1. Use a coffee cup warmer to keep your decal water warm. 2. If you have hard water, use distilled water for decaling to prevent hard water spots. (My tap water is hard enough to beat up Chuck Norris.) 3. Use a hobby brand clear coat. I've found that Krylon brand is WAY too thick. 4. The age of the decal is important. If it is old, you should put a thin gloss coat over the sheet to help keep the decal intact. 5. Large decals can be cut into pieces for easier handling. These are just some things I've learned from experience.
Thank you for sharing some PRO level tip's. I put off doing these decals because I knew for a first timer I would have mistakes. I also knew if I don't do them, I will never learn how to so.....
good job, guy! a little pro tip for if you have to use decals that are more than a couple years old, microscale makes mi-12. it's a brush on liquid decal film that will hold old cracked or possibly crfacking/shattered together by adding a top layer to the decal. I can attest to the product being of value, I just used it on a 20 year old set of aircraft decals. I used 2 coats. keep up the good work
If you use cotton buds on your decals, try holding them closer to horizontal and ROLL gently to absorb liquid and remove air bubbles. I use tissues rather than paper towels, softer so less likely to to cause damage. Also easy to twist the corners to make a thin tip to get into corners to absorb moisture. The locos look great - good job.
Ron, if you think you may have older or cracked decals you can use microscale liquid decal film. You paint it on lover the decals on the decal sheet prior to cutting them out and putting in the water. They liquid decal film will act like new decal film and hold the decals together even if pre-cracked for you convenience. Great tutorial RON and they look Fantastic! This is the fun I Tado with almost all my locomotives I have purchased over the last two years! Also if you find you need a stronger and I mean STRONGER version of micro set, Walthers makes Solvaset which is industrial level decal film setting solution. Tamiya also makes Mark Fit Strong which I have found falls in between Microset(weakest) and Solvaset (strongest). Thanks again wonderful work on the Locos! Happy New Year!
Thanks once again for all your GREAT advice!! A lot of people tell me these decals were probably really old. Now I have a bunch of good info on how to "save" them and get them installed!! Happy new year to you also :-)
@@classicmodeltrains they may be old? I bought a lot of Burlington Northern E8/9 decals some time ago in eBay, 4 set for $10 or so but they are ancient. Just painted a thin coat of the microscale liquid decal flim on then and no cracking. Just trim them close when cutting them out. I have some very very old Champs decals for Burlington F units just like you microscale ones and they work fine with a coating of the decal film. Again take care and all the best!
When you use the liquid decal coating, only brush on one coat! Observe carefully where you apply it as it soaks instantly into the decal sheet and you won’t be able to tell where you’ve applied it once it dries. Applying multiple coats will make the decals really thick and a bit difficult to cut cleanly. Good luck!
It turned out fantastic!!! Years ago i bought an Athearn Blue Box A-B-A set to do in this exact paint scheme, and now you've motivated me to get started on the project again! Yours look beautiful. As for zinc pest... i once bought a Lionel HO ALCo FA2 to rebuild and detail... the frame disintegrated as the locomotive was beimg disassembled. The pressure from the body was the only thing holding ot together. Worst zinc rot ive ever seen, the stuff can easily ruin a model.
Ron, always enjoy your work !! Love the rockin music for sure. On your black lines, touch them up with a sharpie marker, easier than painting. Fun stuff. Keep on rocking !!
One of the most frustrating parts of using commercials decals, especially Microscale, excluding the price is the fact that you can get a set that has been around way past it's shelf life and immediately begins falling apart as yours did. I found a great solution to this was to create my own decals and learned a graphics program called Inkscape, a free program comes with many Linux distributions, but is cross platform and works very well on Mac and Windows. Something as simple as that red pinstripe could have been created in less than ten minutes and you could have made multiples for additional locomotives, future projects or just save your artwork for later use. In addition to being a free program, Inkscape is backwards compatible, frequently updated and used by many people including professional artist to create their projects so you do not have to worry about it ever being to expensive, to old or incompatible with your system. The more time you spend learning it (which isn't difficult as it is essentially very user friendly) the more you find you can do like create your own artwork for your personal railroad should you choose or create artwork for other people and sell for extra $$$. Since I did this I have created artwork that is no longer or has never been available on the commercial market and as a result, have models that are one of kind and only owned by me.
Thanks for this great information. I'm really good at copying other great pieces of art work but I lack the creativity to make original stuff. I can draft house plans but cannot draw a cat or dog. I'm always in awe over people that can. Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
@@classicmodeltrains No problem as I understand your dilemma. I would also like to add that I consider what yu do with your channel is fantastic as you, elite194 and SMT Mainline cater to the many things that can still be done with the less popular and cheaper models of today which is a good thing. I look forward to seeing more of your content and leave you with the "Don't knock it till you try it saying. You might surprise yourself.
One of the reasons I quite building models in my teens was the damn decals. They drove me absolutely crazy. You did a fine job on your first try. Those locos looked amazing.
Your right on the classic model. Took me 2 hours to get that green screen footage some what "right". Steep learning curve. Thanks for your kind words :-)
I repainted two Tyco GP-38-2's and decaled them for Norfolk & Southern. Those tiny little markers that go on the sides were a royal pain in the ass. One must learn from ones mistakes. I think you did a really good for the first time. Cheers from eastern TN
That's a neat looking A-B unit set, especially after decaling and the wire details. It really goes to show how nice vintage HO locos and cars can look if you're willing to put the time into them.
Now that there ,Ron, is one mighty spiffy looking and operating Burlington pax consist ☆! So glad that you were able to finally locate the decals from hearing about where they might have stock from a fellow railroader. Don't feel bad about the troubles that long stripes cause - I must have constructed over 1000 model aircraft kits since I was aged 6 and the only way to apply long stripes in many cases, that run over rivets or window cutouts is to cut the stripes into sections and be ready with your brush and " close enough " paints to fill in any glaring gaps or splices that didn't match up. For years I have been using plain old cheap Testor " Decal Set ." Then last year I tried Tamiya " Mark -Fit , " strong solution " and whoa.. ¤ hang on for an e-Ticket ride ¤ as that stuff can dissolve decal and paint too if improperly applied, like I no doubt did... 🐴
Nice. I've got a couple of old Model Power F units that my grandparents got me for Christmas probably over 30 years ago. I fixed them up and got them running again and now I need to paint them something other than that worn out Santa Fe warbonnet you see all the time. I'm thinking of painting them like the old Conrail F units from right when they took over Penn Central. I figure it's something different that nobody ever seems to model. And since my grandparents live in what used to be Conrail territory, I figure it works. Lol
I think they look great. The models are amazing looking for the time with great detail. Trying to get decals to lay over chunky details is always hard and I think you did it really well. 😊
Excellent job with the decal applications. I'm a novice at this still after 50 some years building kits. I believe as long as you are happy with your work then your goal was achieved. I was very impressed with your results. Happy New Year Ron! Keep up the good work.
Thank you. I always want my skill sets to advance. I'm my own worst critic. I procrastinated doing these decals because I knew the learning curve would be steep. Now that I have the first one out of the way, the hill is flattening out. Happy new year to you also!!
Another great video Ron! Awsome work! It is very nice to see these old ladies running with a new paint and decals. Congratulations on your patience, spending many hours decaling them. As many of your former videos, I added this one in my library, ‘cause this is a good tutorial on how to work with decals. Have a blessed 2023. And keep posting!
I will echo Adventures in Model Railroading's tip number 4, I was having a hard time with old decals crumbling and a shot of clear coat made them a lot easier to work with. Happy New Year Ron, hope you had a great Christmas as well.
Wow Ron! Not bad for a first time attempt! I’m very happy you got the decals. I still hadn’t been able to find a set but it’s awesome you got them! Believe me or not, I managed to get one of these too. The original owner or someone along the way attempted to drill out the headlights and basically ruined the shell, as far as the front goes. They are wayy off center and am trying to find the best way to start over on those areas. Maybe some JB weld and some epoxy or something. I’d eventually like to get a B unit and throw a power chassis under it and make some really good DC pullers that are older than most. They are great models. As of recent, I’ve been modeling some odd stuff. The paint work is going along well. And totally backlogged right now. So sorry I’ve been quiet. But I am happy to see you still going strong! And to make s great set of engines. These do not disappoint when it comes to pulling lower. Basically bricks on model train track! Take care my friend! Hope to hear from you again soon.
I hope you get that headlight area whooped into shape. These 'Ol Gal's are great pullers! good luck on your project. Good to hear from to Mister! Hope all is well with you and yours :-)
They look damn good I'm actually working on restored a ab set of Pennsylvania f3s made by Barney the b unit was a dummy now it'll be powered cuz I got a powered gut for it but excellent job there Ron
Water-side decals look awesome when they apply right. But getting them to apply right can be tricky. I, too, did a lot of them when I was a kid building plastic models. Awesome how-to vid, your engine turned out great.
Whenever you get a decal sheet put it on the scanner and save the image file. If you need more in the future they could be discontinued but with the image you can print one yourself or find someone that makes decals from your image file. Decaling can be very aggravating and they all seem to behave differently. Start by cutting out a decal you won't use and do a test with it. I've had decals that slip off after 10 seconds and others that won't come off after 5 minutes of soaking.
Hi Ron. I got a decal job coming up. Will be my first one. Not looking forward to it. LOL. I got 2 ideas for you for a someday show. I've been studying the Great Northern and Empire Builder. Thats your back yard. I'm building my layout to that theme. Maybe you can come across something that fits that. Also, I'm interested in the BNSF GP60B....got one? LOL. I picked up a GP60 and did some research but not too much. Anyways the B unit is tough to find in the HO. I just started so maybe something will come up. Just want to tell you thanks, I've learned a lot from you the last few months. Every time I drop a screw or a spring fling somewhere I laugh at you from all your warnings. I've rebuilt every car I have with tuning trucks, metal wheels sets, weights, whisker knuckles. Having a good time with my new hobby. Take care. Gary....
Greetings Gary, The first decal job is the hardest, I just found out. It should be all down hill from here. I don't have any GP60's. (yet) Sounds like you've done a lot of work to your models. Thanks for your kind words and support of my channel :-)
@@classicmodeltrains Well, I havent gotten an email from them yet. Figure with the holiday, it might come later. Doesnt matter though, I've narrowed it to 2 new editors and will be giving them a shot
I have a video already about that. Except I installed a new can motor so it will have less amp draw than the old open frame motor. The video is called " I put $150 worth of upgrades in a Tyco Pacific?"
It used to be in the old days like the '70s you would buy an Atherton undecorated locomotive you would paint it to the Prototype that you were following and detail it to the Prototype to make it correct but now a Chinese guy making $2 an hour just put them out left right and Center. For some of today's model railroaders the only work they ever did on their layout was to sign the check. V a r n e y put out good quality American made electric trains when America made everything. He lived in an America we can't even dream about. But that's the one we model
As to the numbers on the B. Modeled CGW and for the longest time I was certain the CGW just went with the number boards on the A units and maybe numbered the B units on the end somewhere but nothing clearly visible painted on any of the unit sides. It wasn't until someone asked about cab unit numbers on one of the CGW message boards and someone provided a picture of a freshly washed unit with the road number painted on the tank skirts and after a few fuelings the diesel spillage and subsequent road grime accumulation the road numbers would become invisible. Possibly that's the reason the B unit numbers weren't visible in your reference material if the Q located the numbers similarly.
Save the Walthers F7 detail kit for Athearn F7s. I've used that kit before, and it was intended for the Athearn F7s. Also, I like how these Varneys turned out. They look nice.
a few things. 1. perhaps the decals were old. or 2. too much softener was used. dilute with water. 3. solvaset is single stage and less harsh. 4. Burlington white is actually a pale gray. 99% white, 1% black. 5. Burlington and santa fe b units had their numbers on the ends only for the f2s,3s,7s, &9s.
Thanks for that good info. A few fellers have brought up the old decal idea. DANG IT on the paint color....I missed it by 1%. Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
When we did decals for model cars we never used anything other than water. We pull them out paper and all . Stuck them on them body keeping wet. Sliding careful down off of paper into place. We did a lot of those look good on that that looks better with that paint job and so on with rims & tires. But model cars are limited. Once done that is it.
@@classicmodeltrains another reason I got into trains. All you have to do is go outside. Everything you see is model trains. Every detail. Back in 60s and before this area was big in loco. Logging, apples amongst few things. Most of tracks gone. But county records shows where they use to run.
I had a Varney diecast F3 that my brother stole. My mom thought putting it in her closet would make it safe but it didn't. I wish they had never made plastic locomotives. They're inexpensive and they do run nice but I would rather have diecast. If all of Lionel's engines had been diecast instead of plastic then all the imitators of Lionel would have made them die cast as well.
the athearn "f7" became the defacto standard ho f for many years. other manufacturers used the athearn f as their guide for dies. the athearn f was designed using a side view of plans, and lacks countours. all it's curvatures are wrong-roof, nose, and windows and much more.
Ron. We’re you able to find another set of 87-90 decals CB@Q F units 1944-1970? I just picked some up on eBay and the lot I bought has 87-90 in it, older version of the sheet and would probably some microscale liquid decal film applied to them but they should work. Let me know if you still need a copy of the set! :) ! I went on a CB@Q decal buying spree this weekend to help complete some Tyco passenger car repaints. For some reason the CB@Q is the railroad I have repainted most of my refurbished locomotives in, the red and grey and black and grey schemes. Anyway, take care stay warm and all the best!
I still need the Big red stripe and the little red pin stripe. The big one cracked into a bunch of little pieces, and the pin strip I cut into it while cutting out its neighbor for installation. This CB&Q is a very interesting and addicting paint scheme. I can see why you like it!! I would love to see your Tyco re-paints in this scheme. You could post them to my Facebook fan page - Classic Model Trains :-). All the best to you
I was just going off the picture I had of it. It's used in the first video on this repair job. No other reason. I suppose a yellow would have really popped on it.
The clouds are rolling in looks like stormy weather, better put on your rubbers. As mom used to say. I`m refacing my Marx tin box cars and am looking for Studebaker parts and service decals to fit in with my pre=post war layout. Covering the 1930s,40s,50s, time period.
To make your own windshield just get microscale kristal klear hard to explain how it works but when the microscale kristal klear dries it looks like a windshield
@@classicmodeltrains Micro Kristal Klear can do so many things that can make a big difference in the appearance of your models. First, Micro Kristal Klear is a liquid that can be used to form very real looking small windows up to about 1/4 in size. It is also an adhesive for mounting clear plastic parts, windows, etc. on models.
Not having windows in a locomotive or a caboose looks so phony to me. I just keep some very clear plastic packaging from anything you are about to throw out. I just cut out the plastic and put a little CA on the inside of the window and apply with tweezers. If you need a curve for the F7 windshield, just heat it a little with the blow dryer. (Oh was I not supposed to mention the hair dryer?}
Isn't it funny in both model and prototype form that 70-year-old locomotives get rebuilt and repainted and look like brand new and are putting out the t o n miles.
It's great that there are "old Timers" that donate their time to help resurrect old prototype loco's and cars. I watched a few vid's on restored F units. Very good info.
The way they mixed the Zamak back in the day. If it was a poor batch it had too much or not enough of an ingredient so it made the casting weak. prone to humidity absorption and the chemicals reacted with it causing it to expand and fall away. At least that's my take on it.
1. Use a coffee cup warmer to keep your decal water warm. 2. If you have hard water, use distilled water for decaling to prevent hard water spots. (My tap water is hard enough to beat up Chuck Norris.) 3. Use a hobby brand clear coat. I've found that Krylon brand is WAY too thick. 4. The age of the decal is important. If it is old, you should put a thin gloss coat over the sheet to help keep the decal intact. 5. Large decals can be cut into pieces for easier handling. These are just some things I've learned from experience.
Thank you for sharing some PRO level tip's. I put off doing these decals because I knew for a first timer I would have mistakes. I also knew if I don't do them, I will never learn how to so.....
Agree- a light coat of gloss or flat sprayed on the sheet helps keeps the decals from coming apart during application.
You did a great job Ron! You really brought the ole Varney back to life. I’m impressed. The model you showed is Cybil Sheppard. Beautiful woman!
Thanks for your kind words, and you are correct!!
good job, guy!
a little pro tip for if you have to use decals that are more than a couple years old, microscale makes mi-12. it's a brush on liquid decal film that will hold old cracked or possibly crfacking/shattered together by adding a top layer to the decal. I can attest to the product being of value, I just used it on a 20 year old set of aircraft decals. I used 2 coats.
keep up the good work
Thanks for your kind words and some new tips and tricks I will have to look into :-)
Civil Shepard. I always enjoy your videos.
Thank you! And you are correct
Great job, Im working on a E 8 Varney into a Baltimore Ohio . wish me luck as I saw you did a great job
Thank you! A E-8 Varney? Now I MUST go shopping :-). Good luck on your project!!
@@classicmodeltrains one was kitbashed in the early 90s from 2 varney f3s but came up short.
All in all, for all of your efforts and hick-ups encountered, you have done a most excellent restore job Sir. Hats off to you Ron!
Thanks...This one took awhile and some new skill sets had to be developed.
If you use cotton buds on your decals, try holding them closer to horizontal and ROLL gently to absorb liquid and remove air bubbles.
I use tissues rather than paper towels, softer so less likely to to cause damage. Also easy to twist the corners to make a thin tip to get into corners to absorb moisture.
The locos look great - good job.
Thanks for the compliment, and thanks for some more great idea's!
Ron, if you think you may have older or cracked decals you can use microscale liquid decal film. You paint it on lover the decals on the decal sheet prior to cutting them out and putting in the water. They liquid decal film will act like new decal film and hold the decals together even if pre-cracked for you convenience. Great tutorial RON and they look Fantastic! This is the fun I Tado with almost all my locomotives I have purchased over the last two years! Also if you find you need a stronger and I mean STRONGER version of micro set, Walthers makes Solvaset which is industrial level decal film setting solution. Tamiya also makes Mark Fit Strong which I have found falls in between Microset(weakest) and Solvaset (strongest). Thanks again wonderful work on the Locos! Happy New Year!
Thanks once again for all your GREAT advice!! A lot of people tell me these decals were probably really old. Now I have a bunch of good info on how to "save" them and get them installed!! Happy new year to you also :-)
@@classicmodeltrains they may be old? I bought a lot of Burlington Northern E8/9 decals some time ago in eBay, 4 set for $10 or so but they are ancient. Just painted a thin coat of the microscale liquid decal flim on then and no cracking. Just trim them close when cutting them out. I have some very very old Champs decals for Burlington F units just like you microscale ones and they work fine with a coating of the decal film. Again take care and all the best!
When you use the liquid decal coating, only brush on one coat! Observe carefully where you apply it as it soaks instantly into the decal sheet and you won’t be able to tell where you’ve applied it once it dries. Applying multiple coats will make the decals really thick and a bit difficult to cut cleanly. Good luck!
It turned out fantastic!!! Years ago i bought an Athearn Blue Box A-B-A set to do in this exact paint scheme, and now you've motivated me to get started on the project again! Yours look beautiful. As for zinc pest... i once bought a Lionel HO ALCo FA2 to rebuild and detail... the frame disintegrated as the locomotive was beimg disassembled. The pressure from the body was the only thing holding ot together. Worst zinc rot ive ever seen, the stuff can easily ruin a model.
This paint scheme is very interesting and not seen too much. Hope you get yours finished up and running soon & no zinc pest!!
Ron, always enjoy your work !! Love the rockin music for sure. On your black lines, touch them up with a sharpie marker, easier than painting. Fun stuff. Keep on rocking !!
Thanks for the tip!
One of the most frustrating parts of using commercials decals, especially Microscale, excluding the price is the fact that you can get a set that has been around way past it's shelf life and immediately begins falling apart as yours did. I found a great solution to this was to create my own decals and learned a graphics program called Inkscape, a free program comes with many Linux distributions, but is cross platform and works very well on Mac and Windows. Something as simple as that red pinstripe could have been created in less than ten minutes and you could have made multiples for additional locomotives, future projects or just save your artwork for later use. In addition to being a free program, Inkscape is backwards compatible, frequently updated and used by many people including professional artist to create their projects so you do not have to worry about it ever being to expensive, to old or incompatible with your system. The more time you spend learning it (which isn't difficult as it is essentially very user friendly) the more you find you can do like create your own artwork for your personal railroad should you choose or create artwork for other people and sell for extra $$$. Since I did this I have created artwork that is no longer or has never been available on the commercial market and as a result, have models that are one of kind and only owned by me.
Thanks for this great information. I'm really good at copying other great pieces of art work but I lack the creativity to make original stuff. I can draft house plans but cannot draw a cat or dog. I'm always in awe over people that can. Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
@@classicmodeltrains No problem as I understand your dilemma. I would also like to add that I consider what yu do with your channel is fantastic as you, elite194 and SMT Mainline cater to the many things that can still be done with the less popular and cheaper models of today which is a good thing. I look forward to seeing more of your content and leave you with the "Don't knock it till you try it saying. You might surprise yourself.
@@xxxx-hw5we Thank you :-)
One of the reasons I quite building models in my teens was the damn decals. They drove me absolutely crazy. You did a fine job on your first try. Those locos looked amazing.
Thank you. I didnt have patience as a kid to do them either. Very steep learning curve I must say :-)
The Classic model is Cybill Shepherd! Your green screen makes your show so entertaining, it also helps to have a personality😀👍
Your right on the classic model. Took me 2 hours to get that green screen footage some what "right". Steep learning curve. Thanks for your kind words :-)
I repainted two Tyco GP-38-2's and decaled them for Norfolk & Southern. Those tiny little markers that go on the sides were a royal pain in the ass. One must learn from ones mistakes. I think you did a really good for the first time. Cheers from eastern TN
Thanks, But I dont believe Tyco made a GP-38. Perhaps Mantua did when they re-launched?
That's a neat looking A-B unit set, especially after decaling and the wire details. It really goes to show how nice vintage HO locos and cars can look if you're willing to put the time into them.
Thanks! It really came out better than I had imagined. 1945 had some great stuff :-)
Thanks for the info Ron awesome video
Thanks Joe :-)
Now that there ,Ron, is one mighty spiffy looking and operating Burlington pax consist ☆! So glad that you were able to finally locate the decals from hearing about where they might have stock from a fellow railroader.
Don't feel bad about the troubles that long stripes cause -
I must have constructed over 1000 model aircraft kits since I was aged 6 and the only way to apply long stripes in many cases, that run over rivets or window cutouts is to cut the stripes into sections and be ready with your brush and " close enough " paints to fill in any glaring gaps or splices that didn't match up.
For years I have been using plain old cheap Testor " Decal Set ."
Then last year I tried Tamiya " Mark -Fit , " strong solution " and whoa..
¤ hang on for an e-Ticket ride ¤ as that stuff can dissolve decal and paint too if improperly applied, like I no doubt did...
🐴
Thanks Frank :-) Also thanks for the tips and tricks!
Another great video. Glad to see you saving these older units.
Thank you John!
Nice. I've got a couple of old Model Power F units that my grandparents got me for Christmas probably over 30 years ago. I fixed them up and got them running again and now I need to paint them something other than that worn out Santa Fe warbonnet you see all the time. I'm thinking of painting them like the old Conrail F units from right when they took over Penn Central. I figure it's something different that nobody ever seems to model. And since my grandparents live in what used to be Conrail territory, I figure it works. Lol
Sounds like a pretty good plan!
Just want to say your videos are very entertaining. Just found you a couple of weeks ago. Keep it up! Thanks
Thanks, will do!
Great job. They look fantastic.
Thank you :-)
I like when you get bucked off the damn horse..you saddle right back up & sunk spur.Happy NEW YEAR Ron...
The best lessons learned are the ones that were hard. Happy new year to you also Bernard!!
Awesome decal installation. Look great. Happy new year!👍✌️
Thank you! Happy New Years to you also!!
Nice idea on the drive shaft.
Cybill Shepherd
Yup, and I was lucky to find all that bulk tubing. I can make driveshafts for years :-)
I think they look great. The models are amazing looking for the time with great detail. Trying to get decals to lay over chunky details is always hard and I think you did it really well. 😊
Thank you very much!
Excellent job with the decal applications. I'm a novice at this still after 50 some years building kits. I believe as long as you are happy with your work then your goal was achieved. I was very impressed with your results. Happy New Year Ron! Keep up the good work.
Thank you. I always want my skill sets to advance. I'm my own worst critic. I procrastinated doing these decals because I knew the learning curve would be steep. Now that I have the first one out of the way, the hill is flattening out. Happy new year to you also!!
another fantastic restoration ron another one brought back to life great job👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Another great video Ron! Awsome work! It is very nice to see these old ladies running with a new paint and decals. Congratulations on your patience, spending many hours decaling them. As many of your former videos, I added this one in my library, ‘cause this is a good tutorial on how to work with decals.
Have a blessed 2023. And keep posting!
Greeting my Friend Mister Regis! Thanks once again for all your support :-)
Really enjoying your channel. Great to see it growing !
Glad you enjoy it!
Good job from Australia
Thanks
They look fantastic! I wish I was this good at painting/decaling so I could do up my Royal Hudson. Great job:)
Thank you! A lot of mistakes were made, I kept telling myself I will never get good unless I practice. Have to start
I will echo Adventures in Model Railroading's tip number 4, I was having a hard time with old decals crumbling and a shot of clear coat made them a lot easier to work with. Happy New Year Ron, hope you had a great Christmas as well.
A few fellers have put down some great pointers in the comments here!! Happy new year to you also :-)
Wow Ron! Not bad for a first time attempt! I’m very happy you got the decals. I still hadn’t been able to find a set but it’s awesome you got them!
Believe me or not, I managed to get one of these too. The original owner or someone along the way attempted to drill out the headlights and basically ruined the shell, as far as the front goes. They are wayy off center and am trying to find the best way to start over on those areas. Maybe some JB weld and some epoxy or something.
I’d eventually like to get a B unit and throw a power chassis under it and make some really good DC pullers that are older than most. They are great models.
As of recent, I’ve been modeling some odd stuff. The paint work is going along well. And totally backlogged right now. So sorry I’ve been quiet. But I am happy to see you still going strong! And to make s great set of engines. These do not disappoint when it comes to pulling lower. Basically bricks on model train track! Take care my friend! Hope to hear from you again soon.
I hope you get that headlight area whooped into shape. These 'Ol Gal's are great pullers! good luck on your project. Good to hear from to Mister! Hope all is well with you and yours :-)
Great job Ron and Happy New Years!!!!
Thanks! Happy new year!
They look damn good I'm actually working on restored a ab set of Pennsylvania f3s made by Barney the b unit was a dummy now it'll be powered cuz I got a powered gut for it but excellent job there Ron
Thank you very much! Good luck on your project :-)
Happy New Year Ron! Great video as usual.
Happy new year To you too! Thanks for the compliments :-)
Water-side decals look awesome when they apply right. But getting them to apply right can be tricky. I, too, did a lot of them when I was a kid building plastic models. Awesome how-to vid, your engine turned out great.
Thanks!
Ive always been nervous about decals, but I'm going to try now. Thanks for the guide. I'd be tempted to scan my decals and print duplicates
Glad I helped you out a bit. Scanning and printing is a great idea for a back up, just in case!!!
Another great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice job Ron. Looks pretty good my friend.
Thank you!
I was wondering when the decals would arrive.
That looks phenomenal!
Now, I suppose I’m gonna have to start a O Scale collection.
Thanks again Ron!
Thanks Jeb! Decals have been here for awhile. Just took me a long time to get up the nerve to install them. O scale? Probably better!!
Nice job. The way you recovered from oops was inspiring. I subscribed.
Thanks for the kind words and Thanks for the sub!
Looks Great!!!!!
Thanks!!
Great save on these classic locos. We all been there with a decal😋Happy New Year Ron🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲🚃🚃🙋
Thanks Doug! Happy new year to you also :-)
dude nice work . i just started making my own custom locos i am a cnw nut i made a chopped nose sd7 6621 and a sd9 6613 from protos
Thanks! Pretty cool on the custom stuff :-)
Whenever you get a decal sheet put it on the scanner and save the image file. If you need more in the future they could be discontinued but with the image you can print one yourself or find someone that makes decals from your image file. Decaling can be very aggravating and they all seem to behave differently. Start by cutting out a decal you won't use and do a test with it. I've had decals that slip off after 10 seconds and others that won't come off after 5 minutes of soaking.
Pretty good idea you have there. Thanks
Hi Ron. I got a decal job coming up. Will be my first one. Not looking forward to it. LOL. I got 2 ideas for you for a someday show. I've been studying the Great Northern and Empire Builder. Thats your back yard. I'm building my layout to that theme. Maybe you can come across something that fits that. Also, I'm interested in the BNSF GP60B....got one? LOL. I picked up a GP60 and did some research but not too much. Anyways the B unit is tough to find in the HO. I just started so maybe something will come up. Just want to tell you thanks, I've learned a lot from you the last few months. Every time I drop a screw or a spring fling somewhere I laugh at you from all your warnings. I've rebuilt every car I have with tuning trucks, metal wheels sets, weights, whisker knuckles. Having a good time with my new hobby. Take care. Gary....
Greetings Gary, The first decal job is the hardest, I just found out. It should be all down hill from here. I don't have any GP60's. (yet) Sounds like you've done a lot of work to your models. Thanks for your kind words and support of my channel :-)
Bravo
Thank you
You can get solid colour decal sheets - if you cannot touch up broken back lines with paint you could try cutting thin strips of a black sheet?
Great idea, I will have to look into that! Thank you :-)
Happy New Year Ron!!! And 3k in subs? NICE!!!!!!
Thanks Ray! Happy New Years to you as well. Seen your post about Film@ra. Hope everything is ok?
@@classicmodeltrains Well, I havent gotten an email from them yet. Figure with the holiday, it might come later. Doesnt matter though, I've narrowed it to 2 new editors and will be giving them a shot
Hey ron, ever though of making a video of how to install a DCC decoder to the original motor of an old Tyco Mantua locomotive?
I have a video already about that. Except I installed a new can motor so it will have less amp draw than the old open frame motor. The video is called " I put $150 worth of upgrades in a Tyco Pacific?"
Nice! 😎
Thanks! 😁
It used to be in the old days like the '70s you would buy an Atherton undecorated locomotive you would paint it to the Prototype that you were following and detail it to the Prototype to make it correct but now a Chinese guy making $2 an hour just put them out left right and Center. For some of today's model railroaders the only work they ever did on their layout was to sign the check. V a r n e y put out good quality American made electric trains when America made everything. He lived in an America we can't even dream about. But that's the one we model
Yup! I hear ya. I wish USA still did all our own manufacturing.
@@classicmodeltrains a couple of generations have gone by. that skill and experience is lost. the twenty somethings will rule soon!
As to the numbers on the B. Modeled CGW and for the longest time I was certain the CGW just went with the number boards on the A units and maybe numbered the B units on the end somewhere but nothing clearly visible painted on any of the unit sides. It wasn't until someone asked about cab unit numbers on one of the CGW message boards and someone provided a picture of a freshly washed unit with the road number painted on the tank skirts and after a few fuelings the diesel spillage and subsequent road grime accumulation the road numbers would become invisible.
Possibly that's the reason the B unit numbers weren't visible in your reference material if the Q located the numbers similarly.
Thanks Gary for some good information!!
Save the Walthers F7 detail kit for Athearn F7s. I've used that kit before, and it was intended for the Athearn F7s. Also, I like how these Varneys turned out. They look nice.
You betcha! I have a lot more F unit's those kits will fit on. Thanks for your kind words
a few things. 1. perhaps the decals were old. or 2. too much softener was used. dilute with water. 3. solvaset is single stage and less harsh. 4. Burlington white is actually a pale gray. 99% white, 1% black. 5. Burlington and santa fe b units had their numbers on the ends only for the f2s,3s,7s, &9s.
Thanks for that good info. A few fellers have brought up the old decal idea. DANG IT on the paint color....I missed it by 1%. Thanks for watching and commenting :-)
@@classicmodeltrains too bad you don't model PRR. their green is 99 drops black, 1 drop green, with a fleck of gold.
Looks awesome man. Consider me subscribed 👍
Awesome, thank you! & Thanks for the Sub :-)
Looks good. Only you know where the mistakes are so don't tell anyone.
Mum's the words ;-)
Frida from ABBA? Great video!
Cheryl Tiegs. Thanks for your kind words :-)
When we did decals for model cars we never used anything other than water. We pull them out paper and all . Stuck them on them body keeping wet. Sliding careful down off of paper into place. We did a lot of those look good on that that looks better with that paint job and so on with rims & tires. But model cars are limited. Once done that is it.
Decals really finish off the project. Yes it does suck with the model cars, afterwards they just collect dust
@@classicmodeltrains another reason I got into trains. All you have to do is go outside. Everything you see is model trains. Every detail. Back in 60s and before this area was big in loco. Logging, apples amongst few things. Most of tracks gone. But county records shows where they use to run.
I had a Varney diecast F3 that my brother stole. My mom thought putting it in her closet would make it safe but it didn't. I wish they had never made plastic locomotives. They're inexpensive and they do run nice but I would rather have diecast. If all of Lionel's engines had been diecast instead of plastic then all the imitators of Lionel would have made them die cast as well.
Sorry about the loss of your F3. I agree with you. Diecast just "feels" better!!
That expanding metal weight might actually be affected by zinc rot
I agree with you :-)
that pin vice!
PIN VISE!! saves the day....again :-)
That model is Marcia Brady, always had a crush on her.
Cheryl Tiegs, but Maureen McCormick.....YUP!!
@@classicmodeltrains just pulling your chain, your the man, love your page always waiting for next project.
The old diesel dress up kits are made for Athearn F7's
Yup. I was just seeing if maybe they would fit. Found out the hard way :-)
@@classicmodeltrains I found out with the old Stuart F units myself!
@@betsy662 Weird how the models are made from the prototype, yet there all just a bit different.
the athearn "f7" became the defacto standard ho f for many years. other manufacturers used the athearn f as their guide for dies.
the athearn f was designed using a side view of plans, and lacks countours. all it's curvatures are wrong-roof, nose, and windows and much more.
@@suppylarue220 That is of course all true, however, they still looked like F units all those years, and passed for F units on many a fine layout!
Ron. We’re you able to find another set of 87-90 decals CB@Q F units 1944-1970? I just picked some up on eBay and the lot I bought has 87-90 in it, older version of the sheet and would probably some microscale liquid decal film applied to them but they should work. Let me know if you still need a copy of the set! :) ! I went on a CB@Q decal buying spree this weekend to help complete some Tyco passenger car repaints. For some reason the CB@Q is the railroad I have repainted most of my refurbished locomotives in, the red and grey and black and grey schemes. Anyway, take care stay warm and all the best!
I still need the Big red stripe and the little red pin stripe. The big one cracked into a bunch of little pieces, and the pin strip I cut into it while cutting out its neighbor for installation. This CB&Q is a very interesting and addicting paint scheme. I can see why you like it!! I would love to see your Tyco re-paints in this scheme. You could post them to my Facebook fan page - Classic Model Trains :-). All the best to you
@@classicmodeltrains I would be happy to send you one of the sheets we once they arrive here!
@@ecidaho replied to ya on the messenger of FB
Ron Just a question... why did you paint the handrails white? shouldn't they be red, black or yellow instead of white?
I was just going off the picture I had of it. It's used in the first video on this repair job. No other reason. I suppose a yellow would have really popped on it.
Since the units are devoid of handrails to begin with, you should apply all your decals before applying the handrails!
I did apply all the decals before the handrails.
cool lots of work but very nice
Thanks James
The clouds are rolling in looks like stormy weather, better put on your rubbers. As mom used to say. I`m refacing my Marx tin box cars and am looking for Studebaker parts and service decals to fit in with my pre=post war layout. Covering the 1930s,40s,50s, time period.
30's to 50's sounds like an awesome era to model! Good luck!!
To make your own windshield just get microscale kristal klear hard to explain how it works but when the microscale kristal klear dries it looks like a windshield
Is this a liquid? Like you tape off the back of the windshield and then pour this in from the front and it sets up?
@@classicmodeltrains Micro Kristal Klear can do so many things that can make a big difference in the appearance of your models. First, Micro Kristal Klear is a liquid that can be used to form very real looking small windows up to about 1/4 in size. It is also an adhesive for mounting clear plastic parts, windows, etc. on models.
@@franktino6676 thanks I was having issues explaining it
@@Xtream__Attitude You are welcome, Sir! I use it many times and I like it with great results.
Not bad considering where they came from
Are you not a fan of Microscale decals? I'm on the fence about them (if they have been laying around for awhile)
Not having windows in a locomotive or a caboose looks so phony to me. I just keep some very clear plastic packaging from anything you are about to throw out. I just cut out the plastic and put a little CA on the inside of the window and apply with tweezers. If you need a curve for the F7 windshield, just heat it a little with the blow dryer. (Oh was I not supposed to mention the hair dryer?}
Yes. Ive found some of that clear plastic packaging stuff wont glue up well with the CA glue. Guess there's a couple different recipes for it
solvent's I don't remember solvent's, Modern technology with old fashion quality
They sure help in making the decal look nice
I hate decal work. Excellent job...
MC.........Really? I thought you would have that down pat by now :-) Guess we know what we will be doing next thanksgiving weekend!!
Isn't it funny in both model and prototype form that 70-year-old locomotives get rebuilt and repainted and look like brand new and are putting out the t o n miles.
It's great that there are "old Timers" that donate their time to help resurrect old prototype loco's and cars. I watched a few vid's on restored F units. Very good info.
I thought that was Cybil Shepard!
Yup!
What causes zinc pest does anyone know?
The way they mixed the Zamak back in the day. If it was a poor batch it had too much or not enough of an ingredient so it made the casting weak. prone to humidity absorption and the chemicals reacted with it causing it to expand and fall away. At least that's my take on it.
@@classicmodeltrains that makes sense thank you love the videos 👍
Cybill Shepherd
Yup!
I miss the hat.
I need to pull out the Ol' overalls and hat. It's time!
@@classicmodeltrains or embroider SHELL on your brownshirt.