Lyle, I'm new to woodturning and enjoy all your videos. You present safe tool control and you explain everything in a succinct, accurate way. Excellent, and thank you for posting.
Lyle Jamieson hi lyle thanks for your reply. I've got a Robert soreby 3/8" bowl gouge with standard grind and would like to convert it to a swept back grind to use safely with a pull cut and sheer scraping. How far back should the wings reach to stay safe and how to get the convex shape to the wings - Ellsworth grind? .... and I'm turning an ash platter that is tearing out badly. I'm sharpening tools every six or eight cuts but it still got more grooves than a 12" vinyl record! Any tips?
Hello Lyle, I am a newbie. Been turning about a year. Mostly end grain Boxes and finials. Made all my own Carbide cutters and deep hollowing tools to go with the Robert Sorby set I acquired with my first lathe. I just picked up a much better lathe a month ago and last weekend a 1/2" Bowl Gouge just for finishing cuts. What a beast! Love this thing. Thanks for all the great instructional videos. I now use this cut daily. Ron
great demo thanks I will give this a try when next on the lathe.I turn the bowl the oposite way ie chuck on screw chuck make chucking point the dow outside of bowl turn it round then to do inside
Thanks once more Lyle. Did watch this video 8 months ago but reviewing a 2nd time was most helpful. I'm aware that the video is 6 yeras old but technique doesn't change I suspect. I'm just leaning that feet position is a criticle part of the process of tool control. Also like your term "cutting down hill" rahter than with the grain which is questionable. Heard a recent comment "Fibre support" that I like?
Thanks for writing Ray. Yes, the techniques are timeless. It is smart to go back to my DVD periodically. You are learning and will be in a different place a year from now. Take the time to fine tune and build on your experience.
A screw chuck method has limitations, my method gives you more possibilities. See the whole process in my Bowl Basics DVD. Your local club likley has it in their library
E già fantastico vedere , dobbiamo intuire ciò che spiega il maestro. Speriamo che You Tube Un giorno ci dia la traduzione simultanea di chi insegna. Allora ci sentiremmo tutti più vicini e cittadini del mondo. Grazie sig. Lyle grazie
Old guy, new turner here. I have learned so much from your videos. Sir you are a master and I thank you for your posts. Do you have anything for beginners on proper tool rest height and positioning? I know it's basic but I seem to be having a few problems figuring it out on my own, it would help to understand the whens and whys. Thank you for all you do.
Hi Allen, Good question. The tool rest needs to be in different places for a variety of work. Both height and placement are important. I would need to get into 10-15 examples, or more if I thought about it for a while. But the starting point is for the cutting action to be at the center line. Pay attention to where the cutting is happening not where the tool rest height is, and put the tool rest where needed. It is a comfort thing too. If you are hunched over, or reaching up to turn, it needs to be adjusted. I wish I had a better answer for you but that would take pages of text to describe every scenario. If you have a specific place where the tool rest is hindering you give me an email and I will try to help.
Thank you, I think I have a grasp of it now. I had my spindle center at elbow height as everyone suggests but I was leaning over so I used risers to elevate my lathe an inch and a half or so. It seems much more natural to me now and I'm getting a better angle with my tools.
Hi Oskar, It is a swept back grind with a 60 degree tip angle. The grind helps with the versatility but the most important thing when sheer scraping is the internal flute configuration. My flute is a parabolic shape that is splayed out wider and is deeper than any other. Other flutes that have "U" shape will not work well for sheer scraping. You can see and purchase my bowl gouge, made for me by Doug Thompson, on my web site store.
Sorry Lgster. Sheer refers to the steep angle like a sheer cliff. It is scraping not shearing the fibers. No scissors type cutting action. Ill have to disagree with you.
That process gives up your control of the grain, color, and character of the wood. And the inside and outside axis will usually not run true. To fix you must go back and do the outside again after reversing. Waste of time and energy. Your method ties one hand behind your back. The downside of my method is you have to learn how to use the tools correctly especially the pull cut from the bottom to the edge while the headstock is in the way. See my Bowl DSVD for details.
glad to see your sites. The clearest tutorial sites I have ever seen about wood turning. Been there, done that. 88 yrs old and kicking. John
+John Riley Thanks for the feedback John. Still kicking and still learning. Lets keep on doing it for a long time yet.
Lyle, I'm new to woodturning and enjoy all your videos. You present safe tool control and you explain everything in a succinct, accurate way. Excellent, and thank you for posting.
Hi Scott, nice to hear from you, thanks for the feedback. If you need anything let me know, glad to help out.
Lyle Jamieson hi lyle thanks for your reply. I've got a Robert soreby 3/8" bowl gouge with standard grind and would like to convert it to a swept back grind to use safely with a pull cut and sheer scraping. How far back should the wings reach to stay safe and how to get the convex shape to the wings - Ellsworth grind? .... and I'm turning an ash platter that is tearing out badly. I'm sharpening tools every six or eight cuts but it still got more grooves than a 12" vinyl record! Any tips?
Hi Scott,
Sorry for the tardy reply, I have been traveling. Please call me to help with your bowl gouge grind. 231-947-2348 or email me.
Hello Lyle, I am a newbie. Been turning about a year. Mostly end grain Boxes and finials. Made all my own Carbide cutters and deep hollowing tools to go with the Robert Sorby set I acquired with my first lathe. I just picked up a much better lathe a month ago and last weekend a 1/2" Bowl Gouge just for finishing cuts. What a beast! Love this thing. Thanks for all the great instructional videos.
I now use this cut daily. Ron
I managed this technique without a catch the other day thanks to this and some other videos. Tool rest position is critical, thanks Kyle.
Thanks for the feedback Jim, glad it helped.
Your an excellent teacher; this was very clear.
Thank you.
Thanks so much Lyle for the excellent presentation
Thanks Ray, nice to hear from you.
A beautifully clear explanation of the techniques. Many thanks
Thanks Anthony, enjoy
great demo thanks I will give this a try when next on the lathe.I turn the bowl the oposite way ie chuck on screw chuck make chucking point the dow outside of bowl turn it round then to do inside
Mark Sanger shower me how to do it and I do it all the time.
Yes it does work I have been showing my students for years
Thanks once more Lyle. Did watch this video 8 months ago but reviewing a 2nd time was most helpful. I'm aware that the video is 6 yeras old but technique doesn't change I suspect. I'm just leaning that feet position is a criticle part of the process of tool control. Also like your term "cutting down hill" rahter than with the grain which is questionable. Heard a recent comment "Fibre support" that I like?
Thanks for writing Ray. Yes, the techniques are timeless. It is smart to go back to my DVD periodically. You are learning and will be in a different place a year from now. Take the time to fine tune and build on your experience.
A screw chuck method has limitations, my method gives you more possibilities. See the whole process in my Bowl Basics DVD. Your local club likley has it in their library
E già fantastico vedere , dobbiamo intuire ciò che spiega il maestro. Speriamo che You Tube Un giorno ci dia la traduzione simultanea di chi insegna. Allora ci sentiremmo tutti più vicini e cittadini del mondo. Grazie sig. Lyle grazie
Thank you for writing. GRAZIE
Old guy, new turner here. I have learned so much from your videos. Sir you are a master and I thank you for your posts. Do you have anything for beginners on proper tool rest height and positioning? I know it's basic but I seem to be having a few problems figuring it out on my own, it would help to understand the whens and whys. Thank you for all you do.
Hi Allen, Good question. The tool rest needs to be in different places for a variety of work. Both height and placement are important. I would need to get into 10-15 examples, or more if I thought about it for a while. But the starting point is for the cutting action to be at the center line. Pay attention to where the cutting is happening not where the tool rest height is, and put the tool rest where needed. It is a comfort thing too. If you are hunched over, or reaching up to turn, it needs to be adjusted. I wish I had a better answer for you but that would take pages of text to describe every scenario. If you have a specific place where the tool rest is hindering you give me an email and I will try to help.
Thank you, I think I have a grasp of it now. I had my spindle center at elbow height as everyone suggests but I was leaning over so I used risers to elevate my lathe an inch and a half or so. It seems much more natural to me now and I'm getting a better angle with my tools.
is there a name for the kind of bevel grind that he uses?
Hi Oskar, It is a swept back grind with a 60 degree tip angle. The grind helps with the versatility but the most important thing when sheer scraping is the internal flute configuration. My flute is a parabolic shape that is splayed out wider and is deeper than any other. Other flutes that have "U" shape will not work well for sheer scraping. You can see and purchase my bowl gouge, made for me by Doug Thompson, on my web site store.
I think I only received a partial comment, I don't know what you mean here
please read" then do outside of bowl" .
The correct term is "shear" cut, because you are shearing the fibers.
Sorry Lgster. Sheer refers to the steep angle like a sheer cliff. It is scraping not shearing the fibers. No scissors type cutting action. Ill have to disagree with you.
sorry relates to a comment i posted saying i work the other way the foot of the bowl facing tailstock ( third comment down)
That process gives up your control of the grain, color, and character of the wood. And the inside and outside axis will usually not run true. To fix you must go back and do the outside again after reversing. Waste of time and energy. Your method ties one hand behind your back. The downside of my method is you have to learn how to use the tools correctly especially the pull cut from the bottom to the edge while the headstock is in the way. See my Bowl DSVD for details.