That loose piece of paper is just packing material that should have been removed during set-up. You can toss it. I know it's so because I read it on line. Any bloke who uses WD-40 on vintage audio equipment otta know that.
I hate to say it, TOO! WD-40 , is forbidden around Any Audio gear! It is a Penetrant and “Could” harm the gear. I know it was freeing a stuck part,,, (There are Safer solutions, available) I’ve got a 1229, l am working on,too!! Great TT ! Thanks for your video, just what I needed to See 👍🎼
@@maxcosby8166WD-40 is a great lubricant that I’ve used to successfully repair a few turntables. The big problem with WD-40 is that a novice will spray everything which is disastrous and can ruin the turntable beyond repair. WD-40 is ideal for metal-to-metal mechanisms. But if it makes contact with any rubber parts, the results could be disastrous!
I own a DUAL 1229 for more than 40 years now. It is a great piece of gear, very reliable and with the right needle-system you get an amazing sound out of your records. I never had any problem with the turntable, never. I never wanted some of the more modern machines out there. My turntable lives in a slightly different wooden case and has a different top. DUAL built a lot of different cases and tops over the years. This turntable was sold by other companies with their entire designs and labels, too. You can find a lot of versions out there, but the machine was always the same. Thank you for bringing this technical gem to life again. Its condition when you started your work really hurt my heart. I hope this machine has got a second live in the home of someone who deserves this fantastic turntable. Peace.
Hey there, thanks for your awesome comment! I agree, this is such a solid and well made turntable. Not many electrical items today can take such abuse, and then restore so nicely.
@@TheBasementChannel Could having the brown "wood" casing in the wrong position/at the wrong height be why my dust cover slides back and forth while closed? I drop it in the groove and the back but nothing seems to prevent it from sliding forwards and backwards ie hanging off the front of the whole unit with properly closed of pushed too far back so that the front flap doesn't close all the way to 90 degrees.
INteresting, I would have thought that anyone older than 45 or so (Gen X) has seen a ton of strobes on record players before. Even the cheap ones used to have them. I enjoy my 1229Q and will keep it spinning as long as I'm on the planet.
Sorry for butting in with my two cents on the matter but while WD-40 can act like a lubricant, it's a poor one. A light sewing machine oil is usually what the manufacturers recommend. The one I use has a long needle like applicator tip. Great for getting into tight places and adding a single drop to whatever it recommended. If doing maintenance on their turntable owners should always read the instruction manual to see if there is a recommended lubricant. If you've misplaced your manual there are a few websites that let you download a digital copy. That's a good tip on using the 1khz test tone to judge speed accuracy and wow and flutter. There are plenty of test records out there but they can be expensive so look for a used one. Otherwise finding some music with a long stable note will work in a pinch. There are apps to use your phone to do the same sort of test but you place the phone on the turntable, which seems wrong to me somehow. The added weight. Not centering the phone and it causing inaccuracies. I think an app that uses the phone's camera to judge when a marker of some sort like the record's label makes a revolution. I forgot all about those idler wheel turntables. The last time I saw one was probably in the '70s. I worry about what time has done to the drive wheel. Belts age so I would think the wheel material would too. I still have my first good turntable that I bought back in the '70s, the Philips GA-212. I rescued it from the garage this year. Everything looks good but I'm having trouble getting the touch sensors working. I still use my 'The AR Turntable' from '84. My last old turntable is a Braun PS-50. That monster is built like a tank. Heavy platter, very well put together mechanism. I lost the headshell and debating buying a used one because they are so expensive and usually have to be shipped from Germany. I make do with one of the regular plug in headshells but it messes with the cartridge geometry.
@greatpix WD-40 is no longer just the original water dispersant, but used as a brand name for a variety of products including lubricants. If you watch the video you will see that he is using a dry PTFE lubricant under the WD-40 brand, not the original WD-40 product. I’m not advocating his use of a sprayed lubricant, which can end up being spread indiscriminately. Just noting though that in this case he was actually using a lubricant not a water dispersant.
What a beautiful Dual record player! German solidity and built like a tank! I only play my records at home on Dual record players. I have the 1009, 1019, 1219 and 701. All beautiful players with record change function, except the 701, which is also one of the few direct drive players from Dual. The long spindle for 33rpm can still be found, the one for 45rpm is quite rare. Good luck with your channel!
The 1229 is a great turntable. I have a 721 that I bought in 1978 and for the most part, it has been trouble free since I bought it. I did replace the strobe light with a LED version and I replaced the steuerpimpel that goes bad in them, but it works and sounds beautiful : }
@@TheBasementChannel thank you for the care and the knowledge you share, I subbed and will start watching your channel every sleepless night from now on :)
There was oxidation on the contacts for the cartridge mount and also on the tone arm side. It’s an area that always needs cleaning so both channels of the cartridge pass the signal correctly.
Great video. I've redone 30 + turntables and the only ones I couldn't fix were wheel drive, BSR specifically. Might try a Dual after seeing your video.
Nice! The only turntables I couldn't fix were linear tracking and those with all sorts of electronic features, like Sony Biotracer and certain B&O Beogram. The required proprietary parts were basically unobtainium where I live.
job well done. So you've got an orange record, a photograph of a man on the cover wearing a wig dancing to disco. Oh look, I would've repurposed the lid into some kind of sci-fi costume headdress for the next sydney mardi gras
Great video and great save ! If you’ve never used the clear gorilla tape .., it works wonders and even though it might look a little crude over some of that cracking , it’s quite strong - I used it on the inside of a cracked wind shield after prepping properly and it worked great .., cheers
The two issues with this old table. The Dearing ring which sits directly under the tonearm gimble( they break) second, the stauerpimple a tiny rubber cup on a post that the lifting paddle moves to set the tonearm down -lift at end of record. I'm working with some engineers on the ring replacement. Also, the cartridge sled ( where connections from cart to tonearm are made) goes really bad on wiring. There are sellers on ebay for new sleds.
WD40 is NOT a lubricant. It can be used as a penetrant but the excess should be wiped off. "WD" means Water Displacement. It was created to clean off electrical components which had been exposed to water. The silicone in it may lubricate a little, but it is more of a preservative/protectant. If not replaced, the idler wheel should be cleaned and treated with a rejuvenating chemical. Before it's done, anything that spins should have the bearings lubricated with electric motor oil or some 20w non-detergent oil. Any metal part which slides on other aluminum part should be cleaned and then re-lubricated with grease(never use white grease). Until you do this, you are NOT done. Let the TT sit and it will freeze up again. In repairing the hinged part of the dust cover, on the bottom side, carefully hold the pieces together which hinge and apply a good quality of clear package sealing tape. Metal hinges will scratch the topside of the cover as it slides back and forth. You might even want to glue thin pieces of felt to the underside of the part which slides on top of the other(plus glue felt to the backside of the door which hinges up as it slides back on the dust cover.
I have used sewing machine oil and clock oil watch oil where I'm not sure if even sewing amachine oil will be too much. I've only used d40 for cleaning big rusty chunky metal whcih it does work good for that. Keeps them safe from rusting again after cleaning but for other small things I've used watch and clock oil and not a lot of that either cos more is not always better. Maybe these would be usable or is there a specific oil for jobs like this?
@tombjornebark oh it will work wonders on all kinds of things. For a while. The problem arises when it turns into a stick horrible film that clogs your parts and forms this plastic film over everything it's gotten in contact with which if youre sprayed it into something you may not easily get out if you cant reach it. You can dissolve it again and get it off but best not put it on there in the first place.... if you find things which have had d40 put on them in ignorance its a real nightmare to have to get it off and things do exist that work well and don't cause it to go gummy so why do it. Its just going to be fine for a while then have to be redone properly. There's nothing worse when doing repairs on anything than having to undo the bad repairs of somone who came before.
@automatedelectronics6062 The original WD-40 was intended to temporarily coat sheet metal to protect from corrosion. It leaves a thin layer of mineral oil, as the rest of its contents evaporates. Whilst the oil is technically a lubricant, and can act as such, it is not sufficient for proper lubrication, and parts should be properly lubricated if used as a freeing agent. It subsequently was found to have other uses, including the one you describe. The original WD-40 does not contain silicone, although many of the competing products do. WD-40 do make a silicone lubricant in their specialist range.
I wonder why everyone else just doesn’t use a spray lubricant? It seems to work perfect! Everyone else took it apart cleaned with a cleaning solution and sprayed with lithium grease? Which is probably better! But this way works just fine!
This guy is just clueless... The Dual 1229 is no ordinary idler drive. Its one of the best turntables of all time, wow and flutter is on par with direct drives, built to last forever, with precision bearings and balanced tonearm. Belt drives cant hold a candle to it. There is a reason why people pay hundreds for a good one.
Oh dear. I fixed a few of these…to work on a Dual you really must know things. Wd-40 is a no no! You should use the originals with them always. And always completely remove and clean each part. That rubber they used for multi is hard as rock for certain. I still have the cs40 I use daily
The problem is nobody is fixing these things. We are all looking to youtube to figure it out cos we just want to hear our records. And even if he's busted it up from a collectbales point of view he can play records and thats all he actually wants to do. Thats all most pepple want to do. I am 100 percent into conserving original workings and the past is precious to me but I can also understand that in practical terms people just want to hear their records. I have something like this and I dont know what it is. I have so many old record tape hifi players about 15 of them including radios etc. I cant find a soul to even look at them. My grandads old radio gramophone I also hv eprom about 1930s and it has massive valves and stuff. I am not trusting that to the only repair company because they want things posted to them and they are a big company I just aren't trusting them at all. I want a guy in a small shed who's at least 60 years old and who's grandad taught him when he was 5 but he doesn't exist. Lol.
@CaiusRo I dunno about record players but sewing machine oil is sometimes OK on old things. Doesnt gum up like wd40. I only use wd40 for cleaning big chunky metal things now and use sewing machine oil for anything I'm notnsure of. Also clock oil and watch oil seem very safe so maybe those would work? I mean please gogole that because I actually don't know and have never fixed a record player its just a suggestion you could look into.
Are you a Dual expert ? O.K. Here's another "Clueless" person. Dual 1237 2nd gen, only the start function works, the stop does not. None of my 3 Dual 1237's stop function work. Yes, I've cleaned and lubed everything with no success. That I can see there's no bent or jammed parts O.K., what's the problem......If this man is clueless, let's see if you can diagnose the problem.
I have a question. My turntable is like a 70s United audio. It looks a lot like this. No belt. The problem is it won’t quit spinning and there isn’t any paper under the platter.
Sometimes these turntables have adjustments than can be made to determine the stop point for the motor. Not sure how to fix the missing paper though, how good are you with a sharpie? 😆
It’s probably a 1219. Pretty much the same unit minus the strobe. It just needs a good cleaning of the auto mechanism to remove old dried up grease. Then I’m sure it would stop spinning when it cycles through. The 7.8 lb platter will spin for almost 2 minutes from its own inertia when it’s running as it should. So don’t expect the platter to stop immediately when the motor shuts off.
Hi, While watching this TH-cam about repairing the old Dual turntable, I couldn’t help but notice an old Apple iMac G4 sitting on the shelf behind you? Just wondering if you have done a repair on it? I have one that I bought new in the early 2000’s. It no longer works but I’ve kept it because of its iconic design. I believe mine has a power supply issue but I doubt that there are any parts still available these days. Having said that, it would be awesome to restore it sometime. Anyway, just thought I’d ask. Cheers,
I have that model, but it's a 1229-Q. The "Q" stands for "quiet". It was released shortly after the 1229, in the middle 1970s. Haven't worked on it, yet. Thanks for this video.
Lol. Q stands for Quad. As in Quadraphonic, 4 channel sound capable. As long as you had a quad amp as well. Pretty much a marketing gimmick. For being idler drives and automatic changer turntables all the idler drive Duals were already amazingly Quiet.
@@michaelscottcutler3627 TH-cam wont allow links, but you can find out more if you head over the vinyl engine website. The chuckster is correct in that the Q stands for quadrophonic, but I'm not sure calling it a gimmick is correct. There are a handful of fans of CD-4 who really like the fact that you can get discreet, four channel sound out of a record. That said, doing so has its challenges, and it's obviously been completely replaced by modern surround sound setups.
What's with the rotten Duals nowadays? Why do people pay hundreds of dollars for an old mediocre turntable like these? 3:25 Well, it has an idler wheel, which is also rubber that deteriorates over time, just like a belt. 6:18 No, you're not supposed to use WD40 on a motor! 16:08 Why leave a part of the old wire in place? Might as well solder it directly to the switch. Btw, I recommend using some rubber restorer on the idler wheel. It makes the rubber fresh and improves traction on the platter, which improves speed stability.
Have one of these that is sitting in a box in my garage as well. Everything works, apparently I can just lube it up and toss a new stylus on and I will be good to go.
On the positive side - it has a heavy platter. On the negative side - it has a wheel that drives the platter and not a belt. A wheel usually transfers more motor noise over into the music. I did hope that this actually had a Thorens mechanism in it.
Great job, normally they freeze up in hard grease and that's a much worse job to do and time consuming, keep saving these old machines that are much better than todays rubbish
Actually the belt drive was considered an inferior drive system and made turn tables easier and cheaper to produce: lighter platters and weaker (cheaper) motors. Dual only improved on their idler drive turntables, which were and still are considered superb, with even better (more quiet) direct drives in the early 70's. The 701 was the first and is still the best turntable Dual ever produced before it went belly up. The 1228 and 1229 shown here were the top of the line idler drives. When Japan flooded the Western markets with cheap and rather good direct drives in the 70's it was game over for Dual. The CD put the final nail in the coffin in the 80's.. That's it, in a nutshell.
2 minutes of using Google and you would treat this Legendary piece totally different. You did also a very crappy job at the Audio Cable. You snipped it of and extend it littarary 3 inches next to the solder joints. No cleaning of old grease, just using WD40. This is working now but not after some month anymore. I refubished hundreds of them. And almost all have the same problems. Take some time to fix, but this is one of the best player you can get. Even for his age!
@@TheBasementChannel Nice fix on the cover. Those sliding covers are popular,but they get damaged after 50yrs. This is gonna give other users nice idea "how to" diy fix. Thumb up 👍
Hey there, I came across your channel while scrolling through You Tube. I thought there were only rude Jackasses here in the States, turns out they’re EVERYWHERE! Keep on tinkering…✌️
WD-40 works to remove old oil but it is not the best in these cases. You have already determined that the turntable is repairable, now you have to do some research, watch some videos on TH-cam and do a proper job. I am not going to criticize for the sake of criticizing, but that turntable deserves better treatment than what you are giving it (if your client is willing to pay of course).
WD-40 bashing is quite common on TH-cam without actually looking at the particular product being used, or how it is being used. It’s quite clear on the video that it’s dry PTFE lubricant.
That loose piece of paper is just packing material that should have been removed during set-up. You can toss it. I know it's so because I read it on line. Any bloke who uses WD-40 on vintage audio equipment otta know that.
Finally, a proper expert has shown up in the comments to school us! Thanks for dropping by!
I hate to say it, TOO!
WD-40 , is forbidden around Any Audio gear! It is a Penetrant and
“Could” harm the gear. I know it was freeing a stuck part,,,
(There are Safer solutions, available) I’ve got a 1229, l am working on,too!! Great TT !
Thanks for your video, just what I needed to See 👍🎼
Sorry, That was the strobe scope, not packing paper.
@@chass5438 Yep, the 1229 has an illuminated window at the top where you should be able to view the strobe and correct speed.
@@maxcosby8166WD-40 is a great lubricant that I’ve used to successfully repair a few turntables. The big problem with WD-40 is that a novice will spray everything which is disastrous and can ruin the turntable beyond repair.
WD-40 is ideal for metal-to-metal mechanisms. But if it makes contact with any rubber parts, the results could be disastrous!
Thanks a ton for your continuous support ❤
I own a DUAL 1229 for more than 40 years now. It is a great piece of gear, very reliable and with the right needle-system you get an amazing sound out of your records. I never had any problem with the turntable, never. I never wanted some of the more modern machines out there. My turntable lives in a slightly different wooden case and has a different top. DUAL built a lot of different cases and tops over the years. This turntable was sold by other companies with their entire designs and labels, too. You can find a lot of versions out there, but the machine was always the same.
Thank you for bringing this technical gem to life again. Its condition when you started your work really hurt my heart. I hope this machine has got a second live in the home of someone who deserves this fantastic turntable.
Peace.
Hey there, thanks for your awesome comment! I agree, this is such a solid and well made turntable. Not many electrical items today can take such abuse, and then restore so nicely.
That plinth has 2 height settings to allow that dust cover to be used with the long spindle.
Yes I wondered if that was the case
@@TheBasementChannel Could having the brown "wood" casing in the wrong position/at the wrong height be why my dust cover slides back and forth while closed? I drop it in the groove and the back but nothing seems to prevent it from sliding forwards and backwards ie hanging off the front of the whole unit with properly closed of pushed too far back so that the front flap doesn't close all the way to 90 degrees.
INteresting, I would have thought that anyone older than 45 or so (Gen X) has seen a ton of strobes on record players before. Even the cheap ones used to have them. I enjoy my 1229Q and will keep it spinning as long as I'm on the planet.
Sorry for butting in with my two cents on the matter but while WD-40 can act like a lubricant, it's a poor one. A light sewing machine oil is usually what the manufacturers recommend. The one I use has a long needle like applicator tip. Great for getting into tight places and adding a single drop to whatever it recommended.
If doing maintenance on their turntable owners should always read the instruction manual to see if there is a recommended lubricant. If you've misplaced your manual there are a few websites that let you download a digital copy.
That's a good tip on using the 1khz test tone to judge speed accuracy and wow and flutter. There are plenty of test records out there but they can be expensive so look for a used one. Otherwise finding some music with a long stable note will work in a pinch. There are apps to use your phone to do the same sort of test but you place the phone on the turntable, which seems wrong to me somehow. The added weight. Not centering the phone and it causing inaccuracies. I think an app that uses the phone's camera to judge when a marker of some sort like the record's label makes a revolution.
I forgot all about those idler wheel turntables. The last time I saw one was probably in the '70s. I worry about what time has done to the drive wheel. Belts age so I would think the wheel material would too.
I still have my first good turntable that I bought back in the '70s, the Philips GA-212. I rescued it from the garage this year. Everything looks good but I'm having trouble getting the touch sensors working. I still use my 'The AR Turntable' from '84. My last old turntable is a Braun PS-50. That monster is built like a tank. Heavy platter, very well put together mechanism. I lost the headshell and debating buying a used one because they are so expensive and usually have to be shipped from Germany. I make do with one of the regular plug in headshells but it messes with the cartridge geometry.
I use singer
@greatpix
WD-40 is no longer just the original water dispersant, but used as a brand name for a variety of products including lubricants. If you watch the video you will see that he is using a dry PTFE lubricant under the WD-40 brand, not the original WD-40 product.
I’m not advocating his use of a sprayed lubricant, which can end up being spread indiscriminately. Just noting though that in this case he was actually using a lubricant not a water dispersant.
What a beautiful Dual record player! German solidity and built like a tank! I only play my records at home on Dual record players. I have the 1009, 1019, 1219 and 701. All beautiful players with record change function, except the 701, which is also one of the few direct drive players from Dual. The long spindle for 33rpm can still be found, the one for 45rpm is quite rare. Good luck with your channel!
Hey thanks Robin, I appreciate your comment. I have another Dual I’m going to fix up soon, they really are a lovely player.
The 1229 is a great turntable. I have a 721 that I bought in 1978 and for the most part, it has been trouble free since I bought it. I did replace the strobe light with a LED version and I replaced the steuerpimpel that goes bad in them, but it works and sounds beautiful : }
Great comment! Thanks for sharing your story!
I have both a 1219 and 1229 ,with a little cleaning. These are amazing pieces of equipment .Also these units are stackers as well.
Yes they are amazing! Thanks for sharing.
I loved every second of this! I also flinched a little at the WD40 part but then I saw you explaining it in the comments, great job!!
Thanks for the kind comment!
@@TheBasementChannel thank you for the care and the knowledge you share, I subbed and will start watching your channel every sleepless night from now on :)
that was fabulous, I love those old turntables. good job
Thanks so much!
Well done! Really channeling Techmoan and vwestlife 😎
Thanks Garth! They’re such great channels so that is a huge compliment!
There was oxidation on the contacts for the cartridge mount and also on the tone arm side. It’s an area that always needs cleaning so both channels of the cartridge pass the signal correctly.
Great video. I've redone 30 + turntables and the only ones I couldn't fix were wheel drive, BSR specifically. Might try a Dual after seeing your video.
Nice! The only turntables I couldn't fix were linear tracking and those with all sorts of electronic features, like Sony Biotracer and certain B&O Beogram.
The required proprietary parts were basically unobtainium where I live.
Superbe work!!!! Cheers from Patagonia Argentina
Thank you my South American friend!
Great video. 12:09 what scenario would this strobe function be useful?
It’s just used to adjust to the correct rotational speed
@@TheBasementChannel thank you.
job well done. So you've got an orange record, a photograph of a man on the cover wearing a wig dancing to disco. Oh look, I would've repurposed the lid into some kind of sci-fi costume headdress for the next sydney mardi gras
Great video and great save ! If you’ve never used the clear gorilla tape .., it works wonders and even though it might look a little crude over some of that cracking , it’s quite strong - I used it on the inside of a cracked wind shield after prepping properly and it worked great .., cheers
Good to know!
Great work, nice to see. Cheers
Thanks for your kind comment!
armor all wipes work good for the rubber wheel
Thanks for the advice!
Great video! Always helpful with servicing these
Thanks Kerry! Appreciate the comment.
Muchas gracias .tengo una Dual 1218 y no sabia como sacar el plato..ya que tiene pegado un protector de plástico..muchas gracias
¡eres muy bienvenido! gracias por el comentario.
The two issues with this old table. The Dearing ring which sits directly under the tonearm gimble( they break) second, the stauerpimple a tiny rubber cup on a post that the lifting paddle moves to set the tonearm down -lift at end of record. I'm working with some engineers on the ring replacement. Also, the cartridge sled ( where connections from cart to tonearm are made) goes really bad on wiring. There are sellers on ebay for new sleds.
WD40 is NOT a lubricant. It can be used as a penetrant but the excess should be wiped off. "WD" means Water Displacement. It was created to clean off electrical components which had been exposed to water. The silicone in it may lubricate a little, but it is more of a preservative/protectant.
If not replaced, the idler wheel should be cleaned and treated with a rejuvenating chemical. Before it's done, anything that spins should have the bearings lubricated with electric motor oil or some 20w non-detergent oil. Any metal part which slides on other aluminum part should be cleaned and then re-lubricated with grease(never use white grease). Until you do this, you are NOT done. Let the TT sit and it will freeze up again.
In repairing the hinged part of the dust cover, on the bottom side, carefully hold the pieces together which hinge and apply a good quality of clear package sealing tape. Metal hinges will scratch the topside of the cover as it slides back and forth. You might even want to glue thin pieces of felt to the underside of the part which slides on top of the other(plus glue felt to the backside of the door which hinges up as it slides back on the dust cover.
Great info, thanks for the comment! The spray I used wasn’t regular WD40, but a specialist lubricant also made by them.
I have used sewing machine oil and clock oil watch oil where I'm not sure if even sewing amachine oil will be too much. I've only used d40 for cleaning big rusty chunky metal whcih it does work good for that. Keeps them safe from rusting again after cleaning but for other small things I've used watch and clock oil and not a lot of that either cos more is not always better. Maybe these would be usable or is there a specific oil for jobs like this?
Well it worked didn't it? lol
@tombjornebark oh it will work wonders on all kinds of things. For a while. The problem arises when it turns into a stick horrible film that clogs your parts and forms this plastic film over everything it's gotten in contact with which if youre sprayed it into something you may not easily get out if you cant reach it. You can dissolve it again and get it off but best not put it on there in the first place.... if you find things which have had d40 put on them in ignorance its a real nightmare to have to get it off and things do exist that work well and don't cause it to go gummy so why do it. Its just going to be fine for a while then have to be redone properly. There's nothing worse when doing repairs on anything than having to undo the bad repairs of somone who came before.
@automatedelectronics6062
The original WD-40 was intended to temporarily coat sheet metal to protect from corrosion. It leaves a thin layer of mineral oil, as the rest of its contents evaporates. Whilst the oil is technically a lubricant, and can act as such, it is not sufficient for proper lubrication, and parts should be properly lubricated if used as a freeing agent. It subsequently was found to have other uses, including the one you describe. The original WD-40 does not contain silicone, although many of the competing products do. WD-40 do make a silicone lubricant in their specialist range.
I've had/restored many tables for decades. When a 1219/1229 are right, they are very respectable. I have both online here I've restored.
This is a great record player
That is a great comment
Thank you for the great presentation. Greetings from Sunny Sicily…
07:56 -goosebombs- you just killed it
I checked the timestamp and you’re right, not a goosebomb in sight!
I wonder why everyone else just doesn’t use a spray lubricant? It seems to work perfect! Everyone else took it apart cleaned with a cleaning solution and sprayed with lithium grease? Which is probably better! But this way works just fine!
This guy is just clueless... The Dual 1229 is no ordinary idler drive. Its one of the best turntables of all time, wow and flutter is on par with direct drives, built to last forever, with precision bearings and balanced tonearm. Belt drives cant hold a candle to it. There is a reason why people pay hundreds for a good one.
Oh dear. I fixed a few of these…to work on a Dual you really must know things. Wd-40 is a no no! You should use the originals with them always. And always completely remove and clean each part. That rubber they used for multi is hard as rock for certain. I still have the cs40 I use daily
You are being super harsh for no reason. He is not anything approaching an expert on turntables and is just seeing what he can do.
The problem is nobody is fixing these things. We are all looking to youtube to figure it out cos we just want to hear our records. And even if he's busted it up from a collectbales point of view he can play records and thats all he actually wants to do. Thats all most pepple want to do. I am 100 percent into conserving original workings and the past is precious to me but I can also understand that in practical terms people just want to hear their records. I have something like this and I dont know what it is. I have so many old record tape hifi players about 15 of them including radios etc. I cant find a soul to even look at them. My grandads old radio gramophone I also hv eprom about 1930s and it has massive valves and stuff. I am not trusting that to the only repair company because they want things posted to them and they are a big company I just aren't trusting them at all. I want a guy in a small shed who's at least 60 years old and who's grandad taught him when he was 5 but he doesn't exist. Lol.
@CaiusRo I dunno about record players but sewing machine oil is sometimes OK on old things. Doesnt gum up like wd40. I only use wd40 for cleaning big chunky metal things now and use sewing machine oil for anything I'm notnsure of. Also clock oil and watch oil seem very safe so maybe those would work? I mean please gogole that because I actually don't know and have never fixed a record player its just a suggestion you could look into.
Are you a Dual expert ? O.K. Here's another "Clueless" person. Dual 1237 2nd gen, only the start function works, the stop does not. None of my 3 Dual 1237's stop function work. Yes, I've cleaned and lubed everything with no success. That I can see there's no bent or jammed parts O.K., what's the problem......If this man is clueless, let's see if you can diagnose the problem.
I have a question. My turntable is like a 70s United audio. It looks a lot like this. No belt. The problem is it won’t quit spinning and there isn’t any paper under the platter.
Sometimes these turntables have adjustments than can be made to determine the stop point for the motor. Not sure how to fix the missing paper though, how good are you with a sharpie? 😆
It’s probably a 1219. Pretty much the same unit minus the strobe. It just needs a good cleaning of the auto mechanism to remove old dried up grease. Then I’m sure it would stop spinning when it cycles through. The 7.8 lb platter will spin for almost 2 minutes from its own inertia when it’s running as it should. So don’t expect the platter to stop immediately when the motor shuts off.
Enjoy this video very much indeed 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
You’re welcome!
Hi,
While watching this TH-cam about repairing the old Dual turntable, I couldn’t help but notice an old Apple iMac G4 sitting on the shelf behind you? Just wondering if you have done a repair on it? I have one that I bought new in the early 2000’s. It no longer works but I’ve kept it because of its iconic design.
I believe mine has a power supply issue but I doubt that there are any parts still available these days. Having said that, it would be awesome to restore it sometime.
Anyway, just thought I’d ask.
Cheers,
Hi Stephen, I already replied to your email
Hi I recently got one of these I would like to know what you used to clean it.
Just any kind of spray and wipe cleaner. I used window cleaner.
I have that model, but it's a 1229-Q. The "Q" stands for "quiet". It was released shortly after the 1229, in the middle 1970s. Haven't worked on it, yet. Thanks for this video.
Curious, thanks for sharing!
Lol. Q stands for Quad. As in Quadraphonic, 4 channel sound capable. As long as you had a quad amp as well. Pretty much a marketing gimmick. For being idler drives and automatic changer turntables all the idler drive Duals were already amazingly Quiet.
@@thechuckster1971 Thanks for the information. Can you link a source?
@@michaelscottcutler3627 TH-cam wont allow links, but you can find out more if you head over the vinyl engine website. The chuckster is correct in that the Q stands for quadrophonic, but I'm not sure calling it a gimmick is correct. There are a handful of fans of CD-4 who really like the fact that you can get discreet, four channel sound out of a record. That said, doing so has its challenges, and it's obviously been completely replaced by modern surround sound setups.
Well done Sir!
Why thank you!
Could we get our turntable repaired at your work house.
Unfortunately I’m just a basement, not a work house.
You have it working but there is still a lot to do on that turntable to bring it back to being reliable.
I own a."Duel" I believe it's German made.
.. enjoy this video very much indeed.👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Indeed! Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment 👍
What's with the rotten Duals nowadays?
Why do people pay hundreds of dollars for an old mediocre turntable like these?
3:25 Well, it has an idler wheel, which is also rubber that deteriorates over time, just like a belt.
6:18 No, you're not supposed to use WD40 on a motor!
16:08 Why leave a part of the old wire in place? Might as well solder it directly to the switch.
Btw, I recommend using some rubber restorer on the idler wheel. It makes the rubber fresh and improves traction on the platter, which improves speed stability.
Have one of these that is sitting in a box in my garage as well. Everything works, apparently I can just lube it up and toss a new stylus on and I will be good to go.
I reckon!
On the positive side - it has a heavy platter.
On the negative side - it has a wheel that drives the platter and not a belt. A wheel usually transfers more motor noise over into the music.
I did hope that this actually had a Thorens mechanism in it.
"Usually" ??? Means "not always". In this case "not always" because it doesn't transfer motor noise.
Great job, normally they freeze up in hard grease and that's a much worse job to do and time consuming, keep saving these old machines that are much better than todays rubbish
Thanks for the great info, and yes I’ll continue to save these relics, quality never dies!
I noticed your Mac collection I have a boxed quick silver g4
Actually the belt drive was considered an inferior drive system and made turn tables easier and cheaper to produce: lighter platters and weaker (cheaper) motors. Dual only improved on their idler drive turntables, which were and still are considered superb, with even better (more quiet) direct drives in the early 70's. The 701 was the first and is still the best turntable Dual ever produced before it went belly up. The 1228 and 1229 shown here were the top of the line idler drives. When Japan flooded the Western markets with cheap and rather good direct drives in the 70's it was game over for Dual. The CD put the final nail in the coffin in the 80's.. That's it, in a nutshell.
I’ve got a Dual belt drive on my repair list
Hay mucha diferecia entre el modelo 1228 y el 1229 de dual ?
Sorry mate, I’m not really a Dual expert, probably just google it.
My favourite part would have to be Click Goes the Shears!!🐑😂
2 minutes of using Google and you would treat this Legendary piece totally different.
You did also a very crappy job at the Audio Cable. You snipped it of and extend it littarary 3 inches next to the solder joints.
No cleaning of old grease, just using WD40.
This is working now but not after some month anymore.
I refubished hundreds of them. And almost all have the same problems. Take some time to fix, but this is one of the best player you can get. Even for his age!
I’m glad you enjoy them. Thanks for your comment! Maybe one day I’ll be as expert as you.
I just found one of these in much worse shape.. i think i need to go back to the thrift store and try to find the lid!
Happy hunting! Hope you find it👍
This player is gonna work for couple of months,unless you do it properly. Don't charge the owner technicall part,just the cleaning and cover fix
I’m not a repair shop.
@@TheBasementChannel Nice fix on the cover. Those sliding covers are popular,but they get damaged after 50yrs. This is gonna give other users nice idea "how to" diy fix. Thumb up 👍
Hey there, I came across your channel while scrolling through You Tube. I thought there were only rude Jackasses here in the States, turns out they’re EVERYWHERE! Keep on tinkering…✌️
Thanks mate! I’ve got pretty thick skin 😆 but yeah, some salty Dual fans out there for sure 😂
19:11 No, it's Dual.
The scary thing is that you actually own an orange disco record.
Everyone should own an orange disco record at least once in their life.
WD-40 works to remove old oil but it is not the best in these cases. You have already determined that the turntable is repairable, now you have to do some research, watch some videos on TH-cam and do a proper job. I am not going to criticize for the sake of criticizing, but that turntable deserves better treatment than what you are giving it (if your client is willing to pay of course).
It’s not WD40 and I don’t have clients.
Anybody who uses WD-40 on vintage turntables like this should be thrown off TH-cam.
It was WD40 branded PTFE lubricant. But yeah, I should probably be thrown off TH-cam anyway.
WD-40 bashing is quite common on TH-cam without actually looking at the particular product being used, or how it is being used. It’s quite clear on the video that it’s dry PTFE lubricant.