3D Printing Pro Tips: Z Stepper Auto Align with Marlin G34
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2020
- There has to be a better way to align your Z-axis motors right? Marlin Z Stepper Auto Alignment is the feature you've been looking for. I'll walk you through how to enable it and how to use it.
#Marlin #Alignment #3DPrinting
Shared Files:
Ender 5 Plus Dual Z-Axis Firmware (TMC2208):
drive.google.com/file/d/1RDGc...
Ender 5 Plus Dual Z-Axis Firmware (TMC2209):
drive.google.com/file/d/1UYa0...
Product Links:
Please note that Amazon occasionally changes their listings. Please verify the product is correct before ordering.
Bigtreetech SKR V1.4 Turbo (Board-Only): amzn.to/2VH3afW
Bigtreetech SKR V1.4 Turbo (with 4 x TMC2208): amzn.to/2Brul7B
Bigtreetech SKR V1.4 Turbo (with 5 x TMC2209): amzn.to/2D2iwox
Bigtreetech TFT35 V3.0 (text and touchscreen) for either board: amzn.to/3isVp76 OR amzn.to/30VXdNR
Buy direct from Bigtreetech: www.biqu.equipment/
For Amazon Links: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Other purchase links may also be affiliate links.
You can support my work monthly on Patreon:
/ kerseyfabrications
You can support my work via one-time PayPal donations:
www.paypal.me/kerseyfabs
Where to find me on Social Media:
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Contact: kris@kerseyfabrications.com
Credits:
Opening Music:
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Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported - CC BY-SA 3.0
Free Download / Stream: bit.ly/Happy-MBB
Music promoted by Audio Library • Happy - MBB (No Copyri... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Hi Kris, will this work with a SKR Mini E3 v2? It has to Z motor plugs but one Stepper driver for the 2 Z motors. Awesome work!
Unfortunately not. You will need separate steppers for each Z motor. Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs how you set what stepper that is going to be the second z stepper?
@@kerseyfabs Do you know how I would do that with my BigTreeTech GTR. I have a driver in E1 but when I try to move up and down only 1 side moves using E1 and both Z and Z2 connections don't do anything (I tried them separately) unless I unplug E1 and use Z and Z2 on the board. As I'm getting a Probing Error when using Z1 and Z2.
Mine just needed jumpers to disable second motor connection which is more of a splitter still cant get it to succefully probe however.
@@steveal-jassem4665 You can change that in the pins file but shouldn't need to. If its like mine it defaults to e2. But like in video you need a driver for each stepper.
Kris, thanks for posting this, and sincerely - thank you for the Marlin build. It was nice to have it 'just work'.
Glad I could help! 👍
I'd just like to thank you for your videos, they are very in depth and explain the concepts very well.
Thanks! For me, that's the fun part!
I have been asking forums for this for days. Thank ks!
thank you for putting this updated firmware out for both the TMC2208 and TMC2209.
Wow, just an amazing job. All very clear and complete.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful.
Great video. Simple, tells the story. Thanks a lot for your work!
Much appreciated! Thanks for the feedback!
AWESOME !!! Just finished done my second printer !!!! AWESOME tutorial !!!!
Congrats and thanks!
Great video as always 👍
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Great Work Sir !! more of these definitely ! Happy Extruding
Thanks! You got it!
Thanks for this video! Just got this setup on my original CR-10 with a SKR 1.3 and 2208's.
Sounds like an awesome setup!
Awsome video, thanks for your help and time!!!!! I did it in an ANET A8 PLUS #ANET A8 PLUS
And now I returned to this video after buying a SKR 2.0 (after a failed upgrade to a fysetc spider) :))
Very helpful video mate. !
Glad it helped! Thanks!
Perfect! I was just looking into this.
I'm glad the timing worked out! I hope it works for you.
Nice, I changed my printer to 3 Z steppers to take it to the next level. I would not tighten the bed adjustment springs too much, you want a bit of flexibility in case the nozzle crashes into the bed.
That sounds awesome! I mention going through normal bed leveling, which should raise the bed back up some.
Very well done this change will help a lot. One suggestion I have a HP 22" HDMI monitor even at full screen when you demo Marlin with black background it is not quit readable. I like your directness.
Thank you for the feedback. I'll see if I can switch the colors next time.
Nice, going to do this too 👍
Your videos are all great! I have almost the exact same setup and I'm very grateful that you provide the compiled files! One question I have is do you already have the bltouch offset adjusted to your hydra fan setup? Or is it setup for stock offsets? Thank you!
Thank you! I've never tried the Hydra fan. My default settings, I believe, are set for the stock fan configuration but it can easily be changed in the settings menu for a different setup.
Thanks for the video, I tried to figure this out myself and missed the "requires 3 stepper drivers" part and was really confused about the X and Y coordinate stuff in the configuration, same configuration you used pretty much works great on my i3 mk3s~ clone with pinda2 sensor SKR1.3 Marlin 2.0 etc.
Good to know! Glad it helped!
I am liking this change, after playing with it a bit, along with the Bed Visualizer plugin to octoprint I have a bed that is consistently nearly all green zone after probing. I did notice one thing about the firmware compile you did, however. The G34 probing and the mesh probing is unbalanced. The probe deploys MUCH closer to the right edge than the left edge.
Really great video!
Thanks!
Sweet printer
Do a great job, We do appreciate It
Thank you!
I received my dual z-axis kit a couple of days ago and fortunately found this video while searching for instructions, so a big thank you from a new subscriber! I say fortunately, because the instructions I was looking for dealt with keeping the gantry level when both steppers were on the same driver (short answer: manually level every time your z-axis steppers are powered down). My new mainboard w/5 stepper drivers will be here in a couple of days.
On a semi-related matter, what do you think about getting rid of the bed springs? I've had some run-to-run consistency problems (if I don't manually level the bed before *each and every* print) on my orange-spring equipped Ender 3, even with a BL-Touch and UBL.
I've seen several suggestions to replace the bed springs with solid spacers, to eliminate the bed as a variable. I asked one of the folks who suggested this how much difference it made, and was told it made a significant difference.
I'm glad the video was helpful. I don't recommend removing the screws unless you plan to add at least a 3-point bed leveling system. Otherwise, I don't know how you'll level it in one direction. That doesn't mean that people can't make it work but you end up depending on auto bed leveling more than I would. To make the spring as reliable as possible, make sure you compress them as much as possible and work from there. I usually compress all the way then raise it up 3-5 turns.
@@kerseyfabs As a proof-of-concept I cranked the springs all the way down and added a couple of thick washers to raise the bed above the z-axis physical limit. That resulted in significantly more consistent meshes, so I ordered 100 M4 washers and installed the same number on each corner, after which my bed was nearly 2mm our of alignment.
Using my calipers, I sorted them into groups with 0.05mm deviation. I found thicknesses from 0.75mm to over 1mm (all from the same lot, mind you), and that was the problem. My new main board was delayed (thanks, Amazon!) and should be here tomorrow - let the fun begin! I'll be relying on my BL-Touch and mechanical limit switches going forward (or perhaps replacing my glass bed and going back to springs?).
Ótimo vídeo. Vai me ajudar muito. Obrigado
Não há de quê! Obrigado por assistir!
Thanks !!!!
Great info. Next time do a how-to of the bed skew compensation feature. Prusa enables it in their firmware. Vanilla Marlin has that capability too, but it's disabled by default.
Nuno, thanks for the recommendation. I'd like to point you to this video by @Chris Riley from about two years ago. He did a terrific job covering this subject: th-cam.com/video/YfAb5IaHDSo/w-d-xo.html
@@kerseyfabs I saw that when he originally released it. I was thinking more in the contest of the current versions of Marlin and editors like VS Code, and hardware like 32bit boards and TMC stepper drivers, that sort of thing. Two years is an eternity in the 3D printing world.
Excellent video. I have a anycubic mega x. It has 2 leadscrew and it make auto-align but it doesn't have the bl-touch. How they do it them?
Thank you! You'll need some sort of auto leveler, whether it's a BLTouch or some other kind of sensor. It has to know where the bed it.
Hey Kersey, thank you so much for all of this, I learned a lot !
Everything is working great but I think the probe offsets on your "Dual Z-Axis Firmware" are for your fan duct (X -52, Y -20, Z -3).
I'm using the stock hotend/fan so when I auto-home, the BL touch is not at the center of my bed, I can change the probe offsets on my advanced settings menu, do you know what are the value for the stock hotend?
Here you go. Sorry for the delay.
(X -45, Y -7, Z -3)
@@kerseyfabs Awesome ! Thank you Kersey !
Had a question. I did everything correctly and have the Dual steppers going. I'm having a hard time leveling the bed manually. I screwed the four corners up as you stated, I heated everything up, did the Z axis auto align (worked great). However, I'm used to the button on the Ender Plus stock board for AUX leveling, just using a piece of paper to fine tune places on the bed. I can't seem to find a setting like that on this Marlin build. The closet thing is the leveling of the 4 corners and that doesn't help because I can get the front of the board up towards the nozzle (using the screw knobs), but the back of the board is maxed out. The ABL function is off, I feel like manually leveling is the better way to go. What do you think I'm doing incorrectly?
Edited: looks like what I’m looking for is bed mesh leveling (points on the bed, paper under nozzle, turn knob to move the Z axis to fine tune each point) and the G28 command disables the mesh bed leveling..
Hey Kersey, thanks again for your help it's working on my ENDER5 Plus, so I tried to put it on my CR10S5, the bltouch is probing on left side then on the middle of my bed, not on the right as it's supposed to (my bed size is 510x510) I didn't changed the Z_STEPPER_ALIGN_XY so it was supposed to use the bed probe limits, any idea?
Thanks bro 🤘
No problem 👍
Hi ! Great footage ! BUT ! The head is not moving simmetrical from the mid point. How to set this up ?
What means the line: Z_STEPPER_ALIGN_XY with the coordinates ? If i change the coordinates I get an error when compiling "point 1 is not reachable"... So hiw to change the coordinates to place the head to the most end of the bed on both sides ?
Well explained and informing content as always, thank you!
I have a question, have you ever experienced that when flashing firmware and loading a SD card with firmware.bin doesn't flash the motherboard, but when checking the file on the SD card it has been converted to firmware.cur ?
No problem.
I can't say that I've seen that myself. I know others have off and on problems with flashing but I don't think I've heard that one specifically.
While auto-align is a nice feature, with 2mm lead and POM-nuts you mostly will not have any disalignment anyway, so it is a bit of overkill. Also the mechanic is not made for independend positions for both z-axis. It is staticly over-determinated. It works only by using tolerances of the mechanical parts. Any system with autoalign should be constructed with a staticaly determinated system.
Much more interesting is auto-align with 3 steppers. Of course a bit of redesign of the z-mechanic is needed to move it by 3 leadscrews alowing the bed to be be adjusted )make the system staticaly determinated). But the printer would get real auto bed leveling, so no more manual bed leveling.
I had a quick question. My Z motors only had a "Z" tag on both and not a "Z1 / Z2". I imagine it matters which goes to which side otherwise how would it know which side it is adjusting? Do you know (if looking at the printer head on) which motor is 1 or 2. ie left is one and right is 2 or vice versa. Thanks for the videos and firmware by the way they have been a major help.
Watching your video I really like the colour scheme that you've gone with on your printer. Can you explain how you got a Yellow LCD?
Absolutely! The Bigtreetech LCDs have the ability to change the font and background colors. You can do it from the configuration file or from the touch screen menus. You can also make a custom icon set for the touchscreen UI if you like!
HELLO VERY USEFUL I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION FOR THOSE WHO DO NOT HAVE BLTOUCH AND IT IS POSSIBLE TO DO WITH 2 PHYSICAL ENDSTPO THANKS A LOT
Yes, you can technically do this with a physical endstop on each side but you'd have to find a way to mount both of them and there would be additional changes needed for the firmware. Check this out for more info: github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/7113
Awesome video, I hope you will still planning to have a second extruder?
It's coming very soon if everything goes to plan.
Great video I was waiting for something like this. I have tried to do it on my core xy tronxy x5sa Pro printer with skr 1.4 turbo and TMC 2209 and after updating the firmware I go to try the z axis movement in increments of 0,1mm and 1mm for safety and they do a grinding noise every time they move. I can home X and Y ok but no Z. When I home Z something very strange happens they start moving in sincro at least they appear to me but after 2, 3 seconds the right motor Z1 move down more steps than the left Z2 motor causing the bed to warp so I guess that is the cause of the noise. What may be causing this? I have connected the right motor (z1) to ZMA connection of skr 1.4 turbo and left motor (z2) to E1M. I don’t use sensor less homing so I’m using physical x and y endstops. I have tried to change up the current until 800 but no change. I don’t know what else to do. I guess that the cause of only being able to move in one direction may be because until it does an auto home and triggers the inductive sensor its always at 0. Looking at pins skr 1.4 section I can find #define E1_STEP_PIN P1_15
#define E1_DIR_PIN P1_14
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN P1_16
#ifndef E1_CS_PIN
#define E1_CS_PIN P1_01
I have tried to change the E1 for Z2 but to no avail… here you can find my marlin files so you can see all the configuration. I was using one driver (connecting the motors to ZAM and ZBM)to move the two motors until now without problems but having an extra tmc 2209 driver I wanted to try this.
mega.nz/file/DeIxBaSR#xZCH0mTVW_rQuZlErJrHpVbGzRnkrhGXpNizqBP3BUU
Greetings.
I'm one of those types of people that doesn't stop until a solution is found so finally I have found the solution... it was the wiring of the motors, silly me. Most of times the problems comes form the simplest things. Now everything works smoothly. Greetings
Terrific! I'm glad you worked through it!
@@32by97 I'm having the same problem what was wrong? It worked at firs but then it starte to sound like that
Been waiting for this vid and the possible precompiled firmware. Thanks for providing the 2209 version.
Will it matter which Z is plugged into which driver. My Z's are not labeled 1 and 2
I'm glad to be able to provide them. It does not matter which Z goes into which driver.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks, crazy that I'm a programmer who is freaked by the programming of his printer
Excellent. Thanks, now a question. When I perform a bed level the Y axis does not move. The screen information says that the Y axis is moving?
Does it move when you home the printer?
@@kerseyfabs I must of loosen the connector to Y axis when I was installing the NEW stepper on Z axis. Thanks for the prompt reply.
This is a fantastic function and I like that you brought this to the public eye. I would really like to use this on my E5+, but after multiple attempts to update with the .Bin file that you had graciously given to use, I cant load it. after a whole lot of searching forums, I have concluded that I have dropped my bootloader somehow. I have an E5+ with an SKR 1.4 Turbo and a TFT35. Sound familiar? I have purchased an Arduino UNO R3 and a ATMEL 51 AVR USB ISP ASP because that's what others have used. After reviewing the info that I had gotten my ideas from, I found that noone else was using the SKR 1.4 turbo, and it seems to be completely different. I thought I could figure it out but I've begun to realize that I'm out of my league. PLEASE HELP!!!!!
This sounds very familiar. I can't promise anything but let me see what I can get from my Bigtreetech contact.
Thank you. Anything would help.
Want a video on how to configure jerk?
Hello, great video, unfortunately I'm not able to get G34 function working, I have CR10S with V2.2 board which has extra E1 driver so it should be able to work as Z2. I set up everything in Marlin just like you showed in the video except for number of Z steppers (that line is missing in latest version of Marlin) and when I try to compile FW it shows me this error "TMC2208 or TMC2209 on Z2 requires Z2_HARDWARE_SERIAL or Z2_SERIAL_(RX|TX)_PIN."
Is there any chance that you would know what am I missing there please? Thank you for answer :)
Hi Kersey. Have you had any issues with G34 making a mess of the Z offset I have found occasionally it gets it out of wack , I had the situation again today ran G34 then auto homed, then set a print running and found the nozzle was closer by around 1mm than it was on the last print which I didn’t use G34 Any clues
I have a big doubt now. Go for this method or buy closed loop gt2 and link both leadscrew....
where did you set the distance for the probe to stay inside the bed?
Hi Kris, Thank you for the Marlin side. I am building a printer with 3 Z axis and kindly want to know that, should we make any change on the #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT line for the additional Z axis' ?
That sounds great! No, all three of your Z steppers will be assigned the same steps per unit.
hello sir. thanks alot for your help. i have afew question and please help me becuase i really need to know this.
1- We use "z step auto align" to apply equal pressure on the motors? And some motors do not carry more weight?
2- if we have quad z stepers, we have to uncomment this 5:57? define z_stepper_align_known_stepper_position
3- could you please tell me what is this: "z_stepper_align_known_stepper_position", i didn't understand it in video.
4- in marlin commented this: "requires triple stepper drivers" ......for quad stepper drivers we also have to use this "define z_stepper_align_known_stepper_position"???
Thanks alot for your help. looking forward to see your answer. thanks alot. good luck! :)
Thank you, great video as usual. Would have been nice to see it correct a crooked bed at the end tho :P
Thanks! The problem with that though was that it's very hard to see. The auto-correct doesn't work if it's over a certain angle since bad things could happen. So to show it doing it would have been anti-climatic.
Hey
I'm on the latest version of marlin and I'm not seeing the # of z stepper motors in the adv config. I'm assume it's now calculatng it based on what motors you enable? I using 2 motors and uncommented z2 in the config. My issue is that no matter how I set the settings under auto align, it always probes 3 spots on the bed: middle left, middle, and bottom center roughly. I tried the manual coordinates and only had 2 sets of coords listed, yet it STILL probed 3 locations on the bed. It doesn't make sense. I just want it to probe the left and right side of the bed like it shows in the example.
Do you know what's wrong?
with dual z motors, how would you also use dual z endstops? I don't have a probe
Hey Kris,
Will this firmware work with any TFT display or only with the TFT35?
I am looking to upgrade my Ender 5 plus with a SKR v1.4 turbo TMC2209 and a TFT70 v3.0
This firmware should work with all of the TFT displays from Bigtreetech.
hi im trying this but i have a problem i can't seem to fix... after changing in marlin, when i control manually, when going down both Z's go down. but when going up only one goes up the other goes down? whats the problem here?
how do i tell marlin which stepper is the second z axis, say i had a mainboard with more then 5 driver slots
Does it matter which of the left or right Z-stepper motors goes to which port on the board? More specifically the E3 Turbo board.
I didn't see an answer in this video, or your E3 Turbo install video.
When you print with that petsfang duct do you have to reduce fan speed? I have it and i find that when the fan kicks on to 100% on the forth layer then it just blows the filament away from the print and never stick
Sometimes yes. I usually run mine at about 80-85%.
i have tronxy x5sa pro 500 with marlin but my z offset not go below zero so how can fix that
Would this be possible to do with the OG board and the silent version? There is one slot open for an extra extruder 🤔
I don't think any of the stock boards have the 5th stepper populated on the board but on the silent boards, maybe so. Once I release my next version of firmware, I'll look into it.
After 7 months, I returned to this video because now I got a BL Touch and I have no idea how to make it work, was using a tronxy inductive probe till now. Will have to follow all your videos again just to figure it out.
Tips:
- 3 pins for data/probing.
- 2 pin for detection/endstop.
- Source: BLTouch has its own settings.
I hope that helps.
@@kerseyfabs It did help! I found in another video your source code and I used only the bl touch settings. Now the only thing left to tune is the offsets. My printer starts to probe way more to the right that I want, to say so, just about 65% of the bed gets probed (when running G34) has plenty of space to the left and also to the right.
Hey , is there is auto alignment with Lerdge K🤔
Not last time I checked. I asked about it a while back, no ETA.
Can you explain how you get the probe to go side to side but in the middle of the bed? You do not discuss this at all. Just simply that you plugged in and it worked, so did I miss a part?
Hi Kersey I am having an issue with mine. After adding the 5th 2209 and switching the wires over for the z I flashed your firmware and now I am getting a bed leveling fault. The bltouch seems to be working when the printer boots up and when I test it in tft mode of works but then I home z the bed goes down and the bltouch stows and deploys several times and the bed never goes back up and I get a error message come up and it says stop called because bl touch error restart with m999. I’ve tried enter m999 and G29 nothing happens. Any advice ?
Double check the white/black BLtouch wire. Make sure it didn't come loose.
Very interesting video. Have you seen any difference in prints?
No but I wouldn't expect to. This is a utility that helps with leveling, not anything that would carry over to printing.
Hi, Im new to 3d printing and recently made this conversion. Both motors work great, Im running into an issue when homing, the Z-axis crashes into the hotend. Do you have any recommendations on what is causing this issue? I have checked all my connections. I tried changing z in probe settings but it doesnt seem to work.
Does it double tap on the homing and then crash into the bed or crash into the bed while homing?
@@kerseyfabs Sorry for late reply, it seemed an old z-offset was cached, i followed steps i found to reset and it works now. Thank you for reaching out and your videos have helped me greatly.
Hey kris, i am wondering if i can use the z auto alignment with Arduino mega ?
It doesn't have any reliance on the processor that I know of. You just need to have separate stepper drivers for both Z motors.
How do you get visual studio to display side by side like that?
You need to checkout the code via git rather than just downloading the zip. Then you can compare your changes to what you originally pulled.
Did you have to change the pin definitions of the board to make E1 work like a Z or it already worked the way it is?
No redefining needed. Marlin does that for you.
👍👍👍 Thanks
Kris, would you recommend still using this file, or would you recommend downloading your latest builds and editing the config file the way you did? Just got a E5P and going to do all the upgrades as I first put it together (skr, tft, all metal hot end)
Also I notice you reply to every comment, that's amazing, no wonder your channel is so successful. Thanks for all the help you've provided!
My latest "Dual-Z" axis builds all have this already enabled! So grab the latest and you'll be ready to go!
I'm happy to help and respond. I can't promise I'll be bale to keep this up forever with the increased growth but I'll continue to interact all I can! The point of the channel is interacting with the community.
@@kerseyfabs hi Kris, thanks for all your hard work. I'm brand new to 3d printing and I'm slowly working through pretty much all your videos.
I have an E5+ and doing the BTT SKR E3 TURBO mod as per your video. I se you are talking about the latest Dual Z build? Where can I find it? Will it work with the E3 Turbo if I set it up for the dual z?
Hi Kersey,
i have installed everything following the tutorial and it seems to be working pretty well atm,.
Trying to adjust linear advance but need the Firmware source, any chance you can help with that ?
Thanks again !!!
All of my source is on GitHub. Here's a link to the branch you probably want: github.com/KerseyFabrications/Marlin/tree/2.0.7.2-BTT-SKR-V1.4-Turbo-Ender5Plus-DualZ
@@kerseyfabs Still learning on all this but its way easier thanks to you :)
How do you know which one is Z1 or Z2? Does it matter or is the firmware able to figure out which side it needs to adjust automatically?
From my testing, I believe it doesn't matter. If I'm wrong, I've gotten really lucky!
installed the firmware on the ep5+ it works great but now im having a problem with the usb through the screen, it starts the print heats up and then eventually freezes usually within the first layer. the screen is unresponsive. any suggestions
Nothing in the board's firmware should cause the screen to lockup. Are you running the latest firmware on the screen? Have you tried the SD slot? Does it do the same thing? Have you tried another USB stick?
bonjour super la video voila j ai une biqu b1 que j ai equiper d un double z ,elle possede la carte skr 1.4 ,pour l instant j ai brancher sur le deuxième port z donc meme steppers , j ai vais commander 5 steepers tmc 2209 , mon probleme j arrive pas a faire de modif de mon firmwar , il me met une erreur en compilant est ce possible de t envoyer mon firmware pour que tu puisse faire les modifs merci
On my new SKR 2, I have 5 * TMC2209's (drivers). The last two are listed for from 1 to 2 extruders (E0 and E1). Presumably the E1 (second extruder) driver is (for such a Z use) repurposed for use as Z2. My question is: Does Marlin automatically know/assume that E1 is being used as Z2 when the firmware changes are made? No "addressing" changes needed?
Yes. Marlin will take the second extruder as Z2 if you configure dual Zs.
@@kerseyfabs Cool, thank you!
Thanks for asking, Doug. Was wondering the same thing. And thanks to Kersey for the vid and the answered question!
Thats probably the biigest problem I have with alot of these videos not just yours you guys assume we know these things I assure you we don't I would of tried to uncomment e1
Hi Kris , im having issues with my set up which is identical to yours using your firmware. My prints freeze mid prints. Sometimes it prints and sometimes i have to cycle the printer on and off to restart, because the whole tft 35 screen freezes up with it? Any ideas . thank you
The first thing that comes to mind is trying a different SD card or using the Marlin interface to see if there's any difference. Most of the time I see this, it's from the gcode reading.
@@kerseyfabs yes I have figured out that the tft 35 is not too great at reading codes off of a usb 3.0 flash drive. I tried a 2.0 and it works fine now.
I just updated using the firmware attached on my Ender 5 Plus that has a BigTreeTech GTR board, and changed enough stuff to get it running, but I can't get the Z to home. When trying to home the Z the bed goes down about 10mm and the probe triggers a couple of times then I can't raise the bed, but I could raise the bed before I pressed home for Z (XY homing works). I checked the endstops status and it there are all open except off course for the Z which is always triggered.
It sounds like your "endstop" (white/black) is not wired correctly. Make sure it's going to the right header and that its wires go to the correct pins.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks that guided me to solve the problem, I forgot originally I changed Z_MIN_PIN to equal PH11 instead of PE0 in pins_BTT_GTR_V1_0.h
Is it possible to add an extra Z stepper motor to move my camera with the layer height to a Delta printer?
Technically yes but you'd have to write custom software to control it.
I have hard mounted my bed to the base and removed the springs, hoping that wasn't a mistake I am guessing Z alignment will be good for the X axis but the Y I hope BL Touch will align?
This technically should work using the alignment and bed leveling BUT it's not a good idea. Bed leveling is meant to compensate for bed deformation and slight variation in height. It is not meant to 'level' the bed. It will compensate for the bed being off level but that could show up as skew in your prints if it's too far off level. I still recommend manually leveling first.
@@kerseyfabs My gut was telling me its probably not the best idea, will revisit this when I get home from work
I am having issues with my bltouch on your firmwware. I am using 2209 steppers and flashed the firmware according to your file but when the screen boots up in tft mode it gives a auto bed level fail and when homing the z the bed goes down and flashes red / blue and never goes back up. The bltouch itself is working when testing it in the tft menu. Anyhelp would be appreciated. TIA
No problem. It's most likely the black and white wires. Double check those.
can you add hemera as hot end? or provide your config.h and adv?
It's on the list! I already have one that I need to install.
Can y stop by separate Z by stallguard feature? It will be nice to see stop each Z with sensitivity to prevent crush screw.
My understanding is that Stallguard doesn't work well on Z in general because of the mechanical advantage of screws. It's more difficult to detect the pressure on the motor.
I think it must be same as X. Simply if bed tilt, preasure for motor go up. So if find right value of sensitivity Z and Z2 it should stop.
Have y link for all config for this? Mine is strange behaviour. I see only 4 driver with M122. If home X also Z move its bad. I define unit/mm 4 params or 5?
Also dont know how to set stealtchop on z2
I had started just looking into this with the skr pro. My right size z lead drops every once in a while without stepper power. Looking through the skr pro pinout.h file though I see only E0, E1, and E2 pins assigned. using E1 as the next z I am wondering if I will have to mess with the pin assignments.
look up pom lead screws
I don't believe you'll need to reassign anything. From my experience, Marlin typically knows to use the next unused extruder as Z2.
@@kerseyfabs I did not have to change anything in pins.h my stepper driver socket (red side) was slightly mi aligned such that the black pins of the driver were not plugged in. Some very careful prying with a feeler gauge put them back in alignment. Whew!
@@mattmeyer6471 thanks matt. I have had the POM nuts installed with anti backlash springs for a while. I might get tighter precision z acme threads in the future though.
Hello ! I have modified with TMC2209 and G34 is great but i have a problem with Z wobble and i want PID Bed but option is not activated, can you share the firmware source ? Thx !
My source is always available on GitHub. Here's a link to the branch you're probably looking for: github.com/KerseyFabrications/Marlin/tree/2.0.7.2-BTT-SKR-V1.4-Turbo-Ender5Plus-DualZ
I am somewhat confused by a reply . I have the SKR Mini e3 V2. I have added a second Z Stepper Motor to ZBM on the board. Will the Configuration.h and Configuration_Adv.h instruction be applicable? If not can you assist with what those changes need to be? These are running 2209 Drivers on an Ender 3 Pro. Thank you in advance.
You can't do this on one of the Mini boards. They don't have independent steppers for the Z axis.
@@kerseyfabs That is disappointing. I am going to be installing a second Z stepper motor into the SKR Mini e3 V2 and I cant find any info regarding Marlin changes for it. I have seen that folks just plug it into the ZBM and go with it.... is that really all there is to do?
Yes. No firmware changes in that board. The Z motors are wired together.
@@greggcaplan1304 I got one of the SKR E3 Turbos to solve this problem. It has 5 stepper drivers and was the least expensive path from my (nearly new) Mini E3 V2.
Note that the Turbo's 5th stepper is designated for a 2nd extruder but Marlin (apparently) automatically remaps it to the 2nd z stepper if you set:
#define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2
and
#define Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGN
// if you want G34 to work!
in Configuration_adv.h. I say 'apparently' because, while the code builds without unpleasant messages from SanityCheck.h, my printer is still apart for mechanical tuning...compensating for a warped heater plate as well as a the carrier plate upon which it rides.
I got this printer to build parts and enclosures for hobby projects, so I want the best dimensional accuracy I can get. I love my Ender 3 V2, and if I can get it printing as well as it's more expensive competitors I'm willing to put in the work.
I have a strange problem, when I move the z-axis it moves both steppers at the same time but when I try to home Z only the left one moves.. what I'm doing wrong ??
To be honest, I've never heard of that one. Are you running one of my firmware or is this something custom?
Hey Kris great videos. I tried installing the above marlin bin file from sd card on skr 1.4turbo board. I get an error " read onboard sd card error. its the sd card that came with my ender 5 plus. i tried other micro sd cards and same thing. any help would appreciated.
Thanks! I've heard of some people having issues with the SD card. Try sticking a small piece of paper or card next to the SD card on the the opposite side of the pins or exchange it.
I just received my BTT Mini E3 V2. and have seen you've updated Github now with Babystep for Zprobe. where can I find the uncompiled code? as I would like to add Linear Advance
The GitHub links are to the uncompiled source. Here's a direct link to the proper branch: github.com/KerseyFabrications/Marlin/tree/2.0.6-BTT-SKR-mini-E3-2.0-Ender5Plus
Kersey Fabrications awesome thank you.
Did you use it without any sensor like BL-Touch? I want to use it with a piece of paper to calibrate. Probe_manually not work
I don't believe this will work. I haven't heard if it being used that way.
Do you have the source for this build? I’d love to use it but I think I may need to make some minor changes for my build.
Which board do you want it for?
@@kerseyfabs SKR1.4 turbo
Binary Files:
TMC2208: drive.google.com/file/d/1Zm_mFGC2pLP3z1ri4TN3DnT0tRjG5OOc/view?usp=share_link
TMC2209: drive.google.com/file/d/1bOBmRE6klmFMX_F4vP4Iuqm1oteTnURf/view?usp=share_link
Source: github.com/KerseyFabrications/Marlin/tree/2.1.1-BTT-SKR-V1.4-Turbo-Ender5Plus-DualZ
I am not sure I understand why mesh bed leveling cannot fully compensate for a tilted gantry. Wouldn't it just look like a tilted bed, compensate, and print normally?
Hi Kris, this should work on creality silent board upgrade version 2.2.1 which does have 5 stepper drivers tmc2208 and E1 is unused just needs heat sink installed. Is there a way to reassign T1 2 Z 1 or Z 2? Is the process the same as SKR 1.4 and if not would you be able to do video on it so I could accomplish g34? I'm actually doing this on cr-10s V2 which has the same board
Yes, it should work on that board. The biggest problem is that using the existing display, you won't have any control over it. You would have to do it using gcode or the USB console. I don't think I'll do a video on it. While it's a fun upgrade, it's a step backwards from a new display and a modern 32-bit board.
@@kerseyfabs thank you,the cr-10 v2 comes with regular display and not touch screen, worse come to worse i have btt display i assume it should work with cr10 type display?
Yeah. No problem with the existing CR-10 display. That will work fine.
when doing Z alignment, on the right part of the bed, the probe goes way off to the left, almost to the middle of the bed. I don't know how to set it to go a little more to the right because it has plenty of space left, on the right side it goes right to the edge.
This is in Configure_adv.h. You can set your own positions.
// Define probe X and Y positions for Z1, Z2 [, Z3 [, Z4]]
// If not defined, probe limits will be used.
// Override with 'M422 S X Y'
//#define Z_STEPPER_ALIGN_XY { { 10, 190 }, { 100, 10 }, { 190, 190 } }
@@kerseyfabs thank you very much! This makes life much easier!
@@kerseyfabs is this the same thing you're referring to at 11:06, or is that something else?
Kris, when I try an build files I get an error " update includepath", what have I done wrong. I am trying to build the 1.4 turbo file above.
Have you tried to pull down the latest official Marlin source and see if it gives you the same error?
@@kerseyfabsHi, I have the same error. I have a skr mini e3 v2 for an Ender 3 with bl touch. Help please!
Did you pull down the latest version I have? 2.0.9.3
2.1.x is coming!
great job, but if you I afford ..... all printers that have two motorized Z axes need a mechanical link between the two worm screws (type artillery X1)
In fact during the countless electric starts and stops in the use of the printer, the two motors inevitably are misaligned.
This normally happens on a stepper motor, but in the Y and X axes we have only one motor so no problem.
So if we want to be sure that the mecanic alignment of the two Z motors is maintained over time, there are two alternatives
1) link with strap as per X1
2) install two independent Z axis home point switches, if the motherboard allows it
The first solution is the simplest, you can install at the base of the screws (just above the case that contains electronics) you will lose a centimeter in the total measurement Z, but this does not matter.
I'm pretty opposed to linking the motors together. The motors should never come out of sink when printing, so the solution is to either d what you suggest in #2 or to use the G34 homing. FWIW, I've never noticed any loss of sync between my motors on the Ender 5 Plus.
@@kerseyfabs I think I explained myself badly, sorry but English is not my language, I try to explain better.
I did not say that the two Z axis motors lose step (misalign) during printing, no !
I say that over time if you check the position of the two Z axes after making a Home-point, you will see that they will no longer be aligned .
The first time I noticed this was 3 years ago on a CR10S pro, since then I have also noticed it on other printer with dual Z motors
Try to apply two discs (gognometers) in the upper part of the Z screws,
perform a Z-home point, make a reference mark on both discs, you will see that over time the two axes will no longer be perfectly aligned.
As I have already said it is normal, when a stepper motor is powered (off-on), this can move a micro stepp, the phenomenon is random, so being two independent motors, what I said happens.
I was the CEO and designer of a company that designed and built systems that used stepper motors (similar to printers) I have 15 years of experience, I can guarantee you that what I said happens, you wondered why the artillery and other brands bind the two Z axes ??
Of course if you frequently use a self-leveling system before printing, this small misalignment will be compensated for, however I did this surgery to make the community aware of a problem that few know, I apologize for the bad English, but I hope I have well explained.
PSA tightening bed springs all the way for first level doesnt always work because on my sv01 the z bottomed out before bltouch hits the bed causeing my steppers to skip
I agree and I updated this recommendation in my latest bed leveling video. Thanks!
When you use G34, is this something that needs to be done once in a while or at the start of every print in the start gcode?
I only run it once in a while. In general my printer needs releveling very rarely. So when I do finally decide to relevel: G34, Corner level, G29. Something like that.
Oh okay, thank you. Just wondering because I am doing this mod on my Ender 3 Pro and that can be finicky at times.
do you have the config.h and configadv.h files available ?
I didn't upload them. The changes are very easy and I go over them in the video. I may upload them later if there's a need.
I have a btt tft35 e3 v3.0 screen. seems to be working on the touch screen side of things but when I switch to the lcd12864 simulator it just stays black. I could compile this but my ender 5 plus is setup almost identical to yours so I figured your firmware would be plug and play. do you have any known reason the screen is only working with touch. thanks
Have you tried moving the knob? Usually you have to give it some input. Have you used the Marlin side before?
@@kerseyfabs I did but not sure the firmware flashed to the board. I will let you know. thank you again.
Hey guess what, didn't rename your firmware to firmware.bin and all is well. Feel dumb but thanks again for your work on this project