Im.not a mechanic by any means, i change my own oil, brakes.. this was the first major repair ive ever attempted and with your video it helped me out tons.. i was nervous at first but i was able to do it. I called a local shop and they were going to charge me between 800-1100 dollars to change. No way i was going to pay that.. i looked up so many videos and urs was the only one that i felt was in depth.. thank you so much for your time and knowledge and for saving me a ton of money.. take care and be safe..
a lot of work on these older trucks is pretty simple, best thing to do is be confident when you go into a job and PLACE THE BOLTS IN ORDER OF REMOVAL. also take pictures on every step so you remember what goes where.
Yes. I appreciate the actual camera change angle when you were hitting the hub assembly. That makes a big difference in a video. We can’t see from afar (which many creators do, plant a camera a few feet away & never zoom in to where their fingers are at) and you had good lighting as well. Thank you for uploading.
New sub. I had my passenger side wheel bearing on my 2011 GMC Sierra replaced by a garage because I had an extended warranty and the defect was found during state safety inspection. That was two years ago…this year, during inspection it was found that the drivers side is shot. I’m mechanical proficient enough with a fully equipped garage, that I believe I’m capable of doing this myself. Your video convinced me that I absolutely can! I was quoted 500 at the garage…I can’t deal with that. So, this week I’ll do it myself. Thanks for a detailed tutorial video.
Since the new hub assembly comes with studs in it,knock out a couple of the studs from the old one, run a bolt through the hole, and put a nut on the back side. Use a wrench on the nut ,and the impact on the bolt. Eliminating the hammer, and chisel
About to do this on my father in laws 05. Better than a chisel, is the torch to heat all alone the hub before pounding. My 05vue took a 24 penetrator soak, torch and hammer, FOR 3 HOURS And i also coat the hub in anti seize before i put it in the knuckle and wire wheel the knuckle clean too.
Past few days I am watching all the bearing hub exchanges and honestly, your video clip is the best of all. Thanks for the good job and have a wonderful one.
@@johnperez93640I don't think you can change just the bearing on these vehicles. You have to change the entire hub assembly... So replacing the gun assembly, is replacing the bearing.
@@brody6634 the bearing alone CAN be replaced instead of the whole hub. But its just easier for the average DIYer to just replace the hub. The hub was put together somehow. If u reverse engineer it, ull see that the bearing CAN be replaced. (With a shop press and correct plates n stuff.) Myself, i buy just the bearings 6 at a time for a cheaper price, and then just replace the bearing whenever another comes in needing a "hub replaced". Like the bearing in idler pulley's, most are all the same bearing. I buy those by the dozen at a time for cheap and replace just the bearing when one comes in needing a pulley replaced. Parts stores dont really like that i do that for people because they wana sell hubs and pulleys. But for how much they sell those parts for, id rather not let them rip people off.
Just did this job yesterday. I used a cheapo air hammer from harbor freight (less than $20) with the chisel and it popped off the hub from the knuckle pretty damn fast. Nice video man!
How come at the 7:30 mark, once everything is buttoned up, and you shake the wheel, it looks as if you have just as much play as you did in the beginning of the vid?
Thank you for your tutorial/example!!! This was on point. Other than the old parts being fused, it was extremely easy. as far as total time time working on it is concerned, it was quick. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. I got all my parts (Front Rotor's, Front Wheel Bearing & Hubs, Front Brake Pads, Front Shocks & Front CV Axle Shafts) for $860. Figured might as well do it all at once.
Replaced the driver side hub about five years ago. Had to do the passenger side this morning. Excellent video, hit all the key points you need to do this job. One thing I might add, is that you'll need to apply anti-seize to the hub where it contacts the spindle. Oh and using the chisel to separate the hub was money! Pro-tip right there that was extremely useful.
Chiseling that joint definately puts a high spot on the mating surface of the knuckle. It may look like you did no damage, but if you stone that surface, youll see it. Does it matter? Depends on how bad the damaga is vs how long you need the bearing to last.
Automatic Sub and like because you don't skip steps. Thank you so much. I was going to pay a shop to do this, but you made me confident I can do this easily myself!
Great explanation on the hammer and chisel part, watched several other tubes and for the life of me I was wondering how theirs came off so easy. Thanks.
Good video very well explained. I read Autozone hubs dont last more than a couple of years. Many guys recommend Timken. I got one for my Escalade for $140 on amazon.
For anyone struggling. remove one lug stud,, get a long bolt put it through the old hub hole, thread on a big nut till the bolt touches the spindle and the nut threaded up to the back of the old hub... hold the nut with a big wrench as you tighten the bolt,,, when it starts to move.. loosen it and rotate the old hub and do it again. Another trick is a pipe wrench slipped over the hub flange(wrench pointing down so it stays) tighten up the jaws good and then hit the handle of the pipe wrench with a sledge hammer. I havent tried this but ive seen it work good. Maybe a jackstand under the lower control arm spindle to support it before you swing the sledge hammer? Getting pissed helps too ..lol
I replaced mine 8 years ago,now they're needing to be replaced again. I ended up getting a 2" x10" x1/2" flat stock. Drilled 2 holes for the studs and 1 exactly centered between them. I bolted my slide hammer to the flatstock and the flatstock to the hub. My first try was to leave the three bolts in the housing and hit each bolt till the housing moved an inch,it was alot of work.
hey just was watching and noticed a step you missed. it's important you clean the splines on the front axle and apply some sort of grease as well. it makes it easier for the next time and prevents the new hub hopefully from seizing onto it
Made it look easy.. Have a 03 rado and my hub bearing broke a part on the highway at 70 mph today 8_20_2020. The inner cap fell off all the grease spilled out also pieces of the bearing including the stones it has inside the bearing . The thing is I didn't have signs of a bad bearing or hub. No knocking or wiggle or grinding what so ever. It just tugged to the left hard. Could of been worse. Hopefully no heavy damage to anything else
@@TheSundaeDrive I live in Los Angeles Cali. Weather is hot. Windows up a.c. on. I run 33s on my truck it is alil loud with the howling maybe i didntt catch the warning signs. But yea bro all fixed New wheelnhub and rotor 💪💯
@@TheSundaeDrive great vid tho! Alternative to all that pounding is to remove the 3 hub bolts halfway, then with a punch or air hammer on the bolt heads it'll break free easier as the force is in line
the part you said you don't want to feel stupid on at 4:04 put the nut back on to protect the threads then whack it with a hammer to drive the axle out the back - - it moves axle back allowing access to the hub bolts and makes it easier to separate the hub - - it may still take some convincing but the axle end no longer adds adhesion to the issue
Those 15mm bolts don't come put without a fight. I used a breaker bar with a pipe extension and broke a socket. The socket split into two pieces. Ended up using PB, WD40 and a torch.
If you have really loud mud tires then it would be a good idea to check them every once in a while cause you won’t be able to hear when they start making noise.
Also helpful use some penetrating oil where the hub goes inside the spindle loosen the cv axle nut and beat around the wheel bearing that your going to scrap anyway sometimes that way you get away without the chisel
Is there an after market hub assy where the sensor is separate? My passenger side sensor is shot but the hub seems perfectly good. And the warranty is done. I did this job last year on my '06 Silverado on the diver's side. I used the manual chisel&hammer. After 1/2 hr moved to air. 10 seconds later it's off. Only downside was the dust shield got wrecked.
Good vid, you skipped removing the bolts that hold the bearing on tho. Those can be a challenge. Sometimes you can only use a box end wrench because of the cv shaft being in the way. And they definitely aren't just going to come out easy with a little stubby 15mm.
I forgot to add that I drove home today 12 miles driving 20 mph emergency lights and all cause of that grinding kinda noise I was legit scared. Then I come home hop on you tune and see you during like nothing lol WOW! I took my 06 Silverado to the shop I just wanna drive safely plus I don’t have the tools for that. Subbing!!!
Is the new hub pre-greased? I’m guessing there’s no way to grease the bearings internally like some of the older trucks, I didn’t see any grease fittings or any grease added by you when you installed the new ones.
In the video you say you used a 36 mm socket for the axle but. In the description you say we need a 35 mm. I have a 2014. I've tried searching the internet and some say 35 and others say 36. Do you know for sure?
Torque values (torque charts) are typically calculated on lubricated threads. In the power generation/turbine industry, we always use anti seize on threads. Kluberpaste now instead of Loctite N5000 anymore due to hexavalent chromium issues. Great video. Just paid thru the nose to have the RF done on my 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71 at the GMC dealer. I’ll do the LF myself next time. Sorry to see you can’t re pack and reinstall wheel bearings anymore…
Have a question do the hub bolts only thread into the hub be the ones on my 99 are so badly rusted the bolt heads are gone so I was thinking I could cut the hub in 3 spots and punch the bolts out ?
I had that exact noise for a week it was so bad. I had to get the hub & bearing replaced on the front driver side. I felt it right under my butt, it was so bad. $ 376 for parts & labor.
Had to stop and leave a comment on this, i had a 99 gmc and a front wheel bearing went out. Bought the cheapest with one year warranty and had to change it 4 times before the year was out. So lying about the cheap stuff won't help. Just go ahead and purchase the timekin bearing. It may be double the price but it's far more superior. The cheap one, the rollers only cast and not machined 😉 timekin, machined rollers😊
@@TheSundaeDrive they where gonna charge $480 bucks, I bought 2 online for under a $100 with free overnight shipping, got them on in under 2 hours, only broke 1 bolt. Was such a smooth process! Thank you so much for the detailed video. You guys didn't miss a step! Life savers!
I used the hub bolts and a punch to unseat the hub. Replacing those bolts anyway. Using a chisel may scar the knuckle face so that the new hub assembly may not seat correctly.
Hello, my 2002 yukon xl has play from left to right but not really top to bottom. Could it still be the bearing / hub assembly ? Any info would be helpful, thanks.
It’s possible since mine really had play in all directions, but mine was also in terrible condition. Could also be the tie rods if you’re getting left to right play. Worst case it could be the pitman arm or idler arm in the steering but that would affect both wheels in the front
@@TheSundaeDrive I have a 2001 2wd Silverado, my front left wheel has slight play in up and down and a lot left to right and the right wheel is only up and down a little. The mechanic told me I’d need both inner tie rods and the wheel bearing for the front left wheel. But the weird thing is that there was no sound or anything coming from the wheel bearing 🤷🏼♂️
The brake caliper assembly comes off very easily. The caliper is held on with two bolts and the bracket for the caliper is help on with the two 18mm bolts. Pretty sure you removing the two 18mm bolts is all you need to do to remove the entire assembly
Thank you very much! After I replaced mine my ABS light is stuck on, i haven't drove it that far or that fast, do you know the threshold speed where it will retest?
Not sure when it retests, sorry. My ABS light has been on for a while now too but I haven't tested any of the sensors to see if it is the new hub or something else.
@@TheSundaeDrive I found the issue, when I installed the new assembly I bent one of the pins when I inserted it into the connector, which then broke off, nothing a soldering iron, old sensor, and liquid electrical tape couldn't fix.
Im.not a mechanic by any means, i change my own oil, brakes.. this was the first major repair ive ever attempted and with your video it helped me out tons.. i was nervous at first but i was able to do it. I called a local shop and they were going to charge me between 800-1100 dollars to change. No way i was going to pay that.. i looked up so many videos and urs was the only one that i felt was in depth.. thank you so much for your time and knowledge and for saving me a ton of money.. take care and be safe..
Glad it helped you! Love hearing this
a lot of work on these older trucks is pretty simple, best thing to do is be confident when you go into a job and PLACE THE BOLTS IN ORDER OF REMOVAL. also take pictures on every step so you remember what goes where.
Hell yea man. Hopefully it was 1 of many. Such a priceless skill
Yes. I appreciate the actual camera change angle when you were hitting the hub assembly. That makes a big difference in a video. We can’t see from afar (which many creators do, plant a camera a few feet away & never zoom in to where their fingers are at) and you had good lighting as well. Thank you for uploading.
New sub. I had my passenger side wheel bearing on my 2011 GMC Sierra replaced by a garage because I had an extended warranty and the defect was found during state safety inspection. That was two years ago…this year, during inspection it was found that the drivers side is shot. I’m mechanical proficient enough with a fully equipped garage, that I believe I’m capable of doing this myself. Your video convinced me that I absolutely can! I was quoted 500 at the garage…I can’t deal with that. So, this week I’ll do it myself. Thanks for a detailed tutorial video.
Awesome! Love hearing this. Best of luck!
Since the new hub assembly comes with studs in it,knock out a couple of the studs from the old one, run a bolt through the hole, and put a nut on the back side. Use a wrench on the nut ,and the impact on the bolt. Eliminating the hammer, and chisel
About to do this on my father in laws 05.
Better than a chisel, is the torch to heat all alone the hub before pounding. My 05vue took a 24 penetrator soak, torch and hammer, FOR 3 HOURS
And i also coat the hub in anti seize before i put it in the knuckle and wire wheel the knuckle clean too.
this is by far one of the most helpful videos because you actually showed everything
Glad it helped!
Past few days I am watching all the bearing hub exchanges and honestly, your video clip is the best of all.
Thanks for the good job and have a wonderful one.
I did these steps on my 2005 2wd Silverado. It was a life saver I went ahead and did the whole front suspension. Thanks for the video!!
Awesome! Glad it helped!
@@TheSundaeDrivethe title said the bearing. U did the hub.
@@johnperez93640I don't think you can change just the bearing on these vehicles. You have to change the entire hub assembly... So replacing the gun assembly, is replacing the bearing.
@@brody6634 the bearing alone CAN be replaced instead of the whole hub. But its just easier for the average DIYer to just replace the hub. The hub was put together somehow. If u reverse engineer it, ull see that the bearing CAN be replaced. (With a shop press and correct plates n stuff.) Myself, i buy just the bearings 6 at a time for a cheaper price, and then just replace the bearing whenever another comes in needing a "hub replaced". Like the bearing in idler pulley's, most are all the same bearing. I buy those by the dozen at a time for cheap and replace just the bearing when one comes in needing a pulley replaced. Parts stores dont really like that i do that for people because they wana sell hubs and pulleys. But for how much they sell those parts for, id rather not let them rip people off.
On the 2wd do they have a spindle but on them like the 4wd?
Just did this job yesterday. I used a cheapo air hammer from harbor freight (less than $20) with the chisel and it popped off the hub from the knuckle pretty damn fast. Nice video man!
Harbor Freight is the best for tools like that lol. Glad it helped!
How come at the 7:30 mark, once everything is buttoned up, and you shake the wheel, it looks as if you have just as much play as you did in the beginning of the vid?
The best self help video for changing wheel bearings on chevy silverado!
Thank you for this video. I took on this job this morning and still have not gotten the job off and was thinking I was missing something.
I usually loosen the Axl nut before I jack up the truck. If it helps anyone. Awesome video
Thanks for keeping it super basic and respectful. There's a lot of guys that are learning off of here
Good video. Ive always used never seize on all my cars lug nuts. People think its a no no but i never had an issue with doing so
Thank you for your tutorial/example!!! This was on point. Other than the old parts being fused, it was extremely easy. as far as total time time working on it is concerned, it was quick. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. I got all my parts (Front Rotor's, Front Wheel Bearing & Hubs, Front Brake Pads, Front Shocks & Front CV Axle Shafts) for $860. Figured might as well do it all at once.
Definitely a good time to get in there and do it all together. Hopefully the video helps you out!
Replaced the driver side hub about five years ago. Had to do the passenger side this morning. Excellent video, hit all the key points you need to do this job. One thing I might add, is that you'll need to apply anti-seize to the hub where it contacts the spindle. Oh and using the chisel to separate the hub was money! Pro-tip right there that was extremely useful.
Glad it helped!
Chiseling that joint definately puts a high spot on the mating surface of the knuckle. It may look like you did no damage, but if you stone that surface, youll see it.
Does it matter? Depends on how bad the damaga is vs how long you need the bearing to last.
@@TheSundaeDrivehow long did it last ?
For those of you who stripped the bolt, I reccomend using a William's bolt extractor. It worked like a charm for me.
Great video and good advice for getting the hub off a lot of people skip over that 10/10
Automatic Sub and like because you don't skip steps. Thank you so much. I was going to pay a shop to do this, but you made me confident I can do this easily myself!
So much easier than I thought. Thank you for this!
No problem! Glad it helped
This is a great video from start to finish. It's even better you had the sizes of sockets and what to torque them to. Very helpful 👌
Glad you found it helpful! Best of luck with the job!
Great explanation on the hammer and chisel part, watched several other tubes and for the life of me I was wondering how theirs came off so easy. Thanks.
most TH-camrs just ship over the hard parts. we try to show it so it isn't a surprise lol
Vertical play is the best way to check as you demonstrated. Horizontal play could also be tie rods.
Good point:
Good video very well explained. I read Autozone hubs dont last more than a couple of years. Many guys recommend Timken. I got one for my Escalade for $140 on amazon.
Thanks! I've heard Timken is a good brand as well
Same here. Got mine at Summit Racing for 145.00
For anyone struggling. remove one lug stud,, get a long bolt put it through the old hub hole, thread on a big nut till the bolt touches the spindle and the nut threaded up to the back of the old hub... hold the nut with a big wrench as you tighten the bolt,,, when it starts to move.. loosen it and rotate the old hub and do it again. Another trick is a pipe wrench slipped over the hub flange(wrench pointing down so it stays) tighten up the jaws good and then hit the handle of the pipe wrench with a sledge hammer. I havent tried this but ive seen it work good. Maybe a jackstand under the lower control arm spindle to support it before you swing the sledge hammer? Getting pissed helps too ..lol
Good tips!! Thank you
I replaced mine 8 years ago,now they're needing to be replaced again. I ended up getting a 2" x10" x1/2" flat stock. Drilled 2 holes for the studs and 1 exactly centered between them. I bolted my slide hammer to the flatstock and the flatstock to the hub. My first try was to leave the three bolts in the housing and hit each bolt till the housing moved an inch,it was alot of work.
Thank you. Great video. Was able to replace my hub assembly on my 2005 Silverado with the help of your video!
Woo! Glad it helped :)
Nice video. Better than most. Explained well and to the point and yes, you showed the hard part.
Thanks for adding the ft lbs tork to the vid!!
Of course! We want the videos to be as helpful as possible 👍👍
Second this lol thanks
Ya'll make it look SO easy! But this is definitely a useful video. Thanks so much!! 👍💪
Glad to help!
Good video👍🏼 short, to the point, and well edited. I’m going to fix mine tomorrow. Thanks
Thanks! Hopefully it helps you out!
Bout to go change mine now, wish me luck
Literally just now followed along and change mine!!
Awesome! glad it helped
hey just was watching and noticed a step you missed. it's important you clean the splines on the front axle and apply some sort of grease as well. it makes it easier for the next time and prevents the new hub hopefully from seizing onto it
Made it look easy.. Have a 03 rado and my hub bearing broke a part on the highway at 70 mph today 8_20_2020. The inner cap fell off all the grease spilled out also pieces of the bearing including the stones it has inside the bearing . The thing is I didn't have signs of a bad bearing or hub. No knocking or wiggle or grinding what so ever. It just tugged to the left hard. Could of been worse. Hopefully no heavy damage to anything else
Aww man. That stinks! Hope everything else is ok! Surprised you didn't have any warning prior
@@TheSundaeDrive I live in Los Angeles Cali. Weather is hot. Windows up a.c. on. I run 33s on my truck it is alil loud with the howling maybe i didntt catch the warning signs. But yea bro all fixed New wheelnhub and rotor 💪💯
Glad it wasn't too bad to fix!
"6 minutes of just pounding it" lol, nice work, good stamina and grip
😂 it’s all about the stamina
@@TheSundaeDrive great vid tho!
Alternative to all that pounding is to remove the 3 hub bolts halfway, then with a punch or air hammer on the bolt heads it'll break free easier as the force is in line
I'm not gonna even put the 3 bolts back, it's gonna fuse shut anyway lol
😂
Wow very simple explanation! And helpful! Thanks for this great video ! You are the man ! 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video! Easy to see, follow, & I love the fact that u gave the torque specifications. 👍🏾💯
:) glad it helped you out!
Really appreciate the content man, you were a lifesaver
Glad to help!
THANK YOU!!! I was kicking meself trying to get it off!👍👩🔧
Glad it helped!
I DID using it!! thanks to your video tip..took me 30min! 😘👍👩🔧
the part you said you don't want to feel stupid on at 4:04 put the nut back on to protect the threads then whack it with a hammer to drive the axle out the back - - it moves axle back allowing access to the hub bolts and makes it easier to separate the hub - - it may still take some convincing but the axle end no longer adds adhesion to the issue
Nice and quick but didn't skip the tough part, thanks
Glad it helped! This definitely has some hard parts so don't want to minimize that
A torch is your friend. A little heat on the bolts does wonders getting them to break.
Those 15mm bolts don't come put without a fight. I used a breaker bar with a pipe extension and broke a socket. The socket split into two pieces. Ended up using PB, WD40 and a torch.
A Torch and PB blaster are a mechanics best fried
If you have really loud mud tires then it would be a good idea to check them every once in a while cause you won’t be able to hear when they start making noise.
How to take the top bolt from the back of the bearing ? I can’t even get my socket in there.
wow well done bud ,one of the easiest to follow video you again.
Thanks! Glad it helped!!
the hub vids for this job have different t specs ..thanks 4 giving the correct ones
Also helpful use some penetrating oil where the hub goes inside the spindle loosen the cv axle nut and beat around the wheel bearing that your going to scrap anyway sometimes that way you get away without the chisel
That is always a good idea
Thank for your video I do it today but mine doesn’t have the middle nut so is more easy
Awesome job, thanks a million. I just did my 2017 GMC Sierra with your video.
Is there an after market hub assy where the sensor is separate? My passenger side sensor is shot but the hub seems perfectly good. And the warranty is done. I did this job last year on my '06 Silverado on the diver's side. I used the manual chisel&hammer. After 1/2 hr moved to air. 10 seconds later it's off. Only downside was the dust shield got wrecked.
Nicely done, nice video work as well. I was able to see what you were doing .
Good vid, you skipped removing the bolts that hold the bearing on tho. Those can be a challenge. Sometimes you can only use a box end wrench because of the cv shaft being in the way. And they definitely aren't just going to come out easy with a little stubby 15mm.
true need a long wrench 15 mm. make sure you dont round the the head bolts. tough to get off
GREAT VIDEO I THOUGHT IT WAS SIMPLE AND DIRECT
Thank you! glad it helped
I forgot to add that I drove home today 12 miles driving 20 mph emergency lights and all cause of that grinding kinda noise I was legit scared. Then I come home hop on you tune and see you during like nothing lol WOW! I took my 06 Silverado to the shop I just wanna drive safely plus I don’t have the tools for that. Subbing!!!
Haha definitely be safe out there!
One of the scariest sounds ever lol
Haha yes. Any vehicle making unnatural sounds scares me into compulsively reaching for me wallet 😂
240 that cost me but I have peace of mind and I can speed again
Who sold you (3) shoulder bolts for $25!?!? 😂😂😂
Is the new hub pre-greased? I’m guessing there’s no way to grease the bearings internally like some of the older trucks, I didn’t see any grease fittings or any grease added by you when you installed the new ones.
Did you apply anti-seize to the studs ?
In the video you say you used a 36 mm socket for the axle but. In the description you say we need a 35 mm. I have a 2014. I've tried searching the internet and some say 35 and others say 36. Do you know for sure?
36
Thanks!
It's 35
Great video i will do it this weekend thansk for the encouragement first time ever
Good shit! Thanks for the kick start.
Anti-Sieze is NOT good for lug nuts, it can seriously change the torque value.
You know the Navy are ones that used never seize on bolts on their subs.
We use it on all our race cars to prevent damage to the threads. Never a issue
Facepalm..
Torque values (torque charts) are typically calculated on lubricated threads. In the power generation/turbine industry, we always use anti seize on threads. Kluberpaste now instead of Loctite N5000 anymore due to hexavalent chromium issues. Great video. Just paid thru the nose to have the RF done on my 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z71 at the GMC dealer. I’ll do the LF myself next time. Sorry to see you can’t re pack and reinstall wheel bearings anymore…
So I purchased my hub assembly the one from Auto zone by no means am I a mechanic but why doesn't my hub have a hole through the middle ?
Have a question do the hub bolts only thread into the hub be the ones on my 99 are so badly rusted the bolt heads are gone so I was thinking I could cut the hub in 3 spots and punch the bolts out ?
Yes, they only thread into the hub so you could cut the hub and punch the bolts out
I was wondering what that thing was called my hub thing is just hanging there it already off when I took everything off
Do you know how to fix your gas gauge and your temperature gauge I cannot find the fuses twist Victor stopped working
What if the rim and wheel heats up like crazy? Is that also not a wheelbearing going bad?
could be or a frozen caliper
So I just bought a hub assembly and the holes for the 15mm bolts that hold the hub on is not threaded, so is there anyway somehow to put it on?
Wonder if a gear puller would have help get that hub off? I've got to do my GMC Sierra soon. Starting to sound bad.
Puller
Thanks this video really helped, i have the same noise i just want to be sure before i spend the money on the parts.
Glad it helped!
No anti size on lug nut! I have to replace two on my plow truck a 200HD and I change bolts to.
Agreed, I (Cliff) yelled at him lol. Something more like I would more typically do and have him yelling at me lol
I had that exact noise for a week it was so bad. I had to get the hub & bearing replaced on the front driver side. I felt it right under my butt, it was so bad. $ 376 for parts & labor.
Definitely something you want to fix. That's not a terrible price. Especially if it siezed up like this one.
Had to stop and leave a comment on this, i had a 99 gmc and a front wheel bearing went out. Bought the cheapest with one year warranty and had to change it 4 times before the year was out. So lying about the cheap stuff won't help. Just go ahead and purchase the timekin bearing. It may be double the price but it's far more superior. The cheap one, the rollers only cast and not machined 😉 timekin, machined rollers😊
Was the truck getting bumpy when reaching high speeds?
I really was hoping to see how you disconnected the abs cable at the top...
how many miles did u have on that bearing before it took a shit? should i be concerned that both my front OEM bearings only lasted 110k miles?
Did you bypass removing the torx bolts for the caliper
1/2 inch impact with wd 40 also think it’s a t 55 scary but mine came out thought I was gonna strip the pos
36mm nut on the CV axle?
Is it 36mm or 35mm? It says 36 in video and 35mm in video info?
just bought complete set both sides with new fasteners 100 bux from detroit axle dont know as to the quality will get back to you on it
So I didn't have torque wrench that high. Mine only went to 90ft lbs. Will that suffice or should I go and get a bigger wrench and tighten to spec?
As annoying as it is, I agree, always go to the right torque spec.
@Bones McGillicuddy thanks! Here's what sign?
@@TheSundaeDrive thanks. I did get a larger ft. Lb. Torque wrench to torque to spec.
This video helped out a ton. Thank you!!
Awesome!
Thanks for your help.Hopefully I wont screw up replacing mine.
Best of luck with it!
I was gonna bring my truck in to a machanic tommorrow and pay $400 for them to do this, thank you for sharing!
Awesome! Glad this helped you out
@@TheSundaeDrive they where gonna charge $480 bucks, I bought 2 online for under a $100 with free overnight shipping, got them on in under 2 hours, only broke 1 bolt. Was such a smooth process! Thank you so much for the detailed video. You guys didn't miss a step! Life savers!
This makes us really happy to know that we are helping people :) glad we were able to save you a few bucks!
For anyone interested investing in a 6" puller will make that hard part easier
Definitely a good suggestion!
You can usually rent pullers for nothing at parts stores. They have you put it on your Card. And when you return it they refund your money back.
I used the hub bolts and a punch to unseat the hub. Replacing those bolts anyway. Using a chisel may scar the knuckle face so that the new hub assembly may not seat correctly.
True. Good tip. Really need to be careful with the chisel. Your method is better
+Brandon Steggall good tip!
Great job...thanks for the video...
My rotor is frozen also..lol😂
Thank you for the video! What can you say about the tires that you have installed? Good quality?
Hello, my 2002 yukon xl has play from left to right but not really top to bottom. Could it still be the bearing / hub assembly ? Any info would be helpful, thanks.
It’s possible since mine really had play in all directions, but mine was also in terrible condition. Could also be the tie rods if you’re getting left to right play. Worst case it could be the pitman arm or idler arm in the steering but that would affect both wheels in the front
@@TheSundaeDrive I have a 2001 2wd Silverado, my front left wheel has slight play in up and down and a lot left to right and the right wheel is only up and down a little. The mechanic told me I’d need both inner tie rods and the wheel bearing for the front left wheel. But the weird thing is that there was no sound or anything coming from the wheel bearing 🤷🏼♂️
Great concise video... Thanks for the excellent video
Glad it helped!
Will a 15mm socket fit on the 3 hub bolts? Is there room for one or do i need a wrench?. ty
good luck getting those 3- 15mm bolts off
Great vid, thx. Going to try it myself.
Is it a 35mm or 36mm? For the axel?
how did the brake assembly come off so easily? did you skip a step or does it come off just like you showed in the video
The brake caliper assembly comes off very easily. The caliper is held on with two bolts and the bracket for the caliper is help on with the two 18mm bolts. Pretty sure you removing the two 18mm bolts is all you need to do to remove the entire assembly
Where did you buy the wheel Hub assembly bolts
TKS
I believe the dealer
How much grease do you put the hub?
Thank you very much! After I replaced mine my ABS light is stuck on, i haven't drove it that far or that fast, do you know the threshold speed where it will retest?
Not sure when it retests, sorry. My ABS light has been on for a while now too but I haven't tested any of the sensors to see if it is the new hub or something else.
@@TheSundaeDrive I found the issue, when I installed the new assembly I bent one of the pins when I inserted it into the connector, which then broke off, nothing a soldering iron, old sensor, and liquid electrical tape couldn't fix.
Does a bad wheel bearing/hub cause brakes to act wonky?
it potentially could