Great video, I've been hearing a rubbing sound while turning once in awhile. Pretty sure it's the bearings this video walks through the process perfectly.
Great vid, very helpful! Also awesome you included the torque specs. One tip that I learned from working on other cars: when going to remove the hub, unthread the bolts most of the way, then leave the extension and socket on the bolt and tap it with a hammer, the hub will break loose and slide right out.
Outstanding DIY vid, thank you! 💯 Stoked, just ordered 2 × Kryptonite KR6491 front hubs to go on my '16... along with the brand new Freedom Off Road UCA's, Dirt King alignment cam & pin set, and Eibach Pro Truck 2.0R fr & rr suspension set 🔥👹🔥
For reference is the 2014 Silverado 4x4 is a 36 socket. I just did my cousin went to oreilly like a Billy bad ass to buy the 35 and it was to small. Sz 36 socket
Have you replaced the rear bearings? I'm trying to find a video but No luck I've seen other ones but they are all different, not sure if it has to do with different years of truck or different designs?
Thanks for the video. Did you say "anti seize on the caliper bolts" at 10:04? I think you are supposed to use thread locker on the caliper bracket bolts, either blue or orange, not anti-seize. Also, at 8:09, you should clean up the rust from the face of the mounting surface on the steering knuckle in addition to the cleaning you did on the inside of the knuckle along the axle. Any rust on the face could cause the bearing to not sit perfectly flush in the knuckle.
That's why my impact couldn't get the caliper bracket bolts out and I broke a 1/2" ratchet with a breaker bar on it trying to get mine loose, some whacko put threadlocker on them! Maybe not anti-seize, but definitely don't use threadlocker on any bolt that you regularly have to loosen as part of routine maintenance, that's more for "hope it never comes out" type of stuff. On any normal vehicle it's expected you're gonna have to take the calipers off a good half dozen times over its lifetime at least for normal wear and tear type tasks if not more. If you torque to spec (maybe even a hair extra) they shouldn't ever come loose, no need to glue them in place! I do agree with cleaning up the mounting surface though, especially with this terrible design mine had so much corrosion that I actually lightly hit it with a file after the wire brush.
Recently replaced the passenger side on my 2011 Silverado and it pretty much identical. Hardest part is getting those things apart! Referenced your older video to do that. Thanks!
Dale - just a tip that I’ve learned over time. Thread the hub bolts out most of the way, leave the socket and extension on one of them, and tap it with a hammer. It will come right loose. It saves a lot of banging!
My 2018 GMC 4WD Sierra axle nut size is 36mm not 35mm. The 3 wheel bearing bolts size are 18mm, not 15mm. Using an angle grinder had to grind the upper A-frame ball joint stud sticking past past the nut that was in the way of the top bolt on the wheel bearing so I could get a socket on it. Had to use a 6 point socket with a 2ft breaker bar to loosen them up. Used an inexpensive wheel bearing puller to remove the wheel bearing saving myself a lot of time and aggravation. A common regular puller also works.
Great Video! Question for you: If I plan on replacing the ABS wires on both fronts of my 2018 (exposed wires is christmas treeing my dash), in your opinion ,would it be wiser to just go straight for the whole hub replacement or is it fine to just do the sensor harness for now?
@@TheSundaeDrive yeah…. I guess I should have replaced my cv axles when I redid my front end. I didn’t know that was standard protocol …. I’ve never had one fail knock on woods .
I actually will be replacing the axles. They are sitting on the shelf waiting for us to have time to film. But yes, I would do them together since you already have it apart. Good chance they will both need replacing around the same time
Anyone got or know the GM part number for the washer behind the axle nut, I know he didn’t replace but I’m just wanting to get a fresh one on while I’m there. Thank you!!
I mean, unless you somehow damaged it, there is zero reason to replace it. It's a flat piece of metal. The nut has threads that get stretched/worn being taken off over rusty metal and being subject to higher torque so it's not a bad idea to replace that (though I never once have on any vehicle), but the washer is just a washer. Unless you lose it or gouge it all up while removing it with an air chisel or something, honestly you'd be wasting time and money getting a new one. Whatever makes you happy can't hurt putting a new one in but man that is NOT necessary.
My coworker had her bearing fail and wrecked the truck Dealer is charging her 8000cad to fix it. I tried to see if we could help her but she refused. Had an extended warranty but a wheel bearing is a wearable part.
If it's been fine for 60k then I think you got away with it lol. Even though I did know replacing it was recommended, I re-used mine earlier today and I plan to sleep like a baby tonight hah. You're good dude
I have yet to have a problem been doing it on my personal vehicle for 15+ years. I've had far more issues with bolts being seized. But you definitely don't want to over do it. But it could cause problems if not fully tightened
Great video, I've been hearing a rubbing sound while turning once in awhile. Pretty sure it's the bearings this video walks through the process perfectly.
🎉 You've helped me so many times on my truck. Thank you so much.
Great vid, very helpful! Also awesome you included the torque specs. One tip that I learned from working on other cars: when going to remove the hub, unthread the bolts most of the way, then leave the extension and socket on the bolt and tap it with a hammer, the hub will break loose and slide right out.
Outstanding DIY vid, thank you! 💯
Stoked, just ordered 2 × Kryptonite KR6491 front hubs to go on my '16... along with the brand new Freedom Off Road UCA's, Dirt King alignment cam & pin set, and Eibach Pro Truck 2.0R fr & rr suspension set 🔥👹🔥
Great to see ur still helping people!
Sorry u still have a 2014 Chevy!!
Kryptonite’s the best… very close to my house in placerville!!
Very cool! Doing our best to keep having content come out! Trying to get some sort of partnership setup with them but haven't heard back yet
For reference is the 2014 Silverado 4x4 is a 36 socket. I just did my cousin went to oreilly like a Billy bad ass to buy the 35 and it was to small. Sz 36 socket
Excellent, excellent video instrutiton!!! THANK YOU!!
Your Welcome!
Have you replaced the rear bearings? I'm trying to find a video but No luck I've seen other ones but they are all different, not sure if it has to do with different years of truck or different designs?
Thanks for the video. Did you say "anti seize on the caliper bolts" at 10:04? I think you are supposed to use thread locker on the caliper bracket bolts, either blue or orange, not anti-seize. Also, at 8:09, you should clean up the rust from the face of the mounting surface on the steering knuckle in addition to the cleaning you did on the inside of the knuckle along the axle. Any rust on the face could cause the bearing to not sit perfectly flush in the knuckle.
That's why my impact couldn't get the caliper bracket bolts out and I broke a 1/2" ratchet with a breaker bar on it trying to get mine loose, some whacko put threadlocker on them! Maybe not anti-seize, but definitely don't use threadlocker on any bolt that you regularly have to loosen as part of routine maintenance, that's more for "hope it never comes out" type of stuff. On any normal vehicle it's expected you're gonna have to take the calipers off a good half dozen times over its lifetime at least for normal wear and tear type tasks if not more. If you torque to spec (maybe even a hair extra) they shouldn't ever come loose, no need to glue them in place! I do agree with cleaning up the mounting surface though, especially with this terrible design mine had so much corrosion that I actually lightly hit it with a file after the wire brush.
Recently replaced the passenger side on my 2011 Silverado and it pretty much identical. Hardest part is getting those things apart! Referenced your older video to do that. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Dale - just a tip that I’ve learned over time. Thread the hub bolts out most of the way, leave the socket and extension on one of them, and tap it with a hammer. It will come right loose. It saves a lot of banging!
Super helpful!!! just found y’all and can’t wait to see more. This was perfect.
My 2018 GMC 4WD Sierra axle nut size is 36mm not 35mm. The 3 wheel bearing bolts size are 18mm, not 15mm.
Using an angle grinder had to grind the upper A-frame ball joint stud sticking past past the nut that was in the way of the top bolt on the wheel bearing so I could get a socket on it. Had to use a 6 point socket with a 2ft breaker bar to loosen them up.
Used an inexpensive wheel bearing puller to remove the wheel bearing saving myself a lot of time and aggravation. A common regular puller also works.
Working on my 2018 Silverado and it's definitely 35
Awesome channel and content, well edited, well taught, no extra fluff, SUBSCRIBED!!
Awesome thank you I use this video step by step and got it done.
Fantastic! 😊
Yeah nothing came off my truck easy I’ll tell you what. This video did help with the install though 🤙🏼
Question, is it a good idea to change both wheel bearings when there's only a bad one?
Yeah if ones bad the other one is probably on its way out
I would always change them in pairs unless one fails very early for some reason
Had them on my 2015 Silverado, and they are pretty bad ass!
They seem to be very well made for sure!
Huge fan of you guys. Do you have any vibration from the rear at 70+mph in this truck? Thanks
Thank you! Potentially the drive shaft.
I doo, have you figured out what's wrong
@@edgara6333 Like they said, its the deiveshaft
Did this fixed the vibration issues?
Are these compatible with the 2020’s?
Great Video! Question for you: If I plan on replacing the ABS wires on both fronts of my 2018 (exposed wires is christmas treeing my dash), in your opinion ,would it be wiser to just go straight for the whole hub replacement or is it fine to just do the sensor harness for now?
Did you lube the splines of the axle shaft prior to installing the new wheel hubs? If so what did you use?
I have a 14…. And your videos and the timing of your repairs is almost identical to mine . Like I’m 6 months ahead of you lol.
ROFL that's too funny. My axles are next 😉
@@TheSundaeDrive yeah…. I guess I should have replaced my cv axles when I redid my front end. I didn’t know that was standard protocol …. I’ve never had one fail knock on woods .
Hi. I ran across this video and I was thinking can this be repaired on my CHR
hope this video is helpful!
Good video as usual and very informative. Hope all is good well with you?
Thank you! Appreciate you always following our builds! And yes all well here just busy!
@@TheSundaeDriveGlad to hear you're doing well and I definitely know about staying busy.
what are the torque specs for the axel nut and the wheel hub bolts ??
Do you recommend replacing the CV’s with the hubs?
I actually will be replacing the axles. They are sitting on the shelf waiting for us to have time to film. But yes, I would do them together since you already have it apart. Good chance they will both need replacing around the same time
Wow, that's easy. Last video I saw, they removed the spindle to do this job.
Well did replacing the hubs fix your noise issue?
It did not. Looks like it's bad axles. Have them on a shelf and will be making a video soon!
Anyone got or know the GM part number for the washer behind the axle nut, I know he didn’t replace but I’m just wanting to get a fresh one on while I’m there. Thank you!!
I mean, unless you somehow damaged it, there is zero reason to replace it. It's a flat piece of metal. The nut has threads that get stretched/worn being taken off over rusty metal and being subject to higher torque so it's not a bad idea to replace that (though I never once have on any vehicle), but the washer is just a washer. Unless you lose it or gouge it all up while removing it with an air chisel or something, honestly you'd be wasting time and money getting a new one. Whatever makes you happy can't hurt putting a new one in but man that is NOT necessary.
My coworker had her bearing fail and wrecked the truck
Dealer is charging her 8000cad to fix it. I tried to see if we could help her but she refused. Had an extended warranty but a wheel bearing is a wearable part.
Damn. I did mine 60k miles ago no axel nut. I didn’t know it needed to be replaced. Wonder if I should go back in there and replace it. lol
If it's been fine for 60k then I think you got away with it lol. Even though I did know replacing it was recommended, I re-used mine earlier today and I plan to sleep like a baby tonight hah. You're good dude
Are the rear wheel bearings the same process?
Same question will these fit the rear? Krypto site doesn’t specifics unless I missed it 🤷🏻♂️
Why didn’t he paint the dust covers
Thats a nice color
what about the rear hubs?
solid axle, they don't use regular wheel bearings like in the front hubs. It is VERY uncommon for axle bearings to go bad.
Good information...
Thanks!
8 to 10 minutes of beating off!
You NEVER put anti seize on the caliper bolts. You should use a little low or medium loctite.
I have yet to have a problem been doing it on my personal vehicle for 15+ years. I've had far more issues with bolts being seized. But you definitely don't want to over do it. But it could cause problems if not fully tightened
You need a lift kit. 2-3".
Agreed! Planning to soon
My axle nut is completely seized
Muy bueno y bien explicado thank you for the video and good explain
Thank you!