For the modeling lamp buttons, the two different modeling buttons do different things. .Double click on the left modeling button and you get into modeling settings. You then use the bottom modeling button to change between percentage and proportion.
I bought the R2 Pro Mark II for Canon as soon as it became available around Thanksgiving. It was my first time diving into the Flashpoint arena. My R2 pro MKII kept sputtering in ETTL mode. It successfully transmitted the right ETTL information to the flash only about 25% of the times. It was with regret that I had to send it back to Adorama. I ordered a replacement R2 (X1T-C) which has worked great. I do hope that Adorama fixes whatever the issue is with the R2 Pro Mk II-C because I really like the way it operates and yet costs a fraction of the Canon transmitter. If anyone knows anything about this also, please let me know.
Not sure if it will work or not, but we use Polywatch polishing compound in the watch world for plexi crystals. If the scratches are minor, you can also use toothpaste on soft plastic to polish out scratches. Doesn't fix the root cause, but could be a temp solution.
As you have an international following I think It would have been worth pointing out that this can only realistically be purchased by people living in the US. Adorama's shipping charges ($42 to the UK) are outrageous. I see your point about the double tap to switch a channel off. I think I'd find a function like the solo button on an audio mixing desk useful. It switches off all the other channels and when pressed again it switches them back on. Useful for metering a set of lights.
Hey Robert, long time follower, first time "caller" :-) Had a half dozen email exchanges with Adorama trying to understand why my R2 Pro MII with AD600 pro and AD200 strobes would not fire in TTL mode with my Canon 5D MII (either would not fire most of the time, or would fire at 1/1 power). Worked flawlessly in manual mode. Turned out that the TTL protocol on my camera was too old. Adorama suggested I try it with a newer camera. Sure enough, I tried the 5D MIII and it worked well. If you have a 5D MII, you'll need the older R2 trigger for the TTL functionality. And you're right, after using trigger for a total of a couple hundred shots, I was embarrassed returning the trigger with the multitude of micro-scratches on the really soft plastic screen.
Hey, Robert, I think I have an answer for you about the battery thing. So, there are two properties that batteries have. An output voltage, and a capacity (usually measured in milliamphours, for batteries this small). depending on the circuitry inside of a device, a battery can output a different amount or current, using up its capacity faster or slower. Now, ideally, a battery will maintain its output voltage the same throughout its entire life. In actuality, most regular alkaline batteries will lose voltage throughout their life cycle. Now, as far as I know, there is no way inexpensive way to look inside a battery and determine how much charge it has left. So, companies exploit the fact that a battery loses a bit of voltage as it discharges to indirectly determine how much charge a battery has left. The final piece of the puzzle comes with the characteristics of different batteries. Remember way I said about alkaline batteries? Well, they lose voltage as they discharge, but they also start at a higher voltage. Most alkaline batteries are a nominal 1.5 volts when fully charged and lose voltage from their. Now, NiMH batteries, and different lithium batteries, have slightly different characteristics. These batteries start at a lower voltage, 1.2 volts, and they don’t really lose voltage as they discharge. They just kind of work until they don’t. So, that is why the battery meter can’t properly represent the charge of different batteries. The transmitter has no way of determining what technology of battery is placed inside of it without the user telling it in some type of menu. Additionally, the transmitter is probably calibrated to regular alkaline batteries, which gradually lose voltage as they discharge, beginning at about 1.5 volts. Because lithium and NiMH batteries don’t lose much voltage over their life cycle, and begin at a lower voltage anyways, the transmitter is simply poorly suited to accurately determine how much charge is actually left in non-alkaline batteries.
Good explanation but there is an easy solution, Godox could simply add a setting to let you specify what type of battery you're using and change the battery display accordingly, not perfect by any means but better than the current situation.
@@simonbarker980 No that's not a solution. Eneloop batteries maintain their voltage over the life of the charge, so how can you measure the remaining capacity? Sure, they could add a setting so it displays "full" at 2.4V (2x 1.2V) but as soon as the voltage drops below that the batteries are empty and you need to replace/recharge so it's already too late to be informed your batteries have 2 third or 1 third remaining capacity left.
I have 2 R2's and on one of them the battery level always reads 1 bar no matter what. The batteries can be regular energizers or Rechargeable li-ions, same result. No idea why this happens but because of that it's my backup controller.
I've discussed the X2-T separately already. Obviously the format/shape and hotshoe is the big difference. This has the double tap feature which they didn't go with in production model of X2-T. And the R2 Pro II has the TCM feature. Other than that the main difference is the independent control buttons that the R2 Pro II has.
@@robhallphoto Ok awesome thank you. Which one would you personally choose? A lot of reviews have said that the xpro (1st edition) misfires about 5% of shots and therefore suggest the x2-t. I'm wondering if the r2 pro ii similar to the xpro in that regard. Or do you think it is better now?
I've encountered a problem with my R2 Pro II: While the product manual explicitly states the R2 is compatible with the AD180/AD360 and V850 flash units when they are paired with the XTR16 and XTR16S, I'm finding that it is not possible to turn off these flash units from the R2 Pro II. The remote will show "---" in its display for the particular group but the flash itself will not change from whatever its prior power setting was and it will fire. On the other hand, my two AD200s do behave as expected and can be disabled from the trigger. I have updated the R2 Pro II firmware to the latest v.1.2. My older X1T trigger is able to turn off the older flashes without issue.
David Freedman I can confirm what you are saying as I have 2 x AD600 pro’s that work as expected but my AD360 does not allow for being able to be solo tested alone OR to be turned off from the transmitter, this is a problem that I hope they can fix with updating the firmware.
Thanks for the information. I just received mine and the first thing I did was put a screen protector on it :-) BTW I cannot find the R2 App for Android even though the manual says it's in the PlayStore. I tried to see if it would pair with the Godox Photo App for the X Pro but it does not recognize it. Any idea how to get the app? I sent an email to Adorama about this issue just in case. Maybe a firmware update, mine came from Adorama, not a third party seller with version 1.6 although in Adorama's firmware download site the latest their is version 1.5 Update, found out that you have to activate the GPS so it connects. After it connects you can turn the GOS off and it continues to work. Wierd :-)
As for the battery door problem, I sightly melted the latch on the battery door soon after buying the trigger. I've been using this trigger for over a year now and I still haven't lost it- it's just sightly harder to remove every month when the batteries need changing
6:15 why dont they just put build in battery like with V od AD series...1-2000mAh battery would last forever and can be charged in less then hour with type C charger.
You can cover the screen with some inexpensive paint protectant tape (the clear stuff they put on cars) or even packing tape to protect the plastic screen. When it scratches, peel it off and refresh with a new layer. Inexpensive way to provide a sacrificial surface and maintain the clarity of the original screen.
sorry my english im spanish native..hope i make it understandable....in the video you said the transmitter dont need to batteries being recharged everytime used (or something like that)...i always recharge batteries...same time when recharge cammera battery..well..my question is...how many times you use the transmitter until recharge the batteries? aproximately...i understand depends on many factors...but i know by sure now...that i dont need keep charging them everytime....cheers!
I can do it on my R2 Pro Mark II. I have the AD600 pro lights though. I did notice that I can’t individually test the one group with my AD360 however. I think you need the pro version of the lights (I believe).
Peter McDonald Another option is to long press the group you want to test, it shuts off all the other groups so you can test, then quickly turn the other groups back on again by quickly double clicking those groups that were shut off.
I just now bought this. It's not communicating with my xplor 300. It turns on, shows my flash settings on the strobe and changes it when I mess with the settings but it will not flash. What do I do? It's not the ID setting. That's off. Any help is appreciated!
Hopefully someone sees this and can speak to it. I have 2 1DX III's and every time I use ETTL (through the view finder) I have a severely over exposed image. If I'm using live view its fine. I get this same result on both the V1 and the AD400. When I use the V1 on camera it does fine in ETTL (both through the view finder & in live view) so it makes me think the trigger is the problem. Anyone heard of this or has some kind knowledge on how this is remedied? I have the latest firmware for everything (triggers, flashes & cameras).
Thank you, Robert! I still haven't purchased either one, and was looking for an honest opinion about this product. This review was just what I was looking for!
are these compatible with Godox flashes as well. I just ordered a Godox V1 and was thinking about the Godox ad600 but the Flashpoint ad600 seems a better value. just wonder if flashpoint trigger will work with both and vice versa if had godox trigger
Hi Robert good review. It would be helpful if you make a video for beginners how to use R2 pro mark II with one two or three light set up there isn't that much video that is helpful for beginners if there is one I haven't found one yet. Thanks
Robert I just bought a new Nikon Z6 II and this is the trigger I have been using on my d750 unfortunately more often than not it will not work on my Z6 ii. Adorama knows its an issue and is waiting for data from Nikon but I was wondering if godox might have an update sooner that you might know about
Quick question: this new R2 Pro II isn’t working with my Flashpoint Studio 400 w/R2. Is there any compatibility I need to be aware of? Any sync control I overlooking? I have both devices on the same channel & group. But trigger is not communicating or controlling the light. The trigger is Nikon version. Help?
@@robhallphoto thanks for the response. Can you explain this “ID Enabled” you’ve mentioned. I used the previous version of the trigger (for Canon) and right out of the box and power up…..the trigger controlled the lights. Now with the Nikon trigger (version II) trigger won’t operate the same Flashpoint Studio 400 strobe. Thank in advance for any guidance. 🙏🏽
@@paulmarcusphotos ID is a custom function that allows you to assign a 2 digit pin to all the X series gear. This feature was added, so newer products have it by default whereas older products may need a firmware update to get it. It's simply a 2 digit code that has to be the same in order for the gear to communicate. Think of it as a password, even if someone is on the same group and channel as you, they won't trigger your lights unless they have the same ID too.
@@robhallphoto So how is this verified? And if needed how do I get a firmware update? I’m guessing it can be downloaded from Adorama to a thumb drive and installed into the light?
I just move from Nikon to Fujifilm and I have a 2 flashpoint speedlights Do you think if I buy the New godox trigger for Fujifilm Still will trigger those Flashpoint speedlight for Nikon? Great video 👍
Hi, I’m using the R2 trigger with Nikon sb-800 flashes. When I change the power on the Godox how do I know if the power has actually been changed on the flash. I don’t see a change in settings on the flash display. Should any changes show on the flash display or only on the Godox trigger?
Assuming you have a X1R receiver on your SB800, you have to put the SB800 in ttl in order to manually control the power from the Godox, and no you will not see anything change on the display. But you can confirm it's working by changing between minimum and maximum power and you should clearly see the difference (whether in a photo or just looking at the flash going off).
Great. Yes, I do have the receiver on the flash and I am in TTL mode. This actually helps a lot. I do notice the change in output power but it was driving me crazy not seeing the settings on the flash change. So I assume whatever power I see on the Godox is the power I am sending out. I appreciate it.
Rob, Great video. I am little confused and can't find any info. I upgraded to a flashpoint Xplor 600 Pro. I was using my good X Pro N with two Godox QS 400Il and SB 900's with the receivers. All was working well. I added a Flashpoint Xplor 600 Pro. Is there a difference using a Godox X Pro N versus a Flashpoint R2? The Godox X Pro N trigger doesn't see the Flashpoint Xplor 600Pro?
I received my R2 about a 3 weeks now, and I will say that screen has not changed from the original. Keep the plastic, because screen its still sensitive to any debris. Thanks for the video I actually went Godox ecosystem after watching your well informed videos. Keep it up.
Hi Robert, just picked up a Flashpoint R2 PRO Mk II. This is my first flash trigger. Opened the manual and I am more confused now than before I started! I am trying to sync and operate a few Godox speedlights; a TT600 and a V860. Do you have, or can you recommend a video on how to use the Flashpoint? Thanks!
Great video - Question: I have a Nikon SU-800 trigger (Infra-red) I have trouble with shooting outside in bright light - looking to get a new wireless triggering system - does the Flashpoint make sense? Please advise.
I purchased this from Adorama for the Canon 7d and it will not work with TTL. Flashes once and not again. Sent it back to be replaced with a new one. The second one I got still does not work with TTL. Not sure why but seems like a flaw that they need to fix.
If anyone is using X1's or X2's (or just moving from another system to Godox/Flashpoint), THIS is the trigger they should get. Just ignore X1's and the R2 Pro. The R2 Pro made my X1's not ever worth pulling out anymore. The R2 Pro II means my R2 Pro sits with those X1's. I love this thing. First off, the R2 Pro was giving a lot of people misfires. I can be close to my lights now and not have a misfire. I was surprised how much larger the Pro II is but that has not been an issue. Second, I LOVE my big big big group buttons! So much easier to work with. I love the larger size of the screen and numbers. I think had one never owned the R2 Pro and gone straight to this, they'd find that the R2 Pro would be harder to use. I haven't experienced the battery cap issue to date. And I haven't used rechargeable AA's in eons since moving to Godox/Flashpoint products (I use the Zoom Li-on for a speedlight). I've been gentle on the gear so the scratch issue hasn't been much. If there's one thing I'd want them to improve on, it's making the focus beam as strong as the Yongnuo 622 trigger. That's the best focus beam ever made.
Yeah, it would. You would have power control IF your Yongnuo are TTL. But, I don't think buying receivers makes sense any more. Better to just sell the Yongnuo and guy Godox flashes
@@robhallphoto Hi Rob, good point. I bought 2 of the latest Yongnuo flashed only months ago ( YN600EX-RT II ) and then bought 2 Godox receivers ( X1-R ) to get those to work with the setup, they work well, but yes, I now see I should have just gone with Godox flashes. Live and learn. I do wonder why Godox hasn't releases an official update to the X-Pro transmitters ( I just bought 2 of those about 6 months ago ) ( so in a way I feel better they haven't updated them... but these new ones do look nice ) Thanks for the reply Robert, appreciate it !
Why some people in the comments complain about misfires? I use Nikon , and I just ordered the Mark II but canceled my order for the R2 Pro Godox, but I'm still getting it. So I can choose but I cannot use both. So please help is the Mark II reliable for Nikon ? I have two V860 II
Thank you so much, Robert. I needed to check this video out. My situation is that i have an Olympus E-M1 Mark III and 3 Nikon flashes and 1 Phottix Mitros+ (for Nikon) flash. My current trigger and receivers are Phottix Oden II for Nikon, but their manual flash trigger won't support the Olympus body, except for setting the flashes at the flashes, not from the trigger. So. I need a trigger and receivers that will be compatible with the Olympus and remote control Nikon and "for Nikon" flashes. Halp!
Hi Robert. I have been a Nikon user for a long time and have bought V860II flash units to work to Nikon. I am looking to buy a Sony A7RIII and wonder is there a way to continue using the flash units when I have the R2 for Sony? Or do I need to bite the bullet and buy another three V860II - S?
Would you direct me to a video on how to use these with the AD200. I bought Flashpoint Nikon. I am self taught and need some more direction. I have two of each.
Hi. I have just got the xpro transmitter 1 for Nikon. When I take a picture the picture its a reddish colour when I turn the xpro off the pictures are normal. I have Nikon d5600. I only have the transmitter am getting the ad360ii tomorrow. Any help would be appreciated thanks
I can't use the Godox/Flashpoint strobes with the remote in Manual mode, TTL only on my a7RIII, I updated the firmware to the latest version. Am I missing a setting in the camera or is it TTL only on Sony? I was sure I had used Manual mode on the strobes in the past.
I use mine with M on a Sony A7III and always have. What model strobes are you using? What flash setting do you have on your camera when using the trigger?
Curious to hear if anyone is experiencing better battery life in the new version? I have the xpro for fuji and the battery life is shoooocking. Learnt that it hates eneloops so I switched for regular single use batteries and it tripled the battery life, but it’s still pretty crap. Have I just got a bad copy? Anyone else had that issue? Really hoping the new one lasts a fair bit longer...
If you still need the answer-- just use alkaline batteries in the trigger. Use li-ion batteries in anything that's not a trigger. It measures voltage to guess at remaining battery life and rechargable batteries have a lower but much more consistent voltage, causing the trigger to register them incorrectly.
I don't have any. Generally misifres come from one of the following: antiflicker mode on electronic front curtain sync on not being on fill-flash out of date firmware.
Hi, for seem reason I can no longer change the -\- TTL values of any of my Flashpoint flashes (V860II, AD200, AD600) from any of my Godox\Flashpoint triggers R2, R2 Pro, R2 Pro II), values only chnage in manual mode, not TTL?
Does this new Mark II transmitter trigger high speed sync? I am a bit annoyed that the Mark I version does not activate HSS from the transmitter. On the XPLOR 600 Pro I have to turn on HSS manually. Also, does it matter if I just left the strobe on HSS all the time? I am hoping a firmware update can address this issue.
The original transmitter does indeed activate HSS from the transmitter. You activate it with the 2nd soft button from the left where it says “SYNC”. Hope it helps.
Hello Robert, thank you for your informative video. Can you tell me if this new Flashpoint R2 Pro Mk II will control the Flashpoint RL-600B by itself ?
Thanks for the video dude! Have the same question as some other users. Just switched to a7 III from nikon. Does the focus assist beam work with Sony in AF-S?
I've got a video on that coming soon. I'm going to make sure all firmwares are up to date and find out which products actually function with AF assist.
Great review, Rob. If I was buying a new trigger I would without a doubt by the Pro II version. That being said, I don't see anything making me want to ditch mine and by new ones.
good honest review ... I like it if the display numbers are bigger.. Im short sited & fumbling to put my glasses on every time I wanna adjust something is often not practical... sadly im in UK ..& not available here ..
Well, there goes another $69 bucks! As usual, great informative video. Every time I watch one of your video I want to buy more gear, and all the gear you've recommended, which I've purchased, has really helped boost my work. Thanks again Rob!
You might want to try out Novus plastic polish to buff out all the scratches on your trigger screen. It's not a perfect solution, but it's a reasonable fix. I agree with you that the screens scratch way too easily (R2 Pro II here).
Thanks. I was going to look into what people use for car headlights. I know there are some that essentially remove a layer of plastic to give it a new clean top layer.
@@robhallphoto exactly! This is that stuff :) You likely only need the finest grit, BTW. Also, thanks so much for all the excellent lighting reviews/tutorials!
Still hoping to see how one of these work with iPhone. Those camera’s are improving to where good lighting will be necessary. Off camera flash will be fun!
can i have a wish list of improvements for this device? - please monochrome display, white on black - less buttons (better usability, and yes this is possible, look at other manufacturers and their menus) - that plastic protector on the display... ugh - battery cover lock - actually usable battery level (just useless atm, only ever need to wait until it actually dies)
For the modeling lamp buttons, the two different modeling buttons do different things. .Double click on the left modeling button and you get into modeling settings. You then use the bottom modeling button to change between percentage and proportion.
Hello Robert I was playing a bit with the controls of the R2 pro and I noticed that the test button on the top right, to shoot the groups separately A
Do you have a tutorial on the R2 Pro transmitter
i am also interested. thanks in advance. thumbs up.
Just got this for Chirstmas. I was using the old X1 trigger. SOOO happy now.
Would you pick the x2t mkii or the pro mkii?
I bought the R2 Pro Mark II for Canon as soon as it became available around Thanksgiving. It was my first time diving into the Flashpoint arena. My R2 pro MKII kept sputtering in ETTL mode. It successfully transmitted the right ETTL information to the flash only about 25% of the times. It was with regret that I had to send it back to Adorama. I ordered a replacement R2 (X1T-C) which has worked great. I do hope that Adorama fixes whatever the issue is with the R2 Pro Mk II-C because I really like the way it operates and yet costs a fraction of the Canon transmitter. If anyone knows anything about this also, please let me know.
Same with me I rarely use it durning the Pandemic is with a few assignments lined up the TT-L function display shows nothing I won’t buy this again
Not sure if it will work or not, but we use Polywatch polishing compound in the watch world for plexi crystals. If the scratches are minor, you can also use toothpaste on soft plastic to polish out scratches. Doesn't fix the root cause, but could be a temp solution.
As you have an international following I think It would have been worth pointing out that this can only realistically be purchased by people living in the US. Adorama's shipping charges ($42 to the UK) are outrageous.
I see your point about the double tap to switch a channel off. I think I'd find a function like the solo button on an audio mixing desk useful. It switches off all the other channels and when pressed again it switches them back on. Useful for metering a set of lights.
Just got this and very happy with its functionality! Thanks for the video Robert!
Hey Robert, long time follower, first time "caller" :-) Had a half dozen email exchanges with Adorama trying to understand why my R2 Pro MII with AD600 pro and AD200 strobes would not fire in TTL mode with my Canon 5D MII (either would not fire most of the time, or would fire at 1/1 power). Worked flawlessly in manual mode. Turned out that the TTL protocol on my camera was too old. Adorama suggested I try it with a newer camera. Sure enough, I tried the 5D MIII and it worked well. If you have a 5D MII, you'll need the older R2 trigger for the TTL functionality. And you're right, after using trigger for a total of a couple hundred shots, I was embarrassed returning the trigger with the multitude of micro-scratches on the really soft plastic screen.
Hey, Robert, I think I have an answer for you about the battery thing.
So, there are two properties that batteries have. An output voltage, and a capacity (usually measured in milliamphours, for batteries this small). depending on the circuitry inside of a device, a battery can output a different amount or current, using up its capacity faster or slower.
Now, ideally, a battery will maintain its output voltage the same throughout its entire life. In actuality, most regular alkaline batteries will lose voltage throughout their life cycle.
Now, as far as I know, there is no way inexpensive way to look inside a battery and determine how much charge it has left. So, companies exploit the fact that a battery loses a bit of voltage as it discharges to indirectly determine how much charge a battery has left.
The final piece of the puzzle comes with the characteristics of different batteries.
Remember way I said about alkaline batteries? Well, they lose voltage as they discharge, but they also start at a higher voltage. Most alkaline batteries are a nominal 1.5 volts when fully charged and lose voltage from their.
Now, NiMH batteries, and different lithium batteries, have slightly different characteristics. These batteries start at a lower voltage, 1.2 volts, and they don’t really lose voltage as they discharge. They just kind of work until they don’t.
So, that is why the battery meter can’t properly represent the charge of different batteries. The transmitter has no way of determining what technology of battery is placed inside of it without the user telling it in some type of menu. Additionally, the transmitter is probably calibrated to regular alkaline batteries, which gradually lose voltage as they discharge, beginning at about 1.5 volts.
Because lithium and NiMH batteries don’t lose much voltage over their life cycle, and begin at a lower voltage anyways, the transmitter is simply poorly suited to accurately determine how much charge is actually left in non-alkaline batteries.
Thanks CCTenor!
Now I have a very thorough explanation to point to when people ask.
Robert Hall Photography Not at all a problem 👍🏼
Thanks man that was informative.
Good explanation but there is an easy solution, Godox could simply add a setting to let you specify what type of battery you're using and change the battery display accordingly, not perfect by any means but better than the current situation.
@@simonbarker980 No that's not a solution. Eneloop batteries maintain their voltage over the life of the charge, so how can you measure the remaining capacity?
Sure, they could add a setting so it displays "full" at 2.4V (2x 1.2V) but as soon as the voltage drops below that the batteries are empty and you need to replace/recharge so it's already too late to be informed your batteries have 2 third or 1 third remaining capacity left.
I have 2 R2's and on one of them the battery level always reads 1 bar no matter what. The batteries can be regular energizers or Rechargeable li-ions, same result. No idea why this happens but because of that it's my backup controller.
That's one of my biggest complaints for the XPro. It's sad they weren't able to address it.
Will you compare this to the x2t?
I've discussed the X2-T separately already.
Obviously the format/shape and hotshoe is the big difference. This has the double tap feature which they didn't go with in production model of X2-T. And the R2 Pro II has the TCM feature. Other than that the main difference is the independent control buttons that the R2 Pro II has.
@@robhallphoto Ok awesome thank you. Which one would you personally choose? A lot of reviews have said that the xpro (1st edition) misfires about 5% of shots and therefore suggest the x2-t. I'm wondering if the r2 pro ii similar to the xpro in that regard. Or do you think it is better now?
I've encountered a problem with my R2 Pro II: While the product manual explicitly states the R2 is compatible with the AD180/AD360 and V850 flash units when they are paired with the XTR16 and XTR16S, I'm finding that it is not possible to turn off these flash units from the R2 Pro II. The remote will show "---" in its display for the particular group but the flash itself will not change from whatever its prior power setting was and it will fire. On the other hand, my two AD200s do behave as expected and can be disabled from the trigger. I have updated the R2 Pro II firmware to the latest v.1.2. My older X1T trigger is able to turn off the older flashes without issue.
David Freedman I can confirm what you are saying as I have 2 x AD600 pro’s that work as expected but my AD360 does not allow for being able to be solo tested alone OR to be turned off from the transmitter, this is a problem that I hope they can fix with updating the firmware.
Thanks for the information. I just received mine and the first thing I did was put a screen protector on it :-) BTW I cannot find the R2 App for Android even though the manual says it's in the PlayStore. I tried to see if it would pair with the Godox Photo App for the X Pro but it does not recognize it. Any idea how to get the app? I sent an email to Adorama about this issue just in case. Maybe a firmware update, mine came from Adorama, not a third party seller with version 1.6 although in Adorama's firmware download site the latest their is version 1.5
Update, found out that you have to activate the GPS so it connects. After it connects you can turn the GOS off and it continues to work. Wierd :-)
As for the battery door problem, I sightly melted the latch on the battery door soon after buying the trigger. I've been using this trigger for over a year now and I still haven't lost it- it's just sightly harder to remove every month when the batteries need changing
I need help. How do I change the channel on my flashpoint zoom flash to.sync with the channel on the R2 pro mark ii. I cannot figure this out. Thx
6:15 why dont they just put build in battery like with V od AD series...1-2000mAh battery would last forever and can be charged in less then hour with type C charger.
You can cover the screen with some inexpensive paint protectant tape (the clear stuff they put on cars) or even packing tape to protect the plastic screen. When it scratches, peel it off and refresh with a new layer. Inexpensive way to provide a sacrificial surface and maintain the clarity of the original screen.
I have the Xpro Nikon model. Nikon model can command just A, B and C in TTL mode, the other just in Manual mode. Can R2 Pro do it? Thanks so much.
sorry my english im spanish native..hope i make it understandable....in the video you said the transmitter dont need to batteries being recharged everytime used (or something like that)...i always recharge batteries...same time when recharge cammera battery..well..my question is...how many times you use the transmitter until recharge the batteries? aproximately...i understand depends on many factors...but i know by sure now...that i dont need keep charging them everytime....cheers!
I have no idea. I do so many shoots and such a mix of long weddings and short quick shoots. It takes a while for it to kill batteries, weeks.
@@robhallphoto Thanks fot the answer...i recharged them everytime...better wait till die and have other couple to change them
What would you say is the difference between the mark ii and the xpro ii
does anyone know when the single group test button will be enabled?
Same here , can't trigger one group individual.
I can do it on my R2 Pro Mark II. I have the AD600 pro lights though. I did notice that I can’t individually test the one group with my AD360 however. I think you need the pro version of the lights (I believe).
Peter McDonald Another option is to long press the group you want to test, it shuts off all the other groups so you can test, then quickly turn the other groups back on again by quickly double clicking those groups that were shut off.
I just now bought this. It's not communicating with my xplor 300. It turns on, shows my flash settings on the strobe and changes it when I mess with the settings but it will not flash. What do I do? It's not the ID setting. That's off. Any help is appreciated!
Do they have latest drivers for this one, cause I simply couldn't update original version no matter what instructions from adorama.
Hi one major question about an issue on Godox series : does focus beam assist work (for Sony camera)? Is it working on the R2 II ?
Hopefully someone sees this and can speak to it. I have 2 1DX III's and every time I use ETTL (through the view finder) I have a severely over exposed image. If I'm using live view its fine. I get this same result on both the V1 and the AD400. When I use the V1 on camera it does fine in ETTL (both through the view finder & in live view) so it makes me think the trigger is the problem. Anyone heard of this or has some kind knowledge on how this is remedied? I have the latest firmware for everything (triggers, flashes & cameras).
Does anyone know how to connect it to the R2 Single Pin transceiver? I'm setting them to the same group id, channel #, and ID. Thanks.
Did you ever figure this out? Apparently the R2SP still works with the older XPro, but not sure if it works with this newer version II one...
Is there a way to make the dial not so sticky and move smoother? It drives me crazy when it sticks and moves to far when I have to push harder.
Thank you, Robert! I still haven't purchased either one, and was looking for an honest opinion about this product. This review was just what I was looking for!
Glad to hear it helped!
Yesterday, i ordered the MKII version. Thanks again!
are these compatible with Godox flashes as well. I just ordered a Godox V1 and was thinking about the Godox ad600 but the Flashpoint ad600 seems a better value. just wonder if flashpoint trigger will work with both and vice versa if had godox trigger
Hi Robert good review. It would be helpful if you make a video for beginners how to use R2 pro mark II with one two or three light set up there isn't that much video that is helpful for beginners if there is one I haven't found one yet.
Thanks
i am also interested in that type of set-up video. thanks in advance. thumbs up.
Adororama has told me they do not recommend rechargables in these triggers.
Robert I just bought a new Nikon Z6 II and this is the trigger I have been using on my d750 unfortunately more often than not it will not work on my Z6 ii. Adorama knows its an issue and is waiting for data from Nikon but I was wondering if godox might have an update sooner that you might know about
Quick question: this new R2 Pro II isn’t working with my Flashpoint Studio 400 w/R2. Is there any compatibility I need to be aware of? Any sync control I overlooking? I have both devices on the same channel & group. But trigger is not communicating or controlling the light. The trigger is Nikon version. Help?
No compatibility issue.
Most likely you have the ID enabled on one of the devices and not the other. That or you’re testing it too close together.
@@robhallphoto thanks for the response. Can you explain this “ID Enabled” you’ve mentioned. I used the previous version of the trigger (for Canon) and right out of the box and power up…..the trigger controlled the lights. Now with the Nikon trigger (version II) trigger won’t operate the same Flashpoint Studio 400 strobe. Thank in advance for any guidance. 🙏🏽
@@paulmarcusphotos ID is a custom function that allows you to assign a 2 digit pin to all the X series gear. This feature was added, so newer products have it by default whereas older products may need a firmware update to get it. It's simply a 2 digit code that has to be the same in order for the gear to communicate. Think of it as a password, even if someone is on the same group and channel as you, they won't trigger your lights unless they have the same ID too.
@@robhallphoto So how is this verified? And if needed how do I get a firmware update? I’m guessing it can be downloaded from Adorama to a thumb drive and installed into the light?
Was the Nikon version discontinued?
Does the focus assist beam work with Sony in AF-S?
it works perfectly on the godox x2t-s in any case
I just move from Nikon to Fujifilm and I have a 2 flashpoint speedlights Do you think if I buy the New godox trigger for Fujifilm Still will trigger those Flashpoint speedlight for Nikon? Great video 👍
Godox X series and Flashpoint R2 Series are completely interchangeable.
Robert Hall Photography thanks for the feedback 👍
Hi, I’m using the R2 trigger with Nikon sb-800 flashes. When I change the power on the Godox how do I know if the power has actually been changed on the flash. I don’t see a change in settings on the flash display. Should any changes show on the flash display or only on the Godox trigger?
Assuming you have a X1R receiver on your SB800, you have to put the SB800 in ttl in order to manually control the power from the Godox, and no you will not see anything change on the display. But you can confirm it's working by changing between minimum and maximum power and you should clearly see the difference (whether in a photo or just looking at the flash going off).
Great. Yes, I do have the receiver on the flash and I am in TTL mode. This actually helps a lot. I do notice the change in output power but it was driving me crazy not seeing the settings on the flash change. So I assume whatever power I see on the Godox is the power I am sending out. I appreciate it.
Rob, Great video. I am little confused and can't find any info. I upgraded to a flashpoint Xplor 600 Pro. I was using my good X Pro N with two Godox QS 400Il and SB 900's with the receivers. All was working well. I added a Flashpoint Xplor 600 Pro. Is there a difference using a Godox X Pro N versus a Flashpoint R2? The Godox X Pro N trigger doesn't see the Flashpoint Xplor 600Pro?
i own a x-pro N and wondering of upgrading to an R2 or the x2t-n. Your opinion?
I received my R2 about a 3 weeks now, and I will say that screen has not changed from the original. Keep the plastic, because screen its still sensitive to any debris. Thanks for the video I actually went Godox ecosystem after watching your well informed videos. Keep it up.
Hi Robert, just picked up a Flashpoint R2 PRO Mk II.
This is my first flash trigger. Opened the manual and I am more confused now than before I started!
I am trying to sync and operate a few Godox speedlights; a TT600 and a V860.
Do you have, or can you recommend a video on how to use the Flashpoint?
Thanks!
I wonder if you can't find a screen protector that will fit the screen on this X-Pro2.
Great video - Question: I have a Nikon SU-800 trigger (Infra-red) I have trouble with shooting outside in bright light - looking to get a new wireless triggering system - does the Flashpoint make sense? Please advise.
Now review on the Bluetooth and how it works with the app?
Would a receiver be needed with this
I hope it has the same circular dial as the V1 has.
I purchased this from Adorama for the Canon 7d and it will not work with TTL. Flashes once and not again. Sent it back to be replaced with a new one. The second one I got still does not work with TTL. Not sure why but seems like a flaw that they need to fix.
If anyone is using X1's or X2's (or just moving from another system to Godox/Flashpoint), THIS is the trigger they should get. Just ignore X1's and the R2 Pro.
The R2 Pro made my X1's not ever worth pulling out anymore. The R2 Pro II means my R2 Pro sits with those X1's. I love this thing.
First off, the R2 Pro was giving a lot of people misfires. I can be close to my lights now and not have a misfire.
I was surprised how much larger the Pro II is but that has not been an issue.
Second, I LOVE my big big big group buttons! So much easier to work with. I love the larger size of the screen and numbers.
I think had one never owned the R2 Pro and gone straight to this, they'd find that the R2 Pro would be harder to use.
I haven't experienced the battery cap issue to date. And I haven't used rechargeable AA's in eons since moving to Godox/Flashpoint products (I use the Zoom Li-on for a speedlight).
I've been gentle on the gear so the scratch issue hasn't been much.
If there's one thing I'd want them to improve on, it's making the focus beam as strong as the Yongnuo 622 trigger. That's the best focus beam ever made.
will this transmiiter work with Flashpoint Sl 360ii
Can this trigger a Nikon speedlight? Sorry if that’s a dumb question! I’m a newbie!
not without extras. You need an X1R-N receiver on the nikon speedlight for it to work with it.
Excellent video. Will definitely be switching to the FP trigger when moving to Sony. Thanks for all the great videos.
When I press the trigger button on group A, my flash doesn't go off? But it works when I press the camera shutter.. anyone know what I am doing wrong?
hi, do you know would this trigger work with a Canon EOS M6 Mark II?
Notice that tape on the batter cover - same thing I had to do after loosing one. I put tape on every new one I got. they fall off very easy!
If I tried this with my Canon DSLR with my Yongnuo flashes, and Godox receiver that goes onto the base of the flash, would it work I wonder ?
Yeah, it would. You would have power control IF your Yongnuo are TTL. But, I don't think buying receivers makes sense any more. Better to just sell the Yongnuo and guy Godox flashes
@@robhallphoto Hi Rob, good point. I bought 2 of the latest Yongnuo flashed only months ago ( YN600EX-RT II ) and then bought 2 Godox receivers ( X1-R ) to get those to work with the setup, they work well, but yes, I now see I should have just gone with Godox flashes. Live and learn. I do wonder why Godox hasn't releases an official update to the X-Pro transmitters ( I just bought 2 of those about 6 months ago ) ( so in a way I feel better they haven't updated them... but these new ones do look nice ) Thanks for the reply Robert, appreciate it !
Why some people in the comments complain about misfires? I use Nikon , and I just ordered the Mark II but canceled my order for the R2 Pro Godox, but I'm still getting it. So I can choose but I cannot use both. So please help is the Mark II reliable for Nikon ? I have two V860 II
Thank you so much, Robert. I needed to check this video out.
My situation is that i have an Olympus E-M1 Mark III and 3 Nikon flashes and 1 Phottix Mitros+ (for Nikon) flash.
My current trigger and receivers are Phottix Oden II for Nikon, but their manual flash trigger won't support the Olympus body, except for setting the flashes at the flashes, not from the trigger.
So. I need a trigger and receivers that will be compatible with the Olympus and remote control Nikon and "for Nikon" flashes.
Halp!
For canon will this work with the EX 600 and the Orlit 610 RT
no
Will this work with fprrr receiver by flash point??
Just picked one up based on your review! Thanks for the info!
Hi Robert. I have been a Nikon user for a long time and have bought V860II flash units to work to Nikon. I am looking to buy a Sony A7RIII and wonder is there a way to continue using the flash units when I have the R2 for Sony? Or do I need to bite the bullet and buy another three V860II - S?
Would you direct me to a video on how to use these with the AD200. I bought Flashpoint Nikon. I am self taught and need some more direction. I have two of each.
Hi. I have just got the xpro transmitter 1 for Nikon. When I take a picture the picture its a reddish colour when I turn the xpro off the pictures are normal. I have Nikon d5600. I only have the transmitter am getting the ad360ii tomorrow. Any help would be appreciated thanks
Your auto white balance is changing because it's expecting flash
@@robhallphoto hey thanks for the reply I thought the transmitter was broken pheww. I can't wait to use it feels really good & easy to use
I can't use the Godox/Flashpoint strobes with the remote in Manual mode, TTL only on my a7RIII, I updated the firmware to the latest version. Am I missing a setting in the camera or is it TTL only on Sony? I was sure I had used Manual mode on the strobes in the past.
I use mine with M on a Sony A7III and always have. What model strobes are you using? What flash setting do you have on your camera when using the trigger?
Curious to hear if anyone is experiencing better battery life in the new version? I have the xpro for fuji and the battery life is shoooocking. Learnt that it hates eneloops so I switched for regular single use batteries and it tripled the battery life, but it’s still pretty crap. Have I just got a bad copy? Anyone else had that issue? Really hoping the new one lasts a fair bit longer...
For the plastic screen you can buy a screen protector of a similar size.
I just bought the R2Pro for Pentax. I can send it back, but they don't have the R2Pro II for Pentax out yet. When?
6:30 so they didn't fix this in the mk II :-/ I have this same problem ! Anyone have a fix ?
If you still need the answer-- just use alkaline batteries in the trigger. Use li-ion batteries in anything that's not a trigger. It measures voltage to guess at remaining battery life and rechargable batteries have a lower but much more consistent voltage, causing the trigger to register them incorrectly.
Thanks, I was waiting for this review comparing the 2 versions for my buying decision. Great to the point video as usual!
Are there still Misfires when using with Sony mirrorless cameras?
I don't have any. Generally misifres come from one of the following:
antiflicker mode on
electronic front curtain sync on
not being on fill-flash
out of date firmware.
Hi, for seem reason I can no longer change the -\- TTL values of any of my Flashpoint flashes (V860II, AD200, AD600) from any of my Godox\Flashpoint triggers R2, R2 Pro, R2 Pro II), values only chnage in manual mode, not TTL?
I’m no expert but I think the exp comp values change they just don’t show the changes on the actual flash when in TTL mode.
Does this new Mark II transmitter trigger high speed sync? I am a bit annoyed that the Mark I version does not activate HSS from the transmitter. On the XPLOR 600 Pro I have to turn on HSS manually. Also, does it matter if I just left the strobe on HSS all the time? I am hoping a firmware update can address this issue.
The original transmitter does indeed activate HSS from the transmitter. You activate it with the 2nd soft button from the left where it says “SYNC”. Hope it helps.
Yep baterry door still not fix. keep falling off when the wind blow
Great video man!
Thanks!
Hello Robert, thank you for your informative video. Can you tell me if this new Flashpoint R2 Pro Mk II will control the Flashpoint RL-600B by itself ?
Will it work with meike mk600?
Thanks for this review Robert! Way better than the expert help I got from B&H & Adorama! Going for the R2 Pro! Excited !
Thanks for the video dude! Have the same question as some other users. Just switched to a7 III from nikon. Does the focus assist beam work with Sony in AF-S?
I've got a video on that coming soon. I'm going to make sure all firmwares are up to date and find out which products actually function with AF assist.
dude the light of 2 ad200 conected on the twin head is a MUST for me, sometimes i dont even use the flash at all
Great review, Rob. If I was buying a new trigger I would without a doubt by the Pro II version. That being said, I don't see anything making me want to ditch mine and by new ones.
good honest review ... I like it if the display numbers are bigger.. Im short sited & fumbling to put my glasses on every time I wanna adjust something is often not practical... sadly im in UK ..& not available here ..
flashpoint recommends using alkaline batteries for the extra power. The meter is probably set for them.
Well, there goes another $69 bucks! As usual, great informative video. Every time I watch one of your video I want to buy more gear, and all the gear you've recommended, which I've purchased, has really helped boost my work. Thanks again Rob!
You might want to try out Novus plastic polish to buff out all the scratches on your trigger screen. It's not a perfect solution, but it's a reasonable fix. I agree with you that the screens scratch way too easily (R2 Pro II here).
Thanks. I was going to look into what people use for car headlights. I know there are some that essentially remove a layer of plastic to give it a new clean top layer.
@@robhallphoto exactly! This is that stuff :) You likely only need the finest grit, BTW. Also, thanks so much for all the excellent lighting reviews/tutorials!
re: the battery gauge, don't they recommend that you do not use rechargeable batteries in this unit?
idk that it's not recommended by manufacturer. Some people have found that using standard AA's reduces the frequency off communication dropouts.
Still hoping to see how one of these work with iPhone. Those camera’s are improving to where good lighting will be necessary. Off camera flash will be fun!
Anyone get HSS to work with this on Fuji?
0:49 Switched to Sony in early 2018***
This is why I like the premiere XD
Backlit keys alone are worth the upgrade for me lol.
OMG I love my xpro xpro 2 looks like it's so much faster and the xpro was already fast. I'm excited because it makes multiple light setups so easy
Thank you Robert. I used google express and used 20% discount for a final price of $55.
Maybe a screen protector should be made for the trigger
can i have a wish list of improvements for this device?
- please monochrome display, white on black
- less buttons (better usability, and yes this is possible, look at other manufacturers and their menus)
- that plastic protector on the display... ugh
- battery cover lock
- actually usable battery level (just useless atm, only ever need to wait until it actually dies)
I bet you could hack up a cell phone screen protector and fit it on the trigger.
William Kettrey I bought a cheap iPad screen protector and cut it up and put it on the transmitter and my ad400pro
I"m going to cut down a protection glass for a cell phone and see that works as a protector. Let you know how it works.
Wish It could pivot back so I could see the display with my camera on top of a tripod.
Can you activate the built in flash as fill in? I don’t have a trigger system yet.
There's no "built in flash" on this trigger
ThAnk you. I meant the built in flash on my camera. Sorry I was t clear.
I’ve used both and prefer the old XPro trigger. The double tap thing would be nice but the layout is bad
It's $69. And it does its job well according to all the reviews. If you want all the improvements...you'll have to pay more.