I know I'm making a metric eff-ton of comments here as your video (and having just finished your MOST excellent 5 part foamboard construction series) have inspired me. I had heard of using fiberglass lamination with paint as a construction method, and seen some of the expensive laminated products made of foam or hex core materials, but not realized until your video, the 'build in place, then laminate, possibilities. I don't expect replies, just hope my musings help inspire experimentation by others to enhance the range of info a techniques available to those of us using and expanding on the "techniques and materials" knowledge base you have provided for us here. Love your truly kind and confident style of knowledge sharing, that is brought to us with wisdom, love, humor, and practically without ego. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Just found your channel! Layout Great!. You have built real neat features counter space 💥to name 1 of your build! Airlines use a type of foam type construction cuts weight think they use formica, interesting fact first ual planes used fine woods. Probably more industrial strength foam. your presentation, research & devl is best IMO I've seen. My new fav 😊. Thx. 🎉
By far the best Q&A I've ever watched on TH-cam. You failed, however, to provide a link to your choice of brew. (Kidding...) Can't wait to try and build something myself in my RV!
I came here looking for a few tips about the foam board technique - but I watched this all the way to the end for the entertainment value! ...love your style!
Never seen anyone answer so many questions so patiently and honestly despite how annoying so many of them clearly are! I watched the whole thing even after I decided I have no use for this particular method of construction! Well done!
I love your Q&A format (beers, cellos, roosters, and your wife's vocal cameo). Awesome info on the foam cabinet construction too! Thanks for great content.
@@falkornomad Thanks I realised that, just wanted you to know your old content is still helpful and appreciated, I hope that gave you some encouragement 🤞or at least made you smile.
LOVED how you responded to John trolling you, I hate when people are judgy towards others just based on appearance. He is here to learn about foam, not date you, so whether he finds you appealing or not is irrelevant. That being said, and with all due respect towards your wife and marriage, I think you're a cutie. You have a slightly rough masculine appeal going on but you're not dirty or scruffy like you don't take care of yourself; and it's combined with a good personality and outlook. Id be happy to find something like that lurking under my sofa one day but sadly I have a vacuum so I'm not holding my breath.
FYI the right kind of epoxy can be used directly on foam. And your screen is nylon but you can get it as fiberglass. Where when we normally say fiberglass we think woven fabric. Your videos are helping me a lot thank you
@@garethbaus5471 yes, but in some places it is considerably more expensive than the fabric is. The best way to find it (or the other kind, for that matter) cheap would be to find it in a listing on whatever your alternative to Craigslist is.
Wow, thanks! That’s a pretty big compliment for a 1:12:43 long video… that I almost didn’t post because TLDR. New foam build is done, tour posted and complete foam build system videos coming soon.
@@falkornomad Most people pay too much attention to cosmetics thus miss the value of the innovation. Half way through the new build video now. Keep it up!
Thank you so much for this incredibly useful information. Revived my interest in using this instead of baltic birch plywood. Dave Orton did wonderful bed panels out of foam and wood in his van conversion.
This type of composite isn't going to be anywhere close to as rigid or durable as baltic birch, or really any plywood, although it should be significantly lighter weight and if used correctly might still be rigid and strong enough. If you want a light weight alternative to plywood that has more comparable stiffness and strength you might end up needing to use more expensive materials like end grain balsa, and fiberglass.
@@garethbaus5471 I'd wager you might want to actually talk to someone who's had this in use for awhile to get a comparison, rather than just assuming you know it all. That lamination will make a massive difference. I've worked with multiple other types of laminate materials over the years, and the act of laminating one material with one quality with a second material with another quality will get you a material with both qualities.
You can find dozens of trick's and tips from the model airplane hobby! They have used foam to build models for decaded. I recommend visiting the National Model Aviation Museum in Muncie, IN. It is fun!
Your videos have definitely inspired me to do more research, so let me share some of my conclusions from what I've learned elsewhere. 1. You can use epoxy resin over XPS foam to make a stronger structure. So, you could use fiberglass, instead of screen to increase tensile strength, get a smoother finish, and through layers, you could plaster your maps over the fiberglass and under a transparent layer of epoxy to get the finish you were wanting with the maps. 2. Building a bed from foam (This is a project I'm hoping to tackle in six to eight months): - I'm planning to use modular boxes with drawers that interlock with removable inserts which use embedded magnets and tension to help hold these bowtie-shaped inserts in place. 2. Like a lightweight aircraft, I am planning to use a small amount of wood framing with 1/2" plywood strips to provide more tensile strength and attachment points for the drawer glides. I plan to route the edges to have tongues for a good glue surface to attach the foam. I'm going to use 1/2 inch foam and glue the panels from each side of these tongues to embed the frame in the XPS without complicating the attachment. Adhesive is stronger than the foam, and by laminating from both sides of the plywood frame, I can use steel wire between these layers to add more rigidity to the framing without additional wood and it's weight. - I'm planning to build one that does fold into a sofa bed, with this method. Each interlocking cabinet will be 18 inches tall and 26 inches wide and deep. So, if it can have a top that folds out an extra 25 inches of length, you get 76 inches surface, the standard length of twin and full mattresses. Additionally, two 26 inch cabinet's tied together gets me 52 inches of width, which is a couple inches shy of a full mattress width, close enough for a full fitted sheet to still fit, if the mattress foam is cut to fit these 52×76 inch dimensions. Although, I will oversize my cushion, so I will have a full size bed with both of these cabinets connected. -26×3=78, and a king mattress is 80 inches long and 76 inches wide, so if I ever wanted an even larger bed, I could simply add another cabinet. -if I use 27×76 segmented cushions, I could separate the boxes in sofa mode, and have each cabinet be a chair that can fold into a single cot. - I've been playing with these dimensions for years, built a version of these boxes out of plywood, and sold that a decade ago, because it was really heavy in the 3/4 inch plywood I used at the time. -I loved this concept, and your foam cabinet idea has given me a whole new approach to build these modular cot boxes, which will finally allow me to hit the weight and cost factors I couldn't with just plywood construction, years ago. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
Wow... those projects sound great! One general comment... I’m realizing that the foam is much stronger than I expected and that my units are likely overkill for the need. I mean it’s great that I CAN jump up and down on it... but do I really NEED to? I would encourage you to test less involved versions of your ideas first, knowing you can reinforce them if they are not strong enough.
Most informative, hilarious, entertaining Q&A vid ever! Thank you for all of this great info about the XPS foam & cabinetry - I only meant to watch a few mins, but i ended up watching the entire vid in one sitting!
A few helpful ideas(I hope), use a ratchet strap to hold the cabinets down, they are quick release and very strong. Teardrops n tiny travel trailers or tnttt.com and go to foamies, they have tons of foam ideas and experience. Lastly, maybe use a fillet out of liquid nail and screen for a stronger hold on the seams(idea from stitch & glue boats) also Duckworks ( boating supplies) has articles on foam boats that may be good ideas or tips.
I also have a friend who was in research and development of water-based house paint ... and he told me just adding a small amount of water-based woodglue in paint significantly improved adhesion 10% even schoolglue helps...
Set design DIY has a lot of helpful tips for using this material and allot of recommendations of other helpful products that are meant to be used with this kind of build material. Definitely check Pinterest.
ReStores also vary. In Atl we have 5, the one in expensive condo part cost 2-3x more than Roswell or Tucker. But no store has same stuff...great idea yo ur followers . Love these ideas and logic of foam!6
With regard to fastening the cabinet to the wall look into quarter turn fasteners. I have some on my car that hold the plastic cowling on the engine. It is held on firmly with an easy quarter turn to release it. Typically the screw side is held captive in a clip or the like which means it stays in place for easy reconnect.
I love this idea. Your vibe and your attitude, particularly how you field negative comments, is refreshing. I'm considering this technique for a swing away hitch receiver Kitchen, as weight is a major consideration. I'm not sure how this would hold up in high winds on the back of a minivan, but if you think a teardrop trailer is feasible, I think it could work. Maybe do the outer shell in 2"? Perhaps make the vertical corners bends for aerodynamics, strength, and aesthetics? I'm downsizing from a Wheelchair Bus that I've lived and traveled in full time with my wife to a Toyota Sienna that will be recreational, at least for now, or until the zombie apocalypse.
@jeff selzer Thanks for the compliments... yeah I think a hitch receiver build could work... I would start with a sturdy metal pipe frame (welded hopefully)... and incorporate that frame into the foam. The exterior coating is going to be an issue... you’ll want to use exterior paint at the least but you could use the bed liner or plastidip or something like that too. 2” might be a good idea but you may not need to honestly. Last though here is that you may think about using something more flexible as the glue... like big stretch caulking (untested by me on foam, btw) but the thought here is that it would allow the finger joints to flex slightly... that ability to flex may be good. If you build it let me know, I’d love to see it accomplished and I’d put it out for others if you did not want to. Good luck!!
Hi, just subscribed - I really like the idea of your lightweight panels. Apologies if this has already been mentioned but I believe that the addition of chicken wire / EML (expanded metal lath) in your panel “sandwich” would greatly improve the structural rigidity and make this a “multi - use” panel for larger / heavier duty applications. Fibreglass mesh (as used in external wall insulation) would be another lightweight way of adding strength / flexibility. A lightweight damp proof membrane applied to one side would also make this perfect for insulating floors against damp whilst improving the thermal properties of the floor. Just my thoughts - but I believe that you have only just touched on the future possibilities of this as a marketable product. Cool videos - good attitude - keep doing what you are doing 🙂.
Thanks, yeah all those are great ideas... honestly they are plenty strong as they are so I don’t see a reason to use other materials that are more expensive or harder to work with. Some of this is addressed in the Q&A video.
The table of contents is very nice, love long form content btw. I appreciate it, it's good to mix in medium effort long form with 6-17 minutes high effort videos.
This is great... Thinking a bit outside the box, but I wonder how this would hold up to the elements (Sun, rain and wind).. This method is inexpensive and I wonder if it could be used to build quick temporary houses for homeless or disaster ravaged areas; Even if created 'bricks' that slide together or something.. idk... let me know if you have any insight as to how this will hold up in weather.... Ignore the haters! Even 'failures' sometimes spark an idea in someone that can change the world... nice work!
Have not tested leaving them out in the elements... I would think with a good coat of exterior paint in the outside that they would be fine. At least for a year or so. The screen texture leaves tiny grid pockets on the surface that I imagine would hold tiny amounts of water and dirt that over time would start growing moss/mold/lichen on the shade side. Stability wise it should be fine. You could certainly pre-fab them; coat with screen and paint, cut out the finger joints, etc... and then snap them together on site and glue them. The only real issue I can think of is that they are very light so you’d have to anchor them to the ground well. Maybe 4 t-posts driven in at each corner. Thanks for the comment and the encouragement!
Thanks again for producing this, I know it's very time consuming. Thank you for sharing your sources and tools, shameless plugs and all; we are actually supporting american businesses, helping our neighbors. It's much cheaper to learn from another's experience than to pay for my own mistakes.
Good pace, great questions in this video, and direct answers. I'm enjoying these videos and learning a lot, it now seems doable on my own. Safely, affordably, very practical. Thank you!
some people are picking apart everything anyone does while they sit criticize and do nothing - i would not have wasted my time to addressing the stupid..- great way how you just drive on ... I like that you are thinking outside the box.. .. way to go...
I don’t mind the haters or the teasers... I’m a teaser too... so I know where they are coming from... for the most part nobody has been downright rude... this will probably ignore or delete... I think it’s important to embrace criticism and approach it with an open mind... it’s how we grow.
Just now watching. Affixing cabinets to vehicle...since it’s so light, if you have the room to lift up 3 inches, how about metal French cleats (Amazon $15). French cleat hanger 10 inch. Saw it on another RVers channel. Maybe cut the male side smaller and put rivets in the female side as stops so it won’t slide if you have to slam on the brakes.
An idea I've had (and used a version of once this far) for holding cabinets in place is to make cleats that hook into the voids in the vehicle body that are revealed when interior panels are removed. I made an overhead cabinet for my pickup that pops into two oval holes (approximately 2.5"x3") in the roof bracing. I covered the sharpish edges of the holes with vinyl edge trim and covered the cleats with thin speaker box carpet to prevent rattles. Installation is done by inserting the cleats into the holes, then pivoting the cabinet up and securing it in place with some machine screws where a forward extension overlaps with the crossbeam in the middle of the cab roof. Once installed, the trimmed headliner shell gets installed and it's securely in place with no visible fasteners.
Lap sealant is the chalk that fills holes. Expensive,but good stuff. .. I too, do not like fiberglass. So i use a painters drop cloth instead.. ..try butyl tape between the vent to stop your shaking noise.. ..cute cock.. ..i enjoy your vids,personality,and creativity.i look forward to more. Also,you said it best. (There are no bad ideas) we learn from all. Love,peace,and chicken grease ✌
Could you glue neodymium magnets to the bottom & sides of your cabinets so that they “stick” to the metal floor and walls of the BW bus and forgo any other retainers?
Idea for quick release mount for cabinet to van... mounting brackets (wooden slats) built in to the back of the cabinet. They get secured with straps that are bolted onto the van wall and could be removed as well if desired in future. The straps would just feed through small holes in the cabinet back to wrap around the mounting brackets in the cabinet. Cinch the strap and vwalah. Strap, rope tied off like a boat with a figure eight, or whatever works with what you have. Straps work well for securing heavy loads on trucks, so they should be fine for a cabinet, right? The little brackets for the straps on the van could be useful for securing other things as well, and would not be very obtrusive if just cinched empty on the wall. Just a first thought when watching your video here and this idea Request came up. Sorry if it has already been suggested as I am guilty of commenting without reading all the other posts yet. You asked for ideas on the video, so, here's how my brain reacted at that moment in the video.
In actual fiberglass work, there are two major types of "fabric". One is a woven material, similar in weave to burlap or coarser, usually called FG cloth, as opposed to FG "mat" which is randomly pressed together and rolled flat under pressure. The woven cloth is used for more structure and the mat is used closer to the surface to keep the "grid" from printing through to the finish. So similarly, back to PMF, for a smoother finish, it might be worth a try to use cotton cloth for a second layer of laminate.
Your dry humour and great comebacks crack me up. You’re like a contemplative Don Rickles. You should do your own version of Jimmy Kimmel’s mean tweets. Even your beer can tossing cracks me up. Take your show on the road dude. Would your wife leave you if you got a residency gig at Caesar’s Palace? Table fix - Carabiner, wire, velcro in place, eye-hook end of table, upper rail opposite side, hinge lock so table won’t swing. My two bahts worth (hi from Thailand).
This was incredibly helpful. You have increased the maturity level of the entire internet with your good humor and humility. I’m heading toward converting a Honda Element into a living vehicle and your videos on this shelving have been the most helpful. I have a couple questions for your next Q&A. On the shelving I’m designing, I want to use magnetic paint to be able to stick little things on the sides, but can I use magnetic paint instead of the gripper? Or should I put magnetic paint after the gripper? Second question, I’m not a little mouse (235 lbs), would the foam be strong enough to hold me if I used it as vertical cross bars with flats on top? I’m guessing it would if I used enough because the resistance to compression is so strong, but I’ve never even touched the stuff so I thought I’d ask. Thanks again for this vid. I can’t drink beer due to health reasons, but I’d still buy you a six pack and have a Coke with you. Peace.
Hey, thanks for the kind words... I try to be myself and be a kind and thoughtful human... thanks for noticing. As to your questions... the gripper paint as I say is not a strict brand requirement... it’s just a heavy duty primer... it’s got more adhesion strength than normal paint... I have not worked with magnetic paint, but I would guess it’s focused on its magnetic aspects rather than it’s gripping aspects... so I think I would plan to do them as separate coats. I’d also worry about the texture that the screen and gripper paint makes... you get a textured finish due to the screen holes. This may interrupt the magnetic ability... test it first on a scrap. You may want to skip the screen and gripper and do the 1/8” plywood on the areas you want the magnetic paint for a smooth surface. As far as the weight tolerance... I’m not clear on what you mean by “vertical crossbars... for your 235 weight”. If you are asking if a 235# person could sit/stand on that cabinet... yes for sure. If you are asking if you could make a ladder with foam and climb it... maybe... if designed right. Give me more detail and I’ll try to help.
NØMAD I didn’t think about the texture. Yeah, that could be a problem going straight on with the magnetic paint. As far as the crossbars, I’m sure there’s technical term for it, but I’m not a skilled builder so I don’t know it. If you say built a bookshelf out the panels, but then laid it down, could you put a surface to sleep on top of the shelves without them breaking from the compression? I’m planning to sleep on a Klymit sleeping pad like it’s a tent, but would like the surface elevated from the floor of the Element. Just wondering if I’d have to do that with wood or if the fiberglass panels would work. I still don’t feel that explains it, but that’s the best example I can think of.
No you explained it fine!!! For sure... with the bookshelf laid flat and a top surface on it... I can support the weight. That’s what I discuss in the Q&a in the “can you build ___ out of foam” section... in fact it think that rather than putting a flat XPS foam layer on top, or using said bookshelf... if you ran strips of coated foam (like the paint can flex test in my first video) you could use the flex of the foam to an ergonomic advantage... the foam structure would flex to the shape of your body making it more comfortable. So in your element, say you make a 7’x4’ frame of foam that is 2’ tall... then run 3-4” wide strips with a 2-3” gap between them on top. These would run side to side not top bottom. These strips would flex independently when you lay on them. Confirming to your body shape. Put your sleeping pad on top of that and I think it would be really comfortable.
Okay, I see where you’re going with that idea a little better now. I didn’t quite understand it in the Q&A. Seems like that would be a pretty cool design. I wonder if you could even put all the small crossbars on one big piece of mesh, stick them on with a few inches between, if it would roll up so that you could store it out of the way, then unroll it onto the frame to sleep on it. Sorta the same concept as some of those aluminum camping tables. Hmmmm. This gives me all kinds of great ideas. Thanks, man. I really appreciate you replying. Very very helpful. You’re awesome.
I'm going to build a small trailer camper... I think I'm going to use nut plates to try to take as much advantage of the compression strength as possible... failure is a nessary part of success.
hmm you got me thinking.. if you built the cabinet frame ( the body and door )with lets say.. 1x1 or 1x2 inches and then filled the center with foam pannels...so you get the benefits of having edges that drawers can slide in and out on and places for hinges for doors etc.. and door magnets and handles etc..
Note on the speaker box comment. I could be wrong but wouldn't the foam absorb the sound? I make sigarbox guitars as a hobby and I think just a thinner wood would work best for a good Acoustic affect
@4:20 you describe a sawing motion to cut with the hot blade. in my experience using saws and files, if you cut with a drawing or one way cutting action, reset, then cut again with a drawing or pushing motion, you get a cleaner and more efficient cut. I do not make content yet, but would love to see you make a video testing the comparisons between cutting techniques.
"Towanda... is that in like... is that in like Australia or something?" Tangent - I'm an Aussie and I really want to have a go at this stuff but the cost is damn restrictive. For reasons I'm sure someone who knows about insulation can explain foam board insulation isn't super common here. It's around, but not the standard. Which means it's expensive. You guys: Home Depot, Available Everywhere, Foamular, 1" x 4' x 8' = $19.55 = $0.61/sqft = $AUD0.89/sqft Aussies: Foam Specialty Stores, Here and There, e.g. 'Savrio' brand, 30 x 2500 x 600mm = $30 = $AUD1.86/sqft More than double. It's a real shit of a cunt.
I’m in a rural area and none of our “local” hardware stores had it... had to go to the nearest city. How does the price compare to plywood? Like I said in the video you could use thinner material, half or even a quarter inch would work well. Maybe some cost savings there? And... as an Aussie... doesn’t Towanda sound like it would be Australian? I feel like I have an Aussie accent just saying it🤷🏽♂️
@@falkornomad Oh yeah, Towanda is a bit Aussie. There's a place called Toowoomba so... yeah, pretty close. I'm in a state capital city and it looks like my city is better than others for foam because there's more specialty shops, but the big chain (Bunnings) only carries small boards that are way more expensive per sqm. Plywood's a little fiddly to compare 'cause we use different woods and grading/terminologies. But I'll compare 12mm and 15/32 inch of stuff that seems similar. USA: Lowes, 15/32" x 4' x 8' Plytanium Sheathing PS1-09 = $14.65 = $AUD0.67/sqft Oz: Bunnings, 2400 x 1200 x 12mm Non-Structural T8 Grade Pine = $41 = $AUD1.24/sqft Well bugger me, it's not quite double but it's doing it's best to get there. That said with the plywood I know I can go onto gumtree (craigslist equivalent?) and pick up non-perfect plywood for half that at dozens of places. Can't do that with the foam.
Half way in your video so if you did not answer later; it’s hard to find XPS at Home Depot / Lowe’s that is not scored. Do you squish some glue or something into the score to strengthen it? Or do you intentionally find somewhere whole non-scored sheets only?
I used the scored stuff, I don’t add any glue to scores but you could. If you are screening or facing it with wood the score is no longer weak, if you are not screening or facing it, it must be in an area that doesn’t need the structural integrity. That said when I cut pieces, if I have concerns about it I will avoid the score or orient it a particular way for the load I expect on the piece.
Have you thought of using a foam gun for sticking panels - needs clamping probably but would fill gaps and can be sanded. Alternative is polyurethane glue.
For those using these fiberglass screen laminate panels for exterior panels, I am going to use gripper type primer to bond the fiberglass to the foam and extra layers at the corners, then finish it with the silicone based paint on roof coating by Gaco or Henry.
hey ... how cool would it be if there were lightweight screws made 100 out of plastic for this type of construction.. you can screw together like wood... if you know about the greg jig... but would need light plastic screws instead of metal ones.. like the sheet rock anchors that look like large cork screws made of plastic.... hmm
That’s an interesting idea... a screw with more surface area for foam... very interesting. Down side is that they probably would not fit through the holes in hinges, etc... great idea though... I suppose a drywall anchor with a normal screw could work too... maybe with a little glue in there???
@@falkornomad yes I was thinking more for foam to foam board contact than any hardware as that might have too much stress on it.. but the drywall anchor screws( large plastic spiral shaped ones for surface mounting stuff) ( they have a hole in the middle to take a metal screw.. which could then possibly mount hardware... with some glue would likely work bell to hold sides together yet their length might be an issue
You are on to something here... fantastic idea!!! Did some preliminary testing yesterday... turns out a normal screw (drywall style let’s say) into foam will pull out with 3 pounds of force... using the drywall anchor (with modifications) can get you up to 23 pounds of force needed. That’s without any glue or other reinforcement. The modifications are removing the 2 or 3 pointed prongs on the anchor... these are for scoring and digging into the drywall but they rip or chip the foam... so I shave those down to a single point. I’ll test adding glue and a few other ideas I have for reinforcement. But even at 23# of resistance I think that could be enough for screwing in cabinet hinges, etc. thanks for sparking the idea!!! Once I explore the other options and improvements I’ll shoot a video and post the results. Keep the good ideas coming!!!👍🏽
Watching you melt the surface of the foam with that torch, made me realize that doing that, might actually improve the glue-bonding capabilities of that surface, as it creates a higher density surface layer of polystyrene to glue to, near perfectly molecularly bonded to the foam structure behind it. Heating it evenly to finish with a flat, even surface would be the trick of it. The melted surfaces of the pieces you burned get quite hard, don't they? Moistening the surface and playing a heat gun or hair dryer over it, might be a way to get an "even melt"
53:33 - It would not be great for speakers. Much of the sound you get from enclosed speakers comes from the resonance of the box itself. In effect, it would dampen the low end (in theory) however, it would be an interesting experiment to see a comparison using a full spectrum analyzer.
Pretty much all of the window screen sold in america, that isn't metal, is fiberglass mesh, coated with nylon. The cleanest way to cut a laminate like that, would be to score through both side's paint and fiberglass, then follow those lines with the hot knife to cut the foam. A hot knife with a stiff blade having sharp, lightly serrated edge and used with a sawing motion, is the tool I would envision, to reliably cut foam and two fiberglass laminate layers, without foam dust evrywhere.
Though I do have a couple pieces of paper that say diploma on them ... lol I'm no expert. However I do have 37 years experience in refinishing and a couple in research and development. What we're talking about is virtually uncharted territory... so this is how research and development is done... it's not on a computer screen.
This was great! Sweet design! Thanks for all the valuable info and entertainment. I love the way you keep it real with us idiots in the comments. More goats! 🐐
Wow, you’re really diving in!!! I used to have homesteading videos on this channel… but I moved them to here: youtube.com/@KEHomestead if you run out of van life videos, lol
Where is the van now? I’m a long time nomad and I CANT let go of my 470k Dodge maxi high top. I’m in a 2001 Chevy express 3500 Detroit diesel hi cube.. military..like your content…
The VW is in CA waiting for us to come get it… then it will be in VT where we are moving, waiting for me to build it out… maybe convert it to an EV… who knows! The Transit is still under us for the last 7 months… for 5-6 more months through the move.
Yup,another great video! Attitude is everything and F'Off Rudolph Hart! Always love the keyboard warrior types. Anyway... got my support and keep up the good work!
I don’t mind the haters or the teasers... I’m a teaser too... so I know where they are coming from... for the most part nobody has been downright rude... this will probably ignore or delete... I think it’s important to embrace criticism and approach it with an open mind... it’s how we grow.
Gojira makes no sense ...you are correct it has strength and you have proven your point... I would have just said.. next and the finger joints absolutely gives you more strength .. why else would they use on on solid wood.. same principle applies to wood...and foam board
There are multiple versions of "liquid nails". The original solvent based ones WILL melt foam, but more and more are now low VOC or no VOC. (Volatile organic compounds/usually hydrocarbon solvents.). The non solvent based, regular construction adhesive version, will not melt foam. Cyanoacrylate glue WILL melt foam. For contact cement, weldwood makes a no VOC version, that is more likely to work with foam, than the original. The bottom line, is buy one tube and TEST on scrap, before you use a product no one else has tested. If you're REALLY COOL, you come back here later, and share your own video or comments on the suitability of various products to this foam laminate construction.
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
![Fiberglass Cabinetry! [E70]](/img/n.gif)
I loved how you dealt with trolls. Well done, sir! Cheers
I know I'm making a metric eff-ton of comments here as your video (and having just finished your MOST excellent 5 part foamboard construction series) have inspired me. I had heard of using fiberglass lamination with paint as a construction method, and seen some of the expensive laminated products made of foam or hex core materials, but not realized until your video, the 'build in place, then laminate, possibilities. I don't expect replies, just hope my musings help inspire experimentation by others to enhance the range of info a techniques available to those of us using and expanding on the "techniques and materials" knowledge base you have provided for us here. Love your truly kind and confident style of knowledge sharing, that is brought to us with wisdom, love, humor, and practically without ego. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Oh thanks… I try to reply to all comments and since yours are logical and kind, I don’t mind a metric f-ton.
Bless you for having a table of contents!
Just found your channel! Layout Great!. You have built real neat features counter space 💥to name 1 of your build! Airlines use a type of foam type construction cuts weight think they use formica, interesting fact first ual planes used fine woods. Probably more industrial strength foam. your presentation, research & devl is best IMO I've seen. My new fav 😊. Thx. 🎉
Bro, your first foam cabinets video was to stuff TH-cam exploded on. We need more like it in our lives. Keep up the good work!
By far the best Q&A I've ever watched on TH-cam. You failed, however, to provide a link to your choice of brew. (Kidding...) Can't wait to try and build something myself in my RV!
I just watched this whole video.. You get a like and comment. Great content and love your attitude!! From Canada , eh
I came here looking for a few tips about the foam board technique - but I watched this all the way to the end for the entertainment value! ...love your style!
Awesome music three!
(Been going through your videos as a fellow Van & Subaru owner, they've been very inspiring!)
🍻
I love your idea Im so going to use this idea. not sure why so many are not thinking this is cool.. I agree they can build how they want
Never seen anyone answer so many questions so patiently and honestly despite how annoying so many of them clearly are! I watched the whole thing even after I decided I have no use for this particular method of construction! Well done!
I love your Q&A format (beers, cellos, roosters, and your wife's vocal cameo). Awesome info on the foam cabinet construction too! Thanks for great content.
Found your foam build series about 3 years after you posted it, just want to say thanks, it was really informative 👍
There are recent ones as well… if you have not found those on my channel.
@@falkornomad Thanks I realised that, just wanted you to know your old content is still helpful and appreciated, I hope that gave you some encouragement 🤞or at least made you smile.
👍🏽😀
LOVED how you responded to John trolling you, I hate when people are judgy towards others just based on appearance. He is here to learn about foam, not date you, so whether he finds you appealing or not is irrelevant. That being said, and with all due respect towards your wife and marriage, I think you're a cutie. You have a slightly rough masculine appeal going on but you're not dirty or scruffy like you don't take care of yourself; and it's combined with a good personality and outlook. Id be happy to find something like that lurking under my sofa one day but sadly I have a vacuum so I'm not holding my breath.
Your a cool dude, Saved me from a lot of mistakes.
👍🏽 hopefully you also saw the recent videos on my channel?
FYI the right kind of epoxy can be used directly on foam. And your screen is nylon but you can get it as fiberglass. Where when we normally say fiberglass we think woven fabric.
Your videos are helping me a lot thank you
Aluminum screen, can be an easy to find alternative to nylon screen that can be quite durable.
@@garethbaus5471 yes, but in some places it is considerably more expensive than the fabric is. The best way to find it (or the other kind, for that matter) cheap would be to find it in a listing on whatever your alternative to Craigslist is.
All of the screen sold for windows in my area is (that isn't aluminum,) is fiberglass with a nylon plastic coating in black (charcoal) and grey.
One of the best video I've ever found on TH-cam. Finished watching every second of it. Many thanks!
Wow, thanks! That’s a pretty big compliment for a 1:12:43 long video… that I almost didn’t post because TLDR. New foam build is done, tour posted and complete foam build system videos coming soon.
@@falkornomad Most people pay too much attention to cosmetics thus miss the value of the innovation. Half way through the new build video now. Keep it up!
Thank you so much for this incredibly useful information. Revived my interest in using this instead of baltic birch plywood.
Dave Orton did wonderful bed panels out of foam and wood in his van conversion.
This type of composite isn't going to be anywhere close to as rigid or durable as baltic birch, or really any plywood, although it should be significantly lighter weight and if used correctly might still be rigid and strong enough. If you want a light weight alternative to plywood that has more comparable stiffness and strength you might end up needing to use more expensive materials like end grain balsa, and fiberglass.
@@garethbaus5471 I'd wager you might want to actually talk to someone who's had this in use for awhile to get a comparison, rather than just assuming you know it all. That lamination will make a massive difference. I've worked with multiple other types of laminate materials over the years, and the act of laminating one material with one quality with a second material with another quality will get you a material with both qualities.
You can find dozens of trick's and tips from the model airplane hobby! They have used foam to build models for decaded. I recommend visiting the National Model Aviation Museum in Muncie, IN. It is fun!
That’s a great idea!
@@falkornomad hinges are very easy!
Your videos have definitely inspired me to do more research, so let me share some of my conclusions from what I've learned elsewhere.
1. You can use epoxy resin over XPS foam to make a stronger structure. So, you could use fiberglass, instead of screen to increase tensile strength, get a smoother finish, and through layers, you could plaster your maps over the fiberglass and under a transparent layer of epoxy to get the finish you were wanting with the maps.
2. Building a bed from foam (This is a project I'm hoping to tackle in six to eight months):
- I'm planning to use modular boxes with drawers that interlock with removable inserts which use embedded magnets and tension to help hold these bowtie-shaped inserts in place.
2. Like a lightweight aircraft, I am planning to use a small amount of wood framing with 1/2" plywood strips to provide more tensile strength and attachment points for the drawer glides. I plan to route the edges to have tongues for a good glue surface to attach the foam. I'm going to use 1/2 inch foam and glue the panels from each side of these tongues to embed the frame in the XPS without complicating the attachment. Adhesive is stronger than the foam, and by laminating from both sides of the plywood frame, I can use steel wire between these layers to add more rigidity to the framing without additional wood and it's weight.
- I'm planning to build one that does fold into a sofa bed, with this method. Each interlocking cabinet will be 18 inches tall and 26 inches wide and deep. So, if it can have a top that folds out an extra 25 inches of length, you get 76 inches surface, the standard length of twin and full mattresses. Additionally, two 26 inch cabinet's tied together gets me 52 inches of width, which is a couple inches shy of a full mattress width, close enough for a full fitted sheet to still fit, if the mattress foam is cut to fit these 52×76 inch dimensions. Although, I will oversize my cushion, so I will have a full size bed with both of these cabinets connected.
-26×3=78, and a king mattress is 80 inches long and 76 inches wide, so if I ever wanted an even larger bed, I could simply add another cabinet.
-if I use 27×76 segmented cushions, I could separate the boxes in sofa mode, and have each cabinet be a chair that can fold into a single cot.
- I've been playing with these dimensions for years, built a version of these boxes out of plywood, and sold that a decade ago, because it was really heavy in the 3/4 inch plywood I used at the time.
-I loved this concept, and your foam cabinet idea has given me a whole new approach to build these modular cot boxes, which will finally allow me to hit the weight and cost factors I couldn't with just plywood construction, years ago.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
Wow... those projects sound great! One general comment... I’m realizing that the foam is much stronger than I expected and that my units are likely overkill for the need. I mean it’s great that I CAN jump up and down on it... but do I really NEED to? I would encourage you to test less involved versions of your ideas first, knowing you can reinforce them if they are not strong enough.
Most informative, hilarious, entertaining Q&A vid ever! Thank you for all of this great info about the XPS foam & cabinetry - I only meant to watch a few mins, but i ended up watching the entire vid in one sitting!
BTW, I'M surprised i haven't come accross your videos earlier. Subscrd, & 👍 - keep going, great info!!!
Great q and a and great to see such a great relaxed attitude to TH-caming
hilarious 😄chuckled while i learned ... good job
Glad you enjoyed it!
A few helpful ideas(I hope), use a ratchet strap to hold the cabinets down, they are quick release and very strong. Teardrops n tiny travel trailers or tnttt.com and go to foamies, they have tons of foam ideas and experience. Lastly, maybe use a fillet out of liquid nail and screen for a stronger hold on the seams(idea from stitch & glue boats) also Duckworks ( boating supplies) has articles on foam boats that may be good ideas or tips.
I also have a friend who was in research and development of water-based house paint ... and he told me just adding a small amount of water-based woodglue in paint significantly improved adhesion 10% even schoolglue helps...
Good idea
Set design DIY has a lot of helpful tips for using this material and allot of recommendations of other helpful products that are meant to be used with this kind of build material. Definitely check Pinterest.
ReStores also vary. In Atl we have 5, the one in expensive condo part cost 2-3x more than Roswell or Tucker. But no store has same stuff...great idea yo ur followers . Love these ideas and logic of foam!6
With regard to fastening the cabinet to the wall look into quarter turn fasteners. I have some on my car that hold the plastic cowling on the engine. It is held on firmly with an easy quarter turn to release it. Typically the screw side is held captive in a clip or the like which means it stays in place for easy reconnect.
Second mention for quarter turn fasteners!!! Sounds like the way to go! Thanks!
Also like ur humor, making mistakes on air, and being creative artists with foam, wood, metal...nice work.
I love this idea. Your vibe and your attitude, particularly how you field negative comments, is refreshing. I'm considering this technique for a swing away hitch receiver Kitchen, as weight is a major consideration. I'm not sure how this would hold up in high winds on the back of a minivan, but if you think a teardrop trailer is feasible, I think it could work. Maybe do the outer shell in 2"? Perhaps make the vertical corners bends for aerodynamics, strength, and aesthetics? I'm downsizing from a Wheelchair Bus that I've lived and traveled in full time with my wife to a Toyota Sienna that will be recreational, at least for now, or until the zombie apocalypse.
@jeff selzer Thanks for the compliments... yeah I think a hitch receiver build could work... I would start with a sturdy metal pipe frame (welded hopefully)... and incorporate that frame into the foam. The exterior coating is going to be an issue... you’ll want to use exterior paint at the least but you could use the bed liner or plastidip or something like that too. 2” might be a good idea but you may not need to honestly. Last though here is that you may think about using something more flexible as the glue... like big stretch caulking (untested by me on foam, btw) but the thought here is that it would allow the finger joints to flex slightly... that ability to flex may be good. If you build it let me know, I’d love to see it accomplished and I’d put it out for others if you did not want to. Good luck!!
Hi, just subscribed - I really like the idea of your lightweight panels. Apologies if this has already been mentioned but I believe that the addition of chicken wire / EML (expanded metal lath) in your panel “sandwich” would greatly improve the structural rigidity and make this a “multi - use” panel for larger / heavier duty applications.
Fibreglass mesh (as used in external wall insulation) would be another lightweight way of adding strength / flexibility.
A lightweight damp proof membrane applied to one side would also make this perfect for insulating floors against damp whilst improving the thermal properties of the floor.
Just my thoughts - but I believe that you have only just touched on the future possibilities of this as a marketable product.
Cool videos - good attitude - keep doing what you are doing 🙂.
Thanks, yeah all those are great ideas... honestly they are plenty strong as they are so I don’t see a reason to use other materials that are more expensive or harder to work with. Some of this is addressed in the Q&A video.
The table of contents is very nice, love long form content btw. I appreciate it, it's good to mix in medium effort long form with 6-17 minutes high effort videos.
Thanks for the production feedback, always good to hear how things are received beyond 👍🏽👎🏽
So cool!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, brother. You are appreciated greatly.
My only regret is that I have but one like to give. Thank you for this video and your others.
Great video my dude! Saving weight is very important with these builds for more features and easier on our vehicles! Sweeet never would have thought.
Peace, Love, Foam Cabinets, Goats ... and ... and BEER!
This is great... Thinking a bit outside the box, but I wonder how this would hold up to the elements (Sun, rain and wind).. This method is inexpensive and I wonder if it could be used to build quick temporary houses for homeless or disaster ravaged areas; Even if created 'bricks' that slide together or something.. idk... let me know if you have any insight as to how this will hold up in weather.... Ignore the haters! Even 'failures' sometimes spark an idea in someone that can change the world... nice work!
Have not tested leaving them out in the elements... I would think with a good coat of exterior paint in the outside that they would be fine. At least for a year or so. The screen texture leaves tiny grid pockets on the surface that I imagine would hold tiny amounts of water and dirt that over time would start growing moss/mold/lichen on the shade side. Stability wise it should be fine. You could certainly pre-fab them; coat with screen and paint, cut out the finger joints, etc... and then snap them together on site and glue them. The only real issue I can think of is that they are very light so you’d have to anchor them to the ground well. Maybe 4 t-posts driven in at each corner.
Thanks for the comment and the encouragement!
Love your vids!!
Thanks again for producing this, I know it's very time consuming. Thank you for sharing your sources and tools, shameless plugs and all; we are actually supporting american businesses, helping our neighbors. It's much cheaper to learn from another's experience than to pay for my own mistakes.
Good pace, great questions in this video, and direct answers. I'm enjoying these videos and learning a lot, it now seems doable on my own. Safely, affordably, very practical. Thank you!
this video is amazing. so thankful for all this info, and i had some great laughs. keep updating us on your projects and discoveries!🤘
I am just starting, and I want to keep my vans gas mileage up as much as possible, so using foam is it for me.
some people are picking apart everything anyone does while they sit criticize and do nothing - i would not have wasted my time to addressing the stupid..- great way how you just drive on ... I like that you are thinking outside the box.. .. way to go...
I don’t mind the haters or the teasers... I’m a teaser too... so I know where they are coming from... for the most part nobody has been downright rude... this will probably ignore or delete... I think it’s important to embrace criticism and approach it with an open mind... it’s how we grow.
Fantastic Q&A
Just now watching. Affixing cabinets to vehicle...since it’s so light, if you have the room to lift up 3 inches, how about metal French cleats (Amazon $15). French cleat hanger 10 inch. Saw it on another RVers channel. Maybe cut the male side smaller and put rivets in the female side as stops so it won’t slide if you have to slam on the brakes.
An idea I've had (and used a version of once this far) for holding cabinets in place is to make cleats that hook into the voids in the vehicle body that are revealed when interior panels are removed. I made an overhead cabinet for my pickup that pops into two oval holes (approximately 2.5"x3") in the roof bracing. I covered the sharpish edges of the holes with vinyl edge trim and covered the cleats with thin speaker box carpet to prevent rattles. Installation is done by inserting the cleats into the holes, then pivoting the cabinet up and securing it in place with some machine screws where a forward extension overlaps with the crossbeam in the middle of the cab roof. Once installed, the trimmed headliner shell gets installed and it's securely in place with no visible fasteners.
👍🏽
Lap sealant is the chalk that fills holes. Expensive,but good stuff.
.. I too, do not like fiberglass. So i use a painters drop cloth instead..
..try butyl tape between the vent to stop your shaking noise..
..cute cock..
..i enjoy your vids,personality,and creativity.i look forward to more.
Also,you said it best. (There are no bad ideas) we learn from all.
Love,peace,and chicken grease ✌
Good ideas and thanks for the compliments
Your videos are awesome brotha! Thanks for sharing your experiences! Keep up the good work.
Could you glue neodymium magnets to the bottom & sides of your cabinets so that they “stick” to the metal floor and walls of the BW bus and forgo any other retainers?
I f’ing love that idea!
Idea for quick release mount for cabinet to van... mounting brackets (wooden slats) built in to the back of the cabinet. They get secured with straps that are bolted onto the van wall and could be removed as well if desired in future. The straps would just feed through small holes in the cabinet back to wrap around the mounting brackets in the cabinet. Cinch the strap and vwalah. Strap, rope tied off like a boat with a figure eight, or whatever works with what you have. Straps work well for securing heavy loads on trucks, so they should be fine for a cabinet, right? The little brackets for the straps on the van could be useful for securing other things as well, and would not be very obtrusive if just cinched empty on the wall.
Just a first thought when watching your video here and this idea Request came up. Sorry if it has already been suggested as I am guilty of commenting without reading all the other posts yet. You asked for ideas on the video, so, here's how my brain reacted at that moment in the video.
No, it’s a new idea… you’re thinking like French cleats with a ratchet strap at the bottom? I like it actually… simple.
In actual fiberglass work, there are two major types of "fabric". One is a woven material, similar in weave to burlap or coarser, usually called FG cloth, as opposed to FG "mat" which is randomly pressed together and rolled flat under pressure. The woven cloth is used for more structure and the mat is used closer to the surface to keep the "grid" from printing through to the finish.
So similarly, back to PMF, for a smoother finish, it might be worth a try to use cotton cloth for a second layer of laminate.
You can use fiberglass, but you need to use epoxy resin. It will not melt the foam.
👍🏽
that was a great answer and well voiced to john dunbar love the way you explain it.
Glad you enjoyed it
You rock man! Thanks for the table of contents with time stamps!
Your dry humour and great comebacks crack me up. You’re like a contemplative Don Rickles. You should do your own version of Jimmy Kimmel’s mean tweets. Even your beer can tossing cracks me up. Take your show on the road dude. Would your wife leave you if you got a residency gig at Caesar’s Palace?
Table fix - Carabiner, wire, velcro in place, eye-hook end of table, upper rail opposite side, hinge lock so table won’t swing. My two bahts worth (hi from Thailand).
This was incredibly helpful. You have increased the maturity level of the entire internet with your good humor and humility. I’m heading toward converting a Honda Element into a living vehicle and your videos on this shelving have been the most helpful. I have a couple questions for your next Q&A. On the shelving I’m designing, I want to use magnetic paint to be able to stick little things on the sides, but can I use magnetic paint instead of the gripper? Or should I put magnetic paint after the gripper? Second question, I’m not a little mouse (235 lbs), would the foam be strong enough to hold me if I used it as vertical cross bars with flats on top? I’m guessing it would if I used enough because the resistance to compression is so strong, but I’ve never even touched the stuff so I thought I’d ask. Thanks again for this vid. I can’t drink beer due to health reasons, but I’d still buy you a six pack and have a Coke with you. Peace.
Hey, thanks for the kind words... I try to be myself and be a kind and thoughtful human... thanks for noticing.
As to your questions... the gripper paint as I say is not a strict brand requirement... it’s just a heavy duty primer... it’s got more adhesion strength than normal paint... I have not worked with magnetic paint, but I would guess it’s focused on its magnetic aspects rather than it’s gripping aspects... so I think I would plan to do them as separate coats. I’d also worry about the texture that the screen and gripper paint makes... you get a textured finish due to the screen holes. This may interrupt the magnetic ability... test it first on a scrap. You may want to skip the screen and gripper and do the 1/8” plywood on the areas you want the magnetic paint for a smooth surface.
As far as the weight tolerance... I’m not clear on what you mean by “vertical crossbars... for your 235 weight”. If you are asking if a 235# person could sit/stand on that cabinet... yes for sure. If you are asking if you could make a ladder with foam and climb it... maybe... if designed right. Give me more detail and I’ll try to help.
NØMAD I didn’t think about the texture. Yeah, that could be a problem going straight on with the magnetic paint. As far as the crossbars, I’m sure there’s technical term for it, but I’m not a skilled builder so I don’t know it. If you say built a bookshelf out the panels, but then laid it down, could you put a surface to sleep on top of the shelves without them breaking from the compression? I’m planning to sleep on a Klymit sleeping pad like it’s a tent, but would like the surface elevated from the floor of the Element. Just wondering if I’d have to do that with wood or if the fiberglass panels would work. I still don’t feel that explains it, but that’s the best example I can think of.
No you explained it fine!!! For sure... with the bookshelf laid flat and a top surface on it... I can support the weight. That’s what I discuss in the Q&a in the “can you build ___ out of foam” section... in fact it think that rather than putting a flat XPS foam layer on top, or using said bookshelf... if you ran strips of coated foam (like the paint can flex test in my first video) you could use the flex of the foam to an ergonomic advantage... the foam structure would flex to the shape of your body making it more comfortable. So in your element, say you make a 7’x4’ frame of foam that is 2’ tall... then run 3-4” wide strips with a 2-3” gap between them on top. These would run side to side not top bottom. These strips would flex independently when you lay on them. Confirming to your body shape. Put your sleeping pad on top of that and I think it would be really comfortable.
Okay, I see where you’re going with that idea a little better now. I didn’t quite understand it in the Q&A. Seems like that would be a pretty cool design. I wonder if you could even put all the small crossbars on one big piece of mesh, stick them on with a few inches between, if it would roll up so that you could store it out of the way, then unroll it onto the frame to sleep on it. Sorta the same concept as some of those aluminum camping tables. Hmmmm. This gives me all kinds of great ideas. Thanks, man. I really appreciate you replying. Very very helpful. You’re awesome.
I'm going to build a small trailer camper... I think I'm going to use nut plates to try to take as much advantage of the compression strength as possible... failure is a nessary part of success.
👍🏽
hmm you got me thinking.. if you built the cabinet frame ( the body and door )with lets say.. 1x1 or 1x2 inches and then filled the center with foam pannels...so you get the benefits of having edges that drawers can slide in and out on and places for hinges for doors etc.. and door magnets and handles etc..
Yeah I have considered 1x1 or 2 framing... would like to avoid it but it may need to be a thing in some applications.
Yes i kept wondering why the steering wheel was on the wrong side ,I thought Briton or Australian
Awesome follow up. Also, hilarious 👍
Note on the speaker box comment. I could be wrong but wouldn't the foam absorb the sound? I make sigarbox guitars as a hobby and I think just a thinner wood would work best for a good Acoustic affect
@4:20 you describe a sawing motion to cut with the hot blade. in my experience using saws and files, if you cut with a drawing or one way cutting action, reset, then cut again with a drawing or pushing motion, you get a cleaner and more efficient cut.
I do not make content yet, but would love to see you make a video testing the comparisons between cutting techniques.
Good idea!
"Towanda... is that in like... is that in like Australia or something?"
Tangent - I'm an Aussie and I really want to have a go at this stuff but the cost is damn restrictive. For reasons I'm sure someone who knows about insulation can explain foam board insulation isn't super common here. It's around, but not the standard. Which means it's expensive.
You guys: Home Depot, Available Everywhere, Foamular, 1" x 4' x 8' = $19.55 = $0.61/sqft = $AUD0.89/sqft
Aussies: Foam Specialty Stores, Here and There, e.g. 'Savrio' brand, 30 x 2500 x 600mm = $30 = $AUD1.86/sqft
More than double. It's a real shit of a cunt.
I’m in a rural area and none of our “local” hardware stores had it... had to go to the nearest city. How does the price compare to plywood? Like I said in the video you could use thinner material, half or even a quarter inch would work well. Maybe some cost savings there?
And... as an Aussie... doesn’t Towanda sound like it would be Australian? I feel like I have an Aussie accent just saying it🤷🏽♂️
@@falkornomad Oh yeah, Towanda is a bit Aussie. There's a place called Toowoomba so... yeah, pretty close.
I'm in a state capital city and it looks like my city is better than others for foam because there's more specialty shops, but the big chain (Bunnings) only carries small boards that are way more expensive per sqm.
Plywood's a little fiddly to compare 'cause we use different woods and grading/terminologies. But I'll compare 12mm and 15/32 inch of stuff that seems similar.
USA: Lowes, 15/32" x 4' x 8' Plytanium Sheathing PS1-09 = $14.65 = $AUD0.67/sqft
Oz: Bunnings, 2400 x 1200 x 12mm Non-Structural T8 Grade Pine = $41 = $AUD1.24/sqft
Well bugger me, it's not quite double but it's doing it's best to get there.
That said with the plywood I know I can go onto gumtree (craigslist equivalent?) and pick up non-perfect plywood for half that at dozens of places. Can't do that with the foam.
This definitely isn't a low effort long form video
Hysterical and informative. Love it.
hmmm just make like a slide in wedge shape to fit into a wedge shaped holder ... kinda like the way a cordless battery fits into the tool...
Half way in your video so if you did not answer later; it’s hard to find XPS at Home Depot / Lowe’s that is not scored. Do you squish some glue or something into the score to strengthen it? Or do you intentionally find somewhere whole non-scored sheets only?
I used the scored stuff, I don’t add any glue to scores but you could. If you are screening or facing it with wood the score is no longer weak, if you are not screening or facing it, it must be in an area that doesn’t need the structural integrity. That said when I cut pieces, if I have concerns about it I will avoid the score or orient it a particular way for the load I expect on the piece.
@2:34 why is that blade set to cut 6in stock when you’re only cutting 1in? The blade should never be further out than is absolutely necessary.
what materials are you going to use for the drawers??
Have you thought of using a foam gun for sticking panels - needs clamping probably but would fill gaps and can be sanded. Alternative is polyurethane glue.
For those using these fiberglass screen laminate panels for exterior panels, I am going to use gripper type primer to bond the fiberglass to the foam and extra layers at the corners, then finish it with the silicone based paint on roof coating by Gaco or Henry.
Many use Titebond rather than gripper for that application.
hey ... how cool would it be if there were lightweight screws made 100 out of plastic for this type of construction.. you can screw together like wood... if you know about the greg jig... but would need light plastic screws instead of metal ones.. like the sheet rock anchors that look like large cork screws made of plastic.... hmm
That’s an interesting idea... a screw with more surface area for foam... very interesting. Down side is that they probably would not fit through the holes in hinges, etc... great idea though... I suppose a drywall anchor with a normal screw could work too... maybe with a little glue in there???
@@falkornomad yes I was thinking more for foam to foam board contact than any hardware as that might have too much stress on it.. but the drywall anchor screws( large plastic spiral shaped ones for surface mounting stuff) ( they have a hole in the middle to take a metal screw.. which could then possibly mount hardware... with some glue would likely work bell to hold sides together yet their length might be an issue
@@falkornomad they have holes in the middle for regular pan heads which will not tear out of them too easily
You are on to something here... fantastic idea!!! Did some preliminary testing yesterday... turns out a normal screw (drywall style let’s say) into foam will pull out with 3 pounds of force... using the drywall anchor (with modifications) can get you up to 23 pounds of force needed. That’s without any glue or other reinforcement. The modifications are removing the 2 or 3 pointed prongs on the anchor... these are for scoring and digging into the drywall but they rip or chip the foam... so I shave those down to a single point. I’ll test adding glue and a few other ideas I have for reinforcement. But even at 23# of resistance I think that could be enough for screwing in cabinet hinges, etc. thanks for sparking the idea!!! Once I explore the other options and improvements I’ll shoot a video and post the results.
Keep the good ideas coming!!!👍🏽
Regarding insulation value… foam has a value of R5. Does the thickness of the foam affects the overall value? Compare 1” thick to 2” thick
Yes, they are proportional… R10 for 2”
Watching you melt the surface of the foam with that torch, made me realize that doing that, might actually improve the glue-bonding capabilities of that surface, as it creates a higher density surface layer of polystyrene to glue to, near perfectly molecularly bonded to the foam structure behind it. Heating it evenly to finish with a flat, even surface would be the trick of it.
The melted surfaces of the pieces you burned get quite hard, don't they?
Moistening the surface and playing a heat gun or hair dryer over it, might be a way to get an "even melt"
Hmmm… that’s and interesting idea… maybe an clothes iron at the right heat setting… could even use the “steam spray” if needed… maybe!
I have a suggestion for your cabinet doors and attaching it to the van by using PVC hinges and us a nail for the PIN
Interesting idea… I have new build videos for a full van build with foam if you have not seen them yet.
oh I love your DOG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I’ll be going with foam for my truck cap camper. Easier also to remove.
Right hand drive is unusual in the US but you do see them on occasion
53:33 - It would not be great for speakers. Much of the sound you get from enclosed speakers comes from the resonance of the box itself. In effect, it would dampen the low end (in theory) however, it would be an interesting experiment to see a comparison using a full spectrum analyzer.
Pretty much all of the window screen sold in america, that isn't metal, is fiberglass mesh, coated with nylon. The cleanest way to cut a laminate like that, would be to score through both side's paint and fiberglass, then follow those lines with the hot knife to cut the foam. A hot knife with a stiff blade having sharp, lightly serrated edge and used with a sawing motion, is the tool I would envision, to reliably cut foam and two fiberglass laminate layers, without foam dust evrywhere.
👍🏽
Though I do have a couple pieces of paper that say diploma on them ... lol I'm no expert. However I do have 37 years experience in refinishing and a couple in research and development. What we're talking about is virtually uncharted territory... so this is how research and development is done... it's not on a computer screen.
👍🏽
Sheeesh- I cant believe I missed this!
Hood pins would hold the cabinets in place.
This was great! Sweet design! Thanks for all the valuable info and entertainment. I love the way you keep it real with us idiots in the comments. More goats! 🐐
Oh, and I did notice that the steering wheel was on the wrong side in this video. Didn’t in the other one.
Try a set of bonnet pins from automotive industry as a quick release to remove your cabinetry easy
all good thanks😀
👍🏽
The violin bit!🤣🤣🤣
Wow, you’re really diving in!!! I used to have homesteading videos on this channel… but I moved them to here: youtube.com/@KEHomestead if you run out of van life videos, lol
@@falkornomad Right on! Thanks!
Where is the van now? I’m a long time nomad and I CANT let go of my 470k Dodge maxi high top. I’m in a 2001 Chevy express 3500 Detroit diesel hi cube.. military..like your content…
The VW is in CA waiting for us to come get it… then it will be in VT where we are moving, waiting for me to build it out… maybe convert it to an EV… who knows! The Transit is still under us for the last 7 months… for 5-6 more months through the move.
Yup,another great video! Attitude is everything and F'Off Rudolph Hart! Always love the keyboard warrior types. Anyway... got my support and keep up the good work!
I don’t mind the haters or the teasers... I’m a teaser too... so I know where they are coming from... for the most part nobody has been downright rude... this will probably ignore or delete... I think it’s important to embrace criticism and approach it with an open mind... it’s how we grow.
Subscribed!
Gojira makes no sense ...you are correct it has strength and you have proven your point... I would have just said.. next and the finger joints absolutely gives you more strength .. why else would they use on on solid wood.. same principle applies to wood...and foam board
Stone coat epoxy works on foam with out melting
Good tip.
I find you each “visit” by typing in keywords that take me back to your foam board cabinet. 🔑
You could always subscribe and click the bell and YT would tell you when I post something new.
NØMAD that quit working a long time ago 🤷🏻♀️.
What state are you in
Northern California
How about if you use only wood ?
That is on the weight listing and mentioned.
There are multiple versions of "liquid nails". The original solvent based ones WILL melt foam, but more and more are now low VOC or no VOC. (Volatile organic compounds/usually hydrocarbon solvents.). The non solvent based, regular construction adhesive version, will not melt foam. Cyanoacrylate glue WILL melt foam.
For contact cement, weldwood makes a no VOC version, that is more likely to work with foam, than the original.
The bottom line, is buy one tube and TEST on scrap, before you use a product no one else has tested. If you're REALLY COOL, you come back here later, and share your own video or comments on the suitability of various products to this foam laminate construction.
👍🏽
U R Amazing!!
You too!!