How to Install a DUET board on a Delta Style 3D Printer - The TEVO Little Monster
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2018
- Better than Marlin, by far! This is a complete guide to installing a DUET board into your Delta Style 3D printer with a BLTouch, and a filament run-out switch/sensor.
I forgot to mention in the video, but you will need to get some "dupont connectors" for hacking the BLTouch sensor onto this board. These can be obtained by purchasing some female pre-assembled wires (link: amzn.to/2K6rQdT ) and splicing them onto the TLM wires, or by making your own dupont connectors with a kit (link: amzn.to/2tABAmz ).
Get all the digital files from me here: bit.ly/2uyR9vl
Dupont Crimping Plyers: amzn.to/2lyIOCP
Installation instruction manual: bit.ly/2uJhTIJ
Timecodes:
0:56 - Installing the driver for PC
1:45 - Terminal connection to DUET board for first time
4:04 - Getting IP address for the DUET
7:45 - BLTouch preparation
8:19 - Tools needed
9:31 - How to install crimp ends
12:32 - Wiring Diagram
14:53 - Online Firmware Configurator
15:28 - Uploading configuration to DUET board
16:13 - Modifying configuration files
Make Custom Macros: • Ditching the MKS Sbase...
20:46 - Setting the Trigger height (sensor offset from nozzle)
24:51 - Auto Delta Calibration
26:04 - Sending Test Print
26:56 - Start and End scripts in your slicer software.
31:12 - Forum
31:58 - Final Thoughts
Hello Matthew. You have a configuration error. Check out the settings and compare with the video. Section heating. I do not stop the heating of the bed, as well as the nozzle is not heated. In the video, you connect the nozzle heater connector to e1, and in the settings it is e0.
Nikolay, Thank you for the correction.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I can not stop heating the bed. I do not know where to look for the problem.
Check your messages on Patreon. I provided a more in depth solution over there. But summarizing here: Take a look at the pinout diagram ( d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/duet3d/YN2oahyGpcPNN1Pw.huge )
My mistake in the video is that I showed the thermistor wires for the hotend going to E1 and the control wires for the hotend going to E0. It is important that you match these two, but it doesn't matter which slot you choose. If your Hotend is connected to board position "E0" the firmware commands will look like this: M143 H1 and M305 P1 If your Hotend is connected to board position "E1" the firmware commands will look like this: M143 H2 and M305 P2
I'm overwhelmed how evenly and quiet the engines are running. Like in another league. Thanks for the great Manual. It works fine. And i have save a lot of time.
That S160 command is all i needed to get my bltouch working and I didnt read it anywhere in the wiki or bltouch troubleshoot guide. Thanks man.
Now I'm using Duets on all my printers and must admit, you were absolutely right that this is the best thing you can do to your 3d printer.
Love everything you do with the videos keep up the great work!
Thanks alot! It did help me upgrade my TLM with Duet Wifi!!
Thank you so much on this how to. Been looking everywhere for this and you made this easy how to and now I am hoping to get my Delta working on the same board
Thanks for the comment Derek. I'm glad I could help.
Just swapped out the MKS for a Duet3d 2 Wifi. What a cool board for the TLM. The biggest issue was not the board but the dupont connectors. Boy are those finicky. Most of my time was insuring continuity and chasing down poor crimps. They looked good but were cold. Besides the quality crimpers I recommend a good multimeter. I had no intention of using the Duet on my TLM. I am in the process of building a huge format custom CoreXY and was going to use it for that beast (x600mm x y600mm x z1000mm). Glad I installed the Duet. It gave me some valuable experience with it. Now have to order another for the CoreXY. Thanks for the awesome and informative video.
Lol I mentioned doing this upgrade on one ofvthe early vids. Glad you came to your senses. I absolutely love my TLM and duet. I also got the smart effector, hayden 400mm mag arms, berd air part cooling pump, and a zesty nimble.
MasterMoparMan how is the nimble? Thought of getting one too. Also, are the magballs really worth it?
Nikolai Schauer the meatballs are nice and smooth. And really only required if you use the smart effector.
I love the zesty. Best alt to having a flying extruder and still have a direct drive. My carriage don't drop any more when I turn it off
i just upgraded my tevo with a relais that is controlled by the duet, also i wired a smokedetektor to it so it will shut off automatically when there is a fire!
I figured that would be a nice topic for your upgrade series, so if you are interested in schematics etc write me :D
This is the vid that convinced me to upgrade my Anycubic Predator to linear rails and a full Duet setup. Ultimately, I'd say its worth it. But it had its issues (all, really user error related to getting the Z height right in M665)! A few notes; 1.)Don't bother with the PanuelDue, that was a total waste of money. The DuetWifi is pretty cool (once setup) because the total uniformity of Gcodes gives you tight control of every aspect of the printer; leveling, calibration, extra functions, and even the print files). Totally unlike the black box of most brands (especially Chinese) where you have no idea why something fails and you spend eons troubleshooting it. Also its totally worth it to run the G32 before every print (w/no mesh calibration). The bed.g file preheats the bed to 80C as recommended, and the nozzle can heat up while bed calibration is underway (using Duet Smart effector, too). And it hardly adds 30 seconds to each print....
Thanks for the video! Just finished upgrading my TLM with the Duet, thanks to your instructions :)
I still have 1 problem that I need to figure out. I think I need to set the correct XY distance for the probe and the nozzle, since it's probing outside the bed on the side with the BLTouch, when it's doing the bed leveling.
It sounds like you need to change the probe location in your homez.g and homeall.g files.
Hey there, loving your videos, but could you speak to the ability of this printer for printing small parts? Can it print gears? What about a 1cm^3 cube? What about using the high speed of the delta while using a very small nozzle? Thanks!
Awesome vid altough i already knew most of the stuff :D
Great information! Thanks!
A little tip for a delta -- you can do a bed mesh with more points and save it, and then prior to each print probe the center with a G30 to make sure you adjust for any environmental issues/bed temp variations. This will make sure you are always starting at the same height. This will mean you only probe 1 spot on the bed before the start of a print -- mesh becomes relative to the height of that spot.
I've done some experimenting and this bed fluctuates quite a bit. If I leave it hot for a significant amount of time, It is actually quite flat in the map, but If I map it as soon as it reaches temp. It comes out looking like you saw in the video or worse. Also, it changes depending on the temperature of the bed. Therefore, I think the best option is to run an entire mesh bed leveling routine before every print. This guarantees success. If you have your Z dive height tuned as well as your probing speed, it shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to run the auto calibration and bed mapping. Compared the the hours and hours it takes to do many prints what is 2 or 3 minutes?
Here are a couple ideas for further upgrades that i found to be very usefull:
-parking brakes and adjusting the pressure on the wheels inside the c beam
-stall detection
-New powersupply (old one is super crappy and very loud, i got me a 100w psu for 25€ that has passive cooling)
- enclosure with an exhaust fan and a ambient temperature display display
- upgrading the stepper motors to 0.9 degree ones and instaling tl smoothers
-adding a raspi with octoprint and a webcam
Hi Nikolai, Thank you for the ideas! These are all solid upgrades for 3D printers in general, but why install TLSmoothers on the TLM when I already have Trinamics controlling the steppers? Also, the DUET is already controlled via Wifi. As far as I can tell, there is minimal gain to be had installing and configuring a whole other bit of hardware (raspberry pi) and software (Octoprint). The webcam Octolapse thing can be accomplished within Reprap firmware. It's not as developed, but you can get it to function. I do plan on making a heated enclosure, but why put an exhaust fan on it? Why not keep it all contained in the enclosure? The parking brakes is a neat idea. But it might be unnecessary if I end up installing a Zesty Nimble. Apparently removing the weight of the extruder motor means that the end effector doesn't fall from the weight of itself. The Stall Detection is a great idea. I found a write-up and it is a feature built into the DUET that I can just configure and get it working perfectly. Also, the .9 degree stepper motor upgrade is a good idea that I had never considered before. Thanks for that. :)
It might be worth trying to tweak the voltage threshold, for the power cut from 10V to something higher like 11.5
so if that it drops below that it will have more time to do the gcode it runs on power fail (which I think is to move the head up)
More duet tech talk firmware tips,macros,tuning I haven't found a whole lot videos on deltas running duets
Resume on power loss is a useless feature for me too. I have a delta tower, it is huge.
The static no power holding torque of the motors is not enough to stop the head from sagging into the print like it did on yours.
I have a solution to this. I now run all my printers off an old server UPS :)
I think i will try a duet board with my delta.
Why did you changed to Duet? Did you had time delay when extruding? I bought a second hand TLM and I’m having time delay when I extrude (after retract). Also no user feiendly way to change filament while the printer works...if I pause the print, then the machine moves extremely slow...Thank tou for your excellent videos!
Hi,
thanks for your video that helped me a lot for my duet conversion.
I have a question about the steps per mm.
at 15:08, you show 403 mm for the extruder, and then in your config file (at 20:17) we can see 798 mm
what is the value you are using?
thanks
Figure it out yourself for your specific printer. Detach your Bowden tube from from the hotend. Cut the filament flush with the end of the Bowden tube. Manually have your printer extrude 100mm of filament. Measure the actual filament extruded, then do the cross multiplication like I showed in this video here: th-cam.com/video/VXBr3MTs50c/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for a great Video. I have buy the Duet Board. And i like it to. Like me, you have not bought a touch screen yet. Maybe a good Christmas present.
I really don't see the utility. For the money, I will just buy an inexpensive Android tablet. I can keep it near the printer(s) for when I need to access the controls at the printer, and when I"m not printing I have a Tablet.
they are right again.
Thanks for all the help. I'm having issues getting the fans working. They seem to be 24v, but the power from the Duet is only 3.3 to 5V. How can we get these fans working?
There is a 3 pin jumper below all off the fan plugs on the Duet Board. This is where you switch between 5v and 24v (AKA Vin). Simply change the jumper so that it connects the middle pin and the right pin. The connector that I am talking about can be seen in the diagram here: d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/duet3d/4k56ZjaaAHrTJI6Z.huge
In case you don't understand what I'm talking about, this is a jumper: i.stack.imgur.com/cm97V.png It is a little plastic plug that connects two pins together.
Great tutorial and you have gotten me 99% of the way there but my Zprob reads 1000 while yours reads 0 and I can't figure out why! I have been trying to figure this out for ages I'm pretty sure all my settings are the exact same as yours. Any ideas from anyone?
I don't expect you to tell me.... but... I now have a large Delta with a DUET... Love it. I remember seeing a video where you were working on how to stop the TLM from "falling" after the print finished? My Artemis does exactly that... The printer Homes and then takes a nose dive into my print. I would prefer it to "hold" ever so slightly until I come to set it free. I've been trying to find this solution on your videos all evening. If not, no big deal.
Whatever the slicer program you are using modify the end script gcode so that it does not disable the stepper motors after the print is finished. This will keep the steppers powered on and they will not fall.
Thanks! So I tried that, but inevitably it lets go eventually. The Artemis has the same genuine DuetWifi and RepRap FW. I wonder if I’m the firmware if it times out?
Thank You for the help.
Why don't you make sure that your end script turns off the heated nozzle. Then, when the motors eventually shut off it will be no big deal that the cold nozzle came to lightly rest on the printed part.
Design Prototype Test I did that... my biggest concern was it hitting the prints and breaking them. It’s almost like this printer effector has zero resistance. On many occasions I’ll just be sitting there and see it falling out of the corner of my eye.
Design Prototype Test this is my first delta so I’m trying to learn. It’s really mesmerizing to watch work.
Hello.
I just bought an Anycubic Predator used and the guy includes a Duet 2 wifi... but When I did connect the motors and tried to Home one of the drivers just burn and Now it's overheating. I saw on Duet Forum that You can disable this burned stepper driver and use the Extruder2 one... Is this correct? Do you ever do that? It's so hot that I can't put my finger into the stepper driver.
Hi everyone I have a problem to configure the z-offset or after the procedure with the G30 S-1 command my extruder slams on the plate. I own the duet 2 wifi V1.04
Why is this happening?
I've followed your guide, and i'm running into a weird problem. I get an error: Z probe already triggered before probing move started, when doing the G30 S-1. FYI, your video is the reason I took the plunge on this upgrade. Thanks!
To fix this, try running the command: M280 P3 S160 I1
Typically this happens when the machine is started with the nozzle touching the bed, and the probe can't fully deploy as it runs its self test on startup. If the red light on the BLTouch is blinking, this is the cause and solution.
Note: I didn't show all the work I did on camera, but I built macros to solve this issue and a couple others. If you want all of the files I made for this board to run this printer, follow the link in the description.
Thanks, I've done that but get the same result. Did you have to re-crimp the Yellow cable for the BL Touch?
FYI, the light is solid red, and the commands to retract and deploy work
Depending on whether or not you left the fan control section as default you should have the "j head fan" on the pins outs the other side if the part cooling fan. This is a PWM control but it is thermostatically controlled to come on over 45*c (defalt). It's no major issue but means the fan is not always on.
Yeah, that is a loud fan. I'll try to switch the wiring as you suggest.
A small mistake in her sketch is the plug for the hotend in port 2.
Everything else fine.
Now I have to see how to adjust the extruder with the board.
How are you adding files from your slicers to the web interface I'm still having issues with that I got my printer at the same point as yours except I have motor dampers a rgb LEDs in extrusions
Hi Andrew. In the web interface on the left side menu click on "Gcode files" Then click the button on the top right "Upload G-Code file(s)." After it uploads, double click the file in the list, and print it. To get rid of the file, simply right click and select "delete."
@@DesignPrototypeTest yes I got that can you make a video of getting them from the slicer go to the duet
Ok.
Great instruction!
You insert a G29 command but you talk also about a G32 command at 17:53. Can you elaborate? Thanks a lot!
I‘m not sure what the exact difference is between G29 and G32.
G32 measures 4 points, and calculates a plane. G29 measures as many points as you specify and models an undulating surface. More information at the 3D Printer GCode Bible: reprap.org/wiki/G-code
@@DesignPrototypeTest Thanks a lot for your reply! Highly appreciated. :-)
Every nice
Have anyone check the STEP Calibration of the stepper Motors ? I mean for X Y Z. Not for the Extruder. @ Design Prototype Test can you please make at tutorial ? I have the problem that the nozzle always scrapes easily after a few layers.
Link to tool with wire edm jaws?
You. Are. A. Fucking. HERO! Thank you
When I press "home all" my motors grind to end stops. Endstops LEDs are on. I did use the configuration in this video.
Having the same issue. I fear he may have missed something rather important to tell us during this conversion, especially since the opticals are 3.3v
I have a feeling that something is amiss.
@ I have fixed the problem. Apparently, the screws on the carriage didn't touch sensor of the endstop. I have fixed that.
@@steveredstone1711 aye, I wish I could say the same. Mine are equally adjusted and do trigger the stops when I move the head up manually, but the moment I send a home command, it rams into it like the Juggernaut.
Maybe I can help you if I can contact you.
I brought a duet because of all the trouble I had with the original MKS subbase and need some help in a few connections.
I have a label that reads “Heater 1” and another label that reads “Heater 2” on my TLM, can you or someone else explain where these connect on a Duet3D Wi-Fi Board. Also I have a label “Cooling Fan 1” and a label “Cooling Fan 2” that I need help with also.
Thanks in advance, Chris
Cooling fan 1 and 2 are the left and right blowers that cool the print. Heater 1 should be the nozzle. Heater 2 should be the Bed.
Please tell me where to buy it.
Is there a manufacturer?
Hey dude its 159.53 (on some config from other TLM users I've seen 160) steps per mm for all axes not 80 (80 is for x32 interpolation not for x16) , than the acceleration for extruder is 1500mm/s^2 and 5000mm/s^2 for all axis (6000 seen on other users configs) ,etc... I think the voltages for power resume should be 22v and 23v because those should be near normal 24v operating voltage. All those values above where deducted from the config file not guessed.
PS The M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000 script for power failure should be something like this M913 X50 Y50 Z50 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000 because this will cut current to steppers by 50% (with M913 X50 Y50 Z50) so they get more economicall but dont hang loose like with m913 x0 y0 on x and y axis cause of 0 current (on cartesian printers this is good but on deltas it isn't)
PS 2 Did some more digging and it seems that 80 steps per mm is the right value for x16 with interpolation to 256, my bad :P
PS 3 For print resume you need to run M916 command or make a macro with it cause that runs the ressurect config file which contains the instruction for resuming
would that works for predator ?
How did you measure the rod lengths to accurately get 397.19mm ? . . . I thought they were supposed to be 400mm ?
I had no way of measuring that length physically. They do sell extra long Calipers. aliexpress has some that I've considered purchasing for $65. Look for "SHAHE 600 mm Digital Vernier Calipers" I arrived at this length by trial and error. I set all other variables as accurately as I could and then I adjusted the rod length until it yielded the most accurate results on the printer. The process was more art than a science which is why I did not discuss it on camera.
At 7:35 what are the green screw bridges that hold up the duet board without having drill new holes?
Those are standoffs which I made in CAD and printed in ABS. They cleanly adapt the Duet board into the holes on the TLM.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Is there an STL file for them? I am trying to adapt a duet wifi to the mounting holes for an MKS Gen 1 board and these would probably do it.
Really got me out of a hole lol thanks man - I'm a Patreon now, stl files would be awesome if you can see my message ;)
You preparation a BLTouch Sensor for using it by 3,3 V. But i see that the Duet Board have Pins for 5V. Why you make that ?
With a very small screwdriver you can get the pins out of the plug and plug it in again. Then you do not have to turn the plugs anymore.
I have to turn the plugs because they are physically wider on one side relative to the holes for the pins By clipping off the bits of plastic the plugs now have the clearance necessary to connect onto the board in the slots meant for a different connector type.
Ok thanks for the fast answer. My board is ordered.
Do we really need 24 v to 12 things? We are using 240 watts here in Europe.
Watts=Amps*Volts. In Europe you have 240V AC Mains voltage. The power supply you are using converts this AC voltage into DC voltage. Whether or not you are using the printer in Europe or America a 12v power supply will supply the electronics of your printer with 12v DC. This is not enough juice to heat up a larger heated bed in a reasonable amount of time. Most 3D printers have PCB bed heaters which run off the same DC current as the rest of the electronics. In the case of this printer, it has an AC heated bed which is labeled "110V 300W" Therefore, the Power supply on the TLM must be taking the European mains voltage and chopping it in half so that the bed does not burn up.
24V DC is better than 12V for getting heated beds up to temperature. AC silicone bed heaters are the best. In the case of the TLM with the AC bed I suppose the electronics could just be 12v and it would work fine. Unless you put an E3D super volcano hot end on it. At that point the 24V quickly heating the Hot end might become necessary.
I cant get mine to work. All the stepper motors light are on, and my web interface is offline. Duet forums are impossible to add an account to coz of their error captcha so i can't get support for my original duet2 wifi either. IT SUCKS!
I don't have those config files. Where can I find them?
www.patreon.com/join/designprototypetest?
can i get the firmware files?
have just installed a duet 2 board but every time I restart the printer it loses zero and I have to reclibrate again, anyone got any clues as to how and permanently save true zero?
so doesn't seem to matter if I restart or not G0 Z0 just brings the nozzle to about 3mm above the plate even though I reset zero with G92 Z0.
never mind I sorted it
To anyone wondering like i was. Homing resets the z height and breaks the zero you gave it.
So... Will you share the files for free or is this really a ploy to make me sign up for your patrean?
Hi BurninGems. It sees like you feel justified in asking me to give you the fruit of my labor for absolutely nothing in return. This is a very self entitled attitude to have. I looked it up and this video has earned me $131.62 in ad revenue since I uploaded it. Given that I spent about 30 hours to make the video, that means that I earned about $4 per hour to provide you with this free information. Now you want me to spend more of my time to post the files in a public location so that I can give them to you for free? I have spent my life getting the skills/experience necessary to make a project like this, and you do not possess those skills, it seems only fair that you should compensate me for the value I added. If I had been paid a living/fair wage for the time it took to make this video I might be inclined to give, but as it stands these files are reserved as a thank you and exclusive benefit for those helpful humans who actually want me and my channel to succeed. I give any an all files to my $5 patreon supporters. I'm not selling files. I'm trying to make this TH-cam venture a success.
@@DesignPrototypeTest well, at least that is now in the clear. I saw multiple folks ask and just constantly pushed to patrean. No problem, Thank you for a free reply, good day.
I'm beginning to feel like you missed something very important.
For starters, I think your TLM has a totally different OEM harness, my endstops don't have colour coded wires, came from the factory that way and on the matter of endstops, they don't work.
Yes they're energized and yes when I manually trigger them, I can see that they are interrupting power to that respective axis. But when I go to home the printer, the head moves up a few then starts grinding as if it hit something or will ram into the top if close enough.
Did you ever find a solution?
@@tokeraabjerg1835 t'was a combo of a bad board (step drivers were ignoring the endstop triggers for some reason. A strange way for a board to fail) and the endstops just not being programed properly through the configurator.
The board has since been replaced and the wiring sorted out. If your board is good (assuming it is) it's a matter of playing around with the wiring. Try to understand the pinouts for both boards and the endstops then, if you have to, make your own harness for them.
Great video, great board but I will not go for Duet just because crimping wires with all these tools is not my game and that is to say the least. I enjoy DIY work but not crimping wires.
Really? Such a little thing will stop you?
Sorry to say so but yes. too much hassle for me. what can I do if this is how i feel? I will check again how much needs to be cut and crimped but i don't like this.
I don't have a config.g and half the file you have?
I don't see how this is possible. I suggest you ask for help over on the Duet forum: forum.duet3d.com/
my sd card was blank, but found all the files I needed in a FB group, at which point the sd card reader on my duet board decided it would no longer hold the sd card in place or even detect the card anymore. so am now trying to sort that. bloody Murphy's law.
ever notice your intro sounds similar to the one that ExplainingComputer uses.
They are both 8-bit "chiptunes" compositions. I composed mine on a classic DMG gameboy: th-cam.com/video/QORzTGd875k/w-d-xo.html
Love the video, i also want to install duet in my TLM. If i give you a one time donation can I please have all the digital files with respect to the duet and stl's please?
anyone still checking messages on here? i know the video isn't new, but i really need these files. Happy to pay a one time fee, i just don't want monthly fees.
th-cam.com/users/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Fbit.ly%2F2uyR9vl&v=BgkJVgFnPaE&event=video_description&redir_token=avXTzmybB5ZKgj3v38psbHb7yxl8MTU0NTU4Mjk4OEAxNTQ1NDk2NTg4
I hope a dingo didn't eat your baby and that it is all fake. (config.g 19:42)
Only trying to be helpful but I'm not sure I got your attention. Will try again one last time. #punamenon_2.4
haha your wifi pass is dingoatemybaby?
*was
but yeah.
I'm getting
Warning: Skipping grid point (-45.0, -135.0) because Z probe cannot reach it
Warning: Skipping grid point (0.0, -135.0) because Z probe cannot reach it
Warning: Skipping grid point (45.0, -135.0) because Z probe cannot reach it
I did everything according to this video.
Same. I think in my case its because the front of the bed is so much higher/lower that the z probe errors out. If you zero your nozzle in the dead centre of the bed check the nozzle height at the outer edges of tge bed when your z is still 0.... i dont think the bed is actually out but that the printer geometry, endstops or settings are...
Hi DPT I've Patreon message you for the files for TLM please check the message THS
Hi, I've responded to you Patreon message.