That looks like a"'Robbins & Myers" motor. Please restore the data plate also. Tips can be found here www.afcaforum.com/view_topic.php?id=22626&forum_id=1&highlight=restoring+id+tags
Nice restoration. But,,, couple items for next time. One, always use a grommet when a wire passed through a metal hole. The starter capacitor wires are in danger of shorting from rubbing on the motor housing due to vibration over time.. Second, the armature end play is excessive, on older motors like this it was usually set by shims on the end of the armature shaft. Notice how the armature moves in and out when you power it up and down. Third, I have to agree re the shrink tube or kapton tape, even 3M 88 gets soft if heated to temps a motor can easily reach. I don't know why, but there's something appealing about the sound of an old electric motor, especially the big ones. Must be something about the type of metal used in the armature and windings that make them sound a bit different the modern motors.
Friendly advice for the future electric restorations: -In motors do not use duct tape. Shrink tube instead. -Use high temperature tolerant wires if you are soldering (look at the shrinking of the plastic while soldering) -Always use isolation transformer when you power up such old equipment. The lacquer on the magnet wire tend to weaken and cause a leakage to the body of the motor. This may lead to electric shock.
Answer to some of the questions raised. The motor is a single phase capacitor start. The internal centrifugal switch opens the start windings when it is up to speed, the capacitor gives a phase shift. If the switch doesn't operate as soon as the motor is up to speed the start windings can burn out. It should only takes 2 or 3 seconds if it hangs on I would put a new switch in, I expect they are still available. Check it under load when the compressor is back together. A 1/2 hp would be 375W current will depend on the voltage if its 220V W=IV I=375/220 = 1.7A (approx.) The bearings will be plain usually bronze with grooves for the oil to lubricate. The wick needs to have oil added periodically depending how often its run. I was surprised when you washed the Stator windings (coils). How did you dry them? When I worked in a repair shop we would dry them in a big oven for 2 - 3 hours then megger test for good resistance to earth, 2Mohm or above, before re varnish was applied. IMPORTANT make sure to restore the earth wire as if you get a fault your whole compressor could become live with dire consequences. The shrink tube already mentioned. If this is you first attempt at refurbishing a motor you have done a reasonable job. Back in the day I must have repaired 100's of these never kept count. I used to do re winds mainly.
Great information. I appreciate your commenting. I'm no expert obviously but I am having fun doing this. You've brought up a lot of good points that myself and others should pay attention to. As for the stator, that sat on my work bench for a few days after I cleaned them. It was plenty dry. In looking back there are a few things I would have done differently and I will on my next motor. I have one that has a reverse on it that I'll probably do here in a couple of months. What I've learned here will be carried over into that restoration. Thanks again.
Always be sure to clean the rotor thoroughly after sanding/brushing. Any filings caught in the grooves will cause problems. Nice video and an excellent restore.
At my last job, we were told that using electrical tape inside of any electric motor would be grounds for immediate termination of employment. They lost a new 100hp Quincy rotary screw compressor ($30,0000!) because of a splice that was taped. Heat caused the adhesive to soften and allow the tape to unwind and flag and get pulled into the armature. Fire is not your friend. Shrink tubing is, lol.
@@superdog1964 Even if it does not unwind, repeated heat cycles will cause most common electrical tape to become hard and brittle over time. It will eventually crack and begin to disintegrate. I agree. A good-quality heat-shrink product would have been the ideal choice here. Sencond choice would have been a good quality self-vulcanizing rubber tape then coat the outside of the taped connection with 3M Scotchkote. That taped connection will last for decades. I have taken apart spliced connections using those products that have been in harsh environments for decades and the tape is still perfectly sealed. Fantastic stuff. We used it a lot back in my Navy days for protecting electrical connectors that were exposed to the weather and salt water.
I thought, cool he used some heat shrink on the one wire.. Look there, he's soldering connections inside the crimp connectors, very nice. Oh man, not electrical tape, that crap will turn to goo and get into the armature..
you have to have enough room to slide shrink wrap away from the hot wire. it also has to have enough clearance to cover the coupling and yet shrink to the wire. you could see the insulation on the wire melt away from the heat. all in all a very nice job.
@@peetre I've had heat shrink within a little over an inch of a solder joint and been able to slide it over. It can be done you just have to be slow with the heat. Flux helps. If the heat does shrink the tubing start over. There are also heat shrink butt connectors with solder built in. I agree though, overall nice job.
My humble suggestion, besides the electrical connections and painting, is this. Use a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet. I've busted stuff unintentionally and then just stare at my mistake in unbelief.
I have a motor much like this my father dug out of a dump when he was a kid he fixed it up and it has been used to power a disk sander since 1948. I still have it and use all the time.
10$ says he didn't think about it till after he put the eyelets on the end, didn't want to redo them, I've redone similar because I didn't think ahead.
This channel is so underrated and your skills are not even that bad in fact you have don't fantastic job on the motor i must say that you do need some more precision training in some parts but the rest is perfect. Keep up the good work m8.
Very nice restoration. I was surprised to see how you washed everything in water and amazed you could reuse the windings. I have an old grinder this vintage. I may try to open it up and see if I can get it to work. Much better grinder than a new one.
anthony c phillips Same here. When I got the old boathouse at our cabin ready to be torn down, I hauled out the homemade winch my grandpa made and which had a motor likely as old as this one (but it wasn’t a centrifugal start type). Biggest problem would have been getting it off the frame which was caked with pitch black grease in places, and my folks would have pitched a fuss over the possibility of me tracking grease into the cabin. Oh well, what’s done is done.
Never in my life have I seen someone clean a start switch, motor winding , or sleeve bearings in soapy water before this day. Nor have I seen sleeve bearings get sandblasted haha.
Great restoration. I have just done the the on an old Vickers motor. The one thing I wasn't sure about was the oil pots. I kept squirting oil in the and they were not filling up. You have shown me I need to put in string to hold & drip feed the oil onto the spindle.
Super. Poland Polska. Piękna pasją lubię silniki elektryczne mam parę simens schuckert przedwojenne 1930 rok podziwiam ludzi którzy zbierają silniki zabytkowe pozdrawiam mirek
You did a great job bringing it back from death, but why didn't you use shrink tube on the motor connections instead of electrical tape? I never rely on electrical tape in such a situation. Shrink tube does a better job and you don't have to worry about it unwrapping and causing any electrical issues. Just my opinion. Thumbs Up!
I always admire the ingenuity of restoration projects like this, but I've rarely seen one that makes economic sense, Considering the time and trouble involved, it's easier and cheaper to scrap the old one and buy new.
Couldn't see the numerals in outer edge of thumbnail, could only read "xx0 year old motor". But I have an old GE motor on my compressor, it has bearings that must be oiled by hand, I took the spec plate to a motor service shop and was told it is at least 60 years old, HP rating is 1.5 but it drives a Binks 2 stage pump that would normally require a 5 HP rating, because HP was rated differently back then, and the frame size of the motor is much larger than a modern motor of that HP range. It is in daily service, runs fine, all original, never rebuilt as far as I can tell, I've had it for over 30 years.
Is the rotor pulling itself backwards upon start. Doesn't it cause alignment issues when you mount a belt onto it.it is really interesting to see a motor without bearing mounts.Nice work.
Awesome. This is very helpful I just got a lathe that used this motor. This is prob a dumb question but I can find a thing anywhere on it. What type of oil is used in this motor? Thankyou in advanced for any response.
Dang. That spider or whatever made that motor his condo! I don't know how you made heads or tails out of that mess, but you did and it runs!! Great work.
waw, you've got some haters commenting too man, i'm so sorry about that :( Anyway, watching this, i've learnt a bunch more, I also would've done things differently, which leads me to this question... Were these the tools you had available to do this magnificent job, my hats off for you man, like I said, magnificent! You must have an eye for detail, but get yourself a sandblaster or make one, and a dremel with necessary tools, those 2 are just a must when doing a restorations. Keep those video's coming man, this is good stuff for teachers teaching chop or metal works!
Nice restoration. You never know just what you’re going to find inside motors that old. I think you were quite lucky that the wiring wasn’t completely shot. Good job.
I was worried I would break some of the winding wires. I didn't know how brittle they were. The insulation was flaking off so I had to be careful with that.
The coils are coated with some kind of protection. Everything looked in good shape so I went ahead and finished it as if they were fine. It turns out there were. You can see the motor being used in another video I made. .. th-cam.com/video/B_1pYccubYg/w-d-xo.html
I've got about a half dozen of these ranging from the 1930s to the 1970s, in varying conditions that I plan to start restoring soon. The old school ones are particularly daunting for me right now.
The old-school ones are probably _less_ challenging to restore, because they were made to be stripped & re-assembled, while the modern s#!t tends to be all crimped & glued together. A friend of mine worked for an appliance manufacturer in the 80s and at that time already, masking (painter's) tape was a major component of domestic fridges. Most of the interior moulding was held in place with rolls and rolls of the stuff until the insulation foam was blown in to take over the load - good luck repairing something made like that.
That motor is an induction motor with a capacitor start winding and a thermal fuse. 90 years old would bring us back in 1930! I believe it is much more recent than.
That is ridiculous...my father has a few of these and I was afraid they are full of pcbs...but I'm encouraged by your efforts...I notice you left the stator alone...did you test it before you did all that work?
I agree wally, it's becoming the "normal" thing to do though. I suppose it makes the video easier to put together though. There is a reason I don't sub to hardly any of these "restore channels", sometimes it's because of stupid background music and sometimes it's because there's nothing really going on beside wash, paint, and assemble. The word multi-media is lost hehe
Nice video! This thing is so old, I didn't know they had electricity back then. I rather expected him to find some extinct insects in there... btw, the double speed for some scenes is a good idea.
I wish you had your shop somewhere in southwest WI so I could hire you to restore an old delco motor that powers an old Voss wringer washing machine...
@@davidk8893 Any cloth wrapping around copper wire windings in vintage motors must be assumed to be asbestos insulation. this was the preferred method of the time in any single or 3 phase electric motors. The 1 HP single phase motor that runs my old metal lathe both the rotor and stator windings are all varnish coated asbestos cloth insulated copper windings. it's about being aware and playing on the side of caution..
I was mesmorized by the way you did that motor and I had just watched you restore the compressor; amazing job! I would agree with another commenter about using black tape; even though you're connections were solid i would fear the same issue as the adhesive would get to hot. I'm not sure if it would work but there is liquid black tape, it really never sets up to hard, but I would think that would work better than black tape. Just a thought! I did just subscribe to your channel. Very awesome work :).
3M makes a rubber splicing tape specifically for insulating connections like these, that are exposed to heat and harsh conditions. It will last for decades......at least.... I've been using it for over 30 years and have never had it fail.
Muito legal, feito com muito esmero! Resultado final fabuloso! MAS... Restaurar um motor sem enrolar novamente as bobinas é tenso! Pode não durar muito se for submetido a trabalhos constantes. A folga axial monstra no eixo pode causar até travamentos! E como muitos comentaram: Emendas com fita isolante adesiva dentro de um motor, levando em conta as elevadas temperaturas que alcança é pedir pra ter problemas em breve! Mais seguro e com melhor acabamento um termo retrátil ou fita auto-fusão (sou fã incondicional dessa fita! Rsrsrs!!!). A falta dos ilhós em passagens de fios pela carcaça onde há quinas vivas é também um detalhe que vai trazer dores de cabeça e das fortes!
What is the name of those metal wire connectors used to splice the those wires? They don't look anything like the butt-connectors I've used. Good video. Thx.
Subscribing is good for your soul.
Two Hands Restorations and good for your wallet
Yes, but not sure watching other people do good work is, but it sure is enjoyable. Thanks for sharing!
really nice idea very liked gorgeous
You should have rebuilt the copper coils as well.
That looks like a"'Robbins & Myers" motor. Please restore the data plate also. Tips can be found here www.afcaforum.com/view_topic.php?id=22626&forum_id=1&highlight=restoring+id+tags
Nice restoration. But,,, couple items for next time. One, always use a grommet when a wire passed through a metal hole. The starter capacitor wires are in danger of shorting from rubbing on the motor housing due to vibration over time.. Second, the armature end play is excessive, on older motors like this it was usually set by shims on the end of the armature shaft. Notice how the armature moves in and out when you power it up and down. Third, I have to agree re the shrink tube or kapton tape, even 3M 88 gets soft if heated to temps a motor can easily reach.
I don't know why, but there's something appealing about the sound of an old electric motor, especially the big ones. Must be something about the type of metal used in the armature and windings that make them sound a bit different the modern motors.
Friendly advice for the future electric restorations:
-In motors do not use duct tape. Shrink tube instead.
-Use high temperature tolerant wires if you are soldering (look at the shrinking of the plastic while soldering)
-Always use isolation transformer when you power up such old equipment. The lacquer on the magnet wire tend to weaken and cause a leakage to the body of the motor. This may lead to electric shock.
I was amused by your revving your impact gun after removing the drive pulley. :D
Answer to some of the questions raised. The motor is a single phase capacitor start. The internal centrifugal switch opens the start windings when it is up to speed, the capacitor gives a phase shift. If the switch doesn't operate as soon as the motor is up to speed the start windings can burn out. It should only takes 2 or 3 seconds if it hangs on I would put a new switch in, I expect they are still available. Check it under load when the compressor is back together.
A 1/2 hp would be 375W current will depend on the voltage if its 220V W=IV I=375/220 = 1.7A (approx.)
The bearings will be plain usually bronze with grooves for the oil to lubricate. The wick needs to have oil added periodically depending how often its run.
I was surprised when you washed the Stator windings (coils). How did you dry them? When I worked in a repair shop we would dry them in a big oven for 2 - 3 hours then megger test for good resistance to earth, 2Mohm or above, before re varnish was applied.
IMPORTANT make sure to restore the earth wire as if you get a fault your whole compressor could become live with dire consequences.
The shrink tube already mentioned. If this is you first attempt at refurbishing a motor you have done a reasonable job.
Back in the day I must have repaired 100's of these never kept count. I used to do re winds mainly.
Great information. I appreciate your commenting. I'm no expert obviously but I am having fun doing this. You've brought up a lot of good points that myself and others should pay attention to. As for the stator, that sat on my work bench for a few days after I cleaned them. It was plenty dry. In looking back there are a few things I would have done differently and I will on my next motor. I have one that has a reverse on it that I'll probably do here in a couple of months. What I've learned here will be carried over into that restoration. Thanks again.
Look at the big brain on Eric!
Always be sure to clean the rotor thoroughly after sanding/brushing. Any filings caught in the grooves will cause problems. Nice video and an excellent restore.
I think shrink wrap would have looked more professional than electric tape.
At my last job, we were told that using electrical tape inside of any electric motor would be grounds for immediate termination of employment. They lost a new 100hp Quincy rotary screw compressor ($30,0000!) because of a splice that was taped. Heat caused the adhesive to soften and allow the tape to unwind and flag and get pulled into the armature. Fire is not your friend. Shrink tubing is, lol.
@@superdog1964 Even if it does not unwind, repeated heat cycles will cause most common electrical tape to become hard and brittle over time. It will eventually crack and begin to disintegrate. I agree. A good-quality heat-shrink product would have been the ideal choice here. Sencond choice would have been a good quality self-vulcanizing rubber tape then coat the outside of the taped connection with 3M Scotchkote. That taped connection will last for decades. I have taken apart spliced connections using those products that have been in harsh environments for decades and the tape is still perfectly sealed. Fantastic stuff. We used it a lot back in my Navy days for protecting electrical connectors that were exposed to the weather and salt water.
I thought, cool he used some heat shrink on the one wire.. Look there, he's soldering connections inside the crimp connectors, very nice. Oh man, not electrical tape, that crap will turn to goo and get into the armature..
you have to have enough room to slide shrink wrap away from the hot wire. it also has to have enough clearance to cover the coupling and yet shrink to the wire. you could see the insulation on the wire melt away from the heat. all in all a very nice job.
@@peetre I've had heat shrink within a little over an inch of a solder joint and been able to slide it over. It can be done you just have to be slow with the heat. Flux helps. If the heat does shrink the tubing start over.
There are also heat shrink butt connectors with solder built in.
I agree though, overall nice job.
Careful with the paint stripper!
If it gets on the magnet wire it'll eat away the insulating enamel!!!
Nice job btw...
My humble suggestion, besides the electrical connections and painting, is this. Use a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet. I've busted stuff unintentionally and then just stare at my mistake in unbelief.
I have a motor much like this my father dug out of a dump when he was a kid he fixed it up and it has been used to power a disk sander since 1948. I still have it and use all the time.
Beautiful work!!!! 🤩
Nice job! Maybe shrink tubing would’ve been a better choice to wrap those wire connectors rather than electrical tape. Keep up the good work!
10$ says he didn't think about it till after he put the eyelets on the end, didn't want to redo them, I've redone similar because I didn't think ahead.
This channel is so underrated and your skills are not even that bad in fact you have don't fantastic job on the motor i must say that you do need some more precision training in some parts but the rest is perfect. Keep up the good work m8.
Excellent work and very satisfying to watch.
Nice work…👍🏼
Turned out very nice...
Superb restoration !
Thank you
@@TwoHandsRestorations your welcome!
Nice ❤️❤️❤️
Very nice restoration. I was surprised to see how you washed everything in water and amazed you could reuse the windings. I have an old grinder this vintage. I may try to open it up and see if I can get it to work. Much better grinder than a new one.
Please tell me that electrical tape was use for trolling purposes.
You had shrink tubing, you could've used kapton instead.
Very nice! Now I feel bad about throwing away my 65 yr old motor I should've restored.
That would have been fun.
anthony c phillips Same here. When I got the old boathouse at our cabin ready to be torn down, I hauled out the homemade winch my grandpa made and which had a motor likely as old as this one (but it wasn’t a centrifugal start type). Biggest problem would have been getting it off the frame which was caked with pitch black grease in places, and my folks would have pitched a fuss over the possibility of me tracking grease into the cabin. Oh well, what’s done is done.
very nice restore THANK YOU for using a grounded cord
If you look closely... he cut it
Awesome job my friend!👍👍👍
Never in my life have I seen someone clean a start switch, motor winding , or sleeve bearings in soapy water before this day. Nor have I seen sleeve bearings get sandblasted haha.
Very very good👍
Great restoration. I have just done the the on an old Vickers motor. The one thing I wasn't sure about was the oil pots. I kept squirting oil in the and they were not filling up. You have shown me I need to put in string to hold & drip feed the oil onto the spindle.
Thanks for this good restoration 👌👌
You are welcome
Just beautiful and most inspiring!
BRAVO!!
Super. Poland Polska. Piękna pasją lubię silniki elektryczne mam parę simens schuckert przedwojenne 1930 rok podziwiam ludzi którzy zbierają silniki zabytkowe pozdrawiam mirek
Nice to see how you took that old motor and cleaned it up.
Runs like a brand new motor!!
You did a great job bringing it back from death, but why didn't you use shrink tube on the motor connections instead of electrical tape? I never rely on electrical tape in such a situation. Shrink tube does a better job and you don't have to worry about it unwrapping and causing any electrical issues. Just my opinion. Thumbs Up!
You are right. Shrink tubing is more reliable. The tubing I have wouldn't fit over the connectors. I need to get bigger tubing for jobs like this.
@@TwoHandsRestorations in a pinch, very small zip ties over the tape will prevent unwrapping. Nice job and entertaining video btw
@@TwoHandsRestorations Perhaps to forget the connecters and just solder wires with shrink tubing over?
A joy to see you at work!
Nice work. I enjoyed watching and your presentation was great.
Thank You.
I love your oil pump!
I always admire the ingenuity of restoration projects like this, but I've rarely seen one that makes economic sense, Considering the time and trouble involved, it's easier and cheaper to scrap the old one and buy new.
His soldering skills gives me anxiety
You've called that 'skills'?..
Topped off with vinyl electrical tape.
YES. I observed cold joints with great anxiety, too. Take a shop class, please.
Brilliant to watch...did this go with the red and white compressor?
Nice job. Restoring that old stuff is fun. PLEASE purchase a brass hammer or a brass punch.
Couldn't see the numerals in outer edge of thumbnail, could only read "xx0 year old motor". But I have an old GE motor on my compressor, it has bearings that must be oiled by hand, I took the spec plate to a motor service shop and was told it is at least 60 years old, HP rating is 1.5 but it drives a Binks 2 stage pump that would normally require a 5 HP rating, because HP was rated differently back then, and the frame size of the motor is much larger than a modern motor of that HP range. It is in daily service, runs fine, all original, never rebuilt as far as I can tell, I've had it for over 30 years.
How can anyone not “like” this restoration? Bravo!!!
a very nice job ¡
Lots of fun to watch.
What did you end up doing with the ground wire?
Is the rotor pulling itself backwards upon start. Doesn't it cause alignment issues when you mount a belt onto it.it is really interesting to see a motor without bearing mounts.Nice work.
The shaft moves a little bit but nowhere near enough to cause any problems. Thanks for watching.
How did you know which capacitor to use?
Nice video. What did you do with the ground wire?
I cut it off. It originally didn't have a ground... but, looking back (before your question) I thought I should have wired the ground to the body.
1:30 - I'm the same way when I defeat something like that. "Ahhhh! That'll teach ya!"
Great work. ✔️💯🏆
Thanks so much for sharing. 😉👌🏼
Awesome. This is very helpful I just got a lathe that used this motor. This is prob a dumb question but I can find a thing anywhere on it. What type of oil is used in this motor? Thankyou in advanced for any response.
Also is the whole in the back also for oil? Thankyou again very helpful video.
Dang. That spider or whatever made that motor his condo! I don't know how you made heads or tails out of that mess, but you did and it runs!! Great work.
Beautiful!
Thank You
So the string is a good replacement for the original felt and there's no problems with it? How do you get the oil cups out?
Beautiful job!
May I ask where you attached the new ground wire inside the motor, please?
why electrical tape at 12:30 (inside the motor)? that's gonna peel off after a while - no? why not use heat shrink tubing?
Amazing!
What is the canister on top?
That is the start capacitor. It adds extra torque to the motor until it gets up to speed.
waw, you've got some haters commenting too man, i'm so sorry about that :(
Anyway, watching this, i've learnt a bunch more, I also would've done things differently, which leads me to this question...
Were these the tools you had available to do this magnificent job, my hats off for you man, like I said, magnificent!
You must have an eye for detail, but get yourself a sandblaster or make one, and a dremel with necessary tools, those 2 are just a must when doing a restorations.
Keep those video's coming man, this is good stuff for teachers teaching chop or metal works!
Nice restotion 👌
Where did you connect the green wire, to the body for earthing ?
hello all right? Did you change the bronze bearings or do I leave the original ones?
I left the originals in there.
So we're figuring those old windings are good to go? What is the cylinder on top, resistor? fuse?
That is the starter capacitor. It gives the motor a quick shot of extra power to get it going.
Good job :) but no primer when spraying it?
This paint requires no primer. I don't know what the difference is but some require it and some don't.
You have an amazing talent sir
Hi bro 👋👋👋 good to see you 🤝🤝🤝 very good restoration electric motor 👍👍👍
Many Many Thanks.
Nice restoration. You never know just what you’re going to find inside motors that old.
I think you were quite lucky that the wiring wasn’t completely shot. Good job.
I was worried I would break some of the winding wires. I didn't know how brittle they were. The insulation was flaking off so I had to be careful with that.
Es un Trabajo con tremendo talento y calidad👍🚜🚜🚜
nice vesy ache kopsis ki apny
Is that a century motor? Looks to me like one. I have a half hp running my bandsaw. Lovely motors
Made by "Marathon Motors".
how did youknow the motor coils were still good and no need rewinding?
The coils are coated with some kind of protection. Everything looked in good shape so I went ahead and finished it as if they were fine. It turns out there were. You can see the motor being used in another video I made. .. th-cam.com/video/B_1pYccubYg/w-d-xo.html
what was the power of this motor? and voltage?
I think 90 years back ALUMINIUM casting was not used for motor cover plates . West German introduced this in 1955
look amazing good work
Amazing work! 🧐😃
This guy is doing a good job. Please subscribe...
Thank You.
I've got about a half dozen of these ranging from the 1930s to the 1970s, in varying conditions that I plan to start restoring soon. The old school ones are particularly daunting for me right now.
The old-school ones are probably _less_ challenging to restore, because they were made to be stripped & re-assembled, while the modern s#!t tends to be all crimped & glued together. A friend of mine worked for an appliance manufacturer in the 80s and at that time already, masking (painter's) tape was a major component of domestic fridges. Most of the interior moulding was held in place with rolls and rolls of the stuff until the insulation foam was blown in to take over the load - good luck repairing something made like that.
Did you replace that bushes?
Question: how powerfull is this engine and from which year?
Good job
Thank you
Sandblasting camera work excellent
First of all: great work. I would not know how to restore a motor. Thumbs up. Aren't you concerned about lead in the paint?
Where did you get that puller at?
That's impressive!
That motor is an induction motor with a capacitor start winding and a thermal fuse. 90 years old would bring us back in 1930! I believe it is much more recent than.
Yeah,I'm thinking 1950s
That is ridiculous...my father has a few of these and I was afraid they are full of pcbs...but I'm encouraged by your efforts...I notice you left the stator alone...did you test it before you did all that work?
That paint striping gel looks delicious
I enjoyed the video.
Your vedios are give me fresh mind than you
Really wish you would tell us what you're doing and what part you're taking off and all that jazz???????
I'd like to know too, so I could learn!
I agree wally, it's becoming the "normal" thing to do though. I suppose it makes the video easier to put together though. There is a reason I don't sub to hardly any of these "restore channels", sometimes it's because of stupid background music and sometimes it's because there's nothing really going on beside wash, paint, and assemble. The word multi-media is lost hehe
Nice video! This thing is so old, I didn't know they had electricity back then. I rather expected him to find some extinct insects in there... btw, the double speed for some scenes is a good idea.
Nice job.
Awsome video. Good job. But i did cringe when you put varnish remover on the winding section cause the wires are varnished
I wish you had your shop somewhere in southwest WI so I could hire you to restore an old delco motor that powers an old Voss wringer washing machine...
Very nice but I think my granddad’s fan is just gonna have to be for decoration.
Is that a general electric motor
always remember the windings in these old motors are asbestos windings, good idea to wear a mask in the event of any accumulated dust inside😉
That is not true. There is likely no asbestos in that motor at all. The coating on the windings is shellac or some similar varnish material.
@@davidk8893
Any cloth wrapping around copper wire windings in vintage motors must be assumed to be asbestos insulation. this was the preferred method of the time in any single or 3 phase electric motors.
The 1 HP single phase motor that runs my old metal lathe both the rotor and stator windings are all varnish coated asbestos cloth insulated copper windings. it's about being aware and playing on the side of caution..
From Iraq 🌹👍
I was mesmorized by the way you did that motor and I had just watched you restore the compressor; amazing job! I would agree with another commenter about using black tape; even though you're connections were solid i would fear the same issue as the adhesive would get to hot. I'm not sure if it would work but there is liquid black tape, it really never sets up to hard, but I would think that would work better than black tape. Just a thought! I did just subscribe to your channel. Very awesome work :).
3M makes a rubber splicing tape specifically for insulating connections like these, that are exposed to heat and harsh conditions. It will last for decades......at least.... I've been using it for over 30 years and have never had it fail.
Muito legal, feito com muito esmero! Resultado final fabuloso!
MAS... Restaurar um motor sem enrolar novamente as bobinas é tenso! Pode não durar muito se for submetido a trabalhos constantes. A folga axial monstra no eixo pode causar até travamentos!
E como muitos comentaram: Emendas com fita isolante adesiva dentro de um motor, levando em conta as elevadas temperaturas que alcança é pedir pra ter problemas em breve! Mais seguro e com melhor acabamento um termo retrátil ou fita auto-fusão (sou fã incondicional dessa fita! Rsrsrs!!!). A falta dos ilhós em passagens de fios pela carcaça onde há quinas vivas é também um detalhe que vai trazer dores de cabeça e das fortes!
What is the name of those metal wire connectors used to splice the those wires? They don't look anything like the butt-connectors I've used. Good video. Thx.