G'day Sam, I've been modelling off and on for over 50 years and I've never seen anyone attach decals the way you do. I think it's brilliant for tiny decals. I mostly do WW2 and later aircraft. There is tiny writing all over most types of aircraft, even modern types. I'm going to try your method because I think it will speed up my decalling on every model I do. If you put too many tiny decals in a tray of water they can stick to each other. Soaking them in water, individually, would take forever, so I risk floating several at a time. Your method, I think, will save me real time on each model I do. I'll start practicing with your method right away as I use the same decal solutions you do. Strange, it's never occured to me to just use the brush and the solution. Still, before the internet, I never had anyone to 'teach' me model assembly. I learned just by slavishly following the instruction sheets, even when they were wrong. My modelling life has been one of, enjoyable, problem solving. Your trick with decals solves another little problem for me. Thanks, Sam. Cheers, Bill
I'm just getting ready to start my first model, and was freaking out a bit because there are tiny window decals the size of a pinhole I'll need to put on. This is a brilliant idea that will save me countless hours of swearing.
Thanks for this.... I watched a video where the person said to use the SOL only to set the decal and I ended up ripping the decal on my Airfix spitfire. I had the SET and the SOL and now will do it properly, it's my first model kit so I'm not gonna get upset about it, it's all practice and learning haha.
Hi that's a very easily understood tutorial on applying the decals, but would you answer me these very simple couple of questions as they are not included in your lesson: 1/ did you soak the decals in warm water first or not. 2/ having applied the decals & used the microset & microsol, did you have to wash the brush in water or paint remover to remove the solution from the brush.
Could this be used to apply stickers (specifically metal nickel)? Usually the adhesive on these stick instantly (the moment it makes contact with surface), making the positioning of them a "one take" affair. Would using this allow me to move the sticker into position allowing me to make many adjustments before it adheres?
Vid was really helpful. Just got some Micro Set and Sol. Used it once by just going by the instruction but I felt like I didn't do it the best way. So this vid really helped me get a better idea of how to use those solutions
I have some experience with decals on my Evangelion model kits but I always used water and such. I'm going to be patching one of my CNW ac4400cw locomotives and I just wanted to see how micro set and soil works
Thanks bud, there are tutorials on painting the tank as well as weathering it coming soon. It's very easy and quick to do so a tank company wouldn't be out of the question ;) -Sam
I do the same with the water but instead of tweazers I use a wet q tip to slide it off and put it into place. And when it’s in place I use the dry side to dry it out. If it moves again I just put more water onto the q tip and reset the decal.
Thanks for watching, yes using both help the decals settle on surfaces including in recesses, I find the Micro sol helps the decal conform to the surface even better using multiple thin coats of the stuff. -Sam
I presume transfers are the same as decals. How much time should be left between the two chemicals as they have different purposes? MicroSet to adhere better and Sol to thin out and reduce the varnish so the decal conforms etc. Thank you
@@waynegarrett1614 The gloss coat fills in micro spaces under the decal to stop air getting trapped causing silvering. Microsol softens the decal so it conforms to the micro spaces under the decal - they both do the same thing. (and I use both). The other advantage to the gloss coat is its easier to move the decal around. With the drawback of it's easier for the decal the slip before it dries...
I’ve done models for some ten years, I remember deciding not to use transfers already super early, rather giving ago at freehanding. I was suprised to see that it wasn’t just me being a kid. They are a real pain in the ass and I am amazed GW still doesn’t have decal softner. Even god damn decal example is on a space marine shoulder pad. Even with years of modelling it’s just stupid, you’d really think they would’ve already improved them to the point on pure water solution and fixes to shapes
hello, im looking to buy these solutions. But do micro sol and microsret react with Vallejo paints and Vallejo gloss varnishes? i am concerned that these solutions can dissolve my paint.
Hello. I heard you mention some people use a clear coat underneath, which brings me to my project. I will be customizing a few die cast metal aircraft models, which already are clear coated; some already painted underneath, and one that is polished zinc with clear coat. Once I have gone through the method of applying the decals as you have shown, can I finish them off with a clear coat of their own to protect them? If so, what do you recommend as the best method to make it appear seamless without interfering with the existing clear coat underneath? Thank you for any help you can offer. Cheers.
So i have a question for Wargamer, Im doing alot of realism motorcycle kits, and some of the decals are just so awkward to set on curved surfaces, do does micro sol partially melt the stiffer decals allowing them to conform into the pin lines and creases without just looking like a crappy stiff sticker? reason Is, i have only used mr mark setter, and in need of somthing that softens decals abit so they are slightly flimsy/thinner and easier to conform to almost any surface texture? much appriciated!
Great video, question for you though. After you apply the second micro product and it drys can you see the slight lip from the transfer? Also does either of these products change the hue or tint to your paint job, or perhaps add a shine?
Thanks! Whether you can see the lip depends on the transfer, some of the old GW ones are quite thick but the new ones tend to be better, this stuff certainly helps but if you are getting an obvious lip try a layer of lahmian medium over the top once fully dry - Phil
Thanks this was the best video i found for using micro sol and set. other videos just didnt get to the point. I am building a Tamiya A-10 aircraft the micro sol really made the little cockpit stickers brighten up and clearer to see.
Good information. I have kind of a silly question(s) Do you use the same brush for the microset and microsol? Do you apply them one right after the other or does the decal have to sit a bit before you apply the microsol?
+Mike Rinehart I let the set dry completely and then apply sol and I always clean the brush in between. Let me know how it goes otherwise I chicken out trying anything else as decals are always the last step and I don't want to ruin anything! -Sam
+WargamerOnline I've got the microset/microsol combo and solvaset which is supposed to be a one and done type of thing. I've never used any of them before. I'm just now getting back into modelling and when I was in High School I didn't know about those products. It's been kind of hard to find info on the exact way to use them. Thanks for clarifying. I really dig those battle tech minis. Never payed that game before. May have to give it a go someday.
That was exactly the video guide I needed, thank you. 👍👍👍 I'll be applying water slider decals to a 3d printed item. Would applying gloss beforehand help or will the Micro Sol do the job where there are ridges? Also any tips on how to waterproof these? The item needs to stand adverse weather.
I don't use transfers often, I don't like the 'shiny-ness'. I used to use the 'matt-coat' from citadel to dull them down a bit or I just paint over them (use them like a guide for the image) to remove the shiny. Any better ways/tips on how to 'blend' them in with the rest of the painted model so they don't look all 'shiny and transfery' ?
I use the microscale stuff as shown in the tutorial, it makes them look more like they are painted rather than shiny stickers, if that doesn't work I normally add a final matt varnish spray afterwards and then they look great but potentially using Lahmian Medium as a thin layer over the top may remove the shine also. -Sam
I wasn't sure how that microscale stuff finish would look like (maybe I missed what ya said, soz) Lahmian Medium, didn't even think about that.. will try next time.. thanks :)
I don't get it. Went and spent money on the Micro Sol, but all it does is ruin my decals. Wrinkles and discolors them terribly. And you touch them at all after application to smooth them, they disintegrate!
I have no idea why that is happening? I've never had that issue with any of mine. What make are the decals? I'll ask around and see if anyone else has had that issue.
@@Metabreakers Thanks for responding. I'm just frustrated, as I've put around 70+ hours into this little thing so far, and the decals are not cooperating. lol "Hasegawa" I believe is the model brand. I'm wondering if it is old, as it's a Macross Transformer/Robotech fig originally from 1984. I thought it was a new remake/reissue, as I ordered it off Amazon.com about a year ago, but with the problems I'm having, I wonder if it's actually old? Half the decals respond terribly to the Micro Sol, and several that I thought looked ok, ...just fell off a couple days after applying them. 🤦♂️
I never used micro set I been using plain water for 55 years, then soak water up with toilet paper and then use micro sol it weeps under decal works great.
Great tutorial, my friend! I need to acquire some of this stuff! I think i got soiled using FW decals. when I put decals on my BB Dwarves, it didn't go so well. :P ~ Wolfbrother Methos
G'day Sam, I've been modelling off and on for over 50 years and I've never seen anyone attach decals the way you do. I think it's brilliant for tiny decals. I mostly do WW2 and later aircraft. There is tiny writing all over most types of aircraft, even modern types. I'm going to try your method because I think it will speed up my decalling on every model I do. If you put too many tiny decals in a tray of water they can stick to each other. Soaking them in water, individually, would take forever, so I risk floating several at a time. Your method, I think, will save me real time on each model I do.
I'll start practicing with your method right away as I use the same decal solutions you do. Strange, it's never occured to me to just use the brush and the solution. Still, before the internet, I never had anyone to 'teach' me model assembly. I learned just by slavishly following the instruction sheets, even when they were wrong. My modelling life has been one of, enjoyable, problem solving. Your trick with decals solves another little problem for me. Thanks, Sam. Cheers, Bill
I'm just getting ready to start my first model, and was freaking out a bit because there are tiny window decals the size of a pinhole I'll need to put on. This is a brilliant idea that will save me countless hours of swearing.
Hi, I have built models since 1964 and the truth is that now the finishes are truly extraordinary, thanks for sharing it, friend.
The best and simplest explanation with demonstration I've seen yet! Am more comfortable trying decals
.... Great Video, great help... I followed the instructions and now my model looks great.
Thanks for the help. 💜☺️
Spiegazioni perfette...finalmente ho capito la tecnica per applicare le decals con questi prodotti della Micro set . Grazie e complimenti.
No more warm water before decals! Valuable info!
Thanks for the great video. Very nice! It is not long over drawn like a lot of videos I see constantly on YT. I really appreciate the video!
Thanks for this.... I watched a video where the person said to use the SOL only to set the decal and I ended up ripping the decal on my Airfix spitfire. I had the SET and the SOL and now will do it properly, it's my first model kit so I'm not gonna get upset about it, it's all practice and learning haha.
Hi that's a very easily understood tutorial on applying the decals, but would you answer me these very simple couple of questions as they are not included in your lesson: 1/ did you soak the decals in warm water first or not. 2/ having applied the decals & used the microset & microsol, did you have to wash the brush in water or paint remover to remove the solution from the brush.
Could this be used to apply stickers (specifically metal nickel)? Usually the adhesive on these stick instantly (the moment it makes contact with surface), making the positioning of them a "one take" affair. Would using this allow me to move the sticker into position allowing me to make many adjustments before it adheres?
Is also possible for metal kit cars instead of plastic scale cars? The red and blue from Micro industries?
Yes it’s fine
@@Metabreakers It will not attack the color and the metal?
Vid was really helpful. Just got some Micro Set and Sol. Used it once by just going by the instruction but I felt like I didn't do it the best way. So this vid really helped me get a better idea of how to use those solutions
Great Method. Thank you for sharing your Knowledge and skills.
Always happy to share, glad it was useful!
Big thanks for this simple guide, I've got an Imperial Knight who's going to look 100% better with transfers applied.
I have some experience with decals on my Evangelion model kits but I always used water and such. I'm going to be patching one of my CNW ac4400cw locomotives and I just wanted to see how micro set and soil works
Love the paintjob on the vindi
Thanks bud, there are tutorials on painting the tank as well as weathering it coming soon. It's very easy and quick to do so a tank company wouldn't be out of the question ;) -Sam
You might find the decals easier to apply if you soak them in water and separate them and apply with tweezers.
I do the same with the water but instead of tweazers I use a wet q tip to slide it off and put it into place. And when it’s in place I use the dry side to dry it out. If it moves again I just put more water onto the q tip and reset the decal.
Either way... I've never seen anyone NOT use water to soak first in conjunction with the solutions.. (edit: before)
for how long do you let the decal softener sit and does it dry up completely?
I cant thank you enough for this video, doing transfers for my ultramarines and its going great.
Glad to help, these products made transfers go from impossible to a breeze and I have no worries using them now I have these in my life :D -Sam
Micro sol on the surface and micro set on the decal/transfer?
How to fix the decal if there is some air bubbles 😅 like you haven't pushed down the decal enough 😅
Very informative video, thank you. Im putting my first one together(german u-boat) and this video helps!👍
do these 2 products help the decal settle into the recesses between armour plates other creases making it look more painted??
Thanks for the tutorial!
Thanks for watching, yes using both help the decals settle on surfaces including in recesses, I find the Micro sol helps the decal conform to the surface even better using multiple thin coats of the stuff. -Sam
You can use a hairdryer to help it conform to curves
Thanks for the video. I’m using the same system but I’m getting white patches appear. Any idea why?
Apply a gloss coat first to avoid silvering.
I presume transfers are the same as decals. How much time should be left between the two chemicals as they have different purposes? MicroSet to adhere better and Sol to thin out and reduce the varnish so the decal conforms etc. Thank you
What do you clean the brush with? Ty
water
The gloss coat doesn't just make the decals easier to apply, it helps stop them silvering too.
Fair enough Richard! I will use the 'Ardcoat all the time now, thanks for the info :D -Sam
No problem mate - I build a lot of AFVs. I've got some build logs over on my blog: www.richbuilds.com
Not sure why I only just saw this comment but thanks I'll be sure to check our your website :D -Sam
the micro sol stops them silvering, never ever had to use gloss first and mine are perfect even after 5 years
@@waynegarrett1614 The gloss coat fills in micro spaces under the decal to stop air getting trapped causing silvering.
Microsol softens the decal so it conforms to the micro spaces under the decal - they both do the same thing. (and I use both).
The other advantage to the gloss coat is its easier to move the decal around. With the drawback of it's easier for the decal the slip before it dries...
Great tutorial, just what i needed! Quick question: do you have to dry off the micro sol after use?
It just air drys for best result, sometime use a cotton bud if in a hurry
WargamerOnline - Thanks a lot man. I just got my microset and microsol in the mail. Going to try it tonight. Thanks again!
Is it OK to let MicroSol dry without first wiping off the excess? Or is it best to carefully dab off the wet areas?
It’s fine to leave it to dry
I’ve done models for some ten years, I remember deciding not to use transfers already super early, rather giving ago at freehanding.
I was suprised to see that it wasn’t just me being a kid. They are a real pain in the ass and I am amazed GW still doesn’t have decal softner. Even god damn decal example is on a space marine shoulder pad. Even with years of modelling it’s just stupid, you’d really think they would’ve already improved them to the point on pure water solution and fixes to shapes
hello, im looking to buy these solutions. But do micro sol and microsret react with Vallejo paints and Vallejo gloss varnishes? i am concerned that these solutions can dissolve my paint.
Hello. I heard you mention some people use a clear coat underneath, which brings me to my project. I will be customizing a few die cast metal aircraft models, which already are clear coated; some already painted underneath, and one that is polished zinc with clear coat. Once I have gone through the method of applying the decals as you have shown, can I finish them off with a clear coat of their own to protect them? If so, what do you recommend as the best method to make it appear seamless without interfering with the existing clear coat underneath? Thank you for any help you can offer. Cheers.
great video thx for great tips, i am real beginner
another time thanks for tuto it help me a lot , great vid !
What about the rub and peal decals?
So i have a question for Wargamer, Im doing alot of realism motorcycle kits, and some of the decals are just so awkward to set on curved surfaces, do does micro sol partially melt the stiffer decals allowing them to conform into the pin lines and creases without just looking like a crappy stiff sticker? reason Is, i have only used mr mark setter, and in need of somthing that softens decals abit so they are slightly flimsy/thinner and easier to conform to almost any surface texture? much appriciated!
Great video, question for you though. After you apply the second micro product and it drys can you see the slight lip from the transfer? Also does either of these products change the hue or tint to your paint job, or perhaps add a shine?
Thanks! Whether you can see the lip depends on the transfer, some of the old GW ones are quite thick but the new ones tend to be better, this stuff certainly helps but if you are getting an obvious lip try a layer of lahmian medium over the top once fully dry - Phil
Thanks this was the best video i found for using micro sol and set. other videos just didnt get to the point. I am building a Tamiya A-10 aircraft the micro sol really made the little cockpit stickers brighten up and clearer to see.
Glad it was helpful!
It helps thank you so much
Good information. I have kind of a silly question(s) Do you use the same brush for the microset and microsol? Do you apply them one right after the other or does the decal have to sit a bit before you apply the microsol?
+Mike Rinehart I let the set dry completely and then apply sol and I always clean the brush in between. Let me know how it goes otherwise I chicken out trying anything else as decals are always the last step and I don't want to ruin anything! -Sam
+WargamerOnline I've got the microset/microsol combo and solvaset which is supposed to be a one and done type of thing. I've never used any of them before. I'm just now getting back into modelling and when I was in High School I didn't know about those products. It's been kind of hard to find info on the exact way to use them. Thanks for clarifying. I really dig those battle tech minis. Never payed that game before. May have to give it a go someday.
The decal solvent will wrinkle the decal its normal leave it alone it will iron out on it's own and flow over rivets and lines.
how to clean the brushes after use these products ?
..I just use clean water.
Very nice
That was exactly the video guide I needed, thank you. 👍👍👍
I'll be applying water slider decals to a 3d printed item. Would applying gloss beforehand help or will the Micro Sol do the job where there are ridges? Also any tips on how to waterproof these? The item needs to stand adverse weather.
Would appreciate the same quick tutorial on a hard shoulderpad. I have been struggling with Reiver shoulders at the mo. Grrrrr they are tough!
+Si Mini I'll take a look once I start painting the Reivers and see how difficult it will be :) -Sam
I don't use transfers often, I don't like the 'shiny-ness'. I used to use the 'matt-coat' from citadel to dull them down a bit or I just paint over them (use them like a guide for the image) to remove the shiny.
Any better ways/tips on how to 'blend' them in with the rest of the painted model so they don't look all 'shiny and transfery' ?
I use the microscale stuff as shown in the tutorial, it makes them look more like they are painted rather than shiny stickers, if that doesn't work I normally add a final matt varnish spray afterwards and then they look great but potentially using Lahmian Medium as a thin layer over the top may remove the shine also. -Sam
I wasn't sure how that microscale stuff finish would look like (maybe I missed what ya said, soz)
Lahmian Medium, didn't even think about that.. will try next time..
thanks :)
I generally go a full gloss coat over the model and then a full matte coat after decals and panel line accenting.
Can I use this product on Inkjet waterslide paper (Printed myself)? Thank you
YES , I HAVE WITH NO PROBLEMS, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SEALED THE INK WITH A CLEAR COAT.........
Why would you use that instead of water?
Its softens the decals so they fit the curves model closer is the idea
@@Metabreakers oh ok maybe I'll try that. My decal didn't for the curve like the box art on my eldar vyper
Nice tank, where did u get it from. I would love to buy it. Also thx for the help on how to add the decals
I don't get it. Went and spent money on the Micro Sol, but all it does is ruin my decals. Wrinkles and discolors them terribly. And you touch them at all after application to smooth them, they disintegrate!
I have no idea why that is happening? I've never had that issue with any of mine. What make are the decals? I'll ask around and see if anyone else has had that issue.
@@Metabreakers Thanks for responding. I'm just frustrated, as I've put around 70+ hours into this little thing so far, and the decals are not cooperating. lol
"Hasegawa" I believe is the model brand. I'm wondering if it is old, as it's a Macross Transformer/Robotech fig originally from 1984. I thought it was a new remake/reissue, as I ordered it off Amazon.com about a year ago, but with the problems I'm having, I wonder if it's actually old?
Half the decals respond terribly to the Micro Sol, and several that I thought looked ok, ...just fell off a couple days after applying them. 🤦♂️
@@LastBastian Sorry to hear that, I've reach out to a few of the guys to see if anyone has and insight.
@@Metabreakers Thanks, I really appreciate that!
Does this work on gundam model kits?
Cool thanks for the useful info.cuz so people use it the other way red 1st an blue 2nd.🤔🤔
Excellent! Thanx
Great stuff Sam!
Cheers Craig :) -Sam
I never used micro set I been using plain water for 55 years, then soak water up with toilet paper and then use micro sol it weeps under decal works great.
Nice video.
Great tutorial, my friend! I need to acquire some of this stuff! I think i got soiled using FW decals. when I put decals on my BB Dwarves, it didn't go so well. :P
~ Wolfbrother Methos
These make it so much easier, they look a lot better afterwards and you'll use transfers on everything in the future, glad it helped bud! -Sam
At LEAST you know HOW to Pronounce the word Decal...It is Dee-Cal, NOT Dey-Cal...Like that other British guy keeps on saying!
No "after" shot, wasted 4 minutes watching this