1st gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues th-cam.com/video/_so6yhV5qXE/w-d-xo.html 2nd gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues th-cam.com/video/272PBPSS2no/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Audi A8 (D3/4E) - 2002-2010 th-cam.com/video/PijHDhQ3Gas/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Audi Q7 (4L) - 2005-2015 th-cam.com/video/04o6oK1J5fM/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Audi A4 (B8) - 2008-2015 th-cam.com/video/ixDwvZbWtWM/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Audi S6 (C6/4F) - 2006-2010 th-cam.com/video/mpf5CgCOhM0/w-d-xo.html Audi A6, A8, Q7 STEERING LOCK ISSUE th-cam.com/video/ujxQLU_rw3I/w-d-xo.html How to replace the Cabin Air Filter on Audi A6, S6, RS6 C6 - 2004-2011 th-cam.com/video/zjRaxd3l7y4/w-d-xo.html Buying a used BMW 3 series (F30) - 2011-2019 th-cam.com/video/SV15lqX30ek/w-d-xo.html Buying a used BMW 5 series E60, E61 - 2003-2010 th-cam.com/video/xmcBIa9tAq8/w-d-xo.html Buying a used BMW 6 series F06, F12, F13 - 2011-2018 th-cam.com/video/is8QeVYYB8E/w-d-xo.html Buying a used BMW M5 (F10) - 2011-2017 th-cam.com/video/geoivnl1QrY/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Mercedes S-class (W221) - 2006-2013 th-cam.com/video/mg9Fy0RlOMk/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Mercedes E55 AMG, E63 AMG (W211) - 2003-2009 th-cam.com/video/-iGw8_YLL44/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Mercedes E-class W212 - 2009-2016 th-cam.com/video/Q7t1_SsW-kc/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Volkswagen Passat (B6, B7) - 2005-2014 th-cam.com/video/lu36PMVBChI/w-d-xo.html Buying a used Volkswagen Passat CC - 2008-2016 th-cam.com/video/SFY6Wx_55Yw/w-d-xo.html Buying a used VW Phaeton - 2002-2016 th-cam.com/video/FGXXchOF_g4/w-d-xo.html
Hi! I think I have been offered your ex Allroad V8 today, I am from Slovakia. I want to ask about the cars history. Please contact me - reply to comment.
Done a lot of work on A6 C6s. Here are some recommendations to minimise issues: 1) Get the facelift version (C6.5) if possible. Many of the earlier faults have been ironed out. Also you get LED lights (although not headlights). 2) Always perform regular oil changes using VW 507 spec. If you do high miles and run extended service intervals then an anti-friction/cleaning additive will help minimise risk of issues (N.B. only do this outside warranty). 3) Use premium fuel and regularly add fuel cleaning additive. Minimises issues with the fuel system such as injector blockages and top-end engine deposits. 4) Never touch a Multitronic CVT car. Best to go for Tiptronic. 5) On a 3.0 TDI, change the crank pulley flywheel. This will often come off at some point as the originals are rubber (not mechanically) bonded to reduce harmonic vibration. When it comes off you will lose cooling, power steering, alternator. So as this failure will disable the vehicle a pro-active replacement will provide peace of mind. 6) Even on the 'sealed for life' Tiptronic auto transmission (which is a great transmission), it is still a good thing to change the transmission oil at intervals if you plan to keep the car for a long time. Only use an approved ZF service partner for this type of work (all of which are listed on the ZF site) as this is a fairly complex procedure and a mistake will cost you dearly. If you service the trans every 50k then there is a good chance that the transmission will outlive the car. 7) Keep a close eye on the rear springs. They often fail at high mileage especially in countries that use road salt in wintry conditions. This is because they rust in a way which allows stresses to build up and they snap. 8) All Audis including C6 have a complex front suspension with multiple control arms to create a 'virtual pivot'. What this means in practice is that there are loads of rubber bushes that will wear out so the handling increasingly deteriorates over time with squeaks and bangs developing in the worst cases. The side nearest the kerb will be the first one to go as that is the one that gets hammered the most due to potholes and other road defects. The upper control arms are the weakest so you need to keep an eye on those for undue play, especially the rear one. Unfortunately rubber bushes will fail even on lower mileage cars because rubber is a component that ages irrespective of use. To avoid that happening consider replacing with polybushes, although they behave differently to standard rubber so this will change the feel of the car quite a bit. 9) Avoid cars with air suspension. Very expensive repairs if you use an Audi dealer. Yes the ride is great when they work but unfortunately with age and mileage then something is likely to eventually fail and the parts cost a lot. If you are unlucky it can be like 'whack a mole' - solve one issue with the air suspension and another is waiting to appear. 10) Get a Quattro. A C6 without having quattro is like having a birthday party without any friends, just not the same. 11) The SE version has a better ride than the S-Line especially on bumpy roads. Yep the S-Line looks better with the big rims and is a bit better at hard cornering but there is a price to pay for that, which is your comfort. If you get the S-Line then rest assured that you will eventually grimace in advance of every bump in the road or swerve to avoid them. 12) If you plan to own this car then you will need some DIY car skills, and so is probably not a car to own if working on a car frightens you. The newest ones are now 10 years old and they are increasingly getting issues. Having these repaired at an Audi dealer or even an Independent specialist is going to be a very quick way to empty your wallet. 13) Never get a C6 TDI equipped with a DPF if all you are going to be doing are local and short journeys. These engines need to be worked hard to get the high temps necessary to remove engine deposits and local journeys mean the deposits build up and the auto-regen may not be able to handle this. This situation could cause emission control failure (limp mode etc) and potentially require expensive ($1500+) repairs. 14) If you are technically minded, invest in VAG-COM/VCDS and a laptop. This way you can run diagnostics scans, getting the same info as Audi and identify impending issues without spending $$$. You can also make adaptations and activate functions which are not otherwise accessible.
Thank you so much for all the information, I currently own a 2008 A6 Quattro 3.2L, and want to get more power out of it. What could you recommend I do?
@@vluri258 Normally aspirated engines like the 3.2L do not give massive power gains using remaps. You can perhaps achieve around 20 BHP more this way. It is also possible to add a forced induction kit such as a 3rd party supercharger to give you additional power. However I think this engine has around 12.5/1 compression ratio which is quite high, so the boost pressure would need to be kept low to avoid the engine coming apart at the seams. Personally, if I had decided to make a sizeable $$ investment in such a car, I would get the cylinder head gas flowed including having the valve openings machined (using a spiral flow to improve fuel/air mixing), have a sports exhaust fitted, install fast cams for more top end power, alongside a remap. If I was being greedy for well over 300BHP, and sufficiently brave to risk it, I might also include the induction kit option with some strenghening work to handle the charger boost. Bear in mind engine mods like this are not DIY jobs, they are expensive and can also introduce reliability issues if not done by somebody who is fully experienced in this type of mod. So you would need to decide whether this is a worthwhile risk and investment in a 12 year old car.
Whould you chance oil (flussing the transmission) for 225tkm driven tiptronic, if it has stock oil in it. I have C6 BMK remapped to 285hp/550nm. Some say that if you chance stock oil after 200tkm, it could do more damage to turbine than drive with old oil. Because all the possible metal particles of transmission wearing will flow to turbine. I also want to state that in my experience C6 air suspension is far more reliable than mercedes/bmws air suspension of the time. I had to chance suspensions compressor (399€) but apart that, suspension has worked flawlesly. Original factory installed compressor ran 200 000km, and factory suspension still works well. So i would say its quite reliable. Considering that car has seen only northern finlands roads, and temperatures.
@@johanneskoskela384 225km is a lot of miles to do a first trans fluid change, and there is an increased risk of metal wear particles and other contaminants like friction material being dislodged when you use a flushing machine. Basically there is a magnet and filter in the trans, and flushing without first cleaning the pan and its magnets can dislodge contaminants, which then get into the moving parts like torque converter, gears, etc, and also the internal fluid channels, some of which are small and easily blocked. If that happens the 6HP trans can fail within a few hundred miles. If I was going to do this at 225km then I might drop the pan first, clean it, change the filter, fill up (being careful to only replace the volume of fluid that has come out), and then after a week or two of driving do a proper machine flush and repeat the filter change. Many people would call this approach overkill, as trans fluid is like liquid gold and costs a fortune. Although no where near as much as buying a new gearbox, so IMO best to be safe rather than sorry if you value the car. I would also recommend that you should only get a ZF approved partner to do this type of work. It can be done as a DIY job, but very easy to mess it up and you need the right equipment. Rubber bushes can actually last longer in cold climates, as hot weather tends to evaporate the volatiles in the rubber more quickly, drying it and helping to break down the compound. Although very cold weather can also damage rubber for different reasons, as cold rubber is not that pliable so stresses more and cracks easier.
People from outside Europe won't understand why you focus so much on body panel gaps and hidden accident damage. 😂 Must be nice to live in a country that has trustworthy people
Luca van Gorkom It is not very uncommon for very severely accident damaged cars to be sent to Eastern Europe for some very questionable repairs and then sold again either in the country of repair or some other country to someone who is not aware of any previous repairs. Usually these cars are too damaged to be properly repaired at a reasonable cost considering car value. Labor is much cheaper in some Eastern European countries and due to this accident repair industry spare parts are very available. Sometimes these cars might have non functioning airbag systems without the airbag light alarming the driver. You really can’t know if everything has been properly fixed without very in detail investigation of the car and its history. Poor panel gaps, obvious poor quality repaint and other signs of accident damage or body repair are an alarming sign that car might have had some questionable body repairs in the past.
@@gaedzable thanks for the explanation! I guess there are also downsides to being able to travel so quickly and cheaply between so many different countries. Anything like that's unheard of in New Zealand, my country. If there's any sort of accident here, the car has to go through a giant warrant system to ensure it gets repaired at a trusted place, or they just bin the car.
@@lucavangorkom9453 Speaking of any *warranty repairs* in car sales industry - there's is no such thing as "trusted place", neither in NZ nor ANYWHERE. In perfect world - if the car is not worth to be fixed it should be scrapped. Back to reality - at the end of the day it's all about $$$. In U.S. or Western Europe many accident or flood damaged vehicles are being sold "as-is" by either the owners or insurance companies at auctions and then exported to Eastern European countries where (as mentioned above) labor is cheaper and lots of second hand parts available as well, to eventually get back on the market in "spotless" shape, like nothing ever happened. It's just a tip of the iceberg though. That's why the panel gaps check is a basic and one of the first steps when buying the vehicle. This phenomenon however requires wide geographical diversity, where the cars can be imported/exported multiple times and it's way more difficult (sometimes impossible) to chase the full vehicle history reports, service records, etc. Even though you wouldn't have such an experience living in New Zealand, I guarantee there's quite "a few" vehicles on NZ market with poor panel gaps, poor paintwork quality and other stuff that would make you start asking questions and think twice before placing cash on the table. Unless it's paradise on Earth... which is very unlikely in terms of that business :)
@@exs3574 I see what you mean. But in NZ there is such thing as a trusted place - the insurance companies are trusted in NZ and are the ones who insure the car gets processed correctly. If the car's a write off, the police ensure the car doesn't get warranted or registered again. The only potential we could have might be cars imported from Japan, but even most of them go through a very thorough process with grading system and certification.
I've had my A6 3.0TDi Avant 10 years now (it's an 07 that I bought at 2 years old). In all that time, I've had the heater valve, leaking tailgate pipe and drivers door regulator issues - but my car has now over 205k miles: or approx 330,000 km's. Only issue with the engine had been a faulty air flow meter: approx €145 delivered from Germany and fitted by myself in less than 10 minutes. I had the ECU remapped the day after I bought it, and though I can't vouch for the exact BHP figure, I have had it up to a GPS recorded 154mph (just over 160mph on the clock), with a tiny bit more to go (so nearly 250kph real speed), and I am more than happy with that for a big diesel dog carrier!! Still looks and drives perfect (touch wood!), and have absolutely zero plans on changing it any time soon: it's fast, comfortable, has a massive load space, Quattro for the awful weather and on super-long motorway journeys, I can easily get 1000km's to a tank of fuel - the perfect all round car really!
@@GreatUchiha123 I generally get 9.42 L/100km (30 mpg) in town and up to 7.06 L/100km (40 mpg) on a motorway. The best I've ever got was 6.57 L/100km (43 mpg) on a 725km (450 mile) run. (2005 3.0 TDi Avant)
I regret selling mine. I had a 2008 with the 3.2fsi v6 and I swear to this day NOTHING HAS COME CLOSE TO HOW AMAZING THIS CAR TRULY IS! this is the ultimate daily car, I put nearly 140000km on mine and It was the most comfortable car and Decent HP for a daily. I had the Sline NON air suspension with AWD and it was a great car. When I get the chance I will be purchasing another one
Thanks dude! I am a 2007 Audi A6 C6 4F, Avant, Quattro S Line, 3.2L, owner here. None of the mentioned problems yet, I am at 200k only. Definitely the drain holes needs to be cleaned!
4 years later I came back to say that eventually I had to let go, my beloved A6 C6 Avant got to 250k and got tired of fixing it. Nothing unusual or expensive, it's been a great car, maybe the best. It had the 3.2 FSI , the most amazing engine ever! I replaced with a 2015 A8L TDI, only 30 000 miles, so I should be good for the next 5 years or so...
I bought my A6 in November 2018 with just under 200k on the clock, it's 2009 year of production, facelift model with 2.7 engine and 190 hp. To this date I had no problem whatsoever, just regular maintenance. Currently it has 250k, inside almost like new, everything is solid, spacious, comfortable, made for cruising through multiple countries. It's the car I always wanted but wasn't able to buy one, now from my experience I can say that the car is really really great and I haven't regret one bit buying it 👍👌
I had the 3.2v6 of the c6 from 2008. I bought it with 38000km on it and it was reliable ish..... Mine had been sitting forawhile so some electrics were funny. After the dealership fixed them it was perfectly reliable. I had it serviced every 10000km and serviced the gearbox at 70000km and it was perfect. Never missed a beat and would highly recommend this model with the 3.2
lots of information in this video it's the best one I have seen, I have a 2005 Avant sline 2.0 tdi with 227.000 miles on it I have replaced 1 turbo 1 rear spring 2 rear brake caliper the same side both times Oil pump failed but I pulled over instantly so no other damage The heater blows full hot on the driver side every now and then I cleaned the valve once already must do it again The inside flooded through the fire wall I got a stick and knocked that fancy drain valve out now there is a 1/2 in whole no more problems I had to pull up the carpet to get the water out of the inside about 20 liters can live unseen under there be warned, It ran rough for a year during that time I changed all the sensors and MAF EGR and a few vacuum lines each time it got better Now it runs like new again The rear window regulator is broken right now and the driver door lock won't work with the centeral locking so I use the key. I love the car still after 8 years and it's unbelievably economical I get 47 mpg over all and 60 on a gentle motorway Run It's towed my 1700kg caravan and family all over Switzerland this summer. It's a good car but luckily I have a very good and trusted garage to do all the work also another car to drive while it's in bits. Audi I think made an unbelievably high quality car for the money Lots have gone wrong on mine but nothing was highly expensive as I always fit remanufactured parts and honestly do you expect no problems on a 160.000 mile 7 year old car you bought 8 years ago that's now got 227.000 miles ?? Again I love this video
How much should I pay for a 2007 Audi Avant www.autotrader.ca/a/audi/a6/richmond/british%20columbia/5_47731445_20200124144948162?showcpo=ShowCpo&ncse=no&ursrc=ts&prx=100
I have 2005 2.0TDi A6 BLB engine, with PD injectors and hex shaft driven oil pump, on engine replaced twice egr valve, Engine mount was changed electric one, just because fault in vcds. throttle body was working but making tick sound at engine shutdown, got good deal on new, so changed. 1rocket broke, left valve open, didn't notice until was changing glow plugs, car was driving fine. Injectors was checked during rocket change, was ok. Milage 350k km, oil change 10k km 5w30 Change fuel filter every 2nd oil change. Own car since 2008.
I've got a 2008 3.2 a6, this was the most thorough video I've ever seen! My car is leaking oil has timing chain noises the cabin smells like gas when it runs and it vibrates. It's at 240,000. After seeing this I realize I need to do over 5k of work on it 😂 it's not worth buying a used Audi. I've had mine since it was at 160,000 4 years ago
Absolutely nothing wrong with used Audi vehicles as long as you know what you're buying. 3.2 FSI says it all... but you probably know that already :) If you've done some research before purchase you'd have never even considered the A6 with this engine and 160K on it.
not bad going then if you've got 240k on the clock, all the more reason to buy one of these (keeping in mind the maintenance/checks mentioned on this video)
@@draganz32 sounds like she's been maintained and probably parked in a garage lol I live in Canada it's -30 and I need to hurry to work sometimes takes a hard toll on any car I guess but mine was parked outside and I hardly did maintenance! I recently sold it for $2k lmao
Awesome video. This is the very first time i have ever been told to keep X amount of money aside for specific repairs to a car. This sort of buying advice should be standard practice by now.
I was wondering between this car and an a4 b7 1.9tdi, and eventually opted for the 1.9, much simpler, much easier to work on, got polybushes, quatrro converted it and got a "hard" flywheel when my DMF went out, mine is remapped to 150hp and 400nm absolutely no problems, runs like a dream :)
Spot on review, I had a 2008 2.7 V6 A6 allroad, suspension air strut failed at 100k miles, £1800 to fix, blue smoke at idle and black clouds at full acceleration, rear window wiper motor failed and leaked rusting the boot and passenger door actuator failed too.
i have a 2005 avant 2.0tdi its the first of the PD engines i got it in 2012 with 160.000 mils and it now has 235.000 mils in that time fitted a new turbo 400£ new oil pump remanufactured from Poland about 1000£ with all the labor new MAF 120£ 1 front wheel bearing 2 parking brake calipers same side as i didnt get audi original part i cleaned the heater valve its been ok since new AC compressor 500£ it ran really rough for a year during that time i replaced all the air sensors and in the end i changed the EGR 120£ and that cured it anti shudder valve changed and the altinator clutch changed and the fan tensioner all new brakes and discs thats about it it drives wonderfully and is incredibly economical a wonderful car your video is good but with some mechanical sympathy i think the 2.0 tdi of any vintage is a good buy. i had a ford Mondeo for 5 years and it had the same problems come up every month my audi has had issues but once repairs are carried out they dont come back i plan on keeping it for another 200.000mils but am interested in getting an audi q7 as the family is expanding thanks for the videos keep it up 💪
Glad I found you cuz I wasn't even going to buy it cuz it had such bad reviews. I bought one with 200.000km with a leaking valve covers but with new suspension & no other problems. I paid $500, $75 for gaskets & she runs really nice.
What a Brilliant Guide on what to look for. Im considering to by a 04 A6 3.2 fsi with a Manual trans.. I have to check for all the leaks and all the minor interieur details, so thank you very Much for this awesome guide!
Geat video. However, after viewing it, I just gave up up considering buying one for myself. Too many possible (and expensive) failures for my taste!! I guess I'll just keep my A6 Avant 1.9 TDI from 2001. Been happy with her and never left me hanging!
I own a 2005 Audi a6 avant with 460.000km with the 3.0L TDI V6 engine,it runs like a dream,its very confy and has a very smooth ride,the only problem i had was the timing chain which costed me 1000euro,i replaced the gearbox because it got stuck into 3 gear,changed the ecu and the fuel injectors,it has a lot of options like heated seats,2 zone climate,electronic front seats,big radio,bose sound sistem,it isnt rusted at all,it has the quattro drive system and it has no problem in the snow what so ever,its my perfect daily and i love it,i dont plan on selling it in the next 5 years,i also used to own a 2004 a6 with the 2L tdi engine with manual transmision and i had no problems with it. Great cars,great build quality,perfect daily driver,never left me on the road.
We bought a A6 2.7 TDI le mans sline brand new back in 2008 it's done 247000 trouble free miles apart from service MOT tyres road tax and insurance and fuel we love it and has become our second Audi we will never sell her she is part of our family vorsprungdertecnick best car manufacturer period
There s a video on TH-cam how to cut one wire on the steering lock which deactivates it permanently! Or just rejoin if you want it back on . I did it myself took ten minutes. No worries about buying a new steering column now .
I'm 99,9% likely to by one this week, wish me luck! I don't care, that it's a relatively basic A6 Avant model with 2.4 liter gasoline engine, since currently I drive 1995 rusty Golf III at the end of it's life cycle, so this definitely going to be an upgrade. XD
Great video! Very detailed and with some funny animations. As with any luxury car there can be various problems which will cost big money. The most dissappointint thing is the timing chain, which can worn at 200k kilometres. Otherwise this car is pretty solid, better than bmw and merc. More economical too
You forgot to talk about Abs module, MAF and parktronic module. These parts are prone to fail on these cars (at least at my 4.2 quatro sedan 2005). Your review is really almost perfect. Congratulations.
Im probably one of the happiest owners of AUDI A6 C6 (4F2) 2007 3.0 TDI (171Kw without DPF!). I bought it at 2012 from our company with 96 000Km. Im not driving too much, now it has 186000 Km without any serious problem! I only changed sparkplugs, brakes, two door locks, front shoulders (axle?). Thats all. I feel, that suspension is getting worn out, but no leaking. Great car, but sadly only limousine and im expecting second child, so we need change it for some combi. Selling it will really break my hearth.
I have the allroad c6 3.0 tdi tiptronic and don’t have any errors, the suspension works really well at any height level. When I replaced the back springs, initially I got an error (yellow car warning) at any level except on dynamic mode, I suspected the valve block which is close to the compressor, but then, I didn’t have any error, working properly. What Im referring, its not a leak from the springs, it gets out from the compressor through the air filter inside. Opening or closing the door, I hear the relay 4x and then a leak during 1 second.
I had the injector seals fail.I started hearing the hissing sound+fuel smell in the interior I drove for a few days and decided to fix it.They charged me less than 60€ to fix not one bot both sides so all of them.The seals themselves were like 15€ and it took about 2-3 hours…I just got off a video from someone saying just one is about $350 for one side, or $750 for both sides…Crazy
I have this car s line plus edition 2008 3.0tdi egr , flaps and dpf removed plus chip tuned, its a beast at 221kw. Funny thing is half of the problems you claimed i already had on this car :), half way there. Nice review
Great video, alot of details, I see you put a lot of work in it !!! (and I bought the car by the way, after watching your previous A6 C6 video, I bought an Audi A6 2.0tfsi)
@@parvizazimov7009 Hallo Parviz, I bought mine from the second owner, so it was in a very good condition, I own mine 5 weeks and did 4000 kilometers, only small thing I had is the airbag light came on but after cleaning the connector and connecting it, it was fixed, a family member of mine has one for like 10 years without any problems and is still enjoying it, my advice would be to buy one that is in a very good condition (body/engine) en has a maintance record, (dont buy the cheapest with no history) then im sure you will have a great car with little maintaince.
Another important thing is the crankshaft position sensors. It is really cheap to replace them, but it you do not do it, the car can leave you stranded.
I had a a 2005 A6 Avant 3.0ltr sold at 65000 miles. Expensive work was Injectors at 45K Miles £3000 ! and ignition lock £700 and MMI Electrics replacement under warrantees due to water leek. Otherwise never missed a beat.
Thank you for this much appreciated. I've had a B7 2.0L a4 avant s-line manual quattro for years and thinking about picking up a 2007 A6 C6 s-line quattro in the 3.1l v6 for run around in a different country.. seems like you can't change much about it and it's a decent car for cheap.. famous last words :)
There are some videos to help you replace just the switches instead of the entire steering column, most times it's really a bad battery that doesn't supply enough power. If you're in Canada, Ontario I can help.
7:15 i just bought used c6 and it occasionally pulls up these 2 lights in dashboard. So is it always because of parking brake? cuz it pops up sometimes in the middle of driving and sometimes when im standing still. When i stop the engine and start it, it disappears. Someone know something about it?
Thank for the video, very informative, useful and detailed! I am looking to buy one of these and did test-drive earlier today. I get mild vibration from steering wheel and pedals on start-up before driving off. Doesn't seem normal and would appreciate your opinion on this issue (I haven't been able to find anything related to this yet)
F Gj i can speak on behalf of e60. Dont buy one with a N series gasoline engine. 2004 models still have M series engines which are pretty reliable. Automatic transmissions will not be perfect if it hasn’t been maintained.
Hello! I’ve bought an Audi A6 C6 4F from 2010 (facelift) with the 3.0 TDI 240hp engine. I could have bought the E60 as well with the 286hp engine but I chose the Audi. Do you think I did the right choice? Is the A6 more comfortable and more quiet? My friend also said that the accelerator pedal was better on the bmw.. He said that the organ type was better than the suspended type… What do you say?
-E60 has better handling, better steering feedback, better weight distribution and yes also better accelerator pedal response. E60 is more of a "drivers car" than the A6. + it can have more optional equipment like night vision, ventilated front seats or HUD. But it also has slightly worse reliability of the electronics than the A6 (even though A6 can have some issues too). -The A6 is on the other hand an "all season car". The quattro 4wd is much better than the xdrive in the E60, with the optional air suspension its more comfortable, its very stable at high speeds on the highway at any wheather, it has better built interior, better sound system and better multimedia system than the old iDrive in the before facelift E60. the engine in the 535d is very good - plenty of power and fairly good reliability, but the problem is that plenty of these cars are abused, badly maintained and already in bad/worn condition because of the cheap price and powerful engine which attracts plenty of "wanna be street racing drivers/drifters" overall your choice of the A6 with the 3.0 TDI is not bad at all, if its in good condition then it will last a very long time, if you want to see all the issues the 3.0 TDI can have check out this video: th-cam.com/video/_so6yhV5qXE/w-d-xo.html
One other issue about the automatic gearbox. I am well aware that people go on that 'sealed for life' is a joke and should be ignored in favour of doing a fluid change, however, as I said elsewhere - mine is at approx 330,000 km's and I have NEVER touched it. Too many stories on both sides, so I decided to adopt the position that 'if it isn't broke, don't touch it!' The box still changes as quickly and as smoothly as the day I bought it over 10 years ago, so I'm going to continue to accept the original declaration that it is better off being 'sealed for life' and leave it well alone!
@@hamwicbi1265 Tiptronic - it was actually the only gearbox available for my version (3.0TDi Quattro). As of Thursday just gone, it now has 332,000 (just over 207,000 miles) after a 400km round trip. Have to do same trip again tomorrow with another few hundred kilos of gear in the back, and no doubt neither the car nor myself will feel it again. Oh, and thanks to the two long trips in such quick succession, I'll be crashing through the famed '1000km per tank' barrier tomorrow too (which admittedly is rare due to most of my usual driving being stuck in traffic!). I simply cannot fault this car (touch wood!) ;)
My A6, V6, 3.0, quattro, year 2005, ... problem culum lock a few years until I replaced it... a real horror in the middle of the road if you suich the engine will be not sure if the car startet again, even partially found I was looking for a lot of work as it had to be special ..., then there was water from the blockage of the canals, some generic services , and in the 15th year of production requires engine chain service. There were no other problems, I am generally satisfied.
Im looking at buying my second A6 with the 3.2 and have a question. The owner has put in the ad "The mechanics are strong and regularly serviced, despite a tendency to shake at idle due to a leaky fuel-injector that otherwise has no effect on the driving experience." is this a common issue? I was looking online and parts are really cheap to repair this but does this sound right?
It's unlikely, the injectors if leaking are probably because they took the upper intake runners off and not change the o-rings, or relube them before putting it back together. Audi recommends changing the o rings on the injectors each time you take off the runners but most just relube and put it back because of the price of them from Audi
Depends of your definition of "good". If an economy shitbоx that does not break down as often and is cheap to repair is "good" to you, than it is a bit sad. It is like choosing an ugly old boring wife, because "she does not spend much money". What is the point... Get a beautiful, young, interesting wife and live with the high expences. I am talking about a car in this context. Now, if you don't care about cars or driving, or even hate it, then just get some Dacia shitbоx, because it is cheap to buy and repair...
Where you take this price? People dont worry is a nice car! I driving 3years this all problems can easy fix, parts can buy second hand for replace or cheap analog.
Not as standard. You can get Bluetooth adapters on the likes of ebay for about €20 that connect to the AMI port and you can then connect your phone to that
Hi DCR - thanks for your review. I've got the 3L TFSI supercharged model. It's still low kms and running beautifully. But if I was to hear the Cam chain rattle sound, you believe changing the top two tensioners will likely fix it and that job can be down with the engine ensitu?
Might not be the tensioners though, the 3.0T is louder and more rattly than the c6 being a turbocharged engine. Unless it's a clatter, I wouldn't worry about it. Go look at some dealers with used ones and compare the sounds.
Is oil change in the automatic gearbox included in the service scheme? I mean do the dealer recomend it to be changed or do people usually not change it?
I have a yellow and green car shaped light on my dash in my 3.2 V6 Quattro. The yellow car-shaped lighg has two stacked yellow dots. The green car-shaped light has a green down arrow on it. What does these lights mean?
how likely will i be able to get a 160k km model allroad 3.0tdi to 300k. assuming preventive maintence. really would love response from high milage owner
My friend had one, it got him around 350k and every summer he would drive 1500+ km to his summerhouse. Aside from regular maintenance he only put premium gas and fuel injector cleaner
My A6 3.2 FSI Quattro consumes 17-19l/100km city and 9.5-10.5 l/100km highway. Other than fuel consumption can confirm that everything in the video is correct. Looking forward to see your comparison of A6 C6 & C7 generations since I wanted to buy C7 but not completely sure if I should.
I bought a c7 but sold them, the 3.0T is a supercharged engine, I find it noisier and more complicated than the c6. Bought another c6, I like the styling and uniqueness of the car alot more personally
Man this was a very good video. I like your accent :) Very informativ video. I want to buy a 2008 Avant with the 2.7 diesel engine. About 165 000 km. Hope it will make me happy. Had a a4 b7 bevor and i had a motor damage at 305 000km. But it was my fault too, not only the car. We all get wiser eith the years and mistakes we did. thanks fot he video. Very iformative!
19:09 a broken aux belt will not leave you stranded. just continue driving - you have no powersteering and climate though and have to avoid draining the battery :D
Hello, awesome video, I have discarded lots of multitronic versions from my searching / list! I need your help / opinions please: I found a 2005 Audi A6 V8 Triptonic without quattro vs a 2006 Audi A6 V6 3.2 FSi quattro , which one would you buy if the 2005 Audi is 1000 Euros cheap than the v6 fsi? I dont know if the 2006 is triptonic or multitronic, even if its triptoonic, as I far I know, quattro versions got air suspensions by default making this v6 less reliable?
Hi -all the V8 and all the quattro versions are always equipped with the tiptronic, + the V8 models always have the quattro 4wd system -the air suspension was always optional, so only the Allroad versions have it as standard (if the car you are looking at has air suspension then of course sooner or later you have to expect leaking air struts and worn out air compressor) if you are asking which one to buy the 2005 4.2l V8 or the 2006 3.2 FSI, then this mostly depends on the condition of the car and the mileage, since both of these engines can withstand a lot with regular maintenance, so they dont really have any serious issues, but: -both of these engines have a timing chain mechanism which can be worn after approx. 200 000 km-mainly if the previous owner have not changed the oil often, so listen for a short rattle at cold start which is the sign of a worn chain -the 3.2 FSI can have a noticeable amount of carbon build up on the intake valves + it can have faulty injectors-causing misfires, as the other direct injection engines + the various oil or coolant leaks can be more expensive to fix on the V8 engine
@@differentcarreview-dcr Thank you, sorry for my late answer. I will go for the V6 3.2 Fsi, it got 112, 000 km, instead the V8 which got 200k km. The V6 3.2 fsi quattro looks nice, I will follow all the tips before purchasing it mate! Thanks
Hello, the front suspension of my car fell, I changed the inclination sensor, but there is no activity on the display, the car is in comfort mode, the car can be driven, but raising and lowering the car does not work. Can help.
1st gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues th-cam.com/video/_so6yhV5qXE/w-d-xo.html
2nd gen 3 0 TDI ALL Issues th-cam.com/video/272PBPSS2no/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Audi A8 (D3/4E) - 2002-2010 th-cam.com/video/PijHDhQ3Gas/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Audi Q7 (4L) - 2005-2015 th-cam.com/video/04o6oK1J5fM/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Audi A4 (B8) - 2008-2015 th-cam.com/video/ixDwvZbWtWM/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Audi S6 (C6/4F) - 2006-2010 th-cam.com/video/mpf5CgCOhM0/w-d-xo.html
Audi A6, A8, Q7 STEERING LOCK ISSUE th-cam.com/video/ujxQLU_rw3I/w-d-xo.html
How to replace the Cabin Air Filter on Audi A6, S6, RS6 C6 - 2004-2011 th-cam.com/video/zjRaxd3l7y4/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used BMW 3 series (F30) - 2011-2019 th-cam.com/video/SV15lqX30ek/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used BMW 5 series E60, E61 - 2003-2010 th-cam.com/video/xmcBIa9tAq8/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used BMW 6 series F06, F12, F13 - 2011-2018 th-cam.com/video/is8QeVYYB8E/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used BMW M5 (F10) - 2011-2017 th-cam.com/video/geoivnl1QrY/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Mercedes S-class (W221) - 2006-2013 th-cam.com/video/mg9Fy0RlOMk/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Mercedes E55 AMG, E63 AMG (W211) - 2003-2009 th-cam.com/video/-iGw8_YLL44/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Mercedes E-class W212 - 2009-2016 th-cam.com/video/Q7t1_SsW-kc/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Volkswagen Passat (B6, B7) - 2005-2014 th-cam.com/video/lu36PMVBChI/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used Volkswagen Passat CC - 2008-2016 th-cam.com/video/SFY6Wx_55Yw/w-d-xo.html
Buying a used VW Phaeton - 2002-2016 th-cam.com/video/FGXXchOF_g4/w-d-xo.html
Please make one clip with A6 4f2 c6 sedan ,benzine / petroleum , 2,4 liter V6 Quattro , manual transmission ( 2004 - 2008 ) my beautiful "Torsenyyyy baby girl "❗❗❗
Can you please make a review on the mazda 6 from 2008 to 2012 in general , thank you in advance
Hi! I think I have been offered your ex Allroad V8 today, I am from Slovakia. I want to ask about the cars history. Please contact me - reply to comment.
Done a lot of work on A6 C6s. Here are some recommendations to minimise issues:
1) Get the facelift version (C6.5) if possible. Many of the earlier faults have been ironed out. Also you get LED lights (although not headlights).
2) Always perform regular oil changes using VW 507 spec. If you do high miles and run extended service intervals then an anti-friction/cleaning additive will help minimise risk of issues (N.B. only do this outside warranty).
3) Use premium fuel and regularly add fuel cleaning additive. Minimises issues with the fuel system such as injector blockages and top-end engine deposits.
4) Never touch a Multitronic CVT car. Best to go for Tiptronic.
5) On a 3.0 TDI, change the crank pulley flywheel. This will often come off at some point as the originals are rubber (not mechanically) bonded to reduce harmonic vibration. When it comes off you will lose cooling, power steering, alternator. So as this failure will disable the vehicle a pro-active replacement will provide peace of mind.
6) Even on the 'sealed for life' Tiptronic auto transmission (which is a great transmission), it is still a good thing to change the transmission oil at intervals if you plan to keep the car for a long time. Only use an approved ZF service partner for this type of work (all of which are listed on the ZF site) as this is a fairly complex procedure and a mistake will cost you dearly. If you service the trans every 50k then there is a good chance that the transmission will outlive the car.
7) Keep a close eye on the rear springs. They often fail at high mileage especially in countries that use road salt in wintry conditions. This is because they rust in a way which allows stresses to build up and they snap.
8) All Audis including C6 have a complex front suspension with multiple control arms to create a 'virtual pivot'. What this means in practice is that there are loads of rubber bushes that will wear out so the handling increasingly deteriorates over time with squeaks and bangs developing in the worst cases. The side nearest the kerb will be the first one to go as that is the one that gets hammered the most due to potholes and other road defects. The upper control arms are the weakest so you need to keep an eye on those for undue play, especially the rear one. Unfortunately rubber bushes will fail even on lower mileage cars because rubber is a component that ages irrespective of use. To avoid that happening consider replacing with polybushes, although they behave differently to standard rubber so this will change the feel of the car quite a bit.
9) Avoid cars with air suspension. Very expensive repairs if you use an Audi dealer. Yes the ride is great when they work but unfortunately with age and mileage then something is likely to eventually fail and the parts cost a lot. If you are unlucky it can be like 'whack a mole' - solve one issue with the air suspension and another is waiting to appear.
10) Get a Quattro. A C6 without having quattro is like having a birthday party without any friends, just not the same.
11) The SE version has a better ride than the S-Line especially on bumpy roads. Yep the S-Line looks better with the big rims and is a bit better at hard cornering but there is a price to pay for that, which is your comfort. If you get the S-Line then rest assured that you will eventually grimace in advance of every bump in the road or swerve to avoid them.
12) If you plan to own this car then you will need some DIY car skills, and so is probably not a car to own if working on a car frightens you. The newest ones are now 10 years old and they are increasingly getting issues. Having these repaired at an Audi dealer or even an Independent specialist is going to be a very quick way to empty your wallet.
13) Never get a C6 TDI equipped with a DPF if all you are going to be doing are local and short journeys. These engines need to be worked hard to get the high temps necessary to remove engine deposits and local journeys mean the deposits build up and the auto-regen may not be able to handle this. This situation could cause emission control failure (limp mode etc) and potentially require expensive ($1500+) repairs.
14) If you are technically minded, invest in VAG-COM/VCDS and a laptop. This way you can run diagnostics scans, getting the same info as Audi and identify impending issues without spending $$$. You can also make adaptations and activate functions which are not otherwise accessible.
Thank you so much for all the information, I currently own a 2008 A6 Quattro 3.2L, and want to get more power out of it. What could you recommend I do?
@@vluri258 Normally aspirated engines like the 3.2L do not give massive power gains using remaps. You can perhaps achieve around 20 BHP more this way.
It is also possible to add a forced induction kit such as a 3rd party supercharger to give you additional power. However I think this engine has around 12.5/1 compression ratio which is quite high, so the boost pressure would need to be kept low to avoid the engine coming apart at the seams.
Personally, if I had decided to make a sizeable $$ investment in such a car, I would get the cylinder head gas flowed including having the valve openings machined (using a spiral flow to improve fuel/air mixing), have a sports exhaust fitted, install fast cams for more top end power, alongside a remap. If I was being greedy for well over 300BHP, and sufficiently brave to risk it, I might also include the induction kit option with some strenghening work to handle the charger boost. Bear in mind engine mods like this are not DIY jobs, they are expensive and can also introduce reliability issues if not done by somebody who is fully experienced in this type of mod. So you would need to decide whether this is a worthwhile risk and investment in a 12 year old car.
Whould you chance oil (flussing the transmission) for 225tkm driven tiptronic, if it has stock oil in it. I have C6 BMK remapped to 285hp/550nm.
Some say that if you chance stock oil after 200tkm, it could do more damage to turbine than drive with old oil. Because all the possible metal particles of transmission wearing will flow to turbine.
I also want to state that in my experience C6 air suspension is far more reliable than mercedes/bmws air suspension of the time.
I had to chance suspensions compressor (399€) but apart that, suspension has worked flawlesly. Original factory installed compressor ran 200 000km, and factory suspension still works well. So i would say its quite reliable. Considering that car has seen only northern finlands roads, and temperatures.
@@johanneskoskela384 225km is a lot of miles to do a first trans fluid change, and there is an increased risk of metal wear particles and other contaminants like friction material being dislodged when you use a flushing machine. Basically there is a magnet and filter in the trans, and flushing without first cleaning the pan and its magnets can dislodge contaminants, which then get into the moving parts like torque converter, gears, etc, and also the internal fluid channels, some of which are small and easily blocked. If that happens the 6HP trans can fail within a few hundred miles.
If I was going to do this at 225km then I might drop the pan first, clean it, change the filter, fill up (being careful to only replace the volume of fluid that has come out), and then after a week or two of driving do a proper machine flush and repeat the filter change. Many people would call this approach overkill, as trans fluid is like liquid gold and costs a fortune. Although no where near as much as buying a new gearbox, so IMO best to be safe rather than sorry if you value the car.
I would also recommend that you should only get a ZF approved partner to do this type of work. It can be done as a DIY job, but very easy to mess it up and you need the right equipment.
Rubber bushes can actually last longer in cold climates, as hot weather tends to evaporate the volatiles in the rubber more quickly, drying it and helping to break down the compound. Although very cold weather can also damage rubber for different reasons, as cold rubber is not that pliable so stresses more and cracks easier.
@ Gladius Do You think that the worn crank pulley flywheel can be responsible for vibrations on engine idle revs? (3.0 TDI CDYA)
On Tesla vehicles, inconsistent gaps actually indicate that the car is completely original.
Don't forget to mention the scufs and paint runs.
It's their way of determining if you've worked on the car yourself. A kind of seal of approval from tesla.
And how lame is that ?
Facts
People from outside Europe won't understand why you focus so much on body panel gaps and hidden accident damage. 😂 Must be nice to live in a country that has trustworthy people
lol.... thats exactly me.... Why the panel gap issues?
Luca van Gorkom It is not very uncommon for very severely accident damaged cars to be sent to Eastern Europe for some very questionable repairs and then sold again either in the country of repair or some other country to someone who is not aware of any previous repairs. Usually these cars are too damaged to be properly repaired at a reasonable cost considering car value. Labor is much cheaper in some Eastern European countries and due to this accident repair industry spare parts are very available. Sometimes these cars might have non functioning airbag systems without the airbag light alarming the driver. You really can’t know if everything has been properly fixed without very in detail investigation of the car and its history.
Poor panel gaps, obvious poor quality repaint and other signs of accident damage or body repair are an alarming sign that car might have had some questionable body repairs in the past.
@@gaedzable thanks for the explanation! I guess there are also downsides to being able to travel so quickly and cheaply between so many different countries. Anything like that's unheard of in New Zealand, my country. If there's any sort of accident here, the car has to go through a giant warrant system to ensure it gets repaired at a trusted place, or they just bin the car.
@@lucavangorkom9453 Speaking of any *warranty repairs* in car sales industry - there's is no such thing as "trusted place", neither in NZ nor ANYWHERE. In perfect world - if the car is not worth to be fixed it should be scrapped. Back to reality - at the end of the day it's all about $$$. In U.S. or Western Europe many accident or flood damaged vehicles are being sold "as-is" by either the owners or insurance companies at auctions and then exported to Eastern European countries where (as mentioned above) labor is cheaper and lots of second hand parts available as well, to eventually get back on the market in "spotless" shape, like nothing ever happened. It's just a tip of the iceberg though. That's why the panel gaps check is a basic and one of the first steps when buying the vehicle. This phenomenon however requires wide geographical diversity, where the cars can be imported/exported multiple times and it's way more difficult (sometimes impossible) to chase the full vehicle history reports, service records, etc. Even though you wouldn't have such an experience living in New Zealand, I guarantee there's quite "a few" vehicles on NZ market with poor panel gaps, poor paintwork quality and other stuff that would make you start asking questions and think twice before placing cash on the table. Unless it's paradise on Earth... which is very unlikely in terms of that business :)
@@exs3574 I see what you mean. But in NZ there is such thing as a trusted place - the insurance companies are trusted in NZ and are the ones who insure the car gets processed correctly. If the car's a write off, the police ensure the car doesn't get warranted or registered again. The only potential we could have might be cars imported from Japan, but even most of them go through a very thorough process with grading system and certification.
I've had my A6 3.0TDi Avant 10 years now (it's an 07 that I bought at 2 years old). In all that time, I've had the heater valve, leaking tailgate pipe and drivers door regulator issues - but my car has now over 205k miles: or approx 330,000 km's. Only issue with the engine had been a faulty air flow meter: approx €145 delivered from Germany and fitted by myself in less than 10 minutes. I had the ECU remapped the day after I bought it, and though I can't vouch for the exact BHP figure, I have had it up to a GPS recorded 154mph (just over 160mph on the clock), with a tiny bit more to go (so nearly 250kph real speed), and I am more than happy with that for a big diesel dog carrier!! Still looks and drives perfect (touch wood!), and have absolutely zero plans on changing it any time soon: it's fast, comfortable, has a massive load space, Quattro for the awful weather and on super-long motorway journeys, I can easily get 1000km's to a tank of fuel - the perfect all round car really!
Hi I'm thinking of buying a 2007 le man's and it has 389000 Kms ... I'm just wondering how yours is going now a year after your post . ..
Hello, just wanted to ask how much liters does it consume per 100km? City vs Open drive.
@@GreatUchiha123 I generally get 9.42 L/100km (30 mpg) in town and up to 7.06 L/100km (40 mpg) on a motorway. The best I've ever got was 6.57 L/100km (43 mpg) on a 725km (450 mile) run. (2005 3.0 TDi Avant)
Wait a minute. It can actually drive a 1000km without a refuel????
@@KM-jg2rc yeah definitely. You have to go about 95km/h consistently, no fast acceleration.
Broóoo. U must love Audi. You have not put this much detail into any other video !
true. but also this is one of the most common & oldest cars on his channel, so plenty of information regarding this car
All the information is still insufficient in this car.
I own one and I love it more than my health.
I regret selling mine. I had a 2008 with the 3.2fsi v6 and I swear to this day NOTHING HAS COME CLOSE TO HOW AMAZING THIS CAR TRULY IS! this is the ultimate daily car, I put nearly 140000km on mine and It was the most comfortable car and Decent HP for a daily. I had the Sline NON air suspension with AWD and it was a great car. When I get the chance I will be purchasing another one
Thanks dude! I am a 2007 Audi A6 C6 4F, Avant, Quattro S Line, 3.2L, owner here. None of the mentioned problems yet, I am at 200k only.
Definitely the drain holes needs to be cleaned!
had an A6 C6. Last autumn, drain holes got filled with leaves and water started coming inside the cabin.
Had to use a stick to clean the hole
the moon roof drain holes?
4 years later I came back to say that eventually I had to let go, my beloved A6 C6 Avant got to 250k and got tired of fixing it. Nothing unusual or expensive, it's been a great car, maybe the best. It had the 3.2 FSI , the most amazing engine ever!
I replaced with a 2015 A8L TDI, only 30 000 miles, so I should be good for the next 5 years or so...
I bought my A6 in November 2018 with just under 200k on the clock, it's 2009 year of production, facelift model with 2.7 engine and 190 hp. To this date I had no problem whatsoever, just regular maintenance. Currently it has 250k, inside almost like new, everything is solid, spacious, comfortable, made for cruising through multiple countries. It's the car I always wanted but wasn't able to buy one, now from my experience I can say that the car is really really great and I haven't regret one bit buying it 👍👌
ty
Lucky! I'm looking at a 3.0T quatro 2011 year. 60000 miles. $13000. Worth it?
About to buy a 2008 A6 3.2 myself with 200k or so miles. Fingers crossed!
I own a6 2005 limousine and i can tell i had exact same problems . Nice quality video.
I agree mate. He is a brother with an Audi
2.7 tdi or 3.2 fsi what do you think i should buy both 2005 a6
Siskat 2,7 tdi je super imao sam ga.Kupio sam ga bio s 160000 km i ja sam presao s njim 150000 km bez problema.Prodao ga s 310000 km.
@@64siskat96 2.7 tdi
I had the 3.2v6 of the c6 from 2008. I bought it with 38000km on it and it was reliable ish..... Mine had been sitting forawhile so some electrics were funny. After the dealership fixed them it was perfectly reliable. I had it serviced every 10000km and serviced the gearbox at 70000km and it was perfect. Never missed a beat and would highly recommend this model with the 3.2
lots of information in this video it's the best one I have seen,
I have a 2005 Avant sline 2.0 tdi with 227.000 miles on it
I have replaced 1 turbo 1 rear spring 2 rear brake caliper the same side both times
Oil pump failed but I pulled over instantly so no other damage
The heater blows full hot on the driver side every now and then I cleaned the valve once already must do it again
The inside flooded through the fire wall I got a stick and knocked that fancy drain valve out now there is a 1/2 in whole no more problems
I had to pull up the carpet to get the water out of the inside about 20 liters can live unseen under there be warned,
It ran rough for a year during that time I changed all the sensors and MAF EGR and a few vacuum lines each time it got better
Now it runs like new again
The rear window regulator is broken right now and the driver door lock won't work with the centeral locking so I use the key.
I love the car still after 8 years and it's unbelievably economical I get 47 mpg over all and 60 on a gentle motorway
Run
It's towed my 1700kg caravan and family all over Switzerland this summer.
It's a good car but luckily I have a very good and trusted garage to do all the work also another car to drive while it's in bits.
Audi I think made an unbelievably high quality car for the money
Lots have gone wrong on mine but nothing was highly expensive as I always fit remanufactured parts and honestly do you expect no problems on a 160.000 mile 7 year old car you bought 8 years ago that's now got 227.000 miles ??
Again I love this video
How much should I pay for a 2007 Audi Avant www.autotrader.ca/a/audi/a6/richmond/british%20columbia/5_47731445_20200124144948162?showcpo=ShowCpo&ncse=no&ursrc=ts&prx=100
I have 2005 2.0TDi A6 BLB engine, with PD injectors and hex shaft driven oil pump, on engine replaced twice egr valve,
Engine mount was changed electric one, just because fault in vcds.
throttle body was working but making tick sound at engine shutdown, got good deal on new, so changed.
1rocket broke, left valve open, didn't notice until was changing glow plugs, car was driving fine.
Injectors was checked during rocket change, was ok.
Milage 350k km, oil change 10k km 5w30
Change fuel filter every 2nd oil change.
Own car since 2008.
I've got a 2008 3.2 a6, this was the most thorough video I've ever seen! My car is leaking oil has timing chain noises the cabin smells like gas when it runs and it vibrates. It's at 240,000. After seeing this I realize I need to do over 5k of work on it 😂 it's not worth buying a used Audi. I've had mine since it was at 160,000 4 years ago
Absolutely nothing wrong with used Audi vehicles as long as you know what you're buying. 3.2 FSI says it all... but you probably know that already :) If you've done some research before purchase you'd have never even considered the A6 with this engine and 160K on it.
not bad going then if you've got 240k on the clock, all the more reason to buy one of these (keeping in mind the maintenance/checks mentioned on this video)
I have 2005 3.0 tdi with 350.000 km and it's running perfectly
@@draganz32 sounds like she's been maintained and probably parked in a garage lol I live in Canada it's -30 and I need to hurry to work sometimes takes a hard toll on any car I guess but mine was parked outside and I hardly did maintenance! I recently sold it for $2k lmao
@@shumushrif9204 regular maintenence is very important
Awesome video. This is the very first time i have ever been told to keep X amount of money aside for specific repairs to a car. This sort of buying advice should be standard practice by now.
I was wondering between this car and an a4 b7 1.9tdi, and eventually opted for the 1.9, much simpler, much easier to work on, got polybushes, quatrro converted it and got a "hard" flywheel when my DMF went out, mine is remapped to 150hp and 400nm absolutely no problems, runs like a dream :)
Spot on review, I had a 2008 2.7 V6 A6 allroad, suspension air strut failed at 100k miles, £1800 to fix, blue smoke at idle and black clouds at full acceleration, rear window wiper motor failed and leaked rusting the boot and passenger door actuator failed too.
i have a 2005 avant 2.0tdi its the first of the PD engines i got it in 2012 with 160.000 mils and it now has 235.000 mils in that time fitted a new turbo 400£ new oil pump remanufactured from Poland about 1000£ with all the labor
new MAF 120£ 1 front wheel bearing 2 parking brake calipers same side as i didnt get audi original part i cleaned the heater valve its been ok since new AC compressor 500£ it ran really rough for a year during that time i replaced all the air sensors and in the end i changed the EGR 120£ and that cured it anti shudder valve changed and the altinator clutch changed and the fan tensioner all new brakes and discs thats about it
it drives wonderfully and is incredibly economical a wonderful car your video is good but with some mechanical sympathy i think the 2.0 tdi of any vintage is a good buy.
i had a ford Mondeo for 5 years and it had the same problems come up every month my audi has had issues but once repairs are carried out they dont come back
i plan on keeping it for another 200.000mils
but am interested in getting an audi q7 as the family is expanding
thanks for the videos
keep it up 💪
Glad I found you cuz I wasn't even going to buy it cuz it had such bad reviews. I bought one with 200.000km with a leaking valve covers but with new suspension & no other problems. I paid $500, $75 for gaskets & she runs really nice.
I love your videos. You have improved sooo much over the years. Keep up the good work!
What a Brilliant Guide on what to look for. Im considering to by a 04 A6 3.2 fsi with a Manual trans.. I have to check for all the leaks and all the minor interieur details, so thank you very Much for this awesome guide!
Geat video. However, after viewing it, I just gave up up considering buying one for myself. Too many possible (and expensive) failures for my taste!! I guess I'll just keep my A6 Avant 1.9 TDI from 2001. Been happy with her and never left me hanging!
I love your reviews man! So useful for real buyers.
Awesome video! I already drive an a6 4f. I watched your videos before I bought my A6 but still love to watch your videos👍🏼👍🏼😃
It's amazing this guy is spot on.
I have the seat belt warning sound BRIGHTENen UP MY DAY every time I use it. Especially whilst excelarting hard.
I bought a audi a6 2.5 tdi quattro V6 1999 2k€ 280000KM I do not regret at all! Everything is great
I own a 2005 Audi a6 avant with 460.000km with the 3.0L TDI V6 engine,it runs like a dream,its very confy and has a very smooth ride,the only problem i had was the timing chain which costed me 1000euro,i replaced the gearbox because it got stuck into 3 gear,changed the ecu and the fuel injectors,it has a lot of options like heated seats,2 zone climate,electronic front seats,big radio,bose sound sistem,it isnt rusted at all,it has the quattro drive system and it has no problem in the snow what so ever,its my perfect daily and i love it,i dont plan on selling it in the next 5 years,i also used to own a 2004 a6 with the 2L tdi engine with manual transmision and i had no problems with it. Great cars,great build quality,perfect daily driver,never left me on the road.
At what mileage did you change the timing?
Got myself the 2.7tdi with stage 1 tuning. Almost clocking in on 436000km. Very reliable engine and transmission! 🤩👏🏽
Multitronic or Tiptronic?
Im considering buying an Audi A6 C6, do you think I it is a good idea to buy one with 300.000km or more? They are 3.0 TDI Quattro triptronic
A6 c6 Limusine sline 140 tdi, 450.000 kms, pulling like first day, awesome car.
We bought a A6 2.7 TDI le mans sline brand new back in 2008 it's done 247000 trouble free miles apart from service MOT tyres road tax and insurance and fuel we love it and has become our second Audi we will never sell her she is part of our family vorsprungdertecnick best car manufacturer period
There s a video on TH-cam how to cut one wire on the steering lock which deactivates it permanently! Or just rejoin if you want it back on . I did it myself took ten minutes. No worries about buying a new steering column now .
This is a great summary of the possible problems a buyer might encounter with these cars, thanks very much.
Your videos have always been organised and well detailed.. amazing stuff
I'm 99,9% likely to by one this week, wish me luck! I don't care, that it's a relatively basic A6 Avant model with 2.4 liter gasoline engine, since currently I drive 1995 rusty Golf III at the end of it's life cycle, so this definitely going to be an upgrade. XD
Great video! Very detailed and with some funny animations. As with any luxury car there can be various problems which will cost big money. The most dissappointint thing is the timing chain, which can worn at 200k kilometres. Otherwise this car is pretty solid, better than bmw and merc. More economical too
You forgot to talk about Abs module, MAF and parktronic module. These parts are prone to fail on these cars (at least at my 4.2 quatro sedan 2005). Your review is really almost perfect. Congratulations.
Great informative video. Not had made me think twice about getting one. High maintenance costs can be a problem for anyone.
This channel is the golden apple
Im probably one of the happiest owners of AUDI A6 C6 (4F2) 2007 3.0 TDI (171Kw without DPF!). I bought it at 2012 from our company with 96 000Km. Im not driving too much, now it has 186000 Km without any serious problem! I only changed sparkplugs, brakes, two door locks, front shoulders (axle?). Thats all. I feel, that suspension is getting worn out, but no leaking. Great car, but sadly only limousine and im expecting second child, so we need change it for some combi. Selling it will really break my hearth.
Nice memes using you got there ❤
I have the allroad c6 3.0 tdi tiptronic and don’t have any errors, the suspension works really well at any height level. When I replaced the back springs, initially I got an error (yellow car warning) at any level except on dynamic mode, I suspected the valve block which is close to the compressor, but then, I didn’t have any error, working properly. What Im referring, its not a leak from the springs, it gets out from the compressor through the air filter inside. Opening or closing the door, I hear the relay 4x and then a leak during 1 second.
Great video. I'm getting a C6, and now know exactly what to look for when buying! I'll make a list of things to check when testing.
I had the injector seals fail.I started hearing the hissing sound+fuel smell in the interior I drove for a few days and decided to fix it.They charged me less than 60€ to fix not one bot both sides so all of them.The seals themselves were like 15€ and it took about 2-3 hours…I just got off a video from someone saying just one is about $350 for one side, or $750 for both sides…Crazy
Another quality video..
Well done and keep up the good work.
I bet u are from Hungary. Nagyon jok a videok igy tovabb . 👍💪
I have this car s line plus edition 2008 3.0tdi egr , flaps and dpf removed plus chip tuned, its a beast at 221kw. Funny thing is half of the problems you claimed i already had on this car :), half way there. Nice review
176kw Fl?
Great video, alot of details, I see you put a lot of work in it !!!
(and I bought the car by the way, after watching your previous A6 C6 video, I bought an Audi A6 2.0tfsi)
anel115 how many kms and any problems so far? I am thinking of buying a A6 too
@@parvizazimov7009 Hallo Parviz, I bought mine from the second owner, so it was in a very good condition, I own mine 5 weeks and did 4000 kilometers, only small thing I had is the airbag light came on but after cleaning the connector and connecting it, it was fixed, a family member of mine has one for like 10 years without any problems and is still enjoying it, my advice would be to buy one that is in a very good condition (body/engine) en has a maintance record, (dont buy the cheapest with no history) then im sure you will have a great car with little maintaince.
@@anel115 After 2 years, have something gone wrong, replaced and such things?
Another important thing is the crankshaft position sensors. It is really cheap to replace them, but it you do not do it, the car can leave you stranded.
Good job on putting so much work into a high quality video like this! Maybe you can also use this format for other vehicles.
I had a a 2005 A6 Avant 3.0ltr sold at 65000 miles. Expensive work was Injectors at 45K Miles £3000 ! and ignition lock £700 and MMI Electrics replacement under warrantees due to water leek. Otherwise never missed a beat.
Very nice . Very detailed a gift not possessed by many video makers.
amazing channel! the most usefully car videos of all web. Perfect video style!
Thank you for this much appreciated. I've had a B7 2.0L a4 avant s-line manual quattro for years and thinking about picking up a 2007 A6 C6 s-line quattro in the 3.1l v6 for run around in a different country.. seems like you can't change much about it and it's a decent car for cheap.. famous last words :)
damn im thinking about A6C6 or A4B7 did you like your B7? was it good?
Unbelievably detailed review! Excellent!
Excellent review, I'm just looking for the other A6 video about the steering lock 'Stranded because of this'?
There are some videos to help you replace just the switches instead of the entire steering column, most times it's really a bad battery that doesn't supply enough power. If you're in Canada, Ontario I can help.
Hey, could you give me some advice as to how to prevent the leak @ 8:00
I got an A6/C6 with 300,000 miles and still runs perfect…do your maintenance people
Have had 2.7 tdi manual for two years now. Minor repairs, but after watching this video thinking of selling it 😅😅
Very good idea to Remake your previos reviews with more information!
7:15 i just bought used c6 and it occasionally pulls up these 2 lights in dashboard. So is it always because of parking brake? cuz it pops up sometimes in the middle of driving and sometimes when im standing still. When i stop the engine and start it, it disappears. Someone know something about it?
Mine has TV. In 5 years, I have used it once while doing a beer run during the snooker championship final
damn, I always wanted to have a TV in the car :D even though I don't watch much TV
Thank for the video, very informative, useful and detailed! I am looking to buy one of these and did test-drive earlier today. I get mild vibration from steering wheel and pedals on start-up before driving off. Doesn't seem normal and would appreciate your opinion on this issue (I haven't been able to find anything related to this yet)
waw!!!! just perfect man! keep up the great work!!!!
Magyar orszagi vagy :). Cool content keep up the work.
Can you make a video about the vw scirocco 2008-2014?
Great video, although really makes me think hard about just buying a totally different car!
WoW, could you do the same review to W211 too please, after the E60 and C6?!
Which one of these 3 you would choose and what engine? 👀
F Gj i can speak on behalf of e60. Dont buy one with a N series gasoline engine. 2004 models still have M series engines which are pretty reliable. Automatic transmissions will not be perfect if it hasn’t been maintained.
Thank you for your time and effort making this vid.
Hello! I’ve bought an Audi A6 C6 4F from 2010 (facelift) with the 3.0 TDI 240hp engine. I could have bought the E60 as well with the 286hp engine but I chose the Audi. Do you think I did the right choice? Is the A6 more comfortable and more quiet? My friend also said that the accelerator pedal was better on the bmw.. He said that the organ type was better than the suspended type… What do you say?
-E60 has better handling, better steering feedback, better weight distribution and yes also better accelerator pedal response. E60 is more of a "drivers car" than the A6. + it can have more optional equipment like night vision, ventilated front seats or HUD. But it also has slightly worse reliability of the electronics than the A6 (even though A6 can have some issues too).
-The A6 is on the other hand an "all season car". The quattro 4wd is much better than the xdrive in the E60, with the optional air suspension its more comfortable, its very stable at high speeds on the highway at any wheather, it has better built interior, better sound system and better multimedia system than the old iDrive in the before facelift E60.
the engine in the 535d is very good - plenty of power and fairly good reliability, but the problem is that plenty of these cars are abused, badly maintained and already in bad/worn condition because of the cheap price and powerful engine which attracts plenty of "wanna be street racing drivers/drifters"
overall your choice of the A6 with the 3.0 TDI is not bad at all, if its in good condition then it will last a very long time, if you want to see all the issues the 3.0 TDI can have check out this video: th-cam.com/video/_so6yhV5qXE/w-d-xo.html
I have an Audi A6 C6 Avant with the old fashioned screen but has navigation.
Great video. is it worth buying Audi A6 S line Quattro 2010 with TFSI 3.0 Engine in 2021? The car has done almost 185k.
This is the most beautiful Audi ,A6 C6 😍😍🎖🥇❣️
Very original and objective documentary. I have such a car and it has all the problems mentioned, respect the author.
One other issue about the automatic gearbox. I am well aware that people go on that 'sealed for life' is a joke and should be ignored in favour of doing a fluid change, however, as I said elsewhere - mine is at approx 330,000 km's and I have NEVER touched it. Too many stories on both sides, so I decided to adopt the position that 'if it isn't broke, don't touch it!' The box still changes as quickly and as smoothly as the day I bought it over 10 years ago, so I'm going to continue to accept the original declaration that it is better off being 'sealed for life' and leave it well alone!
Good to hear an alternative view on the A6 auto gearbox, do you have the multi tronic CVT gearbox or triptronic.
@@hamwicbi1265 Tiptronic - it was actually the only gearbox available for my version (3.0TDi Quattro). As of Thursday just gone, it now has 332,000 (just over 207,000 miles) after a 400km round trip. Have to do same trip again tomorrow with another few hundred kilos of gear in the back, and no doubt neither the car nor myself will feel it again. Oh, and thanks to the two long trips in such quick succession, I'll be crashing through the famed '1000km per tank' barrier tomorrow too (which admittedly is rare due to most of my usual driving being stuck in traffic!). I simply cannot fault this car (touch wood!) ;)
Orfan Productions you give me some confidence for my auto gearbox thanks
Lifespan of a car which is typically accepted as 10 years. Not lifespan of human
My A6, V6, 3.0, quattro, year 2005, ... problem culum lock a few years until I replaced it... a real horror in the middle of the road if you suich the engine will be not sure if the car startet again, even partially found I was looking for a lot of work as it had to be special ..., then there was water from the blockage of the canals, some generic services , and in the 15th year of production requires engine chain service.
There were no other problems, I am generally satisfied.
This video was excellent!! tank you for making it! :D
Im looking at buying my second A6 with the 3.2 and have a question. The owner has put in the ad "The mechanics are strong and regularly serviced, despite a tendency to shake at idle due to a leaky fuel-injector that otherwise has no effect on the driving experience." is this a common issue? I was looking online and parts are really cheap to repair this but does this sound right?
It's unlikely, the injectors if leaking are probably because they took the upper intake runners off and not change the o-rings, or relube them before putting it back together. Audi recommends changing the o rings on the injectors each time you take off the runners but most just relube and put it back because of the price of them from Audi
Watching your videi, it came a question into mt head: can you tell me a good car, to recomend me? Something good? Tnx...
Depends of your definition of "good". If an economy shitbоx that does not break down as often and is cheap to repair is "good" to you, than it is a bit sad. It is like choosing an ugly old boring wife, because "she does not spend much money". What is the point... Get a beautiful, young, interesting wife and live with the high expences. I am talking about a car in this context. Now, if you don't care about cars or driving, or even hate it, then just get some Dacia shitbоx, because it is cheap to buy and repair...
@@DashCamSerbia so Dacia, yea, that's the answer. Hvala lepo, neighbour! I will buy OUR Dacia!😏😉💪
Absolutely great info, quality work. Greetings
Very good video! How much time does it take approx for the car to lift from normal to lift?
Looking for a 2.8 Tiptronic with Quattro AWD system, this was very helpful. Thanks man!
I like his accent "vird sounds", I like this guy.
Where you take this price? People dont worry is a nice car! I driving 3years this all problems can easy fix, parts can buy second hand for replace or cheap analog.
how many km
Can I use music in a car by using phone bluetooth...?
Not as standard. You can get Bluetooth adapters on the likes of ebay for about €20 that connect to the AMI port and you can then connect your phone to that
Hi DCR - thanks for your review. I've got the 3L TFSI supercharged model. It's still low kms and running beautifully. But if I was to hear the Cam chain rattle sound, you believe changing the top two tensioners will likely fix it and that job can be down with the engine ensitu?
yes, it will most probably fix the rattle and you can replace the upper tensioners without removing the engine
@@differentcarreview-dcr - Thankyou for your reply. Much obliged.
Might not be the tensioners though, the 3.0T is louder and more rattly than the c6 being a turbocharged engine. Unless it's a clatter, I wouldn't worry about it. Go look at some dealers with used ones and compare the sounds.
Is oil change in the automatic gearbox included in the service scheme? I mean do the dealer recomend it to be changed or do people usually not change it?
The audi dealer says the tiptronic oil is lifetime. However, the ZF says you need to change every 80-100k kms depending you drive type. 😉
Are the cars with the sport suspensionlower than the ones with the normal suspention?
1:24
Confusing? Just use vocal commands, press the voice command button on the steering wheel.
Get the 6.5 and avoid anything air suspension.
I have a yellow and green car shaped light on my dash in my 3.2 V6 Quattro. The yellow car-shaped lighg has two stacked yellow dots. The green car-shaped light has a green down arrow on it. What does these lights mean?
how likely will i be able to get a 160k km model allroad 3.0tdi to 300k. assuming preventive maintence. really would love response from high milage owner
My friend had one, it got him around 350k and every summer he would drive 1500+ km to his summerhouse. Aside from regular maintenance he only put premium gas and fuel injector cleaner
You have good videos. Please make video for buying a used bmw 7 series that start from 2016. Good luck.
My A6 3.2 FSI Quattro consumes 17-19l/100km city and 9.5-10.5 l/100km highway. Other than fuel consumption can confirm that everything in the video is correct. Looking forward to see your comparison of A6 C6 & C7 generations since I wanted to buy C7 but not completely sure if I should.
I bought a c7 but sold them, the 3.0T is a supercharged engine, I find it noisier and more complicated than the c6. Bought another c6, I like the styling and uniqueness of the car alot more personally
bro i need your help: theres an 3.2 fsi 2005 a6 quattro with about 150k for 3000€ do you think its a good buy?
Do the same issues occur in the Audi A4 b6/7 's? i would love if you can do a video explaining that well Audi A4 B7 issues,costs and fixes. Thanks! :)
So,the A6 C6 4.2i mpi engine is good or not recommended?
Man this was a very good video. I like your accent :) Very informativ video. I want to buy a 2008 Avant with the 2.7 diesel engine. About 165 000 km. Hope it will make me happy. Had a a4 b7 bevor and i had a motor damage at 305 000km. But it was my fault too, not only the car. We all get wiser eith the years and mistakes we did. thanks fot he video. Very iformative!
19:09 a broken aux belt will not leave you stranded. just continue driving - you have no powersteering and climate though and have to avoid draining the battery :D
Hello, awesome video, I have discarded lots of multitronic versions from my searching / list!
I need your help / opinions please:
I found a 2005 Audi A6 V8 Triptonic without quattro vs a 2006 Audi A6 V6 3.2 FSi quattro , which one would you buy if the 2005 Audi is 1000 Euros cheap than the v6 fsi? I dont know if the 2006 is triptonic or multitronic, even if its triptoonic, as I far I know, quattro versions got air suspensions by default making this v6 less reliable?
Hi
-all the V8 and all the quattro versions are always equipped with the tiptronic, + the V8 models always have the quattro 4wd system
-the air suspension was always optional, so only the Allroad versions have it as standard (if the car you are looking at has air suspension then of course sooner or later you have to expect leaking air struts and worn out air compressor)
if you are asking which one to buy the 2005 4.2l V8 or the 2006 3.2 FSI, then this mostly depends on the condition of the car and the mileage, since both of these engines can withstand a lot with regular maintenance, so they dont really have any serious issues, but:
-both of these engines have a timing chain mechanism which can be worn after approx. 200 000 km-mainly if the previous owner have not changed the oil often, so listen for a short rattle at cold start which is the sign of a worn chain
-the 3.2 FSI can have a noticeable amount of carbon build up on the intake valves + it can have faulty injectors-causing misfires, as the other direct injection engines
+ the various oil or coolant leaks can be more expensive to fix on the V8 engine
@@differentcarreview-dcr Thank you, sorry for my late answer.
I will go for the V6 3.2 Fsi, it got 112, 000 km, instead the V8 which got 200k km.
The V6 3.2 fsi quattro looks nice, I will follow all the tips before purchasing it mate! Thanks
How reliable r the Audi c7 a6 with the 3.0t and which transmission is best to pick s Tronic or multitronic?
Hello, the front suspension of my car fell, I changed the inclination sensor, but there is no activity on the display, the car is in comfort mode, the car can be driven, but raising and lowering the car does not work. Can help.
Great cars, only buy late model and it must be 3.0tdi quattro with proper auto gearbox, had two both excellent.