When exporting model as a mesh from Fusion you have to adjust refinement options in "save as mesh" window to get smooth transitions on curved surfaces.
Your problems with splitting the parts are usually related to the draft angle of the parts. You need to design your 3d parts to have some small angle at the side walls. If you do it they will disconnect much easier, than when you do straight walls. Now that you have them straight you had a hard time when removing it even from the wax, since when you pulling it you create the vacuum behind it. And if the walls were tilted at least 1-2 degrees it would split like a charm, because the air would have the space to come through.
You are wrong, 1.He showed us the picture in the thumbnail, of his desein. 2. He said how to make a GAINT led not a normal led. 3. Your just some stupid guy/girl who stumbles across such inocent videos like this and say its click bait for no reason.
i was expecting him to actually make one as well. still a good video tho, and maybe it'll inspire someone into actually doing it. hopefully be a bit safer about it too 🤣
Shame,you dont pay to watch this channel,and you can choose to skip...so stop winning like a little biatch and make your own then.....And if you think of saying :"Why so angry?" Dont bother cause thats soo old already
You'll have to get a handle on silicone molds! Way easier for this type of molding. Easier release, and reusable. Also, export your file as a step file so that there are no 'sides' like a mesh model. Results look great so far though!
Use silicon for the mold. Cut into the silicone with a scalpel to release, but only part way down each side. The cut faces will fit back together perfectly. Make a two piece outer support for the mold using fibre glass. The two halves can be clamped around the mold to keep it all together for casting. Use a mold release agent.
For those interested, a little more depth on how LEDs work: It's not really that the semiconductor jiggles about to release light; rather it's the position and size of a gap in the range of possible energy states of the electrons in the material that is the defining feature of semiconductors. Conducting electrons fall into bound states in the lattice, giving off the energy lost as light. The size of the band gap determines the wavelength (colour) of the emitted light. The reason the device has to be a diode is that its poles need to be made up of what we call carrier-selective materials: one side is electron-rich (n-doped), which makes it easier for electrons to move about, while the other is electron-deficient (hole-rich, p-doped), which makes it easy for electron vacancies (holes) to move. Where these two sides meet, electrons move from the n side to the p side, giving off light in the process, until a voltage is built up that is high enough to prevent more movement. When an _external_ voltage is applied across the device in the "forward" direction (opposite to the internal voltage), this keeps supplying electrons to the n side and extracting them from the p side, thus preventing the internal voltage from fully building up, and thereby allowing more and more electrons to move across the junction, falling from the conduction band into the valence band and giving off light. Some types of LEDs have a thin layer of intrinsic (neither p nor n) semiconductor in the middle that acts as a quantum well to trap electrons and holes and encourage recombination in that layer. In this case, the band gap, and thus, the colour, is ultimately determined by the material of the intrinsic layer and its thickness.
The LED 3D file came out low-poly because the 3D file that was exported from Fusion 360 was also low-poly; it was shaded smooth to make it appear as though it had a higher level of detail. It will become more apparent when you import the 3D file into the slicer. The 3D LED file was also not an "optimized" 3D file, meaning there were some errors within it. I'm also not a chemist, but it seems as though the resins are too chemically similar and bond together, so you would need to add more release agent, use a coating on the 3D print, create a mold like you did in the video, or see if there's an alternative 3D resin that would be suited for casting. Awesome video, and the resourcefulness is incredible!
When exporting from F360 as a mesh you have to higher the polygon count for better quality mesh export. I don't know how resin slicers work, but most slicers for FDM are able to handle step files also and with the step format you don't have any polygons. For a reusable mold you could use 2K silicon 😉
I do a lot of curvy stuff and I like to specify 360 or 720 for my loft detail, but sometimes need to go even higher depending on the curves. Also the splines control the detail depending on how many points you assign to them. The final meshes have polys about 1mm squared which is easily sanded by hand.
If you wanna go for that 100w LED, you might wanna try distilled water cooling. You'll have a very small heat exchanger underneath the LED embedded in the epoxy, while the pipes will be led's terminals at the same time. The cooling/pumping of the fluid can be done in the base of the lamp for flawless esthetics...
@@steve-paul given that a 100w led throws about 15w heat, the system should be able to withstand 20w of heat. That amount of heat is more likely to be evacuated through a convection heat exchanger at the bottom using one small aquarium pump (cheap and effective). IMO it can't be done w/o the pump.
@@revmsj afaik heat pipes are common for short distance (some centimeters, not meters; I guess one could calculate ΔT with online tools). The Peltier elements (the rated ones, not the Alistuff things) come with efficiency/temperature and temperature/current charts. The rest is pure math to describe minimum power supply ratings 😉.
Easy "In and Out" with your lathe with a polish. Scaring or taking the risk of cracking your epoxy was hard to watch. Love your content. ❤ Back country solutions! We need more people like this!!!
your mold release issue is most likely that the spray is just way too thin a surface because both resins are essentially the same material (just with a different "cure starter"), so they'll just LOVE to attach to each other. for a big part like this a negative mold of a completely different material (like your wax or some silicone or such) is pretty much the only safe option.
@@JohnDoew-hz8qt just dont pour the same material the mold is made of into it (especially when the "material" is "bunch of chemistry just waiting for any excuse to weld those together on a submolecular scale") , problem solved. :P also the usual issues of "measure once cut twice" still apply, eg having *any* design process going into your mold (draft angles, etc) tends to help a lot ;)
Changing the voltage for an LED usually doesn't change the colour of light it emits, except if you go too far above its rated energy. In that case it will first go extremely bright, then light-blue, yellow, brown and then nothing.
There are are LEDs that are made specifically for color change based on current and voltage. They are just not common as the cost is quite high compared to a multi pin rgb
@@Protocol-X They are so rare that I've never seen such. But it's probably not technically hard to implement, just put multiple LEDs in one plastic bit and a little chip that lights up a different one of the LED crystals depending on the voltage.
Hey Rulof, Mistakes are more important to discovery and learning than opening the internet or a book and having the answer. You are a fantastic teacher. I am a professor and I see a genius in you. Can you make a video about a flat LED about the same size? I make signs and use the strips. They look terrible. One surface mount light in the center would be better. Thanks
Pretty interesting that regular diodes emit infrared light like an LED, but did you know that solar panels are also LEDs? If you put enough voltage across them they will light up (but not well) also an LED will generate a little power when a bright enough light hits it!
Solar panels also emit infrared light when a voltage is applied. This is why your inverters are diode protected so you don’t radiate off your electricity in IR at night after the sun goes down.
LED's differ greatly in comparison to regular rectifier diode. LED's can handle little currents and voltage drop for LED's is much higher and it is impossible to replace regular diode with led unless minuscule currents are flowing. Also power dissipation in rectifiers is related to their voltage drop and according to ohms law when current flows through it generates about 0,7V times current of power in watts. I doubt that heat generation is related to IR light emission but at this time i dont have such articles to argue
2:20 Model was printed with faceting visible because it was done like that, Even though it looks smooth in 3D app You can clearly see the the polygonal walls on the edges and - even better - on the printer screen, where it shows mesh preview without 'normal smoothing'. In order to get smooth printing You have to smooth the mesh geometry.
Now here is man who's truly passionate about trying to get into this game. You hafta be heartless, elitist, or a 13 year old to hate anyone with this much earnestness. Rulof, that was wonderful. You did a great job. Keep it up! Liked and sub'd. Parents: you have just watched an episode of Mr. Wizard, if he had to buy his own materials and work from first principles on everything. Why are you copasetic with school teachers having to do the same thing?
Grande ! Speriamo che l’algoritmo giri bene. Qualora non volessi impazzirti con l’inglese oltretutto esistono tantissime AI che ti creano in pochi minuti la voce in inglese per tutta la durata del video. Rendendo tutto super professionale :) Big up Rulof 🔝
I didn't know you made a switch of channel ! I just realized that I never got notified of the new videos coming out from your last channel … always love what you made and still do !
Did you know conventional diodes, solar cells, and even PN junctions inside transistors, also emit (infrared) light when forward biased? It's just that they really suck at it.
Thanks for the video. Easily got our thumbs up! Enjoyed watching it with our kids and hoping these types of videos will inspire them to be craftsman of some sort instead of them wasting their life with video games and shallow tv shows
Super video, thank you! You can make a positive master with 3D printing and then make a silicone elastomer mould rather like your wax mould. But you can use a silicone mould many times. If you can cast epoxy in your shop, you can cast silicone. You need to build a wooden box for the silicone mould you can screw together and unscrew to take apart, to keep the mould rigid while casting, and cut wavy lines through the silicone to split it into several sections for releasing. It’s a good process for batch production 😊
You need a lot More mould release, or get a silicone based spray lubricant, worked amazing for epoxy releasing. The proper way of doing it would be to print a positive then make a negative in silicone mould then cast the resin in the silicone mould. It’s telhmpreture resistant.
Great work and craftsmanship, awesome idea for a lamp and all that. Now, I hope that that thing lights up as a 100w traditional bulb would instead of plainly consume 100w, that would be counterintuitive to the purpose of LED tech I guess. Well done. Good luck.
The resin slicer just lights up the pixels it's given, so it's not the slicing process. I can see the facets in the faces in your exported file. I don't know how Fusion 360's export works, but I know in Rhino 3d I can specify the resolution of the exported file, which then impacts the faces on the STL model. You can likely do the same in 360.
U can use the 3d printed version as a positive instead of a negative like u did, make the mould out of silicone rubber from the positive with a little wax and I'm sure It's gonna work perfectly for many many casts
Interesting project. Based on the issues, I would suggest just making a silicone mold. And gilt some mold selease spray or powder. Silicone is very cheap there days and would also allow you to add a way to hold the internals easier. Your first approach was better, though, since you are not using a pressure chamber, the internals should be placed before adding resin to prevent introducing air bubbles from submerging the parts. The only thing I did not like "just cosmetic purposes" is the led you added. I probably would have used a cob led strip and lined it on the tathode and anode edge for a more realistic look and feel, but maybe then it would look to plain for use as a lamp. Either way, it's still a nice video, thanks.
The reason of polygun shape of your printed part is your STL export settings And for the mold you just need to use some silicone it would be very easy to
Mold release... Elmers School Glue (PVA) and Johnson Paste wax. Wax first then apply PVA, it does not hurt to have a little draft on your plug in fact it is almost required 1 degree is enough.
Hi Rulof, your 3D model needs more edge loops so that the surface can be smooth when you export the 3D model to an external application. Hope this is helpful.
To do this properly you need to make a silicone mould from your 3d printed plug which will make it a lot easier to de-mould the finished part and you will be able to re-use the silicone mould multiple times.
Bro I want to give a suggestion for the mould to use a silicon mould it can be used again and again so many times and you can make them in any shape. 👍 Thanks
Your SL file has the faces clearly visible in your fusion creation, it was not a fluke it was a feature of your design as you have not defined the joints to be circular.
hey Rulof, new sub, if you would like to make a reuseable mold, you will need to use proper mold release agents. at our shop after the mold is completed, then comes the preparation, the wax we use is Partall paste #2 made by Rexco, made in the USA. this paste is applied like you're waxing your car, I use my fingers to layout the wax very thin and uniformly, you can use a cloth rag or paper towel to remove the wax immediately after applying it, rub and buff to get it shining, then do this again 2 more times, at this point the mold is seasoned. last part, we use a PVA as the mold release the one we use is Part #67 PVA green made by Finish Kane, I don't know if this comes in small quantities, it may only come in one US gallon containers. another option is a mold release that comes in a spray can, should work. the first mold you made would have worked out perfectly, but needed the wax and a mold release. if you would like any additional info message me back. mike ps yeah I would definitely buy one, it would make a cool room light!!!
You have to use tacky silicone spray-on mold release. The firm tacky kind that doesn't run down the sides of the mold soon after you spray it in place. Once the casting is done it should pull out, a removable section at the closed end of the mold would help to keep it from forming a vacuum and holding it stuck in place, Silicone that sticks to the product and mold can be wiped off with alcohol, which devolves the silicone,
Nice - but leds are not perfectly circular - there is an iconic 'flat' side - you can see it @7:45 - that shows the negative(cathode) side. Thanks for the idea of using fridge parts as a vacuum chamber! Must look into that.
You need to adjust stepping/subdivision count to 36 or so, there's no round objects in computer 3d graphics, it will be always made out of bezier curves or triangles.
Привет, проблема полигональности модели возникает на этапе сохранения из cad программы. Чтобы этого избежать нужно либо в настройках cad, либо на моменте сохранения найти такой параметр как "качество" или "количество полигонов" или что-то вроде того и понял его до необходимого уровня.
Please make it a habit to wear proper gloves whenever you are working with uncured UV resin. This stuff is really nasty and will leave you with really bad issues over time if you dont treat it with respect. You should also be in a very well ventilated area and using a mask.
And the sanding step without a charbon mask … yikes you gonna face serious issues in a couple of decades if you don’t protect your lungs from resin dust !
They're not being buzzkills. If anything they're understating the problem. You can end up with allergies towards epoxies and resins that run the gamut from having the skin peel off your eyelids to anaphylactic shock just from being in an area with dust or curing materials that haven't been thoroughly cleaned. People decorating tumbler mugs as a hobby have learned this to their sorrow when their favorite hobby has put them in the hospital and made it such that they can't resume even with a laminar flow hood and respirator mask. The dust in your lungs causes irritation and fibroid growth which can become cancerous.
When exporting model as a mesh from Fusion you have to adjust refinement options in "save as mesh" window to get smooth transitions on curved surfaces.
or just use obj format..most slicers support it
@@bsod41443Mf is even better than that.
I wonder how he exported it. I thought save as mesh was the only way
You'd think a resin printer would be able to just use a collection of image files or something like a GIF file but lossless
Obj - 2000 faces
Stl - 30000 faces
Step - 130000faces
Use .step
I don't know much about F360 but generally export as 3MF instead of STL, and in Cura you may also try ARC welder plugin.
Your problems with splitting the parts are usually related to the draft angle of the parts. You need to design your 3d parts to have some small angle at the side walls. If you do it they will disconnect much easier, than when you do straight walls. Now that you have them straight you had a hard time when removing it even from the wax, since when you pulling it you create the vacuum behind it. And if the walls were tilted at least 1-2 degrees it would split like a charm, because the air would have the space to come through.
I really enjoy the confidence of Italians, French, Spaniards and Portugues speaking broken English with so much confidence.
You didn't make a giant LED. You made a housing for a commercially-available LED. Click-bait titles are not appreciated, my friend.
You are wrong,
1.He showed us the picture in the thumbnail, of his desein.
2. He said how to make a GAINT led not a normal led.
3. Your just some stupid guy/girl who stumbles across such inocent videos like this and say its click bait for no reason.
i was expecting him to actually make one as well. still a good video tho, and maybe it'll inspire someone into actually doing it. hopefully be a bit safer about it too 🤣
this!
expected by the title, that he would "make" a huge led model, which would work. but this is just a resin housing for a flashlight
Shame,you dont pay to watch this channel,and you can choose to skip...so stop winning like a little biatch and make your own then.....And if you think of saying :"Why so angry?" Dont bother cause thats soo old already
WELL AT LEAST IT LOOKS LIKE ONE
So cool. The second attempt was perfect. The LED resin was completely clear and the light was beautiful. Thanks for sharing this.
You'll have to get a handle on silicone molds! Way easier for this type of molding. Easier release, and reusable. Also, export your file as a step file so that there are no 'sides' like a mesh model.
Results look great so far though!
Use silicon for the mold. Cut into the silicone with a scalpel to release, but only part way down each side. The cut faces will fit back together perfectly.
Make a two piece outer support for the mold using fibre glass. The two halves can be clamped around the mold to keep it all together for casting.
Use a mold release agent.
maybe you meant "silicone", silicon is the thing in your cpu
For those interested, a little more depth on how LEDs work: It's not really that the semiconductor jiggles about to release light; rather it's the position and size of a gap in the range of possible energy states of the electrons in the material that is the defining feature of semiconductors. Conducting electrons fall into bound states in the lattice, giving off the energy lost as light. The size of the band gap determines the wavelength (colour) of the emitted light. The reason the device has to be a diode is that its poles need to be made up of what we call carrier-selective materials: one side is electron-rich (n-doped), which makes it easier for electrons to move about, while the other is electron-deficient (hole-rich, p-doped), which makes it easy for electron vacancies (holes) to move. Where these two sides meet, electrons move from the n side to the p side, giving off light in the process, until a voltage is built up that is high enough to prevent more movement. When an _external_ voltage is applied across the device in the "forward" direction (opposite to the internal voltage), this keeps supplying electrons to the n side and extracting them from the p side, thus preventing the internal voltage from fully building up, and thereby allowing more and more electrons to move across the junction, falling from the conduction band into the valence band and giving off light. Some types of LEDs have a thin layer of intrinsic (neither p nor n) semiconductor in the middle that acts as a quantum well to trap electrons and holes and encourage recombination in that layer. In this case, the band gap, and thus, the colour, is ultimately determined by the material of the intrinsic layer and its thickness.
Thanks. This was the answer I was looking for (but not find in the vid) 👍
The LED 3D file came out low-poly because the 3D file that was exported from Fusion 360 was also low-poly; it was shaded smooth to make it appear as though it had a higher level of detail. It will become more apparent when you import the 3D file into the slicer. The 3D LED file was also not an "optimized" 3D file, meaning there were some errors within it. I'm also not a chemist, but it seems as though the resins are too chemically similar and bond together, so you would need to add more release agent, use a coating on the 3D print, create a mold like you did in the video, or see if there's an alternative 3D resin that would be suited for casting. Awesome video, and the resourcefulness is incredible!
Might also help to print the mold in two halves.
By the way if you model something in OpenSCAD you can control the amount of facets in circles.
When exporting from F360 as a mesh you have to higher the polygon count for better quality mesh export. I don't know how resin slicers work, but most slicers for FDM are able to handle step files also and with the step format you don't have any polygons.
For a reusable mold you could use 2K silicon 😉
😢😢😊😊😅😅😮😮😮🎉🎉😂😂❤❤
I do a lot of curvy stuff and I like to specify 360 or 720 for my loft detail, but sometimes need to go even higher depending on the curves. Also the splines control the detail depending on how many points you assign to them. The final meshes have polys about 1mm squared which is easily sanded by hand.
Instead of wax you could use silicon resin. Then you can reuse it and it will be much easier to remove.
I was thinking the same
If you wanna go for that 100w LED, you might wanna try distilled water cooling. You'll have a very small heat exchanger underneath the LED embedded in the epoxy, while the pipes will be led's terminals at the same time. The cooling/pumping of the fluid can be done in the base of the lamp for flawless esthetics...
Probably a good idea... a 100 watt LED will burn the resin easily if it's not cooled enough.
I was thinking he could use a water block and use copper pipes with it.
@@steve-paul given that a 100w led throws about 15w heat, the system should be able to withstand 20w of heat. That amount of heat is more likely to be evacuated through a convection heat exchanger at the bottom using one small aquarium pump (cheap and effective). IMO it can't be done w/o the pump.
Perhaps a double layer peltier cooler (TEC) with a heatsink or heat tubes if you want to remotely locate the heat sink.
@@revmsj afaik heat pipes are common for short distance (some centimeters, not meters; I guess one could calculate ΔT with online tools). The Peltier elements (the rated ones, not the Alistuff things) come with efficiency/temperature and temperature/current charts. The rest is pure math to describe minimum power supply ratings 😉.
Easy "In and Out" with your lathe with a polish. Scaring or taking the risk of cracking your epoxy was hard to watch. Love your content. ❤ Back country solutions! We need more people like this!!!
Your English is improving so muchhhh! Great project and love seeing your videos pop up in my feed
What you printed looks exactly like the 3d model you showed on the screen, so the problem is clearly with the render.
your mold release issue is most likely that the spray is just way too thin a surface because both resins are essentially the same material (just with a different "cure starter"), so they'll just LOVE to attach to each other. for a big part like this a negative mold of a completely different material (like your wax or some silicone or such) is pretty much the only safe option.
He should have used a PVC rubber then the mold would have been reuseable.
silicon spray that will cure in air , is better solution, I guess
@@JohnDoew-hz8qt just dont pour the same material the mold is made of into it (especially when the "material" is "bunch of chemistry just waiting for any excuse to weld those together on a submolecular scale") , problem solved. :P
also the usual issues of "measure once cut twice" still apply, eg having *any* design process going into your mold (draft angles, etc) tends to help a lot ;)
Dude! You have one of the coolest intros on TH-cam
As a technician i love this idea. Maybe you find the time to make a video how you made your vacuum chamber
Is it in eletrica
you can use the electrodes as metal pipe to flow water to cool the LED inside resin blocks.
Changing the voltage for an LED usually doesn't change the colour of light it emits, except if you go too far above its rated energy. In that case it will first go extremely bright, then light-blue, yellow, brown and then nothing.
There are are LEDs that are made specifically for color change based on current and voltage. They are just not common as the cost is quite high compared to a multi pin rgb
@@Protocol-X
They are so rare that I've never seen such. But it's probably not technically hard to implement, just put multiple LEDs in one plastic bit and a little chip that lights up a different one of the LED crystals depending on the voltage.
Hey Rulof, Mistakes are more important to discovery and learning than opening the internet or a book and having the answer. You are a fantastic teacher. I am a professor and I see a genius in you.
Can you make a video about a flat LED about the same size? I make signs and use the strips. They look terrible. One surface mount light in the center would be better. Thanks
Pretty interesting that regular diodes emit infrared light like an LED, but did you know that solar panels are also LEDs? If you put enough voltage across them they will light up (but not well) also an LED will generate a little power when a bright enough light hits it!
Solar panels also emit infrared light when a voltage is applied. This is why your inverters are diode protected so you don’t radiate off your electricity in IR at night after the sun goes down.
Also high power can transistors will produce some power if you delid them and shine light into their dye.
If you put enough voltage across ANYTHING, it will light up! (At least for a time; though the time might be only slightly greater than 0.)
LED's differ greatly in comparison to regular rectifier diode. LED's can handle little currents and voltage drop for LED's is much higher and it is impossible to replace regular diode with led unless minuscule currents are flowing. Also power dissipation in rectifiers is related to their voltage drop and according to ohms law when current flows through it generates about 0,7V times current of power in watts. I doubt that heat generation is related to IR light emission but at this time i dont have such articles to argue
Yeah he was spewing a lot of bullshit
2:20 Model was printed with faceting visible because it was done like that, Even though it looks smooth in 3D app You can clearly see the the polygonal walls on the edges and - even better - on the printer screen, where it shows mesh preview without 'normal smoothing'. In order to get smooth printing You have to smooth the mesh geometry.
It's so smooth and polished, you can stick it in your ... kitchen. Lol! Super cool idea! I want one.
can you create big semi conductor real L.E.D inside this?
Now here is man who's truly passionate about trying to get into this game. You hafta be heartless, elitist, or a 13 year old to hate anyone with this much earnestness.
Rulof, that was wonderful. You did a great job. Keep it up! Liked and sub'd.
Parents: you have just watched an episode of Mr. Wizard, if he had to buy his own materials and work from first principles on everything. Why are you copasetic with school teachers having to do the same thing?
For decades no one told us that this is possible. But you did..👍👍👍👍👍👍
Grande ! Speriamo che l’algoritmo giri bene. Qualora non volessi impazzirti con l’inglese oltretutto esistono tantissime AI che ti creano in pochi minuti la voce in inglese per tutta la durata del video. Rendendo tutto super professionale :) Big up Rulof 🔝
One thing I have seen done when doing epoxy pours is to pour it down a glass rod into the mold to prevent bubbles getting picked up during the pour.
This is AWESOME! time to invest in a silicone mold!
I didn't know you made a switch of channel ! I just realized that I never got notified of the new videos coming out from your last channel … always love what you made and still do !
This is amazing. I am definitely going to incorporate this into my next lighting design project.
YOU SHOULD MAKE A LARGE STREO LED VU METER BAR LIKE ON STEROS THAT MOVE WITH SOUND
Did you know conventional diodes, solar cells, and even PN junctions inside transistors, also emit (infrared) light when forward biased? It's just that they really suck at it.
Thanks for the video. Easily got our thumbs up! Enjoyed watching it with our kids and hoping these types of videos will inspire them to be craftsman of some sort instead of them wasting their life with video games and shallow tv shows
I didn't know Rulof had a new TH-cam channel till i found this video while looking for giant LED's.
Man liked the project and the mold looked after fixed like a cool glass for water very nice indeed👍
Incredible channel! Glad to find you my friend! Watching to the end ;)
Is very very nice video
Just ask some pepol say inside LCD have silver is this true or not
Thank y
Super video, thank you! You can make a positive master with 3D printing and then make a silicone elastomer mould rather like your wax mould. But you can use a silicone mould many times. If you can cast epoxy in your shop, you can cast silicone. You need to build a wooden box for the silicone mould you can screw together and unscrew to take apart, to keep the mould rigid while casting, and cut wavy lines through the silicone to split it into several sections for releasing. It’s a good process for batch production 😊
Che figata, hai anche un buon inglese, ti alleni! Bravo!
to remove air bubbles from resin, just use a blow torch.
That works very well for surface bubbles, but vacuuming is best for air distributed throughout the resin.
You need a lot More mould release, or get a silicone based spray lubricant, worked amazing for epoxy releasing.
The proper way of doing it would be to print a positive then make a negative in silicone mould then cast the resin in the silicone mould. It’s telhmpreture resistant.
How much heath does the led produce? because epoxie is a bit thermal insulator.
Awesome finished product! Now you need to make your own giant laser pointer using blue LD.
Cool although you definitely need to make a silicone mold that weight comes off and it's reusable and maybe some different mold release spray.
1. adjust refinement options in "save as mesh" in fusion to make your prints smooth circles.
2. Use silicone molds, resin won't stick to it.
NICE PROJECT MAN, CONGRATULATIONS
😂 Your accent is really soothing till the end when you swing your "KITCHEN" implement about giggling manically stroking its end....
the best TH-cam suggestion ❤
do you have a video on how to make a vacuum pump out of a refrigerator compressor?
Это вы использовали большой транзистор в качестве светодиода??
Great work and craftsmanship, awesome idea for a lamp and all that.
Now, I hope that that thing lights up as a 100w traditional bulb would instead of plainly consume 100w, that would be counterintuitive to the purpose of LED tech I guess.
Well done.
Good luck.
I got disappointed when you used led for led instead of making a diy led 😢😢😢❤❤❤❤❤
Cant wait for you to make it big man. Best wishes from Greece.
Excellent videos ! 👍
Can't wait to see the flashlight you make with it. 😮
That was a pretty cool project. We learn from our mistakes!
This was awesome. I want to create a laser diode of that size. Is this posible?
The resin slicer just lights up the pixels it's given, so it's not the slicing process. I can see the facets in the faces in your exported file. I don't know how Fusion 360's export works, but I know in Rhino 3d I can specify the resolution of the exported file, which then impacts the faces on the STL model. You can likely do the same in 360.
U can use the 3d printed version as a positive instead of a negative like u did, make the mould out of silicone rubber from the positive with a little wax and I'm sure It's gonna work perfectly for many many casts
If your slicer supports STEP files, give them a try. They shoud be completly lossless
Just wondering, did you you include draft angles in your design for the LED mold?
Interesting project. Based on the issues, I would suggest just making a silicone mold. And gilt some mold selease spray or powder. Silicone is very cheap there days and would also allow you to add a way to hold the internals easier. Your first approach was better, though, since you are not using a pressure chamber, the internals should be placed before adding resin to prevent introducing air bubbles from submerging the parts. The only thing I did not like "just cosmetic purposes" is the led you added. I probably would have used a cob led strip and lined it on the tathode and anode edge for a more realistic look and feel, but maybe then it would look to plain for use as a lamp. Either way, it's still a nice video, thanks.
Thank you for posting this video. You have a new subscriber. Keep up the great work 🎉.
really cool video, it came out really well.
The reason of polygun shape of your printed part is your STL export settings
And for the mold you just need to use some silicone it would be very easy to
Mold release... Elmers School Glue (PVA) and Johnson Paste wax. Wax first then apply PVA, it does not hurt to have a little draft on your plug in fact it is almost required 1 degree is enough.
i would advise making a silicon mould, this is soft and you can use multiple times
Great Result made by a sympathic man!
Use ARC Welder Addon which will change the G0/G1 lines used to make curves into actual G3/G4 arcs, giving you precise curves.
Hi Rulof, your 3D model needs more edge loops so that the surface can be smooth when you export the 3D model to an external application. Hope this is helpful.
Amazing project. great video. Best part is to learn from our mistakes. Thank you for sharing
Making a silicone mold negative will make this far faster. Also, use a release chemical to make the product sllip right out.
في كل مرة اعاهد الله ان اقاطع فيديوهاتك .... لاكن يحدث ان اشاهدها .... فاندم مرة اخرى
To do this properly you need to make a silicone mould from your 3d printed plug which will make it a lot easier to de-mould the finished part and you will be able to re-use the silicone mould multiple times.
Bro I want to give a suggestion for the mould to use a silicon mould it can be used again and again so many times and you can make them in any shape. 👍 Thanks
Your SL file has the faces clearly visible in your fusion creation, it was not a fluke it was a feature of your design as you have not defined the joints to be circular.
sanding resin should only be done with a proper respirator and/or in a well ventilated area! resin dust can be very harmfull when inhaled!
hey Rulof, new sub, if you would like to make a reuseable mold, you will need to use proper mold release agents. at our shop after the mold is completed, then comes the preparation, the wax we use is Partall paste #2 made by Rexco, made in the USA. this paste is applied like you're waxing your car, I use my fingers to layout the wax very thin and uniformly, you can use a cloth rag or paper towel to remove the wax immediately after applying it, rub and buff to get it shining, then do this again 2 more times, at this point the mold is seasoned. last part, we use a PVA as the mold release the one we use is Part #67 PVA green made by Finish Kane, I don't know if this comes in small quantities, it may only come in one US gallon containers. another option is a mold release that comes in a spray can, should work. the first mold you made would have worked out perfectly, but needed the wax and a mold release. if you would like any additional info message me back. mike
ps yeah I would definitely buy one, it would make a cool room light!!!
Great now make a matrix display 😎 I've discovered your channel and it's amazing I like the fridge compressor vacuum pump tip
9 minutes in and he finally reveals that he isn't actually making an LED.
Very Creative. I like your Jumbo Magnum LED very much. If you should ever decide to sell some of them, I would very much like to buy one.
Everybody avoiding blue light from screens and the sun
This man: 18:28
That LED is mega-awesome! Great job!
You need a two part silicon to make the mould.
Isn’t using silicone mold easier ?
I really enjoyed your video. You have a new subscriber!
So a silicone mould wouldn't be the first choice?
how much Dc volt you use in here into using the LED?
You have to use tacky silicone spray-on mold release. The firm tacky kind that doesn't run down the sides of the mold soon after you spray it in place. Once the casting is done it should pull out, a removable section at the closed end of the mold would help to keep it from forming a vacuum and holding it stuck in place, Silicone that sticks to the product and mold can be wiped off with alcohol, which devolves the silicone,
Nice - but leds are not perfectly circular - there is an iconic 'flat' side - you can see it @7:45 - that shows the negative(cathode) side. Thanks for the idea of using fridge parts as a vacuum chamber! Must look into that.
You need to adjust stepping/subdivision count to 36 or so, there's no round objects in computer 3d graphics, it will be always made out of bezier curves or triangles.
Привет, проблема полигональности модели возникает на этапе сохранения из cad программы. Чтобы этого избежать нужно либо в настройках cad, либо на моменте сохранения найти такой параметр как "качество" или "количество полигонов" или что-то вроде того и понял его до необходимого уровня.
Please make it a habit to wear proper gloves whenever you are working with uncured UV resin. This stuff is really nasty and will leave you with really bad issues over time if you dont treat it with respect. You should also be in a very well ventilated area and using a mask.
And the sanding step without a charbon mask … yikes you gonna face serious issues in a couple of decades if you don’t protect your lungs from resin dust !
@@mikek7029Resin will literally kill you some years down the line
They're not being buzzkills. If anything they're understating the problem. You can end up with allergies towards epoxies and resins that run the gamut from having the skin peel off your eyelids to anaphylactic shock just from being in an area with dust or curing materials that haven't been thoroughly cleaned. People decorating tumbler mugs as a hobby have learned this to their sorrow when their favorite hobby has put them in the hospital and made it such that they can't resume even with a laminar flow hood and respirator mask. The dust in your lungs causes irritation and fibroid growth which can become cancerous.
FACTS. 💯
That's well deserved for a clickbait channel.
Wow. Rulof is back.
Subscribing 100% because of:
"Looks like something you can stick in your........ kitchen"
😂😂😂
How many volts are you using to driving your LED ?
A flat side for mounting?