I am a Dual collector ( I own around 40 Dual turn plates…) and I have a good experience in repairs and revamping and definitely the Dual 1229 is probably one of the most challenging and difficult Dual model to be repaired. So congratulation! At the same time the models 1229 and 1229Q ( pretty rare) are probably the best ever idler wheel type turntable produced by this legendary firm. All my congrat to you and to the job done.
I admire your persistence. I have a 604 with a malfunctioning tone arm. Was working fine then it wasn't. Seems every time I correct something another problem pops up. I finally found a replacement for the whole tonearm assembly. Keeping my fingers crossed that corrects everything. It's a really nice turntable.
Very well done video repair. I’ve taken up repairs of these old Dual’s as a hobby. I only work on 1229 and 1219’s which were considered the best ones I believe of that era. They are very reliable once you get everything serviced and realigned etc. you did an excellent job of doing the most difficult repair I believe there is on these and of course that’s the repair and replacement of the dearing ring ( the part with the little ears broken off). There is not a lot of “ good” videos that cover this. The only thing I believe you omitted was how difficult it is to remove the old one and then install the new one. It takes some doing while I’ve never actually ground one off and glued a new one on it’s a real labor of love i imagine. I was fortunate to find a replacement tone arm that I used to replace the damaged one so as I said I haven’t done that repair. Just a note…when acquiring one of these old turntables, if the switch that toggles the tonearm between the single and multi play mode is stuck it means a service to the broken sleeve washer with the ball bearings is necessary. NEVER FORCE the lever between these two modes BECAUSE THIS IS WHAT BREAKS THE PLASTIC EARS OFF OF THE DEARING Ring. Everything else I believe I have repaired. Getting the steuerpimple (the rubber clutch tip part) to engage the metal paddle is tricky too. Sometimes taking some fine sandpaper and roughing the contact surface a bit will help too. Then of course you finally found that the segment guide that is adjustable can also drive you crazy until you find the sweet spot so there is no tension to the tone arm. Excellent video. Perhaps the best I’ve seen. Any additional video that fills in some of these blanks would be wonderful. Great job.
It was a real challenge to work on and fix. I learned a lot from it and got most of my references for the fixes from Klaus Adlohoch on Vinylengine better known as Dualcan. He has the best step-by-step picture fixes that helped me do the repairs. I did watch a few other YT channels for repairs that were helpful also and having the repair manual was a must. When I got this TT to work on the ears were already broken off, but at the time I had no idea until I had taken it apart numerous times.
That is precisely what I said. Force is never necessary. I repair dual turntable regularly and have never witnessed this fault firsthand. It is a user created problem from forcing sp mp.
When well maintained, the Dauls of this era are rock solid. Just got to keep the mechinsm well lubricated. The old grease can get like glue. Once cleaned, lubricated they are good. I noticed the StueurPimple (the little red rubber bit) appears to be in good condition, which is a good start. The tone arm height adjustment lever can have the same issue with getting gummed up too. Pretty well, make sure every moving part is free and you get it working again and if done right, it will last years. DualCan from VE was a Dual service agent for many many yers. He has a lot of great knowledge
It's been a few years better since I worked on 2 different Dual 1219's and a Dual 1229. I never could get the 1229 to work correctly. Maybe I will eventually take another stab at fixing the 1229 issue(s). My preference after working on the under side of different Dual turntables is that I prefer the belt drive models.
Great perseverance! I am helping my stereo tech fix a customers 1229 and it has the same tonearm issue along with the lack of proper cuing! I've been comparing it my 1219 which is flawless and haven't been able to figure it out. I'll discuss this more with my tech now as like you, I've been at wits end and my tech hasn't had a solution either and he's worked on these Duals for over 40 years! I guess he's never had a dearing ring issue ever come up! I guess that shows how bullet proof those things can be. The 1219 I have has been in my family since brand new 1971 and all I've done is just relube, clean and readjust it. Glad to see you're kind of local! I'm in Seattle. BTW, I don't know what you used to fix/replace the rubber O ring that holds the ball bearings in the multi changer rod but I use for a perfect fit, a Danco #31 plumbing O ring.
The old original Dearing Ring was made of plastic. The new one I put in is made of steel. It took me a while to figure out the problem myself. Being a retired Air Force aircraft mechanic I had to put on my troubleshooting cap to work this one as it's the only Dual I've ever worked on. The O ring you referenced I didn't replace it I cleaned and re-lubed it as per the instructions I read online.
@@VinylRescue I saw that the original was plastic and you replaced with a durable metal one. I amazed you could still use the original O ring as they are usually hard but crumble easily.
I’ve never owned a Dual. So many cheap tt’s of the 1970’s were styled like Dual’s, as a result they always look cheap or antiquated to me. I am sure they made fine machines and if well maintained are play great. My brand of choice has been Technics, to me, the design of the late 70’s to early 80’s pre P-mount are my idea of what a turntable should look like. They have always performed and sound good to me.
@@VinylRescue my SL-Q2 was a freebie off of Craigslist, it works great. The only quibble is the dust cover hinge mount issue that so many have. Then again, these are 40 year old devices.. so many of the high quality tt’s still alive and well. If they still made the SL-Q2 it would easily be a $1000 TT.
@@VinylRescue as of now, just the tips are broken off of the molded hinge brackets on the cover, I have taped the cover to the hinges to keep them in place, but it’s a drag if I want to remove the cover completely. I have seen the metal brackets, good idea, I have made something similar out of polycarbonate angles acquired from a surplus store. Since it’s working for now, I’ll just handle it carefully but have a plan should the tape fail. Thanks for the advice.
I too have this 1229 Dual. Of the different Duals including two 1219's I have worked on including other (rim and belt drive players), this one became too much to deal with, so I decided to set it aside before I did something to make future repairs even more difficult and perhaps more expensive as well. I did not originally take notes of what I did maintenance wise, but I think that I made a rubber ring to replace the old one. I may have also made another smaller ring, but it has been a number of years since my work on the 1229. I suspect that I will have to work through some of the problems you experienced in order to get the tonearm freed-up to neutral. Now, where did I hide the service manual? Thank you for this very helpful video.
Nice work, glad you stuck with it. Dual turntables are sensitive to lubricant types, can you share with us the types and sources for the lubes you used?
I really didn't add much lube but did use what I had on hand. I used some synthetic liquid bearings lube for some things and added some lithium grease to some of the dry-moving parts that needed it.
All this table needed was a good wash with iso. and a new steuerpimple. Pretty sure you created the majority of the problems you experienced with the turntable. Relube and all contact points lightly polished with metal polish. New RCA's. It is rare to have to adjust the screws. When you moved it from single to multi you broke the bearing dearing. Should always flush that areawith iso and add a few drops of lube. You needed a new steurpimple right off the bat.
Uh, you sir have no idea what you're talking about. It was already broken when I received it. I did not show everything I did to this unit. I went over it very well and lubed only what needed to be lubed as it had been recently lubed before my friend bought it. I have never worked on a turntable like this before so I had to do my homework before even tearing it apart. I downloaded the service manual, watched several videos, and reviewed a few other websites with valuable information. I read over and followed Klaus Adlhoch's pictorial instructions from Vinylengine.com. I didn't break the dearing support lift as it was already broken since it didn't pivot at all when I first started troubleshooting in either single or multi LP mode. The steurpimple was in fine shape or I would have had it replaced. The tonearm wouldn't pivot due to the dearing lift support being broken not the steurpimple. So next time you go and be a troll by criticizing my work you need to get your facts straight! My video only showed snapshots of the work I did to get this beast of turntable working again.
Thanks for this video; mine has similar problems I think. For the adjustment that you talk about at 17:20 that finally reduced tonearm friction can you describe what or where that adjustment is?
If you have the PDF service manual then go to page 7 and look at part #233. On the back of that part is a Phillips head screw go screws into part #232 that can be loosened to adjust that part up or down allowing part #201 to move through part #232 that I'm pointing to in my video. You want it to be adjusted to go in between the gap with no rubbing. I hope this makes sense.
@@VinylRescue Btw, how would you rate the level of difficulty for installing the new dearing ring? I have the Shapeways part and am considering doing it.
The whole brown surrounding part is loose on ours and I can’t work out the right height for it to be at. Also can’t work out how to get the dust cover in place properly as a result. I would love some help with this
@@VinylRescue I actually got it to snap into place - there are 4 little releases (1 for each corner) underneath that help seat it properly. Now the issue is that the dust cover seems to float around with front to back play of about an inch. It doesn't seem to slot into anything properly and can be pulled forward so that it hangs over the front of the wooden body
@@TheHallsNYC it's been a few years since I worked on that Dual and I seem to remember that it didn't fit on like most normal turntables. I believe it mainly just floated like what you're describing. Glad to hear you got it fitted back together.
Hi!, super video, thanks for sharing. I've a 1229, that cames with a broken headshell, when installing a new one, the old one just unscrews? and and when rewiring the turntable, do you have a tip from where to start or, what to be cautious? thansk a lot for the time of answering!
Sorry for the delay in answering as I work the weekends. Are you referring to the cartridge holder that is attached to the tonearm? What I mean by the cartridge holder is the part that the cartridge is mounted into the holder itself. Do you have the service manual? Dual calls it a "Cartridge Holder" in the manual, not a headshell. If don't have the service manual then follow this link to download it from this page: www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/1229.shtml If it asks you to join then please do as it's FREE. I've not had to change the Cartridge Holder itself so I can't answer that directly.
I'm having trouble with changing the cartridge on my 1229. Could someone please help with directions please? I saw a Shure M75 cartridge with stylus on E-Bay. It is from the same era as the turntable. Is it better to purchase a newer cartridge instead?
Hmm, good question. I just checked on Vinylengine.com and there are many models of the Shure M75 cart. The stylus on the cart on eBay made be just a cheap replacement and may be okay - maybe? I did some Googling and found the Shure website which has a database of its historical inventory service.shure.com/s/article/vintage-shure-catalogs-1933-1984?language=en_US. The earliest M75 cart I could find was the M75-6S made in 1974 although Vinylengine has it in 1973 - close enough! LPGear has stylus replacements for the cart, but it only has a polished conical tip. If you want a vintage cart I can't recommend the Pickering enough! I have two Pickering XV-15/625E that I bought LPGear VidVid Line Contact stylus replacements on that are just phenomenal! Link to the LPGear stylus: www.lpgear.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?&Store_Code=LG&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PICSD1800S I see a Pickering XV-15/400E on eBay right now for $58. If you are looking at a newer cart then I recently bought a Sumiko Pearl for $149 off of Amazon and it's turned out to be a great cart that I finally put over 50 hours on and did a video yesterday. Cartridges can be what you like and how much you want to spend. Now, how to change out the cart is not like other turntables. If you don't have a copy of the owners/service manual then to go this link and download it: www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/1229.shtml It explains how to change out the cart. Hope this helps!
I guess maybe you didn't catch my comments that I've NEVER worked on a Dual before?? What did you expect? It was a learning experience for me and I did get it fixed. And I find it funny when people make off the wall critical comments who have NO related content on their YT channel. 🤔😤
@@watdanuqta-mf5ms I did. That's why it took me over two month to finally fix it. The owner wasn't in a big hurry and I kept him apprized of my venture. I did a lot of research and found some great videos and forums that helped me find the correct parts and to do the repairs. You might do better to stop being so critical of someone's else's work when you have no idea of what work actually went into fixing it. So stop being an armchair critic and get a life!
I am a Dual collector ( I own around 40 Dual turn plates…) and I have a good experience in repairs and revamping and definitely the Dual 1229 is probably one of the most challenging and difficult Dual model to be repaired. So congratulation!
At the same time the models 1229 and 1229Q ( pretty rare) are probably the best ever idler wheel type turntable produced by this legendary firm. All my congrat to you and to the job done.
I admire your persistence. I have a 604 with a malfunctioning tone arm. Was working fine then it wasn't. Seems every time I correct something another problem pops up. I finally found a replacement for the whole tonearm assembly. Keeping my fingers crossed that corrects everything. It's a really nice turntable.
Invaluable video tutorial. Thank you very much.
Oh hind sight is 20/20 right. looking at the absence of ears on that Dearing ring shaking my head. Lol. But you got there in the end.
Very well done video repair. I’ve taken up repairs of these old Dual’s as a hobby. I only work on 1229 and 1219’s which were considered the best ones I believe of that era. They are very reliable once you get everything serviced and realigned etc. you did an excellent job of doing the most difficult repair I believe there is on these and of course that’s the repair and replacement of the dearing ring ( the part with the little ears broken off). There is not a lot of “ good” videos that cover this. The only thing I believe you omitted was how difficult it is to remove the old one and then install the new one. It takes some doing while I’ve never actually ground one off and glued a new one on it’s a real labor of love i imagine. I was fortunate to find a replacement tone arm that I used to replace the damaged one so as I said I haven’t done that repair. Just a note…when acquiring one of these old turntables, if the switch that toggles the tonearm between the single and multi play mode is stuck it means a service to the broken sleeve washer with the ball bearings is necessary. NEVER FORCE the lever between these two modes BECAUSE THIS IS WHAT BREAKS THE PLASTIC EARS OFF OF THE DEARING Ring. Everything else I believe I have repaired. Getting the steuerpimple (the rubber clutch tip part) to engage the metal paddle is tricky too. Sometimes taking some fine sandpaper and roughing the contact surface a bit will help too. Then of course you finally found that the segment guide that is adjustable can also drive you crazy until you find the sweet spot so there is no tension to the tone arm. Excellent video. Perhaps the best I’ve seen. Any additional video that fills in some of these blanks would be wonderful. Great job.
It was a real challenge to work on and fix. I learned a lot from it and got most of my references for the fixes from Klaus Adlohoch on Vinylengine better known as Dualcan. He has the best step-by-step picture fixes that helped me do the repairs. I did watch a few other YT channels for repairs that were helpful also and having the repair manual was a must. When I got this TT to work on the ears were already broken off, but at the time I had no idea until I had taken it apart numerous times.
That is precisely what I said. Force is never necessary. I repair dual turntable regularly and have never witnessed this fault firsthand. It is a user created problem from forcing sp mp.
When well maintained, the Dauls of this era are rock solid. Just got to keep the mechinsm well lubricated. The old grease can get like glue. Once cleaned, lubricated they are good. I noticed the StueurPimple (the little red rubber bit) appears to be in good condition, which is a good start. The tone arm height adjustment lever can have the same issue with getting gummed up too. Pretty well, make sure every moving part is free and you get it working again and if done right, it will last years.
DualCan from VE was a Dual service agent for many many yers. He has a lot of great knowledge
I used his info for most of the repairs on this Dual.
It's been a few years better since I worked on 2 different Dual 1219's and a Dual 1229. I never could get the 1229 to work correctly. Maybe I will eventually take another stab at fixing the 1229 issue(s). My preference after working on the under side of different Dual turntables is that I prefer the belt drive models.
Great perseverance! I am helping my stereo tech fix a customers 1229 and it has the same tonearm issue along with the lack of proper cuing! I've been comparing it my 1219 which is flawless and haven't been able to figure it out. I'll discuss this more with my tech now as like you, I've been at wits end and my tech hasn't had a solution either and he's worked on these Duals for over 40 years! I guess he's never had a dearing ring issue ever come up! I guess that shows how bullet proof those things can be. The 1219 I have has been in my family since brand new 1971 and all I've done is just relube, clean and readjust it. Glad to see you're kind of local! I'm in Seattle. BTW, I don't know what you used to fix/replace the rubber O ring that holds the ball bearings in the multi changer rod but I use for a perfect fit, a Danco #31 plumbing O ring.
The old original Dearing Ring was made of plastic. The new one I put in is made of steel. It took me a while to figure out the problem myself. Being a retired Air Force aircraft mechanic I had to put on my troubleshooting cap to work this one as it's the only Dual I've ever worked on. The O ring you referenced I didn't replace it I cleaned and re-lubed it as per the instructions I read online.
@@VinylRescue I saw that the original was plastic and you replaced with a durable metal one. I amazed you could still use the original O ring as they are usually hard but crumble easily.
Cool video!! A labor of love
Thank you ! A job done with dedication and taste for what you want to achieve.
I’ve never owned a Dual. So many cheap tt’s of the 1970’s were styled like Dual’s, as a result they always look cheap or antiquated to me. I am sure they made fine machines and if well maintained are play great.
My brand of choice has been Technics, to me, the design of the late 70’s to early 80’s pre P-mount are my idea of what a turntable should look like. They have always performed and sound good to me.
I have a Technics SL-Q2 that's quite a workhorse! Bought it from Goodwill and refurbished it. Did some mods and plays like new!
@@VinylRescue my SL-Q2 was a freebie off of Craigslist, it works great. The only quibble is the dust cover hinge mount issue that so many have. Then again, these are 40 year old devices.. so many of the high quality tt’s still alive and well. If they still made the SL-Q2 it would easily be a $1000 TT.
@@mplsmark222 I bought the hinges off of eBay and fixed mine. It was easier than I thought.
@@VinylRescue as of now, just the tips are broken off of the molded hinge brackets on the cover, I have taped the cover to the hinges to keep them in place, but it’s a drag if I want to remove the cover completely. I have seen the metal brackets, good idea, I have made something similar out of polycarbonate angles acquired from a surplus store. Since it’s working for now, I’ll just handle it carefully but have a plan should the tape fail. Thanks for the advice.
I too have this 1229 Dual. Of the different Duals including two 1219's I have worked on including other (rim and belt drive players), this one became too much to deal with, so I decided to set it aside before I did something to make future repairs even more difficult and perhaps more expensive as well. I did not originally take notes of what I did maintenance wise, but I think that I made a rubber ring to replace the old one. I may have also made another smaller ring, but it has been a number of years since my work on the 1229. I suspect that I will have to work through some of the problems you experienced in order to get the tonearm freed-up to neutral. Now, where did I hide the service manual?
Thank you for this very helpful video.
Nice work, glad you stuck with it. Dual turntables are sensitive to lubricant types, can you share with us the types and sources for the lubes you used?
I really didn't add much lube but did use what I had on hand. I used some synthetic liquid bearings lube for some things and added some lithium grease to some of the dry-moving parts that needed it.
All this table needed was a good wash with iso. and a new steuerpimple. Pretty sure you created the majority of the problems you experienced with the turntable.
Relube and all contact points lightly polished with metal polish. New RCA's. It is rare to have to adjust the screws. When you moved it from single to multi you broke the bearing dearing. Should always flush that areawith iso and add a few drops of lube. You needed a new steurpimple right off the bat.
Uh, you sir have no idea what you're talking about. It was already broken when I received it. I did not show everything I did to this unit. I went over it very well and lubed only what needed to be lubed as it had been recently lubed before my friend bought it. I have never worked on a turntable like this before so I had to do my homework before even tearing it apart. I downloaded the service manual, watched several videos, and reviewed a few other websites with valuable information. I read over and followed Klaus Adlhoch's pictorial instructions from Vinylengine.com. I didn't break the dearing support lift as it was already broken since it didn't pivot at all when I first started troubleshooting in either single or multi LP mode. The steurpimple was in fine shape or I would have had it replaced. The tonearm wouldn't pivot due to the dearing lift support being broken not the steurpimple. So next time you go and be a troll by criticizing my work you need to get your facts straight! My video only showed snapshots of the work I did to get this beast of turntable working again.
Thanks for this video; mine has similar problems I think. For the adjustment that you talk about at 17:20 that finally reduced tonearm friction can you describe what or where that adjustment is?
If you have the PDF service manual then go to page 7 and look at part #233. On the back of that part is a Phillips head screw go screws into part #232 that can be loosened to adjust that part up or down allowing part #201 to move through part #232 that I'm pointing to in my video. You want it to be adjusted to go in between the gap with no rubbing. I hope this makes sense.
@@VinylRescue yes! Thank you….. that fixed the friction in the tone arm. Much appreciated!
@@richardforrest7757 you're welcome!
@@VinylRescue Btw, how would you rate the level of difficulty for installing the new dearing ring? I have the Shapeways part and am considering doing it.
The whole brown surrounding part is loose on ours and I can’t work out the right height for it to be at. Also can’t work out how to get the dust cover in place properly as a result. I would love some help with this
Hmm, I'm not sure as to how I could help you with this odd issue. It sounds like the outer wooden body of the turntable is coming apart?
@@VinylRescue I actually got it to snap into place - there are 4 little releases (1 for each corner) underneath that help seat it properly. Now the issue is that the dust cover seems to float around with front to back play of about an inch. It doesn't seem to slot into anything properly and can be pulled forward so that it hangs over the front of the wooden body
@@TheHallsNYC it's been a few years since I worked on that Dual and I seem to remember that it didn't fit on like most normal turntables. I believe it mainly just floated like what you're describing. Glad to hear you got it fitted back together.
Hi!, super video, thanks for sharing. I've a 1229, that cames with a broken headshell, when installing a new one, the old one just unscrews? and and when rewiring the turntable, do you have a tip from where to start or, what to be cautious? thansk a lot for the time of answering!
Sorry for the delay in answering as I work the weekends. Are you referring to the cartridge holder that is attached to the tonearm? What I mean by the cartridge holder is the part that the cartridge is mounted into the holder itself. Do you have the service manual? Dual calls it a "Cartridge Holder" in the manual, not a headshell. If don't have the service manual then follow this link to download it from this page: www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/1229.shtml If it asks you to join then please do as it's FREE. I've not had to change the Cartridge Holder itself so I can't answer that directly.
@@VinylRescue thansk for your repply, i'll download the manual and take a look. i let you know if i swap it
I'm having trouble with changing the cartridge on my 1229. Could someone please help with directions please? I saw a Shure M75 cartridge with stylus on E-Bay. It is from the same era as the turntable. Is it better to purchase a newer cartridge instead?
Hmm, good question. I just checked on Vinylengine.com and there are many models of the Shure M75 cart. The stylus on the cart on eBay made be just a cheap replacement and may be okay - maybe? I did some Googling and found the Shure website which has a database of its historical inventory service.shure.com/s/article/vintage-shure-catalogs-1933-1984?language=en_US. The earliest M75 cart I could find was the M75-6S made in 1974 although Vinylengine has it in 1973 - close enough! LPGear has stylus replacements for the cart, but it only has a polished conical tip. If you want a vintage cart I can't recommend the Pickering enough! I have two Pickering XV-15/625E that I bought LPGear VidVid Line Contact stylus replacements on that are just phenomenal! Link to the LPGear stylus: www.lpgear.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?&Store_Code=LG&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PICSD1800S I see a Pickering XV-15/400E on eBay right now for $58. If you are looking at a newer cart then I recently bought a Sumiko Pearl for $149 off of Amazon and it's turned out to be a great cart that I finally put over 50 hours on and did a video yesterday. Cartridges can be what you like and how much you want to spend.
Now, how to change out the cart is not like other turntables. If you don't have a copy of the owners/service manual then to go this link and download it: www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/1229.shtml It explains how to change out the cart. Hope this helps!
@@VinylRescue Thank you for all of the information! It gives me a solid place(s) to look.
🤘
😜 ρяσмσѕм
Bill Neumann Fix My Dual Bill Neumann Fix My Dual Bill Neumann Fix My Dual! Instead of this trial and error crap.
I guess maybe you didn't catch my comments that I've NEVER worked on a Dual before?? What did you expect? It was a learning experience for me and I did get it fixed. And I find it funny when people make off the wall critical comments who have NO related content on their YT channel. 🤔😤
@@VinylRescue I guess my "trial and error crap" comment escaped you. You do your homework b-4 just jumping into something.
@@watdanuqta-mf5ms I did. That's why it took me over two month to finally fix it. The owner wasn't in a big hurry and I kept him apprized of my venture. I did a lot of research and found some great videos and forums that helped me find the correct parts and to do the repairs. You might do better to stop being so critical of someone's else's work when you have no idea of what work actually went into fixing it. So stop being an armchair critic and get a life!