup_and_cone The issue are the very fine particles that rain down. If you watch closely then you will see them in the video. A cotton mask would be fine.
@@Z-Ack If you watch the video closely you can see the fine mist when he sprays the ceiling. I can tell you that when I had walls and attic done on a home everyone wore bunny suits, goggles, and dust masks.
Sealing up the air leaks around the windows and door is almost the most important thing and then on the walls the first thermal break makes the biggest difference. I have installed thousands or insulated overhead doors which often start around R6 or 10 and then the much more expensive lines are in the R20 range. It has been my experience that the double or more that you usually kave to pay for the high end doors doesen't pay off in comfort near the door or a big saving in heating costs so if you can get that space airtight I think you will be very comfortable. By the way I live on the Canadian prairies so it gets a little nippy here mid winter.
I have no idea what this is , will probably never use it, but I’m fascinated
I like the idea for your little blind. You could get an insulated sleeping bag and hang it on the wall where the door is. I know of a guy who died in his sleep using propane to heat up. He was hunting, too.
I can see a foam board and spray foam sandwich construction taking off. The idea is to trap air so maybe foam board then spray then another board to close off a space. Well I'm just spitting ideas. 🙂
You can see the small particulates in the air when you spray. That gets in your lungs, expands, you die. Bro, wear a respirator or at least an N95 mask!
Other than that, the stuff looks awesome for hunting blinds. I may use this in the future!
Nice job; and, thanks for doing this. I'm in an old house and was thinking about this in my basement at the 'sill' to do just as you said ...seal out all the little critters that love to come in and make a home. I like the foam board sandwich Idea below ... I was originally thinking spray just like you did; then, rockwool. Best to you.
For windows, look at the castles of Europe for archery slots in the stones. Out front, they look like 3" vertical slots, but from back they have120 degrees of opening space in the stone. Same principle for window coverings. Hang curtains from rope that slide left and right to open just a slot to shoot either rifle or bow. for solid window, use plexiglass on wood that slides left and right, with curtains on side of shooter.
You can also get some rolls of 1/4" pink foam insulation (like the thick foam board) and glue it over the studs and tape the seams. Completely airtight and will insulate the studs, making a huge difference for not too much cost. The propane heater near the foam concerns me though.
Looks good, sounds quieter, and the sound of it a lot warmer than the past. Good job on the work.
It does the job
Good review of the spray foam insulation. Thanks for that. I found that for applications like this just getting a couple of packs of the foam locking floor tiles like for children's play areas is a cheap way to get quiet and some insulation in hunting blinds, yard hobby sheds, etc. Also provides a soft surface if you're gonna bivouac out there overnight.
DIY is a great new option with different types of kits available . We paid a contractor to spray open cell foam on the walls of a kitchen during renovation. His estimate was one-third the price from another contractor. Fortuntely for us, there was a reasonably-priced and reliable contractor in this area.
We were lucky to find a good contractor as well.
@TKCL The expensive company had a receptionist, an estimator, and installers. The other guy had his son.
Verify the engineering yourself. Spray foam can ruin a home if used in the wrong way in the wrong area. Not difficult to make a huge mistake.
As others have said the propane heater is probably causing most of your moisture/condensation issue. A diesel heater or electric heater will probably give you a drier heat and not fog up the windows.
I was running a diesel heater, however it was too loud and smelled.
@@TKCL have you tried the new "Chinese diesel heaters" they vent the exhaust outside and I don't have any smell in my shed when it's running. Unless I've been eating chili then there is plenty of smell😂
I run propane heat in a insulated blind, although I didn't use spray foam except for sealing gaps and cracks. I actually put R5 accordion foam down and then covered that with some fiberglass and then sheet of the interior of the studs on the lower half my upper half is just the R5 accordion foam. My ceiling has inch and a half foam board between the studs
I do get moisture issues but it's actually in my experience only for the first half a day of hunting every season. Once I get the moisture out of the wood itself, for the most part my window fogging and condensation on the Windows overall goes away. My blind is only a 5 by 5 but after about 6 hours or so of running the heat it dries it right out for the most part and the only place I see any condensation is along the small gaps on the edge of my windows
FIRST thing I noticed was no respirator or eye protection. 🤠 Going cowboy on us!
Yeehaw
Thanks man I was always curious how those worked. It was a good video. I learned a lot.
Glad you enjoyed!
A few of the other comments mentioned moisture, if you don't get that under control the moist air will condense on the exposed wood and cause it to rot prematurely. Consider painting the wood with a paint that prevents the moist air from soaking into the wood or come up with some other strategy to reduce the humidity.
It will condense on the windows first and then run down into the window sills and wall below.
What was the temperature in the structure at the end?
As you spoke on this video and coverage continued , you could tell from the sound of, tone in the blind that it was in fact helping already with your voice if that makes sense 👍🙏
That's very true
My cousin is an assistant teacher to a lay-about head teacher of a building trades class and I'm going to try to get him to teach this to his class... this seems like a very useful skill
Hi Andrew, yes it definitely helped make it quieter for sure and would likely work for under the floor also. For the door you could use the foam board with liquid nails.
I wonder how well it would expand on your eyeball? Safety goggles. Nice video.
😂😂😂
I had nothing but confidence in you to make it work my friend.
Thanks for the support. It was worth a try.
Thank you! I was wondering how well this worked!😊
Glad it was helpful!
Now you need a small HRV or ERV to get out the moisture and hold in the heat.
Can be made with plastic open core boards and two fans. For very cheap
Hmmmmmm I'm very interested in that, do you have any TH-cam videos for reference?
You could add radiant heat barier inside now , to make it warm like 5+ inches of wool
But if you want to have it work in summer...use double sided one
And if u want to have finishing layer like OSB or plywood etc you need to make at least 1/2 or better 1 inch spacing between radiant heat barier and OSB etc. For air gap so it can reflect heat
PS
radiant heat barier reflect heat like mirror , if anything touch it its like painting that mirror black....it wont reflect anything
Imagine mirror with 1 inch space between it and osb and shine light between....it willgo trough (just like heat, reflecting from osb to osb all the way trough) now try to shine that light if there is no gap....thats why its important to reflect heat back to osb making main insulation work few x better ( in awerage 4inches of wool + radiant heat barier insulate long term like 16 to 20 inches of wool)
That definitely squashed the echo a bunch! Since the byproducts of propane combustion are CO2 and water vapor (that's all in an ideal world lol) you might get less condensation if you used the electric heater on low and turned off the propane. You're still breathing in there so you'll have condensation regardless of course, but it might help a bit to turn the propane off instead. Cheers!
You can hear how well it was insulating the sound as you went along. neat stuff
Made a huge difference!
I use to do sprayfoaming as employment. Our equipment used heated hoses and much higher nozzle pressures then what the cans offer. It all cames down to preparation and experience running the equipment or lack of.
Because I had run an resin wetout gun and sprayed gelcoat it didn't take me long to get use to spraying foam. On jobs where things had to look good I was often the one on the gun.
I was curious about those spray foam kits. Thank you Andrew
you already read my mind about the floor! make sure you clean up the Smurf poop!
Lol that's funny and of course you have to talk about poop.
@@TKCL you gotta love our Adam.
Thank You for showing me
I,m in the heat & air business and can see this would fix some problems we have
Again thanks I had no idea this was available
Glad to help, it really can be a lifesaver on some jobs.
Get ya a roll of that bubble foil insulation. Rolls like 50$ and put it on the ceiling and use the rest to drape on a wall.. itll cut down more on noise and will do a lot as a radiant barrier..
Great video! Humid HTX here and this would be great to spray HVAC Ceiling Box registers.
Go for it
I've got a 27ft RV. I tore the OBS and carpet up, and swapping out some frame boards, and then I'm putting square foam down, and then coat the entire floor with soundproof foam. Then lay down OBS on top of the foam before it expands, so the foam goes into less resistance gaps. You know, after seeing the portion of the video after you came back, and window's fogging up...I may skip the square foam I was going to install.
Windows fogged because of the moisture produced by non vented propane burning. An rv has a vented furnace.
You can literally hear the change in sound from the beginning to the first coat at 7:10 and its pretty cool that stuff def works pretty good for what ur getting.
Made a huge sound difference.
First of all, NEVER build/buy a Quonset - unless you're storing hay or an airplane. They suck. (no vertical walls, can't insulate using panels).
It's a mistake I've already made, so I'm stuck with it. (40x40ft, nearly 18ft tall in the center)
I had hoped perhaps something like this might work so that in the summer/winter the building could be used more frequently. At night, around here, humidity goes through the roof - so even at 70F, it's unpleasant to work on your car.
This seems too expensive! Recommendations? Thanks Folks!
(Zone 7b, temps as high as 100F, low as 20F)
Thank you for the vid! Well done, very informative.
Hi Andrew, that’s a pretty nice kit, seemed to do the job well and took most of the echo out. I have never seen those kits before, looks like the answer. To me it’s a pretty good product. 👍👍❤️❤️🇨🇦
also adding sheetrock or drywall will improve the insulation even further. you'll be a cozy hunter
Hold a match to the exposed foam and test for flame spread. If it is fire retardant, then worry about chemical dusting into your lungs.
Now that your sealed up, Look into diesel heaters. They are very cheap but allow you to exhaust the CO outside.
Burning propane is causing all the condensation. You need a diesel heater. Great video. I'm going to buy a box of spray foam for a project.
I took out a diesel heater because of the noise and slight smell. I've never had condensation inside with a propane burner because it was so leaky before the spray foam.
I just did my shooting house about 2 weeks ago with the kraken foam from amazon.
Only other thing i plan on doing is stapling carpet to the walls to give a darker backdrop and help more with the noise canceling. Another reason in doing the carpet is its cheap. I can do the entire interior of the shooting house thats a 6x8 with 7'6 walls for around 100 to 120
I have heard good things about that foam!
Glad it works well. May need to do that in my box blind
It works, but it's pricey!
Great idea! Thanks for doing this. I may have a use for it in the near future.
Great great video.
Noticed that at the 1/2 way mark in video, after you did walls, the echo in you talking disappeared. I was skeptical of the sound proofing but seems self evident in vid.
Thanks!!
The style of can shown in the vid. I have allowed to stay on foam guns for a few months and never had an issue. I also keep the little plastic tops if I want to change style of foam, insulation, fire block, window and door, or construction adhesive. FYI if you haven't tried the foam style construction adhesive. It's absolutely amazing for sub floors and sheet good. Nice thing is is takes up any gaps and you'll have a sealed, squeak free floor
That’s good to know, thanks!
@TKCL i should edit my comment. I wrote it while driving. Reading it back looks like wear a helmet and carry a drool rag lol.
Great video Andrew and very timely for me as I build my own blind.
Glad it was helpful!
Great info i would of prayed the 2x4 also . when they spray foamed my whole attic they covered everything up there.
Foam board might be cheaper, or bat rockwool... Cost has to be considered. I can see a combined installation. Thanks for the video.
It is for sure cheaper, but no doubt spray foam seals better than anything else. It was the right choice for this application.
Hey make sure when you spray foam the bottom of your shed that the foam isn't the type to just flake off and fly around. I sprayed this kind of foam into my bus conversion and when I drove with the windows down I had spray foam going EVERYWHERE. Small littles bits flake off. If you do spray the underside you might need to put some sort of barrier over the foam to prevent foam going all over your property on windy days.
Closed cell gets a hard skin. Sounds like you used open cell.
Always read hazmat warnings and use appropriate PPE
7 sheets of fosm board after works amazing
Really cool looking product. Might have to order some (with your link of course)
Appreciate it!
“I’m going too fast” ….continues to go too fast😂🤣😂 I identify👍
Lol
Very nice. 👍🏻
You need air to flow in your cabin now, especially with closed cells you don’t have anywhere for your breathing humidity to go, so it makes a mess on your window, put a breathing holes on the bottom of your cabin door and the top of your windows front, and you’ll not have any issues in the futur, if you don’t you expose yourself to moisture! Good hunt 👍
Very impressive!
Definitely not as messy as the 2 part stuff with the hose and 2 tanks that look like grill propane tanks. Last time I did that it was horrible messy but it was a 4 foot tall crawl space. Hope it works out for you been wanting to try some of that I no there are some that's a bit cheaper good luck
Good job!
Just an FYI for those that want to try it. There's a video here on TH-cam about insurance companies in England and thereabouts demanding spray foam insulation be removed from homes. Why? Well, there's what's called 'open cell' and 'closed cell' foam. Open cell foam is like a sponge and the humidity from inside the heated building collects on the colder wood and turns back into liquid. Thus the wood parts of the house (especially rafters) stay wet and will rot due to the foam.
Now, this is obviously just a blind building, so no big deal AND this foam claims it prevents the 'formation of dewpoints' (so it's closed cell?) but I bet that very much depends on how well it's applied. But just to be safe, I wouldn't spay this in my home attic (even though I'm a big DIY guy myself).
The people in the UK are idiots in a cool, humid climate not understanding how to renovate the buildings they are working in. They're often doing open cell with no vapor barrier.
It's not so hard to build an air channel to let the roof dry out, to make sure the roof is in good condition before spraying or to just use other kinds of insulation that make more sense for a given house.
Great video. Thank you for posting
For most foam guns, you don’t need to clean it out after every use, really, just if it’s going to sit for more than 30 days unused. So, if you switch right over from one can to the next, no cleaning needed between cans, less toxic fumes and chemicals used and exposed.
What is the temp difference, inside vs outside?
I can only tell by the electric unit I briefly ran. I don't have thermometer in the blind. That morning outside was 29 and it was 55 inside when I powered off the electric unit.
Awesome video man
Thanks for the support
This was an awesome video!
Thanks for the support
Man I wonder if it wouldn’t be more effective to just put in some fiberglass.
You’ve got a heat pump, I’d drywall and trim that bad boy out if I had a stand that luxurious. The naps I’d take in there would be legendary.
The detector is a great idea... but remember that ANY combustion uses oxygen. Maybe no CO2 alarm, but asphyxiation can still happen w/o some kind of outside air intake.
I always crack a window often.
Good educational DIY video. Questions about PPE when applying product. eye protection and respiratory protection? Had you considered rock wool vs foam board vs spray on foam? Thank you keep up the good work, ready for your next video. Cheers
I had but wool doesn't seal leaky gaps and cracks I have.
I was hoping to see what 2" thick would look like. That's the ideal thickness for most homes. A small ac/heat pump would be ideal if you have the power.
I do have a small heat pump in there. I will have to respray to get 2+ inches thick.
Outstanding thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Lol I'm looking at this for my deer stand to
i wonder if it would be almost as good but cheaper to put foam board in the middle of those sections and then spray the foam around each of the boards. even if there were 3-5 inches around all sides of the board that would be at least half as much foam.
great idea and well needed good video , now just need fiber out there too HA HA -- glad you have fiber in the garage now thanks
Glad you liked the video!
Thank you for this video
Glad you found it helpful!
@@TKCL Very much so don't have a hunting blind but am looking about doing a shed
Thanks for the time you’ve put into this for us. I’m very interested, and hope you reply.
What AC unit are you using.
Here is the review I did on it and links are in the video description th-cam.com/video/o4qv_sK2_c8/w-d-xo.html
Between you, the dog, and the propane heaters, you'll never get the moisture off the windows. A small wood stove will pull the moisture out with the smoke and you will need to let some fresh air in. Some hunters believe this burns up your scent too.
No need to mask the scent. That foam scent will keep all the deer 1 mile away anyway.
I am curious if he will catch something this year …
You should look into diesel heaters instead of propane. Propane has moisture, diesel is clean dry air.
The propane heater will add moisture to the air- you would do best to stick with the ecoflow
I didn't watch the entire video, but I noticed there was no vapor barrier. I just saw a video by Matt Risinger talking about insurance companies in the U.K. refusing to insure homes that had spray foam only in the cavities between the rafters on roofs. Apparently, over time, the moisture/condensation soaks the rood and rots it out. I think he recommended using a vapor barrier an/or closed-cell foam. I'm interested to see if you experience this issue.
Closed cell foam is a vapor barrier.
You should spray under the floor as well. That's where it will be the coldest. Plus you should use something else besides propane because it puts moisture in the air and causes condisation.
I have an electric heater as well. Spraying the floor later this week.
You will notice some additional moisture because one of the byproducts of burning propane is water.
Yes, but I never noticed it before because the structure was so leaky.
You should look into the Amazon diesel heaters
With those last TWO CANS you should SPRAY UNDER THE FLOOR!! That would help deaden the sound of chairs rolling on floor
I mentioned in the video I am doing that.
1"x2" trim board on door, with angle support. Then spray.
Agreed, that's what I was thinking about doing.
Those diesel cab heaters are indirect, so the products of combustion vent out. That will be a drier heat and no extra co2. I’m jealous.
That's what I just took out of their. Worked awesome, but stunk and was loud.
@ 😂
Put a Nu-way propane stove or any other vented heater in there and it will solve your condensation problem.
Is it closed cell foam? You can buy two tanks with sprayer etc online as well. Closed cell foam is the best for insulation
Yes it is
@ thank you
My company uses that. I just saw it at the shop last friday & didnt know what it was until right now.