Great video. I'm a "show" me kind of learner. I can stare at an instruction book all day and then pass out. Audio was a bit echo-y but really helped. Thank you!!!
Hello image by design I was playing a bit with the controls of the R2 pro and I noticed that the test button on the top right, to shoot the groups separately A
Thank you Images by Design Last week I reached out with questions on my new Flashpoint trigger and Speedlight. You recommended to contact Shua at Adorama. That was a GREAT suggestion! He was able to figureout the glitch and minor modification and now, everything seems to be firing in all cylinders. Thanks again for the information in your videos and for taking the time to answer back (you were the only one who did- I highly appreciate it) I'm now a new subscriber.
Just ordered one while sending my Godox XPro back. How has the Bluetooth worked out? If it works that would be excellent for a remote trigger. Just having a button backlight makes it worth it to me. Thanks for the review.
I've only used the Bluetooth about a dozen times. It does work as designed. Just wish that trigger adjustments were reflected on the app and vise versa. But that's only to use it as a training tool.
Images by Design thanks for the reply. Trigger adjustments not following? Not sure what you mean. Also I don’t seem to have an ALL option in TTL. I usually use manual but sometimes when in dynamic situations it just works. I can change flash exposure compensation on camera which changes all but not on remote, which worked on XCpro. Lastly, I see some progress with the MArk II but it seems like a rushed design and needs updates. Redundant buttons are an HMI no no...
Nice review. You made the R2 seem a little more user friendly then I thought they would be by just a photo. I really like the back lighting on the buttons.
HELP!! I just bought the Flashpoint Zoom Li-ion R2 TTL with the Flashpoint R2 Pro MarkII 2.4GHz Transmitter for Nikon from Adorama. Whew. Anyway, I need to do some product photography and need to use High Speed Sync. I did everything that the "manual" said. Went online, TH-cam and still can't make it work. I have a D7000 Nikon. I change the flash sync speed (1/250s or 1/320s auto fp) under the bracketing/flash setting in the camera. I tried and press the HSS symbol on the transmitter. Both on the side and on the lower panel.. sync. The symbol on the screen sometimes works and sometimes it doesn’t. Then, when I think I’ve got it, and try to set my camera on Manual and try to go to 3200 or higher speed, the camera only stays at 320!!! Also, I leave the Flash Control for Built in Flash setting on TTL. I’ve tried all the options even the commander mode. If I take the transmitter off the hot shoe the camera has no problem reaching those speeds. (My old sb600 had no problem doing this) Then, if I’m lucky to actually get it to accept that speed the image is only half way visible?!?!?! I’ve tried every flash setting from rear curtain, no curtain, etc., and the results are the same. On the flash side of things: Power on -Screen shows i-TTL, then mode button until I can see SYNC above the 4h button, select the sync button until the HSS symbol appears, then depress the select button on the far right until the -radio- symbol appears and the flash is orange or slave mode. By the way. Should the zoom feature on the flash made a whirring-buzzing sound?! This happens only when changing the zoom on the flash. Oh, and a last question. When using the flash off camera I cannot see the zoom changing on the flash when changing it from the transmitter. What the crud am I doing wrong?! Did I just buy into the hype and got an inferior product. Should I had saved and get a Nikon flash and some pocket wizards?! I believe you can help me figure this out. Thank you so much in advance. Ed - I’m asking these questions from anyone who can help me!!!
Hi @amthunder1. Let me address your comments in a random order. 1) The whirring-buzzing sound is the flash's zoom. It's moving the flash tube back and forth in the barrel to match the zoom setting on the strobe, trigger, or (if in auto mode with the flash head in home position) mirroring (if it can) the zoom setting of your lens as you move that in/out. 2) Not all setting changes on the trigger are reflected in real-time on the OCF or strobe display. Power level is, but other settings like TTL flash compensation are only sent/calculated to the strobe at the time you trigger the flash. 3) Your camera settings like x-sync speed, curtain mode, and flash commander mode, are not transmitted to the trigger/speedlight through the shoe. In the other direction, the camera only sees if a) a strobe/trigger is connected, b) is HSS currently active and c) does the system support TTL. 4) from what you describe, you should be able to consistently turn HSS on/off on the trigger with either the dedicated button or context sensitive button along the bottom of the display. If this is not consistently toggling, I'd suspect there is some issue between your camera (what firmware are you running there?) and the trigger (what firmware is there?) Your best resource is to email brands@adorama.com. Shua knows this system very well and can help you out. 5) Just my own comment, having used this ecosystem with many Nikon, Canon, Sony, Fujifilm, and M43 (Panasonic) cameras for many years now, it is still the absolute most ubiquitous and best bang for the buck system available. I hope Shua can get you fixed up so you can start to enjoy your system very soon.
@@ImagesbyDesign Thank you so much for fast responce. I'm going to update the software if needed it. I haven't delved into it as yet. Busy! :) I will definetly contact Shua at adorama. I'm pretty ecxited about being able to use this system with the work I want to do. Once again, thank you for your knowledge and help. I'll keep watching the channel. Ed
Can I control an Xtr16 paired with an SK300 mark i and control power output and modeling lamp? Please answer hehe I have the x pro but it only triggers the flashes no power or any form of control and would like to buy this but am afraid of it just being the sane as the x pro. Thank you!
Bought it October 20 and still waiting for it. I had to use my ad200 as optical slave. hope getting it soon because it still backorder. Bought this version because hi sync and lit button function,
Yes, but the AF assist light on all of these Godox triggers isn't the best. It lays down a diamond plate type pattern so further than about 8 ft away from your subject and your AF point is just as likely to fall between the slashes as on them. I end up having to select a different AF point then recompose after lock.
Yes, the R2 Pro II is 4mm taller and 7mm wider than the first gen trigger. However, after shooting with this for many months now, on camera I don't feel the difference. The added dedicated buttons make shooting so much more intuitive that any added bulk is lost in the noise.
Forget this trigger, you are better off with the cheap old version..Here is Pro tip why.... What Godox-Flashpoint need is design that allows the screen to be tilted up and down. This way you can see it while looking at the viewfinder position with taller tripod or angles vs trying to be above the camera, and then when you are looking down you can flip it to see it from above. Otherwise you now need 2 products that NEITHER really do a good job. I DO like the direct control of the R2(above view) but the batteries go much faster due to the larger screen. Not really an issue, but that screen can be dimmer or even a high contrast phosphor type with light, high contrast without such a bright light.But not a deal breaker. Have both and the ORIGINAL smaller FRONT view is MORE useful. I leave the R2 "Pro mkII " behind.
I agree that when you camera is tripod mounted at eye level the controls are not readable. I keep one of the original triggers in my bag for those rare occasions. as to the backlighting, you can adjust the brightness easily in the menu. Battery life is excellent if you use standard alkaline cells.
@@ImagesbyDesign I need it very often as I use a rig to mount a 7" screen on when doing location shoots on a tripod, and due to the top rig plate you cant even use it in low position.
Menus vs buttons: Menus suck. I had to make cheat sheets for my Canon flashes so I would be able to set them up on location without ripping my hair out..
Im sorry but this controler is so far from usable that it looks like it was made by someone who actually never had any experience with user interface. Almost resembles when kids assemble something out of leftover lego`s. Put any button anyplace that it fits. No round ABCDE is not intuitive, if anything its counter intuitive. It almost makes you either spend hours memorising all functions or carry manual in your photo, just to know what is what. Also right row is reduntant since its onscreen buttons do it all already. Huge mess and a product i will not be buying.
Miha, I just received one and the interface becomes familiar and fast in about 15 minutes of use. I would expect that most of us won't have more than 3 groups and the first three (A,B,C) are right next to the home place for your thumb. Once the transmitter is setup for your flashes and camera, running it mostly only uses the a,b,c buttons, round wheel, and the set button. You might need the mode button to flip from ttl to manual, but it's right there close too. Overall the interface is much faster than just about any app I use on my phone. I love the interface but I didn't have to relearn anything because I didn't have the original version.
Great video. I'm a "show" me kind of learner. I can stare at an instruction book all day and then pass out. Audio was a bit echo-y but really helped. Thank you!!!
Hello image by design I was playing a bit with the controls of the R2 pro and I noticed that the test button on the top right, to shoot the groups separately A
Thank you Images by Design
Last week I reached out with questions on my new Flashpoint trigger and Speedlight. You recommended to contact Shua at Adorama. That was a GREAT suggestion!
He was able to figureout the glitch and minor modification and now, everything seems to be firing in all cylinders.
Thanks again for the information in your videos and for taking the time to answer back (you were the only one who did- I highly appreciate it) I'm now a new subscriber.
Glad it got squared away. Thank you for the sub. Cheers! Jim
Just ordered one while sending my Godox XPro back. How has the Bluetooth worked out? If it works that would be excellent for a remote trigger. Just having a button backlight makes it worth it to me. Thanks for the review.
I've only used the Bluetooth about a dozen times. It does work as designed. Just wish that trigger adjustments were reflected on the app and vise versa. But that's only to use it as a training tool.
Images by Design thanks for the reply. Trigger adjustments not following? Not sure what you mean.
Also I don’t seem to have an ALL option in TTL. I usually use manual but sometimes when in dynamic situations it just works. I can change flash exposure compensation on camera which changes all but not on remote, which worked on XCpro. Lastly, I see some progress with the MArk II but it seems like a rushed design and needs updates. Redundant buttons are an HMI no no...
Nice review. You made the R2 seem a little more user friendly then I thought they would be by just a photo. I really like the back lighting on the buttons.
Thank you Dustin.
HELP!!
I just bought the Flashpoint Zoom Li-ion R2 TTL with the
Flashpoint R2 Pro MarkII 2.4GHz Transmitter for Nikon from Adorama. Whew.
Anyway, I need to do some product photography and need to use High Speed Sync. I did everything that the "manual" said. Went online, TH-cam and still can't make it work.
I have a D7000 Nikon. I change the flash sync speed (1/250s or 1/320s auto fp) under the bracketing/flash setting in the camera. I tried and press the HSS symbol on the transmitter. Both on the side and on the lower panel.. sync. The symbol on the screen sometimes works and sometimes it doesn’t.
Then, when I think I’ve got it, and try to set my camera on Manual and try to go to 3200 or higher speed, the camera only stays at 320!!!
Also, I leave the Flash Control for Built in Flash setting on TTL. I’ve tried all the options even the commander mode.
If I take the transmitter off the hot shoe the camera has no problem reaching those speeds. (My old sb600 had no problem doing this) Then, if I’m lucky to actually get it to accept that speed the image is only half way visible?!?!?!
I’ve tried every flash setting from rear curtain, no curtain, etc., and the results are the same. On the flash side of things:
Power on -Screen shows i-TTL, then mode button until I can see SYNC above the 4h button, select the sync button until the HSS symbol appears, then depress the select button on the far right until the -radio- symbol appears and the flash is orange or slave mode.
By the way. Should the zoom feature on the flash made a whirring-buzzing sound?! This happens only when changing the zoom on the flash.
Oh, and a last question. When using the flash off camera I cannot see the zoom changing on the flash when changing it from the transmitter.
What the crud am I doing wrong?!
Did I just buy into the hype and got an inferior product. Should I had saved and get a Nikon flash and some pocket wizards?!
I believe you can help me figure this out.
Thank you so much in advance.
Ed
- I’m asking these questions from anyone who can help me!!!
Hi @amthunder1. Let me address your comments in a random order. 1) The whirring-buzzing sound is the flash's zoom. It's moving the flash tube back and forth in the barrel to match the zoom setting on the strobe, trigger, or (if in auto mode with the flash head in home position) mirroring (if it can) the zoom setting of your lens as you move that in/out. 2) Not all setting changes on the trigger are reflected in real-time on the OCF or strobe display. Power level is, but other settings like TTL flash compensation are only sent/calculated to the strobe at the time you trigger the flash. 3) Your camera settings like x-sync speed, curtain mode, and flash commander mode, are not transmitted to the trigger/speedlight through the shoe. In the other direction, the camera only sees if a) a strobe/trigger is connected, b) is HSS currently active and c) does the system support TTL. 4) from what you describe, you should be able to consistently turn HSS on/off on the trigger with either the dedicated button or context sensitive button along the bottom of the display. If this is not consistently toggling, I'd suspect there is some issue between your camera (what firmware are you running there?) and the trigger (what firmware is there?) Your best resource is to email brands@adorama.com. Shua knows this system very well and can help you out. 5) Just my own comment, having used this ecosystem with many Nikon, Canon, Sony, Fujifilm, and M43 (Panasonic) cameras for many years now, it is still the absolute most ubiquitous and best bang for the buck system available. I hope Shua can get you fixed up so you can start to enjoy your system very soon.
@@ImagesbyDesign Thank you so much for fast responce. I'm going to update the software if needed it. I haven't delved into it as yet. Busy! :)
I will definetly contact Shua at adorama. I'm pretty ecxited about being able to use this system with the work I want to do.
Once again, thank you for your knowledge and help. I'll keep watching the channel.
Ed
I'm right there with you with a X72
Can I control an Xtr16 paired with an SK300 mark i and control power output and modeling lamp? Please answer hehe I have the x pro but it only triggers the flashes no power or any form of control and would like to buy this but am afraid of it just being the sane as the x pro. Thank you!
Bought it October 20 and still waiting for it. I had to use my ad200 as optical slave. hope getting it soon because it still backorder. Bought this version because hi sync and lit button function,
Great review, thank you for making my decision on pre ordering that much easier.......
Does is have auto focus assist for Sony ??????
Yes, but the AF assist light on all of these Godox triggers isn't the best. It lays down a diamond plate type pattern so further than about 8 ft away from your subject and your AF point is just as likely to fall between the slashes as on them. I end up having to select a different AF point then recompose after lock.
I'm a bit confused as to it's usefullness . Maybe a further explanation in a utube tutorsial?
Great review - subscribed!
Where can i find the software for android?
Search for "Godox Photo" (big orange X)
@@ImagesbyDesign thank you
Is the r2 Pro II physically bigger?
Yes, the R2 Pro II is 4mm taller and 7mm wider than the first gen trigger. However, after shooting with this for many months now, on camera I don't feel the difference. The added dedicated buttons make shooting so much more intuitive that any added bulk is lost in the noise.
It seems that this is initially for Nikon, Canon, maybe Sony, but no Fuji X
The Fujifilm version is coming soon. You can pre-order now at bit.ly/2RBIUfA
Forget this trigger, you are better off with the cheap old version..Here is Pro tip why....
What Godox-Flashpoint need is design that allows the screen to be tilted up and down. This way you can see it while looking at the viewfinder position with taller tripod or angles vs trying to be above the camera, and then when you are looking down you can flip it to see it from above. Otherwise you now need 2 products that NEITHER really do a good job. I DO like the direct control of the R2(above view) but the batteries go much faster due to the larger screen. Not really an issue, but that screen can be dimmer or even a high contrast phosphor type with light, high contrast without such a bright light.But not a deal breaker. Have both and the ORIGINAL smaller FRONT view is MORE useful. I leave the R2 "Pro mkII " behind.
I agree that when you camera is tripod mounted at eye level the controls are not readable. I keep one of the original triggers in my bag for those rare occasions.
as to the backlighting, you can adjust the brightness easily in the menu.
Battery life is excellent if you use standard alkaline cells.
@@ImagesbyDesign I need it very often as I use a rig to mount a 7" screen on when doing location shoots on a tripod, and due to the top rig plate you cant even use it in low position.
Improving on perfection. The xt32 is enough 4 me
If you always strobe manual (no TTL) then the XT32 is a user friendly option.
Menus vs buttons: Menus suck. I had to make cheat sheets for my Canon flashes so I would be able to set them up on location without ripping my hair out..
Im sorry but this controler is so far from usable that it looks like it was made by someone who actually never had any experience with user interface. Almost resembles when kids assemble something out of leftover lego`s. Put any button anyplace that it fits. No round ABCDE is not intuitive, if anything its counter intuitive. It almost makes you either spend hours memorising all functions or carry manual in your photo, just to know what is what. Also right row is reduntant since its onscreen buttons do it all already. Huge mess and a product i will not be buying.
Miha, I just received one and the interface becomes familiar and fast in about 15 minutes of use. I would expect that most of us won't have more than 3 groups and the first three (A,B,C) are right next to the home place for your thumb. Once the transmitter is setup for your flashes and camera, running it mostly only uses the a,b,c buttons, round wheel, and the set button. You might need the mode button to flip from ttl to manual, but it's right there close too. Overall the interface is much faster than just about any app I use on my phone. I love the interface but I didn't have to relearn anything because I didn't have the original version.