Thanks so much for this video. I've never opened up a motor on a table and this gave me the confidence to do it. The pulley now spins without a sound after some oiling 😊
Awesome video. I just purchased one of these turntables and was going to pay someone to do this. Seeing it done is much easier for me to comprehend vs reading a manual. Thanks so much
you are very honest and do not do anything half way you are very caring when it comes to your patients you are very wise and very skilled and a fun teacher to watch thank you for all you do on you tube
I have been inspired by your choice of testing media on the last few turntable repairs you've done and have now purchased the Monty Python's Contractual Obligation Album. What a hoot!
Just picked one up and this video helped. Had the stoobe paper making noise, and the cut off switch was giving me channel grief. Running smooth now. Great table! Back when companies built things to last and not be disposed of every few years
What a nicely made unit, i've tinkered with old cheap b.s.r decks and other basic types, but not one of those. Grease is a pig for going solid, sometimes the turntable is locked solid and ive had to warm the tube up it sits on, once off its cleaning with meths, then a light coating of grease. Most of the rollers lock up and the cast control cog with the tracks also locks solid. Clever in the way they work, and satisfying when repaired :-D.
Ooow and i dont use wd40 for anything other than to loosen things, once loose i clean and apply real oil. Wd40 is usefull, but knowing what it isnt is the key :-D
I have come into possession of a splendid Dual 1229 in exceptional aesthetic condition with a very particular transparent lid. If you don't want to remove everything, just push the front part and it will slide towards the back, opening a sufficient part to be able to operate the turntable; a very special feature. The turntable turns on, the strobe light works and you can hear the motor turning but nothing moves and the controls are stuck. I believe it is a fixable problem and this great video will help me to fix it. Thank you very much. Greetings from Italy.
Wow, that is a truly vintage table. All mechanical. Mine is vintage, but has some electronics in it for preamp and direct drive. No caps in this one to replace. Pretty cool.
I like to put a dremel on the idler, before the rubber restore, using a fine drum sander. And a drop of oil on the idler bearing. Those speed adjusters are a big source of problems. Even with the shutoff issues.they used bubblegum for grease. I like to mix lithium grease with lanolin. Lanolin is really slick. I use it for fine tape recorder parts, and it lasts a very long time!
The bronze bushing the platter sits on should always be removed and cleaned, along with the well it sits in. A drop of oil in that area also. Thanks a million for making this video. Very well done!
AWESOME VID - thank you I'm giving my Dual a tune up after sending it in to a shop that actually gave it more problems! Sent it in w a bum RCA and they sent it back with a bum return arm. Unless they actually damaged something, I'm guessing I can just oil and grease this baby back up without their "help"
Thank you! I was so curious about the record you were testing with I shazamed it and added it to my apple music library! I now have some truly awesome stuff to make me laugh.
I restored my 1226 like this. Used the same lubricants. Waiting for my steurpimple to arrive. Also set the stylus geometry with the protractor. Not at intimidating as I thought it would be.
This was extremely helpfull in helping get mine working again. The only thing that is not working is the turntable won't stop spinning afterwards or when you press stop.
I had this issue initially with mine but I found that manually spinning the largest gear wheel eventually "reset" it. Also try clearing up old grease and replacing with new
@bliss1979 thanks for the advice I did try redoing all the greas and oil. When a record finishes or you push the stop the arm will return but the wheel keeps on turning and I am havei g trouble identifying what turns off the motor automaticlly.
@@lodshepherd945If you go to 18m 30seconds of this video, he explains the start and stop mechanism. For the motor to stop, the "catch" needs to be in the middle of the U shape. Flip your platter over and with the arm now on your left (but underneath), use your right index finger to spin the large cog/gear. This will get the mechanisms moving and you can see there's an arm that pushes into a small box and that turns the motor off.
Great work. The only thing missing is the lubrication of the tonearm joints. My arm is a little stiff. I can feel it. It wants to stay wherever it is, like an old dog.
this is very informative.. been thinking of buying a battered dual 601 from my neighbor and restore/ refurbish it, this video is going to help a lot. Thank you.
Love this video. I could never figure out how to get the tightly pressed motor halves apart. I want to lubricate one that I own. I would love to see how to get the arm height sleeve washer on. It looks difficult!
Loosen counterweight to when arm is "balanced" in free space, set index ring to "0", and tighten counterweight to recommended force onto the cartridge, Conical Styli use about the same amount of force on "anti-skate". Eliptical, Hyper-Eliptical, and Shibata uses about 0.8g more because of more longitudinal contact with the groove.
I know this was 5 years ago, but as a note there were quite a lot of 33 1/3 10Inch records released also :). Great video. Very detailed. These old duals were and still are great turntables. They have a strong following which means finding information is available, even if it is hard to get parts for some of them now. I have the slightly more basic Dual 1015F and I restored it and it works beautifully. The speed on these is remarkably accurate considering it is just using what is essentially a shaded pole motor. +- 0.05% on mine consistently.
That's a nice looking turn table with the massive platter and strobe indicator/control all done up like that. I've been using the same motor oil on my own gear but wasn't sure what was good, so thanks. The only thing I use wd40 for is to soak and clean out bearings that seem ready for the scrap pile if they are really full of junk (like other dried wd40 or dusty cigarette lunk) then I push wd40 out with compressed air, soak in good oil, more air and then oil normally. Not for everything, just the bearings that are extra horrible and for equipment that's going to be heavily used for things like preservation tape transfers. Not that I leave "vapory" oil in tape transport roller bearings... but it has saved badly neglected broadcast equipment headed for the parts pile. Maybe there's a better way (like don't send the bearing flying across the room with the air!) but this seems to work; you can see the junk coming out. And the idea is that there shouldn't be any wd40 left in there or else I'm doing it wrong.
Just watched your entire restore of the Dual 1229 and it was enjoyable to watch. If you ever have the opportunity and can find A Dual 601 and can make another video documenting how to restore the Dual 601 that would be fantastic.
I have one of these. There used to be an old manufacturer authorized dealer/servicer in my area but he's long dead. I wish I bought my first Dual from him as a 1229 as it would probably still be great but left with a cheaper 1214. I have a 1229 now but it needs service. I'm not going to pull it apart!
Wow, a really thorough well-made video. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a 1229. You've basically shown just about all that needs to be done, maintenance-wise. I picked up some Zoom Spout oil, which is made for motors at Lowes. Got a handy long spout to get into tight places. You should give it a try. Regards, Tom
Yes these units are pretty much bullet proof, with the exception with what needed to be done on this. One one that stumps most people is how to get the motor apart. I am sure a few cringed when the hammer came out, but that is the only way to pop apart those motors, as an attempt to pry it apart will result in damage to the bearings. Tapping with a hammer will separate the halves and not put any lateral stress on the rotor or shaft.
So cool to see these. I just got a 1264 in beautiful condition. Only issue is the belt doesn't quite shift to 45 speed. Not sure if it's the belt, or something else, but mechanically, everything is in tip-top shape.
I have a 1229 that I bought Brand New as part of my 'sound system'... along with a pair of JBL L100s & a Sherwood 7300 receiver. Recently, I put my system back together again, but the 1229 was not performing correctly. At the repair shop the first verdict was: "everything looks great, it just needs a clean and lube and a new stylus as the old one was bent". They would have to special order the stylus to match my old one. A couple of months later, I call to see where the repair was At, as far as getting in the new needle? It was: "expected in this week". Now the verdict IS: "the friction pad is worn smooth" (as you refer to at 14:40 in your video). AND THUS my turntable tone-arm will No Longer perform correctly... it will just sit there at the end of an album side, so I will have to manually return the tone-arm to its stand. NOW... I have a Question for You: IF I only used my 1229 sparingly ... would the fact that It is Now 'worn smooth' have been something Very Apparent (OR not so apparent) with the first verdict months ago that everything "looked great, it just needed cleaned & lubed"? After watching your video I have a question as to whether or not my "worn out" issue is actually MORE one of someone putting lube Exactly where you advise NOT TO - on the friction pad?? Your thoughts Please on How Much "use" does it take to "wear out" a frction pad??
@@kchambers8102 yes it can. They are available as one of my customers brought a few in for his turntables. Google it and you will find sellers. They they push onto the spring loaded mount. I have a video showing the replacement of one.
My repair guys said the steuerpimpel is in good shape but the friction plate, that it rubs against, is worn smooth. I saw another TH-cam video where that person was saying: that if he tightened down a screw at the opposite end of the long arm (that has the friction pad ? at the other end of it) -- it forces the pad up... (into the steuerpimpel, I assume?) and helps in making to tone arm complete its action at the end of the record. I know it was a Dual turntable but not sure if it was a 1229. Does that sound right to you? And can the friction pad be replaced? Or acid etched, sanded or roughed up enough - to no longer be "too smooth" for the control arm to do its job correctly and return itself?
Biggest problem i have run into is that the STOP selector quits functioning. Even with the table working fine I rarely find one with a working STOP fuction.
Hi. Thanks for these wonderful Dual videos. I've been loving my 1245 since I bought it the 80's. I just followed your video, made a few adjustments, cleaned and greased everything. Now I'm sure it will outlast me! One little quirk has just started. Auto arm drop moves to correct position... starts to drop but then moves towards the center of the record about 1/2" while lowering to the record. Both 45 and 33. Any idea what adjustment I can make to have the tonearm just drop straight down? Thanks for any advice you might have.
If anyone with a stacker spindle comes across this video, it’s a twist 20° and pull to get it out. There’s a set screw on a spindle and an L shaped groove that it locks into. Don’t go crazy trying to yank it out. It comes out easily if you’re doing it right. It only took me 2 hours to figure it out...
Complete shot in the dark here. I just was given a dual 1229 from my wifes grandma. A mouse turned it into a nest and ate the tone arm wires. no other damage. I'm going to do that grease refresh and cleaning and it should fix most of my issues. However I temp attached 4 wires to the cassette while I wait for the correct parts to fix it and I get a lot of noise off the tone arm when touched. Is there a ground wire I am missing? Im guessing my idler wheel not pushing in 33, no fine adjustment for the speed, and tone arm not behaving at all (wants to stay outside the record no matter the size), are all due to lube issues.
Good video overall, I'm very appreciative for all I learned. Having said that, opening the motor by hitting the end of the shaft with a hammer is a VERY BAD idea. I knew better but did it anyway and deformed the end of the shaft, thus rendering it useless. A much better approach (based on more research) is to use a long-nose pliers in reverse (i.e. nose in closed position between halves of motor and pull open handles to pry open). Also, when closing the motor, rather than pounding it with a hammer l used a couple of C-clamps to bring the halves together evenly. Again, thanks for the video because I learned a lot and never would have tried to get in there in the first place without seeing this...but you owe me for the motor:)
That's because you "hit" it too hard. I use very little force, more of a tap. A plastic mallet is a better choice, but I don't have one. I have opened probably 100 or more motors this way and not damaged a single one. You did one and wrecked it.
@@12voltvids I tried to tap it, but it didn't work for me!?! Anyway, great video and thanks for giving me the courage to get started. I now have a perfectly working 1229 and a lot more knowledge than when I started. The small amount I paid for a motor on eBay (which I oiled and rebuilt with the method described above) was totally worth it!!!
Good informative video. I don’t know how much information about specs and maintenance guidance was available six years ago but nowadays there are all sort of maintenance manuals available on line with factory specifications for servicing these turntables. The only challenge that is to find a suitable replacement to some of the recommended lubricants by the manufacturers. That should complement very well with this video (as in using grease on friction points such as the pitch control, and the section around the cam). Also, since WD40 was used, it is likely that some of it got everywhere else that could eventually gum-up some components of the mechanism
You are assuming that I care more for this old crap than i I do. These old German record changers were never considered great back in the 70s. We used to condem and toss them out 40 years ago. When someone brings me a turntable they want it running for 30.00. Yup that what i make from most if these. People want them to either listen to s few old records or want them in working order so they can flog them off on someone else and try to make some money from all the hype surrounding anything vinyl. If someone said to me I'll spend 500 for you to restore this I would put more effort in but those people don't exist. They may appear to exist in internet posts but i have never met one in the 40+ years I have been servivibg this crap.
My parents had a 1218 and a 109 in a Viking/Clairtone Console. Both beautiful and tough. Everyone wants the easy way out. Just spray your troubles away. and Sit on my ace, WTF. LOL
Replacing the standard Dual mat with an upgraded mat, there are many types including glass, acrylic, various plastics and composites with recessed centres and when used with a record clamp provides a noticeable sonic improvement over the Dual mat. Platter Pad and Platter Matter are two such mats. The mat/clamp combination effectively damps out vinyl and platter resonances that the cartridge picks up when tracing the record groove.
FYI Actually most automatic turntables such as the Dual above can be used in a semi auto mode and as such the tonearm can be moved manually to any location on the record without damaging the tonearm! These tonearms are designed to move freely in manual mode....I know I own 5 of these Duals. The only automatics I would not move the tonearm manually on are ones that use microprocessor controls such as a Sony PS-X600 ,Yamaha PX-3,or Denon DP47F, these are equipped with directional touch controls for this purpose.
Don't forget linear tracking. But then again, they have directional buttons as well, but right. Any of these mechanical automatic turntables can be operated in manual mode. Why do you think they have a cue level on them?
12voltvids Yep didnt forget those either my Yamaha PX-3 is a linear tracker. Previous poster didn't seem to have clue about automatic turntables. It really kills me about some folks that post comments on things they really don't know anything about....LOL. Anyway great video....I have a few Non working Duals that I want to get to .....this video should be a great help....thanks!
Where did you learn to work on those? I bought a new 1229 in 74', never thought it could be repaired without a German Tech. lol.... I'd have better luck figuring out Apollo 13 . I do use 3 in 1 on my Fender Vibratone, just a drop or 2 on the felt washer ever 5 years or so. Good Job, I was looking for a new turntable for some vintage vinyl. Might be better off getting a Vintage turntable instead.
Thanks for this video which I think is very helpful to service my old man's Dual 1019. I understand you're using 3in1 lubricant for bearings and pivots. What lubricant-grease you are using for the pitch control mechanism in this video? Thanks for you help in advance! Regards Aron, Germany
Hellon Thanks for the vido. I have used it to help me service a similar turn table Sony 5520. I have created a new problem I'm hoping you can help me. About an inch in to a record the need slides backwards accords the disk back towards the edge of the platter. Do you have any advice on how to rectify this
Hello, this video is awesome! Super usefull and most of it is really well explained. I just get a 1229 wich is about the same construction and seems to be the same motor. The motor makes a weird noise that I could compare to an electrique "buzz" like some neon lights can do sometimes . The noise is coming from the motor and is present wether the motor turns alone or with the idler or plate. Have you ever seen and ear something like that? (I did remove, open and oil the motor like in the video but absolutely nothing change) Thanks a lot for your work and your eventual answer
Hello, thanks for your lesson on this. I have my father dual and just did a lot of what you mentioned here. Could you please advise me about the mechanism of vinyl rotation ( 33-45-78) One. Mine is not working well. The motor is working but when i Place the plate on and if it is in 45, it Will stop.
@12voltvids I've been watching your repair videos and I'm wondering if you have a video about teardown of Sharp SG-155H record player with cassette deck and radio? I need to repair or replace the potentiometers and possibly the capacitors? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hi. I have 1218 rarely used. Recently I wanted to turn it on. After hitting start shifter the table slowly starts rotation but stop after 2 rounds. Any help? Thanks
Great video! I couldn't remove the nuts that hold the motor from the top plate, but I got my 1229q running again. Thanks! Any trick to get that half ring back on to the top of the spindle?
Hi, this was really helpful with my Dual 1229. But, all of a sudden, I had a problem! I was restoring the speed switch, and it worked out really well: the platter was spinning again and I could change the speed. after a few hours I went back on the turntable to fix some other things and it does not power on anymore. The strobe does not light and the motor does not spin anymore. Can you help me? I would be greateful. Thanks in advance!
Hi! So I just ended up with a 1229 from an estate and it's in need of some (what I think might be) serious work. The biggest issue right now is that none of the adjustments on the tone arm seem to be raising the cartridge up off of the surface of a standard 12 inch, 33 RPM disc. I say this because the gentleman who's estate I received it from was a 78RPM enthusiast and his entire collection was exclusively 78 shellac discs. I've replaced the stylus with a smaller diameter one, but the tone arm continues to have a lot of pressure even with all of the adjustments backed off. Would you have any suggestions as to what to look for to see if anything is worn/broken that might be causing this? This thing is such a beautiful headache but hopefully I can get it back to how it used to be at some point lol
I have a 1229Q I just acquired and I'm going through it. I noticed that I can't adjust the idler wheel pitch control calibration. It always runs too fast. Center the adjustment to the middle of the Null area, adjust the screw - can't get teh strobe to stop indicating "fast". Either the wheel is slipping, not rising high enough on the cone, or the wheel diameter has worn too small. I haven't tried rubber renew on it yet. Any thoughts on a solution?
Anybody know how to remove a Dual 1209 platter? I can't find a clip or fastening device of any kind. I want to inspect and lube the idler and motor bushings.
help :) the autostop works as it should, returns the tonearm, and at first the tonearm rises and does not go to the record ... bought a steuerpimpel, lubricated everything as it should ... but the tonearm does not go to the record :(
Great video! Can you please give oa tip on how to get rid of buzz...I guess its a ground wire issue (wire that doesn"t exist....I have 1219 with an old DIN connector...? thanx!!!
Very informative. I like that you explain every detail of what you are doing. Have you ever done restoration on a Dual 701? I couldn't find one in the internet. I need help with mine. I have one that quit working for a few years now. It won't start at all and I don't see a light on the strobe window. I did some of the cleaning and lubricating as you demonstrated on your video but still not working. I would appreciate for any suggestions from anyone. From what I have read from the forums how valuable this old Dual machines are, I am glad I did not throw it away. I will try to keep it if I can get it working again. Can you please tell me also the name of the cleaner that you used to clean the cartridge contacts? Thanks for the great video! I will keep searching.
jose lardizabal Years ago I found a non-working 701 at the thrift store and got it at half-price. It took a fuse replacement to get it to even operate - my dad (and the advice of fellows from the Steve Hoffman forums) helped me to restore it to optimum playing condition. Years later, the fuse burst again mid-operation, and it stopped working again. It turned out the reason the turntable seemed to routinely burn through fuses is because of a bad capacitor on the power box - I don't remember the exact specs, but we removed the old cap, soldered in a new one with the same specs, and it's been playing like a charm for close to 5 years now. Amazing how a little DIY work - plus the engineering background of my dad - helped to restore this masterpiece of German machinery to its original working condition... at a real bargain. Correct me if I'm wrong but the 701 was the very first direct drive turntable made in the Western world.... some crazy state of the art stuff by early 70's standards.
There is a .047 'across the line' cap that blows the T 0.125mA fuse. The 701 has a motor system that is unique and has more quality per square mm than any Rega ever saw. Any small part of that 701 would cost more than a complete Rega to make today. The motor circuit comprises of a regulated supply and a hall effect motor stage with 4 coils each driven by a transistor switched by the hall effect devices - The motor really is just so quiet and vibration free. The tonearm is excellent too with beautiful smooth gimbals and low mass along with a decoupling system in the counterweight that is so complex it has a greater part count than most complete turntables. Spend a bit to get it running well...Do yourself a favour.
OldMusicOnVinyl1 I read all of your threads you started about your Dual 701 in Steve Hoffman’s forums. That’s quite interesting how you revived your 701. I wish I could do that too on mine. I changed a blown fuse but I have to order another one because I bought the fast blow instead of the slow blow 125 mA 250V which is specified on a sticker under the cover of the power box. I tried the fast blow fuse but still did not start. I am not sure if the slow blow will make a difference. I have to figure out why I am not getting any power. I will keep searching until I get this machine running again. Someone wanted to buy this when I had a garage sale a few years ago. I am glad I kept it. Thanks .
You can just cut out the 0.047 cap and throw it away. It is a filter that has no effect on operation. If it is replaced it requires a special rating, X rated, not for pornography but safety..Then you can pop in your fast blow and it should work if you are lucky, even fast blow fuses can withstand overload. There may be a dozen other reasons for it not working, but this is most likely.
Martin D A . Thank you for your tips. I am not an electronic expert, perhaps my son can figure it out when he arrives next week. I might have to find a reputable local electronic repair shop to look at it. It will cost me a fortune to ship it to FixMyDual.com because it’s quite heavy. I live in western Canada.
I have a Noresco Dual rc 1015 trm (has a built in amp for tuner and tape deck), got it working thanks to your video - but when turned off the platter still spins. I have to unplug to make it stop. ny help would be appreciated
Is the album you have there called "Matching Tie and Handkerchief" if so it might be a double groove album, Try and see if you get the needle into the other groove to get a different introduction.
No it is the "Contractual obligation album: Only a single groove. I remember the double grove on Matching Tie. I never had that one, in fact I never bought a Monty python album to begin with. I ended up with this after I swapped my Steve Miller band record with a friend, and he warped it, so I told him he couldn't have his Monty record back until he bought me a new Steve Miler record. Needless to say I ended up with the Python.
12voltvids - I think you got the bad end of the bargain. Regular Python is much better for programming; the Monty Python just won't compile down to machine code. :)
I just inherited my father’s Dual 1229, this video is EXTREMELY helpful! Thank you!
No kidding!
(-8D
Thanks so much for this video. I've never opened up a motor on a table and this gave me the confidence to do it. The pulley now spins without a sound after some oiling 😊
Getting my 1229 back in shape and this splendid video is just the ticket. Thank you for the sound advice
Awesome video. I just purchased one of these turntables and was going to pay someone to do this. Seeing it done is much easier for me to comprehend vs reading a manual. Thanks so much
Thank you for this video. I've bought before many days a 1019 and the motor was a bit noisy. Now it's done. thanks!
I love it. A thing of beauty. Great job! Glue is great. I fixed a lot of Album jackets and sleeves with it.
you are very honest and do not do anything half way you are very caring when it comes to your patients you are very wise and very skilled and a fun teacher to watch thank you for all you do on you tube
I have been inspired by your choice of testing media on the last few turntable repairs you've done and have now purchased the Monty Python's Contractual Obligation Album. What a hoot!
Thanks for this, i have a dual 1214 and it was wobbly. was able to fix it and clean it on my own thanks to this video.
Just picked one up and this video helped. Had the stoobe paper making noise, and the cut off switch was giving me channel grief.
Running smooth now.
Great table!
Back when companies built things to last and not be disposed of every few years
How did you fix the cut off switch? I think that's an issue I'm having.
Great video! It helped me get the platter of a 1257. I believe the ‘tire’ is called an idler wheel. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great Video. I purchased a 1219 in the early 70's and had given up on it. Hopefully this video helps me get it going again
Followed your video and my 1229 is back in action. Thank you!
What a nicely made unit, i've tinkered with old cheap b.s.r decks and other basic types, but not one of those.
Grease is a pig for going solid, sometimes the turntable is locked solid and ive had to warm the tube up it sits on, once off its cleaning with meths, then a light coating of grease.
Most of the rollers lock up and the cast control cog with the tracks also locks solid.
Clever in the way they work, and satisfying when repaired :-D.
Dry grease causes most problems on these Dual, BSR and Garrard.
Ooow and i dont use wd40 for anything other than to loosen things, once loose i clean and apply real oil.
Wd40 is usefull, but knowing what it isnt is the key :-D
I have come into possession of a splendid Dual 1229 in exceptional aesthetic condition with a very particular transparent lid. If you don't want to remove everything, just push the front part and it will slide towards the back, opening a sufficient part to be able to operate the turntable; a very special feature. The turntable turns on, the strobe light works and you can hear the motor turning but nothing moves and the controls are stuck. I believe it is a fixable problem and this great video will help me to fix it. Thank you very much. Greetings from Italy.
Beautiful little motor.
Wow, that is a truly vintage table. All mechanical. Mine is vintage, but has some electronics in it for preamp and direct drive. No caps in this one to replace. Pretty cool.
I have a MUCH older dual than this that I will be working on when I service my old vintage Normende stereo system from the 1950's
Wow, Dave. Very informative video. The bench has a few batteries, tools, tape and other bits. Needs a little cleaning after that really hard work!
I like to put a dremel on the idler, before the rubber restore, using a fine drum sander. And a drop of oil on the idler bearing. Those speed adjusters are a big source of problems. Even with the shutoff issues.they used bubblegum for grease. I like to mix lithium grease with lanolin. Lanolin is really slick. I use it for fine tape recorder parts, and it lasts a very long time!
Ah those Germans
Thankful you have help me with my 1229. I have had many table in my life. But Dual moves my soul the best. I have 5 Shure Cartridges.
Great video, I'm overhauling a 1229Q in wonderful shape, thank you so much. Plus you like Monty Python and cats! Two thumbs up!
The bronze bushing the platter sits on should always be removed and cleaned, along with the well it sits in. A drop of oil in that area also. Thanks a million for making this video. Very well done!
Pretty birdy sounds. Good video. Very helpful.
Thanks for sharing your experience with these :)
AWESOME VID - thank you I'm giving my Dual a tune up after sending it in to a shop that actually gave it more problems! Sent it in w a bum RCA and they sent it back with a bum return arm. Unless they actually damaged something, I'm guessing I can just oil and grease this baby back up without their "help"
Thank you! I was so curious about the record you were testing with I shazamed it and added it to my apple music library! I now have some truly awesome stuff to make me laugh.
I restored my 1226 like this. Used the same lubricants. Waiting for my steurpimple to arrive. Also set the stylus geometry with the protractor. Not at intimidating as I thought it would be.
You are the best! Step by step, wow! ❤👍
What a great video! Thank you man. It was really enlightening. My old turntable has hope again.
This was extremely helpfull in helping get mine working again. The only thing that is not working is the turntable won't stop spinning afterwards or when you press stop.
Sticking switch
I had this issue initially with mine but I found that manually spinning the largest gear wheel eventually "reset" it. Also try clearing up old grease and replacing with new
@bliss1979 thanks for the advice I did try redoing all the greas and oil. When a record finishes or you push the stop the arm will return but the wheel keeps on turning and I am havei g trouble identifying what turns off the motor automaticlly.
@@lodshepherd945If you go to 18m 30seconds of this video, he explains the start and stop mechanism. For the motor to stop, the "catch" needs to be in the middle of the U shape. Flip your platter over and with the arm now on your left (but underneath), use your right index finger to spin the large cog/gear. This will get the mechanisms moving and you can see there's an arm that pushes into a small box and that turns the motor off.
It is shown on several dual videos. The pivot bearings get gummed up and stick.
I love your videos I love electronics and I learn a lot from watching .thank.s
Great work. The only thing missing is the lubrication of the tonearm joints. My arm is a little stiff. I can feel it. It wants to stay wherever it is, like an old dog.
Got to love the pliers for taking nuts off; some instruction (showing by example) of using the right tools for the job.
Do you have a problem with some decent hammer banging on a motor? LOL
Thank you for the tips.
I just rebuilt a 1228 for resale. Damn steuerpimple was missing. You can get them aftermarket out of Germany for around $10 for four.
this is very informative.. been thinking of buying a battered dual 601 from my neighbor and restore/ refurbish it, this video is going to help a lot. Thank you.
The old ones were good. The new garbage.
@@12voltvids of course have some bad experience with the new audio technica turntables
Love this video. I could never figure out how to get the tightly pressed motor halves apart. I want to lubricate one that I own.
I would love to see how to get the arm height sleeve washer on. It looks difficult!
Loosen counterweight to when arm is "balanced" in free space, set index ring to "0", and tighten counterweight to recommended force onto the cartridge, Conical Styli use about the same amount of force on "anti-skate". Eliptical, Hyper-Eliptical, and Shibata uses about 0.8g more because of more longitudinal contact with the groove.
Reading about this stuff is one thing, seeing it done is quite another. Thank you on behalf of the mechanically challenged. :)
I know this was 5 years ago, but as a note there were quite a lot of 33 1/3 10Inch records released also :). Great video. Very detailed. These old duals were and still are great turntables. They have a strong following which means finding information is available, even if it is hard to get parts for some of them now. I have the slightly more basic Dual 1015F and I restored it and it works beautifully. The speed on these is remarkably accurate considering it is just using what is essentially a shaded pole motor. +- 0.05% on mine consistently.
Yes and 33 1/3 7" records too. EP records. 2 tracks on each side.
@@12voltvids what do you think of the Dual 522 model? Is it any good?
Another excellent video like always.
Thank you
man I wish I still had my 1229. it was my first turntable
This is a good intro to Duals in general. Good video!
You are a fantastic knowledge Dual turntable tech, I have a Grace F-9 U cartridge
That's a nice looking turn table with the massive platter and strobe indicator/control all done up like that. I've been using the same motor oil on my own gear but wasn't sure what was good, so thanks.
The only thing I use wd40 for is to soak and clean out bearings that seem ready for the scrap pile if they are really full of junk (like other dried wd40 or dusty cigarette lunk) then I push wd40 out with compressed air, soak in good oil, more air and then oil normally. Not for everything, just the bearings that are extra horrible and for equipment that's going to be heavily used for things like preservation tape transfers.
Not that I leave "vapory" oil in tape transport roller bearings... but it has saved badly neglected broadcast equipment headed for the parts pile. Maybe there's a better way (like don't send the bearing flying across the room with the air!) but this seems to work; you can see the junk coming out. And the idea is that there shouldn't be any wd40 left in there or else I'm doing it wrong.
Great video. Thanks for posting
That was awesome. Thank you. I have a 701 that I brought to my repair guy..it still doesn't work. Where are you?? I want you to fix it 🙆🏻♂️
thank you
Just watched your entire restore of the Dual 1229 and it was enjoyable to watch.
If you ever have the opportunity and can find A Dual 601 and can
make another video documenting how to restore the Dual 601 that would be fantastic.
Great video! Thanks!!!
Thanks for this ! You saved the day
I have one of these. There used to be an old manufacturer authorized dealer/servicer in my area but he's long dead. I wish I bought my first Dual from him as a 1229 as it would probably still be great but left with a cheaper 1214. I have a 1229 now but it needs service. I'm not going to pull it apart!
Wow, a really thorough well-made video. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a 1229. You've basically shown just about all that needs to be done, maintenance-wise.
I picked up some Zoom Spout oil, which is made for motors at Lowes. Got a handy long spout to get into tight places. You should give it a try.
Regards, Tom
Yes these units are pretty much bullet proof, with the exception with what needed to be done on this. One one that stumps most people is how to get the motor apart. I am sure a few cringed when the hammer came out, but that is the only way to pop apart those motors, as an attempt to pry it apart will result in damage to the bearings. Tapping with a hammer will separate the halves and not put any lateral stress on the rotor or shaft.
I HAVE DUAL turntable model 1214 the motor is slow lose power also I oiled but what have to do SHAMIM from karachi
So cool to see these. I just got a 1264 in beautiful condition. Only issue is the belt doesn't quite shift to 45 speed. Not sure if it's the belt, or something else, but mechanically, everything is in tip-top shape.
Justin: if you still have the problem, there’s a cam that shifts the belt. This may be gummed. I would check that. I have a 510 that has this cam.
Fantastic step by step! With this video I resolved my own issues I was having with my 1229. Any chance you will be doing a 1019? Cheers!
Thanks for sharing that video ... Hugs
I have a 1229 that I bought Brand New as part of my 'sound system'... along with a pair of JBL L100s & a Sherwood 7300 receiver. Recently, I put my system back together again, but the 1229 was not performing correctly. At the repair shop the first verdict was: "everything looks great, it just needs a clean and lube and a new stylus as the old one was bent". They would have to special order the stylus to match my old one. A couple of months later, I call to see where the repair was At, as far as getting in the new needle? It was: "expected in this week". Now the verdict IS: "the friction pad is worn smooth" (as you refer to at 14:40 in your video). AND THUS my turntable tone-arm will No Longer perform correctly... it will just sit there at the end of an album side, so I will have to manually return the tone-arm to its stand.
NOW... I have a Question for You: IF I only used my 1229 sparingly ... would the fact that It is Now 'worn smooth' have been something Very Apparent (OR not so apparent) with the first verdict months ago that everything "looked great, it just needed cleaned & lubed"?
After watching your video I have a question as to whether or not my "worn out" issue is actually MORE one of someone putting lube Exactly where you advise NOT TO - on the friction pad??
Your thoughts Please on How Much "use" does it take to "wear out" a frction pad??
The steurpimple does eventually wear out, but it is made of silicone and does last a long time.
@@12voltvids Thank you very much for your quick response. Can a "steurpimple" be replaced? IF SO, Where might one find another one in good shape?
@@kchambers8102 yes it can. They are available as one of my customers brought a few in for his turntables. Google it and you will find sellers. They they push onto the spring loaded mount. I have a video showing the replacement of one.
@@12voltvids SUPER 12VOLTS ! You just MADE my Day! Just Google "steurpimple"?
My repair guys said the steuerpimpel is in good shape but the friction plate, that it rubs against, is worn smooth. I saw another TH-cam video where that person was saying: that if he tightened down a screw at the opposite end of the long arm (that has the friction pad ? at the other end of it) -- it forces the pad up... (into the steuerpimpel, I assume?) and helps in making to tone arm complete its action at the end of the record.
I know it was a Dual turntable but not sure if it was a 1229. Does that sound right to you?
And can the friction pad be replaced? Or acid etched, sanded or roughed up enough - to no longer be "too smooth" for the control arm to do its job correctly and return itself?
Great videos
Was that Elmer's glue that you used on the strobe ring?
Holy moley! 47k subscribers! I remember when you just hit 7k subscribers!
Biggest problem i have run into is that the STOP selector quits functioning. Even with the table working fine I rarely find one with a working STOP fuction.
I may be purchasing a 1229q this Wednesday, a bit nervous. Will be matched with my heathkit w4-am tube amps.
Good stuff!
YOU SHOULD HAVE BEEN A PROFESSOR....I TRULY ENJOY ALL OF YOUR VIDEOS! YOU KNOW HOW TO CAPIVATE YOUR AUDIENCE.
Hi. Thanks for these wonderful Dual videos. I've been loving my 1245 since I bought it the 80's. I just followed your video, made a few adjustments, cleaned and greased everything. Now I'm sure it will outlast me! One little quirk has just started. Auto arm drop moves to correct position... starts to drop but then moves towards the center of the record about 1/2" while lowering to the record. Both 45 and 33. Any idea what adjustment I can make to have the tonearm just drop straight down? Thanks for any advice you might have.
Just got one! Thank you for this video! I have a problem anyway... Sound only coming from one channel...
Check headshell connection, muting switch ar the cam gear, cartridge, and wires in tone arm.
Thank you!!!
If anyone with a stacker spindle comes across this video, it’s a twist 20° and pull to get it out. There’s a set screw on a spindle and an L shaped groove that it locks into. Don’t go crazy trying to yank it out. It comes out easily if you’re doing it right. It only took me 2 hours to figure it out...
Thanks for the video, Gives me the confidence to dig in a 1009 i`ve had for ages(on top of a cupboard). Also loved the monty python record.....😂🤣
Complete shot in the dark here. I just was given a dual 1229 from my wifes grandma. A mouse turned it into a nest and ate the tone arm wires. no other damage. I'm going to do that grease refresh and cleaning and it should fix most of my issues. However I temp attached 4 wires to the cassette while I wait for the correct parts to fix it and I get a lot of noise off the tone arm when touched. Is there a ground wire I am missing?
Im guessing my idler wheel not pushing in 33, no fine adjustment for the speed, and tone arm not behaving at all (wants to stay outside the record no matter the size), are all due to lube issues.
Good video overall, I'm very appreciative for all I learned. Having said that, opening the motor by hitting the end of the shaft with a hammer is a VERY BAD idea. I knew better but did it anyway and deformed the end of the shaft, thus rendering it useless. A much better approach (based on more research) is to use a long-nose pliers in reverse (i.e. nose in closed position between halves of motor and pull open handles to pry open). Also, when closing the motor, rather than pounding it with a hammer l used a couple of C-clamps to bring the halves together evenly. Again, thanks for the video because I learned a lot and never would have tried to get in there in the first place without seeing this...but you owe me for the motor:)
That's because you "hit" it too hard. I use very little force, more of a tap. A plastic mallet is a better choice, but I don't have one. I have opened probably 100 or more motors this way and not damaged a single one. You did one and wrecked it.
@@12voltvids I tried to tap it, but it didn't work for me!?! Anyway, great video and thanks for giving me the courage to get started. I now have a perfectly working 1229 and a lot more knowledge than when I started. The small amount I paid for a motor on eBay (which I oiled and rebuilt with the method described above) was totally worth it!!!
Good informative video. I don’t know how much information about specs and maintenance guidance was available six years ago but nowadays there are all sort of maintenance manuals available on line with factory specifications for servicing these turntables. The only challenge that is to find a suitable replacement to some of the recommended lubricants by the manufacturers. That should complement very well with this video (as in using grease on friction points such as the pitch control, and the section around the cam). Also, since WD40 was used, it is likely that some of it got everywhere else that could eventually gum-up some components of the mechanism
You are assuming that I care more for this old crap than i I do. These old German record changers were never considered great back in the 70s. We used to condem and toss them out 40 years ago. When someone brings me a turntable they want it running for 30.00. Yup that what i make from most if these. People want them to either listen to s few old records or want them in working order so they can flog them off on someone else and try to make some money from all the hype surrounding anything vinyl. If someone said to me I'll spend 500 for you to restore this I would put more effort in but those people don't exist. They may appear to exist in internet posts but i have never met one in the 40+ years I have been servivibg this crap.
@@12voltvids😂that has got to be the most brutal and accurate summary of the Dual.
Saying crap but can even restore the motor. Real crap brakes by opening.
My parents had a 1218 and a 109 in a Viking/Clairtone Console. Both beautiful and tough. Everyone wants the easy way out. Just spray your troubles away. and Sit on my ace, WTF. LOL
Replacing the standard Dual mat with an upgraded mat, there are many types including glass, acrylic, various plastics and composites with recessed centres and when used with a record clamp provides a noticeable sonic improvement over the Dual mat. Platter Pad and Platter Matter are two such mats. The mat/clamp combination effectively damps out vinyl and platter resonances that the cartridge picks up when tracing the record groove.
FYI Actually most automatic turntables such as the Dual above can be used in a semi auto mode and as such the tonearm can be moved manually to any location on the record without damaging the tonearm! These tonearms are designed to move freely in manual mode....I know I own 5 of these Duals. The only automatics I would not move the tonearm manually on are ones that use microprocessor controls such as a Sony PS-X600 ,Yamaha PX-3,or Denon DP47F, these are equipped with directional touch controls for this purpose.
Don't forget linear tracking. But then again, they have directional buttons as well, but right. Any of these mechanical automatic turntables can be operated in manual mode. Why do you think they have a cue level on them?
12voltvids Yep didnt forget those either my Yamaha PX-3 is a linear tracker. Previous poster didn't seem to have clue about automatic turntables. It really kills me about some folks that post comments on things they really don't know anything about....LOL.
Anyway great video....I have a few Non working Duals that I want to get to .....this video should be a great help....thanks!
Where did you learn to work on those? I bought a new 1229 in 74', never thought it could be repaired without a German Tech. lol.... I'd have better luck figuring out Apollo 13 . I do use 3 in 1 on my Fender Vibratone, just a drop or 2 on the felt washer ever 5 years or so.
Good Job, I was looking for a new turntable for some vintage vinyl. Might be better off getting a Vintage turntable instead.
Thanks for this video which I think is very helpful to service my old man's Dual 1019. I understand you're using 3in1 lubricant for bearings and pivots. What lubricant-grease you are using for the pitch control mechanism in this video? Thanks for you help in advance! Regards Aron, Germany
super , greetings from the schwarzwald .
Fantastic
Thank you so much/
Just totally Wowed
Hellon
Thanks for the vido. I have used it to help me service a similar turn table Sony 5520.
I have created a new problem I'm hoping you can help me.
About an inch in to a record the need slides backwards accords the disk back towards the edge of the platter.
Do you have any advice on how to rectify this
Hello, this video is awesome! Super usefull and most of it is really well explained. I just get a 1229 wich is about the same construction and seems to be the same motor. The motor makes a weird noise that I could compare to an electrique "buzz" like some neon lights can do sometimes . The noise is coming from the motor and is present wether the motor turns alone or with the idler or plate. Have you ever seen and ear something like that? (I did remove, open and oil the motor like in the video but absolutely nothing change) Thanks a lot for your work and your eventual answer
Hello, thanks for your lesson on this. I have my father dual and just did a lot of what you mentioned here. Could you please advise me about the mechanism of vinyl rotation ( 33-45-78) One. Mine is not working well. The motor is working but when i Place the plate on and if it is in 45, it Will stop.
@12voltvids I've been watching your repair videos and I'm wondering if you have a video about teardown of Sharp SG-155H record player with cassette deck and radio? I need to repair or replace the potentiometers and possibly the capacitors? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Would it be better to disassemble the cam and lever assembly for better cleaning and lubricating?
Hi. I have 1218 rarely used. Recently I wanted to turn it on. After hitting start shifter the table slowly starts rotation but stop after 2 rounds. Any help? Thanks
Great video! I couldn't remove the nuts that hold the motor from the top plate, but I got my 1229q running again. Thanks! Any trick to get that half ring back on to the top of the spindle?
Circlip pliers is the tool. Good tweezer work will do it too :)
Is that a custom made plinth? I really like the shape of it!
Hi, this was really helpful with my Dual 1229. But, all of a sudden, I had a problem! I was restoring the speed switch, and it worked out really well: the platter was spinning again and I could change the speed. after a few hours I went back on the turntable to fix some other things and it does not power on anymore. The strobe does not light and the motor does not spin anymore. Can you help me? I would be greateful. Thanks in advance!
Hi! So I just ended up with a 1229 from an estate and it's in need of some (what I think might be) serious work. The biggest issue right now is that none of the adjustments on the tone arm seem to be raising the cartridge up off of the surface of a standard 12 inch, 33 RPM disc. I say this because the gentleman who's estate I received it from was a 78RPM enthusiast and his entire collection was exclusively 78 shellac discs. I've replaced the stylus with a smaller diameter one, but the tone arm continues to have a lot of pressure even with all of the adjustments backed off. Would you have any suggestions as to what to look for to see if anything is worn/broken that might be causing this? This thing is such a beautiful headache but hopefully I can get it back to how it used to be at some point lol
Hello 12voltkids, is it possible that you list the liquids and grease you used? It would be very helpfull for me.
I have a 1229Q I just acquired and I'm going through it. I noticed that I can't adjust the idler wheel pitch control calibration. It always runs too fast. Center the adjustment to the middle of the Null area, adjust the screw - can't get teh strobe to stop indicating "fast". Either the wheel is slipping, not rising high enough on the cone, or the wheel diameter has worn too small. I haven't tried rubber renew on it yet.
Any thoughts on a solution?
I have the 1229. My tone arm lift lever does not stay up by itself. Any ideas on how to fix it?
Those were quality players
Anybody know how to remove a Dual 1209 platter? I can't find a clip or fastening device of any kind. I want to inspect and lube the idler and motor bushings.
help :) the autostop works as it should, returns the tonearm, and at first the tonearm rises and does not go to the record ... bought a steuerpimpel, lubricated everything as it should ... but the tonearm does not go to the record :(
Great video! Can you please give oa tip on how to get rid of buzz...I guess its a ground wire issue (wire that doesn"t exist....I have 1219 with an old DIN connector...? thanx!!!
Ground the metal chassis to your stereo amp. You can attach to the chassis anywhere. Most have a tab you can clip onto.
@@12voltvids thank you! will do and let you know
Very informative. I like that you explain every detail of what you are doing. Have you ever done restoration on a Dual 701? I couldn't find one in the internet. I need help with mine. I have one that quit working for a few years now. It won't start at all and I don't see a light on the strobe window. I did some of the cleaning and lubricating as you demonstrated on your video but still not working. I would appreciate for any suggestions from anyone. From what I have read from the forums how valuable this old Dual machines are, I am glad I did not throw it away. I will try to keep it if I can get it working again. Can you please tell me also the name of the cleaner that you used to clean the cartridge contacts? Thanks for the great video! I will keep searching.
jose lardizabal Years ago I found a non-working 701 at the thrift store and got it at half-price. It took a fuse replacement to get it to even operate - my dad (and the advice of fellows from the Steve Hoffman forums) helped me to restore it to optimum playing condition. Years later, the fuse burst again mid-operation, and it stopped working again. It turned out the reason the turntable seemed to routinely burn through fuses is because of a bad capacitor on the power box - I don't remember the exact specs, but we removed the old cap, soldered in a new one with the same specs, and it's been playing like a charm for close to 5 years now. Amazing how a little DIY work - plus the engineering background of my dad - helped to restore this masterpiece of German machinery to its original working condition... at a real bargain. Correct me if I'm wrong but the 701 was the very first direct drive turntable made in the Western world.... some crazy state of the art stuff by early 70's standards.
There is a .047 'across the line' cap that blows the T 0.125mA fuse. The 701 has a motor system that is unique and has more quality per square mm than any Rega ever saw. Any small part of that 701 would cost more than a complete Rega to make today. The motor circuit comprises of a regulated supply and a hall effect motor stage with 4 coils each driven by a transistor switched by the hall effect devices - The motor really is just so quiet and vibration free. The tonearm is excellent too with beautiful smooth gimbals and low mass along with a decoupling system in the counterweight that is so complex it has a greater part count than most complete turntables. Spend a bit to get it running well...Do yourself a favour.
OldMusicOnVinyl1 I read all of your threads you started about your Dual 701 in Steve Hoffman’s forums. That’s quite interesting how you revived your 701. I wish I could do that too on mine. I changed a blown fuse but I have to order another one because I bought the fast blow instead of the slow blow 125 mA 250V which is specified on a sticker under the cover of the power box. I tried the fast blow fuse but still did not start. I am not sure if the slow blow will make a difference. I have to figure out why I am not getting any power. I will keep searching until I get this machine running again. Someone wanted to buy this when I had a garage sale a few years ago. I am glad I kept it. Thanks .
You can just cut out the 0.047 cap and throw it away. It is a filter that has no effect on operation. If it is replaced it requires a special rating, X rated, not for pornography but safety..Then you can pop in your fast blow and it should work if you are lucky, even fast blow fuses can withstand overload. There may be a dozen other reasons for it not working, but this is most likely.
Martin D A . Thank you for your tips. I am not an electronic expert, perhaps my son can figure it out when he arrives next week. I might have to find a reputable local electronic repair shop to look at it. It will cost me a fortune to ship it to FixMyDual.com because it’s quite heavy. I live in western Canada.
I have a Noresco Dual rc 1015 trm (has a built in amp for tuner and tape deck), got it working thanks to your video - but when turned off the platter still spins. I have to unplug to make it stop. ny help would be appreciated
Switch is sticking.
Is the album you have there called "Matching Tie and Handkerchief" if so it might be a double groove album, Try and see if you get the needle into the other groove to get a different introduction.
No it is the "Contractual obligation album:
Only a single groove. I remember the double grove on Matching Tie. I never had that one, in fact I never bought a Monty python album to begin with. I ended up with this after I swapped my Steve Miller band record with a friend, and he warped it, so I told him he couldn't have his Monty record back until he bought me a new Steve Miler record. Needless to say I ended up with the Python.
12voltvids OK no problem
12voltvids - I think you got the bad end of the bargain. Regular Python is much better for programming; the Monty Python just won't compile down to machine code. :)