Watch THIS Before You BUY Your Next Insulated Garage Door
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2022
- If you've ever bought or are about to buy an insulated garage door you might have heard the term R-Value. R-Value is term to measure how well insulation can contain the transfer of the heat or cold. It's also a big buzz word when trying to achieve energy efficiency. But is R-Value the most important thing to keep in mind when buying a new insulated garage door? #garagedoor #rvalue #bestinsulated garage door.
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This video was excellent. We live in central texas, and last year we had over 40 days of 100+ degree days, not including the heat index. This summer is shaping up to be nearly as hot. We have cheap, flimsy builder grade doors from 2002, and our bedroom is right above it. Our bedroom is so hot all the time, I just know getting more efficient doors and better sealing will help our AC run less often.
Dallas, here. We got absolutely BEAT DOWN last year and the year before that with our electric bill trying to keep the house cool. We can do better!
Thank you for your kind words!
I too am from TX. My heart goes out to all the families that endure the crazy TX heat.
Thank you for the great info.
I have found the cheap uninsulated doors will flex when the wind flows and let a lot of cold air in.
I live in the SE US where the winters are mild and the summers are brutal. When I got new garage doors the salesperson pushed insulated doors but I decided on non-insulated doors. Why? While the garage is attached, the garage walls are not insulated, the garage windows are single pane, and the garage attic is not insulated either. The garage doors are facing true North, so the sun never shines on them. The heat in the garage during the summer comes from the sun shining on the garage roof and back wall. I figured I would be better off insulating the garage attic and planting a deciduous tree near the back of the garage so it would (eventually) shade the garage during the summer. Also, we do not spend a lot of time in the garage. p.s. The Home Depot chart you showed does seem to be a really good guide.
Great video. Thanks
I’m an experienced builder. Overhead doors are air-leakage vulnerable. Anything beyond R-9 is pointless IMO.
That's an interesting perspective. In some cases it is a matter of perception or peace of mind. For most of my customers it's what they perceive as value. And in the video the law of diminishing returns will always play a factor.
You should look into ThermoTraks rail system. It has notches on the rail to help push the garage door into the seal for when it's closed. I don't know how much this reduces leakage but i would think it's a lot better.
Most informative video about garage insulation I have seen. Thank you.
Wow, thanks! We appreciate your feedback!
You hit it on the head with this!
Any thoughts on wayne-dalton? I'm considering the 8300AG model with windows on the side, Rv12.12. Garage is not yet insulated but God willing i plan to down the road, just thinking ahead.
Are you in McKinney, TX? I noticed the hat. Do you have a website you can suggest for door shopping?
nice video....I have customers that seem to want to keep their cars warm and cozy...lol
I live in the midatlantic. Is there a best brand or model garage door company or model that is not for people that make 500k or more a year? Is a steel the best quality/strength/durability/non rust... Or do some brands and models very greatly? I need 2 smaller/normal garage doors. Opener quality? Clear winner and looser/crap? Thank you.
Great info
Thanks again Cody!
Great channel. I’m new to it and I’m from Canada, it’s cool to see how things are done where you are. I started my garage door business 2 years ago and am loving every minute of it. What’s the most common door brands you guys deal with out there? I’m curious.
Hello! I believe GARAGA, Hormann, and Haus Garage Doors. Their quality is similar but Haus has a good reputation.
We have a lot of garaga here but I’ve never heard of the other brands. Garex is also very popular and of course Wayne dalton is pretty common here as well. I will say though Wayne daltons quality does not match garaga or Garex, I’m definitely not a fan of Wayne dalton.
Okay. Another great video from SOS. Thank you. My situation: I installed the Wayne Dalton 9100. I purchased the unit from a local contractor. I wish I would have done more research but it is what it is. Not that the door is bad and actually because I went from a 16’ to a 9’ and then added a walk-in door thus I was able to correct a sagging header. However I do not like the interior of the 9100. It is a (presumably) heavy-duty cardboard. I suspect they used a water-resistant material based on the texture. I know that the R-rating is going to be on the low side and that is disappointing. The attached garage has insulated walls and I will be blowing in at least R-24 in the attic. After that I will have AC as there is a refrigerator in the garage.
Here is my question to SOS: What about adding 1” pink board in the spaces between the ridge supports? This would give some protection from moisture (a issue in Easter Washington in the winter). In fact their are some foil-back options that are very pliable and would offer a water barrier and increase the R-value slightly at a low cost.
So, what are your thoughts re: the 9100 and adding a little DIY quality to a very modest quality door?
Hello Mike! Thank you for the excellent question! Yes I believe applying a thin pink board insulation could offer a slight bump in efficiency. Yet if you apply the boards I would try to use a 3M double tape solution. The boards will add weight. Thus you want to minimize the extra weight from throwing off the balance to the door. Now the inside shape of the 9100 might be a challenge. Placing over a board might leave a gap in the middle. There is much to consider but I believe you are on the right track.
sorry, but 9100 is basically junk....should have been a sandwich door ...Doorlink 3600 series better , Haas has some killer doors , but they're $$$
Good informative video. I'm looking to upgrade my garage door in the next year or so to an insulated door. My go-to installer quoted me a 16x7 Clopay 4300 out here in Arizona for ~$1500 with an R-Value of 9.0 along with 14 gauge hinges and ball bearing rollers. My garage walls are insulated so an insulated door would pretty much complete the picture. I might add a mini-split in the near future also since I do tend to hang out in it quite a bit. It's a little pricier than the Amarr door they can sell me but less expensive then the First United Door Technologies brand they also carry. All are the same R-Value and will get the same hardware and tracks with the long horizontal angles. The FUDT door is a thicker gauge I'm noticing and the Clopay is the only one with a thermal break. Do you have any preference on any of these? I'm leaning towards the Clopay door in all honesty due to price and also the appearance of the door panels themselves on the outside. Seems like a good product to me.
Hello Alex. Thank you for the feedback! I really like the 1st United Door. They make a good quality product. In fact, I'm selling their door more often than CHI or Wayne Dalton. Unfortunately I have not had good experiences with Clopay in my area. But they do offer a good product. If you are sold on the door then I believe you will be happy. It also looks like you have a solid u on understanding of what you want your garage door space to have in order to control the energy efficiency. I hope it all works out!
Thanks! I'm not in a rush so I do have time to do more research before I buy. Appreciate your videos! They're very helpful for homeowners looking to tackle a garage remodel or door repair.
I'm having Doorlink garage doors (16X8 and 9X8) installed here in Missouri. Doorlink is manufactured in Riverside Mo and have a good reputation and warranty in this area. My doors will be insulated Carriage style doors with 10.25 R value. They are 2 inches thick with premium wide body hinges and rollers. Looking forward to the upgrade. Our current door are insulated but main door was damaged when my son tried to back out without opening the door.....unfortunately I can't just get a couple replacement panels due to age of doors. I do have living space above the garage so insulation is must in our hot summers and freezing winters.
My garage is a garage gym and I live in TX so it’s hot all the time. I need to keep the heat out! I have 3 fans and a mini split in there. I have a builder grade Wayne Dalton fiberglass door and have to run the mini split for an hour or so to cool the garage down before I can go workout. I thought I had to buy the top R value for my needs. What is your advice?
A builder grade door from Wayne Dalton will offer a low R-value. Thus if you can save for a thicker polyurethane door, then it should help control the heat for home gym.
Something you didn't mention is radiant insulation. The kind that foil is designed to help with. Do you think that is effective?
BTW The ammar website link is a 404.
Hello. Great question. I do think it's a good solution for some doors. Yet I don't think many homeowners apply them properly. I see them fall off.
Thanks for the video.
What can someone do to insulate the steel beam above the garage door if it's exposed on the inside ? I think it' called lintel ?
I am thinking that even if I purchase a new insulated door or add after market insulation to the current one, I still will have a huge radiator which is that beam.
Very good question. A 1" radiant insulation board can be applied to help with the dissipation of energy. Yet in most cases the return of investment for that type of insulation is very small.
Thanks, I ll look into it.
If it's directly applied, is there a chance this creates moisture problems ? Although there are many other airways around that area that should not allow any condensation...
And, you can have a Garage door that is R50, but if there are air leaks around the door, almost makes the garage R Value 0.
We get -50 below farenheit so it would be nice to add r value 10 an already insulated door
Hi great video! But you mentioned a heated garage door. LoL you meant or should of said heated garage!
😂
Yes I did say that. I can't fathom why that came out of my mouth but you got the gist. Thanks for feedback!
when I was shopping for my garage door at Home Depot I was looking at insulation as an element of quietness. The non insulated panels felt flimsy and loud whereas the R12 panel were more solid and thus quieter....was I wrong in this logic? Did I just up charge myself $700 for nothing? LOL
Hello! No not all. I didn't the address the benefits of an insulated door being quieter. I figure it would work better on another video. But your decision was sound. An insulated steel back aka sandwich door will offer a quieter experience than an non insulated door. Of course quiet nylon rollers and good quality hinges will also factor into the overall quietness of the door. Hope this helps!
@@sosgds i figured as much. My door was just installed a couple days ago and I didn't even think about the rollers until the contractor suggested them on the day of installation. it was a cheap upgrade so I figured WTH and after doing a little research to make sure he wasn't jerking me I was glad for the upgrade. thanks to your reviews about the Chamberlain belt drive motor (UFO look alike) i decided to go with that model. Yes I know its not lift master and its not a one piece rail but I wanted to stick to a certain budget 🤣...MAN OH MAN is everything so much smoother and quieter!
I just got a 8×7 safelite regency model 65 with windows and all hardware tracks and springs and cables for $650 anyone know if i got a good deal?
Thanks for the question. Was the $650 price with installation?