I was running a light weight flywheel on my build listed below which is my daily driver and I went back to the stock flywheel and don’t regret it at all it revs a little slower but not really noticeable but feels a lot better pulling off and gear changes plus I feel it’s so much better for stop and go traffic
@markwallace5274 I wonder if I'll regret that too. Although this isn't a daily, I will have to drive on normal roads. Ah well, better to regret something you did, than something you didn't.
Big respect for going built B20 vs a K swap nowadays. A high comp B20 is a force to be reckoned with, which a lot of the new school don't understand because it's a more complicated build.
Thanks bud! Everything's K Series now but there was a time when everything was B Series... I guess I'm just old school! I don't think B is necessarily better than K but it's my preference.
Yup I agree. I had an issue with a decent built 220hp/170tq b20v for ten or so years. I went ahead and moved to a stock with k24a with just bolt ons, now makes 229hp/193tq and purrs since it's stock. It would've cost around the same either way, selling all b20v stuff and going K or just rebuilding the lower half of the b20 block with machine shop labor.
@@scottmog Yeah there's a solid reason K Swaps are popular, they're simply good! For me though, on this car, B Series is period correct and I just love B Series VTEC crossover!
@@scottmog sir your b20 some issues can you explain What issues your b series. because I am also thinking built B series.So that I can know what was the problem in your B series too (plz explain it)
Keen to follow this build, it’s going to scream! I have a stock b16a motor and paired it with a full exhaust from fujitsubo and a Gruppe M ram intake, it sounds so bloody good and so much fun to drive.
@@DanozDirectional I bet that sounds ace! This won't be revving as high as a B16 but will still sound fire I think. The exhaust is one thing I haven't decided on yet. As the head is ported, ideally I want a custom port matched manifold. Thanks for the comment dude, and welcome to the channel ✊️
Nice build !! Our builds are similar mine was more on a budget here are the specs for mine B20B bottom end stock rods with arp bolt kit Nippon Racing P30 84.5mm pistons New Oem Type R/GSR oil pump King Racing main & rod bearings Ported GSR Head with Ferrea 5000 series valves SuperTech 85lbs springs with BC steel retainers Skunk2 LMA’s Blox Type B cams with Skunk 2 Pro series cam gears topped off with Ultra Street Intake manifold decapped LS injectors and a PLM Big Tube 4-1 megaphone header 2.5” exhaust tuned on E85 S300
Very nice mate. Just noticed your inlet manifold is for a c2 motor with the round water whole and your head on the a1 has the square whole. I found that out the hard way myself with my car. Look forward to seeing more of the build. Good luck 👍
Thanks mate! Subbed to you also, always good to find more honda knowledge ✊ Out of curiosity did the algorythm push it to you or did you find me in search?
I’m curious nippon sales a P30 style piston I was reading online it said to put your car around 13:1 compression with b20b block and b16 head since it’s domed piston
While im sure there's no harm fitting it, I'm lead to believe the block guards dont do too much to help the B20s from cracking. Have a look at how the oem bore liners are all one piece, compared to the individual units in B16s and 18s. Either way, following along for inspiration for when my old clapped out B20V needs some love.
I built a high comp b20b8 yes a b20b8 it was an Australian version it has stock full iron sleeves designed like a b18, I did a pro style devcon block came out mint fully built non vtec boosted held 18 psi no sweat.. b series is a great motor…
Oh 4.92 wow update us on how that goes, 4.78 possibly and that's as high for daily, dig that flywheel I went with 8 pounde flywheel and was mistake switched back to stock as 8 pound on 1-2 shift pulled rpms down alot with aggressive clutch 12-14 pound is magic number I'm thinking but steel or chromeoly aluminum isn't where it's at least from what I experienced
@4077661466jp hey man, thanks for the comment, this is great info! I know that the flywheel being too light can cause problems as you describe but I never bothered to weigh it, and I should have. I want to know what weight it is now, but it's bolted up to the crank... There will be detailed updates on the channel 👍
Is there anything you'd do differently?
I was running a light weight flywheel on my build listed below which is my daily driver and I went back to the stock flywheel and don’t regret it at all it revs a little slower but not really noticeable but feels a lot better pulling off and gear changes plus I feel it’s so much better for stop and go traffic
@markwallace5274 I wonder if I'll regret that too. Although this isn't a daily, I will have to drive on normal roads. Ah well, better to regret something you did, than something you didn't.
@@DangerPooleMotorsyou won’t regret it. I love the fast reving…. It’s also not my daily lol
Big respect for going built B20 vs a K swap nowadays. A high comp B20 is a force to be reckoned with, which a lot of the new school don't understand because it's a more complicated build.
Thanks bud! Everything's K Series now but there was a time when everything was B Series... I guess I'm just old school! I don't think B is necessarily better than K but it's my preference.
Yup I agree. I had an issue with a decent built 220hp/170tq b20v for ten or so years. I went ahead and moved to a stock with k24a with just bolt ons, now makes 229hp/193tq and purrs since it's stock. It would've cost around the same either way, selling all b20v stuff and going K or just rebuilding the lower half of the b20 block with machine shop labor.
@@scottmog Yeah there's a solid reason K Swaps are popular, they're simply good! For me though, on this car, B Series is period correct and I just love B Series VTEC crossover!
@@scottmog sir your b20 some issues can you explain
What issues your b series. because I am also thinking built B series.So that I can know what was the problem in your B series too (plz explain it)
@@DangerPooleMotorsI agree 🤙
Cannot wait to see this progress, great video
Thanks very much! I'm really excited about the project
Professionally explained clear and concise, love a b-series. Regretting selling my EM1. 😅
Thanks very much! What's an EM1?
@DangerPooleMotors It's the EK coupe civic SI US model, but in Europe it was called the VTI. Came with a B16a2, so much fun, should of kept it.
@@willludwig1356 Ah yes. A super cool car. I hope you can buy another one day.
Keen to follow this build, it’s going to scream! I have a stock b16a motor and paired it with a full exhaust from fujitsubo and a Gruppe M ram intake, it sounds so bloody good and so much fun to drive.
@@DanozDirectional I bet that sounds ace! This won't be revving as high as a B16 but will still sound fire I think. The exhaust is one thing I haven't decided on yet. As the head is ported, ideally I want a custom port matched manifold. Thanks for the comment dude, and welcome to the channel ✊️
Love this video format, awesome work!
@@vtecnerd hey man! Thanks very much, means a lot to get nice comments like this ✊️
Nice build !! Our builds are similar mine was more on a budget here are the specs for mine B20B bottom end stock rods with arp bolt kit Nippon Racing P30 84.5mm pistons New Oem Type R/GSR oil pump King Racing main & rod bearings Ported GSR Head with Ferrea 5000 series valves SuperTech 85lbs springs with BC steel retainers Skunk2 LMA’s Blox Type B cams with Skunk 2 Pro series cam gears topped off with Ultra Street Intake manifold decapped LS injectors and a PLM Big Tube 4-1 megaphone header 2.5” exhaust tuned on E85 S300
Also I went with a Cometic .030” thickness B20/Vtec head gasket
Thanks man! Fair play, that sounds like a sick build!
I have the RM cams also good choice
@@wolfpac550 you're the first person I've met with them! Do you have the 22 or 24XX? And can you tell me anything about what they're like?
Subbed mate 👍
Very nice mate. Just noticed your inlet manifold is for a c2 motor with the round water whole and your head on the a1 has the square whole. I found that out the hard way myself with my car. Look forward to seeing more of the build. Good luck 👍
No way! Thanks for telling me bud! And thanks for subscribing ✊
Good luck with the project, the car looks great!
Thanks mate! Subbed to you also, always good to find more honda knowledge ✊ Out of curiosity did the algorythm push it to you or did you find me in search?
@@DangerPooleMotors I saw your comment on Facebook. Cheers
@twin2civicgaraget2cg75 ah of course. Nice one.
i am following you from this point on.
Thanks very much!
I’m curious nippon sales a P30 style piston I was reading online it said to put your car around 13:1 compression with b20b block and b16 head since it’s domed piston
@frivera735 hey bud. I'm not aware of that particular piston but sure, there are a lot of choices out there.
Yes nippon racing sells p30 style pistons. You can get press or floating. I believe for 700 u can get scat rods an p30 full floating pistons
Very good clear voice interesting Subscribed
Thanks for the nice comment bud. And welcome to the channel!
Have fun building this monster =D
Thanks! Never happier than when I'm playing with my cars haha
While im sure there's no harm fitting it, I'm lead to believe the block guards dont do too much to help the B20s from cracking.
Have a look at how the oem bore liners are all one piece, compared to the individual units in B16s and 18s.
Either way, following along for inspiration for when my old clapped out B20V needs some love.
That's a very good point! I'll do some research on that and decide whether or not it's necessary. Thanks very much!
If you use e85 and 1000cc injectors and 340lph fuel pump help to reduce detonation and good base map
I built a high comp b20b8 yes a b20b8 it was an Australian version it has stock full iron sleeves designed like a b18, I did a pro style devcon block came out mint fully built non vtec boosted held 18 psi no sweat.. b series is a great motor…
18 psi! Wow, that's some boost. Must have run over 500hp?
Very nice. Subscribed!
Thank you!
Awesome build
If I don't mess it up it'll be awesome haha. Thanks for the comment bud.
@DangerPooleMotors we have faith in you and it does go wrong do it again that's how we learn that's how we grow
@@cjeverydaylife Absolutely right. You can't fail at something you don't give up on!
Nice one bro 👍 🔥💪🚀🚘⛽️🐐💯
@@frias2287 Thanks bro! Just checked out your channel, cool stuff! Subbed ✊️
@DangerPooleMotors You're welcome my brother, that's what we're here for, to support each other 🤝 💯
Oh 4.92 wow update us on how that goes, 4.78 possibly and that's as high for daily, dig that flywheel I went with 8 pounde flywheel and was mistake switched back to stock as 8 pound on 1-2 shift pulled rpms down alot with aggressive clutch 12-14 pound is magic number I'm thinking but steel or chromeoly aluminum isn't where it's at least from what I experienced
@4077661466jp hey man, thanks for the comment, this is great info! I know that the flywheel being too light can cause problems as you describe but I never bothered to weigh it, and I should have. I want to know what weight it is now, but it's bolted up to the crank... There will be detailed updates on the channel 👍
What cams are those?
Hey bud. M22XX from Rocket Motorsport ✊
@@DangerPooleMotors😮😮😮 gunna have to look those up
What pistons are you intending on using to acheive 12.4:1? And what octane fuel?
Hey bud. These are 84.5mm Wiseco pistons. And I'll be mapping to Shell V Power 99 RON fuel ✊
No power steering 🤕
@@obtrunco the manual rack is quicker, less turns lock to lock. I've had an EF before without power steering, it's fine.