I am very impressed with all you presented here, especially the notes a couple times about safety, primarily around breathing the dust from the ceramic fiber. Please continue to do this yourself and recommend to others on future videos to protect their lungs. This is especially important when handling ceramic fiber after the firing is done. Any cutting, scraping, etc of ceramic fiber which has been subjected to very high temperatures may / probably contains cristobalite, which is a form of silica which is cancerous. I spend my 40 year career designing, constructing and rebuilding various kilns, lehrs, dryers, ovens for the glass and ceramic industry. Your understanding of basic to advanced heat transfer, high temperature materials and at least the basics of microwave oven operation is awesome. Thankfully, my employer (I have been retired for almost 4 years) allowed me to "Tinker" with various thermal process equipment types, mostly in non-typical applications of thermal energy or energy that would become thermal. That lead me to a few US Patents for the company. When trying to use a "disposed" or a "disposable" commercial microwave oven for the kind of things you are, you have to understand a few things, most of which you've already covered. But the TH-cam Community out there seems to really soak up not only the content of good videos, but they also seem drawn to read many of the comments / dialog, so here are my thoughts and they are all going to be worth every cent you pay for it. lol. Everyone freaks over turning on a microwave with nothing on the turn table. The microwaves are contained within the box if you haven't started to tinker with it yet. The typical home microwave is 2.45 GHz. To contain that wavelength within the box, 1/4 wavelength distance is all that you need to "chock" the energy from leaking out. Eventually, some of that microwave energy will bounce off the walls enough to potentially work it's way back thru the "waveguide" and burn up the magnetron. If you are trying to warm up last night's dinner, the plate might have meat on one side, mashed potatoes on the other and maybe gravy across the entire meal. The ability to accept microwave energy at room temperature for a given material depends on a variety of factors, but mashed potatoes and meat are probably different, as would be the gravy. This is one reason for the turn table that spins the food. I haven't taken a commercial microwave apart recently, but there used to be a spinning disk, called a stirrer at the exit of the waveguide that would "stir" the microwaves as they entered the chamber. The disk was not flat, but might look like an aluminum umbrella that was just shy of 100% open. The microwaves would reflect off this spinning stirrer and distribute the microwave energy more evenly within the box. The later combination of the stirrer and the turntable resulted in much better / even heating. So turning the microwave oven on it's side may result in the bearings for the motor driving the stirrer to fail. There were safeguards in place that if the stirrer was not spinning, the magnetron would shut off. So that may be more of the issue than the magnetron. Like I said, different materials heat in different ways in a microwave field. Most of the microwave properties change as the temperature goes up. Ceramic Fiber blanket does not heat very much on its own in microwave fields. The higher the alumina content, the more "transparent" it is to heating by microwave energy alone. But if you were to put your SiC crucible in the microwave without it, you would quickly see a bright glow then a melt down of your microwave. This is because the SiC heats up easily and starts to radiate the thermal energy to it's surroundings which would be the inside of the microwave. Putting the crucible inside the ceramic fiber blanket contains the thermal energy created by the microwave energy because the ceramic fiber blanket has a very low thermal conductivity. There are several companies which make the ceramic fiber blanket that also make ceramic fiber board material. So, in theory, if you got high alumina fiber board, you could fabricate a 6 sided box on it's side, with an end panel you could pop off when you open the door, you could more easily get to your crucible or whatever you are trying to heat with microwave energy. Having some distance between the crucible and the ceramic fiber board walls would allow radiation of thermal energy from the crucible to the walls and back to the cooler areas of the crucible. Thermal energy always goes from hot to cold. Follow good sound safety practices dealing with ceramic fiber, high temperature materials / burn potential, as well as a good way to kill the power very quickly to the mw oven and extinguish flames properly. Don't do this stuff in your kitchen! Best if done in a workshop without combustible materials around. Dumb people make dumb mistakes. Smart people burn their houses down because they think they are so smart. don't do that! If you do, you are on your own. Have safe fun, learn new things and share what you learn!
This is fantastic information for anyone who will be actually trying this out. The comment should be pinned. (If it’s too long to read, then maybe don’t try this at home;) Edit for typo
Like I said in my other comment, I'm a total noob, but I have a question. _"So, in theory, if you got high alumina fiber board, you could fabricate a 6 sided box on it's side"_ Why high alumina? You said in the previous paragraph that is makes the insulation layer less transparent to microwaves. Don't you want it _more_ transparent, so more of the microwave energy reaches the crucible? Thanks for the detailed information. You're right, people do read the comments because they sometimes contain expert opinions that add a lot to the already great video content.
@@ShakeTheFuture I don't know what your background is, but whatever drives your curiosity and more importantly, your sharing of what works (and why) as well as what doesn't (and why) is very impressive. It would be great having a beer, a glass of wine or sipping on a good bourbon with you and chatting! I think concerning microwave heating in a commercial microwave oven, folks need to understand is why you have to worry about the ceramic fiber in the first place. The commercial microwave oven is not designed to contain the thermal energy it can generate if the material you put into it can "couple" into the microwave energy. For instance, if you want to heat a cup of water for tea, you can generally put cold tap water in a glass cup / mug and place in a commercial microwave oven for 2 minutes and you can have tea after it has steeped for some time. But some of my mugs in my cupboard, if I fill with cold tap water and put it into the same microwave oven for 2 minutes, I need to use a pot holder to retrieve it and I find that even though the mug is extremely hot, the water is luke warm at best. This is because of the materials used in the mug interact with the microwave energy, leaving less microwave energy to reach the water. The water increases in temperature in two ways. One being thermal conduction with the inside of the mug which is hotter than the water, and the other is a small amount of the microwave energy found it's way to the water. Remember that microwave energy will bounce around in the microwave oven containment, so some will eventually find the top of the mug and find the water. Without getting into all the theory of microwave energy, suffice it to say that as it bounces around, the ability to "couple" drops off significantly. Otherwise, as soon as we reached in to get our cup of hot water, our hand would instantly heat. But much like the ceramic mug I need a pot holder to grab onto heats in a microwave field, some materials really heat in that environment. Various grades of Silicon Carbide heat very nicely, depending on a variety of factors. So a cup made of Silicon Carbide will heat water very effectively, maybe violently if left in the microwave field long enough. This is where you have to look at the other parts of the environment the object being heated is exposed to. Assume that the SiC object is a round ball. If you place this in the microwave field, it will start heating up "volumetrically". Then, the outside surface of the ball becomes hot enough to lose thermal energy to the inside of the microwave oven. As more microwave energy is applied, the energy goes into the ball, but the thermal energy on the inside builds up in the form of temperature, and the outside of the ball loses more and more thermal energy, thus dropping the temperature of the surface of the ball. In most materials, the hotter the material gets, the easier it is for the microwave to "couple". This can easily result in a thermal runaway, something you really want to avoid! This is why the Silicon Carbide crucible is either wrapped in ceramic fiber or placed in a ceramic fiber (blanket or board) container. Because the thermal conductivity of the ceramic fiber board (or blanket) is so low, the SiC crucible starts to heat in the microwave environment, then wants to radiate thermal energy to the surroundings. The inside surface of the ceramic fiber receives the thermal energy, begins to glow in it's internal surface, but can't easily conduct the thermal energy to the outside of the ceramic fiber board (or blanket). Therefore, little microwave energy is "lost" to the thermal containment, and more is used to heat the crucible. The challenge is how to repeatably control the results of your efforts. In a conventional kiln, a control thermocouple in the air measures the thermal energy applied to the environment and a controller compares that temperature with a recipe of time versus temperature and applies more or less thermal energy to the kiln. If you want precise repeatability, if you can place the thermocouple right in contact with the part, that is best. But experience typically tells us that this may damage the surface of the part you are trying to thermally process. If you put two parts in the center of your kiln and measure the surface temperature of one that will be thrown away, then you might have one good one. That is, if you know the nature of the material you are heating. Some materials exhibit certain reactions within the materials, such as exothermic or endothermic reactions which can result in a career of chasing these reactions with various techniques (and maybe some interesting patent applications :-) ). I hope this confirms some of the experiences that you may have stumbled on or matches that which you've planned on. It seems like you and your followers tend to be more interested in melting / remelting various metals in a crucible. The challenges you probably have is managing the thermal losses thru the bottom of the crucible, which is in direct contact with the bottom of the thermal container. Balancing the desire to minimize the thermal contact between the bottom of the crucible and the stability of the crucible itself so that the melted metal doesn't tip over when you open the microwave door is your challenge. ideally, 3 little alumina pyramids holding the crucible up would be best if you could gently open the door latch. Maybe two alumina rods would provide more stability, especially if you could cut a shallow groove in the ceramic board in the bottom of the kiln, minimizing the contact with the board but preventing the rolling. A further enhancement of this would be to use alumina tubing to minimize the thermal conductivity away from the crucible (which really is your objective, to keep everything you melted, melted!). If you really wanted to get fancy, some alumina kiln component suppliers make a type of roller hearth kiln roller that has a corkscrew type appearance along the OD. This would help minimize the contact with the crucible even more! All the best to you guys (and gals) trying to exploit the tools that are out there waiting for someone to try. Just think things thru ("thought experiments" is what one senior engineer I worked with in the beginning of my career called them) and try to guess what could go wrong and plan to protect against it or how to put out the fire on the way out! Share your experiences, both good and bad, with like-minded crazy scientists, regardless of yours or their college degree! That is how this crazy world we live in will be able to move forward. Challenge those who say "it can't be done" by proving one of you wrong. But always be safe in what you do, not only keep yourself safe, but show even more concern for others. And have fun doing what you do. Life is too short to spend your career doing boring stuff that doesn't advance the world forward in some way! God bless you all. John
I know it’s been a while, but trust me. I had a good reason behind promising this video and not delivering on time. Better late than never! This has been a long project….very long. I had this video shot and ready at least 3 times and then I decided to change something….that led to reshooting a big portion of the video. At the end, all the delays only made this video better. Ps. I know my face is not super sharp in some parts (focus issues…time to upgrade cameras). Keep an eye on youtube shorts.
Oh my god I just spent hundreds of dollars YESTERDAY buying a furnace and a graphite crucible and blow torch and Tongs.... But this method is absolutely amazing...game changer!!! You my friend deserve the Nobel peace prize and three olympic gold medals for this 😮😮😮
*_I was there Denny, 3000 years ago, when you made a bottle cutter._* With your video, I made a one as well and after that I watched every one of your videos. In my opinion you are one of the unique creators. Amount of work and effort behinds this progress is really remarkable. I hope you get more than enough interaction. And please keep them coming.
All of this, shows how knowledge dispels the need for bravery. There's no way I would nave considered smelting metal in a microwave, until this very smart and well read young man demonstrated how it could be done, Curious people that change the perspective create great progress. You have done that for sure. Thank you for showing others the way.
Wow. This seems like a very effective low-budged method for melting and casting method. I like how well you explained everything in detail so it is repeatable easily. Good video. Thanks👍
Meanwhile back in the kitchen, I'm halfway through melting some brass, when I hear the cry 'Hi honey, I'm home.' Oh Shiiiii it's the mrs... Followed by 'Why is the microwave on it's side?' Time to run! 😂😂😂
I was watching an interesting video when my 9mo woke up and kicked the smartphone out of my hand. When I picked it up this video was playing. It's absolutely true what they say... Children are a blessing 😂😇
Often when I try to develop a new "youtube skill" I watch several videos...and very often end up frustrated. You present the material wonderfully, with caveats, "gotchas", and "dont worries", better and worse, and remiders that skills take practice. New subscriber, immediate big fan. Keep up the good work, and cheers!
Came across this video by accident, and it's exactly what I didn't know I've been looking for, for years. I particularly liked your method of crucible manufacture. Always assumed I'd need sintering temps to make one but the sodium silicate method is inspired. Once the garage is tidied, there may be a corner for this. Instant subscribe. Thank you.
A suggestion for the folks who want to melt metal in a crucible and finding that the discarded microwave ovens don’t have enough power or you don’t want to mess wither the health dangers of ceramic fiber, look into induction heating! Just take off your wedding bands! Induction may get you melting quicker and consistent results! Just a thought
Stuck in an appartment, with very small space (16m²) and not having my workshop anymore, I think i'll go for this method. thanks for all the details and explanations, very good work and video editing. Inspiring
Keep your place well ventilated or do your stuff on balcony. Otherwise you are poisoning your home and with that yourself and those around you ... Speaking of people around you make sure that no other neighbor or their clothing is right next to you when you do this even outside.
@@minmogrovingstrongandhealthy I agree, we never know what elements residues are into the metals we melt. I'm quite sensitive to this question as i'm convinced my father developped his autoimmune diseased before passing away because of all the jobs he did in his life and the various hazard risks he met. From working in a chromatation company with those hot bath evaporating chrome all around, to the building industry and its well known silicosis related problem. Without telling he also practiced mechanics and motor repairing all his life too, hands in various grease and synthetic oils, benzens derivatives, whitespirit, acetone... And never wearing a damn pair of gloves nor a mask. So, safety is always my first concern. I don't wanna die at 63 like him just after being retired. Stay safe !
@@OktoPutsch A friend's father died this year, so as my uncle, they were metal workers and were always stubborn never used protection, they suffered for 15 years and as a final ended their life from lung cancer. It's really common sense, melting anything causes fumes and when you inhale those they stack up into your organism causing problems. I have problems with few neighbors who burn plastic but even if not that people today in general use ANYTHING that their materials are harmful, they fall apart easier then before and create dust, that dust is picked up by the wind and taken places, I have today more problems with allergies then ever because people burn and use all sorts of garbage around me that causes harm to everyone. When you get sick it's too late to complain ... you have to prevent it by using common sense , sadly seem like plenty of people lack in this basic brain feature today ... Each generation seem to be stupider then the previous ...
❤Finally a genius showed us the way to do it in a microwave. This is the future never did I think that was possible. I thought this video was going to show a guy exploding metals in a microwave. I was like no way that is not possible that's crazy until i've seen the video Good job my fellow russian
Loved the thorough and concise description. Bravo, on a very professional video. I will offer one tip on working with Kaowool - A very light misting with water will significantly reduce airborne fibers. Add a drop of dish soap to make the water wetter, and mist the work surface. Also never vacuum the debris from trimming, use a wet rag. Safe pathes.
Instead of kiln wash, I would personally use refractory cement. Mix it thin and paint it on in thin coats. It'll soak into the surface fiber and when it cures stiffen the surface of the platform. Doing so removes the risk of the crucible sticking and makes for a more sturdy platform.
After watching this video TH-cam recommend another video with microwave experiments. In that video a microwave is tested for the heating pattern then disassembled and used with only the wave guide attached and the heating pattern tested again. The heating directly in front of the wave guide is much more concentrated. I think if you built a custom enclosure with the wave guide pointed directly at the kiln and crucible it would probably work much faster and perhaps allow using a larger crucible and volume of metals. I would like to try exactly this with a custom enclosure with vacuum or purged with Argon gas.
Interesting! There is definitely space for optimization. I have noticed myself that heating a cup of coffee is faster if it's closer to the waveguide. So there can be a difference between using microwave as intended, flipping it on the side or placing the chamber closer to the magnetron. Cheers!
Thank you for explaining it so well. Some of these people don't explain things well enough. Some of the things that you showed I had never even heard of. Like the ceramic fiber. Thank you again for the video.
Came upon by chance. And this IS the most freakin' amazing DIY I've seen on Utube or anywhere, EVER! Thanks very much STF for this incredible and inspiring lesson. I'm a machinist and mechatronics maker and I doubt I will ever need these skills and knowledge. But if I do, then I know where to come. I like the way you do it man. Keep on!
Really great stuff! I've been able to duplicate most of it! I do want to caution you about burning Kapton (or other fluorinated high temp plastics/tapes) VERY toxic vapors - easily kill birds for example - best recommendation: Don't burn it! If there is a risk of burning - Don't do it indoors!
I believe that heating process after making a crucible is actually sintering the carbide particles together, if what I've read is correct, silicon carbide sinters at around 1500°F and when it glows its usually around 1800-3000°F.
Like others are saying essentially, you are my hero for the day! Someone doing the good work of science without all the extra theory getting in the way of invention. I now have more uses for found microwaves than scrapping for transformers and whatnot👍🏻
Thank you! I'm glad you found it useful. The great thing about used microwaves is that you can get them for free or at a very low cost. Sometimes people sell (or dispose of) microwaves that don't look great from the inside, with issues like rust or yellowing. They may not be visually appealing for heating up food, so most people don't want those microwaves... except for the microwave metal melting community 😃
FINALLY; the video is out... massively impressed by your prior: I had had so wanted to give it a go.... But upon your personal intervention stating that I had best wait and that it would be so worth it: I have waited. Now I am so eagerly going to watch through with initially great expectations due to how considerable attention to detail you have to date presented. EDIT: Just watched it and I have to admit that I liked the complexity of your earlier project a little more for some reason. So such: I had to force my superficial appreciation aside to fully note down the very hard work you have put in simplifying and optimizing the whole process. As you yourself have stated: This project can be completed within an hour or two. And this is so absurd for anyone that has done metal casting.... It is so difficult to fathom that such a short time would be sufficient to get you up and running with literally everything you need made from scratch (Save the microwave). We all owe this ridiculous short time to get up and running to your persistent tests you have to date gone through and shared; basically so we do not have to. I encourage everyone to watch and follow up on your channel. Your efforts to deliver are not easy to be paralleled. Thank you SO MUCH for all of this and even going the extra mile to warn us to not invest on an older version that since it is as a result outdated... And I am SO GLAD that you seem to be fine. I had had gotten worried.
It took me 3-4 days using the previous method (well, not working all day long). Denny says he is not the good example for reference...It hides a lot of practice. But I would say a 10% time efficiency and 98% result efficiency is reasonable. We are not at Olympic games!
Thank you, highly informative and sharing a non-trivial experience. A quick question if you don't mind: what is the grit that one should use for forming the crucible/heating rings? I find silicon carbide for sale around here in two major classes: abrasive powders (in 500g as the maximal packaging) and sandblasting (in 20kg+). Obviously, the latter is a lot cheaper per weight, but the finest grit I could find around is 36-40. Would it be appropriate? If not, how fine I should go? Or should I look for other (than abrasive) types of SC?
Thank You very much! That's very kind of you. I can never remember the grit size charts/numbers etc. I just always refer to grit as coarse/medium/fine/powder. I usually use medium or fine grit. I buy silicon carbide in 25kg bags from a sandblasting store myself. Here is a copy-paste info about the exact grit size I bought the last time. "25kg Silicon Carbide SIC FEPA 220 (44 - 75 µm)" Cheers!
This is a great video. The amount of detailed information you have included is very much appreciated. You also did an excellent job at ensuring that the content is finely pointed towards your target demographic (the at home DIY-er).This really is the ultimate guide.
I have no idea how anyone found out you can do this but it's a fantastic quick method for melting small quantities of various metals. I'm totally amazed you can melt stainless steels, they require a LOT of heat! I've had an idea needing a small copper casting but haven't wanted to build a full on foundry for a small 'experiment', this may well make it probablity! Thank you for posting, great explanations. I'm going to check out a few more of your video's.
This is one of the greatest maker type videos i have seen so far! I have just subscribed to your channel, thank you for sharing all of your experiences!
Wow you really understand what you're doing from the start to the end. Every part of the process you understand the mechanics and physics behind it. Admirable!
Water glass (sodium silicate) can be hardened in several ways. Exposure to carbon dioxide will harden it, either by absorbing the gas from the air or by deliberately gassing. That is the way I harden my sand cores for metal casting. I will try that when I make a crucible.
Great info. Subbed! I'm using a mw to melt silver. Silver in molten state is a sponge to oxygen. If you pore it in a mold and cools down the oxygen is fissing out like a carbonated drink. So i'm using graphite crucibles and carbon to create a reducing atmosphere.
So using just a graphite crucible is just fine? Was wondering if it really had to be made from silicon carbide, because those seem to be hard to come by. Or am I missing something?
@@RogerJonker oh, nice, I'll definitely take a look. I also commented too soon, didn't even see he made the crucibles himself yet. But the graphite crucibles you can buy seem to also have some silicon carbide in them, or at least some of them do
Great vid! Safety concerns are very real with the dust. I’m now imagining a bar graph showing the actual respirators people who try this use! Drager industrial respirator; hardware store bought N95 respirator; dust mask; I’ll-fitting respirator of any kind; no respirator!
Love the video! I've been going down my own experiments trying to make a kiln hot enough to make synthetic corundum. I had arrived at a similar mold making technique as you using a basic 3D printed form made from water glass and silicon carbide. Mine are just much smaller (~20mm in diameter). I've also been using firebrick so it can withstand the higher temps, although I've melted through several different types. I end up getting hot enough to melt the crucible itself so I plan on trying commercially available silicon carbide crucibles that also use some graphite to get to higher temps. I have managed to get some material hot enough to fluoresce under UV but it never enough to form a chunk of solid corundum like I want. Just wanted to thank you for all of the knowledge and inspiration and to share my small journey with you.
Very interesting, first time hearing about this but now I really want to try this. A thought that came to me right now: instead of building a chamber for the crucible, couldn't you just insulate the whole inside of the microwave, including the inside of the door? That way you could maybe fit a bigger crucible inside (if you really wanted) and it might also be more convenient to use. Just a suggestion, maybe something worth a try though. I'm really interested in what points would speak against doing this.
Yes, it's definitely possible. The setup I use works for me because I can use the same microwave for various purposes. First I use a microwave kiln to burn out molds, then melt metal in the same microwave, but different chamber. It really depends on individual needs. There could be an issue if you want to melt more metals in a row. With the chamber setup you can remove the heat source from the microwave and use another chamber to do more metal melting. If the microwave is insulated and the hot ceramic fiber can't be removed, then there is a potential of the microwave to overheat. When microwave overheats it just turns off. There are thermal switches that cut the power. Then you need to wait until the microwave cools down enough to start working again. So, yeah it's definitely an option. It really depends on how are you planning to use the microwave. Thanks!
When i was young they said "never put metal in the microwave you will destroy it !", 2023 "let's put metal in microwave and melt it" ... really nice video, thank you :)
If I remember correctly from my material science class, water glass is called that because it's a glass forced into a liquid state at room temp (I've heard you liquify glass with an acid and then neutralize the acid?), it wants to crystallize but it can't without a nucleation site, as soon as you introduce a nucleation site like a grain of sand it will rapidly crystallize, I used it for lost wax investment casting precious metals
You are a god damn god among men! A genius! This is knowledge i dont know how i could live without. And it just so happens i have a spare micro wave lying around. :)
It's so nice to see you back at it again. I know this is a simplified version but I can't help but to wonder if you've tried making a version with a lip & groove feature to better seal the base and top. Just a small woolly protrusion from the bottom that fits inside the top. That way you don't have to bother with sanding as much.
Yes, I have tried something similar. There are definitely many ways to approach this project. I don't mind sanding because it's very quick. The glass once sanded will last "forever" and sanding the chamber/base only takes minutes. Thanks!
It's not often that I only partially watch a video before I like it and sub to the channel. (Of course I then finished the video!) There are very few creators that break down a process as well as you just did. I also appreciate the explanation of WHY each step is important; and what to expect if a step is skipped, or done incorrectly. I apprenticed silversmithing for a year before the workshop I was at closed. It's since been something I would have loved to continue as a hobby, but the equipment cost was prohibitive. Looking forward to trying this out soon!
Interesting video. I definitely give this a try, even though I don't like ceramic wool. It's expensive and very difficult to buy where I live. I have made several different electric melting furnaces, usually using insulating fire bricks. I have one where I can use vacuum or argon. It uses flat kanthal strip which covers about 80% of inner surface. I 3d printed the internal mould which had grooves for wire. Then I covered it with clay based refactory mass which can take 1500C, let it dry and burned the mould away. That one is put inside a 20l steel pot and insulated with ceramic wool. It takes 1l crusible. I can use it for aluminium or brass, but with cast iron, there's risk of melting the wire. This microwave method sounds good for small amounts and can propably produce very low hydrogen contamination aluminium. To make this even better, it should be possible to put crucible into container, tape top and bottom together, leaving only small hole. Then put it into vacuum chamber and after air is being sucked off, fill it with argon and then put into microwave. Argon improves greatly wool insulation capability. It also prevents oxidation. So far I have used tig and small crucible to melt small amounts of cast iron and stainless steel. I use tungsten rods as positive and negative and pass argon directly to the crusible.
What an outstanding video! Full of good tried stuff. I'm trying it.. Comments so far.. If you are melting Iron or steel, Ware Cotton or wool. (Iron bounces off skin). Everything else, Armor UP!! No polyester!!. Especially melting aluminum. It takes more heat to melt than iron, even at the lower temp melt point, and non ferris metal STICKS to skin!! (from personal experience) Looking for pliers while your skin boils away takes the fun out of a project. Don't work over cement or damp ground. On printing the mold parts, on the center cup, make sure the center cup hex hole is down, and, the ridge holding the cap easily comes off, I used PLA and it needed higher temps to keep fine parts from coming off and haven't quite got it right. I would be interested in a video on your egg cup in detail especially the burn out you use for your plaster investment. All that fine detail came out on the cast! Thanks for excellent work!
Thank You for amazing tips! I did not record a long format video of the egg cup, but I might re-shoot it, since more people are showing interest in it. Cheers!
This video is very well done. One of the best I have seen. BTW I've built my first chamber and, after five tries, I made my first crucible. I gotta ask ... are you using the household vacuum cleaner as a way to pull a vacuum on the plaster mold? True or not it made my day because I had never thought of dong that.
I've just bought a 3d printer and am just discovering the huge potential of what it can do and now you're telling me I can make those parts out of metal in my kitchen? Holy cow, get me a microwave!
Cost breakdown from the materials list provided ends up around 130-140 bucks. About the same price as small propane furnace. I guess the benefits that really stand out are not having to buy propane, not having to deal with flammable gasses, and small form factor. Great project!
Yes, it's not super cheap if you only want to make one chamber/base/crucible. However, I can make 2-4 different sized chambers and a large microwave kiln from one roll of ceramic fiber. I buy silicon carbide in bulk (25kg bags), and the cost of one crucible is under 1 euro. I do understand that not a lot of people will spend 100 euros on silicon carbide, and they will buy smaller amounts. I had to do it because of all the experimenting I did.
there are also ready made microwave ceramic kilns in ceramic shops. made from some sort of light stone material and graphite inside layer. so you could use a graphite crucible inside the stone kiln chamber for melting metals. you can even make the graphite crucible by carbonizing wood or bread, into shape.
actually some dude on youtube (AvE about 6 years ago) tested a carbonized bread furnace, works fine, its quite rigid too, opposite of fragile, hard like coal.@@fredericapanon207
well also depends on what kind of bread/putty you make the carbon fiber from, it can become dusty graphite or rigid coal-like stone form@@fredericapanon207
Another comment session. Silicone carbide mixing with water glass is easy if done in a zip lock heavy bag. The amounts should be as described in the video. Too much glass is a mess which slowly droops into a pile. I made a crucible that looks like a Styrofoam cup to allow separating the mold from crucible easily. If you line the mold with packing tape, both inner and outer, the carbide won't stick and won't crack getting the crucible free from the molds, inner first and outer last. Make sure your 3d printer is in top shape, no cracks in the extruder, filament is calibrated and printing surface is washed with "Dawn power wash" dish detergent to remove all grease. Carbide will stay ready for use lasting weeks unhardened if sealed in zip lock plastic bags if squeezing most air out before sealing. If your crucible cracks while unmolding, break the carbide into a powder quickly so making another try before it hardens. I use a mallet to pack carbide into the mold into a solid mass.
Great Video ! I have watched a few others you have done - also great. Was initially surprised that using a microwave oven was even possible for melting metals. I wonder how many people like me have just heard "don't put metal in a microwave oven" without really understanding the physics behind it.
If I can give a suggestion, buy a piece of kiln brick and put a disc of it in the bottom of the base. Alumina should be okay in the microwave. It doesn't stick, nor crack or sink and will serve as a solid table inside
I was watching with a high degree of focus... grumpy frown and all... being fascinated. Then you smashed the egg and I lost it 😂😂 Thanks! Liked and subscribed!
Awesome way to make a crucible with the water glass, also I didn't know you could colour water glass with simple food dye. That will definitely come in handy. Ty for sharing 👍
I have quite a few microwave kilns and a stack of microwaves😂 it always helps if you can add extra cooling around the winding since every microwave I've killed has died from excessive heat in the coil
That's interesting. Good for you. I wish we did something like that back when I was in college/Highschool. The only memories I have from high school "DIY" class it that teacher made us make things with dull tools. I remember this one time we had to make a piece of metal sharp with a dull file. That was not fun. Instead of making me fall in Love with DIY, I did not enjoy it. I started to carry my own sandpaper in the bag, just in case we need to sand something and the teacher gives us a cloth that once was a sandpaper 😀 I don't blame the teacher, I guess the school did not have money to spend on better tools.
@@ShakeTheFuture I was interested in a low cost foundry for making materials and used what I could find for mostly free. Used magnetite and clay as a crucible, firebrick for the insulation, and held it together. All of it had some suceptibillity to the microwaves; so it was not efficent and often overheated the microwave. I didnt any tutorials, and actually should have done a bit more research. I was an undergrad looking into material science and made some janky zno / tio2 photocatalysts -- not so much for metals. Great build quality you did, better entry level than what i threw together back then
Nice guide. I tried it. I even used the 3D form. It works fine but some parts are more or less expandable. I'm having only trouble with crucibles. I used F1000 silicon carbide and the crucible becomes foamy due to the chemical reaction when it cures on air. It cures fine in the oven except the bottom always bulges in and halves the volume of the crucible. Also it has tendency to crack at the place where external connection of the form used to be. I have found in old video that I should use F80. In new video author says "powder like".
Hi Denny! I have waited for this announced video for half year. Your entire job is absolutely marvellous! I have followed your previous tutorial with notable results. Even tried some developments: wall sanding mesh/net ( which is glass fiber net with silicon carbide particles glued) used as armature for obtaining silicon carbide rings. In final step the ring overall should be self-sustaining as glass fiber melts/"burns" at sintering temperatures and crumbles only by itself. Though, the net allows to use a plastic pipe section or a printed case for shaping the ring and provides support during intermediary phases. Second was to try reduce volumes by making a compound kiln - ceramic wool (wrapped around a glass) - as insulator and shape generator - "frozen" with some water-glass , silicon carbide slurry (some caolin and water-glass in the mixture) in the interior, aluminum oxide slurry (same add-in components) on exterior. About 5-7 mm thick each covering layer. All sintered. Ceramic wool separate cover (topping). Promising! Also trials to obtain silicon carbide or even use as-is (parts of) from cutting /grinding disks made of .... silicon carbide, for stone cutting. I was looking for a reasonable low cost, available SiC, as powder is hard to find. Anyway, all trials were inspired by you and your tutorials- which I have followed successfully. As this is not my main interest, I have let all aside for a while, but I'll be back for sure! Congratulations, you score maximum points for following: innovation/ tutorial/ do's and don'ts/ results/ worktime cut-off/ etc... ! I think your trials are one-of-a-kind on TH-cam -which means most of on-line info in this subject! I can testify your work hides a lot of work, trial and error, improvement and ease of methods. Applications target - successful exquisite home DIY metal casting. Please go on searching and sharing! Just a guess with that glass/aluminum base device with small kiln in middle. Ruby making? : )
This is actually amazing! Thank you! As soon as I have time I will try this. Im big into 3d cad and 3d printers so this is right up my alley. Shake the future indeed!
If you wish to get higher temps, you could also get a commercial 2000W microwave, which usually don't have a rotating plate in the bottom, as they use a rotating waveguide instead.
I use a 28L microwave...it's sometimes advertised as 30l, but I believe it's actually a 28l. It's 900w microwave. 800w will work, but if you can get a more powerful microwave, it's even better. I actually bough a second 30L 1000w microwave. For EU viewers it's a "Jocel JMO011442". I am supposed to get it today, so I don't know how good it is yet. The microwave in the video is a "Severin mw 7873".....another model that seems to be similar is "Severin MW 7772". If you are planning to use the microwave to burn out molds in a microwave kiln, get an analog microwave. Don't get a digital, because you won't be able to control it with a interval timer like I do. If you are only interested in melting metals, then it does not matter - digital is fine. Aluminium is fast. 100g of aluminium will melt in 7 - 12 minutes on average....of course it depends on many factors - crucible size, chamber, power of the microwave etc. The egg cup was 3D printed in PLA and burned out in my microwave kiln. I normally use Plaster of Paris+sand. It's a Plaster of Paris from a dental shop. Thanks for watching and welcome to the community! Denny
I'm a little intimidated but impressed. Long time ago I took a centrifugal lost wax casting class and was impressed you accomplished your egg cup casting with just venting thoroughly. It must also be very helpful to have that 3D wax modeling setup to make rhe best quality molds. But with all of your genius, I had a granny who dropped out of school during The Depression to work to eat... She could make perfect soft boiled eggs all day long and the top pulled off perfectly. I still remember how yummy it was. And how I didn't recognize her skills around the house like I should have. Weird what videos can remind you of. Anyway, as others have pointed out: You are next level analytical. You should send your videos to NASA and apply. When we cancel Space X and Shutter Space Farce, NASA will be restored. Peace with Russia is only possible using space programs openly and kindly. Space programs need men of your abilities. Stay safe. Practice best cautions.
Glad i found by hazard your video , my brother is a caster of gold and stainless , he use induction melter Inductotherm. Your technic is really impressive.
Thank you very much. Please inform me how many times will a microwave oven melt 500 grams of glass in a silicone carbide crucible approximately? I hope you can make more experiments.
Your explanations and reminders to focus on details are well delivered...Your very pronounced, (I want to say, Slavic) accent and your attention to articulating the delivery makes this video interesting to watch and experience. Do you suppose it's the aging magnet that effects the degradation of the magnetron as it ages? Speaking of which, I have a couple stacks of radar ranges I need to go part out for...the magnets! And transformers...and fans...and sheet metal...and rotisserie motors...AC cords, Diodes, Capacitors, hardware and occasionally the glass dish and light bulb.
You could use boron nitride as a layer between the crucible and the base. You can also keep separated molten metals from the crucible itself if you put enough inside.
I actually do have boron nitride. I have used it to stop fused glass to sticking to the mold. I never tried to use it for anything else. Thanks for the tip.
@@ShakeTheFuture when I worked at Brembo where they make ceramic brakes, we used to paint the whole graphite or carbon fiber crucible with boron nitride, then we put graphite paper inside which absorbed some of the molten silicon. I remember a small experiment they tried and it worked but they never made it functional later, probably because it costs too much: an engineer came on day with a small crucible made of sintered boron nitride. It's more fragile than graphite but it didn't absorb molten silicon at all and it didn't stick to the crucible neither. It came out easily and the crucible was clear as new. I'm not sure but molten metals should be even easier to melt in a boron nitride crucible, it's just too fragile.
This gives me an idea. Make a long SiC cylinder open at both ends. (It could be open at one end but both is easier. Make an extention out of plastic or paperbor cardboard or find a can thats the right size or make the cylinder the right sise so that something you have is the right size. Wrap it all in the ceramic insulator. Get some fire brick and make a shelf about 1/3 from the bottom of the tube. Make an end cap for one end. Now you have this insulate tube with one end recesed down inside. Drill a tiny pinhole in one end of the microwave. You coild pont the open end at the door, but you probanly want it longer. So drill.a tiny pinhole in the suee of the microwave. It will be vastly smaller than the wavelength of the microwaves, so they cant escape. But lihht and infrared will. Focus your pin hole camera on a noncontact themometer that has the capability to be read by a computer. If you vant find one, you can hack a raspbery pi pico to read thr segments on a cheap harbor freight one. You will bypass the controller board and have the raspbery pi , with proper interfacing, turn the magnetron on and off. So, the microcontroller will monitor the temperature, and turn the magnetron on and off to maintain it at the preset level. You now have a high temperature oven for heat treating small parts. If your realy adventureous, you could go so far as cutting a circular hole on the side of the microwave about a inch smalller than the bore of your tube. Then get steel tube the size of the bore and a tapered die with a hole for a bolt. Use that bolt to pull it through the die and firm a ridge on your hole. Make a tight fitting metal plug. With a nice lip that goes over yotr ridge and add some copper or brass "fronds" that will butt up afainst a copper ring that you attach around the ridge on the hole. It shoild sit flush on the inside of the microwave. Add a ground strap from the plug to the chassis of the microwave. Attack a disk of insulator to the plug so that it will protect it from the heat. Then drill pethaps a 1/8" or so hole. The a tiny pinhole in the plug. The plug must be made out of sheet metal. You could weld a piece to a premade tube or find something that was about the right dimensions and then make the hole and its lip to fit. If take a pair of tubes, on the right OD to snugky fit unside the hole i made, and one the right ID to go over it. Id cut thrm to length, put yhem in place and tack weld them. Then weld that top seam. Then id put them over a hard metal cylinder and starting a quarter inch from the end of the tube start closing the end. Just keep backing the cylinder out, and hammering over the edge, planishing with the hammer snd annealing with the torch as needed until the end is closed. The just weld the center hole, and planish and sand it smoth and then drill your pinhole. But there ny ways to fab the cap. If your super paranoid you can check with a mixrowave leskage netrr like shown. With that you should be able to more fully use the entire microwave. Other ideas come to mind likeaning the shelf removable and making a removable firebrick "stand" that you could it sit a nonconductive crucible on. Then mount the mixrowave on a pivot ao you can use it in a horizontal or vertical configuration. Horizontal for heat treating. Vertical for sitting a nonconsuctive crucible inside and melting metal.
*Iron Knife made with a Microwave:* th-cam.com/video/lX3-D29QndM/w-d-xo.html
I am very impressed with all you presented here, especially the notes a couple times about safety, primarily around breathing the dust from the ceramic fiber. Please continue to do this yourself and recommend to others on future videos to protect their lungs. This is especially important when handling ceramic fiber after the firing is done. Any cutting, scraping, etc of ceramic fiber which has been subjected to very high temperatures may / probably contains cristobalite, which is a form of silica which is cancerous.
I spend my 40 year career designing, constructing and rebuilding various kilns, lehrs, dryers, ovens for the glass and ceramic industry. Your understanding of basic to advanced heat transfer, high temperature materials and at least the basics of microwave oven operation is awesome. Thankfully, my employer (I have been retired for almost 4 years) allowed me to "Tinker" with various thermal process equipment types, mostly in non-typical applications of thermal energy or energy that would become thermal. That lead me to a few US Patents for the company.
When trying to use a "disposed" or a "disposable" commercial microwave oven for the kind of things you are, you have to understand a few things, most of which you've already covered. But the TH-cam Community out there seems to really soak up not only the content of good videos, but they also seem drawn to read many of the comments / dialog, so here are my thoughts and they are all going to be worth every cent you pay for it. lol.
Everyone freaks over turning on a microwave with nothing on the turn table. The microwaves are contained within the box if you haven't started to tinker with it yet. The typical home microwave is 2.45 GHz. To contain that wavelength within the box, 1/4 wavelength distance is all that you need to "chock" the energy from leaking out. Eventually, some of that microwave energy will bounce off the walls enough to potentially work it's way back thru the "waveguide" and burn up the magnetron.
If you are trying to warm up last night's dinner, the plate might have meat on one side, mashed potatoes on the other and maybe gravy across the entire meal. The ability to accept microwave energy at room temperature for a given material depends on a variety of factors, but mashed potatoes and meat are probably different, as would be the gravy. This is one reason for the turn table that spins the food. I haven't taken a commercial microwave apart recently, but there used to be a spinning disk, called a stirrer at the exit of the waveguide that would "stir" the microwaves as they entered the chamber. The disk was not flat, but might look like an aluminum umbrella that was just shy of 100% open. The microwaves would reflect off this spinning stirrer and distribute the microwave energy more evenly within the box.
The later combination of the stirrer and the turntable resulted in much better / even heating. So turning the microwave oven on it's side may result in the bearings for the motor driving the stirrer to fail. There were safeguards in place that if the stirrer was not spinning, the magnetron would shut off. So that may be more of the issue than the magnetron.
Like I said, different materials heat in different ways in a microwave field. Most of the microwave properties change as the temperature goes up. Ceramic Fiber blanket does not heat very much on its own in microwave fields. The higher the alumina content, the more "transparent" it is to heating by microwave energy alone. But if you were to put your SiC crucible in the microwave without it, you would quickly see a bright glow then a melt down of your microwave.
This is because the SiC heats up easily and starts to radiate the thermal energy to it's surroundings which would be the inside of the microwave. Putting the crucible inside the ceramic fiber blanket contains the thermal energy created by the microwave energy because the ceramic fiber blanket has a very low thermal conductivity. There are several companies which make the ceramic fiber blanket that also make ceramic fiber board material. So, in theory, if you got high alumina fiber board, you could fabricate a 6 sided box on it's side, with an end panel you could pop off when you open the door, you could more easily get to your crucible or whatever you are trying to heat with microwave energy. Having some distance between the crucible and the ceramic fiber board walls would allow radiation of thermal energy from the crucible to the walls and back to the cooler areas of the crucible. Thermal energy always goes from hot to cold.
Follow good sound safety practices dealing with ceramic fiber, high temperature materials / burn potential, as well as a good way to kill the power very quickly to the mw oven and extinguish flames properly. Don't do this stuff in your kitchen! Best if done in a workshop without combustible materials around. Dumb people make dumb mistakes. Smart people burn their houses down because they think they are so smart. don't do that! If you do, you are on your own.
Have safe fun, learn new things and share what you learn!
This is fantastic information for anyone who will be actually trying this out. The comment should be pinned.
(If it’s too long to read, then maybe don’t try this at home;)
Edit for typo
Like I said in my other comment, I'm a total noob, but I have a question.
_"So, in theory, if you got high alumina fiber board, you could fabricate a 6 sided box on it's side"_
Why high alumina? You said in the previous paragraph that is makes the insulation layer less transparent to microwaves. Don't you want it _more_ transparent, so more of the microwave energy reaches the crucible?
Thanks for the detailed information. You're right, people do read the comments because they sometimes contain expert opinions that add a lot to the already great video content.
@@Bonez0ryes, you are right, I should have proof read what I said. It is corrected now. Thanks!
Thank You very much for taking the time to leave the comment and share your knowledge. I really appreciate it!
@@ShakeTheFuture I don't know what your background is, but whatever drives your curiosity and more importantly, your sharing of what works (and why) as well as what doesn't (and why) is very impressive. It would be great having a beer, a glass of wine or sipping on a good bourbon with you and chatting!
I think concerning microwave heating in a commercial microwave oven, folks need to understand is why you have to worry about the ceramic fiber in the first place. The commercial microwave oven is not designed to contain the thermal energy it can generate if the material you put into it can "couple" into the microwave energy. For instance, if you want to heat a cup of water for tea, you can generally put cold tap water in a glass cup / mug and place in a commercial microwave oven for 2 minutes and you can have tea after it has steeped for some time.
But some of my mugs in my cupboard, if I fill with cold tap water and put it into the same microwave oven for 2 minutes, I need to use a pot holder to retrieve it and I find that even though the mug is extremely hot, the water is luke warm at best. This is because of the materials used in the mug interact with the microwave energy, leaving less microwave energy to reach the water. The water increases in temperature in two ways. One being thermal conduction with the inside of the mug which is hotter than the water, and the other is a small amount of the microwave energy found it's way to the water. Remember that microwave energy will bounce around in the microwave oven containment, so some will eventually find the top of the mug and find the water. Without getting into all the theory of microwave energy, suffice it to say that as it bounces around, the ability to "couple" drops off significantly. Otherwise, as soon as we reached in to get our cup of hot water, our hand would instantly heat.
But much like the ceramic mug I need a pot holder to grab onto heats in a microwave field, some materials really heat in that environment. Various grades of Silicon Carbide heat very nicely, depending on a variety of factors. So a cup made of Silicon Carbide will heat water very effectively, maybe violently if left in the microwave field long enough. This is where you have to look at the other parts of the environment the object being heated is exposed to.
Assume that the SiC object is a round ball. If you place this in the microwave field, it will start heating up "volumetrically". Then, the outside surface of the ball becomes hot enough to lose thermal energy to the inside of the microwave oven. As more microwave energy is applied, the energy goes into the ball, but the thermal energy on the inside builds up in the form of temperature, and the outside of the ball loses more and more thermal energy, thus dropping the temperature of the surface of the ball. In most materials, the hotter the material gets, the easier it is for the microwave to "couple". This can easily result in a thermal runaway, something you really want to avoid!
This is why the Silicon Carbide crucible is either wrapped in ceramic fiber or placed in a ceramic fiber (blanket or board) container. Because the thermal conductivity of the ceramic fiber board (or blanket) is so low, the SiC crucible starts to heat in the microwave environment, then wants to radiate thermal energy to the surroundings. The inside surface of the ceramic fiber receives the thermal energy, begins to glow in it's internal surface, but can't easily conduct the thermal energy to the outside of the ceramic fiber board (or blanket). Therefore, little microwave energy is "lost" to the thermal containment, and more is used to heat the crucible.
The challenge is how to repeatably control the results of your efforts. In a conventional kiln, a control thermocouple in the air measures the thermal energy applied to the environment and a controller compares that temperature with a recipe of time versus temperature and applies more or less thermal energy to the kiln. If you want precise repeatability, if you can place the thermocouple right in contact with the part, that is best. But experience typically tells us that this may damage the surface of the part you are trying to thermally process. If you put two parts in the center of your kiln and measure the surface temperature of one that will be thrown away, then you might have one good one. That is, if you know the nature of the material you are heating. Some materials exhibit certain reactions within the materials, such as exothermic or endothermic reactions which can result in a career of chasing these reactions with various techniques (and maybe some interesting patent applications :-) ).
I hope this confirms some of the experiences that you may have stumbled on or matches that which you've planned on. It seems like you and your followers tend to be more interested in melting / remelting various metals in a crucible. The challenges you probably have is managing the thermal losses thru the bottom of the crucible, which is in direct contact with the bottom of the thermal container. Balancing the desire to minimize the thermal contact between the bottom of the crucible and the stability of the crucible itself so that the melted metal doesn't tip over when you open the microwave door is your challenge. ideally, 3 little alumina pyramids holding the crucible up would be best if you could gently open the door latch. Maybe two alumina rods would provide more stability, especially if you could cut a shallow groove in the ceramic board in the bottom of the kiln, minimizing the contact with the board but preventing the rolling.
A further enhancement of this would be to use alumina tubing to minimize the thermal conductivity away from the crucible (which really is your objective, to keep everything you melted, melted!). If you really wanted to get fancy, some alumina kiln component suppliers make a type of roller hearth kiln roller that has a corkscrew type appearance along the OD. This would help minimize the contact with the crucible even more!
All the best to you guys (and gals) trying to exploit the tools that are out there waiting for someone to try. Just think things thru ("thought experiments" is what one senior engineer I worked with in the beginning of my career called them) and try to guess what could go wrong and plan to protect against it or how to put out the fire on the way out! Share your experiences, both good and bad, with like-minded crazy scientists, regardless of yours or their college degree! That is how this crazy world we live in will be able to move forward. Challenge those who say "it can't be done" by proving one of you wrong. But always be safe in what you do, not only keep yourself safe, but show even more concern for others. And have fun doing what you do. Life is too short to spend your career doing boring stuff that doesn't advance the world forward in some way! God bless you all.
John
Thx, people like you keep my belief in humanity not being lost completely 😉
Thank You very much!
I know it’s been a while, but trust me. I had a good reason behind promising this video and not delivering on time.
Better late than never!
This has been a long project….very long. I had this video shot and ready at least 3 times and then I decided to change something….that led to reshooting a big portion of the video.
At the end, all the delays only made this video better.
Ps. I know my face is not super sharp in some parts (focus issues…time to upgrade cameras).
Keep an eye on youtube shorts.
Welcome back. The comments are filled with people really worried about you - glad you're okay!
@@KarpEZ Thanks! I am better than ever.
Please get in touch with me, very important physics discovery im keeping cc nc sa. My about page has contact info.
@@ShakeTheFuturewhat about your electric bill?
Forgot to pin this thread, if you don't pin it only the author(you) will see it on the top, for the rest of us it is way down the list of comments.
Oh my god I just spent hundreds of dollars YESTERDAY buying a furnace and a graphite crucible and blow torch and Tongs.... But this method is absolutely amazing...game changer!!!
You my friend deserve the Nobel peace prize and three olympic gold medals for this 😮😮😮
Thank You! I am glad you found it useful. Those metal melting furnaces are great and easy to use. It's a good buy 👍
I actually watched the second video on microwave melting first, but I'm highly impressed with the technique and the narration that explains it.
*_I was there Denny, 3000 years ago, when you made a bottle cutter._* With your video, I made a one as well and after that I watched every one of your videos. In my opinion you are one of the unique creators.
Amount of work and effort behinds this progress is really remarkable. I hope you get more than enough interaction. And please keep them coming.
Oh, yes indeed. It feels like ages ago. Thank you for the kind words.
I'm sure.
All of this, shows how knowledge dispels the need for bravery. There's no way I would nave considered smelting metal in a microwave, until this very smart and well read young man demonstrated how it could be done,
Curious people that change the perspective create great progress. You have done that for sure.
Thank you for showing others the way.
Thank You Carl for taking time to comment! I really appreciate the kind words!
Manufacturers: Do not put metal into the microwave
Shake the Future: I am become microwave blacksmith
that mold design trick with the allen key loosening it is GENIUS!!!!
Thanks!
I know right that's extremely divergent thinking.
Too bad i dont have the right size wrench, Oh well some pliers handled the job Just fine
Wow. This seems like a very effective low-budged method for melting and casting method. I like how well you explained everything in detail so it is repeatable easily. Good video. Thanks👍
Thank You very much!
Meanwhile back in the kitchen, I'm halfway through melting some brass, when I hear the cry 'Hi honey, I'm home.' Oh Shiiiii it's the mrs... Followed by 'Why is the microwave on it's side?' Time to run! 😂😂😂
That's why you should get a dedicated microwave for metal melting 😃
Highly underated comment. Made me laugh. Lol
Story of my life!)))
Our sweethearts just don't understand "ya gotta do what ya gotta do!" 😂
We all gotta get by somehow ok! 😭😭😂😂
I was watching an interesting video when my 9mo woke up and kicked the smartphone out of my hand. When I picked it up this video was playing. It's absolutely true what they say... Children are a blessing 😂😇
I have wanted to get into metal casting for so long and suddenly you have created a path for me to do so.
Often when I try to develop a new "youtube skill" I watch several videos...and very often end up frustrated. You present the material wonderfully, with caveats, "gotchas", and "dont worries", better and worse, and remiders that skills take practice. New subscriber, immediate big fan. Keep up the good work, and cheers!
That 3D-printed crucible making jig is awesome! Using an allen key to twist the inner part to get it out is brilliant!
Thanks!
Thank you very much Tracey, I appreciate it!
Awesome! This video will finalize my divorce:)
There I was, on a slow Sunday afternoon. Scrolling through the TH-cam feed when suddenly I found it. And it changed my life forever.
I am glad you found the video....or the video found you.
Thanks for watching!
Came across this video by accident, and it's exactly what I didn't know I've been looking for, for years. I particularly liked your method of crucible manufacture. Always assumed I'd need sintering temps to make one but the sodium silicate method is inspired.
Once the garage is tidied, there may be a corner for this.
Instant subscribe. Thank you.
same! haha. instant sub here :)
A suggestion for the folks who want to melt metal in a crucible and finding that the discarded microwave ovens don’t have enough power or you don’t want to mess wither the health dangers of ceramic fiber, look into induction heating! Just take off your wedding bands! Induction may get you melting quicker and consistent results! Just a thought
Stuck in an appartment, with very small space (16m²) and not having my workshop anymore, I think i'll go for this method. thanks for all the details and explanations, very good work and video editing. Inspiring
Thank You! I am also living in an apartment and doing the metal casting on my balcony.
Keep your place well ventilated or do your stuff on balcony. Otherwise you are poisoning your home and with that yourself and those around you ... Speaking of people around you make sure that no other neighbor or their clothing is right next to you when you do this even outside.
@@minmogrovingstrongandhealthy I agree, we never know what elements residues are into the metals we melt. I'm quite sensitive to this question as i'm convinced my father developped his autoimmune diseased before passing away because of all the jobs he did in his life and the various hazard risks he met. From working in a chromatation company with those hot bath evaporating chrome all around, to the building industry and its well known silicosis related problem. Without telling he also practiced mechanics and motor repairing all his life too, hands in various grease and synthetic oils, benzens derivatives, whitespirit, acetone... And never wearing a damn pair of gloves nor a mask. So, safety is always my first concern. I don't wanna die at 63 like him just after being retired. Stay safe !
@@OktoPutsch A friend's father died this year, so as my uncle, they were metal workers and were always stubborn never used protection, they suffered for 15 years and as a final ended their life from lung cancer.
It's really common sense, melting anything causes fumes and when you inhale those they stack up into your organism causing problems.
I have problems with few neighbors who burn plastic but even if not that people today in general use ANYTHING that their materials are harmful, they fall apart easier then before and create dust, that dust is picked up by the wind and taken places, I have today more problems with allergies then ever because people burn and use all sorts of garbage around me that causes harm to everyone.
When you get sick it's too late to complain ... you have to prevent it by using common sense , sadly seem like plenty of people lack in this basic brain feature today ...
Each generation seem to be stupider then the previous ...
❤Finally a genius showed us the way to do it in a microwave. This is the future never did I think that was possible. I thought this video was going to show a guy exploding metals in a microwave. I was like no way that is not possible that's crazy until i've seen the video Good job my fellow russian
Thanks! I am glad you found it interesting. I am Latvian btw. 😃
The kiln wash is a also good idea because it helps keep those kaowool fibers from becoming breathed in.
Indeed!
Thanks!
Also keeps all the fibers from being knocked off the wool. So I hear.
Loved the thorough and concise description. Bravo, on a very professional video.
I will offer one tip on working with Kaowool - A very light misting with water will significantly reduce airborne fibers. Add a drop of dish soap to make the water wetter, and mist the work surface. Also never vacuum the debris from trimming, use a wet rag. Safe pathes.
Great tip!
Thanks Rei!
Instead of kiln wash, I would personally use refractory cement. Mix it thin and paint it on in thin coats. It'll soak into the surface fiber and when it cures stiffen the surface of the platform. Doing so removes the risk of the crucible sticking and makes for a more sturdy platform.
Thanks for the tip.
Thanks
After watching this video TH-cam recommend another video with microwave experiments. In that video a microwave is tested for the heating pattern then disassembled and used with only the wave guide attached and the heating pattern tested again. The heating directly in front of the wave guide is much more concentrated. I think if you built a custom enclosure with the wave guide pointed directly at the kiln and crucible it would probably work much faster and perhaps allow using a larger crucible and volume of metals. I would like to try exactly this with a custom enclosure with vacuum or purged with Argon gas.
Interesting!
There is definitely space for optimization.
I have noticed myself that heating a cup of coffee is faster if it's closer to the waveguide. So there can be a difference between using microwave as intended, flipping it on the side or placing the chamber closer to the magnetron.
Cheers!
Thank you for explaining it so well. Some of these people don't explain things well enough. Some of the things that you showed I had never even heard of. Like the ceramic fiber. Thank you again for the video.
I am glad you found it useful!
Thanks Tom!
Came upon by chance. And this IS the most freakin' amazing DIY I've seen on Utube or anywhere, EVER!
Thanks very much STF for this incredible and inspiring lesson. I'm a machinist and mechatronics maker and I doubt I will ever need these skills and knowledge. But if I do, then I know where to come.
I like the way you do it man. Keep on!
Thank You very much! Feedback like yours is like🚀 fuel . Thanks you for taking time to leave a comment 👍👍😊
Really great stuff! I've been able to duplicate most of it! I do want to caution you about burning Kapton (or other fluorinated high temp plastics/tapes) VERY toxic vapors - easily kill birds for example - best recommendation: Don't burn it! If there is a risk of burning - Don't do it indoors!
I believe that heating process after making a crucible is actually sintering the carbide particles together, if what I've read is correct, silicon carbide sinters at around 1500°F and when it glows its usually around 1800-3000°F.
Like others are saying essentially, you are my hero for the day! Someone doing the good work of science without all the extra theory getting in the way of invention. I now have more uses for found microwaves than scrapping for transformers and whatnot👍🏻
I'm also now kicking myself for not grabbing this giant microwave that was in the dump. That microwave was nearly the size of an oven!
Thank you!
I'm glad you found it useful.
The great thing about used microwaves is that you can get them for free or at a very low cost.
Sometimes people sell (or dispose of) microwaves that don't look great from the inside, with issues like rust or yellowing.
They may not be visually appealing for heating up food, so most people don't want those microwaves... except for the microwave metal melting community 😃
FINALLY; the video is out... massively impressed by your prior: I had had so wanted to give it a go.... But upon your personal intervention stating that I had best wait and that it would be so worth it: I have waited.
Now I am so eagerly going to watch through with initially great expectations due to how considerable attention to detail you have to date presented.
EDIT: Just watched it and I have to admit that I liked the complexity of your earlier project a little more for some reason. So such: I had to force my superficial appreciation aside to fully note down the very hard work you have put in simplifying and optimizing the whole process.
As you yourself have stated: This project can be completed within an hour or two. And this is so absurd for anyone that has done metal casting.... It is so difficult to fathom that such a short time would be sufficient to get you up and running with literally everything you need made from scratch (Save the microwave).
We all owe this ridiculous short time to get up and running to your persistent tests you have to date gone through and shared; basically so we do not have to.
I encourage everyone to watch and follow up on your channel. Your efforts to deliver are not easy to be paralleled.
Thank you SO MUCH for all of this and even going the extra mile to warn us to not invest on an older version that since it is as a result outdated...
And I am SO GLAD that you seem to be fine. I had had gotten worried.
Thank You very much for the kind words.
It's very nice to read comments like yours.
It took me 3-4 days using the previous method (well, not working all day long). Denny says he is not the good example for reference...It hides a lot of practice. But I would say a 10% time efficiency and 98% result efficiency is reasonable. We are not at Olympic games!
The long wait is over.🎉
Yes, indeed. I don't know who is more relieved...me or the viewers 😄
@@ShakeTheFuture I had actually forgotten. But thanks algorithm.. 😂
@@ShakeTheFuture د
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Your icon...
Thank you, highly informative and sharing a non-trivial experience.
A quick question if you don't mind: what is the grit that one should use for forming the crucible/heating rings?
I find silicon carbide for sale around here in two major classes: abrasive powders (in 500g as the maximal packaging) and sandblasting (in 20kg+). Obviously, the latter is a lot cheaper per weight, but the finest grit I could find around is 36-40. Would it be appropriate? If not, how fine I should go? Or should I look for other (than abrasive) types of SC?
Thank You very much! That's very kind of you. I can never remember the grit size charts/numbers etc. I just always refer to grit as coarse/medium/fine/powder. I usually use medium or fine grit. I buy silicon carbide in 25kg bags from a sandblasting store myself. Here is a copy-paste info about the exact grit size I bought the last time.
"25kg Silicon Carbide SIC FEPA 220 (44 - 75 µm)"
Cheers!
This is a great video. The amount of detailed information you have included is very much appreciated. You also did an excellent job at ensuring that the content is finely pointed towards your target demographic (the at home DIY-er).This really is the ultimate guide.
I have no idea how anyone found out you can do this but it's a fantastic quick method for melting small quantities of various metals.
I'm totally amazed you can melt stainless steels, they require a LOT of heat!
I've had an idea needing a small copper casting but haven't wanted to build a full on foundry for a small 'experiment', this may well make it probablity!
Thank you for posting, great explanations.
I'm going to check out a few more of your video's.
Thanks!
I am glad you found it interesting!
This is one of the greatest maker type videos i have seen so far! I have just subscribed to your channel, thank you for sharing all of your experiences!
Wow you really understand what you're doing from the start to the end. Every part of the process you understand the mechanics and physics behind it. Admirable!
Water glass (sodium silicate) can be hardened in several ways. Exposure to carbon dioxide will harden it, either by absorbing the gas from the air or by deliberately gassing. That is the way I harden my sand cores for metal casting. I will try that when I make a crucible.
That's great Jim!
Thanks for sharing!
Wow. I mean wow. Newly learning to melt metal and such. Gorgeous egg cup. Your video doesn't highlight it's beauty.
Great info. Subbed! I'm using a mw to melt silver. Silver in molten state is a sponge to oxygen. If you pore it in a mold and cools down the oxygen is fissing out like a carbonated drink. So i'm using graphite crucibles and carbon to create a reducing atmosphere.
So using just a graphite crucible is just fine? Was wondering if it really had to be made from silicon carbide, because those seem to be hard to come by. Or am I missing something?
@@RogerJonker oh, nice, I'll definitely take a look. I also commented too soon, didn't even see he made the crucibles himself yet. But the graphite crucibles you can buy seem to also have some silicon carbide in them, or at least some of them do
That's very interesting Roger! Thanks!
Glad to see you back
Me too, Thanks for watching!
Great vid! Safety concerns are very real with the dust. I’m now imagining a bar graph showing the actual respirators people who try this use! Drager industrial respirator; hardware store bought N95 respirator; dust mask; I’ll-fitting respirator of any kind; no respirator!
Love the video!
I've been going down my own experiments trying to make a kiln hot enough to make synthetic corundum. I had arrived at a similar mold making technique as you using a basic 3D printed form made from water glass and silicon carbide. Mine are just much smaller (~20mm in diameter). I've also been using firebrick so it can withstand the higher temps, although I've melted through several different types. I end up getting hot enough to melt the crucible itself so I plan on trying commercially available silicon carbide crucibles that also use some graphite to get to higher temps. I have managed to get some material hot enough to fluoresce under UV but it never enough to form a chunk of solid corundum like I want.
Just wanted to thank you for all of the knowledge and inspiration and to share my small journey with you.
Thank You Eric. It's very interesting what you are doing. Cheers!
Have you tried an arc furnance or welding machine with carbon rods? There's a few videos on YT about making synthetic rubies utilizing this method.
obvious offtopic, but it's being less than 2 minutes into video and i already admire your editing skills
Very interesting, first time hearing about this but now I really want to try this.
A thought that came to me right now: instead of building a chamber for the crucible, couldn't you just insulate the whole inside of the microwave, including the inside of the door? That way you could maybe fit a bigger crucible inside (if you really wanted) and it might also be more convenient to use. Just a suggestion, maybe something worth a try though. I'm really interested in what points would speak against doing this.
Yes, it's definitely possible. The setup I use works for me because I can use the same microwave for various purposes. First I use a microwave kiln to burn out molds, then melt metal in the same microwave, but different chamber. It really depends on individual needs. There could be an issue if you want to melt more metals in a row. With the chamber setup you can remove the heat source from the microwave and use another chamber to do more metal melting. If the microwave is insulated and the hot ceramic fiber can't be removed, then there is a potential of the microwave to overheat. When microwave overheats it just turns off. There are thermal switches that cut the power. Then you need to wait until the microwave cools down enough to start working again. So, yeah it's definitely an option. It really depends on how are you planning to use the microwave. Thanks!
0:27 Did he say “crack pipe pencil core?” 😂
DUDE!! I've been waiting for this video. I'm glad you're okay. I got worried
Thank You Tony!
When i was young they said "never put metal in the microwave you will destroy it !", 2023 "let's put metal in microwave and melt it" ... really nice video, thank you :)
If I remember correctly from my material science class, water glass is called that because it's a glass forced into a liquid state at room temp (I've heard you liquify glass with an acid and then neutralize the acid?), it wants to crystallize but it can't without a nucleation site, as soon as you introduce a nucleation site like a grain of sand it will rapidly crystallize,
I used it for lost wax investment casting precious metals
Waterglass is sodium silicate
You can make it by mixing silica gel and sodium hydroxide
Interesting. I wish I could remember anything from science class 😂
You are a god damn god among men! A genius!
This is knowledge i dont know how i could live without. And it just so happens i have a spare micro wave lying around. :)
Thanks You!
It's so nice to see you back at it again.
I know this is a simplified version but I can't help but to wonder if you've tried making a version with a lip & groove feature to better seal the base and top. Just a small woolly protrusion from the bottom that fits inside the top. That way you don't have to bother with sanding as much.
Yes, I have tried something similar. There are definitely many ways to approach this project. I don't mind sanding because it's very quick. The glass once sanded will last "forever" and sanding the chamber/base only takes minutes. Thanks!
It's not often that I only partially watch a video before I like it and sub to the channel. (Of course I then finished the video!)
There are very few creators that break down a process as well as you just did. I also appreciate the explanation of WHY each step is important; and what to expect if a step is skipped, or done incorrectly.
I apprenticed silversmithing for a year before the workshop I was at closed. It's since been something I would have loved to continue as a hobby, but the equipment cost was prohibitive. Looking forward to trying this out soon!
Interesting video. I definitely give this a try, even though I don't like ceramic wool. It's expensive and very difficult to buy where I live.
I have made several different electric melting furnaces, usually using insulating fire bricks. I have one where I can use vacuum or argon. It uses flat kanthal strip which covers about 80% of inner surface. I 3d printed the internal mould which had grooves for wire. Then I covered it with clay based refactory mass which can take 1500C, let it dry and burned the mould away. That one is put inside a 20l steel pot and insulated with ceramic wool. It takes 1l crusible.
I can use it for aluminium or brass, but with cast iron, there's risk of melting the wire.
This microwave method sounds good for small amounts and can propably produce very low hydrogen contamination aluminium. To make this even better, it should be possible to put crucible into container, tape top and bottom together, leaving only small hole. Then put it into vacuum chamber and after air is being sucked off, fill it with argon and then put into microwave. Argon improves greatly wool insulation capability. It also prevents oxidation.
So far I have used tig and small crucible to melt small amounts of cast iron and stainless steel. I use tungsten rods as positive and negative and pass argon directly to the crusible.
That's some interesting info you shared. Thank You!
What an outstanding video! Full of good tried stuff. I'm trying it.. Comments so far.. If you are melting Iron or steel, Ware Cotton or wool. (Iron bounces off skin). Everything else, Armor UP!! No polyester!!. Especially melting aluminum. It takes more heat to melt than iron, even at the lower temp melt point, and non ferris metal STICKS to skin!! (from personal experience) Looking for pliers while your skin boils away takes the fun out of a project. Don't work over cement or damp ground. On printing the mold parts, on the center cup, make sure the center cup hex hole is down, and, the ridge holding the cap easily comes off, I used PLA and it needed higher temps to keep fine parts from coming off and haven't quite got it right. I would be interested in a video on your egg cup in detail especially the burn out you use for your plaster investment. All that fine detail came out on the cast! Thanks for excellent work!
Thank You for amazing tips!
I did not record a long format video of the egg cup, but I might re-shoot it, since more people are showing interest in it.
Cheers!
This video is very well done. One of the best I have seen. BTW I've built my first chamber and, after five tries, I made my first crucible. I gotta ask ... are you using the household vacuum cleaner as a way to pull a vacuum on the plaster mold? True or not it made my day because I had never thought of dong that.
I've just bought a 3d printer and am just discovering the huge potential of what it can do and now you're telling me I can make those parts out of metal in my kitchen? Holy cow, get me a microwave!
Yes, but kitchen maybe is not the best place....even though I did it myself when I just started 😂
Cost breakdown from the materials list provided ends up around 130-140 bucks. About the same price as small propane furnace. I guess the benefits that really stand out are not having to buy propane, not having to deal with flammable gasses, and small form factor. Great project!
Yes, it's not super cheap if you only want to make one chamber/base/crucible. However, I can make 2-4 different sized chambers and a large microwave kiln from one roll of ceramic fiber. I buy silicon carbide in bulk (25kg bags), and the cost of one crucible is under 1 euro. I do understand that not a lot of people will spend 100 euros on silicon carbide, and they will buy smaller amounts. I had to do it because of all the experimenting I did.
Thanks!
Thank You very much! That's very kind of you.
Look who came back from the dead
It does feel like it. It's been a long time.
there are also ready made microwave ceramic kilns in ceramic shops. made from some sort of light stone material and graphite inside layer. so you could use a graphite crucible inside the stone kiln chamber for melting metals. you can even make the graphite crucible by carbonizing wood or bread, into shape.
How would that work with bread? Bread is a foam. Will foamy graphite work as crucible? I would expect it to be quite fragile.
actually some dude on youtube (AvE about 6 years ago) tested a carbonized bread furnace, works fine, its quite rigid too, opposite of fragile, hard like coal.@@fredericapanon207
I think a microwave would be a nice fire starter for coal, gets it to the self-sustaining temp fast, like induction stoves@@fredericapanon207
nice idea mate!@@fredericapanon207
well also depends on what kind of bread/putty you make the carbon fiber from, it can become dusty graphite or rigid coal-like stone form@@fredericapanon207
never use the microwave for food after this. keep it only for this
Will someone end up like Joe Biden if they use it to cook afterwards?
Why?
@@themonkeydrunken because all the microwave incl. the air circulation mechanisms would be contaminated with the particles of this material.
This really is an ultimate guide. I thought it might be closer to clickbait than it actually was. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.
Thanks for watching! 👍
This is one of my all time favourite videos on TH-cam xx I shall be watching this many times xx
Another comment session. Silicone carbide mixing with water glass is easy if done in a zip lock heavy bag. The amounts should be as described in the video. Too much glass is a mess which slowly droops into a pile. I made a crucible that looks like a Styrofoam cup to allow separating the mold from crucible easily. If you line the mold with packing tape, both inner and outer, the carbide won't stick and won't crack getting the crucible free from the molds, inner first and outer last. Make sure your 3d printer is in top shape, no cracks in the extruder, filament is calibrated and printing surface is washed with "Dawn power wash" dish detergent to remove all grease. Carbide will stay ready for use lasting weeks unhardened if sealed in zip lock plastic bags if squeezing most air out before sealing. If your crucible cracks while unmolding, break the carbide into a powder quickly so making another try before it hardens. I use a mallet to pack carbide into the mold into a solid mass.
Thank You for sharing your experience Greg! 👍
Great Video ! I have watched a few others you have done - also great. Was initially surprised that using a microwave oven was even possible for melting metals. I wonder how many people like me have just heard "don't put metal in a microwave oven" without really understanding the physics behind it.
Thanks! Indeed, generally speaking, metal should not go in the microwave... but yes, there are exceptions when it's okay.
wow as soon as i start thinking about metal casting the algorithm just gives me the OMEGA MEGA TUTORIAL!!!1 this is amazing💯
Thanks for watching!
wow... simply wow... the amount of potential ability locked within our everyday world. this was my first experience for your channel... wow
Thank You!
I am glad you enjoyed!
Wow what a great introduction to melting all kinds of metals. 100% will watch this again before I start melting aluminum ❤
Glad you enjoyed it
If I can give a suggestion, buy a piece of kiln brick and put a disc of it in the bottom of the base. Alumina should be okay in the microwave. It doesn't stick, nor crack or sink and will serve as a solid table inside
Thanks!
I might try it out.
I was watching with a high degree of focus... grumpy frown and all... being fascinated. Then you smashed the egg and I lost it 😂😂
Thanks! Liked and subscribed!
Awesome way to make a crucible with the water glass, also I didn't know you could colour water glass with simple food dye. That will definitely come in handy. Ty for sharing 👍
Oh and that printed mould is brilliant! I'll give it a try I think 👍thanks again
I have quite a few microwave kilns and a stack of microwaves😂 it always helps if you can add extra cooling around the winding since every microwave I've killed has died from excessive heat in the coil
..... This is far better than the microwave crucibles I made in college. Good job.
That's interesting. Good for you. I wish we did something like that back when I was in college/Highschool.
The only memories I have from high school "DIY" class it that teacher made us make things with dull tools.
I remember this one time we had to make a piece of metal sharp with a dull file.
That was not fun. Instead of making me fall in Love with DIY, I did not enjoy it.
I started to carry my own sandpaper in the bag, just in case we need to sand something and the teacher gives us a cloth that once was a sandpaper 😀
I don't blame the teacher, I guess the school did not have money to spend on better tools.
@@ShakeTheFuture I was interested in a low cost foundry for making materials and used what I could find for mostly free. Used magnetite and clay as a crucible, firebrick for the insulation, and held it together. All of it had some suceptibillity to the microwaves; so it was not efficent and often overheated the microwave. I didnt any tutorials, and actually should have done a bit more research. I was an undergrad looking into material science and made some janky zno / tio2 photocatalysts -- not so much for metals.
Great build quality you did, better entry level than what i threw together back then
@@smellslikeupdog80 Awesome!
Awesome "Everything a beginner needs to know guide" to microkilns!! You make it look so.....do-able! Thank you!
Nice guide. I tried it. I even used the 3D form. It works fine but some parts are more or less expandable. I'm having only trouble with crucibles. I used F1000 silicon carbide and the crucible becomes foamy due to the chemical reaction when it cures on air. It cures fine in the oven except the bottom always bulges in and halves the volume of the crucible. Also it has tendency to crack at the place where external connection of the form used to be. I have found in old video that I should use F80. In new video author says "powder like".
Hi Denny! I have waited for this announced video for half year. Your entire job is absolutely marvellous! I have followed your previous tutorial with notable results. Even tried some developments: wall sanding mesh/net ( which is glass fiber net with silicon carbide particles glued) used as armature for obtaining silicon carbide rings. In final step the ring overall should be self-sustaining as glass fiber melts/"burns" at sintering temperatures and crumbles only by itself. Though, the net allows to use a plastic pipe section or a printed case for shaping the ring and provides support during intermediary phases. Second was to try reduce volumes by making a compound kiln - ceramic wool (wrapped around a glass) - as insulator and shape generator - "frozen" with some water-glass , silicon carbide slurry (some caolin and water-glass in the mixture) in the interior, aluminum oxide slurry (same add-in components) on exterior. About 5-7 mm thick each covering layer. All sintered. Ceramic wool separate cover (topping). Promising! Also trials to obtain silicon carbide or even use as-is (parts of) from cutting /grinding disks made of .... silicon carbide, for stone cutting. I was looking for a reasonable low cost, available SiC, as powder is hard to find. Anyway, all trials were inspired by you and your tutorials- which I have followed successfully. As this is not my main interest, I have let all aside for a while, but I'll be back for sure! Congratulations, you score maximum points for following: innovation/ tutorial/ do's and don'ts/ results/ worktime cut-off/ etc... ! I think your trials are one-of-a-kind on TH-cam -which means most of on-line info in this subject! I can testify your work hides a lot of work, trial and error, improvement and ease of methods. Applications target - successful exquisite home DIY metal casting. Please go on searching and sharing!
Just a guess with that glass/aluminum base device with small kiln in middle. Ruby making? : )
Thank You very much Mihai! It's amazing to receive comments like yours.
Thank You, you made my day! 😊
One of my favorite uses of microwave is using it to heat to heat bearings and such for installation
That's interesting. Thanks for sharing. I'll keep that in mind.
This is actually amazing! Thank you! As soon as I have time I will try this. Im big into 3d cad and 3d printers so this is right up my alley. Shake the future indeed!
If you wish to get higher temps, you could also get a commercial 2000W microwave, which usually don't have a rotating plate in the bottom, as they use a rotating waveguide instead.
the most detailed tutorial. everything in one video. love u.
Thank you! I am glad you found it useful!
This video just kicked out stress out of me...the amount of money I needed to import a mini furnace wasn't ok.. thanks a lot man
I know is all science and practice.. but man.. you made it like Magia.
dude you are alreasy god too my eyes....realy thank you for this video....I was blind and you opened my eyes.....keep on
Thanks for watching Agis!
You are a Talented Engineer and Scientist Thank you for your time posting all this instructive knowledge.
Never thought about melting metal in a microwave. New bucket list item unlocked!
I use a 28L microwave...it's sometimes advertised as 30l, but I believe it's actually a 28l.
It's 900w microwave.
800w will work, but if you can get a more powerful microwave, it's even better.
I actually bough a second 30L 1000w microwave. For EU viewers it's a "Jocel JMO011442".
I am supposed to get it today, so I don't know how good it is yet.
The microwave in the video is a "Severin mw 7873".....another model that seems to be similar is "Severin MW 7772".
If you are planning to use the microwave to burn out molds in a microwave kiln, get an analog microwave. Don't get a digital, because you won't be able to control it with a interval timer like I do.
If you are only interested in melting metals, then it does not matter - digital is fine.
Aluminium is fast. 100g of aluminium will melt in 7 - 12 minutes on average....of course it depends on many factors - crucible size, chamber, power of the microwave etc.
The egg cup was 3D printed in PLA and burned out in my microwave kiln.
I normally use Plaster of Paris+sand. It's a Plaster of Paris from a dental shop.
Thanks for watching and welcome to the community!
Denny
I'm a little intimidated but impressed. Long time ago I took a centrifugal lost wax casting class and was impressed you accomplished your egg cup casting with just venting thoroughly. It must also be very helpful to have that 3D wax modeling setup to make rhe best quality molds. But with all of your genius, I had a granny who dropped out of school during The Depression to work to eat... She could make perfect soft boiled eggs all day long and the top pulled off perfectly. I still remember how yummy it was. And how I didn't recognize her skills around the house like I should have. Weird what videos can remind you of.
Anyway, as others have pointed out: You are next level analytical. You should send your videos to NASA and apply. When we cancel Space X and Shutter Space Farce, NASA will be restored. Peace with Russia is only possible using space programs openly and kindly. Space programs need men of your abilities. Stay safe. Practice best cautions.
Glad i found by hazard your video , my brother is a caster of gold and stainless , he use induction melter Inductotherm. Your technic is really impressive.
Thank you very much.
Please inform me how many times will a microwave oven melt 500 grams of glass in a silicone carbide crucible approximately?
I hope you can make more experiments.
A lot of good information relayed at a rate that allows an individual to absorb it in an applicable way.
How is the cost in ceramic fiber, tape and such vs just building a traditional forge? Is it reusable or does this ruin the fiber?
Wow! I didn't know about this. Now you have got me thinking.... 🙂
Thank you! 👍
Your explanations and reminders to focus on details are well delivered...Your very pronounced, (I want to say, Slavic) accent and your attention to articulating the delivery makes this video interesting to watch and experience.
Do you suppose it's the aging magnet that effects the degradation of the magnetron as it ages?
Speaking of which, I have a couple stacks of radar ranges I need to go part out for...the magnets! And transformers...and fans...and sheet metal...and rotisserie motors...AC cords, Diodes, Capacitors, hardware and occasionally the glass dish and light bulb.
"Whatever you do, it's on you." I love it.
You could use boron nitride as a layer between the crucible and the base. You can also keep separated molten metals from the crucible itself if you put enough inside.
I actually do have boron nitride. I have used it to stop fused glass to sticking to the mold. I never tried to use it for anything else. Thanks for the tip.
@@ShakeTheFuture when I worked at Brembo where they make ceramic brakes, we used to paint the whole graphite or carbon fiber crucible with boron nitride, then we put graphite paper inside which absorbed some of the molten silicon. I remember a small experiment they tried and it worked but they never made it functional later, probably because it costs too much: an engineer came on day with a small crucible made of sintered boron nitride. It's more fragile than graphite but it didn't absorb molten silicon at all and it didn't stick to the crucible neither. It came out easily and the crucible was clear as new. I'm not sure but molten metals should be even easier to melt in a boron nitride crucible, it's just too fragile.
I haven't owned a microwave oven for over a decade but now I'm thinking of getting one!
Wow this really contains a lot of iterations and collected wisdom! Thank you for publishing this!
This gives me an idea. Make a long SiC cylinder open at both ends. (It could be open at one end but both is easier. Make an extention out of plastic or paperbor cardboard or find a can thats the right size or make the cylinder the right sise so that something you have is the right size. Wrap it all in the ceramic insulator. Get some fire brick and make a shelf about 1/3 from the bottom of the tube. Make an end cap for one end. Now you have this insulate tube with one end recesed down inside. Drill a tiny pinhole in one end of the microwave. You coild pont the open end at the door, but you probanly want it longer. So drill.a tiny pinhole in the suee of the microwave. It will be vastly smaller than the wavelength of the microwaves, so they cant escape. But lihht and infrared will. Focus your pin hole camera on a noncontact themometer that has the capability to be read by a computer. If you vant find one, you can hack a raspbery pi pico to read thr segments on a cheap harbor freight one. You will bypass the controller board and have the raspbery pi , with proper interfacing, turn the magnetron on and off. So, the microcontroller will monitor the temperature, and turn the magnetron on and off to maintain it at the preset level. You now have a high temperature oven for heat treating small parts.
If your realy adventureous, you could go so far as cutting a circular hole on the side of the microwave about a inch smalller than the bore of your tube. Then get steel tube the size of the bore and a tapered die with a hole for a bolt. Use that bolt to pull it through the die and firm a ridge on your hole. Make a tight fitting metal plug. With a nice lip that goes over yotr ridge and add some copper or brass "fronds" that will butt up afainst a copper ring that you attach around the ridge on the hole. It shoild sit flush on the inside of the microwave. Add a ground strap from the plug to the chassis of the microwave. Attack a disk of insulator to the plug so that it will protect it from the heat. Then drill pethaps a 1/8" or so hole. The a tiny pinhole in the plug. The plug must be made out of sheet metal. You could weld a piece to a premade tube or find something that was about the right dimensions and then make the hole and its lip to fit. If take a pair of tubes, on the right OD to snugky fit unside the hole i made, and one the right ID to go over it. Id cut thrm to length, put yhem in place and tack weld them. Then weld that top seam. Then id put them over a hard metal cylinder and starting a quarter inch from the end of the tube start closing the end. Just keep backing the cylinder out, and hammering over the edge, planishing with the hammer snd annealing with the torch as needed until the end is closed. The just weld the center hole, and planish and sand it smoth and then drill your pinhole. But there ny ways to fab the cap. If your super paranoid you can check with a mixrowave leskage netrr like shown. With that you should be able to more fully use the entire microwave.
Other ideas come to mind likeaning the shelf removable and making a removable firebrick "stand" that you could it sit a nonconductive crucible on. Then mount the mixrowave on a pivot ao you can use it in a horizontal or vertical configuration. Horizontal for heat treating. Vertical for sitting a nonconsuctive crucible inside and melting metal.