Please make more videos man. Seriously these help a lot because not many people are making new good quality detailed videos on these bikes. Ur appreciated trust me
this guy actually thinks for himself... refreshing. Great job on this. I'm servicing a neighbors Savage that she just bought. Its got 10K miles but has been sitting in someone's basement for years. After LOTS of cleanup, it runs but backfires and loses power UNLESS I use half choke. Completely cleaned fuel tank, fresh gas, fresh gas filter, air filter, new plug, ran carb cleaner through it- same; runs with power but ONLY on choke. Looks like tearing down the carb is the next thing- this video is EXACTLY what I need. Thanks for making it.
That blocked off tube with the clamps, that was originally the vacuum tube that connects to the automatic fuel valve under the tank. The idea is that you always can have the fuel valve open on the bike, but only when the engine is running the valve opens due to underpressure caused by the engine sucking in fuel+air. A common mod is to replace the fuel tap under the tank with a manual tap with the usual on/reserve/off (it is a bit more reliable) and blocking said tube in the carb. I recently bought a Savage 650 as my second bike, it's my first bike with a carb in 16 years, so I've had to relearn a bunch of stuff I already had forgotten. But it is about 9000 times simpler to work on than my 'busa, which is nice.
Yes you are correct I forgot about that. I did the raptor petcock on the stock tank when I had it so the blocked tube was done a few years ago. Thanks for the reminder.
All 650 must know this 1 thing happened too me!!!Took driver side cover off/ inspect stator and put back and wouldnt turn over= no cranky anymore.. ..well the gear fell out and is spacer or washer should say- SHORT version .. The gasket was bad /so i used 650 degree red gasket maker .. i wasnt sure whick way gear went back in.... so five times i tried redo it and figured it out!
10k miles, upgraded pipe, and my well maintained 2011 S40 is spittin' flames, and scaring the sh%# out of my neighbors after letting someone "help" adjust it. I think the only upgrade so far is the Raptor petcock...I think it's time to follow your video ^^ Anyone else yelling at the screen to use the Hillman gauge right there just inches away? ^^
God shit man. I've been working on a full rebuild of an 01 savage. Top end rebuild, all bearings, brakes, clutch, wiring, etc... It's hard to find information on these bikes. Parts are pretty scarce, too. Appreciate you making this video. It will help me a lot when I tear the carb apart in a few days. I'm doing a similar setup with nearly open pipes and air filter right off the carb. I'm considering posting a video or two. Any and all information should be shared about these bikes. They're cool as hell and fun to ride in town. You can beat a lot of bikes light to light. Especially when stripped down and opened up.
Dude, I'm loving the videos. Please keep em coming. I've read a lot about this mod but I've never opened a carb before and all the info and photos I've seen have been a bit overwhelming to my simple, non mechanical mind .This vid showed me it's not (quite) brain surgery. Now I feel confident enough to have a crack at the white spacer mod. Thanks.
No problem. Just take pictures of it as you go so you alway have a default if something doesn't go quite right. The little screws in the bottom. Are definitely the hardest part.
Before changing the main jet: 1.) drill out brass plug covering air/fuel mixture screw 2.) put a couple washers or vinyl spacer on needle to increase space between jet and needle. this will stop pop on decel * if changing main jet, straight-through muffler and pod filter at the same time or backfire is likely
Also was going to add that if you grind that needle tip down at the tip, you can accomplish the same thing as with the spacers. You could chuck the needle in a drill and use a bench grinder and put more of a taper on it. You don't want it to be sharp, though. You'd need to reference with a pair of calipers and take off a little at a time. Your solution is actually good because it's adjustable. I never thought of doing that lol.
I picked up a ‘17 last year, my first season riding and put in over 10,000 kms in Canada. My brother picked up an ‘18 about a month ago for his first season. Thanks for the video, looking forward to hopefully seeing more on this bike from you.
I have another bike for long trips, but have been commuting on an LS650 for 15 years. I bought it new. I have been tuning and messing with these things for years. The only way I found to almost totally eliminate the backfire was to chunk everything but one factory washer and totally eliminate the plastic spacer. I went up a couple sizes on the main jet. This mod only gave me more power, to stop the backfire, I had to lean out the idle jet. I went way down on it. I think 47.5 is stock and I'm running a 42.5 now. Been running this combo for years. The spacer creates a lean condition at cruising speeds. At idle it's rich, and from mid rpms to wide open it's lean. The backfire on decel is caused by a momentary rich condition in the hot exhaust. Having a leaner pilot jet helps eliminate this. My bike doesn't overheat even in hot traffic. If you don't believe me, loosen your exhaust clamp and create a small leak, this will lean out the exhaust also and the backfire will go away. But don't leave it that way. Everyone I listened to on forums and videos sent me in the wrong direction. I thank this guy for making this video, not many do including me. Not trying to hijack this guys video, but I went to a chain conversion also. I tried 3 different set ups before I found the best for me. I don't like the factory gear ratio. Thanks again for taking the time to make the video, but from my experiences, it won't eliminate the backfire. But it will give you more acceleration and speed.
Yeah I'm sure there are alot of ways to do it and your way seems way more thought out and precise. But I can assure you that with everything currently on my bike it does not backfire on decel or when shutting the bike off. But I do appreciate all the kind words. It really makes all the extra work of making a video more worth it in the end.
@@joshmartin7924 Thanks, I forgot to mention that I am running a loud aftermarket exhaust. When I first put one on. It sounded like there was a gunfight going on. Yes, there are many factors to take into consideration. Altitude being one of them. Thanks again for making the video. You might want to consider re gearing the bike if you do anything besides city riding. Turns it into a whole new bike. You seem to be a very nice person, thanks again.
The majority of the "phillips" screws on the Savage and other Japanese motorcycles are actually "JIS" (Japanese Industrial Standard) fasteners, not phillips. This is why they get stripped easily. (wrong tool for the fastener)
FFS those small screws and all the others have JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) heads, NOT Philips!!! They're always identified by a dot next to the screwdriver slot. Buy the correct screwdriver and you'll avoid damaging the heads of the screws.
Isn't backfire from un-burnt fuel getting ignited in the exhaust manifold ?? People say its a lean mixture but it cant be lean .... the backfire IS un-burnt fuel that is ignited once it leaves the combustion chamber and ignites from the heat in the exhaust manifold ..
Well I would agree with you normally except with everything I fid to add more fuel eliminated the backfire. So I'm not sure what kind of voodoo goes on in the ls650
@@joshmartin7924 the backfire from a lean condition occurs when having less fuel in the mixture, thus it burns S L O W E R .... so as the ex valve opens to release, that combustion process is still going on so that event is literally happening while its being pushed out which causes the back fire. That back fire IS the combustion that should have happened in the chamber. The back fire from a rich condition is going from throttle to vacuum almost instant, but just a split second before that change, fuel was injected into the cylinder with no air, so that fuel does not combust in the chamber but will combust as it is pushed out by the piston and ignites from the hot ex manifold and giving you the back fire ...
I have one but the battery was dead. But you are correct it did bother me, and still does that during the time of this that I couldn't give accurate measurements. Just know that it bothers me as much as it does you.
I bought my 09 LS650 back in October of 23. Wasn’t running at all. A local motorcycle repair shop cleaned and adjusted the carb, but still surges, and bogs. Backfires so loud I’m afraid someone will start shooting at me.
I’d like to keep the bike stock. IMHO I tend to believe that Suzuki made this engine run as lean as possible most likely for emissions reasons. (hippies making things difficult as usual) It has the stock air filter and stock exhaust. If I could just get rid of annoying surging and backfiring I would be a happy camper.
Yes they are in expensive but this bike is a fun toy and not a daily computer so if I messed up the factory jets I would have bought new ones. So this was 100% ok for testing and it worked out great
As far as I see from some of the face book groups. Some guys are running a different style makuni or lectron. As far as a stock savage one it will only be used I imagine. Could always check ebay.
Please let everybody know that you need to use a JIS screwdriver tip on Japanese screws. Much easier, no ruined screw heads.
Very very good comment. Those brass screws are too easy to strip on older carburetors.
Please make more videos man. Seriously these help a lot because not many people are making new good quality detailed videos on these bikes. Ur appreciated trust me
this guy actually thinks for himself... refreshing. Great job on this. I'm servicing a neighbors Savage that she just bought. Its got 10K miles but has been sitting in someone's basement for years. After LOTS of cleanup, it runs but backfires and loses power UNLESS I use half choke. Completely cleaned fuel tank, fresh gas, fresh gas filter, air filter, new plug, ran carb cleaner through it- same; runs with power but ONLY on choke. Looks like tearing down the carb is the next thing- this video is EXACTLY what I need. Thanks for making it.
That blocked off tube with the clamps, that was originally the vacuum tube that connects to the automatic fuel valve under the tank. The idea is that you always can have the fuel valve open on the bike, but only when the engine is running the valve opens due to underpressure caused by the engine sucking in fuel+air. A common mod is to replace the fuel tap under the tank with a manual tap with the usual on/reserve/off (it is a bit more reliable) and blocking said tube in the carb. I recently bought a Savage 650 as my second bike, it's my first bike with a carb in 16 years, so I've had to relearn a bunch of stuff I already had forgotten. But it is about 9000 times simpler to work on than my 'busa, which is nice.
Yes you are correct I forgot about that. I did the raptor petcock on the stock tank when I had it so the blocked tube was done a few years ago. Thanks for the reminder.
All 650 must know this 1 thing happened too me!!!Took driver side cover off/ inspect stator and put back and wouldnt turn over= no cranky anymore.. ..well the gear fell out and is spacer or washer should say- SHORT version .. The gasket was bad /so i used 650 degree red gasket maker .. i wasnt sure whick way gear went back in.... so five times i tried redo it and figured it out!
10k miles, upgraded pipe, and my well maintained 2011 S40 is spittin' flames, and scaring the sh%# out of my neighbors after letting someone "help" adjust it. I think the only upgrade so far is the Raptor petcock...I think it's time to follow your video ^^ Anyone else yelling at the screen to use the Hillman gauge right there just inches away? ^^
God shit man. I've been working on a full rebuild of an 01 savage. Top end rebuild, all bearings, brakes, clutch, wiring, etc... It's hard to find information on these bikes. Parts are pretty scarce, too. Appreciate you making this video. It will help me a lot when I tear the carb apart in a few days. I'm doing a similar setup with nearly open pipes and air filter right off the carb. I'm considering posting a video or two. Any and all information should be shared about these bikes. They're cool as hell and fun to ride in town. You can beat a lot of bikes light to light. Especially when stripped down and opened up.
Dude, I'm loving the videos. Please keep em coming. I've read a lot about this mod but I've never opened a carb before and all the info and photos I've seen have been a bit overwhelming to my simple, non mechanical mind .This vid showed me it's not (quite) brain surgery. Now I feel confident enough to have a crack at the white spacer mod. Thanks.
No problem. Just take pictures of it as you go so you alway have a default if something doesn't go quite right. The little screws in the bottom. Are definitely the hardest part.
The screws aren't Philips head, they are J.I.S. (Japanese Industrial Standard) That's why many times we find stripped screws on Japanese motorcycles.
Before changing the main jet: 1.) drill out brass plug covering air/fuel mixture screw 2.) put a couple washers or vinyl spacer on needle to increase space between jet and needle. this will stop pop on decel
* if changing main jet, straight-through muffler and pod filter at the same time or backfire is likely
Also was going to add that if you grind that needle tip down at the tip, you can accomplish the same thing as with the spacers. You could chuck the needle in a drill and use a bench grinder and put more of a taper on it. You don't want it to be sharp, though. You'd need to reference with a pair of calipers and take off a little at a time. Your solution is actually good because it's adjustable. I never thought of doing that lol.
I picked up a ‘17 last year, my first season riding and put in over 10,000 kms in Canada. My brother picked up an ‘18 about a month ago for his first season. Thanks for the video, looking forward to hopefully seeing more on this bike from you.
I have another bike for long trips, but have been commuting on an LS650 for 15 years. I bought it new. I have been tuning and messing with these things for years. The only way I found to almost totally eliminate the backfire was to chunk everything but one factory washer and totally eliminate the plastic spacer. I went up a couple sizes on the main jet. This mod only gave me more power, to stop the backfire, I had to lean out the idle jet. I went way down on it. I think 47.5 is stock and I'm running a 42.5 now. Been running this combo for years. The spacer creates a lean condition at cruising speeds. At idle it's rich, and from mid rpms to wide open it's lean. The backfire on decel is caused by a momentary rich condition in the hot exhaust. Having a leaner pilot jet helps eliminate this. My bike doesn't overheat even in hot traffic. If you don't believe me, loosen your exhaust clamp and create a small leak, this will lean out the exhaust also and the backfire will go away. But don't leave it that way. Everyone I listened to on forums and videos sent me in the wrong direction. I thank this guy for making this video, not many do including me. Not trying to hijack this guys video, but I went to a chain conversion also. I tried 3 different set ups before I found the best for me. I don't like the factory gear ratio. Thanks again for taking the time to make the video, but from my experiences, it won't eliminate the backfire. But it will give you more acceleration and speed.
Yeah I'm sure there are alot of ways to do it and your way seems way more thought out and precise. But I can assure you that with everything currently on my bike it does not backfire on decel or when shutting the bike off. But I do appreciate all the kind words. It really makes all the extra work of making a video more worth it in the end.
@@joshmartin7924 Thanks, I forgot to mention that I am running a loud aftermarket exhaust. When I first put one on. It sounded like there was a gunfight going on. Yes, there are many factors to take into consideration. Altitude being one of them. Thanks again for making the video. You might want to consider re gearing the bike if you do anything besides city riding. Turns it into a whole new bike. You seem to be a very nice person, thanks again.
I love my backfire.
I kind of like my s40 backfires though. They add some character to the bike. :)
Yes, the backfires are one of the best part on the LS ;)
Backfires are bitchslapping the valve seats of the cylinder head on yer Zuki.
Not my backfire sounds like a gunshot. I need it gone asap lol
The majority of the "phillips" screws on the Savage and other Japanese motorcycles are actually "JIS" (Japanese Industrial Standard) fasteners, not phillips. This is why they get stripped easily. (wrong tool for the fastener)
Wow,! Mine is a 2000. Just hit 6000 miles. Always pops since I straight piped it. Seems I adjusted mine by adjusting a screw on the exhaust side.
FFS those small screws and all the others have JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) heads, NOT Philips!!! They're always identified by a dot next to the screwdriver slot. Buy the correct screwdriver and you'll avoid damaging the heads of the screws.
Isn't backfire from un-burnt fuel getting ignited in the exhaust manifold ??
People say its a lean mixture but it cant be lean .... the backfire IS un-burnt fuel that is ignited once it leaves the combustion chamber and ignites from the heat in the exhaust manifold ..
Well I would agree with you normally except with everything I fid to add more fuel eliminated the backfire. So I'm not sure what kind of voodoo goes on in the ls650
@@joshmartin7924 the backfire from a lean condition occurs when having less fuel in the mixture, thus it burns S L O W E R .... so as the ex valve opens to release, that combustion process is still going on so that event is literally happening while its being pushed out which causes the back fire. That back fire IS the combustion that should have happened in the chamber.
The back fire from a rich condition is going from throttle to vacuum almost instant, but just a split second before that change, fuel was injected into the cylinder with no air, so that fuel does not combust in the chamber but will combust as it is pushed out by the piston and ignites from the hot ex manifold and giving you the back fire ...
Ur right,it's the unburnt fuel/vapors igniting in the pipe
the backfire in this bike is bad for the motor??
Great video thanks! I need this carburator, whats its the model or where can i get one? Thank you! My bike its a 2006 suzuki boulevard s40
Mikuni BSM40 is the OEM carb, if memory serves. Performance alternative is Mikuni VM38
Thank so much! Blessings!!!
maybe spend 10 bucks and buy a cheap digital caliper? that way we could get real measurements, This is only helpful for rebuilding, not modding.
I have one but the battery was dead. But you are correct it did bother me, and still does that during the time of this that I couldn't give accurate measurements. Just know that it bothers me as much as it does you.
Thanks I was wondering how to stop the back firing I have a 2016 650 savage
Custom bobber wanted to show u couple pics but it won't let me
I do have a Instagram i should put a link somewhere
Where in pa are you located. I’m in York county, was thinking we could link and go over my carb.
I bought my 09 LS650 back in October of 23. Wasn’t running at all. A local motorcycle repair shop cleaned and adjusted the carb, but still surges, and bogs. Backfires so loud I’m afraid someone will start shooting at me.
Yeah i felt the same way. This spring i will try to start making new content. Just been riding and enjoying the bike since this build series.
I’d like to keep the bike stock. IMHO I tend to believe that Suzuki made this engine run as lean as possible most likely for emissions reasons. (hippies making things difficult as usual) It has the stock air filter and stock exhaust. If I could just get rid of annoying surging and backfiring I would be a happy camper.
Does the choke enrichen the fuel ratio? or does it lower the air? im not too sure for this model...
@manintheline5331 i would think it creats more of a vacume which would increase the fuel mixture.
Lovely❤❤❤
Mine is spewing fuel from the intake side, checked the float it seemed fine.
Have you checked the gasket? Mine broke once and it started leaking gas, so that could be it
I have same carb but mine will run at idle but soon I give little trottle she dies
Wash carb 2 times new Jets and still same 🤬🤬
Can you help me ???
When you run a bigger bit through hole you are raising the jet size to whatever bit is. Jets are cheap.....
Yes they are in expensive but this bike is a fun toy and not a daily computer so if I messed up the factory jets I would have bought new ones. So this was 100% ok for testing and it worked out great
@@joshmartin7924 not knocking what you did just scared to try it myself and have absolute junk after lmao
is there a fuel mixture screw to adjust the leanness of the fuel?
Yes. It hidden behind a small cover feom the factory.
Where can I get a new carburetor
As far as I see from some of the face book groups. Some guys are running a different style makuni or lectron. As far as a stock savage one it will only be used I imagine. Could always check ebay.
amazon. also could upgrade it and buy a different style
@@joshmartin7924 thanks
Sudco compton ca
What kind of carb is this?
This is the factory carb for the bike
Mikuni BS40SS. It's a CV carb. The SS version has that little TEV diaphragm on the right hand side.