When exporting model as a mesh from Fusion you have to adjust refinement options in "save as mesh" window to get smooth transitions on curved surfaces.
Your problems with splitting the parts are usually related to the draft angle of the parts. You need to design your 3d parts to have some small angle at the side walls. If you do it they will disconnect much easier, than when you do straight walls. Now that you have them straight you had a hard time when removing it even from the wax, since when you pulling it you create the vacuum behind it. And if the walls were tilted at least 1-2 degrees it would split like a charm, because the air would have the space to come through.
You'll have to get a handle on silicone molds! Way easier for this type of molding. Easier release, and reusable. Also, export your file as a step file so that there are no 'sides' like a mesh model. Results look great so far though!
Use silicon for the mold. Cut into the silicone with a scalpel to release, but only part way down each side. The cut faces will fit back together perfectly. Make a two piece outer support for the mold using fibre glass. The two halves can be clamped around the mold to keep it all together for casting. Use a mold release agent.
The LED 3D file came out low-poly because the 3D file that was exported from Fusion 360 was also low-poly; it was shaded smooth to make it appear as though it had a higher level of detail. It will become more apparent when you import the 3D file into the slicer. The 3D LED file was also not an "optimized" 3D file, meaning there were some errors within it. I'm also not a chemist, but it seems as though the resins are too chemically similar and bond together, so you would need to add more release agent, use a coating on the 3D print, create a mold like you did in the video, or see if there's an alternative 3D resin that would be suited for casting. Awesome video, and the resourcefulness is incredible!
You are wrong, 1.He showed us the picture in the thumbnail, of his desein. 2. He said how to make a GAINT led not a normal led. 3. Your just some stupid guy/girl who stumbles across such inocent videos like this and say its click bait for no reason.
i was expecting him to actually make one as well. still a good video tho, and maybe it'll inspire someone into actually doing it. hopefully be a bit safer about it too 🤣
Shame,you dont pay to watch this channel,and you can choose to skip...so stop winning like a little biatch and make your own then.....And if you think of saying :"Why so angry?" Dont bother cause thats soo old already
When exporting from F360 as a mesh you have to higher the polygon count for better quality mesh export. I don't know how resin slicers work, but most slicers for FDM are able to handle step files also and with the step format you don't have any polygons. For a reusable mold you could use 2K silicon 😉
I do a lot of curvy stuff and I like to specify 360 or 720 for my loft detail, but sometimes need to go even higher depending on the curves. Also the splines control the detail depending on how many points you assign to them. The final meshes have polys about 1mm squared which is easily sanded by hand.
your mold release issue is most likely that the spray is just way too thin a surface because both resins are essentially the same material (just with a different "cure starter"), so they'll just LOVE to attach to each other. for a big part like this a negative mold of a completely different material (like your wax or some silicone or such) is pretty much the only safe option.
@@JohnDoew-hz8qt just dont pour the same material the mold is made of into it (especially when the "material" is "bunch of chemistry just waiting for any excuse to weld those together on a submolecular scale") , problem solved. :P also the usual issues of "measure once cut twice" still apply, eg having *any* design process going into your mold (draft angles, etc) tends to help a lot ;)
Easy "In and Out" with your lathe with a polish. Scaring or taking the risk of cracking your epoxy was hard to watch. Love your content. ❤ Back country solutions! We need more people like this!!!
For those interested, a little more depth on how LEDs work: It's not really that the semiconductor jiggles about to release light; rather it's the position and size of a gap in the range of possible energy states of the electrons in the material that is the defining feature of semiconductors. Conducting electrons fall into bound states in the lattice, giving off the energy lost as light. The size of the band gap determines the wavelength (colour) of the emitted light. The reason the device has to be a diode is that its poles need to be made up of what we call carrier-selective materials: one side is electron-rich (n-doped), which makes it easier for electrons to move about, while the other is electron-deficient (hole-rich, p-doped), which makes it easy for electron vacancies (holes) to move. Where these two sides meet, electrons move from the n side to the p side, giving off light in the process, until a voltage is built up that is high enough to prevent more movement. When an _external_ voltage is applied across the device in the "forward" direction (opposite to the internal voltage), this keeps supplying electrons to the n side and extracting them from the p side, thus preventing the internal voltage from fully building up, and thereby allowing more and more electrons to move across the junction, falling from the conduction band into the valence band and giving off light. Some types of LEDs have a thin layer of intrinsic (neither p nor n) semiconductor in the middle that acts as a quantum well to trap electrons and holes and encourage recombination in that layer. In this case, the band gap, and thus, the colour, is ultimately determined by the material of the intrinsic layer and its thickness.
Pretty interesting that regular diodes emit infrared light like an LED, but did you know that solar panels are also LEDs? If you put enough voltage across them they will light up (but not well) also an LED will generate a little power when a bright enough light hits it!
Solar panels also emit infrared light when a voltage is applied. This is why your inverters are diode protected so you don’t radiate off your electricity in IR at night after the sun goes down.
If you wanna go for that 100w LED, you might wanna try distilled water cooling. You'll have a very small heat exchanger underneath the LED embedded in the epoxy, while the pipes will be led's terminals at the same time. The cooling/pumping of the fluid can be done in the base of the lamp for flawless esthetics...
@@steve-paul given that a 100w led throws about 15w heat, the system should be able to withstand 20w of heat. That amount of heat is more likely to be evacuated through a convection heat exchanger at the bottom using one small aquarium pump (cheap and effective). IMO it can't be done w/o the pump.
@@revmsj afaik heat pipes are common for short distance (some centimeters, not meters; I guess one could calculate ΔT with online tools). The Peltier elements (the rated ones, not the Alistuff things) come with efficiency/temperature and temperature/current charts. The rest is pure math to describe minimum power supply ratings 😉.
Changing the voltage for an LED usually doesn't change the colour of light it emits, except if you go too far above its rated energy. In that case it will first go extremely bright, then light-blue, yellow, brown and then nothing.
There are are LEDs that are made specifically for color change based on current and voltage. They are just not common as the cost is quite high compared to a multi pin rgb
@@Protocol-X They are so rare that I've never seen such. But it's probably not technically hard to implement, just put multiple LEDs in one plastic bit and a little chip that lights up a different one of the LED crystals depending on the voltage.
Hey Rulof, Mistakes are more important to discovery and learning than opening the internet or a book and having the answer. You are a fantastic teacher. I am a professor and I see a genius in you. Can you make a video about a flat LED about the same size? I make signs and use the strips. They look terrible. One surface mount light in the center would be better. Thanks
I didn't know you made a switch of channel ! I just realized that I never got notified of the new videos coming out from your last channel … always love what you made and still do !
Grande ! Speriamo che l’algoritmo giri bene. Qualora non volessi impazzirti con l’inglese oltretutto esistono tantissime AI che ti creano in pochi minuti la voce in inglese per tutta la durata del video. Rendendo tutto super professionale :) Big up Rulof 🔝
Interesting project. Based on the issues, I would suggest just making a silicone mold. And gilt some mold selease spray or powder. Silicone is very cheap there days and would also allow you to add a way to hold the internals easier. Your first approach was better, though, since you are not using a pressure chamber, the internals should be placed before adding resin to prevent introducing air bubbles from submerging the parts. The only thing I did not like "just cosmetic purposes" is the led you added. I probably would have used a cob led strip and lined it on the tathode and anode edge for a more realistic look and feel, but maybe then it would look to plain for use as a lamp. Either way, it's still a nice video, thanks.
The resin slicer just lights up the pixels it's given, so it's not the slicing process. I can see the facets in the faces in your exported file. I don't know how Fusion 360's export works, but I know in Rhino 3d I can specify the resolution of the exported file, which then impacts the faces on the STL model. You can likely do the same in 360.
Now here is man who's truly passionate about trying to get into this game. You hafta be heartless, elitist, or a 13 year old to hate anyone with this much earnestness. Rulof, that was wonderful. You did a great job. Keep it up! Liked and sub'd. Parents: you have just watched an episode of Mr. Wizard, if he had to buy his own materials and work from first principles on everything. Why are you copasetic with school teachers having to do the same thing?
hey Rulof, new sub, if you would like to make a reuseable mold, you will need to use proper mold release agents. at our shop after the mold is completed, then comes the preparation, the wax we use is Partall paste #2 made by Rexco, made in the USA. this paste is applied like you're waxing your car, I use my fingers to layout the wax very thin and uniformly, you can use a cloth rag or paper towel to remove the wax immediately after applying it, rub and buff to get it shining, then do this again 2 more times, at this point the mold is seasoned. last part, we use a PVA as the mold release the one we use is Part #67 PVA green made by Finish Kane, I don't know if this comes in small quantities, it may only come in one US gallon containers. another option is a mold release that comes in a spray can, should work. the first mold you made would have worked out perfectly, but needed the wax and a mold release. if you would like any additional info message me back. mike ps yeah I would definitely buy one, it would make a cool room light!!!
Hi Rulof, your 3D model needs more edge loops so that the surface can be smooth when you export the 3D model to an external application. Hope this is helpful.
Did you know conventional diodes, solar cells, and even PN junctions inside transistors, also emit (infrared) light when forward biased? It's just that they really suck at it.
LED's differ greatly in comparison to regular rectifier diode. LED's can handle little currents and voltage drop for LED's is much higher and it is impossible to replace regular diode with led unless minuscule currents are flowing. Also power dissipation in rectifiers is related to their voltage drop and according to ohms law when current flows through it generates about 0,7V times current of power in watts. I doubt that heat generation is related to IR light emission but at this time i dont have such articles to argue
You need a lot More mould release, or get a silicone based spray lubricant, worked amazing for epoxy releasing. The proper way of doing it would be to print a positive then make a negative in silicone mould then cast the resin in the silicone mould. It’s telhmpreture resistant.
Your SL file has the faces clearly visible in your fusion creation, it was not a fluke it was a feature of your design as you have not defined the joints to be circular.
Bro I want to give a suggestion for the mould to use a silicon mould it can be used again and again so many times and you can make them in any shape. 👍 Thanks
U can use the 3d printed version as a positive instead of a negative like u did, make the mould out of silicone rubber from the positive with a little wax and I'm sure It's gonna work perfectly for many many casts
Thanks for the video. Easily got our thumbs up! Enjoyed watching it with our kids and hoping these types of videos will inspire them to be craftsman of some sort instead of them wasting their life with video games and shallow tv shows
Super video, thank you! You can make a positive master with 3D printing and then make a silicone elastomer mould rather like your wax mould. But you can use a silicone mould many times. If you can cast epoxy in your shop, you can cast silicone. You need to build a wooden box for the silicone mould you can screw together and unscrew to take apart, to keep the mould rigid while casting, and cut wavy lines through the silicone to split it into several sections for releasing. It’s a good process for batch production 😊
Great work and craftsmanship, awesome idea for a lamp and all that. Now, I hope that that thing lights up as a 100w traditional bulb would instead of plainly consume 100w, that would be counterintuitive to the purpose of LED tech I guess. Well done. Good luck.
This was a great video about how LED works! I work a lot with 3D prints, both the resin style (that you use) and FDM Style. The reason the model had jagged edges is because of the export settings, check them and set them as high as you can for your software. I am going to sound annoying for this but PLEASE when handling uncured UV resin, wear gloves and a mask, this stuff can cause some long term lung issues and can damage your skin. Really cool video otherwise! i would like to get into mold making at some point:)
Nice! I would also polish the LED, to get less stray light and a brighter collimated beam. Also I hope the resin won't get hazy or yellowish from the quite energetic blue wavelength of light.
Nice - but leds are not perfectly circular - there is an iconic 'flat' side - you can see it @7:45 - that shows the negative(cathode) side. Thanks for the idea of using fridge parts as a vacuum chamber! Must look into that.
The reason of polygun shape of your printed part is your STL export settings And for the mold you just need to use some silicone it would be very easy to
Mold release... Elmers School Glue (PVA) and Johnson Paste wax. Wax first then apply PVA, it does not hurt to have a little draft on your plug in fact it is almost required 1 degree is enough.
thanks for doing this rulof. I love your channel and how the comments try to help you get better. I can't believe the quality here, this has been amazing. One thing I'd suggest is perhaps ease off on the music by making it almost silent or totally silent during the parts where you are talking in the studio space towards the camera. A mix of music montages and no music sound only makes for a smooother flow imo. Otherwise I love the editing, it is super easy to follow. Thank you again for your work good sir :)
Very cool project. But just so you know the reason your resin mold stuck to your resin LED is because they are both resin. Happy to see your second mold came out so well.
To do this properly you need to make a silicone mould from your 3d printed plug which will make it a lot easier to de-mould the finished part and you will be able to re-use the silicone mould multiple times.
In fusion you can control the quality of the part (controls the smoothness) when exporting. Even then it can be helpful to import the model into another program and apply a smoothing modifier. 3DS Max for example has Turbosmooth. Polygons are, by their nature, flat surfaces. You really only get the illusion of roundness when you have more of them and they're smaller. More polygons/vertacies means more detail, but it also takes longer to process and render the model and can cause problems with some slicers if you have too many (depending on the slicer and your computer specs).
I think you have to make the mould slightly cone shaped and I also think you have to make a litte air tube in the bottom to apply some pressure when you want to release the LED.
If you thought he was gonna make an led especially of that size without using a commercialy bought led you definitely wear safety goggles when watching laser videos
@uksuperrascal i mean it functions exactly like an led, technically is an led and looks like an led. Different people have different interpretations of concepts and different ways of describing things. And it's something almost anyone can make. And no goggles arent for wimps if anyone else is reading this please wear the appropriate goggles but thats up to you lol
You need to adjust stepping/subdivision count to 36 or so, there's no round objects in computer 3d graphics, it will be always made out of bezier curves or triangles.
You have to use tacky silicone spray-on mold release. The firm tacky kind that doesn't run down the sides of the mold soon after you spray it in place. Once the casting is done it should pull out, a removable section at the closed end of the mold would help to keep it from forming a vacuum and holding it stuck in place, Silicone that sticks to the product and mold can be wiped off with alcohol, which devolves the silicone,
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When exporting model as a mesh from Fusion you have to adjust refinement options in "save as mesh" window to get smooth transitions on curved surfaces.
or just use obj format..most slicers support it
@@bsod41443Mf is even better than that.
I wonder how he exported it. I thought save as mesh was the only way
You'd think a resin printer would be able to just use a collection of image files or something like a GIF file but lossless
Obj - 2000 faces
Stl - 30000 faces
Step - 130000faces
Use .step
I don't know much about F360 but generally export as 3MF instead of STL, and in Cura you may also try ARC welder plugin.
I really enjoy the confidence of Italians, French, Spaniards and Portugues speaking broken English with so much confidence.
Your problems with splitting the parts are usually related to the draft angle of the parts. You need to design your 3d parts to have some small angle at the side walls. If you do it they will disconnect much easier, than when you do straight walls. Now that you have them straight you had a hard time when removing it even from the wax, since when you pulling it you create the vacuum behind it. And if the walls were tilted at least 1-2 degrees it would split like a charm, because the air would have the space to come through.
You'll have to get a handle on silicone molds! Way easier for this type of molding. Easier release, and reusable. Also, export your file as a step file so that there are no 'sides' like a mesh model.
Results look great so far though!
So cool. The second attempt was perfect. The LED resin was completely clear and the light was beautiful. Thanks for sharing this.
Use silicon for the mold. Cut into the silicone with a scalpel to release, but only part way down each side. The cut faces will fit back together perfectly.
Make a two piece outer support for the mold using fibre glass. The two halves can be clamped around the mold to keep it all together for casting.
Use a mold release agent.
maybe you meant "silicone", silicon is the thing in your cpu
The LED 3D file came out low-poly because the 3D file that was exported from Fusion 360 was also low-poly; it was shaded smooth to make it appear as though it had a higher level of detail. It will become more apparent when you import the 3D file into the slicer. The 3D LED file was also not an "optimized" 3D file, meaning there were some errors within it. I'm also not a chemist, but it seems as though the resins are too chemically similar and bond together, so you would need to add more release agent, use a coating on the 3D print, create a mold like you did in the video, or see if there's an alternative 3D resin that would be suited for casting. Awesome video, and the resourcefulness is incredible!
Might also help to print the mold in two halves.
By the way if you model something in OpenSCAD you can control the amount of facets in circles.
You didn't make a giant LED. You made a housing for a commercially-available LED. Click-bait titles are not appreciated, my friend.
You are wrong,
1.He showed us the picture in the thumbnail, of his desein.
2. He said how to make a GAINT led not a normal led.
3. Your just some stupid guy/girl who stumbles across such inocent videos like this and say its click bait for no reason.
i was expecting him to actually make one as well. still a good video tho, and maybe it'll inspire someone into actually doing it. hopefully be a bit safer about it too 🤣
this!
expected by the title, that he would "make" a huge led model, which would work. but this is just a resin housing for a flashlight
Shame,you dont pay to watch this channel,and you can choose to skip...so stop winning like a little biatch and make your own then.....And if you think of saying :"Why so angry?" Dont bother cause thats soo old already
WELL AT LEAST IT LOOKS LIKE ONE
When exporting from F360 as a mesh you have to higher the polygon count for better quality mesh export. I don't know how resin slicers work, but most slicers for FDM are able to handle step files also and with the step format you don't have any polygons.
For a reusable mold you could use 2K silicon 😉
😢😢😊😊😅😅😮😮😮🎉🎉😂😂❤❤
I do a lot of curvy stuff and I like to specify 360 or 720 for my loft detail, but sometimes need to go even higher depending on the curves. Also the splines control the detail depending on how many points you assign to them. The final meshes have polys about 1mm squared which is easily sanded by hand.
your mold release issue is most likely that the spray is just way too thin a surface because both resins are essentially the same material (just with a different "cure starter"), so they'll just LOVE to attach to each other. for a big part like this a negative mold of a completely different material (like your wax or some silicone or such) is pretty much the only safe option.
He should have used a PVC rubber then the mold would have been reuseable.
silicon spray that will cure in air , is better solution, I guess
@@JohnDoew-hz8qt just dont pour the same material the mold is made of into it (especially when the "material" is "bunch of chemistry just waiting for any excuse to weld those together on a submolecular scale") , problem solved. :P
also the usual issues of "measure once cut twice" still apply, eg having *any* design process going into your mold (draft angles, etc) tends to help a lot ;)
Easy "In and Out" with your lathe with a polish. Scaring or taking the risk of cracking your epoxy was hard to watch. Love your content. ❤ Back country solutions! We need more people like this!!!
For those interested, a little more depth on how LEDs work: It's not really that the semiconductor jiggles about to release light; rather it's the position and size of a gap in the range of possible energy states of the electrons in the material that is the defining feature of semiconductors. Conducting electrons fall into bound states in the lattice, giving off the energy lost as light. The size of the band gap determines the wavelength (colour) of the emitted light. The reason the device has to be a diode is that its poles need to be made up of what we call carrier-selective materials: one side is electron-rich (n-doped), which makes it easier for electrons to move about, while the other is electron-deficient (hole-rich, p-doped), which makes it easy for electron vacancies (holes) to move. Where these two sides meet, electrons move from the n side to the p side, giving off light in the process, until a voltage is built up that is high enough to prevent more movement. When an _external_ voltage is applied across the device in the "forward" direction (opposite to the internal voltage), this keeps supplying electrons to the n side and extracting them from the p side, thus preventing the internal voltage from fully building up, and thereby allowing more and more electrons to move across the junction, falling from the conduction band into the valence band and giving off light. Some types of LEDs have a thin layer of intrinsic (neither p nor n) semiconductor in the middle that acts as a quantum well to trap electrons and holes and encourage recombination in that layer. In this case, the band gap, and thus, the colour, is ultimately determined by the material of the intrinsic layer and its thickness.
Thanks. This was the answer I was looking for (but not find in the vid) 👍
Instead of wax you could use silicon resin. Then you can reuse it and it will be much easier to remove.
I was thinking the same
Pretty interesting that regular diodes emit infrared light like an LED, but did you know that solar panels are also LEDs? If you put enough voltage across them they will light up (but not well) also an LED will generate a little power when a bright enough light hits it!
Solar panels also emit infrared light when a voltage is applied. This is why your inverters are diode protected so you don’t radiate off your electricity in IR at night after the sun goes down.
Also high power can transistors will produce some power if you delid them and shine light into their dye.
If you put enough voltage across ANYTHING, it will light up! (At least for a time; though the time might be only slightly greater than 0.)
If you wanna go for that 100w LED, you might wanna try distilled water cooling. You'll have a very small heat exchanger underneath the LED embedded in the epoxy, while the pipes will be led's terminals at the same time. The cooling/pumping of the fluid can be done in the base of the lamp for flawless esthetics...
Probably a good idea... a 100 watt LED will burn the resin easily if it's not cooled enough.
I was thinking he could use a water block and use copper pipes with it.
@@steve-paul given that a 100w led throws about 15w heat, the system should be able to withstand 20w of heat. That amount of heat is more likely to be evacuated through a convection heat exchanger at the bottom using one small aquarium pump (cheap and effective). IMO it can't be done w/o the pump.
Perhaps a double layer peltier cooler (TEC) with a heatsink or heat tubes if you want to remotely locate the heat sink.
@@revmsj afaik heat pipes are common for short distance (some centimeters, not meters; I guess one could calculate ΔT with online tools). The Peltier elements (the rated ones, not the Alistuff things) come with efficiency/temperature and temperature/current charts. The rest is pure math to describe minimum power supply ratings 😉.
For decades no one told us that this is possible. But you did..👍👍👍👍👍👍
As a technician i love this idea. Maybe you find the time to make a video how you made your vacuum chamber
Is it in eletrica
What you printed looks exactly like the 3d model you showed on the screen, so the problem is clearly with the render.
Dude! You have one of the coolest intros on TH-cam
I didn't know Rulof had a new TH-cam channel till i found this video while looking for giant LED's.
It's so smooth and polished, you can stick it in your ... kitchen. Lol! Super cool idea! I want one.
Your English is improving so muchhhh! Great project and love seeing your videos pop up in my feed
Changing the voltage for an LED usually doesn't change the colour of light it emits, except if you go too far above its rated energy. In that case it will first go extremely bright, then light-blue, yellow, brown and then nothing.
There are are LEDs that are made specifically for color change based on current and voltage. They are just not common as the cost is quite high compared to a multi pin rgb
@@Protocol-X
They are so rare that I've never seen such. But it's probably not technically hard to implement, just put multiple LEDs in one plastic bit and a little chip that lights up a different one of the LED crystals depending on the voltage.
Man liked the project and the mold looked after fixed like a cool glass for water very nice indeed👍
Hey Rulof, Mistakes are more important to discovery and learning than opening the internet or a book and having the answer. You are a fantastic teacher. I am a professor and I see a genius in you.
Can you make a video about a flat LED about the same size? I make signs and use the strips. They look terrible. One surface mount light in the center would be better. Thanks
I didn't know you made a switch of channel ! I just realized that I never got notified of the new videos coming out from your last channel … always love what you made and still do !
😂 Your accent is really soothing till the end when you swing your "KITCHEN" implement about giggling manically stroking its end....
you can use the electrodes as metal pipe to flow water to cool the LED inside resin blocks.
Grande ! Speriamo che l’algoritmo giri bene. Qualora non volessi impazzirti con l’inglese oltretutto esistono tantissime AI che ti creano in pochi minuti la voce in inglese per tutta la durata del video. Rendendo tutto super professionale :) Big up Rulof 🔝
Interesting project. Based on the issues, I would suggest just making a silicone mold. And gilt some mold selease spray or powder. Silicone is very cheap there days and would also allow you to add a way to hold the internals easier. Your first approach was better, though, since you are not using a pressure chamber, the internals should be placed before adding resin to prevent introducing air bubbles from submerging the parts. The only thing I did not like "just cosmetic purposes" is the led you added. I probably would have used a cob led strip and lined it on the tathode and anode edge for a more realistic look and feel, but maybe then it would look to plain for use as a lamp. Either way, it's still a nice video, thanks.
The resin slicer just lights up the pixels it's given, so it's not the slicing process. I can see the facets in the faces in your exported file. I don't know how Fusion 360's export works, but I know in Rhino 3d I can specify the resolution of the exported file, which then impacts the faces on the STL model. You can likely do the same in 360.
Now here is man who's truly passionate about trying to get into this game. You hafta be heartless, elitist, or a 13 year old to hate anyone with this much earnestness.
Rulof, that was wonderful. You did a great job. Keep it up! Liked and sub'd.
Parents: you have just watched an episode of Mr. Wizard, if he had to buy his own materials and work from first principles on everything. Why are you copasetic with school teachers having to do the same thing?
Can't wait to see the flashlight you make with it. 😮
This is amazing. I am definitely going to incorporate this into my next lighting design project.
One thing I have seen done when doing epoxy pours is to pour it down a glass rod into the mold to prevent bubbles getting picked up during the pour.
Cool although you definitely need to make a silicone mold that weight comes off and it's reusable and maybe some different mold release spray.
hey Rulof, new sub, if you would like to make a reuseable mold, you will need to use proper mold release agents. at our shop after the mold is completed, then comes the preparation, the wax we use is Partall paste #2 made by Rexco, made in the USA. this paste is applied like you're waxing your car, I use my fingers to layout the wax very thin and uniformly, you can use a cloth rag or paper towel to remove the wax immediately after applying it, rub and buff to get it shining, then do this again 2 more times, at this point the mold is seasoned. last part, we use a PVA as the mold release the one we use is Part #67 PVA green made by Finish Kane, I don't know if this comes in small quantities, it may only come in one US gallon containers. another option is a mold release that comes in a spray can, should work. the first mold you made would have worked out perfectly, but needed the wax and a mold release. if you would like any additional info message me back. mike
ps yeah I would definitely buy one, it would make a cool room light!!!
Hi Rulof, your 3D model needs more edge loops so that the surface can be smooth when you export the 3D model to an external application. Hope this is helpful.
Did you know conventional diodes, solar cells, and even PN junctions inside transistors, also emit (infrared) light when forward biased? It's just that they really suck at it.
LED's differ greatly in comparison to regular rectifier diode. LED's can handle little currents and voltage drop for LED's is much higher and it is impossible to replace regular diode with led unless minuscule currents are flowing. Also power dissipation in rectifiers is related to their voltage drop and according to ohms law when current flows through it generates about 0,7V times current of power in watts. I doubt that heat generation is related to IR light emission but at this time i dont have such articles to argue
Yeah he was spewing a lot of bullshit
This is AWESOME! time to invest in a silicone mold!
The subtitles were appreciated!
Subscribing 100% because of:
"Looks like something you can stick in your........ kitchen"
😂😂😂
Che figata, hai anche un buon inglese, ti alleni! Bravo!
في كل مرة اعاهد الله ان اقاطع فيديوهاتك .... لاكن يحدث ان اشاهدها .... فاندم مرة اخرى
Awesome finished product! Now you need to make your own giant laser pointer using blue LD.
You need a lot More mould release, or get a silicone based spray lubricant, worked amazing for epoxy releasing.
The proper way of doing it would be to print a positive then make a negative in silicone mould then cast the resin in the silicone mould. It’s telhmpreture resistant.
YOU SHOULD MAKE A LARGE STREO LED VU METER BAR LIKE ON STEROS THAT MOVE WITH SOUND
the best TH-cam suggestion ❤
Your SL file has the faces clearly visible in your fusion creation, it was not a fluke it was a feature of your design as you have not defined the joints to be circular.
Bro I want to give a suggestion for the mould to use a silicon mould it can be used again and again so many times and you can make them in any shape. 👍 Thanks
i would advise making a silicon mould, this is soft and you can use multiple times
Wow. Rulof is back.
Commenting for the algorithm
That was a pretty cool project. We learn from our mistakes!
1. adjust refinement options in "save as mesh" in fusion to make your prints smooth circles.
2. Use silicone molds, resin won't stick to it.
Incredible channel! Glad to find you my friend! Watching to the end ;)
U can use the 3d printed version as a positive instead of a negative like u did, make the mould out of silicone rubber from the positive with a little wax and I'm sure It's gonna work perfectly for many many casts
"every diode is an LED", this blew my mind.
can you create big semi conductor real L.E.D inside this?
Thanks for the video. Easily got our thumbs up! Enjoyed watching it with our kids and hoping these types of videos will inspire them to be craftsman of some sort instead of them wasting their life with video games and shallow tv shows
9 minutes in and he finally reveals that he isn't actually making an LED.
I got disappointed when you used led for led instead of making a diy led 😢😢😢❤❤❤❤❤
I would love to use those on a cartoonish christmas tree haha
Super video, thank you! You can make a positive master with 3D printing and then make a silicone elastomer mould rather like your wax mould. But you can use a silicone mould many times. If you can cast epoxy in your shop, you can cast silicone. You need to build a wooden box for the silicone mould you can screw together and unscrew to take apart, to keep the mould rigid while casting, and cut wavy lines through the silicone to split it into several sections for releasing. It’s a good process for batch production 😊
Great work and craftsmanship, awesome idea for a lamp and all that.
Now, I hope that that thing lights up as a 100w traditional bulb would instead of plainly consume 100w, that would be counterintuitive to the purpose of LED tech I guess.
Well done.
Good luck.
Excellent videos ! 👍
Silicone molds work great for something like that
This was a great video about how LED works! I work a lot with 3D prints, both the resin style (that you use) and FDM Style. The reason the model had jagged edges is because of the export settings, check them and set them as high as you can for your software. I am going to sound annoying for this but PLEASE when handling uncured UV resin, wear gloves and a mask, this stuff can cause some long term lung issues and can damage your skin. Really cool video otherwise! i would like to get into mold making at some point:)
I came to say the same about the gloves & mask, people underestimate the carcinogenic compounds in these processes unfortunately
Maybe put wax mold in ice water to keep it cool enough to avoid melting it when resin hardens?
Use ARC Welder Addon which will change the G0/G1 lines used to make curves into actual G3/G4 arcs, giving you precise curves.
Nice! I would also polish the LED, to get less stray light and a brighter collimated beam.
Also I hope the resin won't get hazy or yellowish from the quite energetic blue wavelength of light.
Genuinely love seeing when things don't work because i have the same experiences with experimenting building things
Amazing project. great video. Best part is to learn from our mistakes. Thank you for sharing
Nice - but leds are not perfectly circular - there is an iconic 'flat' side - you can see it @7:45 - that shows the negative(cathode) side. Thanks for the idea of using fridge parts as a vacuum chamber! Must look into that.
The reason of polygun shape of your printed part is your STL export settings
And for the mold you just need to use some silicone it would be very easy to
Everybody avoiding blue light from screens and the sun
This man: 18:28
Very Creative. I like your Jumbo Magnum LED very much. If you should ever decide to sell some of them, I would very much like to buy one.
That’s great, I was wondering the other day if a led could be made large like that. It would seem to make great landing lights for a airport
He didn't make the LED, he just bought one on Amazon... Even a 10 yo can buy some shit on Amazon.
Not impressed...
Mold release... Elmers School Glue (PVA) and Johnson Paste wax. Wax first then apply PVA, it does not hurt to have a little draft on your plug in fact it is almost required 1 degree is enough.
thanks for doing this rulof. I love your channel and how the comments try to help you get better. I can't believe the quality here, this has been amazing. One thing I'd suggest is perhaps ease off on the music by making it almost silent or totally silent during the parts where you are talking in the studio space towards the camera. A mix of music montages and no music sound only makes for a smooother flow imo. Otherwise I love the editing, it is super easy to follow. Thank you again for your work good sir :)
Thank you for posting this video. You have a new subscriber. Keep up the great work 🎉.
Great video and project. The TH-cam subtitles are wrong though. It is COLOUR, REALISE and CENTRED.
Very cool project. But just so you know the reason your resin mold stuck to your resin LED is because they are both resin. Happy to see your second mold came out so well.
In the 90's at college we discussed cars having led headlights and this is exactly what I thought of ;-)(
To do this properly you need to make a silicone mould from your 3d printed plug which will make it a lot easier to de-mould the finished part and you will be able to re-use the silicone mould multiple times.
Great Result made by a sympathic man!
In fusion you can control the quality of the part (controls the smoothness) when exporting. Even then it can be helpful to import the model into another program and apply a smoothing modifier. 3DS Max for example has Turbosmooth. Polygons are, by their nature, flat surfaces. You really only get the illusion of roundness when you have more of them and they're smaller. More polygons/vertacies means more detail, but it also takes longer to process and render the model and can cause problems with some slicers if you have too many (depending on the slicer and your computer specs).
to remove air bubbles from resin, just use a blow torch.
That works very well for surface bubbles, but vacuuming is best for air distributed throughout the resin.
"So shiny you can stick it in your kitchen"
Good save :3
You are an absolute genius........... okay, now make a giant microprocessor.....
NICE PROJECT MAN, CONGRATULATIONS
I think you have to make the mould slightly cone shaped and I also think you have to make a litte air tube in the bottom to apply some pressure when you want to release the LED.
You only made a housing for the LED - You did not make the LED - BOO!!!
If you thought he was gonna make an led especially of that size without using a commercialy bought led you definitely wear safety goggles when watching laser videos
@@dudetapedtoafridge3073 Goggles are for wimps LOL - I bet you had the Jabs -
should be called - How to make a box for my LED project.
@uksuperrascal i mean it functions exactly like an led, technically is an led and looks like an led. Different people have different interpretations of concepts and different ways of describing things. And it's something almost anyone can make. And no goggles arent for wimps if anyone else is reading this please wear the appropriate goggles but thats up to you lol
I think your videos would greatly benefit from a diffused video light. Natural light alone isn't always enough to light you in the talking shots.
Cant wait for you to make it big man. Best wishes from Greece.
You need to adjust stepping/subdivision count to 36 or so, there's no round objects in computer 3d graphics, it will be always made out of bezier curves or triangles.
Great now make a matrix display 😎 I've discovered your channel and it's amazing I like the fridge compressor vacuum pump tip
You have to use tacky silicone spray-on mold release. The firm tacky kind that doesn't run down the sides of the mold soon after you spray it in place. Once the casting is done it should pull out, a removable section at the closed end of the mold would help to keep it from forming a vacuum and holding it stuck in place, Silicone that sticks to the product and mold can be wiped off with alcohol, which devolves the silicone,
wonderful!! add a "draft angle" to the part and *maybe* it comes out of the mold easier. well don