GOD yes. 10 seconds in I had to read the comments to see if ALL of them were about the insane (and completely unnecessary) "music" - MAKE IT STOP!!!! Why...? Just... WHY? :( :( :(
Thank you! This is the info for the background music: freemusicarchive.org/music/Grossman_Ewell_Grainger/Bassooniana/Grossman_Ewell_Grainger__-Bassooniana-__03_-_Bozza_Duettino_for_Two_Bassoons
Yeah, every now and then I come across a bike that doesn't have the plate or the stabilization screw engaged. Makes a big difference in shift performance! Thanks for commenting.
Joey Mesa I just built a bike with R8000 and used the screw. The front changes far nicer compared to old 6800. Don’t know whether it had the screw or not.
Hi I have built up a gravel bike with older RS685 shifters and an r8000 front derailleur. The throw to the big ring is super super stiff despite setting up FD correctly, verified by your video. I have newer model shifters and r8000 derailleurs on other bikes with no problems. Any insights or experience with this?
Nice video, that shimano shift cable is the worst, it works great for a little bit but then that coating starts to bunch up inside the housing and causes a ton of drag.
Thanks! Yeah, I agree on the coated shimano cables. It's almost a 100% guarantee they're gonna get the coating scraped and scratched a little just installing them.
Thanks for posting this. I've heard much worse music, so it didn't bother me much. What I did appreciate was the super close-up camera shots (however jerky) because the .pdf docs that Shimano provides, while comprehensive, cannot depict the various cable routing pieces very clearly. Others attempt to provide a how-to with poorly illuminated camera shots and not close enough. Yours helped me understand the routing, and the need for the link cover, which is useful , but not required as you mentioned. I lost mine already!
I think the new features on the r 8000 are great, totally agree on that the cable pull angle on the older model just was not right, at least on my Specialized Tarmac... and the cable tuck cover, and the H L screws being independent of tension is great, also the lines to guide installer for correct tension! Yes, overall the r8000 is pretty nice in my humble opinion, also when matched up with r8000 rear derailleur it functions beautifully, like butter! I noticed the music in the background, when I work on my road bikes I put the classical music on too! It relaxes one quite a bit :-) :-) Thanks great video bud.
So when riding in easiest gear (large cog/ small chainring) are you supposed to drop all the way to low trim? Otherwise as the chain is set to have only a small gap when in low trim the chain will surely rub in low position? Thanks
I have a Specialized bike with a carbon frame. It`s a braze on design. I just removed the old set up and installed an 11 speed R8000 50/34 crankset and i`m using a 10 speed cassette & 10 speed chain. Can i pretty much use any FD on the market? I am using SL-R460 flat bar shifters which i have heard is compatible with the Ultegra 6700 series, so was thinking of using the Ultegra 6700 FD. So how does it work with FDs, will pretty much any x2 FD work on any x2 crankset?
The combination you listed should work fine. You can use pretty much any modern 2x crankset, but the newer 11 speed front derailleurs have a different pull ratio, so something like the 10 speed 6700 would work best with the shimano flat bar shifters.
Gee thanks, appreciate it :) I`ll steer well clear of the new 11 speed derailleurs then, lol. I`ve been through quite a few stormy nights to figure out all the technical odds and ends but nearly there now ;-)
Cheers Joey. Been struggling to set cable tension with barrel adjuster, whilst still being able to trim derailleur on both small and big rings. sorted first attempt after watching vid. Thanks a million
I stripped the pinch bolt on my r7000 front derailluer a new one as well as the nut thingy which comes out should be coming in mail few days just a bummer it was my last step or last job was to set front derailluer on my new bike setup just watch out I guess just know they can strip like any nut and bolt keep up guys
Thats a bummer! When you get the new pieces, put a little grease on the threads, Those chrome plated bolts/nuts gall up and strip pretty easily if they're installed dry.
@@JoeyMesa heyz...thx for some feedback... so u prolly read what I was saying I know the reason for my mistake... it basically goes like this that first I used the already existing cable from the previous fd measured pinched up and cut at the end and clamped ya know cable that wasn't long enough to have that slack to grab onto properly but I still was eager to since I wanted to ride the bike b4 waiting for new cable so i would tighten and loosen the pinch bolt a few times and by the time new cable was being installed went ahead to pinch it but the bolt would bolt down fine to tighten by itself but whenever the cable was there I believe a thread was misthreaded and stripped and wouldn't reach it... so it would never entirely tighten I think since there aren't barrel adjusters on fd the pinch bolt to me I think ought to be tight as I want it for good shifting cuz I've done this b4 it's actually an ez task I just messed it up...lol... hey I will put some waterproof grease this time just a nice little smidge and just pulling back that cable tight and than pinching it and not crazy hand tightening it like crazy should do the trick... I'm riding a 2014caad 10 58 cm with shimano 105 groupset mavix aksium 1 wheelset chris king bb30 all I'm proud of this bike build it's funny but its gonna be sweet I was riding a 96' Scott frame which was my beginner's bike than put shomano 105 group and mavics on there but the frame was vintage style so this will be an upgrade in the fashion not function department and function to but ya know what I mean Peace Daniel
Hi, i´ve lost the little plastic piece mentiones by you on the minute 8.35. Do you know if it´s sold as a separate part?Do you know where con be bought?Thanks for your answer!
Hey there, it's called the link cover. I did some quick checking, and the only place I'm seeing is eBay. Looks like the price with shipping is about $8, which seems a little steep to me. It seems like something that could fall off pretty easily, so I'm sure in the near future they should be readily available for a couple bucks or so. It's not a necessary piece for the derailleur to function, but it definitely makes it look cleaner. Thanks for your question!
Hey man! Thanks for this video super helpful. I just got a bike with this derailleur. Does that like metal piece with the tape that attaches to the frame is important. They didn’t install that on my bike. Should I be concerned ? Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the question! There's basically 2 mounting types of front derailleurs: clamp style and the braze on type. These newer Shimano front derailleurs have much more mechanical advantage compared to older front derailleurs. It's good because from the hand effort at the shifter is a lot less. The downfall is it puts more stress on whats holding the derailleur in place. The clamp mount style is pretty sturdy and doesn't need the little stabilization screw. If your bike has the braze on style, the derailleur will have the screw. It basically acts like a tripod to keep the derailleur from flexing inward when shifting to the big ring. Some braze on type frames will have an extended braze on tab that the screw can rest against. The easiest way to tell is to locate the screw, turn the screw in with a 2mm hex or allen wrench. If it hits the frame, you definitely need the little metal plate. If it hits the metal braze on mounting tab you're fine. It's pretty important to have the stabilization screw resting against the metal plate or the braze on as it greatly improves shift quality and puts less stress on the braze on tab. Hope this helps!
Joey Mesa thank you so much for your reply and taking the time to explain it to me. I got a new bike and this little piece was given to me in a bag. I will check to see if it’s necessary to use it.
Yeah, I'm not sure how that works. I get random notifications from the channels I'm subscribed to, but not everything from all of them. About the only way I know is the subscriptions box on the bottom left hand corner of my home page. It has the number of videos I haven't watched next to the channel.
Yes. You would want to back it out to the starting position much like turning in a barrel adjuster in on a rear derailleur if you're installing a new cable. That will allow you to get more adjustment to fine tune the cable once it's pinched down.
Incaensio yes I've seen the new 105 FD-5801. Question is, if the new 105 groupset is due for 2018, why did Shimano give it a new model name to complement the new 2018 groupset which we assume will be called 7100?
Not a lot performance or feel wise. Dura Ace is generally the best weight and durability wise. Ultegra lowers the cost with slightly heavier materials and a little less precise manufacturing. They're both engineered the same as far as geometry and function.
Not a huge amount, but it's definitely smoother/easier to start the initial shift going from the small to big ring. Other than that, I personally can't feel anything different in the shift action of the two.
Really useful video, thanks; but one question - the 8000 mech doesn't have any barrel adjusters in the cable (my old Dura Ace 9000 does) so how can I make the slight adjustment to prevent the mech from rubbing the chain when on the outer large chainring and the second largest sprocket? I know this is sub optimal chain line, but I managed to use the DA9000 like this without rubbing! It drives me nuts!
Hey Steve, once every thing is properly set up, you should be able to use the big ring/largest cog combo. Are you using the trim feature on your shifter? There are 4 actual indexed positions. Generally with everything adjusted to spec, if you're in the large chainring and you start shifting to the larger cogs, when you hear the rubbing start give the front shifter a partial downshift to the high trim position. As long as your cable tension is correct, it should allow the gear combo without rubbing. Thanks for the great question and I hope my answer helps. I think I'll make a supplemental video demonstrating the trim feature and how and what to adjust if chain rub persists.
Joey Mesa even with the trim function it's rubbing on the second largest rear sprocket let alone the largest. Can I use that tension adjust screw? The one in your video that shows you lining up those two white lines?
Yes. With the derailleur in the second position from the top, turn the adjustment screw so the two lines are in line with each other. That should help.
Joey Mesa sorry, what do you mean second from the top? I presume I shift into the big ring, then click the trim function to pull it back slightly then make the adjustment? By the way, really appreciate your help here! Thanks!
jey santos Technically no since there’s one built into the derailleur. I’m assuming you’re talking about the in-line barrel adjusters. Some folks insist on having them, but they have a tendency to loosen up over time. Even on older front derailleurs, as long as the cable tension is set up correctly from the start, in-line adjusters can be more trouble than they’re worth.
Yeah, sometimes it's bad. I made this video a few years ago with my phone and sometimes performing the work with one hand and holding the phone with the other results in some poor video quality. I made a similar video last year that's better: th-cam.com/video/42bSAnk9_zQ/w-d-xo.html
Camera motion was nauseating - literally! Poor lighting and erratic camera motion make for poor visuals to learn much more than the poor user manual from Shimano
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Looks good what I could tolerate... the music is irritating. Had to shut it down... then back to watch without sound.
agreed. REALLY got on my nerves
GOD yes. 10 seconds in I had to read the comments to see if ALL of them were about the insane (and completely unnecessary) "music" - MAKE IT STOP!!!! Why...? Just... WHY? :( :( :(
music makes it really difficult to focus
What a terrible background music! Spoils absolutely everything . Couldn't stand watching it!
That's why I made another version for folks who don't care for the music. More info as well.... th-cam.com/video/T57glZEeJw8/w-d-xo.html
hello, the front derailleur braze on 9100 is compatible with a 34.9 adapter and works for a 39/53 105 r7000 transmission, I hope you can guide me
A good video for once you’ve set it up and adjusted it properly. And then watching this is great instruction for fine tuning. Thanks 🙏🏼
background music is foreground music. turn it down
Excellent production quality, very nice videography. Well thought out tutorial. Love the background music-- an oboe piece, modern? Thanks!!
Thank you! This is the info for the background music: freemusicarchive.org/music/Grossman_Ewell_Grainger/Bassooniana/Grossman_Ewell_Grainger__-Bassooniana-__03_-_Bozza_Duettino_for_Two_Bassoons
Now I know what that little plate is for
Yeah, every now and then I come across a bike that doesn't have the plate or the stabilization screw engaged. Makes a big difference in shift performance! Thanks for commenting.
Joey Mesa I just built a bike with R8000 and used the screw. The front changes far nicer compared to old 6800. Don’t know whether it had the screw or not.
Very irritating background music and for what reason? Shut video and searched for another one!
Ouch!!! I'll have a revised version uploaded tomorrow.
Firstly, lose the bloody annoying background music and please, please KEEP YOUR CAMERA STILL.
Hi I have built up a gravel bike with older RS685 shifters and an r8000 front derailleur. The throw to the big ring is super super stiff despite setting up FD correctly, verified by your video. I have newer model shifters and r8000 derailleurs on other bikes with no problems. Any insights or experience with this?
Are r7000 r8000 and r9100 have the same style of adjustments?
Yes
Nice Video. Thanks !!
You're welcome! I really appreciate it and thanks for commenting on the video!
great video lousy nauseating music
Thanks for your feedback.
Nice video, that shimano shift cable is the worst, it works great for a little bit but then that coating starts to bunch up inside the housing and causes a ton of drag.
Thanks! Yeah, I agree on the coated shimano cables. It's almost a 100% guarantee they're gonna get the coating scraped and scratched a little just installing them.
Thanks for posting this. I've heard much worse music, so it didn't bother me much. What I did appreciate was the super close-up camera shots (however jerky) because the .pdf docs that Shimano provides, while comprehensive, cannot depict the various cable routing pieces very clearly. Others attempt to provide a how-to with poorly illuminated camera shots and not close enough. Yours helped me understand the routing, and the need for the link cover, which is useful , but not required as you mentioned. I lost mine already!
Distinct and Clear, here I go O/O°
Great information!
Thank you!
I think the new features on the r 8000 are great, totally agree on that the cable pull angle on the older model just was not right, at least on my Specialized Tarmac... and the cable tuck cover, and the H L screws being independent of tension is great, also the lines to guide installer for correct tension! Yes, overall the r8000 is pretty nice in my humble opinion, also when matched up with r8000 rear derailleur it functions beautifully, like butter! I noticed the music in the background, when I work on my road bikes I put the classical music on too! It relaxes one quite a bit :-) :-)
Thanks great video bud.
You're welcome! Thanks for your feedback!
So when riding in easiest gear (large cog/ small chainring) are you supposed to drop all the way to low trim? Otherwise as the chain is set to have only a small gap when in low trim the chain will surely rub in low position? Thanks
Yes
I have a Specialized bike with a carbon frame. It`s a braze on design. I just removed the old set up and installed an 11 speed R8000 50/34 crankset and i`m using a 10 speed cassette & 10 speed chain. Can i pretty much use any FD on the market? I am using SL-R460 flat bar shifters which i have heard is compatible with the Ultegra 6700 series, so was thinking of using the Ultegra 6700 FD. So how does it work with FDs, will pretty much any x2 FD work on any x2 crankset?
The combination you listed should work fine. You can use pretty much any modern 2x crankset, but the newer 11 speed front derailleurs have a different pull ratio, so something like the 10 speed 6700 would work best with the shimano flat bar shifters.
Gee thanks, appreciate it :) I`ll steer well clear of the new 11 speed derailleurs then, lol. I`ve been through quite a few stormy nights to figure out all the technical odds and ends but nearly there now ;-)
Cheers Joey. Been struggling to set cable tension with barrel adjuster, whilst still being able to trim derailleur on both small and big rings. sorted first attempt after watching vid. Thanks a million
Awesome! I'm glad the video was helpful! Thank you for your feedback!!
I stripped the pinch bolt on my r7000 front derailluer a new one as well as the nut thingy which comes out should be coming in mail few days just a bummer it was my last step or last job was to set front derailluer on my new bike setup just watch out I guess just know they can strip like any nut and bolt keep up guys
Thats a bummer! When you get the new pieces, put a little grease on the threads, Those chrome plated bolts/nuts gall up and strip pretty easily if they're installed dry.
@@JoeyMesa heyz...thx for some feedback... so u prolly read what I was saying I know the reason for my mistake... it basically goes like this that first I used the already existing cable from the previous fd measured pinched up and cut at the end and clamped ya know cable that wasn't long enough to have that slack to grab onto properly but I still was eager to since I wanted to ride the bike b4 waiting for new cable so i would tighten and loosen the pinch bolt a few times and by the time new cable was being installed went ahead to pinch it but the bolt would bolt down fine to tighten by itself but whenever the cable was there I believe a thread was misthreaded and stripped and wouldn't reach it... so it would never entirely tighten I think since there aren't barrel adjusters on fd the pinch bolt to me I think ought to be tight as I want it for good shifting cuz I've done this b4 it's actually an ez task I just messed it up...lol... hey I will put some waterproof grease this time just a nice little smidge and just pulling back that cable tight and than pinching it and not crazy hand tightening it like crazy should do the trick... I'm riding a 2014caad 10 58 cm with shimano 105 groupset mavix aksium 1 wheelset chris king bb30 all I'm proud of this bike build it's funny but its gonna be sweet I was riding a 96' Scott frame which was my beginner's bike than put shomano 105 group and mavics on there but the frame was vintage style so this will be an upgrade in the fashion not function department and function to but ya know what I mean
Peace
Daniel
Thanks for the video, very helpful except for the music. Anyway to turn off the music?
Thanks for the feedback. I'll stop putting music on future tutorial videos as I've gotten a few comments that it's a distraction.
Very helpful. Thanks for clarifying that the frame guards aren't needed for braze on adapters' that's what I was trying to find out.
You're welcome! Thanks for your feedback, I really appreciate it!
Hi, i´ve lost the little plastic piece mentiones by you on the minute 8.35. Do you know if it´s sold as a separate part?Do you know where con be bought?Thanks for your answer!
Hey there, it's called the link cover. I did some quick checking, and the only place I'm seeing is eBay. Looks like the price with shipping is about $8, which seems a little steep to me. It seems like something that could fall off pretty easily, so I'm sure in the near future they should be readily available for a couple bucks or so. It's not a necessary piece for the derailleur to function, but it definitely makes it look cleaner.
Thanks for your question!
The best background music for bike mechanic tutorial out there!
Thank you!!
A little too loud for my taste.
Hey man! Thanks for this video super helpful. I just got a bike with this derailleur. Does that like metal piece with the tape that attaches to the frame is important. They didn’t install that on my bike. Should I be concerned ? Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the question! There's basically 2 mounting types of front derailleurs: clamp style and the braze on type. These newer Shimano front derailleurs have much more mechanical advantage compared to older front derailleurs. It's good because from the hand effort at the shifter is a lot less. The downfall is it puts more stress on whats holding the derailleur in place.
The clamp mount style is pretty sturdy and doesn't need the little stabilization screw. If your bike has the braze on style, the derailleur will have the screw. It basically acts like a tripod to keep the derailleur from flexing inward when shifting to the big ring.
Some braze on type frames will have an extended braze on tab that the screw can rest against. The easiest way to tell is to locate the screw, turn the screw in with a 2mm hex or allen wrench. If it hits the frame, you definitely need the little metal plate. If it hits the metal braze on mounting tab you're fine.
It's pretty important to have the stabilization screw resting against the metal plate or the braze on as it greatly improves shift quality and puts less stress on the braze on tab.
Hope this helps!
Joey Mesa thank you so much for your reply and taking the time to explain it to me. I got a new bike and this little piece was given to me in a bag. I will check to see if it’s necessary to use it.
Hi Joey, excellent video great information ..I haven't received your notification on your videos .yes I'll press the bell button that may work.
Yeah, I'm not sure how that works. I get random notifications from the channels I'm subscribed to, but not everything from all of them. About the only way I know is the subscriptions box on the bottom left hand corner of my home page. It has the number of videos I haven't watched next to the channel.
Joey Mesa youtube
If i want to change the cable, should i back off the tension screw?
Yes. You would want to back it out to the starting position much like turning in a barrel adjuster in on a rear derailleur if you're installing a new cable. That will allow you to get more adjustment to fine tune the cable once it's pinched down.
Thank you Joey
5800 105 now has this style too. Shimano released this new design for that old group. They call it the FD-5801-B.
Correct! I didn't even realize it, but we have a few on some bikes at the shop I work at. Thanks!
Incaensio yes I've seen the new 105 FD-5801. Question is, if the new 105 groupset is due for 2018, why did Shimano give it a new model name to complement the new 2018 groupset which we assume will be called 7100?
R8000 vs 9100 FD what’s the difference performance wise?
Not a lot performance or feel wise. Dura Ace is generally the best weight and durability wise. Ultegra lowers the cost with slightly heavier materials and a little less precise manufacturing. They're both engineered the same as far as geometry and function.
Joey Mesa I have full 9000 grupo and considering upgrading. How much improvement do you notice with the new FD design?
Not a huge amount, but it's definitely smoother/easier to start the initial shift going from the small to big ring. Other than that, I personally can't feel anything different in the shift action of the two.
Joey Mesa thank you man diggin the music btw
Really useful video, thanks; but one question - the 8000 mech doesn't have any barrel adjusters in the cable (my old Dura Ace 9000 does) so how can I make the slight adjustment to prevent the mech from rubbing the chain when on the outer large chainring and the second largest sprocket? I know this is sub optimal chain line, but I managed to use the DA9000 like this without rubbing! It drives me nuts!
Hey Steve, once every thing is properly set up, you should be able to use the big ring/largest cog combo. Are you using the trim feature on your shifter? There are 4 actual indexed positions. Generally with everything adjusted to spec, if you're in the large chainring and you start shifting to the larger cogs, when you hear the rubbing start give the front shifter a partial downshift to the high trim position. As long as your cable tension is correct, it should allow the gear combo without rubbing.
Thanks for the great question and I hope my answer helps. I think I'll make a supplemental video demonstrating the trim feature and how and what to adjust if chain rub persists.
Joey Mesa even with the trim function it's rubbing on the second largest rear sprocket let alone the largest. Can I use that tension adjust screw? The one in your video that shows you lining up those two white lines?
Yes. With the derailleur in the second position from the top, turn the adjustment screw so the two lines are in line with each other. That should help.
Joey Mesa sorry, what do you mean second from the top? I presume I shift into the big ring, then click the trim function to pull it back slightly then make the adjustment? By the way, really appreciate your help here! Thanks!
Yes that's correct. All the way up, 1 micro trim click down and adjust.
Hi joey, do i still need a barrel adjuster?
jey santos Technically no since there’s one built into the derailleur. I’m assuming you’re talking about the in-line barrel adjusters. Some folks insist on having them, but they have a tendency to loosen up over time. Even on older front derailleurs, as long as the cable tension is set up correctly from the start, in-line adjusters can be more trouble than they’re worth.
camera work ?
Yeah, sometimes it's bad. I made this video a few years ago with my phone and sometimes performing the work with one hand and holding the phone with the other results in some poor video quality. I made a similar video last year that's better: th-cam.com/video/42bSAnk9_zQ/w-d-xo.html
That video was irratic and of little value for actually adjusting an 8000 derailleur.
Tengo problemas con el descarrilador r9100 sube pero no baja, hay que darle un golpecito o ayudarlo..
Camera motion was nauseating - literally! Poor lighting and erratic camera motion make for poor visuals to learn much more than the poor user manual from Shimano
Yeah, sometimes holding a wrench in one hand and working on something while holding the camera in the other hand and filming is a bad idea...
Por favor en español..