Moai 130 Calibration guide - Version 1

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ส.ค. 2020
  • This is a video of a new format. First time I tried to do it like everyone else and write a script and stick to it. You can see my social anxiety really come out.
    Calibrating SLA printers is usually done from the factory, but for the Moai it has been the holy grail just out of reach for most users.
    I have done a deep dive into the Moai settings and the Cura settings to help get the machine mechanically accurate. Unfortunately, there are some elements that are not hashed out completely.
    Join me in this video where I go over the components that have worked to create a more accurately calibrated result.
    AS A NOTE!! Anyone trying to achieve mechanical calibration for M4 nuts: As far as I can tell this calibration requires you to adjust your the nut size in the file by half a millimeter. The light bleed from the laser seems to cure over the edge by this value.
    If you saw the video and are looking here to see if I talk about my printer modifications I will list them here.
    Before I do. If you liked this, help me out on Patreon. I'm still looking into how I can help the community.
    / cainesarmoury
    PRINT FILE DOWNLOADS!
    100mm Calibration files
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:457...
    BIST (Big Impossible Stress Test)
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:457...
    Calibration Sortie
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:457...
    MOAI Thumb Screw Adapter
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:422...
    Tilted Drip Arm (must be modified for upgraded Z axis
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:305...
    FOR PURCHASE
    Moai Transparent Orange Door
    www.ebay.com/itm/Transparent-...
    Incubator Heater (must have)
    incubatorwarehouse.com/egg-in...
    External Switch (for any heater)
    www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
    Styrene guides (on the side of the FEP for stabilization)
    www.amazon.com/Litko-Game-Acc...
    10mm x 2mm magnets
    www.amazon.com/FINDMAG-100Pie...
    Lights! Of every color
    www.amazon.com/MINGER-Changin...
    Look at you. You scrolled all the way down here. You, you're beautiful!

ความคิดเห็น • 17

  • @KaneIllustration
    @KaneIllustration 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Very clear and concise instructions! Peopoly should take notes from you on this. I have found their documentation to be lacking. Many many thanks for taking the time to share this with Moai owners that need it.

  • @adriangalasso2620
    @adriangalasso2620 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the video

  • @sanyaiase2165
    @sanyaiase2165 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    i really love this printer but i've always had issues where it suddenly stops working properly and cant get anything to print. i do like working on it to try and get through these issues but i've had to not rely on this printer any paid work because of the issues i've had and am currently having. Great vid and hopefully will try this once i can get the printer printing again.

    • @cainesarmoury8962
      @cainesarmoury8962  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Come to us on Facebook. I actively help people on the Peopoly Forum there. Even I get thrown the curveball, but overcoming the printers shortcomings has helped me enjoy it a lot more!

    • @sanyaiase2165
      @sanyaiase2165 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@cainesarmoury8962 I am on the moai facebook group that's where I go when the printer starts acting up XD

  • @markcaviness7691
    @markcaviness7691 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I just got this printer in kit form. Thanks for the instructions, very helpful! I bought this printer to make small spline shafts. I'm using Siraya Tech Blu resin. I probably should have started with some generic Peoply resin looking back. I have some on order. I'm going through the 100mm calibration now. I'm just kind of disappointed in my first prints though. the Z axis prints clear looking down into the parts, but the x-y axis of the parts are very cloudy. It's very hard to see detail. Also some parts have little white flakes on side. I know it capable of better quality. This is my first SLA printer. I have mostly been using my Ender 3, which took some tweaking, so I'm a little used to trial and error. LOL Any ideas> I'm using the FEP vat which I cleaned as well as I could and made sure the protective lens was cleaned. I'm also using the Easy level build plate. Thanks

    • @cainesarmoury8962
      @cainesarmoury8962  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Peopoly NEX series hasn't been the best. They are recommending you use Siraya Sculpt in its place and the difference is minimal. In fact, you have better control with the Siraya series and I have enjoyed it a lot. The only resin I still use from Peopoly is Tough.
      Other than that, you can join us on the Facebook group where I often answer questions about the Moai. Until you're calibrated mechanical prints are a bit off and it took me a while to learn why, hence the video. Let us know your settings, laser power and slicer, as it sounds like you're using everything I would have suggested.

    • @markcaviness7691
      @markcaviness7691 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@cainesarmoury8962 Good to know & yes, this video is a must view. I watched it several times. These shafts I'm printing take some time, (I have a job that takes most of my time), so I haven't done all the experimenting I need to. I ended up with a fairly nice print at these custom settings: X SIZE = 883 Y SIZE = 903 - LASER SETTING = 58 - PRINT SPEED IS 116 @ LAYER HEIGHT of .1 using Cura 4.9.1 As far as your Facebook page, I do not do Facebook. I used to, but I was seeking new employment and decided to rid myself of all that stuff. Thanks again for your help. I'll be looking for more of your videos!

    • @cainesarmoury8962
      @cainesarmoury8962  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@markcaviness7691 good to know that you're able to get somewhere closer to reliability. It changes the Moai experience once you're there.
      Don't worry about the Facebook page, I was referring to Peopoly's page for the moai. I'm going to post updates for a 130-150 conversion there.

  • @vaughanza
    @vaughanza 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the great video, I have not used my Moai for about a year now, wondering if you made any new changes and whats the latest firmware ? have peopoly disbanded this printer

    • @cainesarmoury8962
      @cainesarmoury8962  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      As older printers go, it's not disbanded (officially) yet and they are still making changes to it. Slow as it is, they have other bigger more focused projects that take up a majority of their time.
      Here is my copy of the firmware and it has completely changed my MOAI experienced.
      www.dropbox.com/s/aiz42uxfod5fv8b/moai-20200924.zip?dl=0

    • @vaughanza
      @vaughanza 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@cainesarmoury8962 Thanks appreciate it. Any chance you can share your Cura setting fort me. I briefly saw them in one of your videos

    • @cainesarmoury8962
      @cainesarmoury8962  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vaughanza Certainly!
      This is saved directly to my dropbox too.
      www.dropbox.com/s/g7ujuvpv12iy7gb/Working%2075um%20Standard.curaprofile?dl=0

    • @vaughanza
      @vaughanza 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@cainesarmoury8962 Thanks you star

  • @Prof.Polymath
    @Prof.Polymath 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Just bought the moai 130 today ! Want to use the fep with normal dlp resins as I’ve also got the Mono X and don’t want to have to buy the expensive laser resins too. Can you suggest a Brand that works best for you on the fep tank? Also what thickness fep do you replace with. Dlp use 0.15 is that too thick for these? I’ve seen they use only 0.05, have you tried various thickness fep sheets yourself yet? Thanks. Kind regards.

    • @cainesarmoury8962
      @cainesarmoury8962  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Stick with the 0.15 fep thickness, thinner tends to tear causing messes. The laser Pentwater it well,, just make certain the acrylic is clean and clear. As far as resin I have had great success with the Sirayatech resin.

    • @Prof.Polymath
      @Prof.Polymath 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@cainesarmoury8962 that’s great thank you for your advice. 👍🏼