I have done this, made several hundred liters of Bio some years ago. I was driving a Toyota Prado KZTE engine. Few Problems: 1. Not as easy as you might think to collect the oil. Fast food shops have agreements already OR staff take it. 2. That cleaning / post production process is VERY important - the diesel will look clear but still has soap dissolved in it. 3. Be prepared to get Diesel Filter Warning light come on when you run it pure. ( I had to change my diesel filter) BUT the car ran just fine on it: Mixed 50/50 AND once I ran a full tank just home made Bio. I stopped making because I could not get enough oil to make it worthwhile.
@@CatDaddyx2 bio diesel in small ( say 50 liter) quantities is very doable, fun, and a cheap way to run a small older diesel motor. IF you can get regular veg. Oil supply. ( For free)
When making fuel from vegetable oil you should wash the fuel after extracting the glycerin. If You use too much sodium hydroxide the final product can have some dissolved NaOH in the liquid making it slightly basic which can slowly damage fuel lines an the engine.
@@MrWeiserrr You literally 'wash' it in clean hot water. Then you wait for the oil/water to separate and then drain off the water. Finally you should dry the oil to remove any remaining moisture. You do that by adding calcium carbonate to the oil and leaving it a day or two.
@@brianmurphy8790 cheers !! I genuinely thought that as he didn’t elaborate on the word “wash” !🤯! why is this not wide spread knowledge, I’m gonna have to start doing this & stock pile it for when SHTF. Nice pic btw I guess you could say I’m from the house of Lancashire 😉
@@MrWeiserrr this stuff will last about ten years at room temp. so you may be better off storing the base components instead and making the fuel as needed after shtf.
You normally "wash" with water the oil after filtering to remove rests of soap. To avoid creating foam, you should nebulize water above the oil. Water is more dense so it will travel downwards and settle on the bottom, taking the soap with it. To remove the water you just need to have a valve on the bottom and empty the tank until there is no more water. You do this as many times until you get clear water on the bottom.
if you are going to make alot of biodiesel and have large waste oil supply i really recommend to get centrifuge filter to make the filtering way easier and better
Vaccum filters suck at processing in bulk. Centrifuge filters pull contaminants and water which iirc vaccum filters will not. No physical "filter" so no need to replace anything really. Hefty investment at $1500~ sure but that pays itself off in 5-6 tank fulls on my 50 gal truck. $300 to fill the tank, or a 1 time $1500 purchase to filter my own at $1 gallon or less? Sold.
have you thought about using a dryer before putting this in your car? I have to say, you showed a much healthier respect for safety than many of the youtubers here, in North America!
Among the many other things I did with _Pisco sin Fronteras_ down in Pisco Peru, I ran the biodiesel rig for three months. I used 100% biodiesel in the volunteer truck which routinely pulled a heavy cement mixer, equipment and around twenty volunteers packed inside/outside. The centerpiece of our biodiesel rig was a converted hot water heater, the element inside provided the heat. External to this was a network of piping to move the product around and a number of valves to direct the flow. There was an inline filter and several large tanks for three rounds of filtering with bubbled air in each. Honestly, we just left the ethanol residue in the biodiesel which does no harm to the end product. As for the drained-off glycerin, this then was used to manufacture soap which we sold. We provided clean buckets to the local restaurants and once each week made a pickup of used cooking oil from them. I note that it doesn't get too cold down in Peru, to be honest. Be prepared to replace your car/truck's fuel filter once or twice after switching to biodiesel since the fuel is soapier (some glycerin) and will internally clean your engine as a result, the residue from your engine then potentially clogging that filter. I'll throw out there that this was an older-style diesel truck with glow plugs which I'd suggest would be optimal for this.
This process is usable only for older diesel engines, not for newer common rail / PD engines. I had old car (VW Golf 1,9 SDI from 1997 year) and it runs about 100 000km on home made bio diesel (FAME = Fatty acid methyl ester)
well said new engines with catylytic converters and partical filters don't do well either , not the engine but all the sensors will go scatty and basically make your car unusable, if you have a tdi with a german fuel pump and viton seals youre golden, you'll use more fuel filters but it works ..Diesel engines were originally designed to run on this stuff no mention of heating either for some reason....
@@maximusboscus having tried to run newer vehicles on 100% biodiesel and seen what happens to for instance Lucas fuel pumps when in contact with biodiesel I can assure that there is nothing particularly wrong with the statement... All new diesel cars "should" be able to run with a small percentage of biodiesel because its already in the fuel but that doesnt mean they can run on it. In fact most new cars have so many sensors to reduce engine temperature and particulate filters that clog remove unburnt biofuels in stead of what theyre supposed to do that if you put even a meduim percentage of biofuel in a newer vehicle you will have an extremely expensive problem...fuel eating seals and fuel lines. pumps that clog up, filters that clog solid in the cold, exhaust gases that destroy the catalytic converter, and particulate filter. Manufacturers started out making cars that could run on biofuels and then redesigned them and gradually added peripherals that make it impossible for new engines to use even a half decent amount of biofuel.
Also you probably don't have the additives they use for Winterdiesel. And as you already stated: Without those the diesel gets too thick to properly flow when cold. Diesel gets pretty goey pretty fast. So in colder weather you might wanna use more Diesel from the gas station and less from you own production. Depending on how cold it gets where you live be careful about that.
You can have two tanks. One for diesel and one for bio diesel. You start the car with diesel and reroute the heat into the bio then switch to Bio diesel.
I used to run straight cooking oil in my mk3 transit, bought 1 trolley full at a time in tesco! It worked out great until the autumn set in and the oil got cold so the van was difficult to start. I got round that real easily by going on holiday and coming back when it got warm again.
@@mgrdigimarketing3035 really? So ive just stored them in my loft, right? And while we are examinating your profoundly stupid reply.... tell me what country dispenses cooking oil in pumps.
@@mgrdigimarketing3035the best way to recycle plastic containers from cooking oil (as well as almost all other plastics) is to heat them in an oxygen free environment and distill the resulting vapors.. which makes diesel.
Hi there. The older generators can use the cooking oil just as it is. But there is a faster and easier way to make biodiesel for your car, heat up the oil and mix in a couple of packets of gelatin. It collects all the impurities. Then you can mix the biodiesel with 50% normal diesel.
@foty8679 fair point. However, there is a patent on the gelatin method. It's significantly cheaper. The gelatin removes all the glycerin as well. It's a British patent. Once the gelatin has settled out, you mix 10% paraffin, and you are good to go. Obviously, you can add more paraffin if you want or a little gas station diesel. It's just a significantly easier and cheaper way to make the biodiesel.
We in Brazil use vegetable oil which can be those that are discarded from restaurants, or new soybean oil we mix it with diesel directly and it works very well, however this mixture is almost entirely used by farmers in their agricultural machines and in transport trucks. It helps the environment and reduces fuel costs.
putting oil into diesel does the opposite of saving the environment, it only saves money, you oil produces a lot more smoke and toxic fumes than regular fuel, but hey as long as you save a buck right?
@@keller_ just clarification Used cooking oil is recycled, as it can contaminate water. It is mostly used to extract glycerin and biodiesel. We don't have places to incinerate it as most os our electricity is hydropower based (70%). So we started to recicle it. Brazilian diesel is 10% plant based, part of the oil used is cooking oil processed to just extract the "biodiesel". All major truck and car brands are in Brazil and they pass in he Euro 7 emissions, using this mixture. If is is not clean enough to you, there is one more component, being plant based it will be reabsorbed after burn in the new crop being extremely eco friendly. In the same way we use ethanol to move our cars. We don't have just carnival and poverty, Brazil is more eco friendly than he entire Eurozone. Big problem is the deforestation.
from a veteran cook to you, warm up the oil first and it will flow quicker. Merely filling up you sink with hot water and placing the bottles in will help. however, if this is a serious hobby you could probably get an old discarded deepfryer and warm it up on ultra low, 250 degrees farenheight.
You missed one important step is to remove water content in used vegetable oil by distilling it before using Sodium hydroxide and methanol and filtering it in final product and also important to adapt your car for the use of new fuel .
great video Rulof. really like your style. titration at the beginning will improve the quality of the chemical conversion and washing at the end will clean-up the fuel ready for use
Alrighty, here are some tips from a chemist: First: safety. Sodium hydroxide in solid form isn't that bad, solutions are what is highly corrosive. (aka it was much more dangerous once you dissolved it. This is because as a solution it has much more surface area to react as it diffuses into your skin.) Although dust can be dangerous, since sodium hydroxide is hygroscopic, it will just stick and not really become airbourne. The way you handled the solution was kinda reckless. You could've easily spilled it on your exposed arms or even face (as you were holding it above your head) and that would've been pretty bad. Wear a lab coat, they are pretty cheap. Methanol is highly toxic, so bubbling it with air not only wastes some of it as it evaporates faster and thus reduces yield, but also isn't healthy, especially long term (also try to limit the amount of exposure of it to air in general. E.g. just the erlenmeyer flask just chilling there as you prepare everything else. just cover it with a watchglass or something. This also reduces the risk of anything else getting/falling in there) In the end you could see that it is still cloudy. This indicates that there are still particles in there (likely suspended soap & glycerine, which are bad for engines. Maybe even excess sodium hydroxide if too much was used.) So a post-processing step is necessary. Since all dissolve in water, you can use hot water. After that, just discard that watery layer and dry your bio diesel over some dessicant, like calcium chloride, silicon dioxide, etc.
In Sweden, the maximum limit for Bio Diesel at most petrol stations is 7%. it is seen that many car manufacturers specify it as a maximum limit in their diesel engines, but the petrol companies also insert HVO in the diesel. Then someone in the USA said that biodiesel is not so good for the particle filter and of course also the diesel filter. There can also be problems with algae in the tank
This doesnt have to take so long if you heat the oil from the start. That will also take care of the impurities in the oil so you dont need a sieve for that. Your caustic and methanol ratios is also wrong,too little. This will cause your biodiesel to set in very cold conditions.
I think this can also work well with ethanol. It's also cheaper because you can obtain high concentrations by pouring salt in vodka and the ethanol rises to the top of the solution. Obviously, the salt will need to be distilled out if used in an engine because it's corrosive but it's easier and faster to distill a solid from a liquid than a liquid from another liquid
Well as far as I know Ethanol is 1) a lot cheaper than diesel so it's still probably more profitable to make diesel than to make Ethanol and 2) most engines can't run on Ethanol.
@@teasippingguy9316 you'll be running the engine on biodiesel tho not ethanol and if it's cheaper it will just make your biodiesel cheaper. Not sure what the purpose of your comment is tbh
@@hantrio4327 But a lot of the methanol is obtained from natural gas so environmentally speaking it's still a fossil fuel source of carbon. Ethanol obtained by fermentation comes from carbon that was already in the atmosphere before so you won't be adding new carbon in.
If you don't want to use any harsh chemicals it is technically possible to distill used veggie oil and get the glycerin out but it's much more expensive
@@95rav Actually methanol is probably worse than NaOH. Their flame is almost transparent, is volatile so you may accidentally breath it. And in contact with eyes their vapours can cause severe damage. I was kinda surprised how he reacted to NaOH ( as I expected) but he didn't say anything about methanol.
I think it is easier to build a preheater into your diesel, and it is probably way easier to run an electric car directly from your solar array. Nice work showing the whole process of refining Biodiesel, I love that stuff!
This is why i love the old VW and mercedes diesels. Just filter the oil properly, put it straight in with a third normaly diesel and its runs perfectly AND you neighbourhood smells like fries.
Just Put the Salat oil in the Tank of an old Diesel Car. It will Work. But Not in a Common rail. It will Break your high pressure Pump. I did it with my old 190 D Mercedes more than 20 Years ago. It worked fine. At this time Diesel price has been raised. Salat oil from Supermarket was much cheaper. There we're also seperaten Tanks available which fitted into the spare tire Container in the Back. Start and Finish with normal Diesel with a switch. But after that they raised the price for Salat oil, those Bastards. The Car ran good. I built an extra heating Tube into the Diesel circle to keep it better flowing in Wintertime. But a 50:50 Mix with Diesel was Always better. I Loved the smell of a Grill Party, everytime I have got out of the Car. The examination of exaust Gases was allways better Then with normal Diesel.
Just a tip: compressed air is usually pretty dry, which will pull the methanol out of solution (methanol is even more volatile than ethanol). You should really mix it mechanically
The best option i saw on cleaning the cooking oil without using sodium hydroxide was to use gelatine mixed in water shake the oil up it up and leave it overnite it it separates the muck in the oil probably can reuse it again if you wanted to the gelatine tunrs into a hard gel so you just tip out the clean oil so its a simple process that way you could clean the whole 20 litres or two batchs of 10 ltrs at the same time and its ready to use the next day so much easier
If you are running your vehicle on engine oil, cooking oil , biodiesel I have found it to be better to mix 70% oil (whatever kind) and 30% petroleum, with this mix I have even been able to start my vehicle in -5. unfiltered engine oil straight out of an engine ( the engine has oil filter) idles nice nice to less smoke after sitting for a while Older Diesel cars will run on almost anything flammable as long as you can get it started. Quick tip if you ever get stuck and you have spray deodorant on you, spray that straight in the air in take well turning the car over, it will most likely start even in the coldest of temps
Its best to pour all the oil into a large vessel and and wait for the sediment to settle to the bottom. Then open a tap, fitted a couple of cm from the bottom, to drain off the clean oil.
Just wondering.... Do you know what the 'Pour/Gel/Cloud point of your Bio Diesel is? I have heard that it can vary on your source of the oil, then slightly on the process..... My cloud point seems to be close to 20 degrees Fahrenheit... and in my process... I (water) wash my Bio diesel, and then, I filter the oil after washing.... to make sure that I remove any thing left from the process
Sodium hydroxide is really not as dangerous as you think. Its reaction with the water in your methanol can be made much worse by the flask you used if boiling occurred. Your choice of container actually made it more dangerous than it otherwise would have been. The most dangerous part of handling it is when it is in a concentrated solution, and when that solution is hot.
Great guide. Wash it to remove acidity. Centrifuge it to remove impurities that the micron filter can't. Otherwise injectors are very expensive to service. It's possible to make a cheap centrifuge from a blender.
In an emergency situation I once used 20 litres of vegetable oil straight from the shop in my 2010 Toyota and it ran perfectly fine. Got me home ok and I wasn’t stranded in the middle of nowhere. Since then I’ve owned diesel cars for their high tolerance of using cooking oil as fuel. 😅
Means I can use it without adding some biodiesel from other gasoline station if im living in South east asia where the lowest temperature is at night around 20 degrees right?
Since the process takes a bit of time, I think you can decrease the amount of homemade in the car to protect it, like 20L from the g station and 5L homemade.
Хорошо получается, у нас все проще фильтруют и смешивают масло без всякой перегонки с бензином 1 к 3 и всё прекрасно работает, на больших двигателях от 2,5литра.)
You can, but in warm climates or during summer time. In winter you won't be able to power anything without adding heaters to the fuel tank and / or adding additives to the fuel
Make the oil warm for filtration and decant each bottle first to let 99% of the oil run through very quickly and then pour the junk in last and let it drip out for 30 minutes. If you want to use it as fuel for your car I'd wash the oil with some water to get the water soluble sh*t out of the oil. Some salt can be carried on with the oil. Why is the methanol yellow?
Actually, If your just making small batches then you can buy those little yellow bottles of HEET fuel additive as your methanol source. It helps to evaporate water in your fuel is it's normal use. , but here you can buy it in any auto parts store or Walmarts, and it's just methanol.
Sodium hydroxides not that dangerous, glasses are appropriate but the respirator is kinda overkill particularly for the hydroxide, I’d be more worried about the 2 liters of methanol.
Can I use Ethanol instead of water and as I see you can wash the soap out with water so is it okay to already use a 70% Ethanol 30% water mix from the beginning?
you can use ethanol but you´d have to have 100% ethanol which you can get by putting dry calcium chloride or epsom salt into 96% everclear, then react it with sodium hydroxide. being that ethanol is one carbon chain longer it will make the biodiesel a bit more viscous, so it would be better to make a 60:40 mix 40 being biodiesel. the more water you have in the reaction the more soap you´ll get which lowers yield and takes a bit more effort to take out, which should be done anyway, by spraying water into the biodiesel and then let it separate and either decant it or use a pipette to suck it up, afterwards you have to dry the biodiesel with dry calcium chloride. you can get by putting the salts into an oven and bake for some time, after that crush it to a powder and store it airtight with no humidity or use right away
Also regarding that the viscocity lowers with the temperature sure but that isn't the most important factor. when it comes down to diesels, FAME and kerosene/kerosine you have something called CP and CFPP first is cloud point the temperature when you first start noticing the impurities/parafine fraction. and the second is the cold filter prop blocking tendency that is when there are enough impurities that causes the liquid to not actually flow anymore both are temperature and mixture depended
KOH oder NaOH sind zwar stark ätzend aber du brauchst keine Maske um damit zu arbeiten. Ich würde empfehlen den Biodiesel nach abgeschlossener Reaktion mit Wasser zu waschen. Man geht folgendermaßen vor: Wasser in den Behälter geben, organische und wässrige Phase gut durchmischen (stark schütteln), die Phasen trennen. Der Vorgang wird wiederholt, bis das Wasser kein Tensid (Seife) mehr enthält. Wichtig: lieber öfter mit relativ wenig Wasser waschen als nach dem Motto viel hilft viel. Seife reduziert die Oberflächenspannung von Wasser. Kannst du eine Büroklammer auf der Wasseroberfläche ablegen, ist der Waschvorgang also abgeschlossen. Danach sollte die organische Phase getrocknet werden. Dafür einfach so lange Magnesiumsulfat in den Behälter geben, bis die Flüssigkeit transparent wird. Danach filtern und der Biodiesel ist sauber und trocken. 4 Tage warten reicht bei weitem nicht um die 2 L Methanol loszuwerden, austreiben mit heißer Luft wäre tatsächlich die bessere Option gewesen (oder auch waschen! Methanol ist polar, mischt sich also sehr gut mit Wasser). Aufpassen mit Lösemitteldämpfen, Methanol ist toxisch!! ohne Abzug in einem geschlossenen Raum damit zu arbeiten ist nicht unbedingt die beste Idee.
Why don't we boil the mixture until the alcohol evaporates and we can condense the resulting alcohol to use it well? What is the resulting quantity of diesel fuel and how much does a liter cost? Thank you. Greetings from Syria.
You have to be careful how Hot you get it, but if you take it up to 65 to 70 degrees Centigrade (do NOT Boil) you can warm the Alcohol and water out of the oil. Water washing with Fine Misting sprays to take out the fats still in the oil is a good Idea, and then Drain the water you can see and Warm it again to remove that residual water. It is a bit of "Mucking around", but it is cheaper than the "Rip Off" at the Bowser. In a Hot country Like Syria, you can Run 100 % Boi-Diesel, called B 100, it doesn't get cold enough to "Gel" the Fuel, you will have to replace your Fuel filters in your vehicle a couple of times a Year, and replace any Rubber Hoses, used for Fuel lines to Silicon Lines, because any methanol left in the Oil will erode the Rubber hoses.
I have heard of using gelatin to remove the water and gliserol from the used cooking oil. It congeals like the run off of your Christmas roast when left in the refrigerator. Much cheaper process.
You can literally pour cooking oil into a diesel car right of the shelf. Or clean it before using used cooking oil. Either way we use way less cooking oil than diesel and diesel in general is a huge polluter.
I dont know how it was in other countries but we in Germany had in the 90s and early 2000s tractors and agricultural machines and even passenger cars that were specifically built to burn plant oil directly to power their diesel engines until it was prohibited to build these and as far as i know even to burn plant oil. Some say that farms smelled like someone made tons of french fries there.
Hy, before I used the oil directly in the car with 50%. Sure you have to make a filtration, and it is better in summer time, because with the cold temperature, the oil become thicker. Kris
You can clean oil with gelatine, mix gelatine and hot water together then mix into oil, leave overnight, you will have a gelatine brick at bottom off oil with all contaminants.
You made a mistake 20 liters of oil and you set 2 liters of methanol so it is 10% not 25% like you wrote in th video. You can avoid filtering because it will go down with the glycerine. Boil oil before mixing. Good work.
A little detail I don't get regarding the ratio of the chemicals. You write 20% Methanol, but you added 2L Methanol to 20L of Oil. Wouldn't that be 10% if anything?
Despues de filtrar el aceite antes de ponerle el metoxido tienes que calentar el aceite para extraer el agua que tiene el aceite ya que una parte del aceite es agua despues se le añade el metoxido y se deja decantar la glicerina y el resultado es el que se limpia con un una piedra difusora de aire y ese resultado se vuelve a filtrar con un filtro de diesel para coche y el resultado ya puedes usarlo. Resumidamente. Hay un canal en español de un señor que tiene montado su chiringuito en el garaje y lo tiene muy profesional. Se llama Terrazocultor Jose Manuel, esta en TH-cam.
If you warm the oil in a pot to 54⁰ C and then mic it with the chemical and stirr it with an electric long arm wisk like the one the painters use...in less than 10 minutes it would split.
But ethanol or alcohol is probably not good for a diesel engine. professional manufacturers probably make sure that the final fuel does not contain alcohol? then they also have to think about things like cetane value. And the octane content of diesel is said to be around 40 somewhere
And here in Australia if the government gets knowledge of you making your own fuel, (by law) they can put their hand out for the excise/tax (about 40c) per litre.
In the UK it's OK to make it for your own use I think but if you sell it then the authorities will want their cut - and fuel tax in the UK is high so it's not appreciably cheaper than Diesel.@@challacustica9049
I have done this, made several hundred liters of Bio some years ago. I was driving a Toyota Prado KZTE engine. Few Problems:
1. Not as easy as you might think to collect the oil. Fast food shops have agreements already OR staff take it.
2. That cleaning / post production process is VERY important - the diesel will look clear but still has soap dissolved in it.
3. Be prepared to get Diesel Filter Warning light come on when you run it pure. ( I had to change my diesel filter) BUT the car ran just fine on it: Mixed 50/50 AND once I ran a full tank just home made Bio.
I stopped making because I could not get enough oil to make it worthwhile.
I agree- I run pure veggie oil in my car and even though its rewading its not easy, and the hardest part is getting hold of enough waste oil!
My dad owns a restaurant. I really need to take advantage of that it sounds like
@@CatDaddyx2 bio diesel in small ( say 50 liter) quantities is very doable, fun, and a cheap way to run a small older diesel motor. IF you can get regular veg. Oil supply. ( For free)
@@cameronmurie I got an old diesel kholer generator that I wouldn’t mind running on it
Can I use baking soda, Sodium Hydrocarbonate (Na2CO3) instead of sodium hydroxide (NAOH)?
When making fuel from vegetable oil you should wash the fuel after extracting the glycerin. If You use too much sodium hydroxide the final product can have some dissolved NaOH in the liquid making it slightly basic which can slowly damage fuel lines an the engine.
How do you “wash” the fuel ?
I was gonna say just that.
He never washed it!
@@MrWeiserrr
You literally 'wash' it in clean hot water.
Then you wait for the oil/water to separate and then drain off the water.
Finally you should dry the oil to remove any remaining moisture. You do that by adding calcium carbonate to the oil and leaving it a day or two.
@@brianmurphy8790 cheers !!
I genuinely thought that as he didn’t elaborate on the word “wash”
!🤯!
why is this not wide spread knowledge, I’m gonna have to start doing this & stock pile it for when SHTF.
Nice pic btw I guess you could say I’m from the house of Lancashire 😉
@@MrWeiserrr this stuff will last about ten years at room temp. so you may be better off storing the base components instead and making the fuel as needed after shtf.
You normally "wash" with water the oil after filtering to remove rests of soap. To avoid creating foam, you should nebulize water above the oil. Water is more dense so it will travel downwards and settle on the bottom, taking the soap with it. To remove the water you just need to have a valve on the bottom and empty the tank until there is no more water.
You do this as many times until you get clear water on the bottom.
Have you ever tried removing the soap with "water washing"?
if you are going to make alot of biodiesel and have large waste oil supply i really recommend to get centrifuge filter to make the filtering way easier and better
I think a vaccum filter is better(cheaper, Easy to find)
Vaccum filters suck at processing in bulk. Centrifuge filters pull contaminants and water which iirc vaccum filters will not. No physical "filter" so no need to replace anything really.
Hefty investment at $1500~ sure but that pays itself off in 5-6 tank fulls on my 50 gal truck. $300 to fill the tank, or a 1 time $1500 purchase to filter my own at $1 gallon or less? Sold.
I’m kind of a casual prepper, so I love watching videos like this.
I don’t think making diesel is casual prepping hahah
Long process but useful after WW3
Were do you get the Oil and Engine from? Oil is not easy to produce. Woodgas would be easier.
@@infestus5657 stale gas from cars. Motor oil. Cooking oil. Anything oil. All of it can be turned into biodiesel.
hope ww3 doesnt happen ....
Oh yes, because after ww3 you’ll still need to drive.
After WW3 you'd be better off with batteries and wind/solar
have you thought about using a dryer before putting this in your car? I have to say, you showed a much healthier respect for safety than many of the youtubers here, in North America!
Among the many other things I did with _Pisco sin Fronteras_ down in Pisco Peru, I ran the biodiesel rig for three months. I used 100% biodiesel in the volunteer truck which routinely pulled a heavy cement mixer, equipment and around twenty volunteers packed inside/outside. The centerpiece of our biodiesel rig was a converted hot water heater, the element inside provided the heat. External to this was a network of piping to move the product around and a number of valves to direct the flow. There was an inline filter and several large tanks for three rounds of filtering with bubbled air in each. Honestly, we just left the ethanol residue in the biodiesel which does no harm to the end product. As for the drained-off glycerin, this then was used to manufacture soap which we sold. We provided clean buckets to the local restaurants and once each week made a pickup of used cooking oil from them. I note that it doesn't get too cold down in Peru, to be honest. Be prepared to replace your car/truck's fuel filter once or twice after switching to biodiesel since the fuel is soapier (some glycerin) and will internally clean your engine as a result, the residue from your engine then potentially clogging that filter. I'll throw out there that this was an older-style diesel truck with glow plugs which I'd suggest would be optimal for this.
This process is usable only for older diesel engines, not for newer common rail / PD engines. I had old car (VW Golf 1,9 SDI from 1997 year) and it runs about 100 000km on home made bio diesel (FAME = Fatty acid methyl ester)
well said new engines with catylytic converters and partical filters don't do well either , not the engine but all the sensors will go scatty and basically make your car unusable, if you have a tdi with a german fuel pump and viton seals youre golden, you'll use more fuel filters but it works ..Diesel engines were originally designed to run on this stuff
no mention of heating either for some reason....
I have the same VW but 2003
This is actually wrong. Biodiesel eats away the rubber seals on old cars because they are not prepared for it. New cars are actually prepared for it.
@@maximusboscus having tried to run newer vehicles on 100% biodiesel and seen what happens to for instance Lucas fuel pumps when in contact with biodiesel I can assure that there is nothing particularly wrong with the statement...
All new diesel cars "should" be able to run with a small percentage of biodiesel because its already in the fuel but that doesnt mean they can run on it. In fact most new cars have so many sensors to reduce engine temperature and particulate filters that clog remove unburnt biofuels in stead of what theyre supposed to do that if you put even a meduim percentage of biofuel in a newer vehicle you will have an extremely expensive problem...fuel eating seals and fuel lines. pumps that clog up, filters that clog solid in the cold, exhaust gases that destroy the catalytic converter, and particulate filter.
Manufacturers started out making cars that could run on biofuels and then redesigned them and gradually added peripherals that make it impossible for new engines to use even a half decent amount of biofuel.
I did basically the same process for my 2003 1.9 pd in my passat. OM642 CR diesel and my V10 tdi all for many thousands of miles
Also you probably don't have the additives they use for Winterdiesel. And as you already stated: Without those the diesel gets too thick to properly flow when cold. Diesel gets pretty goey pretty fast. So in colder weather you might wanna use more Diesel from the gas station and less from you own production. Depending on how cold it gets where you live be careful about that.
Adding 1/10 of kerosene to the mix will probably help.
@@maxa.629kerosene is lighter than diesel and in uk it’s used as heating fuel
do it like the old timers and put a bit of gasoline in it
You can have two tanks. One for diesel and one for bio diesel. You start the car with diesel and reroute the heat into the bio then switch to Bio diesel.
Just add kerosene and methanol, it's not rocket science.
This is really interesting. All other sources made it sound incredibly complicated.
Yeah water and corn starch
maybe it should be complicated if you don't want your car's engine to fall apart?
I used to run straight cooking oil in my mk3 transit, bought 1 trolley full at a time in tesco! It worked out great until the autumn set in and the oil got cold so the van was difficult to start.
I got round that real easily by going on holiday and coming back when it got warm again.
So rather than pumping it you bought your fuel in plastic containers which your country probably doesn't recycle 😂 nice work
@@mgrdigimarketing3035 really? So ive just stored them in my loft, right? And while we are examinating your profoundly stupid reply.... tell me what country dispenses cooking oil in pumps.
@@mgrdigimarketing3035the best way to recycle plastic containers from cooking oil (as well as almost all other plastics) is to heat them in an oxygen free environment and distill the resulting vapors.. which makes diesel.
@@sasssquatch1467which now is sold in some countries under the Name r99 or hvo 100 !
Hi there. The older generators can use the cooking oil just as it is. But there is a faster and easier way to make biodiesel for your car, heat up the oil and mix in a couple of packets of gelatin. It collects all the impurities. Then you can mix the biodiesel with 50% normal diesel.
They will gunk up though, so its always better to put in the effort.
@foty8679 fair point. However, there is a patent on the gelatin method. It's significantly cheaper. The gelatin removes all the glycerin as well. It's a British patent. Once the gelatin has settled out, you mix 10% paraffin, and you are good to go. Obviously, you can add more paraffin if you want or a little gas station diesel. It's just a significantly easier and cheaper way to make the biodiesel.
@tranquility382
Did you trying such method, to get biodiesel?
We in Brazil use vegetable oil which can be those that are discarded from restaurants, or new soybean oil we mix it with diesel directly and it works very well, however this mixture is almost entirely used by farmers in their agricultural machines and in transport trucks. It helps the environment and reduces fuel costs.
putting oil into diesel does the opposite of saving the environment, it only saves money, you oil produces a lot more smoke and toxic fumes than regular fuel, but hey as long as you save a buck right?
only in your head that pollutes more@@keller_
@@keller_shut up cuck.
@@keller_ just clarification
Used cooking oil is recycled, as it can contaminate water. It is mostly used to extract glycerin and biodiesel.
We don't have places to incinerate it as most os our electricity is hydropower based (70%). So we started to recicle it.
Brazilian diesel is 10% plant based, part of the oil used is cooking oil processed to just extract the "biodiesel".
All major truck and car brands are in Brazil and they pass in he Euro 7 emissions, using this mixture.
If is is not clean enough to you, there is one more component, being plant based it will be reabsorbed after burn in the new crop being extremely eco friendly. In the same way we use ethanol to move our cars.
We don't have just carnival and poverty, Brazil is more eco friendly than he entire Eurozone. Big problem is the deforestation.
from a veteran cook to you, warm up the oil first and it will flow quicker. Merely filling up you sink with hot water and placing the bottles in will help. however, if this is a serious hobby you could probably get an old discarded deepfryer and warm it up on ultra low, 250 degrees farenheight.
You missed one important step is to remove water content in used vegetable oil by distilling it before using Sodium hydroxide and methanol and filtering it in final product and also important to adapt your car for the use of new fuel .
great video Rulof. really like your style.
titration at the beginning will improve the quality of the chemical conversion and washing at the end will clean-up the fuel ready for use
Alrighty, here are some tips from a chemist:
First: safety.
Sodium hydroxide in solid form isn't that bad, solutions are what is highly corrosive. (aka it was much more dangerous once you dissolved it. This is because as a solution it has much more surface area to react as it diffuses into your skin.) Although dust can be dangerous, since sodium hydroxide is hygroscopic, it will just stick and not really become airbourne.
The way you handled the solution was kinda reckless. You could've easily spilled it on your exposed arms or even face (as you were holding it above your head) and that would've been pretty bad. Wear a lab coat, they are pretty cheap.
Methanol is highly toxic, so bubbling it with air not only wastes some of it as it evaporates faster and thus reduces yield, but also isn't healthy, especially long term (also try to limit the amount of exposure of it to air in general. E.g. just the erlenmeyer flask just chilling there as you prepare everything else. just cover it with a watchglass or something. This also reduces the risk of anything else getting/falling in there)
In the end you could see that it is still cloudy. This indicates that there are still particles in there (likely suspended soap & glycerine, which are bad for engines. Maybe even excess sodium hydroxide if too much was used.) So a post-processing step is necessary. Since all dissolve in water, you can use hot water. After that, just discard that watery layer and dry your bio diesel over some dessicant, like calcium chloride, silicon dioxide, etc.
Mi fa un gran piacere vedere che stai espandendo la community al resto del mondo. Keep it up bro!
In Sweden, the maximum limit for Bio Diesel at most petrol stations is 7%. it is seen that many car manufacturers specify it as a maximum limit in their diesel engines, but the petrol companies also insert HVO in the diesel. Then someone in the USA said that biodiesel is not so good for the particle filter and of course also the diesel filter. There can also be problems with algae in the tank
Good use of the safety squint when using the grinder there!
I would highly recommend running it through a filter and fuel/water separater before putting in your vehicle
This doesnt have to take so long if you heat the oil from the start. That will also take care of the impurities in the oil so you dont need a sieve for that. Your caustic and methanol ratios is also wrong,too little. This will cause your biodiesel to set in very cold conditions.
I think this can also work well with ethanol. It's also cheaper because you can obtain high concentrations by pouring salt in vodka and the ethanol rises to the top of the solution. Obviously, the salt will need to be distilled out if used in an engine because it's corrosive but it's easier and faster to distill a solid from a liquid than a liquid from another liquid
Well as far as I know Ethanol is 1) a lot cheaper than diesel so it's still probably more profitable to make diesel than to make Ethanol and 2) most engines can't run on Ethanol.
@@teasippingguy9316 you'll be running the engine on biodiesel tho not ethanol and if it's cheaper it will just make your biodiesel cheaper. Not sure what the purpose of your comment is tbh
@@atrumluminarium nvm I thought you wanted to extract Ethanol and use that as fuel
@@atrumluminarium But methanol is way cheaper than ethanol especially if not denatured
@@hantrio4327 But a lot of the methanol is obtained from natural gas so environmentally speaking it's still a fossil fuel source of carbon. Ethanol obtained by fermentation comes from carbon that was already in the atmosphere before so you won't be adding new carbon in.
If you don't want to use any harsh chemicals it is technically possible to distill used veggie oil and get the glycerin out but it's much more expensive
BS.
And hydroxide isn't as dangerous as he makes it out to be: it is common drain cleaner. Use the same precautions.
@@95rav Actually methanol is probably worse than NaOH. Their flame is almost transparent, is volatile so you may accidentally breath it. And in contact with eyes their vapours can cause severe damage. I was kinda surprised how he reacted to NaOH ( as I expected) but he didn't say anything about methanol.
@@95ravYea just let a droplet of drain cleaner in your eye you'll see if it's not dangerous
@@Toukout44 I didn't say t wasn't dangerous, fuckwit.
underrated channel, wonderful production value
سأستعمل هذا الوقود في التدفئه
شكرا لكم معلومات قيّمه 🇸🇾♥️
وانا معك كمان 😂😂
حبايب البي form Yemen ههه
I think it is easier to build a preheater into your diesel, and it is probably way easier to run an electric car directly from your solar array.
Nice work showing the whole process of refining Biodiesel, I love that stuff!
This is why i love the old VW and mercedes diesels. Just filter the oil properly, put it straight in with a third normaly diesel and its runs perfectly AND you neighbourhood smells like fries.
I used biodiesel in a mk1 Berlingo for a few years, the engine always sounded better when running on it.
My friends VW T4 bus does not like diesel mixed with biodiesel.
Just Put the Salat oil in the Tank of an old Diesel Car. It will Work. But Not in a Common rail. It will Break your high pressure Pump. I did it with my old 190 D Mercedes more than 20 Years ago. It worked fine. At this time Diesel price has been raised. Salat oil from Supermarket was much cheaper. There we're also seperaten Tanks available which fitted into the spare tire Container in the Back. Start and Finish with normal Diesel with a switch. But after that they raised the price for Salat oil, those Bastards. The Car ran good. I built an extra heating Tube into the Diesel circle to keep it better flowing in Wintertime. But a 50:50 Mix with Diesel was Always better. I Loved the smell of a Grill Party, everytime I have got out of the Car. The examination of exaust Gases was allways better Then with normal Diesel.
Gut gemacht !
Just a tip: compressed air is usually pretty dry, which will pull the methanol out of solution (methanol is even more volatile than ethanol). You should really mix it mechanically
You are way underrated sir! Shame on the people who watch all your videos but subscribe. Keep it up brother! 👍🏼
The best option i saw on cleaning the cooking oil without using sodium hydroxide was to use gelatine mixed in water shake the oil up it up and leave it overnite it it separates the muck in the oil probably can reuse it again if you wanted to the gelatine tunrs into a hard gel so you just tip out the clean oil so its a simple process that way you could clean the whole 20 litres or two batchs of 10 ltrs at the same time and its ready to use the next day so much easier
Do not use it in a newer common rail diesel but for older pump types it works well.
Io uso olio di semi vari su una Fiesta TDCi da anni e nessun problema
If you are running your vehicle on engine oil, cooking oil , biodiesel I have found it to be better to mix 70% oil (whatever kind) and 30% petroleum, with this mix I have even been able to start my vehicle in -5. unfiltered engine oil straight out of an engine ( the engine has oil filter) idles nice nice to less smoke after sitting for a while
Older Diesel cars will run on almost anything flammable as long as you can get it started. Quick tip if you ever get stuck and you have spray deodorant on you, spray that straight in the air in take well turning the car over, it will most likely start even in the coldest of temps
Its best to pour all the oil into a large vessel and and wait for the sediment to settle to the bottom. Then open a tap, fitted a couple of cm from the bottom, to drain off the clean oil.
For quicker filtering, get a external oil filter housing and pump the oil through a micron filter. We used to do that with waste oil furnaces.
0:33 it's glowing you could wind a coil or use water boiler around i would say 159L could be easily use here
You can add a little bit of terpentine to the final mixture as it will greatly improve the viscosity of the biodiesel
Just wondering.... Do you know what the 'Pour/Gel/Cloud point of your Bio Diesel is? I have heard that it can vary on your source of the oil, then slightly on the process..... My cloud point seems to be close to 20 degrees Fahrenheit... and in my process... I (water) wash my Bio diesel, and then, I filter the oil after washing.... to make sure that I remove any thing left from the process
Look like you know your stuff.. Any online forum or resources you would recommend to learn more about this?
I run a Vw T4 2.5 tdi on 100% oil no matter whether engine- or vegetable oil I just used coffee filters and it runs perfect in summer.
What about winter time?
🤣🤣
At 3:30 you write 0.25% of NaOH
20% CH3OH but you have 2 liters of methanol alcohol, 20% of 20 liters equal 4 liters.
Sodium hydroxide is really not as dangerous as you think. Its reaction with the water in your methanol can be made much worse by the flask you used if boiling occurred. Your choice of container actually made it more dangerous than it otherwise would have been.
The most dangerous part of handling it is when it is in a concentrated solution, and when that solution is hot.
اعلم اني دخيل . بس هل زيت زيتون يمكن انتاج بيو ديزل
Seems ideal for oil lamps and heaters.
Yeah it’s pretty good to hear a house
@@jennyhammack5614 The question is: Does your house have anything interesting to tell you?
I wonder what your neighbours thought when they saw you with all this in your garage 😂
Meth lab😉🤣
You could literally make a sign " dump your waste oil here" and you get diesel for life
Great guide.
Wash it to remove acidity. Centrifuge it to remove impurities that the micron filter can't. Otherwise injectors are very expensive to service.
It's possible to make a cheap centrifuge from a blender.
Wow this is one of the few intros that's worth to not skip
In an emergency situation I once used 20 litres of vegetable oil straight from the shop in my 2010 Toyota and it ran perfectly fine. Got me home ok and I wasn’t stranded in the middle of nowhere. Since then I’ve owned diesel cars for their high tolerance of using cooking oil as fuel. 😅
Un itaiano che compare nel mio feed "strictly no italians"
Fantastico! Continua cosi, spero che spacchi internazionalmente. Te lo meriti
Means I can use it without adding some biodiesel from other gasoline station if im living in South east asia where the lowest temperature is at night around 20 degrees right?
is it as such easy to synthesize bio diesel ! ! 1 question only , is it possible from ethanol in place of methanol ? thank you so much !
You can change the methanol for ethanol(is actually more safe to use ethanol)
Since the process takes a bit of time, I think you can decrease the amount of homemade in the car to protect it, like 20L from the g station and 5L homemade.
isnt the end relt still dangerous because of the sodium hydroxide ?
Хорошо получается, у нас все проще фильтруют и смешивают масло без всякой перегонки с бензином 1 к 3 и всё прекрасно работает, на больших двигателях от 2,5литра.)
You can, but in warm climates or during summer time.
In winter you won't be able to power anything without adding heaters to the fuel tank and / or adding additives to the fuel
looks very easy to do at home. thank you
In Serbia, but golf mj2, put unfiltered oil with an disel 1:1, and wholaaaa you have bio disel, trust me it works :).
for mixing instead of air you can use computer fan with one broken blade and attach it to vibrate outside the container...
WIth the cost of the extra chemicals needed is it still worthwhile? Where I am it seems that there is no savings.
Nice. Do you frequently change the fuel filter of your fiat?
Make the oil warm for filtration and decant each bottle first to let 99% of the oil run through very quickly and then pour the junk in last and let it drip out for 30 minutes. If you want to use it as fuel for your car I'd wash the oil with some water to get the water soluble sh*t out of the oil. Some salt can be carried on with the oil. Why is the methanol yellow?
Well explained👍🏼 only problem is that methanol is too expensive for that to make sense.
Love from Austria 💚
Look for methyl hydrate, it is just another name for methanol. Sadly, the price has also increased from $10/Liter to now $20/Liter CAD..
Buy from México is cheap
Actually, If your just making small batches then you can buy those little yellow bottles of HEET fuel additive as your methanol source. It helps to evaporate water in your fuel is it's normal use. , but here you can buy it in any auto parts store or Walmarts, and it's just methanol.
Methanol is not expensive
Sodium hydroxides not that dangerous, glasses are appropriate but the respirator is kinda overkill particularly for the hydroxide, I’d be more worried about the 2 liters of methanol.
Used on my benzin car and it worked very well
Can I use Ethanol instead of water and as I see you can wash the soap out with water so is it okay to already use a 70% Ethanol 30% water mix from the beginning?
you can use ethanol but you´d have to have 100% ethanol which you can get by putting dry calcium chloride or epsom salt into 96% everclear, then react it with sodium hydroxide. being that ethanol is one carbon chain longer it will make the biodiesel a bit more viscous, so it would be better to make a 60:40 mix 40 being biodiesel.
the more water you have in the reaction the more soap you´ll get which lowers yield and takes a bit more effort to take out, which should be done anyway, by spraying water into the biodiesel and then let it separate and either decant it or use a pipette to suck it up, afterwards you have to dry the biodiesel with dry calcium chloride. you can get by putting the salts into an oven and bake for some time, after that crush it to a powder and store it airtight with no humidity or use right away
How much salt and water is in there? Doesn't diesel need adaptive for the high pressure injection pumps?
recomend getting safety glasses rated for liquids. You're using particle protection only.
Also regarding that the viscocity lowers with the temperature sure but that isn't the most important factor. when it comes down to diesels, FAME and kerosene/kerosine you have something called CP and CFPP first is cloud point the temperature when you first start noticing the impurities/parafine fraction. and the second is the cold filter prop blocking tendency that is when there are enough impurities that causes the liquid to not actually flow anymore both are temperature and mixture depended
if you got a cummins just put the oil straight in in with a bit of regular diesel roughly 80/20 mix and it should cherp it down np
KOH oder NaOH sind zwar stark ätzend aber du brauchst keine Maske um damit zu arbeiten. Ich würde empfehlen den Biodiesel nach abgeschlossener Reaktion mit Wasser zu waschen. Man geht folgendermaßen vor: Wasser in den Behälter geben, organische und wässrige Phase gut durchmischen (stark schütteln), die Phasen trennen. Der Vorgang wird wiederholt, bis das Wasser kein Tensid (Seife) mehr enthält. Wichtig: lieber öfter mit relativ wenig Wasser waschen als nach dem Motto viel hilft viel. Seife reduziert die Oberflächenspannung von Wasser. Kannst du eine Büroklammer auf der Wasseroberfläche ablegen, ist der Waschvorgang also abgeschlossen. Danach sollte die organische Phase getrocknet werden. Dafür einfach so lange Magnesiumsulfat in den Behälter geben, bis die Flüssigkeit transparent wird. Danach filtern und der Biodiesel ist sauber und trocken. 4 Tage warten reicht bei weitem nicht um die 2 L Methanol loszuwerden, austreiben mit heißer Luft wäre tatsächlich die bessere Option gewesen (oder auch waschen! Methanol ist polar, mischt sich also sehr gut mit Wasser). Aufpassen mit Lösemitteldämpfen, Methanol ist toxisch!! ohne Abzug in einem geschlossenen Raum damit zu arbeiten ist nicht unbedingt die beste Idee.
Why don't we boil the mixture until the alcohol evaporates and we can condense the resulting alcohol to use it well? What is the resulting quantity of diesel fuel and how much does a liter cost? Thank you. Greetings from Syria.
You have to be careful how Hot you get it, but if you take it up to 65 to 70 degrees Centigrade (do NOT Boil) you can warm the Alcohol and water out of the oil. Water washing with Fine Misting sprays to take out the fats still in the oil is a good Idea, and then Drain the water you can see and Warm it again to remove that residual water. It is a bit of "Mucking around", but it is cheaper than the "Rip Off" at the Bowser. In a Hot country Like Syria, you can Run 100 % Boi-Diesel, called B 100, it doesn't get cold enough to "Gel" the Fuel, you will have to replace your Fuel filters in your vehicle a couple of times a Year, and replace any Rubber Hoses, used for Fuel lines to Silicon Lines, because any methanol left in the Oil will erode the Rubber hoses.
@@scottcarr3264 Thank you for your interest and response. Greetings to you from sad Syria
Dziękuje, to bardzo pomocny materiał. Mój vw passat 1.9 tdi chętnie łyknie takiego drinka!
I have heard of using gelatin to remove the water and gliserol from the used cooking oil.
It congeals like the run off of your Christmas roast when left in the refrigerator.
Much cheaper process.
There seems to be too much residual moisture in the fuel. It should be clear, not cloudy. Needs drying (and likely washing before that).
You can literally pour cooking oil into a diesel car right of the shelf. Or clean it before using used cooking oil. Either way we use way less cooking oil than diesel and diesel in general is a huge polluter.
Can you extract the glycerin with... say, baking soda, or another base that is more “engine friendly” from the start?
You can filter all of your oil in the same time with starch! They bind all the stuff togehter and after that you have clear oil.
Put oil in big container. Warm oil to 40° C and let all particles settle. Turn off heat allow oil to congeal into solid mass. Scoop out particles
I just spin up to Northern Ireland and get the scrubbed Agri diesel)))
Hi Mr Cornflake. I am from His Majesty's Customs. I am going to arrest you)))
I dont know how it was in other countries but we in Germany had in the 90s and early 2000s tractors and agricultural machines and even passenger cars that were specifically built to burn plant oil directly to power their diesel engines until it was prohibited to build these and as far as i know even to burn plant oil. Some say that farms smelled like someone made tons of french fries there.
I use an oil pump with 2 filters filtering down to 5 micro meters attached to pump it in the tank. This way there are no stains whatsoever.
произношение топ! я со своим средним английским понял всё) лайк!
Hy, before I used the oil directly in the car with 50%. Sure you have to make a filtration, and it is better in summer time, because with the cold temperature, the oil become thicker. Kris
Plain and Simple but process can be REFINED further.
Thanks for a very good video, we appreciate a lot.
You can use matala filter in 5 gallon bucket and filter a lot quicker.
You can clean oil with gelatine, mix gelatine and hot water together then mix into oil, leave overnight, you will have a gelatine brick at bottom off oil with all contaminants.
what are the proportions?
@@BibleWondersUnveiled look at 1784 robert murray-smith biodiesel, for all info.
You made a mistake 20 liters of oil and you set 2 liters of methanol so it is 10% not 25% like you wrote in th video. You can avoid filtering because it will go down with the glycerine. Boil oil before mixing. Good work.
Perhaps doing a final filtration before putting your homemade BD in your vehicle would be even better.
A little detail I don't get regarding the ratio of the chemicals. You write 20% Methanol, but you added 2L Methanol to 20L of Oil. Wouldn't that be 10% if anything?
Despues de filtrar el aceite antes de ponerle el metoxido tienes que calentar el aceite para extraer el agua que tiene el aceite ya que una parte del aceite es agua despues se le añade el metoxido y se deja decantar la glicerina y el resultado es el que se limpia con un una piedra difusora de aire y ese resultado se vuelve a filtrar con un filtro de diesel para coche y el resultado ya puedes usarlo. Resumidamente. Hay un canal en español de un señor que tiene montado su chiringuito en el garaje y lo tiene muy profesional. Se llama Terrazocultor Jose Manuel, esta en TH-cam.
If you warm the oil in a pot to 54⁰ C and then mic it with the chemical and stirr it with an electric long arm wisk like the one the painters use...in less than 10 minutes it would split.
But ethanol or alcohol is probably not good for a diesel engine. professional manufacturers probably make sure that the final fuel does not contain alcohol? then they also have to think about things like cetane value. And the octane content of diesel is said to be around 40 somewhere
And here in Australia if the government gets knowledge of you making your own fuel, (by law) they can put their hand out for the excise/tax (about 40c) per litre.
Why?
Nazis
In the UK it's OK to make it for your own use I think but if you sell it then the authorities will want their cut - and fuel tax in the UK is high so it's not appreciably cheaper than Diesel.@@challacustica9049
That’s why you don’t tell anyone.
Given Diesel is 2US$/L where I’m from, that’s still a good deal
Some types of silicone is made for plastic and others for glass. Others works for everything.
Does regular diesel mix with vegetable oil? Can they be mixed in 50-50 proportions or do they not mix together?
I run on 100%unwashed BD since 1999. When I used to wash I had only troubles from corrosion.