I'd give every penny I owned, or would ever own, for attending his long course.... A dream I've had for nearly 20 years. Though I've never met him, this man changed my woodworking life.
That is a nice upgrade to the regular straight jig.I really wish they would beef up the plastic bushings that slide on the bar.Something like bronze would be epic.Thanks for the heads up David.
Wonderful-! I have been waiting for such a jig. I also have the Jet behemoth- it is indeed cumbersome. It's great to see you here on TH-cam, especially since it may sadly be as close to Devon as I will be able to get. By the way, thank you for your kind and inspiring words a lil' while back-
Crunchified Don’t stay away from North Devon; David is the consummate teacher. He runs short courses year round. There is no finer way to spend a week in total immersion to the craft of hand tools.
David thank you for explaining this I just recently purchased a Tormek 4 couldn’t justify the cost of the 8. I do like it a lot. I was not aware of these settings on the guide, so this helps a lot. Now I have a question after you have used the Tormek do you still put a micro bevel on you irons?
I could wish that attorney could put some indices on the pivot so that it would give a slightly more precise adjustment that turns. Not that it’s a bad system by any means.
David do you retract the blade on your hand planes when you're finished using them? I'm new to hand planes and would appreciate your comment, thank you.
I can't answer for Charles, but take note of how his plane is propped up at one end. This is a common practice to protect the protruding edge of the iron and is advisable.
It appears that this jig requires the end-user to hand-craft a smooth parabolic shape onto he plane iron. That is to say, the guide repeatably and equally limits the degree to which the blade can rotate off-axis left-and-right, but it does not guide the user toward grinding the arc smoothly, or uniformly, is that right? If I could limit my blade movement off-axis on a dry grinder (say, with fences fixed onto the grinder's table/tool-rest) would that be substantially equivalent, or is the slow/wet nature of the Tormek essentially to grinding all the way to the edge without burning? Thank you David!
Karl, Not sure about that! I manage to get an excellent result, by simply moving my finger force from side to side. The effect I want is generally very small and the precise geometry not very important. Best wishes, David
Thank you for this video. I have an older Tormek Supergrind 2000 and bought this new version of their jig to sharpen my plane irons. I have not used the planes in a while, but have been inspired to rejoin their use in my woodworking (currently a large project using hard maple). I have on order a Lie-Nielsen #62 low angle jack plane that I want to use specifically in this project for putting a good surface on the face frame 3/4" exposed edges and removing any saw marks, like a smoothing plane, I suppose. Do you recommend clambering the blades when doing that with this plane? There is some significant waviness in the grain and tearout has been an issue-I was thinking of using a 38 degree bevel, per LN's recommendation. So- cambered blade or straight for this?
Hi David, been using your ruler trick for years - but now making violins. How the blazes do get a reliable repetitive edge on a curved violin thumb plane? A lacuna of info on the web. Tks
Your instruction is both pleasant to listen to and clearly presented. Would you please share the model and source of your small brass mallet? Id' like to get one just like it.
Keith Walton so that’s your assessment of the expertise provided here? Recall Teddy Roosevelt’s essay: “It’s not the critic who counts...”. Google it if you’re curious.
Great video Davis, the question I have is if you find that the chisel is registering on the collar, but the grind is slightly off square, it is trial and error with the two adjustment screws to align the chisel and grind square?
Very old question, so just leaving reply for the benefit of others. There is a line on the side opposite of the sharpening side. Making sure the line on the two moving surfaces aligns is what tells you the thing is square. If everything else is properly true/square, this should take you to initial position
Hi David, I have your planing video and have really benefitted from you instruction. However, as in this video you mention an extreme camber for low angled planes (e.g. low angled block plane). What would this radius work out to be - 8" for example? regards Alistair
Very simply, with an Eclipse type guide on a water stone. In fact I use two. 800 stone to get a small wire edge and 10,000 stone to polish cutting edge. Best wishes, David
I would have thought it preferable to have a jig that can pivot the blade from a point in line with the axis of the blade - like a simple pendulum. That would allow the EDGE of the blade to rotate through a circle centered at that pivot point. This jig pivots from a point a few inches off axis from the blade. The entire blade thus rotates around the circumference of a circle centered at that pivot point - like a toy airplane on a string. This means the edge of the blade follows a path that takes it alternately closer to and farther from the average contact point on the wheel. Surely there must be some operator finesse involved in avoiding an off-center camber?
Bob, Do you have this jig to look at? You will see that the right hand bearing, (for the bar) is directly below the centre mark. Blades must be set up centred on the mark, and will then pivot about this point. The two small screws control the amount of movement, left and right. And the result is symmetrical. Best, David
David Charlesworth So it is. I was conflating the right-hand blade-squaring ledge (which one does not use for chambering purposes) with the jig’s pivot point! Thank you - as always - for opening my eyes.
David Charlesworth That was a sneaky way to ask if I caved in and bought a Tormek. I confess: it arrived this week. I’m happily creating a dedicated space for it in my garage shop. A splurge, for sure. There is just something about excellence in tool design that draws me. Now, of course, I need to make sure that I plane enough wood that I need to resharpen my blade edges frequently enough that I then need to regrind them with some regularity. I almost bought it from Axminster in honor of you, but they only sell it with 230V 50 Hz - no good for California.
Can you tell me, do you camber all of your planes? I realize a smoother maybe be more important that others, but what other planes do you camber the blades?
My friend Chris Schwarz, suggests that all planes have some camber (except rebate and shoulder). A lot for a scrub plane and progressively less for the other planes, till we get to smoother with practically none. I managed all my career with a 5 1/2, as I had good machinery, so not a specialist in this area!
Hello David, i wonder if you grind camber of your blade, how you hone it afterwards? I have seen your sharpening DVDs, but there you always address flat plane iron. So i dont know how to use my Tormek T8 with my japanese water stones. Thank You for your help and be save
Petr, I think you will find that I do demonstrate cambered sharpening on my "Plane Sharpening DVD." I use 5 finger positions across the blade with an Eclipse guide, on an 800g stone. This gets small wire edge. Then tip up 2 degrees and polish in the same 5 positions. Then remove burr with ruler trick on polishing stone. Hope this works for you. David
@@DavidCharlesworth So basically Tormek for you only substitutes two 0.2mm strips which create the camber and 5 finger position (4x, 2x, 0x, 2x, 4x) on an 800 stone? Then we can just polish it like you described above? Becase I wondered why are you so pleased with the Tormek jig, when you are able to create camber on a new blade using stones in 5 minutes :) Thank You very much for your answer, you are the best
Robert, It depends what camber I am looking for. I can either use the Odate plate or an 800 grit Waterstone to get a wire edge. My polishing is done on a 10 or 15 thousand grit Waterstone. Best wishes, David
Kevin, The Tormek manual says metal removal may be faster with wheel coming towards user. You have to be careful not to get fingers trapped under bar! Best wishes, David
I'd give every penny I owned, or would ever own, for attending his long course.... A dream I've had for nearly 20 years. Though I've never met him, this man changed my woodworking life.
Hi David,
I’ve been a keen carpenter all my adult life albeit an amateur.
I very much like your videos.
David passed away a few months ago.
An excellent demonstration of a long awaited tool!
Thank you for sharing that with us David. Brilliant technique and I love hearing you speak -- a quintessential gentleman.
That is a nice upgrade to the regular straight jig.I really wish they would beef up the plastic bushings that slide on the bar.Something like bronze would be epic.Thanks for the heads up David.
Sir. You are indeed a genius I have just purchased aT8 with all jigs you always produce a good video on good ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Great commentary and demonstration! Thank you
The science of sharpening cambers explained perfectly
I love that little hammer, on your table, especially the handle.
Rachel, it was made for me by a friend. He said it was modeled on a toffee hammer. It is one of my favorite things.
David
Wonderful-! I have been waiting for such a jig. I also have the Jet behemoth- it is indeed cumbersome. It's great to see you here on TH-cam, especially since it may sadly be as close to Devon as I will be able to get.
By the way, thank you for your kind and inspiring words a lil' while back-
Crunchified Don’t stay away from North Devon; David is the consummate teacher. He runs short courses year round. There is no finer way to spend a week in total immersion to the craft of hand tools.
Fantastically clear explication of SE-77. Thank you! Subscribed.
Pura vida Don David I always enjoy your videos very informative and peaceful Rest in peace mi amigo pura vida
Thanks for explaining the jig David......will now check out the price for possible purchase.
Cheers from Aus
OMG, your voice sounds just like David Attenbourough! Great tutorial!
His voice sounds nothing at all like Attenborough to me, but the accent is similar.
Looking forward to trying this method. Thanks!
David thank you for explaining this I just recently purchased a Tormek 4 couldn’t justify the cost of the 8. I do like it a lot. I was not aware of these settings on the guide, so this helps a lot. Now I have a question after you have used the Tormek do you still put a micro bevel on you irons?
You should be the voice for National Geographic
I could wish that attorney could put some indices on the pivot so that it would give a slightly more precise adjustment that turns. Not that it’s a bad system by any means.
Very helpful, just bought one. Thank you.
David do you retract the blade on your hand planes when you're finished using them? I'm new to hand planes and would appreciate your comment, thank you.
I can't answer for Charles, but take note of how his plane is propped up at one end. This is a common practice to protect the protruding edge of the iron and is advisable.
Good Day David,
Thanks for another fine video. Do you camber all your plane blades? Would a bevel up plane benefit from a cambered blade?
Thanks,
Rob
Jack Hargreaves has returned. You are a pleasure to listen to, just like Jack in OUT OF TOWN.
It appears that this jig requires the end-user to hand-craft a smooth parabolic shape onto he plane iron. That is to say, the guide repeatably and equally limits the degree to which the blade can rotate off-axis left-and-right, but it does not guide the user toward grinding the arc smoothly, or uniformly, is that right?
If I could limit my blade movement off-axis on a dry grinder (say, with fences fixed onto the grinder's table/tool-rest) would that be substantially equivalent, or is the slow/wet nature of the Tormek essentially to grinding all the way to the edge without burning?
Thank you David!
Karl,
Not sure about that!
I manage to get an excellent result, by simply moving my finger force from side to side. The effect I want is generally very small and the precise geometry not very important.
Best wishes,
David
Thank you for this video. I have an older Tormek Supergrind 2000 and bought this new version of their jig to sharpen my plane irons. I have not used the planes in a while, but have been inspired to rejoin their use in my woodworking (currently a large project using hard maple). I have on order a Lie-Nielsen #62 low angle jack plane that I want to use specifically in this project for putting a good surface on the face frame 3/4" exposed edges and removing any saw marks, like a smoothing plane, I suppose. Do you recommend clambering the blades when doing that with this plane? There is some significant waviness in the grain and tearout has been an issue-I was thinking of using a 38 degree bevel, per LN's recommendation. So- cambered blade or straight for this?
Hi David, been using your ruler trick for years - but now making violins. How the blazes do get a reliable repetitive edge on a curved violin thumb plane? A lacuna of info on the web. Tks
Your instruction is both pleasant to listen to and clearly presented. Would you please share the model and source of your small brass mallet? Id' like to get one just like it.
dakotamax2 On another video I heard David say a friend had made it for him.
Really? I find his breathing and mouth noises to be extremely unpleasant. The lapel mic is this guys worst enemy.
Keith Walton so that’s your assessment of the expertise provided here? Recall Teddy Roosevelt’s essay: “It’s not the critic who counts...”. Google it if you’re curious.
@@Keithmwalton So agree
Great video Davis, the question I have is if you find that the chisel is registering on the collar, but the grind is slightly off square, it is trial and error with the two adjustment screws to align the chisel and grind square?
Patrick,
Thank you. Yes, that will adjust squareness.
David
Very old question, so just leaving reply for the benefit of others. There is a line on the side opposite of the sharpening side. Making sure the line on the two moving surfaces aligns is what tells you the thing is square. If everything else is properly true/square, this should take you to initial position
Very good! Thank you.
thank your for the enlightenment
Hi David, I have your planing video and have really benefitted from you instruction. However, as in this video you mention an extreme camber for low angled planes (e.g. low angled block plane). What would this radius work out to be - 8" for example? regards Alistair
It would depend on how far the tool is sticking out of the holder. More tool stick out, the larger the radius.
Woodworking Jesus 👍
Great idea and easy to setup and use but how do you put on a secondery bevel?
Very simply, with an Eclipse type guide on a water stone.
In fact I use two.
800 stone to get a small wire edge and 10,000 stone to polish cutting edge.
Best wishes,
David
For some reason, when tightening the F jig holder it moves slightly and I need to adjust the jig slightly to square the chisel.
I would have thought it preferable to have a jig that can pivot the blade from a point in line with the axis of the blade - like a simple pendulum. That would allow the EDGE of the blade to rotate through a circle centered at that pivot point. This jig pivots from a point a few inches off axis from the blade. The entire blade thus rotates around the circumference of a circle centered at that pivot point - like a toy airplane on a string. This means the edge of the blade follows a path that takes it alternately closer to and farther from the average contact point on the wheel. Surely there must be some operator finesse involved in avoiding an off-center camber?
Bob,
Greetings.
All I can say is that it worked well for me first time.
Best wishes, David
David Charlesworth that is the operator finesse I was referring to! Cheers to you.
Bob,
Do you have this jig to look at?
You will see that the right hand bearing, (for the bar) is directly below the centre mark.
Blades must be set up centred on the mark, and will then pivot about this point.
The two small screws control the amount of movement, left and right.
And the result is symmetrical.
Best, David
David Charlesworth So it is. I was conflating the right-hand blade-squaring ledge (which one does not use for chambering purposes) with the jig’s pivot point! Thank you - as always - for opening my eyes.
David Charlesworth That was a sneaky way to ask if I caved in and bought a Tormek. I confess: it arrived this week. I’m happily creating a dedicated space for it in my garage shop. A splurge, for sure. There is just something about excellence in tool design that draws me. Now, of course, I need to make sure that I plane enough wood that I need to resharpen my blade edges frequently enough that I then need to regrind them with some regularity.
I almost bought it from Axminster in honor of you, but they only sell it with 230V 50 Hz - no good for California.
Can you tell me, do you camber all of your planes? I realize a smoother maybe be more important that others, but what other planes do you camber the blades?
My friend Chris Schwarz, suggests that all planes have some camber (except rebate and shoulder). A lot for a scrub plane and progressively less for the other planes, till we get to smoother with practically none.
I managed all my career with a 5 1/2, as I had good machinery, so not a specialist in this area!
Hello David, i wonder if you grind camber of your blade, how you hone it afterwards? I have seen your sharpening DVDs, but there you always address flat plane iron. So i dont know how to use my Tormek T8 with my japanese water stones. Thank You for your help and be save
Petr,
I think you will find that I do demonstrate cambered sharpening on my "Plane Sharpening DVD." I use 5 finger positions across the blade with an Eclipse guide, on an 800g stone. This gets small wire edge. Then tip up 2 degrees and polish in the same 5 positions. Then remove burr with ruler trick on polishing stone. Hope this works for you.
David
@@DavidCharlesworth So basically Tormek for you only substitutes two 0.2mm strips which create the camber and 5 finger position (4x, 2x, 0x, 2x, 4x) on an 800 stone? Then we can just polish it like you described above? Becase I wondered why are you so pleased with the Tormek jig, when you are able to create camber on a new blade using stones in 5 minutes :) Thank You very much for your answer, you are the best
David, after grinding on the Tormek will you do honing using the Odate crowning plates with your water stones?--thanks
Robert,
It depends what camber I am looking for.
I can either use the Odate plate or an 800 grit Waterstone to get a wire edge.
My polishing is done on a 10 or 15 thousand grit Waterstone.
Best wishes,
David
Thank you David, Happy New Year
Is it normal for the wheel come towards you? I thought it was safer to move away from you.
Kevin,
The Tormek manual says metal removal may be faster with wheel coming towards user.
You have to be careful not to get fingers trapped under bar!
Best wishes, David
gotta love those nails
Thanks!
Is it like running a marathon?😥
you need to start putting "ASMR" in your tags
8:16 ....régler contre un ressort, ce n'est pas de la précision !