I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this video and the information man! I have a 1995 Camry 2.2 (A140E) trans and during the 2nd half of an 18hr drive it felt like it “ let go” of the gear when I was doing about 70-75 mph. When I say let go, the RPM’s were holding steady at 2500 @70 and all of a sudden with no extra pressure applied to the gas, it went up to 27-2800. Not a huge jump, but the O/D light began to flash at the same time. The ECM was changed about a month prior because it was fried, it wasn’t sending a pulse to the distributor coil (fed emissions, internal coil) The problem the trans is having now is that USUALLY when you accelerate lightly at 45-55, it will downshift once and the tach will be at 1800-2000 rpm, well it seems to be skipping that now. Also when braking for traffic or a complete stop, going from 40-20mph it kinda feels like it stumbles. All the while the O/D light is flashing. It looks like the rpm’s are up about 4-500 while this is all happening and I’m wondering if it’s the ECM again or something else. This is my 3rd Camry with the same drivetrain setup and I’ve never had this issue. I also checked the TPS and the pigtail and that all looks good. I just don’t wanna drive it too much in the state it’s in, exhibiting the behavior it’s displaying because I can’t afford to get another car. But I really have never dealt with this before. Any info would be helpful! I don’t have an OBD2 port. But I do have the circular OBD1 under the dash in the footwell. I also don’t have ABS as I saw one comment stated it was for ABS readings which now I’m really curious about
Thanks a lot man... Have you tried crossing the two pins and getting an OBD 1 code? Very well could be your computer. Could be a weak ground signal, could be dirty or low fluid. Could be a solenoid, could be the plug to the Shift Position Sensor. It could have a loose, faulty connection, or even moisture. Definitely sounds electrical because your trans. sounds like it's going into a "limp mode". Sounds like you're running around in 2nd gear. The first thing I do is test my manual shift. Find out if you can get it to take off in first gear and then manually shift 2nd, 3rd/D. Find out if it acts different when in drive taking off from a dead stop. If it's trying to take off in 3rd or 2nd gear the trans is in protect mode. If the O/D light is flashing, chances are you don't have Overdrive at all for the interstate. You could also try clearing the Check Engine light by disconnecting the battery. You could have a stuck solenoid, wiring problems, but I'd keep checking those plugs and try to recall if you ran through any bad weather prior to this or had any service work done within a day or so from this problem happening. I'll do my best to help guide you through. In the meantime, check the internet for OBD 1 pin crossing to get whatever code was stored. Let me know if it comes back as the famous "shift solenoid A or B."
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 I definitely will. I tried to reset the ECM by doing the following: Disconnect the battery and left the lights on, left the key in ACC mode. Car drive fine after and for about 2hrs consecutively. Shut it off to go to the store and returned less than 5 minutes later. Once I started it and got into gear it revved way high in shifting from gear 1-2. Then the od light began flashing again and the fun started. Got to a light, and after I took off it shifted fine again but the od light doesn't stop unless the car is shut off. Car drove thru a bad storm in Pennsylvania making my way down to Florida. It's definitely weird and I don't wanna give this thing up yet. I really feel like there's hope because it does drive good when it's behaving (after reset) The sensor is gonna get looked at today. I just find it so weird that it can shift perfectly and then the minute it's turned off and back on again it's acting substantially worse. The fluid was full and okay for 8 months following this, (I check all fluids very frequently) I added 1/2 a bottle of Lucas in it just so it would help "cushion" things because it was shifting so hard. It helped with shift transitions but I don't hope for it to do more
@@devinprasad3449 It's definitely an electrical problem... I'd put my money on a loose, faulty connection, an ECM malfunction, a loose ground engine to chassis (a.k.a a weak ground signal). Mine was close to doing the exact same things, mine was sporatic. But it usually started with the ignition shut off and back on. My problem was in the wire loom. There were several signal wires in the transmission wiring harness that ran on top of the transmission that branches off to your various sensors from the speed sensor, to the transmission range sensor. What caused the problem was time and the constant flexing of the engine mounts. It's the same thing that happens in the driver side door jamb after the doors open and close a couple thousand times. After you have your sensors checked see if you can get it to not act up, then raise the hood with it running and shake the harness around. See if you can get it to go into O/D flash. Keep me posted man... I'm pretty sure you'll figure it out if you stay at it. You definitely sound intelligent enough.
The transmission has its own version of limp mode. More or less, gets stuck in 2nd gear. But yes.... The solenoid is an electronic component. If it fails, it would throw the computer into a protection mode. It's worth noting that half the time, these problems come from faulty wiring or bad connections, especially from the plugs located on the transmission under the battery. The shift position sensor, or whatever people want to call it. Always check the connections on that before you pull the transmission apart.
Pls help me out, my 2.2 gear is not respond fast you have to leave for 20 to 30minutes before you engage it in D or R . Is the is cold and you engage it will work you have to leave the engine to run for long time. Pls what could be the cause ?
I've been tracing everything back to the ECM on mine, throwing codes for Trans Solenoids A and E on top of a P1600 (ECM battery short), will have to check out the wiring later
96 Camry 2.2L. 1st - 2nd shifts lazy on D (almost like it's slipping) but shifts strong and smooth when on 2. Any potential solutions? Had the trans filter changed and did 3 drain and fills 4k miles ago prior to this. (Used STP Dex 3)
Check for a dirty valve body/fluid, and/or check balls misplaced or missing. But electrical connections always come first. Especially your range sensor.
Wow- trying to distill the fix is rough! I appreciate your time and overview….but -did cleaning up the connections fix the shifting? I have the same situation/ manual shifting thru L,D2-D works and is necessary but maybe it’s that square connector….Thanks I’ll investigate
I bought a 95 Camry not long ago, I replaced the head gasket + engine seals, new radiator, new spark plugs, new oil and filter, new coolant temp sensor, and whilst driving after a week the engine light and over drive light has come on and both are constantly flashing, car drives completely great and has no issues when shifting or idling, but can not remove these flashing lights… I’ve used a scan tool and it shows no codes via the engine and/or the transmission… any thoughts?
No mechanical problems? If no, find the short or loose connection. Reset the PCM/ECM. Check all of the trans. plug connections for brittle or broken wires. This usually happens around flex points, portions of the wiring harness that flex when the engine torques forward or backwards.
Success! It took awhile because I was fighting with Toyota NA about their stoopid Upper Valve Body Gasket set. My VIN states the gasket is the same as the 97-00 A541E. Unfortunately, the cut outs did not match. I found over 6 areas where it was significantly different. Went to a junk yard to verify and yeap, my transmission came from a '94 Camry XLE, completely different gasket. Toyota does not sell the proper gasket, or shall I say the old one. I rolled the dice and to my surprise the new superceded gasket worked. Also replaced SLN, prior to install I checked OHMs and 12V test with a vacuum on it. My old one was not holding a vacuum. While in there I also swapped the old/tired #1 & #2 solenoids. They too tested tired but ohmed out OK. Also changed the little 1/2" donut gasket, bloody Toyota called is "BRAKE APPLY" dealer tagged it as Governor Apply, maybe a Japanese translation issue? She drives like a new car, shifts in to drive and reverse without delay, smooth and quiet. Bonus more power, did not expect that. For others, you must insure the fluid level is at proper levels or it will not go into gear. Ask me how I know :-) Again thank you so much to you fine Gentlemen and Timely Stuff. Life savers all of you. God Bless you All! So I need to chat about that bloody, throttle cable install: I purchased four 100MM x 1.0Pitch M6 bolts from ACE. I used these as guides and holder so I could get that silly cable on without tearing up the new gasket. I could have used a helper but did not trust helper not to damage the gaskets.
Congratulations man. Mine's still going strong, hit 132 passing a car full of girls that were in a newer Nissan Maxima. It's good to see people taking on these jobs themselves instead of being intimidated by the almighty automatic trans. Thank you and God Bless you and everybody out there with the courage to open these cans of worms. Those of us who take these challenges in our own hands are the true pioneers with something to be proud of in the true 1 percent. Not just the ol' "It broke, I gotta depend on someone else." This is true freedom, not just an auto repair. Thumbs up to you Jim Chang.
@@mikehopkins7942 Sorry brother, I went to the dealer and pointed to the items needed on their computer. they are the two thin "mylar" paper like gaskets, the metal shim/plate can be re-used, If I can find the receipt, I will post here
2 things... The wiring harnesses to the transmission have loose, weak connections, or moisture in the plugs. The other thing is, a dirty filter and dirty transmission fluid, causing a solenoid to hang.
@@kendrickwashington4119 your wiring should be the same as explained at the end of this video. Seems common for the wires to get brittle after 200k, from all the heat and vibration in the engine bay.
Did you find which wires were frayed, and did you replace them? What was the procedure you used to narrow down the electrical to that one-foot area? I have 95 with exactly the same issues--replaced solenoids but still have to manually shift. I can do most things if I have a process to follow--so if you can help with how you narrowed the harness area, that would be great. You did so many things--are you certain this is the issue, or do you think changing the PCM may have fixed it. I reset the PCM, but still had the codes--they only go away if I disconnect the battery--then they come back on after running the car for awhile. Hey, thank you so much. Your videos are easy to follow.
It's most likely the harness under the battery tray. Sometimes the selector switch plug gets moisture in it. Engines with high miles, the wires fray inside the jacket as they make their way over the top of the transmission. I found several wires shorting together after I removed the insulation and the tape, wire loom. I butt connected several connections back together and taped them apart separate. I still have the original PCM and I switched them since that time and the problem never came back. Those specific wires run through that switch that directly affect solenoid A and B through power interruption. Hope this helps, thanks.
So I have a 1992 toyota camry with the 2.2 4 cylinder automatic the problem I have is shifting into drive the light wont engage into drive light up on cluster panel will shift up to third and the floor shifter won't lock in drive so replaced the floor shift assembly thinking that was the problem but still doing the same thing I have no problem shifting into 1st and 2nd so I'm thinking it something electrical
Shift Selector Range Sensor, or something or another. Check that plug and the range selector, it's on the transmission connected to the selector shaft. Most Toyota tranny problems electrical in nature surround that device. The contacts in it might not be receiving a drive signal. However, you do have individual light bulbs that show D and OD. I'm not saying that's your problem, I'm just making you aware that your instrument cluster has a bulb for each selection on the dash, and some in the console. But if it's not shifting into D or OD and you can feel it, check that assembly on the transmission. The battery, road grime, and water usually cause problems over time with this plug and range selector sensor. People call it all different names.
Update: Well finally, bloody transmission thru the dreaded code P0770, shift lock up is toast, I can actually hear rattling when car is on coming from the transmission. Will update after I swap out the SL Solenoid. Again thanks fellas!
Thanks for the video!! Very informative. Im currently try to diagnose similar issues with my 1995 lexus es300. Would you assume that the lexus has these similar issues that you mention due to it being basically a fancy camry? Id like to chat with you regarding the issues im having with my lexus. To see if you have any ideas or can point me in the right direction. Thank you in advance.
Thank you both for posting this actual Follow Up video much appreciated. I wish more tubers did this. If I may share my issue: No CEL ( strange ), intermittently, from Park to Drive it takes about 3-4 seconds to engage. Reverse, no issue. I did as you suggested with a little mod. I checked three, the SL "E", 1 & 2 solenoids on top of the transmission at the connector, harness from the ECM and the ECM itself. All Solenoids measured within Tolerance 13.8 Ohms Harness had good continuity ECM failed at SL pin reading 6.9K Ohms, should be between 8-100K Ohms per TSM For extra measure, I also check the NC2+ & NC2- at ECM, also failed, resistance was way over 530-680 Ohms per TSM I hope I have come to the correct conclusion that the ECM is dying, I write dying because, while on the road she pulls great and shifts great ( Not like your car 136MPH :-). I know you replaced an ECM from an LE to your XLE without issues. I am wondering how critical is it to match all 10 digits or do you think first 5 digits 89661-XXXXX is all that matters? Mine is an 89661-0W010 a 1996 ECM for v6's ( my car is a ES300 with a transplanted A541E ) Thank you for taking the time to read this long post, Jim
Jim, the PCM/ECM is definitely the suspect. Just for good measure, I'd check for grounding issues. But it sounds like you may have already gotten past that. If your ES300 already came with the A541E (Which it should have being from '96), you shouldn't have a problem matching the short part number outlined in black (Which is the ten digit number). The other long form numbers are politics. My second numbers didn't match between the two PCMs, but I haven't noticed any difference between the two yet. Here is an example of what should work for you. It's $60. Of course, you always take a chance on Ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/89661-0W010-TOYOTA-LEXUS-OEM-ENGINE-CONTROL-MODULE-UNIT-ECU-ECM-PCM/283199622501?hash=item41f0034d65:g:30gAAOSwL1ZaGb4I
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 Outstanding! Above and Beyond! Oh no, my car came with the A541E from the factory, I had to replace it because wifey accidentally drove in 2nd on the freeway and toasted it. I found a '96 Camry A541E and swapped it out after rebuilding the pump. All was well until my step son decided to text and rear end someone crushing the front end. Went to PYP and replaced hood, re-welded front upper support, replaced radiator and AC radiator. Since the repair the Drive engagement was an issue especially pulling out of parking while turning. Maybe a coincidence the ECM was dying. Who knows :-) I plan to go to my local PYP, they have several 94-96 ES300. Since I know how to test the ECM's, I will do it before I pull from the donor car, if they all fail then I will do the eBay thing. Thanks again, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
@@jimchang911 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you as well. Based on what you said earlier, it sounded like you had the official Toyota Service Manuals. If you don't, here they are. Someone took ALL of the Lexus/Toyota, ES300/Camry service manuals and converted them into PDF format for downloading. I've downloaded all of them, and they have been more than useful. Better than buying a Haynes manual. www.turboninjas.com/camry/ PS: There is an electrical wiring manual that gives exact specs as to what resistance all PCM terminals, and various sensor terminals must be in order to work properly. That electrical manual goes into specs more than any other service manual I have ever read.
I just bought a 95 Camry today. Engine runs great, cold A/C, all new parts under the hood but the old lady couldn’t figure out the transmission problem. RPMs fluctuate a lot trying to shift. Car will drive good starting from L - 2 - D. Car also cuts off when you make sharp left or right turn. Any thought on where I should start first?
I have a 93 Camry Wagon that I have been having issues with and I replaced the fuel pump. It has a crank no start issue where occasionally it will not start. I saw another video where the guy pulled a relay that I believe is a Fuel Pump Circuit Relay that is 5 prong and green in color. The relay is located under the dash on the passenger side and you have to to remove the glove box to access it. I watched another You Tube video where the guy shows you all of the steps to get to the plug. There are 3 of them in that location. I just ordered the module from Rock Auto at $95 and I am hoping this resolves my issues.
Some good advice there. Things I did not know and now glad I do. I have a related problem and my guess was a bad tq converter. Maybe I'm wrong. 2000 Japan Built Toyota Camry XLE V6. I do have issues with my Netural/Park safety switch. It's even throwing the code for it now too. I was about to take it apart and clean it up. It's a serviceable part. It ended when I broke the input gear selector shaft while trying to get off the nut. Soaked it, brushed it first, cleaned it up. Broke anyway with a small amt of force. Can't use a torch, too much plastic around. Was a few threads left. I JB welded a new nut onto the shaft after catching about 2 threads. Rust was holding the bracket so I left that alone. Might be all that's keeping it there. I can not take off the neutral safety sw without that bracket being off. Maybe after I could have the bracket tack welded to the shaft instead of pulling the tranny apart? The two other tiny bolts I did not even try. They go inside the tyranny or just the housing? Again, thinking of corrosion and small nuts/bolts. Tranny shifts fine. Very smooth, catches all the gears and lockup. However, when breaking, there is a speed range for a few seconds that makes a rumble, if I throw it in N, it's smooth again right away. It's low speed, likely all in 1st gear say from about 10 to 5mph during slowdown. New brakes on all 4 corners and not screwed up. Looks and feels good. Not brakes and putting the car in N just makes it all smooth again. Is it that Park Nutural safety switch haunting me? No matter what if I press the brakes, it illuminates R on the dash cluster. Typical misbehaviour from that sw. I was thinking this would be a tq converter. I've never had one go bad but over half my cars were not auto's. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the tranny........
Usually a torque converter will shutter upon acceleration as well. And like the famous Nissan Armadas, they'll just lock in drive full time. Shutter on deceleration could be a whole host of minor issues.
What a coincidence! We have a 94 XLE V6 Camry with a Jvin & without ABS that also has 242K miles and just threw a P0753 code! When we purchased the car in 94 I did NOT want ABS and the dealer had to get it from another out of town dealership and yes, it was made/assembled in Japan. Also watched your other video where you replaced the two shift solenoids and was not too keen on doing the solenoid replacement. So first step for me is to remove the gray square connector and measure the resistance of the two shift solenoid coils. They should be somewhere between 10 and 16 ohms and will be getting ~12v from the computer so should take about 1 amp. If OK then will be checking the connector and wires. Hope the problem is outside the transmission! Have another computer that I got at the Pick&Pull (along with the 4 mating connectors & wires) and did some testing (outside the car) and the P0753 code (solenoid A) was one of the codes that came up when I powered it up without anything connected to the solenoid wires - also got the P0758 code (solenoid B) and other codes since the sensors were not initially connected. 94 Camry V6 ECU 89661-33350 (P&P) put on a board and wired up to 12vdc power & ground. Also wired to 16 pin OBD2 connector and ampmeter (1amp) and toggle switch (IGN ON). Constant 12v on BATT (E10-14) and switched 12v on +B & +B1 (E10-23 & E10-22). No noticeable current for 12v on BATT. 250ma when 12v also on +B & +B1. Topdon scan tool plugged into OBDII connector, IGN ON and had communication with ECU and 6 DTCs - input sensors/solenoids that were not present/connected to the ECU. These 6 codes were; P0100, P0110, P0115, P0120, P0753 and P0758.
An electrical problem can throw you for a loop. Definitely check your wires outside the transmission. After replacing the two shift solenoids in my other Toyota Transmission video, I still got the code once more, complete with O/D light flashing and all. I started unplugging and plugging in the large square connector on the transmission (Shift Solenoid Connector) and the long rectangular plug close to it (The Shift Positioning Sensor Plug). Codes went away after PCM reset, normal operation continued, then the problem came up again, P0753. Finally I moved some wires around going to those connectors, and next thing you know, I find semi-frayed wires. Wires were crossing, that was shorting out the shift solenoids and causing an electrical malfunction. After that last fix about 3-4 months ago, I haven't had a transmission problem since. Also, I did a transmission fluid flush. I flushed all of the old tranny fluid out and replaced it all with new Castrol ATF. Surprisingly, I didn't have as much clutch slip as I thought I would. I replaced my PCM with one from a 94 Camry LE (same part number, but the secondary part number was different), and while my engine performance slightly improved, it didn't initially solve the tranny problem.
Intermittent problem! Took it for a drive this morning to Safeway & Auto Store and it worked some of the time. Easy work around is to put the selector into L and then to 2 and then to D for the shifting from a stop (otherwise it is in 3rd gear and struggles). Got some dielectric grease from the auto store and when the weather gets better will clean/grease/reseat the connector at the transaxle.
@@shoersa I did that as well. The previous owner of my Camry put some kind of white lithium grease in the connector. It was solidified and stopped the connector from making good connection. After cleaning it, and scratching the terminals with a file to expose the copper on the terminals, the connector made good connection. What ultimately solved all shifting problems was finding the frayed shifting solenoid wires that were shorting out and forcing the PCM into a safe mode per the Toyota Service Manual. When the PCM is in this "safe mode" the tranny will only shift manually using L, 2, and D.
@@shoersa Here is a link to all of the Mk III Toyota Camry (1992-1996) service manuals. These manuals are what I use to work on my Camry. I downloaded all of them and to say the least, they have more than helpful. They have an electrical service manual that goes into detail about PCM terminal ohms and voltage and what each terminal on every connector should be reading. Then there is a service manual for the A541E, that explains the electrical values of the connectors, PCM terminals, and more. www.turboninjas.com/camry/
Thanks man, interesting. I'm pretty sure the '94 I have didn't come with ABS from Japan. Very strange that it doesn't have ANY sign of ABS or traction control at all. My Camry was manufactured in JANUARY of 1994. It was imported from Japan's plant according to the VIN. It has a round underneath the dash, and has the ABS light, but there was no factory bulb in it. It has the oversized calipers and rotors. It's the first time I've seen any Toyota in the 90's without ABS. I'm convinced that somebody was on a waiting list for this particular car.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 I have a 94 Lexus ES300 kinda the same car but ABS was probably a option on the Camry. It does not have traction control I am not sure if it was available in 94.
I did learn one thing about Toyota PCMs. Some are more finicky than others regarding throwing codes. And they are prone to getting weak, losing their continuity and elec. values. I haven't had this problem with Ford or Isuzu yet. If there was a meme to be created about Toyota on social media, it would definitely involve the check engine light.
Hi @Isuzo Amigo Enthusiast Channel... Is that common to fail the PCM in the RAV4 2010. Have problem to shift in to the 4th gear with no code... Thank you
@@Jonhand09 In the 2010 Rav 4, you should have thrown some type of code. If the PCM was going bad, it should throw a code, as well as self-check/self-diagnose all parameters. If your having a shifting problem at 4th gear, what kind, and is your check engine light working? A lot of people remove the check engine display to make a quick sale on a car/truck. I've even seen idiots use electrical tape. Make sure your check engine indicator is working. I'm sure you know how to do that. Is it jumping from third to fourth, is it slipping, or is it failing to shift at all?
I'm thinking about buy a 1995 toyota camry ( It's gonna be my first car but the owner said, ''The cars starts but won't drive.'' She doesn't know why. Can you answer this question for me please😓
If the car starts and responds to you pressing the throttle, then the engine is in running shape. It depends, is it an automatic, or a manual transmission?
Did it help? It sounds like low pump pressure, seals, etc. There isn't very much to a Toyota Transmission as far as I've seen. We've moved on to Ford's and Chevrolet's automatic transmissions. Every now and then you get lucky with additives that soften and swell seals temporarily. If you try to use something like TransX additive or Sea Foam and it works, then it's time for a partial or full rebuild in the future. That's my best advice. Of course check your electrical connections, mainly the problematic one that attaches your selector to the trans. I started using PB Blaster for terminal cleaner because it doesn't short out the plug like WD-40 or certain greases do.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this video and the information man!
I have a 1995 Camry 2.2 (A140E) trans and during the 2nd half of an 18hr drive it felt like it “ let go” of the gear when I was doing about 70-75 mph. When I say let go, the RPM’s were holding steady at 2500 @70 and all of a sudden with no extra pressure applied to the gas, it went up to 27-2800. Not a huge jump, but the O/D light began to flash at the same time. The ECM was changed about a month prior because it was fried, it wasn’t sending a pulse to the distributor coil (fed emissions, internal coil)
The problem the trans is having now is that USUALLY when you accelerate lightly at 45-55, it will downshift once and the tach will be at 1800-2000 rpm, well it seems to be skipping that now. Also when braking for traffic or a complete stop, going from 40-20mph it kinda feels like it stumbles. All the while the O/D light is flashing. It looks like the rpm’s are up about 4-500 while this is all happening and I’m wondering if it’s the ECM again or something else. This is my 3rd Camry with the same drivetrain setup and I’ve never had this issue. I also checked the TPS and the pigtail and that all looks good. I just don’t wanna drive it too much in the state it’s in, exhibiting the behavior it’s displaying because I can’t afford to get another car. But I really have never dealt with this before. Any info would be helpful! I don’t have an OBD2 port. But I do have the circular OBD1 under the dash in the footwell. I also don’t have ABS as I saw one comment stated it was for ABS readings which now I’m really curious about
Thanks a lot man... Have you tried crossing the two pins and getting an OBD 1 code? Very well could be your computer. Could be a weak ground signal, could be dirty or low fluid. Could be a solenoid, could be the plug to the Shift Position Sensor. It could have a loose, faulty connection, or even moisture. Definitely sounds electrical because your trans. sounds like it's going into a "limp mode". Sounds like you're running around in 2nd gear. The first thing I do is test my manual shift. Find out if you can get it to take off in first gear and then manually shift 2nd, 3rd/D. Find out if it acts different when in drive taking off from a dead stop. If it's trying to take off in 3rd or 2nd gear the trans is in protect mode. If the O/D light is flashing, chances are you don't have Overdrive at all for the interstate. You could also try clearing the Check Engine light by disconnecting the battery. You could have a stuck solenoid, wiring problems, but I'd keep checking those plugs and try to recall if you ran through any bad weather prior to this or had any service work done within a day or so from this problem happening. I'll do my best to help guide you through. In the meantime, check the internet for OBD 1 pin crossing to get whatever code was stored. Let me know if it comes back as the famous "shift solenoid A or B."
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 I definitely will. I tried to reset the ECM by doing the following:
Disconnect the battery and left the lights on, left the key in ACC mode.
Car drive fine after and for about 2hrs consecutively.
Shut it off to go to the store and returned less than 5 minutes later. Once I started it and got into gear it revved way high in shifting from gear 1-2. Then the od light began flashing again and the fun started. Got to a light, and after I took off it shifted fine again but the od light doesn't stop unless the car is shut off. Car drove thru a bad storm in Pennsylvania making my way down to Florida. It's definitely weird and I don't wanna give this thing up yet. I really feel like there's hope because it does drive good when it's behaving (after reset)
The sensor is gonna get looked at today. I just find it so weird that it can shift perfectly and then the minute it's turned off and back on again it's acting substantially worse. The fluid was full and okay for 8 months following this, (I check all fluids very frequently) I added 1/2 a bottle of Lucas in it just so it would help "cushion" things because it was shifting so hard. It helped with shift transitions but I don't hope for it to do more
@@devinprasad3449 It's definitely an electrical problem... I'd put my money on a loose, faulty connection, an ECM malfunction, a loose ground engine to chassis (a.k.a a weak ground signal). Mine was close to doing the exact same things, mine was sporatic. But it usually started with the ignition shut off and back on. My problem was in the wire loom. There were several signal wires in the transmission wiring harness that ran on top of the transmission that branches off to your various sensors from the speed sensor, to the transmission range sensor. What caused the problem was time and the constant flexing of the engine mounts. It's the same thing that happens in the driver side door jamb after the doors open and close a couple thousand times. After you have your sensors checked see if you can get it to not act up, then raise the hood with it running and shake the harness around. See if you can get it to go into O/D flash. Keep me posted man... I'm pretty sure you'll figure it out if you stay at it. You definitely sound intelligent enough.
Thanks! It's been hard trying to learn my Toyota for years now.
Will a bad transmission solenoid make the car go into limp mode?
The transmission has its own version of limp mode. More or less, gets stuck in 2nd gear. But yes.... The solenoid is an electronic component. If it fails, it would throw the computer into a protection mode. It's worth noting that half the time, these problems come from faulty wiring or bad connections, especially from the plugs located on the transmission under the battery. The shift position sensor, or whatever people want to call it. Always check the connections on that before you pull the transmission apart.
Hey can you help me please I have a 1995 Toyota Camry and it’s having issues shifting and the overdrive light is flashing on and off
Check all of your electrical connections first. Every connection that plugs into the tranny.
Does the 4cylinder use the same transmission?
Pls help me out, my 2.2 gear is not respond fast you have to leave for 20 to 30minutes before you engage it in D or R . Is the is cold and you engage it will work you have to leave the engine to run for long time. Pls what could be the cause ?
I've been tracing everything back to the ECM on mine, throwing codes for Trans Solenoids A and E on top of a P1600 (ECM battery short), will have to check out the wiring later
96 Camry 2.2L. 1st - 2nd shifts lazy on D (almost like it's slipping) but shifts strong and smooth when on 2. Any potential solutions? Had the trans filter changed and did 3 drain and fills 4k miles ago prior to this. (Used STP Dex 3)
96 Camry I put a&b solenoid again which it was starting off and second or third year now reverse is gone what could be my problem
Check for a dirty valve body/fluid, and/or check balls misplaced or missing. But electrical connections always come first. Especially your range sensor.
Wow- trying to distill the fix is rough! I appreciate your time and overview….but -did cleaning up the connections fix the shifting? I have the same situation/ manual shifting thru L,D2-D works and is necessary but maybe it’s that square connector….Thanks I’ll investigate
Thanks, that helps a ton! Sounds like a tedious job, but I am going to go for it. Thanks again
I bought a 95 Camry not long ago, I replaced the head gasket + engine seals, new radiator, new spark plugs, new oil and filter, new coolant temp sensor, and whilst driving after a week the engine light and over drive light has come on and both are constantly flashing, car drives completely great and has no issues when shifting or idling, but can not remove these flashing lights…
I’ve used a scan tool and it shows no codes via the engine and/or the transmission… any thoughts?
No mechanical problems? If no, find the short or loose connection. Reset the PCM/ECM. Check all of the trans. plug connections for brittle or broken wires. This usually happens around flex points, portions of the wiring harness that flex when the engine torques forward or backwards.
Success! It took awhile because I was fighting with Toyota NA about their stoopid Upper Valve Body Gasket set. My VIN states the gasket is the same as the 97-00 A541E. Unfortunately, the cut outs did not match. I found over 6 areas where it was significantly different. Went to a junk yard to verify and yeap, my transmission came from a '94 Camry XLE, completely different gasket. Toyota does not sell the proper gasket, or shall I say the old one. I rolled the dice and to my surprise the new superceded gasket worked. Also replaced SLN, prior to install I checked OHMs and 12V test with a vacuum on it. My old one was not holding a vacuum. While in there I also swapped the old/tired #1 & #2 solenoids. They too tested tired but ohmed out OK.
Also changed the little 1/2" donut gasket, bloody Toyota called is "BRAKE APPLY" dealer tagged it as Governor Apply, maybe a Japanese translation issue?
She drives like a new car, shifts in to drive and reverse without delay, smooth and quiet. Bonus more power, did not expect that. For others, you must insure the fluid level is at proper levels or it will not go into gear. Ask me how I know :-)
Again thank you so much to you fine Gentlemen and Timely Stuff. Life savers all of you. God Bless you All!
So I need to chat about that bloody, throttle cable install: I purchased four 100MM x 1.0Pitch M6 bolts from ACE. I used these as guides and holder so I could get that silly cable on without tearing up the new gasket. I could have used a helper but did not trust helper not to damage the gaskets.
Congratulations man. Mine's still going strong, hit 132 passing a car full of girls that were in a newer Nissan Maxima. It's good to see people taking on these jobs themselves instead of being intimidated by the almighty automatic trans. Thank you and God Bless you and everybody out there with the courage to open these cans of worms. Those of us who take these challenges in our own hands are the true pioneers with something to be proud of in the true 1 percent. Not just the ol' "It broke, I gotta depend on someone else." This is true freedom, not just an auto repair. Thumbs up to you Jim Chang.
Having trouble finding that gasket. Do you have a part number?
@@mikehopkins7942 Sorry brother, I went to the dealer and pointed to the items needed on their computer. they are the two thin "mylar" paper like gaskets, the metal shim/plate can be re-used, If I can find the receipt, I will post here
1995 toyota camry. It shift thru all the gear sometimes. The od is flashing. What could be the problem?
2 things... The wiring harnesses to the transmission have loose, weak connections, or moisture in the plugs. The other thing is, a dirty filter and dirty transmission fluid, causing a solenoid to hang.
Thank you. Will check it out.
Where would the wiring harnesses be for the transmission and plugs?
@@kendrickwashington4119 your wiring should be the same as explained at the end of this video. Seems common for the wires to get brittle after 200k, from all the heat and vibration in the engine bay.
Did you find which wires were frayed, and did you replace them? What was the procedure you used to narrow down the electrical to that one-foot area? I have 95 with exactly the same issues--replaced solenoids but still have to manually shift. I can do most things if I have a process to follow--so if you can help with how you narrowed the harness area, that would be great. You did so many things--are you certain this is the issue, or do you think changing the PCM may have fixed it. I reset the PCM, but still had the codes--they only go away if I disconnect the battery--then they come back on after running the car for awhile. Hey, thank you so much. Your videos are easy to follow.
It's most likely the harness under the battery tray. Sometimes the selector switch plug gets moisture in it. Engines with high miles, the wires fray inside the jacket as they make their way over the top of the transmission. I found several wires shorting together after I removed the insulation and the tape, wire loom. I butt connected several connections back together and taped them apart separate. I still have the original PCM and I switched them since that time and the problem never came back. Those specific wires run through that switch that directly affect solenoid A and B through power interruption. Hope this helps, thanks.
Thank you for your input you're video is A GREAT HELP🙂🤣
So I have a 1992 toyota camry with the 2.2 4 cylinder automatic the problem I have is shifting into drive the light wont engage into drive light up on cluster panel will shift up to third and the floor shifter won't lock in drive so replaced the floor shift assembly thinking that was the problem but still doing the same thing I have no problem shifting into 1st and 2nd so I'm thinking it something electrical
Shift Selector Range Sensor, or something or another. Check that plug and the range selector, it's on the transmission connected to the selector shaft. Most Toyota tranny problems electrical in nature surround that device. The contacts in it might not be receiving a drive signal. However, you do have individual light bulbs that show D and OD. I'm not saying that's your problem, I'm just making you aware that your instrument cluster has a bulb for each selection on the dash, and some in the console. But if it's not shifting into D or OD and you can feel it, check that assembly on the transmission. The battery, road grime, and water usually cause problems over time with this plug and range selector sensor. People call it all different names.
I saw on other videos their was a adjustment wheel under steering wheel
Update: Well finally, bloody transmission thru the dreaded code P0770, shift lock up is toast, I can actually hear rattling when car is on coming from the transmission. Will update after I swap out the SL Solenoid. Again thanks fellas!
Good luck. As long as those hard parts aren't ruined, it should be reparable
Thanks for the video!! Very informative. Im currently try to diagnose similar issues with my 1995 lexus es300. Would you assume that the lexus has these similar issues that you mention due to it being basically a fancy camry? Id like to chat with you regarding the issues im having with my lexus. To see if you have any ideas or can point me in the right direction. Thank you in advance.
Sorry, been working this recession. Hadn't had time to respond. Yes, I'd say the engine bays are basically the same layout.
Thank you both for posting this actual Follow Up video much appreciated. I wish more tubers did this.
If I may share my issue: No CEL ( strange ), intermittently, from Park to Drive it takes about 3-4 seconds to engage. Reverse, no issue.
I did as you suggested with a little mod. I checked three, the SL "E", 1 & 2 solenoids on top of the transmission at the connector, harness from the ECM and the ECM itself.
All Solenoids measured within Tolerance 13.8 Ohms
Harness had good continuity
ECM failed at SL pin reading 6.9K Ohms, should be between 8-100K Ohms per TSM
For extra measure, I also check the NC2+ & NC2- at ECM, also failed, resistance was way over 530-680 Ohms per TSM
I hope I have come to the correct conclusion that the ECM is dying, I write dying because, while on the road she pulls great and shifts great ( Not like your car 136MPH :-).
I know you replaced an ECM from an LE to your XLE without issues. I am wondering how critical is it to match all 10 digits or do you think first 5 digits 89661-XXXXX is all that matters? Mine is an 89661-0W010 a 1996 ECM for v6's ( my car is a ES300 with a transplanted A541E )
Thank you for taking the time to read this long post,
Jim
Jim, the PCM/ECM is definitely the suspect. Just for good measure, I'd check for grounding issues. But it sounds like you may have already gotten past that. If your ES300 already came with the A541E (Which it should have being from '96), you shouldn't have a problem matching the short part number outlined in black (Which is the ten digit number). The other long form numbers are politics. My second numbers didn't match between the two PCMs, but I haven't noticed any difference between the two yet.
Here is an example of what should work for you. It's $60. Of course, you always take a chance on Ebay.
www.ebay.com/itm/89661-0W010-TOYOTA-LEXUS-OEM-ENGINE-CONTROL-MODULE-UNIT-ECU-ECM-PCM/283199622501?hash=item41f0034d65:g:30gAAOSwL1ZaGb4I
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 Outstanding! Above and Beyond!
Oh no, my car came with the A541E from the factory, I had to replace it because wifey accidentally drove in 2nd on the freeway and toasted it. I found a '96 Camry A541E and swapped it out after rebuilding the pump. All was well until my step son decided to text and rear end someone crushing the front end. Went to PYP and replaced hood, re-welded front upper support, replaced radiator and AC radiator. Since the repair the Drive engagement was an issue especially pulling out of parking while turning. Maybe a coincidence the ECM was dying. Who knows :-)
I plan to go to my local PYP, they have several 94-96 ES300. Since I know how to test the ECM's, I will do it before I pull from the donor car, if they all fail then I will do the eBay thing.
Thanks again, Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
@@jimchang911 Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you as well.
Based on what you said earlier, it sounded like you had the official Toyota Service Manuals. If you don't, here they are. Someone took ALL of the Lexus/Toyota, ES300/Camry service manuals and converted them into PDF format for downloading. I've downloaded all of them, and they have been more than useful. Better than buying a Haynes manual.
www.turboninjas.com/camry/
PS: There is an electrical wiring manual that gives exact specs as to what resistance all PCM terminals, and various sensor terminals must be in order to work properly. That electrical manual goes into specs more than any other service manual I have ever read.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 Oh Yes, I did download the pdf files from your first video. Thank you again!
I just bought a 95 Camry today. Engine runs great, cold A/C, all new parts under the hood but the old lady couldn’t figure out the transmission problem. RPMs fluctuate a lot trying to shift. Car will drive good starting from L - 2 - D. Car also cuts off when you make sharp left or right turn. Any thought on where I should start first?
95? Start with fuel pump and vacuum lines leaking. Fuel filter, the whole 9 yards, plugs, check coil packs and boots.
Throw it out
I have a 93 Camry Wagon that I have been having issues with and I replaced the fuel pump. It has a crank no start issue where occasionally it will not start. I saw another video where the guy pulled a relay that I believe is a Fuel Pump Circuit Relay that is 5 prong and green in color. The relay is located under the dash on the passenger side and you have to to remove the glove box to access it. I watched another You Tube video where the guy shows you all of the steps to get to the plug. There are 3 of them in that location. I just ordered the module from Rock Auto at $95 and I am hoping this resolves my issues.
I have a 1994 XLE v6 that shifts just fine some days and other days you feel the *jolt* more when shifting gears
Some good advice there. Things I did not know and now glad I do. I have a related problem and my guess was a bad tq converter. Maybe I'm wrong. 2000 Japan Built Toyota Camry XLE V6. I do have issues with my Netural/Park safety switch. It's even throwing the code for it now too. I was about to take it apart and clean it up. It's a serviceable part. It ended when I broke the input gear selector shaft while trying to get off the nut. Soaked it, brushed it first, cleaned it up. Broke anyway with a small amt of force. Can't use a torch, too much plastic around. Was a few threads left. I JB welded a new nut onto the shaft after catching about 2 threads. Rust was holding the bracket so I left that alone. Might be all that's keeping it there. I can not take off the neutral safety sw without that bracket being off. Maybe after I could have the bracket tack welded to the shaft instead of pulling the tranny apart? The two other tiny bolts I did not even try. They go inside the tyranny or just the housing? Again, thinking of corrosion and small nuts/bolts. Tranny shifts fine. Very smooth, catches all the gears and lockup. However, when breaking, there is a speed range for a few seconds that makes a rumble, if I throw it in N, it's smooth again right away. It's low speed, likely all in 1st gear say from about 10 to 5mph during slowdown. New brakes on all 4 corners and not screwed up. Looks and feels good. Not brakes and putting the car in N just makes it all smooth again. Is it that Park Nutural safety switch haunting me? No matter what if I press the brakes, it illuminates R on the dash cluster. Typical misbehaviour from that sw. I was thinking this would be a tq converter. I've never had one go bad but over half my cars were not auto's. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the tranny........
Usually a torque converter will shutter upon acceleration as well. And like the famous Nissan Armadas, they'll just lock in drive full time. Shutter on deceleration could be a whole host of minor issues.
What a coincidence! We have a 94 XLE V6 Camry with a Jvin & without ABS that also has 242K miles and just threw a P0753 code! When we purchased the car in 94 I did NOT want ABS and the dealer had to get it from another out of town dealership and yes, it was made/assembled in Japan. Also watched your other video where you replaced the two shift solenoids and was not too keen on doing the solenoid replacement. So first step for me is to remove the gray square connector and measure the resistance of the two shift solenoid coils. They should be somewhere between 10 and 16 ohms and will be getting ~12v from the computer so should take about 1 amp. If OK then will be checking the connector and wires. Hope the problem is outside the transmission!
Have another computer that I got at the Pick&Pull (along with the 4 mating connectors & wires) and did some testing (outside the car) and the P0753 code (solenoid A) was one of the codes that came up when I powered it up without anything connected to the solenoid wires - also got the P0758 code (solenoid B) and other codes since the sensors were not initially connected.
94 Camry V6 ECU 89661-33350 (P&P) put on a board and wired up to 12vdc power & ground. Also wired to 16 pin OBD2 connector and ampmeter (1amp) and toggle switch (IGN ON). Constant 12v on BATT (E10-14) and switched 12v on +B & +B1 (E10-23 & E10-22). No noticeable current for 12v on BATT. 250ma when 12v also on +B & +B1. Topdon scan tool plugged into OBDII connector, IGN ON and had communication with ECU and 6 DTCs - input sensors/solenoids that were not present/connected to the ECU. These 6 codes were; P0100, P0110, P0115, P0120, P0753 and P0758.
An electrical problem can throw you for a loop. Definitely check your wires outside the transmission. After replacing the two shift solenoids in my other Toyota Transmission video, I still got the code once more, complete with O/D light flashing and all. I started unplugging and plugging in the large square connector on the transmission (Shift Solenoid Connector) and the long rectangular plug close to it (The Shift Positioning Sensor Plug). Codes went away after PCM reset, normal operation continued, then the problem came up again, P0753. Finally I moved some wires around going to those connectors, and next thing you know, I find semi-frayed wires. Wires were crossing, that was shorting out the shift solenoids and causing an electrical malfunction. After that last fix about 3-4 months ago, I haven't had a transmission problem since. Also, I did a transmission fluid flush. I flushed all of the old tranny fluid out and replaced it all with new Castrol ATF. Surprisingly, I didn't have as much clutch slip as I thought I would. I replaced my PCM with one from a 94 Camry LE (same part number, but the secondary part number was different), and while my engine performance slightly improved, it didn't initially solve the tranny problem.
Intermittent problem! Took it for a drive this morning to Safeway & Auto Store and it worked some of the time. Easy work around is to put the selector into L and then to 2 and then to D for the shifting from a stop (otherwise it is in 3rd gear and struggles). Got some dielectric grease from the auto store and when the weather gets better will clean/grease/reseat the connector at the transaxle.
@@shoersa I did that as well. The previous owner of my Camry put some kind of white lithium grease in the connector. It was solidified and stopped the connector from making good connection. After cleaning it, and scratching the terminals with a file to expose the copper on the terminals, the connector made good connection. What ultimately solved all shifting problems was finding the frayed shifting solenoid wires that were shorting out and forcing the PCM into a safe mode per the Toyota Service Manual. When the PCM is in this "safe mode" the tranny will only shift manually using L, 2, and D.
@@shoersa Here is a link to all of the Mk III Toyota Camry (1992-1996) service manuals. These manuals are what I use to work on my Camry. I downloaded all of them and to say the least, they have more than helpful. They have an electrical service manual that goes into detail about PCM terminal ohms and voltage and what each terminal on every connector should be reading. Then there is a service manual for the A541E, that explains the electrical values of the connectors, PCM terminals, and more.
www.turboninjas.com/camry/
The obd 1 port on the intake is for the airbags, the round connector under the dash is for the anti lock brakes. OBD 2 is for engine and trans.
Thanks man, interesting. I'm pretty sure the '94 I have didn't come with ABS from Japan. Very strange that it doesn't have ANY sign of ABS or traction control at all. My Camry was manufactured in JANUARY of 1994. It was imported from Japan's plant according to the VIN. It has a round underneath the dash, and has the ABS light, but there was no factory bulb in it. It has the oversized calipers and rotors. It's the first time I've seen any Toyota in the 90's without ABS. I'm convinced that somebody was on a waiting list for this particular car.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 I have a 94 Lexus ES300 kinda the same car but ABS was probably a option on the Camry. It does not have traction control I am not sure if it was available in 94.
I did learn one thing about Toyota PCMs. Some are more finicky than others regarding throwing codes. And they are prone to getting weak, losing their continuity and elec. values. I haven't had this problem with Ford or Isuzu yet. If there was a meme to be created about Toyota on social media, it would definitely involve the check engine light.
Hi @Isuzo Amigo Enthusiast Channel... Is that common to fail the PCM in the RAV4 2010. Have problem to shift in to the 4th gear with no code... Thank you
@@Jonhand09 In the 2010 Rav 4, you should have thrown some type of code. If the PCM was going bad, it should throw a code, as well as self-check/self-diagnose all parameters. If your having a shifting problem at 4th gear, what kind, and is your check engine light working? A lot of people remove the check engine display to make a quick sale on a car/truck. I've even seen idiots use electrical tape. Make sure your check engine indicator is working. I'm sure you know how to do that. Is it jumping from third to fourth, is it slipping, or is it failing to shift at all?
OBD 1 or OBD 2
OBD 2. 1994 Toyota Camry WITH THE V6! If it has the 4 cylinder, then it uses an OBD 1 system. Toyota stopped using OBD 1 in 1996.
I'm thinking about buy a 1995 toyota camry ( It's gonna be my first car but the owner said, ''The cars starts but won't drive.'' She doesn't know why. Can you answer this question for me please😓
If the car starts and responds to you pressing the throttle, then the engine is in running shape. It depends, is it an automatic, or a manual transmission?
I change the valve body all the same
Did it help? It sounds like low pump pressure, seals, etc. There isn't very much to a Toyota Transmission as far as I've seen. We've moved on to Ford's and Chevrolet's automatic transmissions. Every now and then you get lucky with additives that soften and swell seals temporarily. If you try to use something like TransX additive or Sea Foam and it works, then it's time for a partial or full rebuild in the future. That's my best advice. Of course check your electrical connections, mainly the problematic one that attaches your selector to the trans. I started using PB Blaster for terminal cleaner because it doesn't short out the plug like WD-40 or certain greases do.