hoppend 0 seconds ago I choose not to, because the parts are easier to sand this way, it would have been very hard to get rid of the 3D printer’s buildlines
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I wonder though (because I don’t know) why is it necessary to create a silicone mould instead of 3D printing a mold directly?
I did this for one reason, being able to more easily sand the mold. You could definitely directly use the 3D print as a mold. However With the 3D printing process, you end up with ‘build lines’ that I wanted to get rid of. This can be done with applying filler and sanding. This would be harder to do with the negative mold because it would have small cavities caused by the intricacies of the part. Hope that answers your question! Enjoy my other video’s 😁
@@donr62 part is holding up great, the mold too. However this particular application does not stress the part mechanically. I do want to test that with an other part that needs replicating. This part just plugs a hole. Also with the geometry of the part. This mold is very sensitive for trapped air. Next time i would tilt/orient it differently to allow air to escape more easily.
Fred Dibnah was one of a kind. His language not offensive, just basic. He said things as he saw them in my opinion. A really great guy and very courageous. Would you climb the chimneys he climbed. I know I wouldn’t, lol. In addition, I enjoyed your video although I will try to adapt it to suit moulding 1:76 scale flexible tank tracks.
@@kevinhale9400 ohh noo, I would not climb those!! that looks very dangerous! But he also had a very cool series about the Victorian age! Would you say my language was offensive? I might be able to mute that word. Good luck with your tank threads!
Not really David. The part seems to hold shape. I think other materials could shrink though, so it’s a good question. In this case, some shrinkage would not matter that much
These rubbers do not see any mechanical load, no sunshine, and no chemicals. They should last for a very long time. I have had mine there for a year now. I report back if it goes wrong :D
@0.48, i like that 'kinda knackered, you Dutch really make me laugh & (a big AND) are so friendly
That was very interesting indeed to watch. Well done
Thanks Mark!
Well done Huib
How did you get the two halves of the mould to separate at 2:20? Was that by cutting with the scalpel?
Yes, i cut it open with the scalpel 😀
Thanks
I have Alfa Romeo 166 and even this car has some parts that are NLA or rare as. I bought a ender 3 s1 and am going to see what I can do.
Good job🙏🏼❤🕊✨👍
Why not 3d printing the mold directly?
hoppend
0 seconds ago
I choose not to, because the parts are easier to sand this way, it would have been very hard to get rid of the 3D printer’s buildlines
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I wonder though (because I don’t know) why is it necessary to create a silicone mould instead of 3D printing a mold directly?
I did this for one reason, being able to more easily sand the mold. You could definitely directly use the 3D print as a mold. However With the 3D printing process, you end up with ‘build lines’ that I wanted to get rid of. This can be done with applying filler and sanding. This would be harder to do with the negative mold because it would have small cavities caused by the intricacies of the part. Hope that answers your question! Enjoy my other video’s 😁
@@hoppend yes, thank you. How is the part holding up?
@@donr62 part is holding up great, the mold too. However this particular application does not stress the part mechanically. I do want to test that with an other part that needs replicating. This part just plugs a hole.
Also with the geometry of the part. This mold is very sensitive for trapped air. Next time i would tilt/orient it differently to allow air to escape more easily.
Just curious, is this a shared part? (Austin healey sprite? My car has very similar plugs all over and they are available new)
To my knowledge, this part is specific to the A30-A35
Kinda knackered indeed, lol. That is an expression we don’t hear much these days.
I guess I am influenced by the TH-cam video's I watch. I have been watching a lot of Fred Dibnah lately :D
Fred Dibnah was one of a kind. His language not offensive, just basic. He said things as he saw them in my opinion. A really great guy and very courageous. Would you climb the chimneys he climbed. I know I wouldn’t, lol. In addition, I enjoyed your video although I will try to adapt it to suit moulding 1:76 scale flexible tank tracks.
@@kevinhale9400 ohh noo, I would not climb those!! that looks very dangerous! But he also had a very cool series about the Victorian age! Would you say my language was offensive? I might be able to mute that word.
Good luck with your tank threads!
Cool video Huib, do you get any shrinkage with the silicone?
Not really David. The part seems to hold shape. I think other materials could shrink though, so it’s a good question. In this case, some shrinkage would not matter that much
Nicely done there!
Thanks for posting the video.
Really nice to see the outcome :)
By the way how does it wear in terms of durability.
These rubbers do not see any mechanical load, no sunshine, and no chemicals. They should last for a very long time. I have had mine there for a year now. I report back if it goes wrong :D
Nice work, what 3D printer did you use for the printed mold?
Prusa i3 mk3
Thanks the response bro, but what about the CAD package? Did you have to use a 3d scanner to get the digital data for the printed mold?@@hoppend
Why do you need the silicon mold? why not just 3d print the mold directly by inverting the 3d model?
This allows me to sand the initial model more easily. A 3D print produces lines, and it is necessary to sand if you want to get rid of those.