When I was a kid my great grandparents had a working one in the early 70s. I've never seen one that was ever restored. One of the reasons why I love TH-cam. It can take you to places that were once in the past, dead to the newer generations. Thank you for posting the video
@@justmeva As a young fulla back in the 60's we would visit this old fit WW1 veteran who had about the place a number of out of date usable things for us kids to get into to look and towonder. One that fascinated us very much was his old hand cranking water pump just like this one. We would have to stand behind the thing and prepare to do battle with it as it would take a good 4 minutes of frantic pumping for the beautiful clear cool tasting water to come flowing from the pump by the bucket fulls. A very refreshing drink indeed it was on one of our hot hot summers here in Aotearoa as a boy.
I'm shocked and saddened reading all the rude and ignorant comments being left for a man's work simply bc he didn't do it as they saw fit. There's not a right way to do anything in life and the end product is all that matters and his work speaks for itself. Always professional and thorough.. And yes nothing wrong with removing mold lines and marks or resurfacing to make it lol brand new. If you leave it original great, if you fix it perfect great.. Someone will appreciate the work either way..
Thank you for the good word. The comments use to dishearten me to the point I wouldn't read them. They got me down a lot. Then I realized they were affecting me and I didn't like it. Now, when I read negative comments, I laugh a little and move on. You can't please everyone.
That's always the critical quest when it come to items like this: just clean it, fix it, or off the shelf. It's all down to personal preference and the skills and equipment one has.
To clean the inside of a cylinder, you can use a 1/4 inch thick rod with a slot cut on one end with a hack saw or a better tool, put a strip of sand paper in the slot and put the rod in your die grinder. It works marvelous. I fix a lot of steering axles king pins on heavy duty highway trucks, I use this method to cut the bore to final size to fit the pin when I have to bore the axle and fit a sleeve. We have a reamers for fitting the few different size sleeve trucks uses but not for fitting the new pins. I could use stones that we have but I prefer to use the sand paper with the die grinder. It's faster. I thought about this when you were cleaning with your die grinder at the 9:21 mark.
The sign of a first class iron casting company is that all castings are completely cleared of casting defects,a top quality finish is always better on the eye,and also the use of the casting,always good to have good fettlers,
Mate, these pumps go out for like 40-50€ (and that includes having to make the center bore). Do you really think they got budget in that for doing a top notch cleanup job?
@TheJR1948 I actually prefer the original casting marks. It wasn't perfectly made originally so I would leave it as it was manufactured without grinding down any sand cast markings.
Really enjoyed that. I'm not a metal worker, so can't comment on any technique there, I thought it looked great. But coming from the print design industry, you could get tidier results on your raised lettering by taking a piece of felt, sticking it to a firm board (MDF, scrap wood, etc) to make a soft-sided plate, kind of like a stamp. Apply the paint evenly across the felt (don't soak it) and then dab the felt across the lettering. The backing board reduces paint bleeding too far beyond the top edge and keeps the falloff even. Use different thicknesses of felt depending on how textured your letters are.
congratulations.. you took a rusty old thing that was how old? maybe 100 years,, and brought it back to useful and beautiful life for maybe another 100 years.. and then you took the time to share with us each step of the way.. imagine how pleased someone back in the pioneer days would have been if presented with this most useful household device :-) well done..
Another fantastic job. At first I thought you lost your mind when you put that ball into the glove. That was genius. I could not believe that you broke that ear off. When you were using the reverse drill outs I thought you were going to break it then. I still can't believe it happened by just putting the tap in there. You did a great job repairing that. I love those pump heads. I have one in my bathroom. It's a lot smaller version of it and you do not need to pump it to get water to come out. You just lift the handle move it left the right for hot or cold. The manufacturer has a water flow restrictor inside so that you don't make a mess every time you turn it on. Again great job look forward to watching more of your videos.
I think there's a difference between slight casting marks and poorly made or worn out casting molds. I think you made the right choice. Very nice results! Thanks.
I pulled a Crescent adjustable wrench out of the neighbors scrap pile once. His son had used it for a hammer, and swedged the thing up so bad you couldn't turn the adjusting screw. I took the pin out, removed the screw and sliding jaw, deburred the thing and gave it back to him, pointing out why it was jammed up. I'm SURE it will get used as a hammer again, if it hasn't already.
Looks great! 👍 I didn’t see it in the video but I recall the leather flapper needs a disc weight attached with a nut and bolt 🔩 to hold its shape and complete the seal. The pump won’t hold its prime otherwise. My folks bought a 10 acre farm with a two bedroom house that had a pump like that at the kitchen sink. Paid $3k for it all in 1959.
Greg O You're correct. There is a cabin where I spend a lot of time that has just that kind of pump outside as it's only water source. The leathers don't like being frozen so we have to regularly replace them. That weight helps it to seal as it holds the flapper down and plugs up that hole in the middle. We would only have to prime the pump once in the Spring even if we didn't come back until September.
I would absolutely leave the castings original. It gives me a chill watching restorers remove what they see as defects. But hey, full marks for the restoration. If it weren't for those like you that love putting new life into old things they'd disappear forever.
Fair enough I can see where you are coming from. In my case half the pleasure is just the act of restoring whatever the piece is. It is all down to personal preference . Keep up the good work, by the looks all the positive comments I am in the minority anyway. Each to their own, by no means would I have the courage to film my meagre efforts and open them up to public scrutiny , you are a braver man than me! Cheers Dr Dave.
There's still a working one here in Alaska at the campground in Palmer. Haven't been there in a decade even though it's about a mile away. The sound these make is instantly recognizable.
Nice restore. Invest in a electrolysis tank. I restored an old pitcher pump I rescued from a old farm house that was due to be demolished. I put it in the electrolysis tank for two days. Everything including the 1 1/4" pipe in the base came out easily. No flame wrench required.
GREAT JOB,MOST PEOPLE WOULD HAVE THROWN IT AWAY LIKE OUR SOCIETY,MY GRANDMOTHER HAD ONE IN HER HOUSE UNTIL HURRICANE HAZEL IN THE EARLY 1950s....and outhouse as well....thks.
As you ask for our opinions, for me it is old material (which I knew in my youth) which was functional but "low end", so everything that is exterior should (for me) remain in the appearance of the time leaving the factory (except the broken parts) for what is not visible: modern. That's just my opinion. Nice work.
Leave the imperfections alone. It's what makes it so classic. If you're restoring it, don't try to make it better, just bring it back to the condition it was when it was new.
My aunt Mae had a pump like that at her kitchen sink in an old farmhouse in far northwest Kansas. The house had no electricity, no phone and no running water. The pump brought up water from a cistern, which was filled by collecting rainwater from the roof of the house. When the cistern went dry, she had to carry water in a bucket from the windmill about 30 yards from the house. The windmill kept the stock tank filled for the dairy cattle, which the milked by hand. This was as late as the mid 1960s.
For the part you broke off, you could have brazed it back on. Extremely good attachment with pretty much no damage to anything. Then 'clean up' threads with tap.
There's good arguments for/against taking out cast defects. The defects do add character and uniqueness. So, leaving some of the original 'character' is nice sometimes. But there's also the satisfaction of the appearance of 'perfection'...
We had a water pump at our summer home in Maryland. Unfortunately our water table was contaminated with rust so we brought water from Philadelphia for drinking and cooking. This is a trip back in time.
An original look is always what you want,in this case however you did the right thing,paint job looked great. As always good job well done. Stay healthy you n yours,that goes to everybody out yonder.
we use a product called Citra Solv for rusty stuff. You need to use it before you use a solvent based product tho. I learned this from an old A/C repairman. It works! (sometimes) Love your channel. I do this but probably in a smaller manner. Love to redo anything. Keep it up!!!
So nice to see an old pump working again, I have always wanted one. Personally I liked the rusty flaky patina left by time, adds to the life story of the pump. I would have maybe tried to just get the mechanisms working but kept the look old if possible, otherwise nice job.
If you’re going to paint for durability, remove the defects. Also, build up thin brittle iron BEFORE you tap it. Cast iron has no flex so builds up micro fractures in the crystalline structure.
Actually arc welding on cast iron is common. However the parts should be preheated and then cooled slowly after welding. Also wire welders are not used, only nickle based electrodes which are difficult to machine or grind do a proper job on cast.
nice job. on welding cast iron .. a few tips if you can heat the part to around 400 deg. the wled with nickle rod or nickel mig wire if u can it expensive .. the peen the area with hammer lightly tapping on the area that relieves stress in the weld, then slowly cool the part if u can by burying in a container with sand .👍🇺🇲 love the fact you tried your hand at cast iron while being a new welder😁👍 great video.
And use left hand drill bits. You often get lucky and the stuck bolt comes out. As for the casting cleanup I would have stopped at the grinder. The sander took all the sand mold texture off diminishing the cast iron look. Also if you preheat the casting to 400f the weld will attach better. Brazing would have been better than mig. The mig made hard spots which is why the tap sqweeked and faught you. Enjoyable vid. Post more random stuff!
Need to use a 6011 or 6013 rod for welding cast iron, or the MIG equivalent. Don't know what your setup is like. Nice video. Remember, patience is a virtue.
Thanks for sharing your work with everyone. You can weld cast iron, better to use a rod than a mig. if you heat the entire casting, cut some grooves to fill in, weld it, then let the casting cool down real slow. it will turn out great. I have done it many times very successfully. How did you find the leather gaskets to fit? I do wish you would have used old style bolts to put it back together with. Using modern hex nuts and bolts and set screws seem to take away the antique charm. Overall, great job. I look forward to seeing more projects.
I would love to see a video solving just that problem (it is the 2nd most difficult repair). The leather gaskets fit very nicely, but are easier if soaked so that there is a little bit of flex so they do not mar, tear or gash. Hear, Hear, on using the original style hardware. I cringe every time I see a restoration using hex, modern hardware. To take the time to do such an extensive and labor intensive task, then to put modern hardware on, no.
Cast iron should be brazed not welded. Cast iron becomes very hard in the welded area. You will also find it easier to thread. Also you should back off threading tap 1/4 turn for every 1/2 to 3/4 turn of threading in. Other than that, a good restoration job.
Nice pump and good job. Answering question: it was quite rough casting , I would remove the most obvious defects but not use filler & smooth everything, especially to paint it later by brush.
I think use of filler & sanding is a good practice, but not if you're going to use a hammer finish paint. Overall, I didn't think this was a great job. But so what? A lot of people are wasting a lot of time on this foolishness, which now includes me since I watched most of this.
Very nice work. I have a hand pump I bought new in 1999 (can you guess why? HA!) and I'm currently replacing the cup leather and removing rust on other internal parts. I have a question . . . isn't the lower leather valve supposed to have a weight on it ... bolted on through the hole in the middle of the leather? Yours obviously worked without it during your bucket test, but I wonder if it not being there when you're trying to pull water up from 20 ft. or so will cause a problem. Also, did you coat the inside of the cylinder with anything to aid in rust protection? Again . . . very nice work! Thanks.
I would not have worried about the casting marks, I might have sanded a couple of really bad ones. You do nice work, I would have been really pissed if I had snapped off the ears. All the best, Edgar
The manufacturer's intention is always render the best product and the most good looking they can deliver. Usually the beautifying process are time consuming and thus expensive and if they hold the monopoly of the production of that good they care less the looks. I believe that a restoration offer the opportunity to present the objects in their best they were conceived. But the line stops when we are talking of archaelogical artifacts they should be cleaned and preserved as they were found.
I prefer it when the casting marks are filled in and sanded. It makes it look better when applying spray paint/powder coating. But everyone is different. Great work btw!!! :-)
Honestly 97% of theses comments are amazing congratulating you on ur great good but the 3% of the ungrateful watcher just ruining the comment section its just hurts to read some of theses.
I think that if it is a unique or difficult to obtain piece, a restorer should try to leave it as close as possible to the original. But if it is a common artifact, of which there may be thousands around the world, each one should leave it as it makes him happiest. Greetings from the Patagonia.
In my field of work which is aviation restoration, the FAA book 4313 states when making repairs they should be as good as new if not better, always make it better. Removing flash and casting flaws makes it better.
I agree with removing the casting mold seams, don't like the use of the filler though. Just my opinion. Overall, very nicely done. Could the leather seals be replaced with rubber? One would think rubber would last longer, but maybe there is some other reason, other than originality, for sticking with the leather.
My opinion which isn't worth the paper it's written on is that if the item being restored is a collectible and being restored for that reason, casting defects should be left in tact. If it is being restored for functionality / use then of course they should be removed. The only reason I give my opinion on this is because you asked.
I say remove the casting marks but keep the original hardware (bolts, nuts). Also, if you're going to spend all that time prepping the pieces, consider buying a powder coater or airbrush-- the spray cans and brushes essentially "undo" all that time you just spent prepping.
If you are honestly wanting to get in to welding, i would suggest you start with stick. Stick welding is hard, but you learn how to control your arc length, and how far the electrode is from your work piece. Its also cheaper, i don't know what corner of the world you are in, but you technically can weld with car batteries if you use stick
This was a great item. I wish it was done by a restorer who was a little bit more fit than this person. On the other hand, now I know why the water at Grandpa's place tastes like rustoleum.
Ralph Wiggins I think the same, I expect to see mottling on cast iron... it’s one of the best ways of identifying it, and possibly running the risk of it being thought a reproduction rather than an original... that being said, I’m impressed with his work, and I’m certainly not knocking his efforts! His vids are always impressive!
@@Michigan_Tactical Yeah ... I own a similar hand pump myself, and ofc I ground off all the casting marks (because these are produced cheap a.f. ... quality is as you'd expect for 30€ for a cast part) ... but the actual surface finish (i.e. slight pitting from the casting process) just has to stay because it's part of the thing.
Patriot redneck why? Nothing wrong with making it look better then it would have. Basically taking advantage of modern equipment/consumables. He bogs most stuff he does. No real reason not to, and a few reasons too do it.
Молодец! Все хорошо сделал! Много труда вложил. Еще бы ВСЕ винты, болты, гайки, шайбы поворонил бы - не было бы этого блеска новодела, на благородной старине. Ну и манжету, наверно, чем-то надо смазать ....
Use silicon bronze wire on the mig with pure argon cover gas. You can get 2# spool in .035 or .030 works like butter on broken casting. Stitch weld little at a time release the stress by pinging wit hammer lightly. You could skipped the repair and broken ear if you had backed out a little with the tap. My grandpa told me work smarter not harder you don't know your own strength. Back out a quarter turn every few turns so I don't have come behind you fixing broken ears all day long. Backing out help clear the threads. Same with removing stuck nuts.
Casting defects: Do you like it left original? What would you do? It would depend on if the "defects" are something that might compromise the life/function of object, or would it extend the wear/function. For instance, the pitting would be a place where rust could start all over again, so I'd fix it by adding, not removing. However, removing flashing and casting splatter is just an excuse to improve something. I wouldn't have used the JB Weld for something intended to use around potable water. No rationale for that, I just wouldn't. Likewise I wouldn't have spray painted something to use with potable water. You might think, or say, "well, it's intended for display only," but the next person might think "why not, I'll try it!" and the next thing you know, they are drinking paint chips, because they didn't know any better. You can warn them not to, but fools are so ingenious, that's why it's so darn hard to make something fool proof.
When I was a kid my great grandparents had a working one in the early 70s. I've never seen one that was ever restored. One of the reasons why I love TH-cam. It can take you to places that were once in the past, dead to the newer generations. Thank you for posting the video
Wow! So did my great grandparents. My sister and loved to wash our faces out of it. The water tasted so much better back then.
@@justmeva As a young fulla back in the 60's we would visit this old fit WW1 veteran who had about the place a number of out of date usable things for us kids to get into to look and towonder.
One that fascinated us very much was his old hand cranking water pump just like this one.
We would have to stand behind the thing and prepare to do battle with it as it would take a good 4 minutes of frantic pumping for the beautiful clear cool tasting water to come flowing from the pump by the bucket fulls.
A very refreshing drink indeed it was on one of our hot hot summers here in Aotearoa as a boy.
I like the idea that you are removing all the casting defects. Even though it isn't original, it gives the restoration a more finished appearance .
I'm shocked and saddened reading all the rude and ignorant comments being left for a man's work simply bc he didn't do it as they saw fit. There's not a right way to do anything in life and the end product is all that matters and his work speaks for itself. Always professional and thorough..
And yes nothing wrong with removing mold lines and marks or resurfacing to make it lol brand new. If you leave it original great, if you fix it perfect great.. Someone will appreciate the work either way..
Thank you for the good word. The comments use to dishearten me to the point I wouldn't read them. They got me down a lot. Then I realized they were affecting me and I didn't like it. Now, when I read negative comments, I laugh a little and move on. You can't please everyone.
Exactly 👍
That's always the critical quest when it come to items like this: just clean it, fix it, or off the shelf. It's all down to personal preference and the skills and equipment one has.
Removing imperfections is just fine, that`s the way the apparatus should have been manufactured first place, perfection should be everyone`s goal
To clean the inside of a cylinder, you can use a 1/4 inch thick rod with a slot cut on one end with a hack saw or a better tool, put a strip of sand paper in the slot and put the rod in your die grinder. It works marvelous. I fix a lot of steering axles king pins on heavy duty highway trucks, I use this method to cut the bore to final size to fit the pin when I have to bore the axle and fit a sleeve. We have a reamers for fitting the few different size sleeve trucks uses but not for fitting the new pins. I could use stones that we have but I prefer to use the sand paper with the die grinder. It's faster. I thought about this when you were cleaning with your die grinder at the 9:21 mark.
The sign of a first class iron casting company is that all castings are completely cleared of casting defects,a top quality finish is always better on the eye,and also the use of the casting,always good to have good fettlers,
Mate, these pumps go out for like 40-50€ (and that includes having to make the center bore). Do you really think they got budget in that for doing a top notch cleanup job?
@TheJR1948 I actually prefer the original casting marks. It wasn't perfectly made originally so I would leave it as it was manufactured without grinding down any sand cast markings.
@TheJR1948 They live outdoors in sun, sleet, snow, high winds and rain. The ones I used were painted even if the paint was was peeling off
Really enjoyed that. I'm not a metal worker, so can't comment on any technique there, I thought it looked great. But coming from the print design industry, you could get tidier results on your raised lettering by taking a piece of felt, sticking it to a firm board (MDF, scrap wood, etc) to make a soft-sided plate, kind of like a stamp. Apply the paint evenly across the felt (don't soak it) and then dab the felt across the lettering. The backing board reduces paint bleeding too far beyond the top edge and keeps the falloff even. Use different thicknesses of felt depending on how textured your letters are.
I will try it.
ELIASPETERI ANUY LIIKOTILA
The cool thing is that these really never become obsolete
My grandparents had this in their kitchen. Woe to the one who didn't refill the water can. :) Happy memories. Thank you.
congratulations.. you took a rusty old thing that was how old? maybe 100 years,, and brought it back to useful and beautiful life for maybe another 100 years.. and then you took the time to share with us each step of the way.. imagine how pleased someone back in the pioneer days would have been if presented with this most useful household device :-) well done..
Another fantastic job. At first I thought you lost your mind when you put that ball into the glove. That was genius. I could not believe that you broke that ear off. When you were using the reverse drill outs I thought you were going to break it then. I still can't believe it happened by just putting the tap in there. You did a great job repairing that.
I love those pump heads. I have one in my bathroom. It's a lot smaller version of it and you do not need to pump it to get water to come out. You just lift the handle move it left the right for hot or cold. The manufacturer has a water flow restrictor inside so that you don't make a mess every time you turn it on.
Again great job look forward to watching more of your videos.
Wow 🤩 You give the new generation chance to see old equipment
I think there's a difference between slight casting marks and poorly made or worn out casting molds. I think you made the right choice. Very nice results! Thanks.
1:15 I hear my Dad say "Boy, what part of that aint a hammer don't you understand?" lol
I pulled a Crescent adjustable wrench out of the neighbors scrap pile once. His son had used it for a hammer, and swedged the thing up so bad you couldn't turn the adjusting screw.
I took the pin out, removed the screw and sliding jaw,
deburred the thing and gave it back to him, pointing out why it was jammed up.
I'm SURE it will get used as a hammer again, if it hasn't already.
The should be a little hammer had there because we all do it sometimes!
Heard my Pop's voice as well.
And if I did it again, swish goes the sound of that belt thru the belt loops!
I stumbled across this video several months ago and it got me started on doing restorations. Thank you for inspiring me.
Looks great! 👍 I didn’t see it in the video but I recall the leather flapper needs a disc weight attached with a nut and bolt 🔩 to hold its shape and complete the seal. The pump won’t hold its prime otherwise. My folks bought a 10 acre farm with a two bedroom house that had a pump like that at the kitchen sink. Paid $3k for it all in 1959.
Greg O You're correct. There is a cabin where I spend a lot of time that has just that kind of pump outside as it's only water source. The leathers don't like being frozen so we have to regularly replace them. That weight helps it to seal as it holds the flapper down and plugs up that hole in the middle. We would only have to prime the pump once in the Spring even if we didn't come back until September.
I love the casting defects on old things they make them unique not machine perfect molds made. Way more hand made feel and i love it
I would absolutely leave the castings original. It gives me a chill watching restorers remove what they see as defects. But hey, full marks for the restoration. If it weren't for those like you that love putting new life into old things they'd disappear forever.
Fair enough I can see where you are coming from. In my case half the pleasure is just the act of restoring whatever the piece is. It is all down to personal preference . Keep up the good work, by the looks all the positive comments I am in the minority anyway. Each to their own, by no means would I have the courage to film my meagre efforts and open them up to public scrutiny , you are a braver man than me! Cheers Dr Dave.
I like the fact you remove the old cast marks... looks cleaner and neater in my opinion
I can't decide which is more relaxing; watching the sand blasting or lathe work.
I like to see old antique things restored and brought back to working again.
The first "running water" indoors and out. Love seeing this restored, excellent color choice, glad you put it to the test.
There's still a working one here in Alaska at the campground in Palmer. Haven't been there in a decade even though it's about a mile away.
The sound these make is instantly recognizable.
Very cool. I lived in Palmer, Sutton and Anchorage as a child and then we moved down to the lower 48 in '73.
Nice restore.
Invest in a electrolysis tank. I restored an old pitcher pump I rescued from a old farm house that was due to be demolished. I put it in the electrolysis tank for two days. Everything including the 1 1/4" pipe in the base came out easily. No flame wrench required.
GREAT JOB,MOST PEOPLE WOULD HAVE THROWN IT AWAY LIKE OUR SOCIETY,MY GRANDMOTHER HAD ONE IN HER HOUSE UNTIL HURRICANE HAZEL IN THE EARLY 1950s....and outhouse as well....thks.
Wonderful ! Colors are perfect. Love that you painted the lettering.
huskyjerk I agree. It looks great but I would have done the lettering in gold paint.
God watching the sandblasting take the rust off was satisfying. It's like hes painting it grey but hes not. Really nice to watch.
Use this word a lot with your restos, lovely!
Very beautiful! I especially love the colour, gorgeous! You do great work!
Nice trick for doing the lettering, and I liked the demonstration that the pump works , and works well.
I recently really started getting into watching these restorations. And I'm mesmerized by them!! This well pump is a great one! Nice work!!
R red RSS with with corona or
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Really appreciate seeing it work in the end.
Whoever does the restoration decides how far the restoration goes.
As you ask for our opinions, for me it is old material (which I knew in my youth) which was functional but "low end", so everything that is exterior should (for me) remain in the appearance of the time leaving the factory (except the broken parts) for what is not visible: modern. That's just my opinion. Nice work.
Leave the imperfections alone. It's what makes it so classic. If you're restoring it, don't try to make it better, just bring it back to the condition it was when it was new.
If alternating current ever stops working, these old mechanical gadgets could come in real handy.
My aunt Mae had a pump like that at her kitchen sink in an old farmhouse in far northwest Kansas. The house had no electricity, no phone and no running water. The pump brought up water from a cistern, which was filled by collecting rainwater from the roof of the house. When the cistern went dry, she had to carry water in a bucket from the windmill about 30 yards from the house. The windmill kept the stock tank filled for the dairy cattle, which the milked by hand. This was as late as the mid 1960s.
That Pump Is The Best One I Have Ever Seen In My Life Two Hands!!!
For the part you broke off, you could have brazed it back on. Extremely good attachment with pretty much no damage to anything. Then 'clean up' threads with tap.
There's good arguments for/against taking out cast defects. The defects do add character and uniqueness.
So, leaving some of the original 'character' is nice sometimes. But there's also the satisfaction of the appearance of 'perfection'...
We had a water pump at our summer home in Maryland. Unfortunately our water table was contaminated with rust so we brought water from Philadelphia for drinking and cooking. This is a trip back in time.
An original look is always what you want,in this case however you did the right thing,paint job looked great. As always good job well done. Stay healthy you n yours,that goes to everybody out yonder.
@Mike Nunyabizness What paint was that? I thought all paints were safe now.
we use a product called Citra Solv for rusty stuff. You need to use it before you use a solvent based product tho. I learned this from an old A/C repairman. It works! (sometimes) Love your channel. I do this but probably in a smaller manner. Love to redo anything. Keep it up!!!
So nice to see an old pump working again, I have always wanted one. Personally I liked the rusty flaky patina left by time, adds to the life story of the pump. I would have maybe tried to just get the mechanisms working but kept the look old if possible, otherwise nice job.
Keep up with the welding. You'll get there!
Worth considering some anti-spatter spray. It helps prevent spatter adhering in the area around your weld.
If you’re going to paint for durability, remove the defects. Also, build up thin brittle iron BEFORE you tap it. Cast iron has no flex so builds up micro fractures in the crystalline structure.
Never arc weld on cast iron. You should have brazed the broken part back on. Save the arc welding for steel, not cast iron.
Railfan 439 , He hasn't watched Abom79 or read the comments there, for sure.
Actually arc welding on cast iron is common. However the parts should be preheated and then cooled slowly after welding. Also wire welders are not used, only nickle based electrodes which are difficult to machine or grind do a proper job on cast.
Yes, pre heat and use nickel rod.
Railfan 439 he used a mig welder.
That wasn't an arc welder, lil buddy
I think you always make things look better and actually WORK.
ELIASPETERI ANUY LIIKOTILA
nice job. on welding cast iron .. a few tips if you can heat the part to around 400 deg. the wled with nickle rod or nickel mig wire if u can it expensive .. the peen the area with hammer lightly tapping on the area that relieves stress in the weld, then slowly cool the part if u can by burying in a container with sand .👍🇺🇲 love the fact you tried your hand at cast iron while being a new welder😁👍 great video.
For a second I thought this guy is going to beat this pump into pieces.
And use left hand drill bits. You often get lucky and the stuck bolt comes out. As for the casting cleanup I would have stopped at the grinder. The sander took all the sand mold texture off diminishing the cast iron look. Also if you preheat the casting to 400f the weld will attach better. Brazing would have been better than mig. The mig made hard spots which is why the tap sqweeked and faught you. Enjoyable vid. Post more random stuff!
Need to use a 6011 or 6013 rod for welding cast iron, or the MIG equivalent. Don't know what your setup is like.
Nice video. Remember, patience is a virtue.
Thanks for sharing your work with everyone. You can weld cast iron, better to use a rod than a mig. if you heat the entire casting, cut some grooves to fill in, weld it, then let the casting cool down real slow. it will turn out great. I have done it many times very successfully. How did you find the leather gaskets to fit? I do wish you would have used old style bolts to put it back together with. Using modern hex nuts and bolts and set screws seem to take away the antique charm. Overall, great job. I look forward to seeing more projects.
I would love to see a video solving just that problem (it is the 2nd most difficult repair). The leather gaskets fit very nicely, but are easier if soaked so that there is a little bit of flex so they do not mar, tear or gash. Hear, Hear, on using the original style hardware. I cringe every time I see a restoration using hex, modern hardware. To take the time to do such an extensive and labor intensive task, then to put modern hardware on, no.
If I had your expertise I would choose to remove the imperfections. Nice work! Glad that I found your channel.
Cast iron should be brazed not welded. Cast iron becomes very hard in the welded area. You will also find it easier to thread. Also you should back off threading tap 1/4 turn for every 1/2 to 3/4 turn of threading in. Other than that, a good restoration job.
Excellent work. 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Lovely colors. 👌😁👌😁👌😁👌
Very nice Restoration
Muy bien .
Excelente trabajo.
Árduo , pero exitoso.
Felicitaciones , maestro.
Muy profesional lo que usted hace.
Saludos desde Chile , Sud América.
Nice pump and good job. Answering question: it was quite rough casting , I would remove the most obvious defects but not use filler & smooth everything, especially to paint it later by brush.
I think use of filler & sanding is a good practice, but not if you're going to use a hammer finish paint. Overall, I didn't think this was a great job. But so what? A lot of people are wasting a lot of time on this foolishness, which now includes me since I watched most of this.
ELIASPETERI ANUY LIIKOTILA
Well done sir, the cleanup was nicely done and the function test at the end was especially good touch. Nicely done, sir. Very nicely done.
Awesome. I always wanted to see inside one of those. I thought I was a century or two late..
Ahhh Not a century I used to use one of those on a smallholding as a kid
Thanks for the video! I love the ball trick!
When it comes to restorations I really enjoy the metal polished its so beautiful but some things just have to be painted, lol
Very nice work. I have a hand pump I bought new in 1999 (can you guess why? HA!) and I'm currently replacing the cup leather and removing rust on other internal parts. I have a question . . . isn't the lower leather valve supposed to have a weight on it ... bolted on through the hole in the middle of the leather? Yours obviously worked without it during your bucket test, but I wonder if it not being there when you're trying to pull water up from 20 ft. or so will cause a problem. Also, did you coat the inside of the cylinder with anything to aid in rust protection? Again . . . very nice work! Thanks.
I would not have worried about the casting marks, I might have sanded a couple of really bad ones. You do nice work, I would have been really pissed if I had snapped off the ears. All the best, Edgar
Good Restoration
The manufacturer's intention is always render the best product and the most good looking they can deliver. Usually the beautifying process are time consuming and thus expensive and if they hold the monopoly of the production of that good they care less the looks. I believe that a restoration offer the opportunity to present the objects in their best they were conceived. But the line stops when we are talking of archaelogical artifacts they should be cleaned and preserved as they were found.
I prefer it when the casting marks are filled in and sanded. It makes it look better when applying spray paint/powder coating. But everyone is different. Great work btw!!! :-)
Honestly 97% of theses comments are amazing congratulating you on ur great good but the 3% of the ungrateful watcher just ruining the comment section its just hurts to read some of theses.
I think that if it is a unique or difficult to obtain piece, a restorer should try to leave it as close as possible to the original. But if it is a common artifact, of which there may be thousands around the world, each one should leave it as it makes him happiest. Greetings from the Patagonia.
In my field of work which is aviation restoration, the FAA book 4313 states when making repairs they should be as good as new if not better, always make it better. Removing flash and casting flaws makes it better.
I agree with removing the casting mold seams, don't like the use of the filler though. Just my opinion. Overall, very nicely done.
Could the leather seals be replaced with rubber? One would think rubber would last longer, but maybe there is some other reason, other than originality, for sticking with the leather.
My opinion which isn't worth the paper it's written on is that if the item being restored is a collectible and being restored for that reason, casting defects should be left in tact. If it is being restored for functionality / use then of course they should be removed. The only reason I give my opinion on this is because you asked.
I say remove the casting marks but keep the original hardware (bolts, nuts). Also, if you're going to spend all that time prepping the pieces, consider buying a powder coater or airbrush-- the spray cans and brushes essentially "undo" all that time you just spent prepping.
If you are honestly wanting to get in to welding, i would suggest you start with stick. Stick welding is hard, but you learn how to control your arc length, and how far the electrode is from your work piece. Its also cheaper, i don't know what corner of the world you are in, but you technically can weld with car batteries if you use stick
I’m amazed you can still get parts for this
These pumps are everywhere on eBay that’s why 😊
This was a great item. I wish it was done by a restorer who was a little bit more fit than this person. On the other hand, now I know why the water at Grandpa's place tastes like rustoleum.
Suggest you watch 'My Mechanics' and see how restoration is really done.
For cleaning the bore a cylinder hone would be very good for the part.
Thanks to you
The coloured circles was a nice touch!
Friend, don't you have wd 40 ??
You do a great job of cleaning up on projects, but it bothers me when you use crescent wrenches a lot.
great restoration brings back some old memories I grew up on a farm :) I enjoyed the video
LOL LOL I was saying the same thing took me back, great job
I think you went a little overboard with the filler there :D I really like surface structure that cast iron has though.
I agree Frank. It's a hand pump. It's supposed to have sings and signs of age.
Ralph Wiggins I think the same, I expect to see mottling on cast iron... it’s one of the best ways of identifying it, and possibly running the risk of it being thought a reproduction rather than an original... that being said, I’m impressed with his work, and I’m certainly not knocking his efforts! His vids are always impressive!
I agree with you both. If you're restoring it, restore it to how the factory would've shipped it. That said, it looks good.
@@Michigan_Tactical Yeah ... I own a similar hand pump myself, and ofc I ground off all the casting marks (because these are produced cheap a.f. ... quality is as you'd expect for 30€ for a cast part) ... but the actual surface finish (i.e. slight pitting from the casting process) just has to stay because it's part of the thing.
Patriot redneck why? Nothing wrong with making it look better then it would have. Basically taking advantage of modern equipment/consumables. He bogs most stuff he does. No real reason not to, and a few reasons too do it.
Very good Restoration.
No pitcher pump was hurt during the making of this video.😳
A thing of beauty is a joy for ever. if you have the time and the means why not make something that is functional and nice to look at.
Don't get mad, but watching this professionally barbaric murder was also bad .... 😣
Hitting your wrench with a hammer is abusive. Use lubricant and torch. Respect what you are restoring.
Now I know how to paint the gear positions on my Ford 8N!
Молодец! Все хорошо сделал! Много труда вложил. Еще бы ВСЕ винты, болты, гайки, шайбы поворонил бы - не было бы этого блеска новодела, на благородной старине. Ну и манжету, наверно, чем-то надо смазать ....
Felicidades muy buena Restauración... Mejor que NUEVO. 😷👍🏆🥇👋👌 Saludos cordiales desde Barcelona Catalonia.
I prefer removing the defects. I look at it as finishing the restoration to the level that would have been done if only 1 had ever been made.
That's a great way to look at it.
Your welding looks way better than mine, but I am a woodworker so there is that. You do great work though.
for a second I was like tomato sauce?!!!!!! lol
Use silicon bronze wire on the mig with pure argon cover gas. You can get 2# spool in .035 or .030 works like butter on broken casting. Stitch weld little at a time release the stress by pinging wit hammer lightly.
You could skipped the repair and broken ear if you had backed out a little with the tap. My grandpa told me work smarter not harder you don't know your own strength. Back out a quarter turn every few turns so I don't have come behind you fixing broken ears all day long. Backing out help clear the threads. Same with removing stuck nuts.
Cool trick to highlight the letters.
Casting defects: Do you like it left original? What would you do?
It would depend on if the "defects" are something that might compromise the life/function of object, or would it extend the wear/function. For instance, the pitting would be a place where rust could start all over again, so I'd fix it by adding, not removing. However, removing flashing and casting splatter is just an excuse to improve something.
I wouldn't have used the JB Weld for something intended to use around potable water. No rationale for that, I just wouldn't. Likewise I wouldn't have spray painted something to use with potable water. You might think, or say, "well, it's intended for display only," but the next person might think "why not, I'll try it!" and the next thing you know, they are drinking paint chips, because they didn't know any better. You can warn them not to, but fools are so ingenious, that's why it's so darn hard to make something fool proof.