I have done this, made several hundred liters of Bio some years ago. I was driving a Toyota Prado KZTE engine. Few Problems: 1. Not as easy as you might think to collect the oil. Fast food shops have agreements already OR staff take it. 2. That cleaning / post production process is VERY important - the diesel will look clear but still has soap dissolved in it. 3. Be prepared to get Diesel Filter Warning light come on when you run it pure. ( I had to change my diesel filter) BUT the car ran just fine on it: Mixed 50/50 AND once I ran a full tank just home made Bio. I stopped making because I could not get enough oil to make it worthwhile.
@@CatDaddyx2 bio diesel in small ( say 50 liter) quantities is very doable, fun, and a cheap way to run a small older diesel motor. IF you can get regular veg. Oil supply. ( For free)
When making fuel from vegetable oil you should wash the fuel after extracting the glycerin. If You use too much sodium hydroxide the final product can have some dissolved NaOH in the liquid making it slightly basic which can slowly damage fuel lines an the engine.
@@MrWeiserrr You literally 'wash' it in clean hot water. Then you wait for the oil/water to separate and then drain off the water. Finally you should dry the oil to remove any remaining moisture. You do that by adding calcium carbonate to the oil and leaving it a day or two.
@@brianmurphy8790 cheers !! I genuinely thought that as he didn’t elaborate on the word “wash” !🤯! why is this not wide spread knowledge, I’m gonna have to start doing this & stock pile it for when SHTF. Nice pic btw I guess you could say I’m from the house of Lancashire 😉
@@MrWeiserrr this stuff will last about ten years at room temp. so you may be better off storing the base components instead and making the fuel as needed after shtf.
You normally "wash" with water the oil after filtering to remove rests of soap. To avoid creating foam, you should nebulize water above the oil. Water is more dense so it will travel downwards and settle on the bottom, taking the soap with it. To remove the water you just need to have a valve on the bottom and empty the tank until there is no more water. You do this as many times until you get clear water on the bottom.
if you are going to make alot of biodiesel and have large waste oil supply i really recommend to get centrifuge filter to make the filtering way easier and better
Vaccum filters suck at processing in bulk. Centrifuge filters pull contaminants and water which iirc vaccum filters will not. No physical "filter" so no need to replace anything really. Hefty investment at $1500~ sure but that pays itself off in 5-6 tank fulls on my 50 gal truck. $300 to fill the tank, or a 1 time $1500 purchase to filter my own at $1 gallon or less? Sold.
Among the many other things I did with _Pisco sin Fronteras_ down in Pisco Peru, I ran the biodiesel rig for three months. I used 100% biodiesel in the volunteer truck which routinely pulled a heavy cement mixer, equipment and around twenty volunteers packed inside/outside. The centerpiece of our biodiesel rig was a converted hot water heater, the element inside provided the heat. External to this was a network of piping to move the product around and a number of valves to direct the flow. There was an inline filter and several large tanks for three rounds of filtering with bubbled air in each. Honestly, we just left the ethanol residue in the biodiesel which does no harm to the end product. As for the drained-off glycerin, this then was used to manufacture soap which we sold. We provided clean buckets to the local restaurants and once each week made a pickup of used cooking oil from them. I note that it doesn't get too cold down in Peru, to be honest. Be prepared to replace your car/truck's fuel filter once or twice after switching to biodiesel since the fuel is soapier (some glycerin) and will internally clean your engine as a result, the residue from your engine then potentially clogging that filter. I'll throw out there that this was an older-style diesel truck with glow plugs which I'd suggest would be optimal for this.
have you thought about using a dryer before putting this in your car? I have to say, you showed a much healthier respect for safety than many of the youtubers here, in North America!
This process is usable only for older diesel engines, not for newer common rail / PD engines. I had old car (VW Golf 1,9 SDI from 1997 year) and it runs about 100 000km on home made bio diesel (FAME = Fatty acid methyl ester)
well said new engines with catylytic converters and partical filters don't do well either , not the engine but all the sensors will go scatty and basically make your car unusable, if you have a tdi with a german fuel pump and viton seals youre golden, you'll use more fuel filters but it works ..Diesel engines were originally designed to run on this stuff no mention of heating either for some reason....
@@maximusboscus having tried to run newer vehicles on 100% biodiesel and seen what happens to for instance Lucas fuel pumps when in contact with biodiesel I can assure that there is nothing particularly wrong with the statement... All new diesel cars "should" be able to run with a small percentage of biodiesel because its already in the fuel but that doesnt mean they can run on it. In fact most new cars have so many sensors to reduce engine temperature and particulate filters that clog remove unburnt biofuels in stead of what theyre supposed to do that if you put even a meduim percentage of biofuel in a newer vehicle you will have an extremely expensive problem...fuel eating seals and fuel lines. pumps that clog up, filters that clog solid in the cold, exhaust gases that destroy the catalytic converter, and particulate filter. Manufacturers started out making cars that could run on biofuels and then redesigned them and gradually added peripherals that make it impossible for new engines to use even a half decent amount of biofuel.
Also you probably don't have the additives they use for Winterdiesel. And as you already stated: Without those the diesel gets too thick to properly flow when cold. Diesel gets pretty goey pretty fast. So in colder weather you might wanna use more Diesel from the gas station and less from you own production. Depending on how cold it gets where you live be careful about that.
You can have two tanks. One for diesel and one for bio diesel. You start the car with diesel and reroute the heat into the bio then switch to Bio diesel.
I used to run straight cooking oil in my mk3 transit, bought 1 trolley full at a time in tesco! It worked out great until the autumn set in and the oil got cold so the van was difficult to start. I got round that real easily by going on holiday and coming back when it got warm again.
@@mgrdigimarketing3035 really? So ive just stored them in my loft, right? And while we are examinating your profoundly stupid reply.... tell me what country dispenses cooking oil in pumps.
@@mgrdigimarketing3035the best way to recycle plastic containers from cooking oil (as well as almost all other plastics) is to heat them in an oxygen free environment and distill the resulting vapors.. which makes diesel.
@@Mark-kc2ke its about how complicated engine is or to be specific the fuel injection system. I used to run used cooking oil, used engine oil in my golf 3 1,9 diesel, it did not give two f*cks about anything in summer. When it got colder, needed to add diesel to cooking oil or heat the cooking oil up so it would go trough filter... If you are trying to use cooking oil with CR system you basically are asking for problems, cause that thing will not last long even if it survives first mins..
Hi there. The older generators can use the cooking oil just as it is. But there is a faster and easier way to make biodiesel for your car, heat up the oil and mix in a couple of packets of gelatin. It collects all the impurities. Then you can mix the biodiesel with 50% normal diesel.
@foty8679 fair point. However, there is a patent on the gelatin method. It's significantly cheaper. The gelatin removes all the glycerin as well. It's a British patent. Once the gelatin has settled out, you mix 10% paraffin, and you are good to go. Obviously, you can add more paraffin if you want or a little gas station diesel. It's just a significantly easier and cheaper way to make the biodiesel.
Alrighty, here are some tips from a chemist: First: safety. Sodium hydroxide in solid form isn't that bad, solutions are what is highly corrosive. (aka it was much more dangerous once you dissolved it. This is because as a solution it has much more surface area to react as it diffuses into your skin.) Although dust can be dangerous, since sodium hydroxide is hygroscopic, it will just stick and not really become airbourne. The way you handled the solution was kinda reckless. You could've easily spilled it on your exposed arms or even face (as you were holding it above your head) and that would've been pretty bad. Wear a lab coat, they are pretty cheap. Methanol is highly toxic, so bubbling it with air not only wastes some of it as it evaporates faster and thus reduces yield, but also isn't healthy, especially long term (also try to limit the amount of exposure of it to air in general. E.g. just the erlenmeyer flask just chilling there as you prepare everything else. just cover it with a watchglass or something. This also reduces the risk of anything else getting/falling in there) In the end you could see that it is still cloudy. This indicates that there are still particles in there (likely suspended soap & glycerine, which are bad for engines. Maybe even excess sodium hydroxide if too much was used.) So a post-processing step is necessary. Since all dissolve in water, you can use hot water. After that, just discard that watery layer and dry your bio diesel over some dessicant, like calcium chloride, silicon dioxide, etc.
as long as tthe car starts it doesnt matter if it coagulets when cold because when the car runs most of the fuel that goes towards the injectors go back to the fuel tank on the return lines, (dont know their name exactly) and the diesel returning to the fueltank is warmed by the engine which is the same reason it is not good to un an engine with the fuel light on because it tends to get too hot and it wont lubricate the fuel pump (especially the high presure one) and thus leading to premature wearing of it...
We in Brazil use vegetable oil which can be those that are discarded from restaurants, or new soybean oil we mix it with diesel directly and it works very well, however this mixture is almost entirely used by farmers in their agricultural machines and in transport trucks. It helps the environment and reduces fuel costs.
putting oil into diesel does the opposite of saving the environment, it only saves money, you oil produces a lot more smoke and toxic fumes than regular fuel, but hey as long as you save a buck right?
@@keller_ just clarification Used cooking oil is recycled, as it can contaminate water. It is mostly used to extract glycerin and biodiesel. We don't have places to incinerate it as most os our electricity is hydropower based (70%). So we started to recicle it. Brazilian diesel is 10% plant based, part of the oil used is cooking oil processed to just extract the "biodiesel". All major truck and car brands are in Brazil and they pass in he Euro 7 emissions, using this mixture. If is is not clean enough to you, there is one more component, being plant based it will be reabsorbed after burn in the new crop being extremely eco friendly. In the same way we use ethanol to move our cars. We don't have just carnival and poverty, Brazil is more eco friendly than he entire Eurozone. Big problem is the deforestation.
from a veteran cook to you, warm up the oil first and it will flow quicker. Merely filling up you sink with hot water and placing the bottles in will help. however, if this is a serious hobby you could probably get an old discarded deepfryer and warm it up on ultra low, 250 degrees farenheight.
In Sweden, the maximum limit for Bio Diesel at most petrol stations is 7%. it is seen that many car manufacturers specify it as a maximum limit in their diesel engines, but the petrol companies also insert HVO in the diesel. Then someone in the USA said that biodiesel is not so good for the particle filter and of course also the diesel filter. There can also be problems with algae in the tank
You missed one important step is to remove water content in used vegetable oil by distilling it before using Sodium hydroxide and methanol and filtering it in final product and also important to adapt your car for the use of new fuel .
Just a tip: compressed air is usually pretty dry, which will pull the methanol out of solution (methanol is even more volatile than ethanol). You should really mix it mechanically
Just wondering.... Do you know what the 'Pour/Gel/Cloud point of your Bio Diesel is? I have heard that it can vary on your source of the oil, then slightly on the process..... My cloud point seems to be close to 20 degrees Fahrenheit... and in my process... I (water) wash my Bio diesel, and then, I filter the oil after washing.... to make sure that I remove any thing left from the process
I think it is easier to build a preheater into your diesel, and it is probably way easier to run an electric car directly from your solar array. Nice work showing the whole process of refining Biodiesel, I love that stuff!
This is why i love the old VW and mercedes diesels. Just filter the oil properly, put it straight in with a third normaly diesel and its runs perfectly AND you neighbourhood smells like fries.
great video Rulof. really like your style. titration at the beginning will improve the quality of the chemical conversion and washing at the end will clean-up the fuel ready for use
Means I can use it without adding some biodiesel from other gasoline station if im living in South east asia where the lowest temperature is at night around 20 degrees right?
I think this can also work well with ethanol. It's also cheaper because you can obtain high concentrations by pouring salt in vodka and the ethanol rises to the top of the solution. Obviously, the salt will need to be distilled out if used in an engine because it's corrosive but it's easier and faster to distill a solid from a liquid than a liquid from another liquid
Well as far as I know Ethanol is 1) a lot cheaper than diesel so it's still probably more profitable to make diesel than to make Ethanol and 2) most engines can't run on Ethanol.
@@teasippingguy9316 you'll be running the engine on biodiesel tho not ethanol and if it's cheaper it will just make your biodiesel cheaper. Not sure what the purpose of your comment is tbh
@@hantrio4327 But a lot of the methanol is obtained from natural gas so environmentally speaking it's still a fossil fuel source of carbon. Ethanol obtained by fermentation comes from carbon that was already in the atmosphere before so you won't be adding new carbon in.
If you don't want to use any harsh chemicals it is technically possible to distill used veggie oil and get the glycerin out but it's much more expensive
@@95rav Actually methanol is probably worse than NaOH. Their flame is almost transparent, is volatile so you may accidentally breath it. And in contact with eyes their vapours can cause severe damage. I was kinda surprised how he reacted to NaOH ( as I expected) but he didn't say anything about methanol.
This doesnt have to take so long if you heat the oil from the start. That will also take care of the impurities in the oil so you dont need a sieve for that. Your caustic and methanol ratios is also wrong,too little. This will cause your biodiesel to set in very cold conditions.
Just Put the Salat oil in the Tank of an old Diesel Car. It will Work. But Not in a Common rail. It will Break your high pressure Pump. I did it with my old 190 D Mercedes more than 20 Years ago. It worked fine. At this time Diesel price has been raised. Salat oil from Supermarket was much cheaper. There we're also seperaten Tanks available which fitted into the spare tire Container in the Back. Start and Finish with normal Diesel with a switch. But after that they raised the price for Salat oil, those Bastards. The Car ran good. I built an extra heating Tube into the Diesel circle to keep it better flowing in Wintertime. But a 50:50 Mix with Diesel was Always better. I Loved the smell of a Grill Party, everytime I have got out of the Car. The examination of exaust Gases was allways better Then with normal Diesel.
If you are running your vehicle on engine oil, cooking oil , biodiesel I have found it to be better to mix 70% oil (whatever kind) and 30% petroleum, with this mix I have even been able to start my vehicle in -5. unfiltered engine oil straight out of an engine ( the engine has oil filter) idles nice nice to less smoke after sitting for a while Older Diesel cars will run on almost anything flammable as long as you can get it started. Quick tip if you ever get stuck and you have spray deodorant on you, spray that straight in the air in take well turning the car over, it will most likely start even in the coldest of temps
Its best to pour all the oil into a large vessel and and wait for the sediment to settle to the bottom. Then open a tap, fitted a couple of cm from the bottom, to drain off the clean oil.
The best option i saw on cleaning the cooking oil without using sodium hydroxide was to use gelatine mixed in water shake the oil up it up and leave it overnite it it separates the muck in the oil probably can reuse it again if you wanted to the gelatine tunrs into a hard gel so you just tip out the clean oil so its a simple process that way you could clean the whole 20 litres or two batchs of 10 ltrs at the same time and its ready to use the next day so much easier
You could probably mount a beer keg to a high speed drill press and let it turn at a few thousand RPM under pressure or vacuum for half a day or so to seperate out the fine solids and sediments from the oil to clean it up a little.
Can I use Ethanol instead of water and as I see you can wash the soap out with water so is it okay to already use a 70% Ethanol 30% water mix from the beginning?
you can use ethanol but you´d have to have 100% ethanol which you can get by putting dry calcium chloride or epsom salt into 96% everclear, then react it with sodium hydroxide. being that ethanol is one carbon chain longer it will make the biodiesel a bit more viscous, so it would be better to make a 60:40 mix 40 being biodiesel. the more water you have in the reaction the more soap you´ll get which lowers yield and takes a bit more effort to take out, which should be done anyway, by spraying water into the biodiesel and then let it separate and either decant it or use a pipette to suck it up, afterwards you have to dry the biodiesel with dry calcium chloride. you can get by putting the salts into an oven and bake for some time, after that crush it to a powder and store it airtight with no humidity or use right away
Sodium hydroxide is really not as dangerous as you think. Its reaction with the water in your methanol can be made much worse by the flask you used if boiling occurred. Your choice of container actually made it more dangerous than it otherwise would have been. The most dangerous part of handling it is when it is in a concentrated solution, and when that solution is hot.
Since the process takes a bit of time, I think you can decrease the amount of homemade in the car to protect it, like 20L from the g station and 5L homemade.
You can, but in warm climates or during summer time. In winter you won't be able to power anything without adding heaters to the fuel tank and / or adding additives to the fuel
It is water soluble. If you (water) wash the end product few times prior to use in an engine, you get rid of that and the remaining soap as well. Additional step of the process is using the desiccant after washing and filtering it out after it clears the water away.
In an emergency situation I once used 20 litres of vegetable oil straight from the shop in my 2010 Toyota and it ran perfectly fine. Got me home ok and I wasn’t stranded in the middle of nowhere. Since then I’ve owned diesel cars for their high tolerance of using cooking oil as fuel. 😅
You can literally pour cooking oil into a diesel car right of the shelf. Or clean it before using used cooking oil. Either way we use way less cooking oil than diesel and diesel in general is a huge polluter.
Sodium hydroxides not that dangerous, glasses are appropriate but the respirator is kinda overkill particularly for the hydroxide, I’d be more worried about the 2 liters of methanol.
How much percent is the metil-acohol(metanol)? How much for one liter diesel oil? For 1l waste oil (ca 850g) 0,2l metil-alcohol(170g), and 2,125g NaOH. Is it correct?
A little detail I don't get regarding the ratio of the chemicals. You write 20% Methanol, but you added 2L Methanol to 20L of Oil. Wouldn't that be 10% if anything?
I dont know how it was in other countries but we in Germany had in the 90s and early 2000s tractors and agricultural machines and even passenger cars that were specifically built to burn plant oil directly to power their diesel engines until it was prohibited to build these and as far as i know even to burn plant oil. Some say that farms smelled like someone made tons of french fries there.
I have done this, made several hundred liters of Bio some years ago. I was driving a Toyota Prado KZTE engine. Few Problems:
1. Not as easy as you might think to collect the oil. Fast food shops have agreements already OR staff take it.
2. That cleaning / post production process is VERY important - the diesel will look clear but still has soap dissolved in it.
3. Be prepared to get Diesel Filter Warning light come on when you run it pure. ( I had to change my diesel filter) BUT the car ran just fine on it: Mixed 50/50 AND once I ran a full tank just home made Bio.
I stopped making because I could not get enough oil to make it worthwhile.
I agree- I run pure veggie oil in my car and even though its rewading its not easy, and the hardest part is getting hold of enough waste oil!
My dad owns a restaurant. I really need to take advantage of that it sounds like
@@CatDaddyx2 bio diesel in small ( say 50 liter) quantities is very doable, fun, and a cheap way to run a small older diesel motor. IF you can get regular veg. Oil supply. ( For free)
@@cameronmurie I got an old diesel kholer generator that I wouldn’t mind running on it
Can I use baking soda, Sodium Hydrocarbonate (Na2CO3) instead of sodium hydroxide (NAOH)?
When making fuel from vegetable oil you should wash the fuel after extracting the glycerin. If You use too much sodium hydroxide the final product can have some dissolved NaOH in the liquid making it slightly basic which can slowly damage fuel lines an the engine.
How do you “wash” the fuel ?
I was gonna say just that.
He never washed it!
@@MrWeiserrr
You literally 'wash' it in clean hot water.
Then you wait for the oil/water to separate and then drain off the water.
Finally you should dry the oil to remove any remaining moisture. You do that by adding calcium carbonate to the oil and leaving it a day or two.
@@brianmurphy8790 cheers !!
I genuinely thought that as he didn’t elaborate on the word “wash”
!🤯!
why is this not wide spread knowledge, I’m gonna have to start doing this & stock pile it for when SHTF.
Nice pic btw I guess you could say I’m from the house of Lancashire 😉
@@MrWeiserrr this stuff will last about ten years at room temp. so you may be better off storing the base components instead and making the fuel as needed after shtf.
You normally "wash" with water the oil after filtering to remove rests of soap. To avoid creating foam, you should nebulize water above the oil. Water is more dense so it will travel downwards and settle on the bottom, taking the soap with it. To remove the water you just need to have a valve on the bottom and empty the tank until there is no more water.
You do this as many times until you get clear water on the bottom.
Have you ever tried removing the soap with "water washing"?
if you are going to make alot of biodiesel and have large waste oil supply i really recommend to get centrifuge filter to make the filtering way easier and better
I think a vaccum filter is better(cheaper, Easy to find)
Vaccum filters suck at processing in bulk. Centrifuge filters pull contaminants and water which iirc vaccum filters will not. No physical "filter" so no need to replace anything really.
Hefty investment at $1500~ sure but that pays itself off in 5-6 tank fulls on my 50 gal truck. $300 to fill the tank, or a 1 time $1500 purchase to filter my own at $1 gallon or less? Sold.
Among the many other things I did with _Pisco sin Fronteras_ down in Pisco Peru, I ran the biodiesel rig for three months. I used 100% biodiesel in the volunteer truck which routinely pulled a heavy cement mixer, equipment and around twenty volunteers packed inside/outside. The centerpiece of our biodiesel rig was a converted hot water heater, the element inside provided the heat. External to this was a network of piping to move the product around and a number of valves to direct the flow. There was an inline filter and several large tanks for three rounds of filtering with bubbled air in each. Honestly, we just left the ethanol residue in the biodiesel which does no harm to the end product. As for the drained-off glycerin, this then was used to manufacture soap which we sold. We provided clean buckets to the local restaurants and once each week made a pickup of used cooking oil from them. I note that it doesn't get too cold down in Peru, to be honest. Be prepared to replace your car/truck's fuel filter once or twice after switching to biodiesel since the fuel is soapier (some glycerin) and will internally clean your engine as a result, the residue from your engine then potentially clogging that filter. I'll throw out there that this was an older-style diesel truck with glow plugs which I'd suggest would be optimal for this.
Long process but useful after WW3
Were do you get the Oil and Engine from? Oil is not easy to produce. Woodgas would be easier.
@@infestus5657 stale gas from cars. Motor oil. Cooking oil. Anything oil. All of it can be turned into biodiesel.
hope ww3 doesnt happen ....
Oh yes, because after ww3 you’ll still need to drive.
After WW3 you'd be better off with batteries and wind/solar
have you thought about using a dryer before putting this in your car? I have to say, you showed a much healthier respect for safety than many of the youtubers here, in North America!
This process is usable only for older diesel engines, not for newer common rail / PD engines. I had old car (VW Golf 1,9 SDI from 1997 year) and it runs about 100 000km on home made bio diesel (FAME = Fatty acid methyl ester)
well said new engines with catylytic converters and partical filters don't do well either , not the engine but all the sensors will go scatty and basically make your car unusable, if you have a tdi with a german fuel pump and viton seals youre golden, you'll use more fuel filters but it works ..Diesel engines were originally designed to run on this stuff
no mention of heating either for some reason....
I have the same VW but 2003
This is actually wrong. Biodiesel eats away the rubber seals on old cars because they are not prepared for it. New cars are actually prepared for it.
@@maximusboscus having tried to run newer vehicles on 100% biodiesel and seen what happens to for instance Lucas fuel pumps when in contact with biodiesel I can assure that there is nothing particularly wrong with the statement...
All new diesel cars "should" be able to run with a small percentage of biodiesel because its already in the fuel but that doesnt mean they can run on it. In fact most new cars have so many sensors to reduce engine temperature and particulate filters that clog remove unburnt biofuels in stead of what theyre supposed to do that if you put even a meduim percentage of biofuel in a newer vehicle you will have an extremely expensive problem...fuel eating seals and fuel lines. pumps that clog up, filters that clog solid in the cold, exhaust gases that destroy the catalytic converter, and particulate filter.
Manufacturers started out making cars that could run on biofuels and then redesigned them and gradually added peripherals that make it impossible for new engines to use even a half decent amount of biofuel.
I did basically the same process for my 2003 1.9 pd in my passat. OM642 CR diesel and my V10 tdi all for many thousands of miles
I’m kind of a casual prepper, so I love watching videos like this.
I don’t think making diesel is casual prepping hahah
Also you probably don't have the additives they use for Winterdiesel. And as you already stated: Without those the diesel gets too thick to properly flow when cold. Diesel gets pretty goey pretty fast. So in colder weather you might wanna use more Diesel from the gas station and less from you own production. Depending on how cold it gets where you live be careful about that.
Adding 1/10 of kerosene to the mix will probably help.
@@maxa.629kerosene is lighter than diesel and in uk it’s used as heating fuel
do it like the old timers and put a bit of gasoline in it
You can have two tanks. One for diesel and one for bio diesel. You start the car with diesel and reroute the heat into the bio then switch to Bio diesel.
Just add kerosene and methanol, it's not rocket science.
I used to run straight cooking oil in my mk3 transit, bought 1 trolley full at a time in tesco! It worked out great until the autumn set in and the oil got cold so the van was difficult to start.
I got round that real easily by going on holiday and coming back when it got warm again.
So rather than pumping it you bought your fuel in plastic containers which your country probably doesn't recycle 😂 nice work
@@mgrdigimarketing3035 really? So ive just stored them in my loft, right? And while we are examinating your profoundly stupid reply.... tell me what country dispenses cooking oil in pumps.
@@mgrdigimarketing3035the best way to recycle plastic containers from cooking oil (as well as almost all other plastics) is to heat them in an oxygen free environment and distill the resulting vapors.. which makes diesel.
@@sasssquatch1467which now is sold in some countries under the Name r99 or hvo 100 !
This is really interesting. All other sources made it sound incredibly complicated.
Yeah water and corn starch
maybe it should be complicated if you don't want your car's engine to fall apart?
@@Mark-kc2ke its about how complicated engine is or to be specific the fuel injection system. I used to run used cooking oil, used engine oil in my golf 3 1,9 diesel, it did not give two f*cks about anything in summer. When it got colder, needed to add diesel to cooking oil or heat the cooking oil up so it would go trough filter... If you are trying to use cooking oil with CR system you basically are asking for problems, cause that thing will not last long even if it survives first mins..
Hi there. The older generators can use the cooking oil just as it is. But there is a faster and easier way to make biodiesel for your car, heat up the oil and mix in a couple of packets of gelatin. It collects all the impurities. Then you can mix the biodiesel with 50% normal diesel.
They will gunk up though, so its always better to put in the effort.
@foty8679 fair point. However, there is a patent on the gelatin method. It's significantly cheaper. The gelatin removes all the glycerin as well. It's a British patent. Once the gelatin has settled out, you mix 10% paraffin, and you are good to go. Obviously, you can add more paraffin if you want or a little gas station diesel. It's just a significantly easier and cheaper way to make the biodiesel.
@tranquility382
Did you trying such method, to get biodiesel?
Alrighty, here are some tips from a chemist:
First: safety.
Sodium hydroxide in solid form isn't that bad, solutions are what is highly corrosive. (aka it was much more dangerous once you dissolved it. This is because as a solution it has much more surface area to react as it diffuses into your skin.) Although dust can be dangerous, since sodium hydroxide is hygroscopic, it will just stick and not really become airbourne.
The way you handled the solution was kinda reckless. You could've easily spilled it on your exposed arms or even face (as you were holding it above your head) and that would've been pretty bad. Wear a lab coat, they are pretty cheap.
Methanol is highly toxic, so bubbling it with air not only wastes some of it as it evaporates faster and thus reduces yield, but also isn't healthy, especially long term (also try to limit the amount of exposure of it to air in general. E.g. just the erlenmeyer flask just chilling there as you prepare everything else. just cover it with a watchglass or something. This also reduces the risk of anything else getting/falling in there)
In the end you could see that it is still cloudy. This indicates that there are still particles in there (likely suspended soap & glycerine, which are bad for engines. Maybe even excess sodium hydroxide if too much was used.) So a post-processing step is necessary. Since all dissolve in water, you can use hot water. After that, just discard that watery layer and dry your bio diesel over some dessicant, like calcium chloride, silicon dioxide, etc.
Mi fa un gran piacere vedere che stai espandendo la community al resto del mondo. Keep it up bro!
as long as tthe car starts it doesnt matter if it coagulets when cold because when the car runs most of the fuel that goes towards the injectors go back to the fuel tank on the return lines, (dont know their name exactly) and the diesel returning to the fueltank is warmed by the engine which is the same reason it is not good to un an engine with the fuel light on because it tends to get too hot and it wont lubricate the fuel pump (especially the high presure one) and thus leading to premature wearing of it...
We in Brazil use vegetable oil which can be those that are discarded from restaurants, or new soybean oil we mix it with diesel directly and it works very well, however this mixture is almost entirely used by farmers in their agricultural machines and in transport trucks. It helps the environment and reduces fuel costs.
putting oil into diesel does the opposite of saving the environment, it only saves money, you oil produces a lot more smoke and toxic fumes than regular fuel, but hey as long as you save a buck right?
only in your head that pollutes more@@keller_
@@keller_shut up cuck.
@@keller_ just clarification
Used cooking oil is recycled, as it can contaminate water. It is mostly used to extract glycerin and biodiesel.
We don't have places to incinerate it as most os our electricity is hydropower based (70%). So we started to recicle it.
Brazilian diesel is 10% plant based, part of the oil used is cooking oil processed to just extract the "biodiesel".
All major truck and car brands are in Brazil and they pass in he Euro 7 emissions, using this mixture.
If is is not clean enough to you, there is one more component, being plant based it will be reabsorbed after burn in the new crop being extremely eco friendly. In the same way we use ethanol to move our cars.
We don't have just carnival and poverty, Brazil is more eco friendly than he entire Eurozone. Big problem is the deforestation.
You are way underrated sir! Shame on the people who watch all your videos but subscribe. Keep it up brother! 👍🏼
from a veteran cook to you, warm up the oil first and it will flow quicker. Merely filling up you sink with hot water and placing the bottles in will help. however, if this is a serious hobby you could probably get an old discarded deepfryer and warm it up on ultra low, 250 degrees farenheight.
In Sweden, the maximum limit for Bio Diesel at most petrol stations is 7%. it is seen that many car manufacturers specify it as a maximum limit in their diesel engines, but the petrol companies also insert HVO in the diesel. Then someone in the USA said that biodiesel is not so good for the particle filter and of course also the diesel filter. There can also be problems with algae in the tank
You missed one important step is to remove water content in used vegetable oil by distilling it before using Sodium hydroxide and methanol and filtering it in final product and also important to adapt your car for the use of new fuel .
underrated channel, wonderful production value
سأستعمل هذا الوقود في التدفئه
شكرا لكم معلومات قيّمه 🇸🇾♥️
وانا معك كمان 😂😂
حبايب البي form Yemen ههه
Just a tip: compressed air is usually pretty dry, which will pull the methanol out of solution (methanol is even more volatile than ethanol). You should really mix it mechanically
Good use of the safety squint when using the grinder there!
Just wondering.... Do you know what the 'Pour/Gel/Cloud point of your Bio Diesel is? I have heard that it can vary on your source of the oil, then slightly on the process..... My cloud point seems to be close to 20 degrees Fahrenheit... and in my process... I (water) wash my Bio diesel, and then, I filter the oil after washing.... to make sure that I remove any thing left from the process
Look like you know your stuff.. Any online forum or resources you would recommend to learn more about this?
I would highly recommend running it through a filter and fuel/water separater before putting in your vehicle
I think it is easier to build a preheater into your diesel, and it is probably way easier to run an electric car directly from your solar array.
Nice work showing the whole process of refining Biodiesel, I love that stuff!
This is why i love the old VW and mercedes diesels. Just filter the oil properly, put it straight in with a third normaly diesel and its runs perfectly AND you neighbourhood smells like fries.
great video Rulof. really like your style.
titration at the beginning will improve the quality of the chemical conversion and washing at the end will clean-up the fuel ready for use
Means I can use it without adding some biodiesel from other gasoline station if im living in South east asia where the lowest temperature is at night around 20 degrees right?
I wonder what your neighbours thought when they saw you with all this in your garage 😂
Meth lab😉🤣
You can add a little bit of terpentine to the final mixture as it will greatly improve the viscosity of the biodiesel
I think this can also work well with ethanol. It's also cheaper because you can obtain high concentrations by pouring salt in vodka and the ethanol rises to the top of the solution. Obviously, the salt will need to be distilled out if used in an engine because it's corrosive but it's easier and faster to distill a solid from a liquid than a liquid from another liquid
Well as far as I know Ethanol is 1) a lot cheaper than diesel so it's still probably more profitable to make diesel than to make Ethanol and 2) most engines can't run on Ethanol.
@@teasippingguy9316 you'll be running the engine on biodiesel tho not ethanol and if it's cheaper it will just make your biodiesel cheaper. Not sure what the purpose of your comment is tbh
@@atrumluminarium nvm I thought you wanted to extract Ethanol and use that as fuel
@@atrumluminarium But methanol is way cheaper than ethanol especially if not denatured
@@hantrio4327 But a lot of the methanol is obtained from natural gas so environmentally speaking it's still a fossil fuel source of carbon. Ethanol obtained by fermentation comes from carbon that was already in the atmosphere before so you won't be adding new carbon in.
If you don't want to use any harsh chemicals it is technically possible to distill used veggie oil and get the glycerin out but it's much more expensive
BS.
And hydroxide isn't as dangerous as he makes it out to be: it is common drain cleaner. Use the same precautions.
@@95rav Actually methanol is probably worse than NaOH. Their flame is almost transparent, is volatile so you may accidentally breath it. And in contact with eyes their vapours can cause severe damage. I was kinda surprised how he reacted to NaOH ( as I expected) but he didn't say anything about methanol.
@@95ravYea just let a droplet of drain cleaner in your eye you'll see if it's not dangerous
@@Toukout44 I didn't say t wasn't dangerous, fuckwit.
This doesnt have to take so long if you heat the oil from the start. That will also take care of the impurities in the oil so you dont need a sieve for that. Your caustic and methanol ratios is also wrong,too little. This will cause your biodiesel to set in very cold conditions.
Do not use it in a newer common rail diesel but for older pump types it works well.
Io uso olio di semi vari su una Fiesta TDCi da anni e nessun problema
WIth the cost of the extra chemicals needed is it still worthwhile? Where I am it seems that there is no savings.
For quicker filtering, get a external oil filter housing and pump the oil through a micron filter. We used to do that with waste oil furnaces.
اعلم اني دخيل . بس هل زيت زيتون يمكن انتاج بيو ديزل
You could literally make a sign " dump your waste oil here" and you get diesel for life
Just Put the Salat oil in the Tank of an old Diesel Car. It will Work. But Not in a Common rail. It will Break your high pressure Pump. I did it with my old 190 D Mercedes more than 20 Years ago. It worked fine. At this time Diesel price has been raised. Salat oil from Supermarket was much cheaper. There we're also seperaten Tanks available which fitted into the spare tire Container in the Back. Start and Finish with normal Diesel with a switch. But after that they raised the price for Salat oil, those Bastards. The Car ran good. I built an extra heating Tube into the Diesel circle to keep it better flowing in Wintertime. But a 50:50 Mix with Diesel was Always better. I Loved the smell of a Grill Party, everytime I have got out of the Car. The examination of exaust Gases was allways better Then with normal Diesel.
Gut gemacht !
If you are running your vehicle on engine oil, cooking oil , biodiesel I have found it to be better to mix 70% oil (whatever kind) and 30% petroleum, with this mix I have even been able to start my vehicle in -5. unfiltered engine oil straight out of an engine ( the engine has oil filter) idles nice nice to less smoke after sitting for a while
Older Diesel cars will run on almost anything flammable as long as you can get it started. Quick tip if you ever get stuck and you have spray deodorant on you, spray that straight in the air in take well turning the car over, it will most likely start even in the coldest of temps
is it as such easy to synthesize bio diesel ! ! 1 question only , is it possible from ethanol in place of methanol ? thank you so much !
You can change the methanol for ethanol(is actually more safe to use ethanol)
How much energy used to create oil
Its best to pour all the oil into a large vessel and and wait for the sediment to settle to the bottom. Then open a tap, fitted a couple of cm from the bottom, to drain off the clean oil.
0:33 it's glowing you could wind a coil or use water boiler around i would say 159L could be easily use here
In Serbia, but golf mj2, put unfiltered oil with an disel 1:1, and wholaaaa you have bio disel, trust me it works :).
The best option i saw on cleaning the cooking oil without using sodium hydroxide was to use gelatine mixed in water shake the oil up it up and leave it overnite it it separates the muck in the oil probably can reuse it again if you wanted to the gelatine tunrs into a hard gel so you just tip out the clean oil so its a simple process that way you could clean the whole 20 litres or two batchs of 10 ltrs at the same time and its ready to use the next day so much easier
How much salt and water is in there? Doesn't diesel need adaptive for the high pressure injection pumps?
You could probably mount a beer keg to a high speed drill press and let it turn at a few thousand RPM under pressure or vacuum for half a day or so to seperate out the fine solids and sediments from the oil to clean it up a little.
Can I use Ethanol instead of water and as I see you can wash the soap out with water so is it okay to already use a 70% Ethanol 30% water mix from the beginning?
you can use ethanol but you´d have to have 100% ethanol which you can get by putting dry calcium chloride or epsom salt into 96% everclear, then react it with sodium hydroxide. being that ethanol is one carbon chain longer it will make the biodiesel a bit more viscous, so it would be better to make a 60:40 mix 40 being biodiesel.
the more water you have in the reaction the more soap you´ll get which lowers yield and takes a bit more effort to take out, which should be done anyway, by spraying water into the biodiesel and then let it separate and either decant it or use a pipette to suck it up, afterwards you have to dry the biodiesel with dry calcium chloride. you can get by putting the salts into an oven and bake for some time, after that crush it to a powder and store it airtight with no humidity or use right away
Can you extract the glycerin with... say, baking soda, or another base that is more “engine friendly” from the start?
Seems ideal for oil lamps and heaters.
Yeah it’s pretty good to hear a house
@@jennyhammack5614 The question is: Does your house have anything interesting to tell you?
Sodium hydroxide is really not as dangerous as you think. Its reaction with the water in your methanol can be made much worse by the flask you used if boiling occurred. Your choice of container actually made it more dangerous than it otherwise would have been.
The most dangerous part of handling it is when it is in a concentrated solution, and when that solution is hot.
I run a Vw T4 2.5 tdi on 100% oil no matter whether engine- or vegetable oil I just used coffee filters and it runs perfect in summer.
What about winter time?
🤣🤣
Un itaiano che compare nel mio feed "strictly no italians"
Fantastico! Continua cosi, spero che spacchi internazionalmente. Te lo meriti
Since the process takes a bit of time, I think you can decrease the amount of homemade in the car to protect it, like 20L from the g station and 5L homemade.
At 3:30 you write 0.25% of NaOH
20% CH3OH but you have 2 liters of methanol alcohol, 20% of 20 liters equal 4 liters.
I used biodiesel in a mk1 Berlingo for a few years, the engine always sounded better when running on it.
My friends VW T4 bus does not like diesel mixed with biodiesel.
Wow this is one of the few intros that's worth to not skip
Can I use ethanol instead of methanol?
is this cheaper or more expensive than regular diesel from the fuel station?
is this kind of fuel is good for common rail or newer engines?
You can, but in warm climates or during summer time.
In winter you won't be able to power anything without adding heaters to the fuel tank and / or adding additives to the fuel
Does regular diesel mix with vegetable oil? Can they be mixed in 50-50 proportions or do they not mix together?
the result is 15 liter of biodiesel. how much oil did he use ? what is the ratio?
Can i Mix different vegetable oils or should i just use 1 type ?
isnt the end relt still dangerous because of the sodium hydroxide ?
It is water soluble. If you (water) wash the end product few times prior to use in an engine, you get rid of that and the remaining soap as well. Additional step of the process is using the desiccant after washing and filtering it out after it clears the water away.
recomend getting safety glasses rated for liquids. You're using particle protection only.
if you got a cummins just put the oil straight in in with a bit of regular diesel roughly 80/20 mix and it should cherp it down np
for mixing instead of air you can use computer fan with one broken blade and attach it to vibrate outside the container...
0:41 where did u buy that bubbling speciment jar
can I use denatured alcohol instead?
In an emergency situation I once used 20 litres of vegetable oil straight from the shop in my 2010 Toyota and it ran perfectly fine. Got me home ok and I wasn’t stranded in the middle of nowhere. Since then I’ve owned diesel cars for their high tolerance of using cooking oil as fuel. 😅
The 0.25% NaOH is by weight or by volume?
Can you make fuel from birch oil?
so the ratio for each 1 liter Used cooking Oil, you get 1 Liter Biodiesel?
Would a it be too much to use a lab homogenizer?
You can literally pour cooking oil into a diesel car right of the shelf. Or clean it before using used cooking oil. Either way we use way less cooking oil than diesel and diesel in general is a huge polluter.
Nice. Do you frequently change the fuel filter of your fiat?
How much did it cost and do you think it would save you money in the long run???
are the proportions in grams or moles?
Used on my benzin car and it worked very well
Put oil in big container. Warm oil to 40° C and let all particles settle. Turn off heat allow oil to congeal into solid mass. Scoop out particles
Sodium hydroxides not that dangerous, glasses are appropriate but the respirator is kinda overkill particularly for the hydroxide, I’d be more worried about the 2 liters of methanol.
How much percent is the metil-acohol(metanol)? How much for one liter diesel oil? For 1l waste oil (ca 850g) 0,2l metil-alcohol(170g), and 2,125g NaOH. Is it correct?
Is there a way to make this stuff without the chemical that 1 drop can blind you? Maybe with more industrial filters?
NaOH is not that dangerous, he's being a little euro wuss
You can use matala filter in 5 gallon bucket and filter a lot quicker.
Hey, If i am Right, I can also use ethanol beside methanol right??? Can u please reply as fast as you can??
Ok kinda later but you can and i personally recomend, considering that the ethanol offeres less risk a than methanol
So can use a fish tank air pump
2 litre methanol on 20litre oil is 10%, not 20%. Which is correct value?
Does the fiat 500 run on biodiesel ? How abot the dpf ?
Do thake also coffe filter for the first filtering
Is it worth the time an material put in to get 30L out 🤔
A little detail I don't get regarding the ratio of the chemicals. You write 20% Methanol, but you added 2L Methanol to 20L of Oil. Wouldn't that be 10% if anything?
Are they safe for let's say a Diesel Power Generator ?
Its possible make biodiesel with ethanol?
I dont know how it was in other countries but we in Germany had in the 90s and early 2000s tractors and agricultural machines and even passenger cars that were specifically built to burn plant oil directly to power their diesel engines until it was prohibited to build these and as far as i know even to burn plant oil. Some say that farms smelled like someone made tons of french fries there.