Just found your videos and I must say I am enjoying how you teach and fully explain / show exactly what you are discussing, not in a hurry like many others, thank you so very much!
I’m unaware of any other TH-camrs who devote such serious attention to chipbreaker preparation. I totally trust that David is NOT making a Mountain Out Of A Molehill with respect to this matter!
David, i know you passed away in May 2022, but i wanted to express my thanks for your all your valuable teachings. I followed the advice from this video and i now have my grandfathers no4 performing bequtifully. May you rest in peace
This man changed my woodworking, and to a great degree, changed my life when I found his first video. A master; a treasure - I hope to shake his hand someday and thank him.
Sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
I believe I just found out the major problem I was having with my shavings getting clogged between the blade and the iron ! Thank you so much. Great video by the way.
Hooray! Turns out my flea market find, old but never used, had a horribly rounded front edge on the chipbreaker. I never knew how important it was until this video. Details matter. Thanks for the videos and clearly expressed info.
Hello professor Charlesworth. Thank you so much for all your knowledge. My big hope is that you and your beloved ones are well and safe. My best wishes from Spain. Julio
Now this a gentleman that makes me proud to be British, his kind is sadly becoming rare... I can imagine him (not that he's nearly old enough mind you, maybe his father!) breaking the enigma code, helping design the bouncing bomb, Cutting mosquito wing ribs with just a chisel lol.. etc:) - Much respect!
This is a really elegant solution to a very frustrating problem. Thank you for sharing. I wanted to make a wood support for the back edge of my chip breaker, as you did, 3 mm lower than my diamond stone. What worked very well was to first cut a block the exact height of my stone. Then I cut off the the exact width of my saw blade from the block. Since the usual table saw blade is 1/8" or 3 mm, this worked very well to dial in the exact measurements you recommend.
Many thanks! Newcomer to your channel, very much appreciate your content and lovely style. The chipbreaker instructions are a huge help as I aspire to the next level of plane tuning. All the best for the New Year from rural Washington State US.
Excellent as always David. I was on one of your sharpening course a few years ago and it was a fabulous week. My sharpening skills improved ten fold and I learnt so many other things too. Take care in this troubled time, Mike from Ludlow.
David, Do you have a dedicated woodshop that is a separate building on your property? Or do you use your garage with all your woodworking equipment in it?
thank you very much for this superb clear explanation and demonstration. i always have the issue of powdery/dust coming along with the shaving. Kindly advise.
Hard to say, some dust might be normal. Most likely reason is your cutting blade is not sharp enough so microscopic gaps in the cutting blade are preventing a clean shaving.
So glad I stumbled across this. It seems to have been posted just today. I have your DVD (the first version), but it's very convenient to store this video clip in my Charlesworth playlist here. Time for me to have another look at the two Hock chip breakers I didn't yet own when I was in your workshop last year. I know I worked them from the notes I made last year, but a double-check never hurts (especially in light of last week's SMC conversation about the Japanese research). As I have no diamond stones, I'll need to cautiously use the Nortons for the 1-1/2º work. Would you suggest 1000 and 8000 for the softer steel? (The 1000 is my "800.") David, for those woodworkers who listen, you provide all the insight necessary to develop and maintain the habits that ensure precision work. Your tireless and comprehensive approach will stand as a constant reference for us all. All day today I was singing your praises in my shop as I trimmed off a precise 0.067" from each edge of a 22" x 36" x 7/8" cherry door, in order to make room for Brusso knife hinges. The 5-1/2 super smoother I set up last spring using your methodical steps performed beautifully. I took perhaps a hundred full-length, full-width 0.003" shavings until the gauge lines were nearly gone, and then predictably dialed back and took off the remaining couple of one-thou shavings. Every time I checked it was still in square! Loved that. I could still hear your voice in my ears coaching me to drive the stroke through the body with elbow locked, and keep the plane pressed into the work all the way through to the end. I have a small callus on my left thumb just from today's work! I'd say I made no more than six less-than-perfect shavings. Amazing. Thank you for putting this skill in my hands. Knowing what to expect with a tool and then getting it is pure joy. BTW, I cut my first practice through dovetail the other day in 1/2" plywood, so that's the next frontier. Your latest video is taking root!
V good, but how would his chip breaker interact with bevel down plane with a reverse back bevel of 10•degrees(on the upper face). Ie; a York blade angle of 55•degree on a traditional 45•degree frog. (Ref. The trick of grinding the top of a bevel down plane blade tip to a 10•degree angle to create the York pitch) 📐I believe “his” technique for the chip breaker preparation would not work with Yorker blade in this style.
What's your opinion on a curved chip braker? My Stanley #4 (Made in India) has a curved one. I'm new at woodworking and your making me realize how bad the plane came from the factory. I'm having a big headache with it because I can't plane straight all across the plane. Also learning a lot. Thank you for the detailed video.
I think the same rules apply. All my planes have curved chip breakers and I use a similar process. But I honestly don't measure like he does I just eyeball it.
I just bought a lie-Nielsen jointer plane (No.7). Do I really need to prepare the chipbreaker? They say they come ready to use, are ground at a 2-degree angle, and I haven’t seen many people modifying Lie-Nielsen planes out of the box.
Peter, I have spent over 45 years using this method, on chipbreakers from all manufacturers. Any error of fit to the blade will cause choking. There must be no trace of squareness or roughness at the edge. A tiny 45 degree bevel will help. It may not be necessary for you to do this work, it depends on how you use the plane. best wishes, David
@@davidcharlesworth6354 thank you David. I apologize, I was referring to the angle on the bottom of the chip breaker. Lie-Nielsen grinds a 1 to 2 degree angle on the bottom of the lip. I noticed you also add a 1.5 degree angle. Is this because the ruler trick increases the back bevel of the blade, which makes it necessary to increase the bevel angle on the bottom of the chip breaker? Or is this 1-2 degree angle Lie-Nielsen imposes sufficient?
Hello David, just found your channel after watching Rob Cosman’s. Very interesting, hope your keeping well. Do you ever use a leather strop? Sorry David, you’ve probably no idea who I am, it’s Rob Conibear, ex Ford Hill Forge.
People speak about him paying a lot of attention to details. Well, that's the thing, he probably doesn't see those things as details, simply as part of the proper process. If you want perfection, there no such thing as a detail. Everything is just as vital as anything else.
He was such a sweet soul. His voice was so calming.
Just found your videos and I must say I am enjoying how you teach and fully explain / show exactly what you are discussing, not in a hurry like many others, thank you so very much!
I’m unaware of any other TH-camrs who devote such serious attention to chipbreaker preparation. I totally trust that David is NOT making a Mountain Out Of A Molehill with respect to this matter!
David, i know you passed away in May 2022, but i wanted to express my thanks for your all your valuable teachings. I followed the advice from this video and i now have my grandfathers no4 performing bequtifully.
May you rest in peace
RIP David a wealth of knowledge imparted in such a human way.... thankyou
Rip David thank you 🙏 for all the knowledge 💚🙏💯👊
This man changed my woodworking, and to a great degree, changed my life when I found his first video. A master; a treasure - I hope to shake his hand someday and thank him.
Take his course. You'll keep changing. Go Army. My son is a 12 Bravo.
Sorry to be so off topic but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me!
@Keegan Khalid instablaster ;)
So generous of you to post this David! Thank you so much.
I wish we had more time with you sir! May you rest in peace!
I believe I just found out the major problem I was having with my shavings getting clogged between the blade and the iron ! Thank you so much. Great video by the way.
Such unbelievable attention to detail. I am an attention-to-detail kind of guy, but David makes me feel like I am missing half of everything!
You're only missing it for now. Listen again and practice it, and you'll make it your process, and then you'll have it forever.
David is a consummate professional. Videos always so informative. Many thanks.
Hooray! Turns out my flea market find, old but never used, had a horribly rounded front edge on the chipbreaker. I never knew how important it was until this video. Details matter. Thanks for the videos and clearly expressed info.
Hello professor Charlesworth. Thank you so much for all your knowledge. My big hope is that you and your beloved ones are well and safe. My best wishes from Spain.
Julio
Now this a gentleman that makes me proud to be British, his kind is sadly becoming rare... I can imagine him (not that he's nearly old enough mind you, maybe his father!) breaking the enigma code, helping design the bouncing bomb, Cutting mosquito wing ribs with just a chisel lol.. etc:) - Much respect!
As it happens my aunt worked at Bletchley park during the war.
Best wishes David
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Mr. Charlesworth, you are a legend!
This is a really elegant solution to a very frustrating problem. Thank you for sharing.
I wanted to make a wood support for the back edge of my chip breaker, as you did, 3 mm lower than my diamond stone. What worked very well was to first cut a block the exact height of my stone. Then I cut off the the exact width of my saw blade from the block. Since the usual table saw blade is 1/8" or 3 mm, this worked very well to dial in the exact measurements you recommend.
I have most all of your DVDs. They are all invaluable! Hope you are well Mr. Charlesworth.
This is a great video. Thanks for posting it!
Many thanks! Newcomer to your channel, very much appreciate your content and lovely style. The chipbreaker instructions are a huge help as I aspire to the next level of plane tuning. All the best for the New Year from rural Washington State US.
Excellent as always David. I was on one of your sharpening course a few years ago and it was a fabulous week. My sharpening skills improved ten fold and I learnt so many other things too. Take care in this troubled time, Mike from Ludlow.
Thank you sir. Words of wisdom, as always.
David the best teacher for me🔝🤗
I love your videos! Thank you for sharing your wealth of critical knowledge and experience.
Missed you David, hope you have been well. Keep safe.
David, Do you have a dedicated woodshop that is a separate building on your property? Or do you use your garage with all your woodworking equipment in it?
Brilliant! I'm new to hand planes and your video is so helpful. Your measured pace allowed me to follow with ease. Thank you!
Thankyou so much Sir for your very useful information 🙏
thank you very much for this superb clear explanation and demonstration. i always have the issue of powdery/dust coming along with the shaving. Kindly advise.
Hard to say, some dust might be normal. Most likely reason is your cutting blade is not sharp enough so microscopic gaps in the cutting blade are preventing a clean shaving.
So nice to hear from you. Please visit more often...
Thank you for another fascinating video
I have his DVD series....brilliant...RIP
Just curious, why isn't it considered good practice to sharpen at your bench?
does anyone know which are the two grades are on the DMT Duosharps? I'm guessing Fine and Extra Fine?
Yes. Red and green colors for DMT duosharp is fine and extra-fine.
Hi David see you're in North Devon, shout out from Cornwall #jamfirst.
So glad I stumbled across this. It seems to have been posted just today. I have your DVD (the first version), but it's very convenient to store this video clip in my Charlesworth playlist here. Time for me to have another look at the two Hock chip breakers I didn't yet own when I was in your workshop last year. I know I worked them from the notes I made last year, but a double-check never hurts (especially in light of last week's SMC conversation about the Japanese research). As I have no diamond stones, I'll need to cautiously use the Nortons for the 1-1/2º work. Would you suggest 1000 and 8000 for the softer steel? (The 1000 is my "800.")
David, for those woodworkers who listen, you provide all the insight necessary to develop and maintain the habits that ensure precision work. Your tireless and comprehensive approach will stand as a constant reference for us all. All day today I was singing your praises in my shop as I trimmed off a precise 0.067" from each edge of a 22" x 36" x 7/8" cherry door, in order to make room for Brusso knife hinges. The 5-1/2 super smoother I set up last spring using your methodical steps performed beautifully. I took perhaps a hundred full-length, full-width 0.003" shavings until the gauge lines were nearly gone, and then predictably dialed back and took off the remaining couple of one-thou shavings. Every time I checked it was still in square! Loved that.
I could still hear your voice in my ears coaching me to drive the stroke through the body with elbow locked, and keep the plane pressed into the work all the way through to the end. I have a small callus on my left thumb just from today's work! I'd say I made no more than six less-than-perfect shavings. Amazing. Thank you for putting this skill in my hands. Knowing what to expect with a tool and then getting it is pure joy.
BTW, I cut my first practice through dovetail the other day in 1/2" plywood, so that's the next frontier. Your latest video is taking root!
V good, but how would his chip breaker interact with bevel down plane with a reverse back bevel of 10•degrees(on the upper face). Ie; a York blade angle of 55•degree on a traditional 45•degree frog.
(Ref. The trick of grinding the top of a bevel down plane blade tip to a 10•degree angle to create the York pitch)
📐I believe “his” technique for the chip breaker preparation would not work with Yorker blade in this style.
What's your opinion on a curved chip braker? My Stanley #4 (Made in India) has a curved one. I'm new at woodworking and your making me realize how bad the plane came from the factory. I'm having a big headache with it because I can't plane straight all across the plane. Also learning a lot.
Thank you for the detailed video.
I think the same rules apply. All my planes have curved chip breakers and I use a similar process. But I honestly don't measure like he does I just eyeball it.
I just bought a lie-Nielsen jointer plane (No.7). Do I really need to prepare the chipbreaker? They say they come ready to use, are ground at a 2-degree angle, and I haven’t seen many people modifying Lie-Nielsen planes out of the box.
Peter,
I have spent over 45 years using this method, on chipbreakers from all manufacturers. Any error of fit to the blade will cause choking. There must be no trace of squareness or roughness at the edge.
A tiny 45 degree bevel will help.
It may not be necessary for you to do this work, it depends on how you use the plane. best wishes, David
@@davidcharlesworth6354 thank you David. I apologize, I was referring to the angle on the bottom of the chip breaker. Lie-Nielsen grinds a 1 to 2 degree angle on the bottom of the lip. I noticed you also add a 1.5 degree angle. Is this because the ruler trick increases the back bevel of the blade, which makes it necessary to increase the bevel angle on the bottom of the chip breaker? Or is this 1-2 degree angle Lie-Nielsen imposes sufficient?
You're using a bedrock plane. What do you do if you are using a bailey pattern plane?
Incredibly useful. That's another day of lock down taken care of.
Very good
Thanks mate, requiescat in pace.
Thank you. cant believe the difference, what a pleasure to use my plane without it jamming with shavings.
RIP David!
Hello David, just found your channel after watching Rob Cosman’s. Very interesting, hope your keeping well. Do you ever use a leather strop? Sorry David, you’ve probably no idea who I am, it’s Rob Conibear, ex Ford Hill Forge.
thank you my plane was crap before this!
“Perfection is a combination of little things done well” - Marco Pierre White.
RIP David
RIP 🙏🏽
Silvers Rayleigh
IRL 😎
I thought we British call it a Cap Iron .
Thumbs up and subscribe, my man
RIP
People speak about him paying a lot of attention to details. Well, that's the thing, he probably doesn't see those things as details, simply as part of the proper process.
If you want perfection, there no such thing as a detail. Everything is just as vital as anything else.
just curious what have you ever built ?nice studio background
RIP