Thank you so much! I am so very grateful for your kind generosity! And it's always very encouraging to know the work I do is helping modelers. Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you friend!
@@JonBius You bet! A couple of questions. 1. How do I deal with the tiny (and I mean tiny) decals. Like the ones that say "step" or "Gun"? My fingers are way too big to slide them off without losing them in the process. Suggestions? 2. I have some larger decals peeling up a the edges. Used Micro Sol to remedy but still not laying down while following the contour of the tail rudder. Note: I cut the decal after it was in place and completely dried. I wonder if Walthers Solvaset would have worked better. Suggestions? I really appreciate your help here. (BTW: this is for a 1:48 Avenger TBM-3 by Academy.)
@@eagle5600 Glad to help! For #1, tweezers - some very small needle nosed type. That'll help a lot. Also, leave a little extra paper on to grip, and just make a light slice near the decal to cut through the film. This gives a "grab handle". #2 Definitely Solvaset. And slicing the decals helps. Micro Sol is weak like a baby fart. :) Solvaset is the heat! Have fun with it!
Jon, I initially praised your video last week after watching, saying I had learned some "important stuff". Well, that important stuff is when you showed us painting the decal in pure water after you apply it to get it in the right position. That is a true game changer! I had always kept applying more Micro Set, getting very frustrated trying to move it and in many cases destroying the decal in the process. Using pure water has ended all that. Just came back from a decaling session tonight, and using the water saved my decals several times. And the neat part is even if it looks like it has already settled and set, applying the water floats it back up so you can re-position it. Again, numerous thanks for a great video. Guys, if you follow Jon's instructions step by step, you can get great results!
Thanks so much for your kind words! And I'm so glad that technique was helpful. That's such an awesome encouragement! Thanks as always for watching and commenting!
Olga friend, I don't use a micro set, nor do I need to, nor does anyone else. That's a mistake, you have to give it a good layer of varnish, then use diluted white glue and it stays well fixed, then with the final varnish it's splendid, I've been using this technique for over 20 years.
Superb step-by-step! When I was a teenager (decades ago) I was always annoyed by the silvering of decals, without knowing what to do about it. After a colleague gave me her son's barely started Revell 1/72 Millenium Falcon in 2015, I launched back into scale models with a passion. I'd seen several videos of using setting solutions, and wish I'd come upon this one first. The biggest challenge was the Imperial emblem on the round helmet of the 1/72 Fine Molds TIE fighter pilot helmet. I learned more lessons from the doing than from the videos, and NOW those videos make sense. I'm curious why you selected the Walthers solvent over the Microscale Industries Micro Sol. Hotter? Cooler? Cheaper? Easier to apply? Keep putting those stickers on!
Thanks so much for watching, and for your comment! I have the Micro Sol/Set, but I find the Solvaset to be a bit stronger, and I like the results better. It tames decals that the other won't. So definitely because it's a bit hotter. Thanks again!
So first, thank you for making this video. It was super helpful. I bought a model kit the other day and after opening it up and looking at the instructions, the literal first steps were to apply some decals to the cockpit console and I quickly realized I haven't actually assembled a model with decals and had absolutely no clue about them, except for the fact that I have heard they can be tough to apply. After watching this video I feel confident enough to do it. Thank you!
A very helpful video Jon! I’m about to put many stickers on my BF109 E3. Many thanks for the long hours of work you’ve put into these presentations and the extremely helpful information! 👍
This was super informative! One additional question I have is after applying the waterslide I am able to see the clear edges, creating hard lines around the image. Do I need to cut closer to the ink of the decal or is this an application process issue?
Thanks for your kind words! I am glad it was helpful. It can actually be one, both, or an additional factor! 😊It does help to cut away as much of the clear carrier film as possible. However, if the knife is not very sharp, the cutting can actually raise the edges, so a new blade is always a help. Additionally, making an initial score that just goes through the carrier film only can keep those edges even. The application process can also impact those edges. If the surface is not smooth, or if there are air bubbles underneath, it can cause issues. Surface prep is also a key to good adherence and smooth decals. A third factor though can be the thickness of the decals. When I built aircraft, I rarely used Tamiya's kit decals because they were often quite thick. I opted instead for higher quality aftermarket decals. Decals thickness can be addressed to some degree by a post-decal application of another gloss coat, but for very thick decals that doesn't always work. As with anything, there will be some trial and error, and every decal set may be a bit different. Hopefully this info will help you assess the situations and then come up with a solution. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Very good explanation, thanks :O) Although I'm an advanced modeller I find it often usefull to do a 'refresh course' about techniques that (sometimes) have become routines, but because of the 'been there done that' attitude have also become a little sloppy. So i regularly (with pleasure) I take a look at Lesson #1. One may know much but sometimes, because of that, forget the basics. Keep up those usefull video's !
Glad it was helpful! And I feel the same way. Continual refreshing in the basics helps keep the foundation solid. Thanks so much for wathcing and commenting!
Great content ! Personally I know this for a long time but many modelists are feeling uncomfortable with transfers and don't always know about products like Microsol which really make our life more easy !
Thanks for the video. I'm doing a train car in memory of a friend that passed to surprise his dad with. I was nervous about trying to lay the decals. I did a test today on another train car I had and it turned out pretty decent. Going to do the first side of the actual car tomorrow and I'm a lot less nervous now. Thank you for the informational video
Thanks Jon...I built Models as a kid, and later as an adult (questionable...Ha Ha) but that was short lived because I was just to busy. Now that I'm retired I thought i would go back and finish some that I had started and start some new ones ....So again for all the tips, much needed
Thank you for making this video! I watched it before and while making my own project. This was the very first time I ever put decals on a model, and thought I’d mess up royally (hence why prior, I bought 3 of the same decal sheets just in case 😂), but I actually didn’t, except one time that was remedied thanks to the spares. I love how you made your explanations straightforward and very simple, and large thanks to that my model came out greatly!
One thing about locally handbrushing a glass coat : don't do this without a test ! I have melted fully cured Vallejo paint when coating it with Tamiya X-22 (it happened way before this video, don't blame yourself Jon :) )
Oh, wow! I'm sorry to hear about that! Yeah, those types of gloss coats can be airbrushed on, but brush painting can definitely introduce problems. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
"Put those stickers on" - GREAT Tutorial! A long time has passed since I used decals when I was a kid building toys, now I got involved in a project to put together a Space ship with two decks and a lot of decals representing the equipments in the control deck and in the living quarters deck. In a 1:48 scale and highly detailed graphics it can easily intimidate an inexperienced hobbyist. I've already got the tools necessary and now I'm learning how to apply them. Your video gave me the confidence and assurance that I can relax and slowly and patiently achieve this task, and best of all, that I will have FUN in the process. With Gratitude and Appreciation for the work you do. THANK YOU🙏
Thanks so much for your kind words! I am so glad you found the video helpful. You are absolutely right - the key is take your time and have fun. It sounds like a great project you're working on - enjoy the journey! Thanks so very much for watching and commenting! Happy day to you friend. 😊
You're so kind and detailed in explaining. Great video. I ordered today McLaren-Mercedes formula MP4/13 in 1/18 scale and also decals from another seller. When it all arrive I'll have to remove factory decals and put new ''West'' decals, but I don't have those liquids for removing and applying decals. I hope I'll make it.
Thanks so much for your kind words! And I'm so glad the video was helpful. I hope that works out well for you - I've never tried that process before! Happy day to you friend!
Hi Jon, thanks for all the info and advice. One question for you. For older decals, have you had luck with decal "fix"? Are there any other methods for restoring older decal sheets? I've tried the decal fix in the past but it really didn't help, resulting in the decal falling apart. Thanks in advance. -John
On really old decals, it can be quite difficult to get them to work if they're really dried out. I've had some success with spraying Testors Decal spray, which is meant to be used with their decal paper. However, I've not used that in years, so I don't know if it is even around anymore. Another thing I have done is to overbrush them with Pledge (Future). One coat, let it dry, and then another. Instead of soaking the decal in water, I set it on a damp paper towel and let the water absorb through the paper. (It takes a while.) That seems to work well. But if they're really too far gone, it may be a lost cause. I hope that helps! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on Jon. Another great video! I like to ask, what is best, apply the weathering on first before decaling or the other way around? Appreciate your advice. A friend, Mike
Thanks so much Mike! I am grateful for your kind words! My preference is to put decals on before weathering, so that they get dirtied up to the same degree as the rest of the model. I do apply a clear varnish over them to seal them in and protect them against the weathering process. I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
If the surface has a flat or satin finish, I will just place a drop of Future (or whatever its called now) where Im applying the decal and just place the wet decal into it. Ive never had a decal silver that way and it will on permanently even if the decals are old and the glue doesn't hold anymore.
Yep - that is a great technique! I do that a lot on Warhammer models. In my aircraft days, I often heard it referred to as the "Future Puddle method". :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius It works especially well on car models because the markings look painted on. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with other acrylic paints because they grab the decal too fast. The slipperiness of the future lets you slide it around until you're happy.
Thanks for the advise buddy. Still crapping myself 🤣🤣🤣 I’m building 2006 Shelby, about to put down the gold stripes. Wish me luck. Cheers mate Paul in the uk. 🇬🇧🍾🍾🍾 all the very best in 2024. 🤘🏻👍👍👍👍🍺
Put those stickers on.. I've been building tamiya 1/14 semi trucks for years and now delving back into my childhood hobby of building 1/24 cars so this was a great tutorial and refresher for me as I haven't used waterslides for at least 30 years 👍
I don't know of a method that would not damage paint with 100% certainty. I generally use small bits of clear tape to pull them up. However, if you've put any sealants over the decals, that may not work. In the rare case when I've had to do it, I was prepared to repaint the area. Good luck with it! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Several things to try: - Instead of dipping the decals in water, place them on a paper moist towel, and let the water soak up through the paper. On some decals, that is less stressful and allows them to be worked with easier - I've used Testor's Decal Spray to help reseal them. In a pinch, an acrylic gloss varnish can help hold them together to. - Sometimes if decals are low quality, or are too old and/or dry, there's not a lot that can be done to recover them. A few times over the years I ran into that and simply had to find alternates. Good luck with those decals!
G'day Jon, now let's get those stickers on! Thank you, again, for another truly helpful video. I have to admit, sometimes, I suffer from 'decalphobia'. The main company that makes RAAF decals down here in Australia make super thin decals that can rip apart even if you look at them sideways ;) Very fragile. But, mostly, they are the only game in town if I want to model a real aircraft that served in the RAAF. So, I've been very nervous about placing these decals on. They are not cheap either and if I mess them up, I've got to start again and buy some more. So, your tips and most importantly, seeing you put on a typical decal, using your method has really helped me. I have micro sol and micro set so, I've decided to go through my old kits and find plastic components that weren't needed in the build and use them as nothing but practice pieces for decal application. Thanks again, Jon. Cheers, Bill H.
Thanks Bill! Using spare practice for plastic is definitely helpful. Work slowly with those fragile decals, and you should be OK. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Frustrating…am getting so tired of all TYPES of videos where one person says “Do this…” and another says “No, do THIS…”. Same with yours… many say to use SOL to pre-treat and set and you say to use SET. Some say use scissors to cut decal, others say knife. I realize that there are numerous ways to do the same thing, but it gets so frustrating because everybody thinks they are an expert.
I understand - it can be frustrating. I went through a lot of options myself early on. I tried various solutions, cutting methods, etc. What I demonstrated in this video is the method I arrived at over 16 years and 375+ models. Even with that, I would not claim it is right - it's just a way, and a way that has worked for me. And make no mistake about it - I would never claim to be an expert. I am experienced, but that is it. I can only show what I know to be true in my own work. If it is helpful, then I am glad. If it's not, then I'd recommend doing what I did for several years - keep testing, keep trying, keep experimenting. Eventually you will find a method that works for you. Just don't give up on it. Thanks for watching and commenting, and I hope you can find a method that suits your work flow.
Put those stickers on! I hate decals...and the really long pin stripe ones nightmares! Lol I once built a really nice 1:350 scale USS Defiant from Star Trek DS9, with led lighting THE WORKS took nearly 2 years to complete, but it had one of those long red pin stripes that went into a circle atop and around the bridge of the model, yeah notice I said had, lol so I changed plans and gears went full combat damage to cover the mistake or missing decals and it looked awesome...but now I'm currently doing a HO scale 1:87 Scale of the Union Pacific Big Boy locomotive with some lights, it's for my Father In-law who loves trains, I have never built a train before I mainly do Sci-fi builds although I like to try different stuff I see a future tank build. It never ends does it which is fun. Back to my point lol so there are some decals for the Big Boy and I'm gunning to do my best as I can't do battle damage on this one lol. I plan to light the head lamp the fire box with a fire effect led which has a control switch and the white marker light in the back of the tender car. As well as some famous cotton steam and cotton smoke lol Started on it at the beginning of May 2021 and project to be completed by September. I'd like to enjoy it a bit before handing it over to my Father In-law for Christmas. On a funny note, my wife, when I told her it's his fav train I think I'll get a model and make him one. She says no if you buy the model you give it to him to put together, I laughed and said no dear you see I'm a modeler been doing it for years and yes I still hate decals, it's like a huge gift to have a fine example built by one of my people and given as a gift, like a wood worker who crafts a cutting board he or she don't buy the wood and then gift the person with the raw materials and say Merry Christmas it's a cutting board you have to build it....lol. Enjoy! Sorry this is a long comment but it is a funny one. Thanks for reading.
Building modal trains is very cool! Loads of weathering possibilities there that are very unique. Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you!
Great video Jon! Have you noticed any connection between the temperature of the water (or other factors) and the occurrence of silvering? As a side note, I've been using Mr. Mark Setter and Softer. MicroSol and Set are pretty safe but not very powerful. If you're not careful with Mark Softer, it'll melt your decals and not in a good way. I'll keep putting my stickers on!
Thanks so much! 😊 I think there is a correlation between temperature and silvering, but it's still very dependent on surface prep, and how quickly you get the decal from the water to the model. I think it is helpful in avoiding silvering, but not a huge factor. And if the other aspects aren't factored in, I don't know that it helps at all. In my own work, I think carefully and deliberately working out the bubbles after placement is the biggest single factor. Yeah, the Mr. Mark twins are quite hot. That's why I like Solvaset. It's in the middle in my experience. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put thise stickers on! Just found your channel a few days ago. Very informative and well put together. I'd be interested to see some comparisons of the various decal solutions out there. I see VMS make decal fixer and softener which I haven't tried yet. I live in the UK and haven't been able to get hold of the solvaset you used in this video. I use MicroSol but the results are hit and miss.
Thanks for your kind words, and for watching and commenting! I've gotten to where I rarely to many product comparisons. I've tried so many over they ears, I'm at the point where I'm happy with what I use, and they act exactly like I want, so the pursuit of "perfect" is less enticing. I did try the VMS stuff and find it better than MicroSet/Sol, though not as hot a Solvaset. So I use VMS for the pre-treatment if needed, and then either VMS or Solvaset, depending on how thick the decals are. The thicker ones get Solvaset. Thanks again - happy day to you!
Put those stickers on. Good advice Jon, sorry but I find your “to face” shots distracting as your eyes constantly dart around. I think the most important advice for decals and probably every aspect of models is Patience. Be patient, take your time. Take all the time you need and go slow. I have hemiplegia (half body paralysis) so I don’t have the luxury any more of two hands to help me steady my models. I understand the excitement of nearing the end of a process with a model, be it painting, getting all the parts of a model section glued or getting the decals applied just to finish the stage I’m at and be able to sit back and admire the work. It really is a luxury most people won’t understand until something happens to remove it from their life , like I experienced. The modelling world is full of over opinionated people demanding you do things a particular way or avoid things etc. None of that matters. YOU are the modeller, enjoy the fun of building, painting and decorating what you can in whatever way you want. It’s YOUR fun, so take note of other peoples advice and if different from what you normally do, just give it a try. Maybe you find benefit in it to become a new skill you use, or maybe it becomes a specific skill for say a small aspect. Whatever you are doing on your model though, patience will usually pay off for you. For someone with only one hand decals are a royal pain, I’ve learnt to never ever ever (ever) go near a wet decal with my finger. I swear they reach out like an octopus tentacle and grab you to curl up . Also don’t get hung up over using extra products. I have models I built outside sitting on the ground (over 30yrs ago back before I couldn’t) and using tap water in a saucer to soak and apply decals to brush painted as well as unpainted models. The surviving models still have those decals intact, no flaking from years of moves, never sealed in any way. Even some I broke during application are fine. I attribute the success mostly to patience. Breaking large/thin decals is going to happen but with care and patience at the time I worked slow to position the breaks so they match together. So fight the urge to just throw the decals away the moment you split one, get up and walk outside or go get a drink, let yourself calm then come back to your wet decals and calmly and slowly work out what the problem is and the first step to fix it. Its all learning and yes, at the time you think your model is ruined. Its not, it may not be award winning but very few people ever are in a position to compete anyway so it doesn’t matter. Do what you can and if you cant continue then carefully pack away your model for now, later on you may be able to buy another decal sheet (some manufacturers can supply you one if you write to them and politely ask).
Put those stickers on. I watched to the end. I was looking on how to put decals on a 1/18 diecast car with opening doors. What do I do, cut decal on the Crack and apply the solvent? I want to do it right, I'm decaling up a 64 Ford Lightning drag car that is white and what do I do after I'm happy with the decals? Spray with a clear?
In situations like that, I usually put the decal on in one piece, straddling the gap. Apply the decal solution and let dry. Then carefully cut the decal using a new knife blade. Cut carefully and slowly. Once its cut, apply some more setting solution, and once that's dry, seal it with clear varnish and proceed with any additional steps. I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching and commenting! I am grateful!
Thank you! My number one way of dealing with old decals was to see if I could buy new replacements. (Seriously.) Too often old decals can't be recovered. If that is not an option, I first overcoated them with Pledge/Future (or other clear acrylic gloss). Then, instead of dunking them in water, I cut the decal out, and set it on a wet paper towel, gently adding a brushful of water around the edges. Once it seems to move freely, gently pick it up with tweezers, being careful not to touch the decal itself. Using the moist brush, gently nudge it onto the model as close to being placed and aligned correctly as possible. This minimizes the need for further adjustment. Use a cotton bud to soak up excess water - again without touching it. Once it has had a few minutes to dry, apply decal setting solution around the edges, not touching the decal. Then leave it alone, preferably overnight. Once it is dry then, it should be able to take a second coat of setting solution if needed. If there is any silvering, I generally used paint to cover it up. The key is to take it very slowly, and touch the decal as little as possible. If it shatters once wet - it's generally too far gone for use. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on! Thanks for the info. Is there a top coat that's especially good at protecting decals from handling? I'm looking to apply decals to a transformers toy so I need them to be protected from skin oils, general manhandling.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! I'd suggest trying a lacquer spray varnish. However, they can be quite "hot", so you'd want to test a spot or two, and put it on in light coats. That's probably your most durable option. With that said, continued handling will eventually wear on paint and decals in my experience. I hope that helps!
the british or europeans pronounce it deck-al. of course they pronounce everything funny because they speak the queens english. no offence intended guys. and yes keep putting those stickers on guy.
I'm so glad you enjoy them, and thanks for the kind words. You can get the cup and other stuff here: jonbius.creator-spring.com/ Thanks for asking about that, and thanks for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend! :)
I always have to wonder many people use sharp hobby knifes to slide the decals into place. You can easily damage the decal. I use wooden toothpicks instead a hobby knife.
I've not had that happen actually. Any residue I've observed is left from the decal film. However, in general, a quick wipe with a barely damp cotton bud (damp with water) may do it. Certainly later clear coats, weathering, etc., should also cover it. Also, make sure you're not overdoing it with the Solvaset. HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting. 😊
I'm sorry to hear that. Sometimes that will happen on old or over-exposed decals. If you ever run into that again, here are some tips that may help: - Look for Testors Decal Bonder. It's a spray applied to homemade decals. Sometimes on old decals this will keep the parts together, and allow the decals to be used. When I've used this, I sprayed on a coat or two, and then applied the decals as normal. (With the caveat of...) - Don't dip them in water. Once they are cut out, place them on a moist paper towel. Apply drops of water with a small dropper - NOT a brush so there's less stress on the decals. Let them soak for a few minutes like that. - As an alternative to the Decal Bonder mentioned above, I've used clear gloss overcoats. Most of the time I used Pledge/Future airbrushed on, but I have tested clear lacquer coats. (Be CAREFUL with that though!) Even with precautions, sometimes they are too far gone. I highly recommend scanning them before use, so that if you can print them out (or find someone who can) you may be able to still make use of them. And sometimes if the specific decal(s) would work, it can be used as a template for a mask. I hope this information is helpful!
You'd want to make sure that you used some form of setting solution, and then add a clear coat over it before handling. Thanks for watching and commenting!
;When using Solvaset. The decal will wrinkle some while it is drying. Don't touch it or do anything. The wrinkles will disappear when dry. Some beginners think they have to take the wrinkles out. This is the normal process with Solvaset. It is a very aggressive decal solution. Don't worry they will settle down. I usually use Solvaset with very stubborn decals.
Just spilled my micro sol on my decals! Help! How can I replace them? I'm 3yrs into the USS Saratoga CV-60. Taking my sweet time. Every detail. Served on her in the 70's early 80's. It's an Italeri No. 5520 kit. 1:720 scale. Someone help me please. It just sucks.
Oh, that stinks. You can try testing the decals after they dry - find one that's not too critical and see if it still works. I doubt it will, but you never know. If not, either check for aftermarket decals, or scan the decal sheet and try getting them printed. I hope you can find a solution!
@@JonBius thanks brother, luckily I applied the messed up ones before they were ruined. But not all. They were flight deck decals so I can hide some of them with planes and helicopters. I promise you my heart sank over this mishap. I know it's just a plastic model, but dadgum it sucked for a while. I really appreciate your tutorials, I've watched more than a normal person would, lol. Thanks for the response brother. Takes away the loneliness.
Hello, thank you very much for you knowledge sharing. I've build just my second model and already mastered a bit brushing, air brushing, paint thinning, varnishing but still decals applying for me is madness. I'm trying to find the handy way for me how to set it. For now I'm using a brush to slid the decal from it's paper base and putting decal with the brush. You're doing it with the finger - ok, maybe I'll try that too :) But moving the decal with hobby knife ... wow... you should feel very confident with that. I'm too newbie to do that, I'm pretty sure that I'll damage it. What do you think about tamiya 74052 tweezers for decals? I wonder if it will make applying decals easier. Thank you very much once again for sharing the experience, it helps a lot!
Thank you so much for your kind words! As with all things modeling, finding out the best way for decal application that fits your preferences and needs will ultimately come from experience and repetition. For example, the secret of using the knife blade is never use a new blade. :) (I tend to always use older blades for everything apart from cutting canopy masking.) And if I may suggest a thought... in my own work, I've always tried to avoid thinking I've mastered a technique or process, but rather I've simply further refined it. I think you'll discover that over time and repetition of building you'll always learn new things. There may be fewer dramatic jumps in skills or understanding, but I've found that while it can be relative quick (with diligence) to reach a "95%" mark. But it is in that last 5% that I believe one discovers that it is the steepest climb - and that 100% is unattainable ultimately. There's always more to learn. Forgive me for lecturing - not my intent at all! But I thought I'd pass along my own experience in hopes it might be helpful. With regards to the tweezers, I don't really know as I've never used those. In fact, the tweezers i use are fairly generic, cheap, and most notable for their lack of notability. :) What I have done with them is a bit of filing and bending here and there to get them to do the things I want. Good tools are almost always helpful, but the real key is the hand that holds them. Keep pursuing it, keep building and learning and trying things. Deliberate pursuit of experience, and thoughtful evaluation of them, will be the key to growth. And ultimately it will make the hobby ever so much more fun and satisfying. Happy day to you!
@@JonBius Thank you! Agree there is no limit for becoming better and better in any skill. I'm just starting to master each and every of it and hope I'll be slowly moving further. It's also a part of pleasure to master smth and step-by-step moving to the finish of building the model. So, for me it's two-in-one process. Thank you once again and have a great day!
For one, I try to avoid fragile decals when I can. Also, my knife blade is old, so it grips but doesn't cut. I also make sure that the surface underneath is very slick. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I've got the scale Motorsports carbon fiber decal set for the revell Corvette c5r. There's sections that have massive compound curves and molded in detail that I have to work the decals around. SMS didn't leave reference points to cut these surfaces. What's your recommendation to trim for these curves and surfaces? Let the decal dry then trim to shape and use decal solution? Or use solution first then try to remove the excess decal?
When it comes to compound curves, I would often cut the decal apart, taking into account the shape of the curve, so that each section of the decal would have less of a curve to deal with. Usually I could then line up the next piece, and the next, and so on. It did require that each decal section be fully dry before placing the next. Getting over the molded in detail is another issue. For that, I normally would get the decal in place, focusing on the edges and alignment, but ignored the giant bubble over the detail. Once the rest of the decal dried, I could then make tiny slices around the raised detail, and hit it with setting solution. In both cases, I had to be prepared to do paint touch ups to cover the gaps. There have been more than a few schemes I avoided over the years knowing that the decals were simply not up to the task. In fact, I would often find that spending the time (when possible) to mask things off and then airbrush them worked better. (Like invasion stripes on an aircraft.) And finally, sometimes I just slapped it on, hosed it down with setting solution, and then just fixed all the warts. HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
That may be from letting it sit too long in the water, and the backing paper starts to come apart. Also, it can be that the decals are very old, and have dried up completely. This can also happen if the decal paper got wet or moist, and then dried out. It would activate the decals, and essentially they'd adhere to the decal sheet. I hope that helps you troubleshoot the problem. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I honestly and accidentally bought a USS Enterprise model kit that didn't come with paint or anything except the decals and the parts to assemble it. Didn't know what the heck a waterslide decal was until this video and watching it made the process loads easier, even if I never did this type of thing to begin with. Thanks for making such a good video! A bit of a question though: So since I never did this and honestly never will in the future, will this decal "stay still" or is that was the Solvaset/Gloss Coat is for?
I'm so glad the video was helpful for you! That is always a great encouragement to me. Thanks for your kind words. Yes - the Solvaset helps with making sure the decals adhere to the model over time. Generally I also apply a clear varnish afterwards, but if it's not going to handled much, it should be OK. Depending on the age and quality of the decal, you may see them start to lift up. Adding some decal solution can help settle them back down. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
If they need a bit of cleaning, I just wipe them down lightly with a clean paint brush and water. Just the barest bit of damp... that'll clean up residue. But most often - I don't do anything, as later weathering steps will blend things anyway.
Got me... the only source I had used stopped doing them. Ask around on some model forums though - you'll get some answers! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Jon, if you have to put a decal over another decal (i.e. white background first, then a second decal with black and the other colors), how long do you wait before applying the second decal?
I've pushed the envelope and done that almost immediately afterwards (but *before* putting on any solutions), but ideally I'd say give it at least a few hours to allow for drying, settling, and any bubble corrections. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks so much! I use Solvaset rather than MicroSol simply because Solvaset is stronger, and in my experience does a MUCH better job of softening up the decal. I'd tried MicroSol at first, but found some decals just didn't cooperate. Switching to Solvaset, I found it made any decal conform to the surface. Pretty much if Solvaset won't work, nothing else will. MicroSol is good, I just think Solvaset is a fair bit better. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius thanks for the feedback - I think I understand what your’e sayinf. I recenetly did an experiment with some decals, and it didn’t work that well in all occasions.
I'm having problems with decal silvering on guitar headstocks. It's the same procedure as models. The headstock fronts are painted black and finished to high gloss black mirror like finish. I know this is needed to get the decals on smoothly. The issue is that the particular decal I am using is very thin, probably similar to model decals. Since the surface is black, any air trapping shows. The decal is obviously then coated over with clear finish and it needs to be lightly sealed first to stop the final coat melting the decal but I have that solved. Any tips to maximise sliding the decal on without any silvering effect? Do I need to resort to using that Microscale setting stuff?
I've not worked with guitar headstocks before, so I can't speak from experience directly. But here are some things that might be of help- First, if the clear finish is not harsh (lacquers, etc.) you might try putting a dot of it underneath where the decal will be placed. This "pre-wets" the surface, much like decal prep for the models. If the clear finish you use is harsh, then perhaps a dot of clear gloss acrylic might work. That will make sure that there is liquid beneath the decal to help the adhesion. You may need to lightly brush this on to get enough coverage if the decal is larger. Second, when you place the decal on, try to go from one end to the other. Don't just slide it onto the surface, but rather lay it down from left to right, or top to bottom - whatever fits the decals dimensions. Third, when you get it in place, use a cotton bud to lightly work out any of the air bubbles that may appear. Work from the center out, carefully pushing them out, almost like a squeegee on a windshield. Do this slowly, carefully, and thoroughly. Finally, if you do see any bubbles, use a sharp needle to make a small hole in the bubble, and try to flow in some of the gloss finish from step one. Of course, I'd highly recommend trying this on a non-production piece first. While I know this method works for models, I have no idea how well it translates into wood and high gloss finishes. You may need to adjust for the realities of that. I hope some of this information is helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting. :D
@@JonBius Thanks for your reply. I have to try to find something to apply on the surface before sliding the decal on. This is tricky though because if I don't get that right the decal will be damaged. Guitar decals are expensive, especially if you are using logos for big manufacturers because they don't like people selling those in case they are faking guitars rather than repairing. I'm going to try vinegar because apparently these decal setting liquids are mostly vinegar based. The surface I am going onto is Rustins Plasticoat. I'm not sure if you can get that in America. It's British but an absolutely fantastic wood finish better than anything else I ever used. The downside is that it melts decals unless they are fixed with something first. Plasticoat is twin pack with a hardener so dries rock hard. I seal the decal with Rust-oleum Crystal Clear sealing spray which is the best gloss lacquer I found for this. I think this is acrylic based. It does the same as these decal solutions if you give it another light coat after placing the decal and leaving to dry but you have to be careful to avoid too much softening.
@@ryanstark2350 I figured it was quite complicated. Some testing will help you see what works. I do hope you can find a solution! I am on old ex-player... arthritis took my playing away. But I do love guitars! Happy day to you!
Awesome video thanks. I have made a rookie mistake and have already attached mine to my tank without any prep. I've noticed that some haven't stuck down. Is there anything I can spray on to keep them in place please?
Normally if I see adheres that are not adhering under the decal, I make very fine slices in the area where the bubble is, and then add some Solvaset or other strong setting solution. That gets under the decal and helps pull it down. Depending on the severity of the situation, it may need to be done a few times, waiting for the different repairs to dry before proceeding. I hope that helps!
Excellent video Jon! Found it super helpful and informative, thank you very much :) I have a question about whether I need to apply a top coat over my water slide decals or not??? I purchased a few blank promotional diecast model trucks and applied water slide decals to them straight out of the box and that's all that I will be doing to them - nothing more. My question is do I need to apply a top coat over the decals even though I won't be doing anything else to the model trucks? Without a clear coat will the decals last as long as the models aren't handled. The model trucks are going right up on the shelf.
Thanks so much! I'm not sure when it comes to die cast. My concern would be the effect on the metallic finish - it might change the sheen. But it would seal them in nicely. I'd recommend doing a spot application to a smaller decal and see what you think. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for your input - its much appreciated :) I was asking more about if decals need to have a top coat over them. Is it mandatory? Can your decals remain intact for years to come without a top coat over them?
@@StevenFreezy A lot of factors go into that. Humidity, light, handling, conditions in the air... All can impact the decals and paint. It comes down to your estimation of the conditions. Is it required? Not at all. Is it prudent? That's the question. Thanks!
Need your advice again, can you Unset a decal when set after 2 days? I used Mr Mark Setter & Mr Mark Softer. I Don't want to Remove but Adjust decal. Thanks Again
After that much time you'd likely risk damaging/ruining the decal, and possibly the paint work underneath. In some cases where I've been in that position, I'd paint in "corrections" by hand. Admittedly though that only works in some situations. Hope that helps! Thanks~
@@JonBius it's crooked, not lined up straight. Just want to know, could I Just turn it a little. Thanks Jon. It's a 1/48 Maltese cross on Albatros d.111
@@slougo5909 Gotcha. I really doubt it would work. I mean - you could try, of course. But unless it's just not set, it might create problems. Good luck however you deal with it!
What if you are to apply a waterslide decal over a chrome part? Would that be considered a "gloss coat" type finish? Any additional steps to secure the adhesion besides micro sol/set? 🤔
I rarely build models with chrome parts. The few times I have, I tend to strip the chrome off and just paint the parts. So I've not had any experience placing decals over chrome. It is usually a very smooth surface, so it would likely be OK in that regard for decals. However, I'm not sure if the decal film would stand in stark contrast to the chrome background. I'd recommend experimenting on a spare part if one is available to see how it will look. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for the response Jon. I did try it last night. I used the micro set setting solution, waited a few minutes, and then applied the micro sol solution. It seems to have stuck pretty good, however, the chrome part behind the clear part of the decal was not as shiny, but it will pass. That being said, I was more curious about the adhesion properties, and that seemed to work out fine...time will tell. I did the same model in a different paint color, and actually painted the "decal" on the chrome with acrylic paint, and it was much more realistic. Thanks again, for the quick response!
Put those stickers on! I'm building a WW1 Albatros D. V which involves using a lot of decals on a white gloss under coat. I like to use Tamiya paint, but I have a problem with their white gloss. I can't get it to turn glossy without building up a heavy coat. I don't like to use Pledge as it too is a heavy coat. I was thinking of spaying a Tamiya flat white and then air brushing a gloss clear coat. What do you recommend for the clear coat? Do you know anything about a Windsor Newton product. Great video.Thanks
Thanks for your kind word, and thanks for watching and commenting! I don't know anything about the W&N product, so I'd not be able to help there. With white, I usually go for a more satin finish by cutting a bit of the gloss white with the flat white. Some test sprays will show if perhaps some Tamiya clear gloss can be added to the mix. If you do go with a flat white cost, gently buff it with a soft cotton cloth, and then apply a gloss coat over that. Tamiya flat white is quite textured at a microscopic level, so trying to gloss over it can be challenging. I hope that helps. Thanks again!
It depends on several factors, primarily how the decal was printed. A high quality decal (such as Cartograph) is usually on the glossy side - the highest quality stuff being quite glossy. This has to do with how the decal is manufactured. In my experience, decals that are very matte in their finish tend to be lower quality. (Please note the inclusion of "usually" and "tend".) So the finish of the decal once in place and after all solutions have dried has more to do with the decal than the process. If a decal is glossy on the sheet, it's likely to be glossy on the model. Of course, application of a matte coat (or satin) will dull that down, as will weathering layers, post-fading/shading, etc. HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you're applying decals and panel lining, I'd recommend this order: paint, clear gloss coat, decals, spot gloss coat on decals, then panel line. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I just wasn’t sure because I herd some people say that panel liner after decals could lift or mess up the decals if it gets behind it. But I’m assuming that’s why you said to sot gloss after I apply them?
Hi Jon. Just came across your channel and was instantly caught by your calm, collected and humorous way of presenting. Unlike so many others on YT who seem to be in a haste, overconfident, arrogant or overly instructive you have just the right balance. Even though I'm modeling for ages now, I'm aware there is so much more to learn. You make learning fun. I would suggest a part 2 with some decaling examples on the "real things" where you show all the mentioned techniques in depth. Keep going and being you!
Thanks so much for your kind words! I have other videos showing application of decals. Check the chapter links in each video. Some of the info there may be helpful also. Here's some: An overall decal video focused on Gunpla: th-cam.com/video/7AONuVnylEg/w-d-xo.html A video focused on chipping decals: th-cam.com/video/Thg8Cy5A2BE/w-d-xo.html Several others that demonstrate decals in the video, and have specific details: th-cam.com/video/_0ZwjmVX314/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/9tRkQQSL5BU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/aGkBMvzDS8Q/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Ux1i5qGJoDM/w-d-xo.html It's probably not a bad idea to do another dedicated decal video though - suggestion duly noted! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Another great video. Thanks for the explanation. One question. I can’t find microset near me or not so expensive with my local hobby shop. (Something between $50 bucks) 😖😖😖What other product can i use ?
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked it. And thanks for watching and commenting. 😊 Vallejo has a product called Decal Fix, and Gunze has Mr. Mark Setter. I'm sure there are others, so check around. Test them out before use to check if they have negative interaction with the paint. An old school method is to mix some clear vinegar with water in a one-to-one mix. I've done that and it works nicely! Hope that helps!
I like what you are doing. For me, I use distilled water for my decals. It helps keep the silvering away. But, I will try the warm water trick. For me, I have a lot of Rail equipment to do! 😉
![HOW TO APPLY DECALS FOR GUNPLA [EASY] | TUTORIAL TUESDAY](/img/n.gif)
Hey, you are really helping me! More questions coming your way!!
Thank you so much! I am so very grateful for your kind generosity! And it's always very encouraging to know the work I do is helping modelers. Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you friend!
@@JonBius You bet! A couple of questions. 1. How do I deal with the tiny (and I mean tiny) decals. Like the ones that say "step" or "Gun"? My fingers are way too big to slide them off without losing them in the process. Suggestions? 2. I have some larger decals peeling up a the edges. Used Micro Sol to remedy but still not laying down while following the contour of the tail rudder. Note: I cut the decal after it was in place and completely dried. I wonder if Walthers Solvaset would have worked better. Suggestions? I really appreciate your help here. (BTW: this is for a 1:48 Avenger TBM-3 by Academy.)
@@eagle5600 Glad to help! For #1, tweezers - some very small needle nosed type. That'll help a lot. Also, leave a little extra paper on to grip, and just make a light slice near the decal to cut through the film. This gives a "grab handle". #2 Definitely Solvaset. And slicing the decals helps. Micro Sol is weak like a baby fart. :) Solvaset is the heat!
Have fun with it!
Jon, I initially praised your video last week after watching, saying I had learned some "important stuff". Well, that important stuff is when you showed us painting the decal in pure water after you apply it to get it in the right position. That is a true game changer! I had always kept applying more Micro Set, getting very frustrated trying to move it and in many cases destroying the decal in the process. Using pure water has ended all that. Just came back from a decaling session tonight, and using the water saved my decals several times. And the neat part is even if it looks like it has already settled and set, applying the water floats it back up so you can re-position it. Again, numerous thanks for a great video. Guys, if you follow Jon's instructions step by step, you can get great results!
Thanks so much for your kind words! And I'm so glad that technique was helpful. That's such an awesome encouragement!
Thanks as always for watching and commenting!
Olga friend, I don't use a micro set, nor do I need to, nor does anyone else. That's a mistake, you have to give it a good layer of varnish, then use diluted white glue and it stays well fixed, then with the final varnish it's splendid, I've been using this technique for over 20 years.
I can't bring myself to call 'em "stickers".
Haha! I can relate! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Superb step-by-step! When I was a teenager (decades ago) I was always annoyed by the silvering of decals, without knowing what to do about it. After a colleague gave me her son's barely started Revell 1/72 Millenium Falcon in 2015, I launched back into scale models with a passion. I'd seen several videos of using setting solutions, and wish I'd come upon this one first. The biggest challenge was the Imperial emblem on the round helmet of the 1/72 Fine Molds TIE fighter pilot helmet. I learned more lessons from the doing than from the videos, and NOW those videos make sense. I'm curious why you selected the Walthers solvent over the Microscale Industries Micro Sol. Hotter? Cooler? Cheaper? Easier to apply? Keep putting those stickers on!
Thanks so much for watching, and for your comment!
I have the Micro Sol/Set, but I find the Solvaset to be a bit stronger, and I like the results better. It tames decals that the other won't. So definitely because it's a bit hotter.
Thanks again!
So first, thank you for making this video. It was super helpful. I bought a model kit the other day and after opening it up and looking at the instructions, the literal first steps were to apply some decals to the cockpit console and I quickly realized I haven't actually assembled a model with decals and had absolutely no clue about them, except for the fact that I have heard they can be tough to apply. After watching this video I feel confident enough to do it. Thank you!
I'm so glad you found it helpful! That really means a lot to me. And thanks for watching and commenting!
A very helpful video Jon! I’m about to put many stickers on my BF109 E3.
Many thanks for the long hours of work you’ve put into these presentations and the extremely helpful information! 👍
I'm glad you found that helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Have fun with your Emil!
“Put those stickers on!” I’m really new to modeling and have found that your step by step is exactly the starting instruction I needed…thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
This was super informative! One additional question I have is after applying the waterslide I am able to see the clear edges, creating hard lines around the image. Do I need to cut closer to the ink of the decal or is this an application process issue?
Thanks for your kind words! I am glad it was helpful.
It can actually be one, both, or an additional factor! 😊It does help to cut away as much of the clear carrier film as possible. However, if the knife is not very sharp, the cutting can actually raise the edges, so a new blade is always a help. Additionally, making an initial score that just goes through the carrier film only can keep those edges even.
The application process can also impact those edges. If the surface is not smooth, or if there are air bubbles underneath, it can cause issues. Surface prep is also a key to good adherence and smooth decals.
A third factor though can be the thickness of the decals. When I built aircraft, I rarely used Tamiya's kit decals because they were often quite thick. I opted instead for higher quality aftermarket decals. Decals thickness can be addressed to some degree by a post-decal application of another gloss coat, but for very thick decals that doesn't always work.
As with anything, there will be some trial and error, and every decal set may be a bit different. Hopefully this info will help you assess the situations and then come up with a solution.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
good explanations but actual visual demos would b better.🙂
th-cam.com/video/lXg3S-nryTY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks-
Very good explanation, thanks :O)
Although I'm an advanced modeller I find it often usefull to do a 'refresh course' about techniques that (sometimes) have become routines,
but because of the 'been there done that' attitude have also become a little sloppy. So i regularly (with pleasure) I take a look at Lesson #1.
One may know much but sometimes, because of that, forget the basics.
Keep up those usefull video's !
Glad it was helpful! And I feel the same way. Continual refreshing in the basics helps keep the foundation solid.
Thanks so much for wathcing and commenting!
Great content ! Personally I know this for a long time but many modelists are feeling uncomfortable with transfers and don't always know about products like Microsol which really make our life more easy !
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the video. I'm doing a train car in memory of a friend that passed to surprise his dad with. I was nervous about trying to lay the decals. I did a test today on another train car I had and it turned out pretty decent. Going to do the first side of the actual car tomorrow and I'm a lot less nervous now. Thank you for the informational video
That sounds like a great project - I know your friend will appreciate it. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Thanks Jon...I built Models as a kid, and later as an adult (questionable...Ha Ha) but that was short lived because I was just to busy. Now that I'm retired I thought i would go back and finish some that I had started and start some new ones ....So again for all the tips, much needed
I'm glad you found the videos helpful! Welcome back to the hobby - I hope you enjoy it. :D
Happy day to you!
Thank you for making this video! I watched it before and while making my own project. This was the very first time I ever put decals on a model, and thought I’d mess up royally (hence why prior, I bought 3 of the same decal sheets just in case 😂), but I actually didn’t, except one time that was remedied thanks to the spares.
I love how you made your explanations straightforward and very simple, and large thanks to that my model came out greatly!
I am so glad you found it helpful, and thanks so much for your kind words. Have fun with your model! Thanks for watching and commenting. 😊
One thing about locally handbrushing a glass coat : don't do this without a test ! I have melted fully cured Vallejo paint when coating it with Tamiya X-22 (it happened way before this video, don't blame yourself Jon :) )
Oh, wow! I'm sorry to hear about that! Yeah, those types of gloss coats can be airbrushed on, but brush painting can definitely introduce problems.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius At least I learnt my lesson : when you wanna brush something over aything water-based, check it doesn't contain alcohol :shrug:
Very informative. Thank you for this video.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on
😁👌
Thanks for watching and commenting! :D
"Put those stickers on" - GREAT Tutorial! A long time has passed since I used decals when I was a kid building toys, now I got involved in a project to put together a Space ship with two decks and a lot of decals representing the equipments in the control deck and in the living quarters deck. In a 1:48 scale and highly detailed graphics it can easily intimidate an inexperienced hobbyist. I've already got the tools necessary and now I'm learning how to apply them. Your video gave me the confidence and assurance that I can relax and slowly and patiently achieve this task, and best of all, that I will have FUN in the process. With Gratitude and Appreciation for the work you do. THANK YOU🙏
Thanks so much for your kind words! I am so glad you found the video helpful. You are absolutely right - the key is take your time and have fun. It sounds like a great project you're working on - enjoy the journey!
Thanks so very much for watching and commenting! Happy day to you friend. 😊
Put those stickers on ! ! Just discovered your channel Jon and really enjoying your content and knowledge. Thank you ! !
I'm so glad you found it helpful! Please do subscribe. And thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
Put dem stickers on
:D Thanks for watching and commenting!
You're so kind and detailed in explaining. Great video. I ordered today McLaren-Mercedes formula MP4/13 in 1/18 scale and also decals from another seller. When it all arrive I'll have to remove factory decals and put new ''West'' decals, but I don't have those liquids for removing and applying decals. I hope I'll make it.
Thanks so much for your kind words! And I'm so glad the video was helpful.
I hope that works out well for you - I've never tried that process before!
Happy day to you friend!
Hi Jon, thanks for all the info and advice. One question for you. For older decals, have you had luck with decal "fix"? Are there any other methods for restoring older decal sheets? I've tried the decal fix in the past but it really didn't help, resulting in the decal falling apart. Thanks in advance.
-John
On really old decals, it can be quite difficult to get them to work if they're really dried out. I've had some success with spraying Testors Decal spray, which is meant to be used with their decal paper. However, I've not used that in years, so I don't know if it is even around anymore.
Another thing I have done is to overbrush them with Pledge (Future). One coat, let it dry, and then another. Instead of soaking the decal in water, I set it on a damp paper towel and let the water absorb through the paper. (It takes a while.) That seems to work well.
But if they're really too far gone, it may be a lost cause.
I hope that helps! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks, I'll try the floor polish!
Thanks Jon - really will help me with 'putting those stickers on'!
Awesome! I'm so glad it was helpful. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on Jon. Another great video! I like to ask, what is best, apply the weathering on first before decaling or the other way around? Appreciate your advice. A friend, Mike
Thanks so much Mike! I am grateful for your kind words!
My preference is to put decals on before weathering, so that they get dirtied up to the same degree as the rest of the model. I do apply a clear varnish over them to seal them in and protect them against the weathering process.
I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
If the surface has a flat or satin finish, I will just place a drop of Future (or whatever its called now) where Im applying the decal and just place the wet decal into it. Ive never had a decal silver that way and it will on permanently even if the decals are old and the glue doesn't hold anymore.
Yep - that is a great technique! I do that a lot on Warhammer models. In my aircraft days, I often heard it referred to as the "Future Puddle method". :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius It works especially well on car models because the markings look painted on. Unfortunately, it doesn't work with other acrylic paints because they grab the decal too fast. The slipperiness of the future lets you slide it around until you're happy.
Thanks for the advise buddy. Still crapping myself 🤣🤣🤣 I’m building 2006 Shelby, about to put down the gold stripes. Wish me luck. Cheers mate Paul in the uk. 🇬🇧🍾🍾🍾 all the very best in 2024. 🤘🏻👍👍👍👍🍺
Have fun with it, and may you have a happy and prosperous 2024!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on..
I've been building tamiya 1/14 semi trucks for years and now delving back into my childhood hobby of building 1/24 cars so this was a great tutorial and refresher for me as I haven't used waterslides for at least 30 years 👍
Glad it was helpful - thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Best description of the process I've seen on youtube. Thank you. Put those stickers on!
Thanks so much - I am grateful! And thanks for watching and commenting!
How can i remove the decals from my Airplane F-14 for redesign without damage the paint.
I don't know of a method that would not damage paint with 100% certainty. I generally use small bits of clear tape to pull them up. However, if you've put any sealants over the decals, that may not work. In the rare case when I've had to do it, I was prepared to repaint the area. Good luck with it!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
My decals always break into pieces when i try removing it from the paper, any suggestions to prevent that?
Several things to try:
- Instead of dipping the decals in water, place them on a paper moist towel, and let the water soak up through the paper. On some decals, that is less stressful and allows them to be worked with easier
- I've used Testor's Decal Spray to help reseal them. In a pinch, an acrylic gloss varnish can help hold them together to.
- Sometimes if decals are low quality, or are too old and/or dry, there's not a lot that can be done to recover them. A few times over the years I ran into that and simply had to find alternates.
Good luck with those decals!
G'day Jon, now let's get those stickers on! Thank you, again, for another truly helpful video. I have to admit, sometimes, I suffer from 'decalphobia'. The main company that makes RAAF decals down here in Australia make super thin decals that can rip apart even if you look at them sideways ;) Very fragile. But, mostly, they are the only game in town if I want to model a real aircraft that served in the RAAF. So, I've been very nervous about placing these decals on. They are not cheap either and if I mess them up, I've got to start again and buy some more.
So, your tips and most importantly, seeing you put on a typical decal, using your method has really helped me.
I have micro sol and micro set so, I've decided to go through my old kits and find plastic components that weren't needed in the build and use them as nothing but practice pieces for decal application. Thanks again, Jon. Cheers, Bill H.
Thanks Bill! Using spare practice for plastic is definitely helpful. Work slowly with those fragile decals, and you should be OK.
Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Frustrating…am getting so tired of all TYPES of videos where one person says “Do this…” and another says “No, do THIS…”.
Same with yours… many say to use SOL to pre-treat and set and you say to use SET. Some say use scissors to cut decal, others say knife.
I realize that there are numerous ways to do the same thing, but it gets so frustrating because everybody thinks they are an expert.
I understand - it can be frustrating. I went through a lot of options myself early on. I tried various solutions, cutting methods, etc. What I demonstrated in this video is the method I arrived at over 16 years and 375+ models. Even with that, I would not claim it is right - it's just a way, and a way that has worked for me. And make no mistake about it - I would never claim to be an expert. I am experienced, but that is it. I can only show what I know to be true in my own work. If it is helpful, then I am glad. If it's not, then I'd recommend doing what I did for several years - keep testing, keep trying, keep experimenting. Eventually you will find a method that works for you. Just don't give up on it.
Thanks for watching and commenting, and I hope you can find a method that suits your work flow.
Put those stickers on! I hate decals...and the really long pin stripe ones nightmares! Lol I once built a really nice 1:350 scale USS Defiant from Star Trek DS9, with led lighting THE WORKS took nearly 2 years to complete, but it had one of those long red pin stripes that went into a circle atop and around the bridge of the model, yeah notice I said had, lol so I changed plans and gears went full combat damage to cover the mistake or missing decals and it looked awesome...but now I'm currently doing a HO scale 1:87 Scale of the Union Pacific Big Boy locomotive with some lights, it's for my Father In-law who loves trains, I have never built a train before I mainly do Sci-fi builds although I like to try different stuff I see a future tank build. It never ends does it which is fun. Back to my point lol so there are some decals for the Big Boy and I'm gunning to do my best as I can't do battle damage on this one lol. I plan to light the head lamp the fire box with a fire effect led which has a control switch and the white marker light in the back of the tender car. As well as some famous cotton steam and cotton smoke lol Started on it at the beginning of May 2021 and project to be completed by September. I'd like to enjoy it a bit before handing it over to my Father In-law for Christmas. On a funny note, my wife, when I told her it's his fav train I think I'll get a model and make him one. She says no if you buy the model you give it to him to put together, I laughed and said no dear you see I'm a modeler been doing it for years and yes I still hate decals, it's like a huge gift to have a fine example built by one of my people and given as a gift, like a wood worker who crafts a cutting board he or she don't buy the wood and then gift the person with the raw materials and say Merry Christmas it's a cutting board you have to build it....lol. Enjoy! Sorry this is a long comment but it is a funny one. Thanks for reading.
Building modal trains is very cool! Loads of weathering possibilities there that are very unique. Thanks for watching and commenting - happy day to you!
Great video Jon! Have you noticed any connection between the temperature of the water (or other factors) and the occurrence of silvering? As a side note, I've been using Mr. Mark Setter and Softer. MicroSol and Set are pretty safe but not very powerful. If you're not careful with Mark Softer, it'll melt your decals and not in a good way. I'll keep putting my stickers on!
Thanks so much! 😊
I think there is a correlation between temperature and silvering, but it's still very dependent on surface prep, and how quickly you get the decal from the water to the model. I think it is helpful in avoiding silvering, but not a huge factor. And if the other aspects aren't factored in, I don't know that it helps at all. In my own work, I think carefully and deliberately working out the bubbles after placement is the biggest single factor.
Yeah, the Mr. Mark twins are quite hot. That's why I like Solvaset. It's in the middle in my experience.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put thise stickers on!
Just found your channel a few days ago. Very informative and well put together. I'd be interested to see some comparisons of the various decal solutions out there. I see VMS make decal fixer and softener which I haven't tried yet. I live in the UK and haven't been able to get hold of the solvaset you used in this video. I use MicroSol but the results are hit and miss.
Thanks for your kind words, and for watching and commenting!
I've gotten to where I rarely to many product comparisons. I've tried so many over they ears, I'm at the point where I'm happy with what I use, and they act exactly like I want, so the pursuit of "perfect" is less enticing. I did try the VMS stuff and find it better than MicroSet/Sol, though not as hot a Solvaset. So I use VMS for the pre-treatment if needed, and then either VMS or Solvaset, depending on how thick the decals are. The thicker ones get Solvaset.
Thanks again - happy day to you!
Put those stickers on.
Good advice Jon, sorry but I find your “to face” shots distracting as your eyes constantly dart around.
I think the most important advice for decals and probably every aspect of models is Patience. Be patient, take your time. Take all the time you need and go slow. I have hemiplegia (half body paralysis) so I don’t have the luxury any more of two hands to help me steady my models. I understand the excitement of nearing the end of a process with a model, be it painting, getting all the parts of a model section glued or getting the decals applied just to finish the stage I’m at and be able to sit back and admire the work. It really is a luxury most people won’t understand until something happens to remove it from their life , like I experienced. The modelling world is full of over opinionated people demanding you do things a particular way or avoid things etc. None of that matters. YOU are the modeller, enjoy the fun of building, painting and decorating what you can in whatever way you want. It’s YOUR fun, so take note of other peoples advice and if different from what you normally do, just give it a try. Maybe you find benefit in it to become a new skill you use, or maybe it becomes a specific skill for say a small aspect. Whatever you are doing on your model though, patience will usually pay off for you.
For someone with only one hand decals are a royal pain, I’ve learnt to never ever ever (ever) go near a wet decal with my finger. I swear they reach out like an octopus tentacle and grab you to curl up .
Also don’t get hung up over using extra products. I have models I built outside sitting on the ground (over 30yrs ago back before I couldn’t) and using tap water in a saucer to soak and apply decals to brush painted as well as unpainted models. The surviving models still have those decals intact, no flaking from years of moves, never sealed in any way. Even some I broke during application are fine. I attribute the success mostly to patience. Breaking large/thin decals is going to happen but with care and patience at the time I worked slow to position the breaks so they match together. So fight the urge to just throw the decals away the moment you split one, get up and walk outside or go get a drink, let yourself calm then come back to your wet decals and calmly and slowly work out what the problem is and the first step to fix it. Its all learning and yes, at the time you think your model is ruined. Its not, it may not be award winning but very few people ever are in a position to compete anyway so it doesn’t matter. Do what you can and if you cant continue then carefully pack away your model for now, later on you may be able to buy another decal sheet (some manufacturers can supply you one if you write to them and politely ask).
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Really? What's can go wrong? A drop of water before and after...and done! Maybe??!!
Stop, its a joke! Thanks for tips and explanations!
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on. I watched to the end. I was looking on how to put decals on a 1/18 diecast car with opening doors. What do I do, cut decal on the Crack and apply the solvent? I want to do it right, I'm decaling up a 64 Ford Lightning drag car that is white and what do I do after I'm happy with the decals? Spray with a clear?
In situations like that, I usually put the decal on in one piece, straddling the gap. Apply the decal solution and let dry. Then carefully cut the decal using a new knife blade. Cut carefully and slowly. Once its cut, apply some more setting solution, and once that's dry, seal it with clear varnish and proceed with any additional steps.
I hope that helps. Thanks so much for watching and commenting! I am grateful!
Mmmm …. Stickers. About to put digital camo decals on the ghost of Kyiv MIG-29 I am building. Very helpful.
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting, and good luck with your project!
Another very useful vid. I am building a very o,d P6-E kit. How do I prepare old decals? Put on those stickers!
Thank you!
My number one way of dealing with old decals was to see if I could buy new replacements. (Seriously.) Too often old decals can't be recovered.
If that is not an option, I first overcoated them with Pledge/Future (or other clear acrylic gloss). Then, instead of dunking them in water, I cut the decal out, and set it on a wet paper towel, gently adding a brushful of water around the edges. Once it seems to move freely, gently pick it up with tweezers, being careful not to touch the decal itself. Using the moist brush, gently nudge it onto the model as close to being placed and aligned correctly as possible. This minimizes the need for further adjustment. Use a cotton bud to soak up excess water - again without touching it. Once it has had a few minutes to dry, apply decal setting solution around the edges, not touching the decal. Then leave it alone, preferably overnight. Once it is dry then, it should be able to take a second coat of setting solution if needed.
If there is any silvering, I generally used paint to cover it up.
The key is to take it very slowly, and touch the decal as little as possible. If it shatters once wet - it's generally too far gone for use.
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on! Thanks for the info. Is there a top coat that's especially good at protecting decals from handling? I'm looking to apply decals to a transformers toy so I need them to be protected from skin oils, general manhandling.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I'd suggest trying a lacquer spray varnish. However, they can be quite "hot", so you'd want to test a spot or two, and put it on in light coats. That's probably your most durable option.
With that said, continued handling will eventually wear on paint and decals in my experience.
I hope that helps!
Do you need to put a clear coat over decals when it’s the last step, or is it just for protecting them for later steps?
I'd recommend putting a cleat coat over decals before doing anything else to protect them.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put them stickers on. Float folded decals in a dish of water. Sometimes it'll umfold. Maneuver with toothpicks.
Yep, I've done that too! LOL (And "sometimes" is spot on. 🤣)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
the british or europeans pronounce it deck-al. of course they pronounce everything funny because they speak the queens english. no offence intended guys. and yes keep putting those stickers on guy.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I enjoy your videos.Thanks for the information. Where is the link to get a coffee cup?
I'm so glad you enjoy them, and thanks for the kind words. You can get the cup and other stuff here: jonbius.creator-spring.com/
Thanks for asking about that, and thanks for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend! :)
I always have to wonder many people use sharp hobby knifes to slide the decals into place. You can easily damage the decal. I use wooden toothpicks instead a hobby knife.
I've used the knife for years. It's what I'm used to. A toothpick certainly works well.
How do you prevent the waterspots from foriming, aka the residue left behind from the solvaset?
I've not had that happen actually. Any residue I've observed is left from the decal film. However, in general, a quick wipe with a barely damp cotton bud (damp with water) may do it. Certainly later clear coats, weathering, etc., should also cover it. Also, make sure you're not overdoing it with the Solvaset.
HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting. 😊
I just destroyed a vintage set of Decals. They were really old. I could not get them on without breaking
I'm sorry to hear that. Sometimes that will happen on old or over-exposed decals. If you ever run into that again, here are some tips that may help:
- Look for Testors Decal Bonder. It's a spray applied to homemade decals. Sometimes on old decals this will keep the parts together, and allow the decals to be used. When I've used this, I sprayed on a coat or two, and then applied the decals as normal. (With the caveat of...)
- Don't dip them in water. Once they are cut out, place them on a moist paper towel. Apply drops of water with a small dropper - NOT a brush so there's less stress on the decals. Let them soak for a few minutes like that.
- As an alternative to the Decal Bonder mentioned above, I've used clear gloss overcoats. Most of the time I used Pledge/Future airbrushed on, but I have tested clear lacquer coats. (Be CAREFUL with that though!)
Even with precautions, sometimes they are too far gone. I highly recommend scanning them before use, so that if you can print them out (or find someone who can) you may be able to still make use of them. And sometimes if the specific decal(s) would work, it can be used as a template for a mask.
I hope this information is helpful!
thanks for the help I just got my uh60 Blackhawk done with decals it looks SOO mush better
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
When I finish applying the decal, how can I avoid it being able to be easily scraped off? I put on a decal and a day later, it came right of off
You'd want to make sure that you used some form of setting solution, and then add a clear coat over it before handling. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Bjust finishedadding my stickers to Anakin's pod racer
Good choice!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
How long do you wait after water slide application before you apply a gloss top coat? Is 24 hours okay?
I like to give it at least an overnight dry, so 24 hours is plenty. Thanks for watching and commenting!
;When using Solvaset. The decal will wrinkle some while it is drying. Don't touch it or do anything. The wrinkles will disappear when dry. Some beginners think they have to take the wrinkles out. This is the normal process with Solvaset. It is a very aggressive decal solution. Don't worry they will settle down. I usually use Solvaset with very stubborn decals.
Thanks very helpful, I have my first set of decals sitting in front of me. Put those stickers on!
Glad it helped! Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
Just spilled my micro sol on my decals!
Help! How can I replace them? I'm 3yrs into the USS Saratoga CV-60. Taking my sweet time. Every detail.
Served on her in the 70's early 80's.
It's an Italeri No. 5520 kit. 1:720 scale.
Someone help me please. It just sucks.
Oh, that stinks. You can try testing the decals after they dry - find one that's not too critical and see if it still works. I doubt it will, but you never know.
If not, either check for aftermarket decals, or scan the decal sheet and try getting them printed.
I hope you can find a solution!
@@JonBius thanks brother, luckily I applied the messed up ones before they were ruined. But not all. They were flight deck decals so I can hide some of them with planes and helicopters. I promise you my heart sank over this mishap. I know it's just a plastic model, but dadgum it sucked for a while. I really appreciate your tutorials, I've watched more than a normal person would, lol. Thanks for the response brother.
Takes away the loneliness.
Put those stickers on! Jon, I have an intense dislike for stickers & my models, mostly cars, never see them.
They can be a pain for sure! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hello, thank you very much for you knowledge sharing. I've build just my second model and already mastered a bit brushing, air brushing, paint thinning, varnishing but still decals applying for me is madness. I'm trying to find the handy way for me how to set it. For now I'm using a brush to slid the decal from it's paper base and putting decal with the brush. You're doing it with the finger - ok, maybe I'll try that too :) But moving the decal with hobby knife ... wow... you should feel very confident with that. I'm too newbie to do that, I'm pretty sure that I'll damage it. What do you think about tamiya 74052 tweezers for decals? I wonder if it will make applying decals easier. Thank you very much once again for sharing the experience, it helps a lot!
Thank you so much for your kind words!
As with all things modeling, finding out the best way for decal application that fits your preferences and needs will ultimately come from experience and repetition. For example, the secret of using the knife blade is never use a new blade. :) (I tend to always use older blades for everything apart from cutting canopy masking.)
And if I may suggest a thought... in my own work, I've always tried to avoid thinking I've mastered a technique or process, but rather I've simply further refined it. I think you'll discover that over time and repetition of building you'll always learn new things. There may be fewer dramatic jumps in skills or understanding, but I've found that while it can be relative quick (with diligence) to reach a "95%" mark. But it is in that last 5% that I believe one discovers that it is the steepest climb - and that 100% is unattainable ultimately. There's always more to learn. Forgive me for lecturing - not my intent at all! But I thought I'd pass along my own experience in hopes it might be helpful.
With regards to the tweezers, I don't really know as I've never used those. In fact, the tweezers i use are fairly generic, cheap, and most notable for their lack of notability. :) What I have done with them is a bit of filing and bending here and there to get them to do the things I want. Good tools are almost always helpful, but the real key is the hand that holds them.
Keep pursuing it, keep building and learning and trying things. Deliberate pursuit of experience, and thoughtful evaluation of them, will be the key to growth. And ultimately it will make the hobby ever so much more fun and satisfying.
Happy day to you!
@@JonBius Thank you! Agree there is no limit for becoming better and better in any skill. I'm just starting to master each and every of it and hope I'll be slowly moving further. It's also a part of pleasure to master smth and step-by-step moving to the finish of building the model. So, for me it's two-in-one process.
Thank you once again and have a great day!
Put those stickers on! Very informative video. Thank you.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
How the hell are you touching the decals without it tearing apart? I can't do decals because it just shreds apart
For one, I try to avoid fragile decals when I can. Also, my knife blade is old, so it grips but doesn't cut. I also make sure that the surface underneath is very slick. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I've got the scale Motorsports carbon fiber decal set for the revell Corvette c5r. There's sections that have massive compound curves and molded in detail that I have to work the decals around. SMS didn't leave reference points to cut these surfaces. What's your recommendation to trim for these curves and surfaces? Let the decal dry then trim to shape and use decal solution? Or use solution first then try to remove the excess decal?
When it comes to compound curves, I would often cut the decal apart, taking into account the shape of the curve, so that each section of the decal would have less of a curve to deal with. Usually I could then line up the next piece, and the next, and so on. It did require that each decal section be fully dry before placing the next.
Getting over the molded in detail is another issue. For that, I normally would get the decal in place, focusing on the edges and alignment, but ignored the giant bubble over the detail. Once the rest of the decal dried, I could then make tiny slices around the raised detail, and hit it with setting solution.
In both cases, I had to be prepared to do paint touch ups to cover the gaps.
There have been more than a few schemes I avoided over the years knowing that the decals were simply not up to the task. In fact, I would often find that spending the time (when possible) to mask things off and then airbrush them worked better. (Like invasion stripes on an aircraft.)
And finally, sometimes I just slapped it on, hosed it down with setting solution, and then just fixed all the warts.
HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius the last sentence is EXACTLY what I done. 🤣 Worked out fine too. It wasn't easy. Thanks for the quick reply. Subbed
Hi, why is the blue background sticks on the decal when you transfer it?
That may be from letting it sit too long in the water, and the backing paper starts to come apart. Also, it can be that the decals are very old, and have dried up completely. This can also happen if the decal paper got wet or moist, and then dried out. It would activate the decals, and essentially they'd adhere to the decal sheet.
I hope that helps you troubleshoot the problem. Thanks for watching and commenting!
you got it right the first time I have no idea (decals) came from probably to ignorance
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I honestly and accidentally bought a USS Enterprise model kit that didn't come with paint or anything except the decals and the parts to assemble it. Didn't know what the heck a waterslide decal was until this video and watching it made the process loads easier, even if I never did this type of thing to begin with. Thanks for making such a good video! A bit of a question though: So since I never did this and honestly never will in the future, will this decal "stay still" or is that was the Solvaset/Gloss Coat is for?
I'm so glad the video was helpful for you! That is always a great encouragement to me. Thanks for your kind words.
Yes - the Solvaset helps with making sure the decals adhere to the model over time. Generally I also apply a clear varnish afterwards, but if it's not going to handled much, it should be OK. Depending on the age and quality of the decal, you may see them start to lift up. Adding some decal solution can help settle them back down.
Thanks again for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for the additional info, that's also a big help! I think with your help this isn't going to be a complete waste of money 👍
Awesome tutorial! What you use to clean after you put on the decals before clear?
If they need a bit of cleaning, I just wipe them down lightly with a clean paint brush and water. Just the barest bit of damp... that'll clean up residue. But most often - I don't do anything, as later weathering steps will blend things anyway.
it's so easy, it only takes 27 minutes to explain! lol jk
Exactly! 😊
Thanks for watching and commenting!
thank you for this video , it was great pleasure watching and it help me a lot
I'm glad it helped! Thank you so much for your kind words, and for watching and commenting. Happy day to you friend!
Who does custom decals ? I'm paying!
Got me... the only source I had used stopped doing them. Ask around on some model forums though - you'll get some answers!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Jon, if you have to put a decal over another decal (i.e. white background first, then a second decal with black and the other colors), how long do you wait before applying the second decal?
I've pushed the envelope and done that almost immediately afterwards (but *before* putting on any solutions), but ideally I'd say give it at least a few hours to allow for drying, settling, and any bubble corrections.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for the video Jon. It was well done and I learned some important stuff, even though I have been modelling a lot of years.
Put those stickers on ...lol excellent video =)
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked it. 😊
And thanks for watching and commenting!
I have Mr Mark Setter and Softer, is that an equivalent for what you use?
Yes, they are analogous. I would recommend testing on a scrap decal so you'll see how they behave.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for a great tutorial. I’m curious - why do you not use Micro Sol as the setting/softening solution, but instead a different brand?
Thanks so much!
I use Solvaset rather than MicroSol simply because Solvaset is stronger, and in my experience does a MUCH better job of softening up the decal. I'd tried MicroSol at first, but found some decals just didn't cooperate. Switching to Solvaset, I found it made any decal conform to the surface. Pretty much if Solvaset won't work, nothing else will.
MicroSol is good, I just think Solvaset is a fair bit better.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius thanks for the feedback - I think I understand what your’e sayinf. I recenetly did an experiment with some decals, and it didn’t work that well in all occasions.
I'm having problems with decal silvering on guitar headstocks. It's the same procedure as models. The headstock fronts are painted black and finished to high gloss black mirror like finish. I know this is needed to get the decals on smoothly. The issue is that the particular decal I am using is very thin, probably similar to model decals. Since the surface is black, any air trapping shows. The decal is obviously then coated over with clear finish and it needs to be lightly sealed first to stop the final coat melting the decal but I have that solved. Any tips to maximise sliding the decal on without any silvering effect? Do I need to resort to using that Microscale setting stuff?
I've not worked with guitar headstocks before, so I can't speak from experience directly. But here are some things that might be of help-
First, if the clear finish is not harsh (lacquers, etc.) you might try putting a dot of it underneath where the decal will be placed. This "pre-wets" the surface, much like decal prep for the models. If the clear finish you use is harsh, then perhaps a dot of clear gloss acrylic might work. That will make sure that there is liquid beneath the decal to help the adhesion. You may need to lightly brush this on to get enough coverage if the decal is larger.
Second, when you place the decal on, try to go from one end to the other. Don't just slide it onto the surface, but rather lay it down from left to right, or top to bottom - whatever fits the decals dimensions.
Third, when you get it in place, use a cotton bud to lightly work out any of the air bubbles that may appear. Work from the center out, carefully pushing them out, almost like a squeegee on a windshield. Do this slowly, carefully, and thoroughly.
Finally, if you do see any bubbles, use a sharp needle to make a small hole in the bubble, and try to flow in some of the gloss finish from step one.
Of course, I'd highly recommend trying this on a non-production piece first. While I know this method works for models, I have no idea how well it translates into wood and high gloss finishes. You may need to adjust for the realities of that.
I hope some of this information is helpful!
Thanks for watching and commenting. :D
@@JonBius Thanks for your reply. I have to try to find something to apply on the surface before sliding the decal on. This is tricky though because if I don't get that right the decal will be damaged. Guitar decals are expensive, especially if you are using logos for big manufacturers because they don't like people selling those in case they are faking guitars rather than repairing. I'm going to try vinegar because apparently these decal setting liquids are mostly vinegar based. The surface I am going onto is Rustins Plasticoat. I'm not sure if you can get that in America. It's British but an absolutely fantastic wood finish better than anything else I ever used. The downside is that it melts decals unless they are fixed with something first. Plasticoat is twin pack with a hardener so dries rock hard. I seal the decal with Rust-oleum Crystal Clear sealing spray which is the best gloss lacquer I found for this. I think this is acrylic based. It does the same as these decal solutions if you give it another light coat after placing the decal and leaving to dry but you have to be careful to avoid too much softening.
@@ryanstark2350 I figured it was quite complicated. Some testing will help you see what works. I do hope you can find a solution! I am on old ex-player... arthritis took my playing away. But I do love guitars! Happy day to you!
Put those stickers on! Great tutorials! :)
Thanks so much for watching and commenting! 😊
I’m trying to learn how to “put those stickers on”
You'll get it it - just take your time and work carefully. Have fun with it - thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on! More good, solid advice to make use of.
Thanks so much - I am grateful!
Awesome video thanks. I have made a rookie mistake and have already attached mine to my tank without any prep. I've noticed that some haven't stuck down. Is there anything I can spray on to keep them in place please?
Normally if I see adheres that are not adhering under the decal, I make very fine slices in the area where the bubble is, and then add some Solvaset or other strong setting solution. That gets under the decal and helps pull it down. Depending on the severity of the situation, it may need to be done a few times, waiting for the different repairs to dry before proceeding.
I hope that helps!
@@JonBius thanks so much. I really appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. I will give it a go. I appreciate your time.
Thanks for helping me with my Dinky!
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Really Great tips. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent video Jon! Found it super helpful and informative, thank you very much :) I have a question about whether I need to apply a top coat over my water slide decals or not??? I purchased a few blank promotional diecast model trucks and applied water slide decals to them straight out of the box and that's all that I will be doing to them - nothing more. My question is do I need to apply a top coat over the decals even though I won't be doing anything else to the model trucks? Without a clear coat will the decals last as long as the models aren't handled. The model trucks are going right up on the shelf.
Thanks so much!
I'm not sure when it comes to die cast. My concern would be the effect on the metallic finish - it might change the sheen. But it would seal them in nicely.
I'd recommend doing a spot application to a smaller decal and see what you think.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for your input - its much appreciated :) I was asking more about if decals need to have a top coat over them. Is it mandatory? Can your decals remain intact for years to come without a top coat over them?
@@StevenFreezy A lot of factors go into that. Humidity, light, handling, conditions in the air... All can impact the decals and paint.
It comes down to your estimation of the conditions. Is it required? Not at all. Is it prudent? That's the question.
Thanks!
Put those stickers on!! Thanks for the advice!
No problem! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Sticker application tip using vinegar is useful
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Need your advice again, can you Unset a decal when set after 2 days? I used Mr Mark Setter & Mr Mark Softer. I Don't want to Remove but Adjust decal. Thanks Again
After that much time you'd likely risk damaging/ruining the decal, and possibly the paint work underneath. In some cases where I've been in that position, I'd paint in "corrections" by hand. Admittedly though that only works in some situations.
Hope that helps!
Thanks~
@@JonBius it's crooked, not lined up straight. Just want to know, could I Just turn it a little. Thanks Jon. It's a 1/48 Maltese cross on Albatros d.111
@@slougo5909 Gotcha. I really doubt it would work. I mean - you could try, of course. But unless it's just not set, it might create problems. Good luck however you deal with it!
Put those _______ on!!!! Hahahahaha
Thanks for watching and commenting!
What if you are to apply a waterslide decal over a chrome part? Would that be considered a "gloss coat" type finish? Any additional steps to secure the adhesion besides micro sol/set? 🤔
I rarely build models with chrome parts. The few times I have, I tend to strip the chrome off and just paint the parts. So I've not had any experience placing decals over chrome. It is usually a very smooth surface, so it would likely be OK in that regard for decals. However, I'm not sure if the decal film would stand in stark contrast to the chrome background. I'd recommend experimenting on a spare part if one is available to see how it will look.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius Thanks for the response Jon. I did try it last night. I used the micro set setting solution, waited a few minutes, and then applied the micro sol solution. It seems to have stuck pretty good, however, the chrome part behind the clear part of the decal was not as shiny, but it will pass. That being said, I was more curious about the adhesion properties, and that seemed to work out fine...time will tell. I did the same model in a different paint color, and actually painted the "decal" on the chrome with acrylic paint, and it was much more realistic. Thanks again, for the quick response!
@@MrMajikman1 I'm glad you got a handle on it! Have fun!
What is a panel line wash? I'm the rookie in the room.
No worries - I got you covered! 😁
Take a look at this video I did - th-cam.com/video/nTjD17mcg3I/w-d-xo.html
put those stickers on..... great video
Thanks so much for your kind words, and thanks for watching and commenting!
Great advice! Put those stickers on!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
nice video, mate.
put those sticker on!
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching and commenting! 😊
Hi this was very helpful🇬🇧😊&put those stickers on lol
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks so much for watching and commenting! 🙂
You’re welcome
Put those stickers on! I'm building a WW1 Albatros D. V which involves using a lot of decals on a white gloss under coat. I like to use Tamiya paint, but I have a problem with their white gloss. I can't get it to turn glossy without building up a heavy coat. I don't like to use Pledge as it too is a heavy coat. I was thinking of spaying a Tamiya flat white and then air brushing a gloss clear coat. What do you recommend for the clear coat? Do you know anything about a Windsor Newton product.
Great video.Thanks
Thanks for your kind word, and thanks for watching and commenting!
I don't know anything about the W&N product, so I'd not be able to help there.
With white, I usually go for a more satin finish by cutting a bit of the gloss white with the flat white. Some test sprays will show if perhaps some Tamiya clear gloss can be added to the mix. If you do go with a flat white cost, gently buff it with a soft cotton cloth, and then apply a gloss coat over that. Tamiya flat white is quite textured at a microscopic level, so trying to gloss over it can be challenging.
I hope that helps. Thanks again!
My 3rd time, put them stickers on!
Thank you! :D
Will that clear shine after placement eventually dry and look normal like the rest of the plastic?
It depends on several factors, primarily how the decal was printed. A high quality decal (such as Cartograph) is usually on the glossy side - the highest quality stuff being quite glossy. This has to do with how the decal is manufactured. In my experience, decals that are very matte in their finish tend to be lower quality.
(Please note the inclusion of "usually" and "tend".)
So the finish of the decal once in place and after all solutions have dried has more to do with the decal than the process. If a decal is glossy on the sheet, it's likely to be glossy on the model.
Of course, application of a matte coat (or satin) will dull that down, as will weathering layers, post-fading/shading, etc.
HTH! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you!
Getting ready to PUT THOSE STICKERS ON for the first time on my first gunpla build, thanks for the advice :D
Have fun! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on
First timer here, thanks for the info
You're quite welcome! Thank you for watching and commenting!
Hey their! So should I polish and shine the body before I put decals on? Also should I panel line before I clear out?
If you're applying decals and panel lining, I'd recommend this order: paint, clear gloss coat, decals, spot gloss coat on decals, then panel line. Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Ahhhhh ok, your awesome man thanks so much great video!!
I just wasn’t sure because I herd some people say that panel liner after decals could lift or mess up the decals if it gets behind it. But I’m assuming that’s why you said to sot gloss after I apply them?
Exactly. The second coat seals them in.
Hi Jon. Just came across your channel and was instantly caught by your calm, collected and humorous way of presenting. Unlike so many others on YT who seem to be in a haste, overconfident, arrogant or overly instructive you have just the right balance. Even though I'm modeling for ages now, I'm aware there is so much more to learn. You make learning fun. I would suggest a part 2 with some decaling examples on the "real things" where you show all the mentioned techniques in depth. Keep going and being you!
Thanks so much for your kind words! I have other videos showing application of decals. Check the chapter links in each video. Some of the info there may be helpful also.
Here's some:
An overall decal video focused on Gunpla: th-cam.com/video/7AONuVnylEg/w-d-xo.html
A video focused on chipping decals: th-cam.com/video/Thg8Cy5A2BE/w-d-xo.html
Several others that demonstrate decals in the video, and have specific details:
th-cam.com/video/_0ZwjmVX314/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/9tRkQQSL5BU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/aGkBMvzDS8Q/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Ux1i5qGJoDM/w-d-xo.html
It's probably not a bad idea to do another dedicated decal video though - suggestion duly noted!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put those stickers on! Good job on the vid.
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching and commenting!
is it ok to clear coat first and also clear coat over the decal later?...thanks...working on an old chain saw
Yes. The initial coat prepares the surface for decals, and the second seals them in.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JonBius thanks
Another great video. Thanks for the explanation. One question. I can’t find microset near me or not so expensive with my local hobby shop. (Something between $50 bucks) 😖😖😖What other product can i use ?
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked it. And thanks for watching and commenting. 😊
Vallejo has a product called Decal Fix, and Gunze has Mr. Mark Setter. I'm sure there are others, so check around. Test them out before use to check if they have negative interaction with the paint.
An old school method is to mix some clear vinegar with water in a one-to-one mix. I've done that and it works nicely!
Hope that helps!
I like what you are doing. For me, I use distilled water for my decals. It helps keep the silvering away. But, I will try the warm water trick. For me, I have a lot of Rail equipment to do! 😉
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!