Jah know star...there are a lot of builders but listen to Jay at real street and Roni from Cali Speed lab dem 2 genius is a joy to listen. These guys doesn't hide the knowledge they spread with pleasure. Big up yourself Jay....Real Genna.🇯🇲
This video has to spread out more!!! From small details like on the ocd part marking the piston tops where the ring gaps are To making sure no assembly lube on the bore and yes lubricated but no thick stuff! Prolly unrelated to Jay but RealStreet is where I order 90% of my engine parts need always and since I was introduced to RealST since Honda-Tech days ftw!!!!
cant top praising this Jay!! just got off the phone with a potential client for a build... his new build lasted 1 month before it crapped out I showed them this vid and owner said maybe max 10% attention to detail of this done yep! thats why il never get tired of referencing this video to future clients man! :)
@@nathandornn7891 oh wow brother thank you wow! In all honesty almost daily or so I do check Jay here a video or two then it gets me fired up to start the day’s work… sometimes even try to sound like Jay here at work hahaha but that’s not to mock just to show Jay that his stuff here helps a lot not just on info but also the positive drive
@@SRDmotorsports no problem currently trying to put together my high comp lsv nitrous block I do have some questions thiugh could I email you or Dm you on anything lmk
Perfection at it's finest, can't express how much I truly enjoy these videos. Keep up the great work Jay Meagher, continue to share the exquisite knowledge.
About to use this video to rebuild my b20 🤘🏼🏁 Thanks for the great info and details 🏁 The Bearing difference trick to get more oil That would be great cause these things starve Appreciate the video
Using this guide to help me rebuild the bottom end of my VW/Audi EA888 engine as they are similar and you are great. Love that you didn’t time elapse like the other channels.
Love watching this again and the more I watch the more minute details are shown and it’s def worth spreading out to more viewers! Here they often say when it “creeks” the threads it’s cuz new or newly cleaned and I shake my head, cuz as you mentioned it’s “dry”threads that will tend to give you off readings on torque Amen to this!
Awesome video !! I know that it doesn’t really matter on the bearing tang direction on a inline 4 but call me superstitious lol I always face them to the exhaust side since that’s factory on the B series
The 18:30 minute explanation about mixing bearings is kind of confusing. I thought the thinner bearing goes in the rod cap and the thicker one in the top of the rod. The mains are the other way around, thinner bearing in the cap and the thicker in the engine main. You have a video that explains it but, in this video, it seems is the other way around. Am I missing something here?
What happened to part 2 ? And maybe part 3 running in the car. Thanks for this video, definitely came in handy with my f20b build I'm doing for boost. Part 2 would be nice. Definitely best video on TH-cam so thank you .
When you installed the rod bearings did you put assembly lube on both sides of the bearings? Also were you using assembly lube to wipe on the rings? Does the b20 use thrust bearings?
Did you check the bearing clearance on the mains and the rods before assembly?the reason I asked is that I had my Chevy 1.8l bored from stock. All original bearings are in excellent condition including the crank. Do I need to plastigage before assembly? Engine was ran in stressful conditions for 263,000 miles (Amazon deliveries) but was maintained well. No sludge or carbon buildup.
Thanks for your engine content. Helped quite a bit with my own engine build. Though my pistons used spiral locks and were a bit more of a pain to install. My engine fired up and ran fine. An all-motor 6g72.
My daughter and I are researching an engine rebuild for her 2000 CRV, She's not a racer girl but does have to drive the pass from Reno to Sacramento regularly. She needs more power! Is there an advantage to purchasing a B20Z block vs. a B20B also, choosing a P75 head vs. the P8R head for its larger valves? Loving this video!
Hello I have a couple questions. First how did you get the block so fresh what process did you guys use? Also what is the break in process for a new built bottom end? Thank you for any feedback!
Will you be venting the crank case pressure on your B20. I've read that the block needs the crank case pressure released if not it won't last long. I'd love to get your opinion on that considering you'll be doing a b20vtec.
Question from a beginner, should the screws always be lubricated before tightening according to manual torque values, for example when I assemble the cylinder head or valve cover or anything requiring specific torque? There is no reference in the manual regarding this aspect. Thanks
I’ve never heard of using two different bearing sizes for each side of the rod journal, does that not create uneven wear? I’d be worried you’re starting off destined for rod knock
Hello, yes the blocks are either bead blasted or vapor honed. The vapor honing is nice, it doesn't dull out the aluminum. Just be careful either way to clean everything very well. The blasting media will quickly destroy a new build. Thanks
Jay, can you go into detail on the flaw of the b20 sleeve design? Curious why you guys bothered building one? Or was it just for the sake of assembling an engine for a video?
Why do you put lube under the bearings between the bearing and the cap? Also why lube on the mating faces of the caps? Was always taught to never do this.
What kinda oil viscosity is now needed since both the mains and rod bearings have more clearance then originally? 5/30-10/30 was recommended oil originally
I think the idea behind the ATF is that it’s thin enough to displace and not affect clearances, while also protecting the shell when you install it. It possibly lets it settle into the bore better too but i’m just guessing.
Ultimately you do not want metal against metal. The argument against putting any form of lube on the back side of the bearing is that it is more likely to spin a bearing. The problem with that argument is that the bearing has a tang that locates it on the journals and holds it in place.
when you’re putting the main shells in the caps - what is the red lubricant you are using? as i noticed a different assembly lube on the rotating equipment but you used a red lubricant instead of fitting the shells in dry, whats the reason for that?
My son has a 2001 Prelude Base with the h22 in it. What would be some good volt on for this motor. Is isnt prepared for the turbo yet. He wants to completely tear it down and replace everything with performance parts. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I enjoyed watching this video , it was really informative. My boy is 20, I am 53. I still cruise a Honda. Just a newer 2021 Civic. Thanks for the Info
It depends on your power goals. The Honda H22 block can handle a moderate amount of boost on stock sleeves, typically up to 300-400 horsepower. However, if you're planning to run higher boost levels and push for more power, sleeving the block is recommended to prevent cracking and ensure long-term reliability. If you're aiming for significant horsepower gains, sleeving the H22 block can provide added strength and durability under higher stress.
Jay, is there a reason you decided to install the rod tangs on the intake side? I think you said it really didn't matter which side it went since modern vehicles don't have tangs to begin with. Also if you were to turbo this b20, wouldn't the poor sleeve design limit you as to how far you can push things? I've had a b20v setup prior and I ended up cracking all 4 sleeves. Is there a hp number that is safe or possibly having a conservative tune might help. Thank you for the awesome content as always. 👍
91 and like 5psi and a block guard with large channels for cooling should last forever. All the b20 I have seen break due to pre detinaton, I have also alot of people complaining about it blowing up and you look at there socials and there constantly on the red line.
Damn RealSt about to show US how A RealSt B20V all motors should be done on the street.. i like this.. i got a b20 short block sitting.. mind as well or some stuff to rebuild it with.. Boost wise hehehe
Hello, how long has this engine lasted? Is it still running? I'm thinking of a similar setup but all I heard of b20 is the sleeves are weak, weak, weak, weak. Anything will help. Thanks!
I am rebuilding b18c4 engine end when I put only 2 of the rods and tighten them at the crank only rotates at bottom dead center center. Impossible to rotate 90 degrees. When I put flywheel and use it to rotate it rotates but a little tighten. Is this normal
Quick question, how do you feel about using a girdle on the B20v? I have one that came on the engine, it was from a GSR. The engine wasn't assembled correctly so i had to do a complete tear down and etc. Debating on whether or not to use the girdle. Not planning on boosting or revving past 8,000. Would you use one?
I had a thought that putting oil on the threads would make it possibly come looser over time or not be as effective as keeping things together....why am i wrong? Haha love the videos
Hey Jay I have a 2006 Scion TC that I’m currently overhauling due to headlift after boost, I bought oem thrust washers but they are too thick and don’t fit, I already checked and compared another new set and they still don’t fit. I also tried aftermarket which were closer to fitting but still nothing, Everything is oem so it should fit with no issues, only thing aftermarket I got were the arp head studs. My only resolution I can think of is sanding down the thrust washers until they fit and run it like that. What would you do In this situation?
I could just put a seat in the corner of that engine room and just watch Jay build engines all day. Absolute wizard. 😎👍
Ahh yep 👍🏾
I’d be sitting right next to you lol
Eerily similar to porn tho
@@robhernandez7322 lol
@@robhernandez7322 .... no
I love this! Everyone is building 1000 hp engines in a 5 minute video. Real St build an everyday engine whilst showing the whole process!
Wish I had this video 10 years ago. A+
Never to late to build another B20 Frankenstein or your first B20.
I can't describe how much I enjoy these videos. They're perfection
I’m so happy Jay is doing Honda’s !! Dude !!!
Jah know star...there are a lot of builders but listen to Jay at real street and Roni from Cali Speed lab dem 2 genius is a joy to listen. These guys doesn't hide the knowledge they spread with pleasure. Big up yourself Jay....Real Genna.🇯🇲
Real talk G!
This video has to spread out more!!! From small details like on the ocd part marking the piston tops where the ring gaps are
To making sure no assembly lube on the bore and yes lubricated but no thick stuff!
Prolly unrelated to Jay but RealStreet is where I order 90% of my engine parts need always and since I was introduced to RealST since Honda-Tech days ftw!!!!
cant top praising this Jay!! just got off the phone with a potential client for a build... his new build lasted 1 month before it crapped out
I showed them this vid and owner said maybe max 10% attention to detail of this done yep! thats why
il never get tired of referencing this video to future clients man! :)
If your building Honda check this guys channel out
@@nathandornn7891 oh wow brother thank you wow! In all honesty almost daily or so I do check Jay here a video or two then it gets me fired up to start the day’s work… sometimes even try to sound like Jay here at work hahaha but that’s not to mock just to show Jay that his stuff here helps a lot not just on info but also the positive drive
@@SRDmotorsports no problem currently trying to put together my high comp lsv nitrous block I do have some questions thiugh could I email you or Dm you on anything lmk
@@nathandornn7891 oh def yeah u could comment on any video it helps hahaha kidding
U can dm the shop page it’s in the description no problem brother
Man! The more I watch this over and over… I continuously get some good tidbits well done Jay Well done!
Request for part 2 assembly video :D Interesting to see 200whp frankenstein being built up.
Same pistons, in my built D series replacing one as we speak cause of A failed FIC injector. Good stuff RealStreet love you guys video's.
Zen like state of mind. Excellent work as always
Perfection at it's finest, can't express how much I truly enjoy these videos. Keep up the great work Jay Meagher, continue to share the exquisite knowledge.
Fantastic Video, Very Informal and Proper, Attention to Detail and Communication to the viewer is very reassuring.
Jeff at CNC Werx built my entire B18b bottom end for boost using H beam rids. Coated race bearings and Traum Turbo pistons. We settled on 10:8-1 cr.
About to use this video to rebuild my b20 🤘🏼🏁
Thanks for the great info and details
🏁
The Bearing difference trick to get more oil
That would be great cause these things starve
Appreciate the video
Using this guide to help me rebuild the bottom end of my VW/Audi EA888 engine as they are similar and you are great. Love that you didn’t time elapse like the other channels.
would love for this build to keep going all the way to engine break in
Love watching this again and the more I watch the more minute details are shown and it’s def worth spreading out to more viewers!
Here they often say when it “creeks” the threads it’s cuz new or newly cleaned and I shake my head, cuz as you mentioned it’s “dry”threads that will tend to give you off readings on torque
Amen to this!
B series love!🤘🏿
This is how schools should teach 👍👍👍
I hope Jay is enjoying some VTEC right now.
You guys and Papadakis Racing. Top notch engine content!!!
That's badass.. I was just watching the same exact video from Jim's automotive TH-cam today. That channel is 👌
That’s how I assembled my rod bearings too. Thinner bearing top and standard on cap
Awesome video !! I know that it doesn’t really matter on the bearing tang direction on a inline 4 but call me superstitious lol I always face them to the exhaust side since that’s factory on the B series
Jay is a wizard. Tell me I’m wrong. Love the information you give Jay!
Just love seeing Jay work on Honda’s!
Could you explain the red oil you are using and why you are putting it BEHIND the bearings?
The 18:30 minute explanation about mixing bearings is kind of confusing. I thought the thinner bearing goes in the rod cap and the thicker one in the top of the rod. The mains are the other way around, thinner bearing in the cap and the thicker in the engine main. You have a video that explains it but, in this video, it seems is the other way around. Am I missing something here?
Do we need to measure the clearance using clay and feeler gauge? It would be so much easier and faster if we didn't.
What happened to part 2 ? And maybe part 3 running in the car. Thanks for this video, definitely came in handy with my f20b build I'm doing for boost. Part 2 would be nice. Definitely best video on TH-cam so thank you .
Jay please give us more on this build. Very good content
I love the experience talking. Awesome video, perfectly described
When you installed the rod bearings did you put assembly lube on both sides of the bearings? Also were you using assembly lube to wipe on the rings? Does the b20 use thrust bearings?
There's a differences... Mr. Jay's not just talking but walking At _TheSameDamTime_ Real Street 💨
Did you check the bearing clearance on the mains and the rods before assembly?the reason I asked is that I had my Chevy 1.8l bored from stock. All original bearings are in excellent condition including the crank. Do I need to plastigage before assembly? Engine was ran in stressful conditions for 263,000 miles (Amazon deliveries) but was maintained well. No sludge or carbon buildup.
Thanks for your engine content. Helped quite a bit with my own engine build. Though my pistons used spiral locks and were a bit more of a pain to install. My engine fired up and ran fine. An all-motor 6g72.
you either have a caravan or a GTO 😝
@@psiturbo gto lol
@@psiturbo im like yea its not like i put the build as the channel name or anything. lmao.
My daughter and I are researching an engine rebuild for her 2000 CRV, She's not a racer girl but does have to drive the pass from Reno to Sacramento regularly. She needs more power!
Is there an advantage to purchasing a B20Z block vs. a B20B also, choosing a P75 head vs. the P8R head for its larger valves? Loving this video!
Did you put lube under the bearing at 1:51? If so why?
Currently rebuilding my b20b with scat rods, 84.5mm ycp hc pistons really looking forward towards my build next week
How did it go
apart from learning from the best and very informative videos jay always does i watch his videos because of his great choice of nice cruise music haha
Hello I have a couple questions. First how did you get the block so fresh what process did you guys use? Also what is the break in process for a new built bottom end? Thank you for any feedback!
Most likely the engine went to a machine shop and got cleaned
Will you be venting the crank case pressure on your B20. I've read that the block needs the crank case pressure released if not it won't last long. I'd love to get your opinion on that considering you'll be doing a b20vtec.
I can literally watch this and install all at the same time lol literally a video to teach on how to install.
Thanks Jay and RealSt for the excellent video. It's really boosted my confidence in assembly my first engine.
Question from a beginner, should the screws always be lubricated before tightening according to manual torque values, for example when I assemble the cylinder head or valve cover or anything requiring specific torque? There is no reference in the manual regarding this aspect. Thanks
Great video Jay
thank you jay for sharing your Knowledge, hopefully to get to build my first engine
Finally been waitin for some Honda stuff from Jay.....Looks like ge would much rather be workin on 2JZs lol
Was this engine build completed? Would love to see the final product tuned and running.
Feels like therapy 😊
I’ve never heard of using two different bearing sizes for each side of the rod journal, does that not create uneven wear? I’d be worried you’re starting off destined for rod knock
I think Papadakis does the same on same race applications.
The bearing isn't round anyway, it's a good way to get the clearances you want with nothing more than an extra set of inexpensive bearings
Do you guys bead blast the engine blocks? They're always so clean. If so, can you show or elaborate on the process used? Thanks again.
Hello, yes the blocks are either bead blasted or vapor honed. The vapor honing is nice, it doesn't dull out the aluminum. Just be careful either way to clean everything very well. The blasting media will quickly destroy a new build. Thanks
Jay, can you go into detail on the flaw of the b20 sleeve design? Curious why you guys bothered building one? Or was it just for the sake of assembling an engine for a video?
Why do you put lube under the bearings between the bearing and the cap? Also why lube on the mating faces of the caps? Was always taught to never do this.
Why do you put oil in between the back of the bearing and also on the main bearing cap surface mount to block thanks 😊
Is there a reason why a stretch gauge wasn't used on the rod bolts?
5:30 did anyone else laugh at how well the torque wrench beep matched the music? 😆
What is the difference in assembly lubes used on the crank bearings and caps. One is red and the other is blue. Is there a purpose for this?
I want to ask , which type of spark plugs do we use in this type of engine over there ?
This is awesome Jay! Hopefully I’ll send you my stroker vq37 with VQ35HR heads for you to work on soon and cover!
What kinda oil viscosity is now needed since both the mains and rod bearings have more clearance then originally?
5/30-10/30 was recommended oil originally
Was there lube under the main bearing on the caps? I always thought you weren't supposed to use any oil on the back side of the bearing.
He has an entire video explaining this. He uses a light oil like ATF
@@that_texas_local Ok, would be nice if they didn't just gloss over that, but I guess it would just cause a debate if they went into detail about it.
@@_Bonez12 th-cam.com/video/yAt-fkTntjE/w-d-xo.html
I think the idea behind the ATF is that it’s thin enough to displace and not affect clearances, while also protecting the shell when you install it. It possibly lets it settle into the bore better too but i’m just guessing.
Ultimately you do not want metal against metal. The argument against putting any form of lube on the back side of the bearing is that it is more likely to spin a bearing. The problem with that argument is that the bearing has a tang that locates it on the journals and holds it in place.
We need a dyno video of thiss settuo thank you 💯💯🙌🏾🔥🔥🔥
When are we getting a part 2? Need to c some dyno numbers
when you’re putting the main shells in the caps - what is the red lubricant you are using?
as i noticed a different assembly lube on the rotating equipment but you used a red lubricant instead of fitting the shells in dry, whats the reason for that?
Is there a video of the b16 head getting installed?
Vtec for life
My son has a 2001 Prelude Base with the h22 in it. What would be some good volt on for this motor. Is isnt prepared for the turbo yet. He wants to completely tear it down and replace everything with performance parts. Any info would be greatly appreciated. I enjoyed watching this video , it was really informative. My boy is 20, I am 53. I still cruise a Honda. Just a newer 2021 Civic. Thanks for the Info
It depends on your power goals. The Honda H22 block can handle a moderate amount of boost on stock sleeves, typically up to 300-400 horsepower. However, if you're planning to run higher boost levels and push for more power, sleeving the block is recommended to prevent cracking and ensure long-term reliability.
If you're aiming for significant horsepower gains, sleeving the H22 block can provide added strength and durability under higher stress.
Jay, is there a reason you decided to install the rod tangs on the intake side? I think you said it really didn't matter which side it went since modern vehicles don't have tangs to begin with. Also if you were to turbo this b20, wouldn't the poor sleeve design limit you as to how far you can push things? I've had a b20v setup prior and I ended up cracking all 4 sleeves. Is there a hp number that is safe or possibly having a conservative tune might help. Thank you for the awesome content as always. 👍
91 and like 5psi and a block guard with large channels for cooling should last forever. All the b20 I have seen break due to pre detinaton, I have also alot of people complaining about it blowing up and you look at there socials and there constantly on the red line.
JAY!
LET'S GO...🏁
Why would you want the rod caps to rock? How can they rock when torqued down like that?
Dream of mines to bring my integra to you guys to build my engine from top to bottom 💪🔥❗
God bless this man 🤙🏻
assuming you orientate the wrist pin clips to face up or down so they have no chance of flexing with piston speed?
Is there a video on how to prep your block to sand/bead blast? I assume it’s a lot of tape and plugs 😅
Just wondering cause that’s super clean and pretty
can wait to see the next video
Damn RealSt about to show US how A RealSt B20V all motors should be done on the street.. i like this.. i got a b20 short block sitting.. mind as well or some stuff to rebuild it with.. Boost wise hehehe
Makes it look so easy
hello jay, i'm french and i follow your youtube channel.
i have a question, is a blockguard useful on b20 engine block in n/a configuration?
THANK YOU
What is your thinking on assembling engines with or without wearing gloves? Is it just preference?
how do you know the torque spec?
Thanks for the content bro..
With this setup what the hp you would look for?
I know it's a long shot, but can you do one of these but for a 3rzfe (turbo) build.
Why lite oil around the dowels thanks😊
Nice video sir! By the way, can you also do a video on Assembling a 2JZ-GTE from top to bottom?
Hello, how long has this engine lasted? Is it still running? I'm thinking of a similar setup but all I heard of b20 is the sleeves are weak, weak, weak, weak. Anything will help. Thanks!
Why not use ARP lube on the factory hardware?
I just brought a 95 Honda Civic. What will be a good series engine to put in it?
I am rebuilding b18c4 engine end when I put only 2 of the rods and tighten them at the crank only rotates at bottom dead center center. Impossible to rotate 90 degrees. When I put flywheel and use it to rotate it rotates but a little tighten. Is this normal
I am
Going to build a B20Z2 for 2001 CR-V AWD could you recommend a parts list and supplier for the parts
Thank you
Quick question, how do you feel about using a girdle on the B20v? I have one that came on the engine, it was from a GSR. The engine wasn't assembled correctly so i had to do a complete tear down and etc. Debating on whether or not to use the girdle. Not planning on boosting or revving past 8,000. Would you use one?
What model torque wrench are you using?
How do you determine what main bearings to buy and use
I had a thought that putting oil on the threads would make it possibly come looser over time or not be as effective as keeping things together....why am i wrong? Haha love the videos
So wat was the clearance for the main an rod bearings I did this same thing with the std king bearings an my clearance was to tight
This kinda of content 👌 Bob Ross of engines 😆
that calming voice
Hey Jay I have a 2006 Scion TC that I’m currently overhauling due to headlift after boost, I bought oem thrust washers but they are too thick and don’t fit, I already checked and compared another new set and they still don’t fit. I also tried aftermarket which were closer to fitting but still nothing, Everything is oem so it should fit with no issues, only thing aftermarket I got were the arp head studs. My only resolution I can think of is sanding down the thrust washers until they fit and run it like that. What would you do In this situation?
Anything to say about sleeving a b20 block for turbo applications? Would a b18 be preferred in this case?