Moai Series Part 8: Calibration ** UPDATED NOTES BELOW**
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2017
- *** UPDATE: The leveling process shown is this video is out of date and had been replaced by a new process. I will be releasing an updated video in the near future that supplements this series with the new process. In the short term, please follow along with the Peopoly build manual. ***
I ordered the Peopoly Moai Laser SLA kit a few months back when it was on pre-order and it’s finally here!!!! I thought I would take the time to document the build in a series of bite size videos that would help make it easier to make it through the build and follow along with the Peopoly documentation. If you are not familiar with the Moai, you can read up on them at peopoly.net Be sure to follow along with the entire series of video as I take you from Pre-check to first launch!
In this part of the series, I walk you through checking the calibration of the Galvo and leveling the build plate to the VAT.
As we continue the assembly, you can follow allow in the assembly guide located here:
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Moai direct from Peopoly
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**** UPDATE: The leveling process shown is this video is out of date and had been replaced by a new process. I will be releasing an updated video in the near future that supplements this series with the new process. In the short term, please follow along with the Peopoly build manual. ****
Following the steps on the new settings since I just got my Moai using the new Wiki update I still find myself having to tighten the build plate a lot to get the size of the print past 10.00 mm when it still needs to get to almost 11.00 mm. Is it safe for me to tighten more than the paper test?
The goal is to get all 4 of the cylinders down in the 10.6~10.8 mm range. It’s OK to tighten a little more if necessary, just don’t over do it. Remember just a 1/4 turn even has a huge impact on the size. If you can’t get it down in that range easily, try reaching out to Peopoly on their support forums for additional guidance before going to far.
I got a great solid ring print after getting my Caliper readings correct!
Did you make a followup video? cant seam to find it?
Thanks you for the video. I eagerly await your revised video.
I just wanted to add a note concerning the "safety glasses" supplied with the printer. I am a fabrication engineer at a scientific research facility. I ordered and setup at Moai 200 in my lab. This printer had to be checked out before I could use it for prototyping. My radiation safety monitor/inspector stated that the glasses that came with the system are not rated for laser safety or UV safety, in any way. The ones I received had ANSI Z87.1 / EN166-F ratings, which are standard safety glasses, without any other ratings. Modifiers that show wavelengths and intensity should/would be present on the glasses if they were rated for those things.
He ordered part number F22.P5L12.500 from lasersafety.com (laservisionusa).
They are rated at:
OD 9+ @ 180 - 315 NM
OD 6+ @ 315 - 445 NM
OD 4+ @ 705 - 755 NM
OD 8+ @755 - 1100 NM
These are laser ratings, and not listed as UV ratings due to laser intensity being the biggest factor for protection, in this instance. "OD 6+ @ 315 - 445 NM" covers the frequency of the laser in the Moai 200.
I am sure that there are other safety glass manufacturers that can provide similar glasses.
This is not an advertisement. I am in no way affiliated with this safety glass company and am not serving any financial interest in passing on this information. Protect your peepers, people!
As an additional note, even though the top door has a safety limit switch, the lower door (galvo, electronics, and laser access) also needs one to prevent operation while laser exposure is likely.
Just for general information:
ANSI 87.1 - blog.safetyglassesusa.com/what-does-ansi-z87-1-2010-certified-mean/
EN166-F - www.wiseworksafe.com/blog/view/understanding-en-166-personal-eye-protection-standard
would lo see the update process as a video, these have been great
Did you ever make a new video with current way to calibrate? Getting my Moai next week.
Great video!!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Did you release an updated video that supplements this series with the new leveling procedure? If so, I can't find it on your channel. A link here would be great.
It’s on the to-do list, but haven’t finished the update video on the new procedure yet. Will post links here when it’s done.
I'm stuck where it does the vat tilt test. I start it out as level. It goes down slowly, goes up fast, and then down fast. It ends up very unlevel. Is this normal before ever calibrating? I assumed it would end up at least close to level.
I asked about it on the Peopoly forum, and they sent me a firmware update, but it has zero effect on my Moai 130.
Thoughts?
Eric, doesn't sound quite right, but I don't have the machine any longer to validate it. I do remember it cycles the tilt on power up tho and IIRC it should come back up to level unless something is binding physically. I would suggest getting a video of what is happening and getting that over to Peopoly support if you can.
When doing a full level reset, do I need to empty the vat?
The leveling on this printer has becomed incredibly confusing with the addition of the easy to level buildplate and the fep vat, there are multiple manuals and there is a lot of confusion out there. Redid the leveling using the paper method and printed the cylinders, all printed great, but they are at about 9,23 mm, and in the manual they need to be at 10.5 mm, using the default buildplate with 1877 value on the Z-reset. Can you tell me what should i do to make the cylinders at that scale, if i increase to 1878 what does that mean exactly, haven't found an in depth explanation for this, increasing will increase the buildplate?
The 1877 vs 1878 value is the number of "steps" from the Z homing at the top to being in the proper position for first layer in the vat, so increasing it just means that the build plate is that much closer to the bottom of the take when the first layer prints. Unfortunately, I have not installed the FEP vat (or new style build plate) yet, so I can't really advise you on this one. Best place to ask the question is the Peopoly forums. forum.peopoly.net
@@crussty3d Hi thanks for responding, i got the answer on the forum, i am using the regular buildplate and vat so nothing special here for now just trying to make the cylinders the correct lenght. Started another print now using a much lower value to have less pressure on the vat and increase the size of the cylinders.
Practical Printing I am at 1870 value now and 3/4 cylinders print, next I need to manually rotate the nut for the corner that didn't print and tweak very slightly the other ones based off their length. Going to be tricky rotating them at such small angles, half a turn is 0.3 mm so quarter turn or 90 degrees is 0.15 mm.
I have noticed after I change the z value , the bed goes down, I turn the printer off then on to make it go back home and it makes a sound twice like the buildplate tries to go lower into the vat twice before going back up into home, is that normal?
Icemanmodeler mine has always made a “Thunk thunk” sound with the PDMS vat, so I assume so.
So I am doing the 200 zuan circle test, and only half of it is a circle, the other half does a square. What should I be looking to do?
Hi, unfortunately I no longer have this printer. I would suggest reaching out to PeoPoly support via email at support@peopoly.net or asking in their Facebook group.
For FEP vat users, use a specially made circle test calibration file at:
drive.google.com/file/d/1S-L18AFP98fBC-eObGOiKP4XNvgacvXn/view?usp=sharing
For FEP Vat users the Z Reset Position should be 1816, and you back it off to 1815 to level the plate.
The info for leveling the new style build plate is here: wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai:levelingnewplate
I wish I just justify a purchase like that, as well priced as it is :)
I just can't wait to get it printing. Doing all these videos is just dragging on the eventual bliss.
I cant go paste the laser test.. the laser does not go through the paper!?! any suggestion to why it does not ?
neliuz do you mean you cannot see the light from the laser from through the paper? Can you see the laser firing at all? If not, check your laser power setting in firmware, and probably contact Peopoly for support.
what about the fep vat ? is it the same operation ?
Hey bravo great stream let me ask you a stupid question, would these compaies prefer that you streamer/review guys not mention the cost of said printers etc? Just saying no one gives that info. Lol
That is a good question. I've never not been asked to, but I usually try to avoid it because it dates a video (i.e. prices change).
And what do i do if the laser doesn't match perfectly the paper, is it possible to shift it in the menu?
TheIcemanModdeler it doesn’t need to be a perfect match, the importance of that test is to validate the laser is firing inside the VAT and that it’s a consistent circle. If it’s drastically off, contact Peopoly support before making any adjustments to it. Fortunately a lot of the leveling process here is out of date and the new steps in the manual are much easier.
@@crussty3d Right, the circle is just left and forward slightly, the circle paper test that came with the printer has a border line where to cut it so it fits perfectly in the vat, no more room to move it and match it with the laser.
Trim that back inside the border more so you can move it to match the laser. That should tell you if the circle is correct in shape.
@@crussty3d Ok will do that, thanks.
@@crussty3d I fixed the problem, i found the advanced moai calibration document and that made me adjust the motors that control the mirrors to get everything aligned as close as possible, super simple design.
So what do you do if the laser does not line up with the circle? No one explains this
Mobbin Slobs please check the advanced calibration guide on the Peopoly wiki (wiki.peopoly.net/doku.php?id=moai:advancedcalibration) or reach out to their support via their Facebook group, their forum or email.
the circle test is completely wrong in this video as its to center the laser to the middle of the vat. if your galvo is making an oval or anything else its broken.
Malcolm, the information given was accurate at the time the video was made, per the build manual at the time and additional information given by Peopoly. As I noted in the title and comments above, the processes and procedures for calibration and leveling have been superseded with newer instructions from Peopoly, including new leveling process and (more recently) adjusting for dimensional accuracy. However, the purpose of the circle chase is still to simply verify that your laser is firing, and that it is doing it reasonably close to a circle. If this is not happening at this point, then yes, other actions are needed, which could be replacing or readjusting the galvos- or your bed could be tilted, or any other number of problems.
@@crussty3d im not saying your wrong in calibration just the reason for the circle test is flat out wrong. Iv been with peopoly from the early days and it says print out 1:1 scale and cut paper to fit neatly in the vat the right way around. Then if the laser does not track on the black line you undo the cap screw and rotate the galvo to move the position of the laser to where it is suppose to be. In no way shape or form is it for checking how "round" the galvos move the laser period.
Galvo "roundness" can only be changed when slicing using the new software and the distortion that sla comes with and having no cure was a big issue.
I hope i cleared up any misunderstanding you have picked up and since this is obsolete should it not be removed?